Climbs 74
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)

Faces E

Sweet Revenge © Jonny Tee 69

Crag features

The original home of Scottish sport climbing. Most routes in the F6a - F6c range, and are mostly 10 - 15m long. The climbing tends to be fingery and reachy, progress being dependent on horizontal breaks in the sandstone, along with the odd pocket.

"Must do" routes: Driller Killer (F6c), Flight of the Mad Magician (F6b), No Remorse (F6c+), Spandex Ballet (F7a+), Playing with Fire (F6c).

Approach notes

Lies just off the A933 Brechin to Arbroath road, just south of Friockheim.

Limited parking beside the quarry.

No dogs allowed. New access law means dogs cannot be excluded unless a local byelaw is in place. They must of course be kept under control.

been up climbing here quite a lot in last few weeks most routes dry, pulled a massive block off the rocking stone f4 at the start just missed me would stay away from this route still big lose rock needing a good clean up
allymac85 - 13/Apr/11
Flight of the Magic Magician - barry wee climb with a crafty move required.
220bpm - 15/Nov/05
fuckin amasin
george smith - 04/Nov/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Ring Buttress / Sunshine Wall 
2ChossD 11
3GrotD 4
4Ego Trip
-
D 44
5FlightpathVS 4c 22
6Crowbar CrackS 54
7The Killing Fields6a 73
8Armygeddon5c *189
9Driller Killer
-
6c *95
10Trial by Dimension7a 9
11Flight of the Mad Magician6b **173
12Seconds Out
-
6a 108
13Seconds Out (trad)E1 5b 6
14Plod
-
M 22
15Contraflow
-
VS 4b 3
 Main Wall Left 
17Ratbag6a *83
18Hunt the Ratbag
-
6b *55
19Death is the Hunter
-
6b+ *62
20Sweet Revenge
-
6a+ **106
21Sweet Revenge (trad)
-
E1 5b **8
22Junk Man Blues
-
6a+ 53
23Between the Lines5c 123
24Bomber
-
6a+ 95
25Happy Days
-
S 11
26Brian the Snail
-
6a 34
27Brian the Snail Direct
-
7b 8
 Forbidden Buttress 
56Purple Haze
-
VS 4b 11
57Night-time Sorrows
-
VS 4c *10
58Virgin CrackVD 14
59Kiss of Death
-
VS 4b 4
60Direct Access
-
6c *12
61No Remorse
-
6c+ ***44
62Spandex Ballet
-
7a+ ***21
 Babylon Buttress (Wet Wall) 
64Sign of the Scorpion
-
E1 5b *1
65She Conceives Destruction
-
7a 1
66Aerodynamic
-
7b 1
67Lymphomaniac
-
6a 1
68Roxanne
-
4a *3
69Diss!
-
6b 1
70Nymphocyte
-
6b+ *1
71Playing with Fire
-
6c **2
72Les morts Dansant
-
7a *6
73Necrosis
-
6a *17
 Rose Wall 
75Rootworks
-
S  
76Exodus
-
5a 2
77The Weasel
-
6a+ *6
78Remain in Light
-
6b+ 1
79Caprica
-
VS 4b 1
80Winky
-
VS 4c 1
81Gary's Route
-
S  

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