Legaston Quarry

Climbs 74 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude ? – Faces E

Crag features
The original home of Scottish sport climbing. Most routes in the F6a - F6c range, and are mostly 10 - 15m long. The climbing tends to be fingery and reachy, progress being dependent on horizontal breaks in the sandstone, along with the odd pocket.

"Must do" routes: Driller Killer (F6c), Flight of the Mad Magician (F6b), No Remorse (F6c+), Spandex Ballet (F7a+), Playing with Fire (F6c).

Access notes
Lies just off the A933 Brechin to Arbroath road, just south of Friockheim.

Limited parking beside the quarry.

No dogs allowed. New access law means dogs cannot be excluded unless a local byelaw is in place. They must of course be kept under control.

Guidebooks
7aMax Scottish Sport - A Selected Guide (2012), North East Outcrops (2003),
Out of print: North East Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 RING BUTTRESS / SUNSHINE WALL  
2ChossD 10
3GrotD 2
4Ego TripD 43
5FlightpathVS 4c 21
6Crowbar CrackS 51
7The Killing Fields6a 62
8Armygeddon5c *163
9Driller Killer6c *83
10Trial by Dimension7a 7
11Flight of the Mad Magician6b **144
12Seconds Out6a 88
13Seconds Out (trad)E1 5b 5
14PlodM 20
15ContraflowVS 4b 2
 MAIN WALL LEFT  
17Ratbag6a *68
18Hunt the Ratbag6b *47
19Death is the Hunter6b+ *51
20Sweet Revenge6a+ **85
21Sweet Revenge (trad)E1 5b **7
22Junk Man Blues6a+ 45
23Between the Lines5c 102
24Bomber6a+ 83
25Happy DaysS 10
26Brian the Snail6a 26
27Brian the Snail Direct7b 5
28The Rocking Stone4a 24
29The Rocking Stone (trad)S 11
30The HeadS 3
 MAIN WALL RIGHT  
32March of Dimes6a 43
33Shoot to Kill5c *52
34Overkill6b *23
35Desperate Measures6b 16
36Staircase AD 1
37Fire at Will4c 14
38Staircase BD 2
39Walking the Straight Line4c 13
40Ain't no Rolling Stone4c 12
41The Rack4c 5
42Lemon Squeezy4c 2
 ROTTEN WALL  
44The Golden Shot6b+ *4
45Charred and Damned Desire7b *1
46The Hunting Swan6b+  
47First to Fall6b+ *9
48Hell's Bells6c *3
49Fire Down Below6a+ 14
50Demolition Man5c 14
51The Big J6b 4
52Rockets Secret Machine7a+ * 
53Everything Must Go6a 7
54Edge of Darkness6a *4
 FORBIDDEN BUTTRESS  
56Purple HazeVS 4b 9
57Night-time SorrowsVS 4c *8
58Virgin CrackVD 12
59Kiss of DeathVS 4b 2
60Direct Access6c *6
61No Remorse6c+ ***29
62Spandex Ballet7a+ ***11
 BABYLON BUTTRESS (WET WALL)  
64Sign of the ScorpionE1 5b *1
65She Conceives Destruction7a  
66Aerodynamic7b  
67Lymphomaniac6a  
68Roxanne4a *1
69Diss!6b  
70Nymphocyte6b+ * 
71Playing with Fire6c **1
72Les morts Dansant7a *4
73Necrosis6a *14
 ROSE WALL  
75RootworksS  
76Exodus5a 2
77The Weasel6a+ *5
78Remain in Light6b+  
79CapricaVS 4b 1
80WinkyVS 4c 1
81Gary's RouteS  
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Hamfunk

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
been up climbing here quite a lot in last few weeks most routes dry, pulled a massive block off the rocking stone f4 at the start just missed me would stay away from this route still big lose rock needing a good clean up
allymac85 - 13/Apr/11
Flight of the Magic Magician - barry wee climb with a crafty move required.
220bpm - 15/Nov/05
fuckin amasin
george smith - 04/Nov/04