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These details were last updated on 17/Nov/2005

Legaston Quarry


Climbs 74 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude ? – Faces E

Crag features
The original home of Scottish sport climbing. Most routes in the F6a - F6c range, and are mostly 10 - 15m long. The climbing tends to be fingery and reachy, progress being dependent on horizontal breaks in the sandstone, along with the odd pocket.

"Must do" routes: Driller Killer (F6c), Flight of the Mad Magician (F6b), No Remorse (F6c+), Spandex Ballet (F7a+), Playing with Fire (F6c).

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 

0.0mm rain
8 °C
40 kph

0.0mm rain
6 °C
20 kph

0.0mm rain
8 °C
17 kph

0.5mm rain
Mainly cloudy
11 °C
31 kph

4.7mm rain
10 °C
20 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Cairngorms & MonadhliathMet Office: East Highlands

7aMax Scottish Sport - A Selected Guide (2012), North East Outcrops (2003),
Out of print: North East Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1ChossD 9
2GrotD 2
3Ego TripD 39
4FlightpathVS 4c 19
5Crowbar CrackS 47
6The Killing Fields6a 57
7Armygeddon5+ *143
8Driller Killer6c *78
9Trial by Dimension7a 7
10Flight of the Mad Magician6b **133
11Seconds Out6a 76
12Seconds Out (trad)E1 5b 4
13PlodM 18
14ContraflowVS 4b 2
15Ratbag6a *57
16Hunt the Ratbag6b *43
17Death is the Hunter6b+ *49
18Sweet Revenge6a+ **77
19Sweet Revenge (trad)E1 5b **6
20Junk Man Blues6a+ 41
21Between the Lines5+ 88
22Bomber6a+ 72
23Happy DaysS 8
24Brian the Snail6a 21
25Brian the Snail Direct7b 5
26The Rocking Stone4 21
27The Rocking Stone (trad)S 11
28The HeadS 3
29March of Dimes6a 38
30Shoot to Kill5+ *42
31Overkill6b *21
32Desperate Measures6b 14
33Staircase AD 1
34Fire at Will4+ 11
35Staircase BD 2
36Walking the Straight Line4+ 11
37Ain't no Rolling Stone4+ 10
 Climb nameGradex
38The Rack4+ 5
39Lemon Squeezy4+ 2
40The Golden Shot6b+ *4
41Charred and Damned Desire7b *1
42The Hunting Swan6b+  
43First to Fall6b+ *9
44Hell's Bells6c *3
45Fire Down Below6a+ 14
46Demolition Man5+ 13
47The Big J6b 4
48Rockets Secret Machine7a+ * 
49Everything Must Go6a 5
50Edge of Darkness6a *3
51Purple HazeVS 4b 8
52Night-time SorrowsVS 4c *7
53Virgin CrackVD 12
54Kiss of DeathVS 4b 2
55Direct Access6c *6
56No Remorse6c+ ***26
57Spandex Ballet7a+ ***8
58Sign of the ScorpionE1 5b *1
59She Conceives Destruction7a  
62Roxanne4 *1
64Nymphocyte6b+ * 
65Playing with Fire6c **1
66Les morts Dansant7a *3
67Necrosis6a *12
69Exodus5 2
70The Weasel6a+ *5
71Remain in Light6b+  
72CapricaVS 4b 1
73WinkyVS 4c 1
74Gary's RouteS  
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Access notes
Lies just off the A933 Brechin to Arbroath road, just south of Friockheim.

Limited parking beside the quarry.

No dogs allowed. New access law means dogs cannot be excluded unless a local byelaw is in place. They must of course be kept under control.

Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Stuart S

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
been up climbing here quite a lot in last few weeks most routes dry, pulled a massive block off the rocking stone f4 at the start just missed me would stay away from this route still big lose rock needing a good clean up
allymac85 - 13/Apr/11

Flight of the Magic Magician - barry wee climb with a crafty move required.
220bpm - 15/Nov/05

fuckin amasin
george smith - 04/Nov/04