Legaston Quarry

Climbs 74 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude ? – Faces E

Crag features
The original home of Scottish sport climbing. Most routes in the F6a - F6c range, and are mostly 10 - 15m long. The climbing tends to be fingery and reachy, progress being dependent on horizontal breaks in the sandstone, along with the odd pocket.

"Must do" routes: Driller Killer (F6c), Flight of the Mad Magician (F6b), No Remorse (F6c+), Spandex Ballet (F7a+), Playing with Fire (F6c).

Access notes
Lies just off the A933 Brechin to Arbroath road, just south of Friockheim.

Limited parking beside the quarry.

No dogs allowed. New access law means dogs cannot be excluded unless a local byelaw is in place. They must of course be kept under control.

Guidebooks
7aMax Scottish Sport - A Selected Guide (2012), North East Outcrops (2003),
Out of print: North East Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 RING BUTTRESS / SUNSHINE WALL 
2ChossD
3GrotD
4Ego TripD
5FlightpathVS 4c
6Crowbar CrackS
7The Killing Fields6a
8Armygeddon5c *
9Driller Killer6c *
10Trial by Dimension7a
11Flight of the Mad Magician6b **
12Seconds Out6a
13Seconds Out (trad)E1 5b
14PlodM
15ContraflowVS 4b
 MAIN WALL LEFT 
17Ratbag6a *
18Hunt the Ratbag6b *
19Death is the Hunter6b+ *
20Sweet Revenge6a+ **
21Sweet Revenge (trad)E1 5b **
22Junk Man Blues6a+
23Between the Lines5c
24Bomber6a+
25Happy DaysS
26Brian the Snail6a
27Brian the Snail Direct7b
28The Rocking Stone4a
29The Rocking Stone (trad)S
30The HeadS
 MAIN WALL RIGHT 
32March of Dimes6a
33Shoot to Kill5c *
34Overkill6b *
35Desperate Measures6b
36Staircase AD
37Fire at Will4c
38Staircase BD
39Walking the Straight Line4c
40Ain't no Rolling Stone4c
41The Rack4c
42Lemon Squeezy4c
 ROTTEN WALL 
44The Golden Shot6b+ *
45Charred and Damned Desire7b *
46The Hunting Swan6b+
47First to Fall6b+ *
48Hell's Bells6c *
49Fire Down Below6a+
50Demolition Man5c
51The Big J6b
52Rockets Secret Machine7a+ *
53Everything Must Go6a
54Edge of Darkness6a *
 FORBIDDEN BUTTRESS 
56Purple HazeVS 4b
57Night-time SorrowsVS 4c *
58Virgin CrackVD
59Kiss of DeathVS 4b
60Direct Access6c *
61No Remorse6c+ ***
62Spandex Ballet7a+ ***
 BABYLON BUTTRESS (WET WALL) 
64Sign of the ScorpionE1 5b *
65She Conceives Destruction7a
66Aerodynamic7b
67Lymphomaniac6a
68Roxanne4a *
69Diss!6b
70Nymphocyte6b+ *
71Playing with Fire6c **
72Les morts Dansant7a *
73Necrosis6a *
 ROSE WALL 
75RootworksS
76Exodus5a
77The Weasel6a+ *
78Remain in Light6b+
79CapricaVS 4b
80WinkyVS 4c
81Gary's RouteS
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
been up climbing here quite a lot in last few weeks most routes dry, pulled a massive block off the rocking stone f4 at the start just missed me would stay away from this route still big lose rock needing a good clean up
allymac85 - 13/Apr/11
Flight of the Magic Magician - barry wee climb with a crafty move required.
220bpm - 15/Nov/05
fuckin amasin
george smith - 04/Nov/04