Climbs 136
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces SW

Andy shunting, myself jumping! © Jago Miller Productions

Crag features

A good sandstone crag in an idyllic location by the river.

Classic's include King Fisher (VD) Glenwille Grooves (HS), Flasherman (VS), Erection (HVS), Barnacle Bill (E1), Paper Moon (E3), Exorcist (E4) and Free and Easy (E5). Some harder routes are quite bold, and the less frequented routes might need a gentle brush before leading (a towel works best).

TAKE NOTE

Protection on the majority of hard routes is often absent or illusory and many of the first ascents, especially of the hardest climbs, involved abseil inspection and top rope practice prior to the lead. This should be born in mind by anyone considering an "on-sight" lead.

Please be kind to the rock when leading, its probably best not to test that sound looking nut behind that flake in a fall!

There is also plentiful steep bouldering by the river and elsewhere. The problems listed here are taken from the Eden Valley FRCC Guide (Sandy Bay). Further problems (Split Boulder) can be found on Lakesbloc.com

Many of the N.L. routes are slowly being whittled down so you may need to cross reference with the FRCC Eden Valley Guide to see what ones are left for you to do!

Approach notes

Idyllic riverside spot.

All bouldering problems on "sandy bay" are now from the FRCC guide to the Eden Valley. Most problems are eliminate and the new guide shows whats what more clearly, rather than the lakesbloc guide.
petegunn - 15/Apr/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Faces Buttress 
2F.B.S.J
-
VD 4
3Blank's Expression
-
VS 5a 2
4Boomerang
-
VS 4b *12
5Aborigine
-
HVS 4c *3
6Cook's Left Hand
-
VS 4b *3
7Cook's Crack
-
VS 4b *4
8Cook's Apron
-
VS 4c *2
9Cook's TourHVS 5a/b **5
10Blockbuster
-
HS 4a 4
11Tree AnticsMVS 2
12A Big Hand
-
S 13
 Sandy Bay 
14KingfisherVD **161
15Kaleidoscope Eyes
-
E2 5b *1
16Grey Duster
-
E3 6a **4
17The Arete
-
E3 6c **3
18Time and Motion Man
-
E1 5b **69
19The OrbitE4 6a ***2
20Blue Lugs
-
E5 5c *4
21The ExorcistE4 5c ***57
22Blast Off
-
E4 6a *5
23Glenwille Grooves Direct
-
MVS *46
24Glenwillie Grooves
-
HS 4b **260
 Sandy Bay bouldering 
26Problem 1 (Green Dots) LakesBloc Problem 10
-
V3 ***29
27Problem 2 (Red Dots)
-
V4 **34
28Problem 3 (Yellow Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 9V7 **25
29Problem 4 (Blue Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 7V6 ***28
30Problem 5 (Pink Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 5V6 **14
31Problem 6 (Black Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 6
-
V5 **41
32Problem 7 (White Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 2V2 47
33Problem 8 (Blue Line) Lakesbloc Problem 1V3 **20
34Problem 9 (Red Line)V3 **19
35Problem 10 (Pump Loop, Yellow Line)V3 **25
 Harry's Groove Area 
37Harry's Arete
-
E1 5b 5
38Harry's Groove
-
HS 4b 11
39Smiling Faces
-
VS 4b 8
4039 Steps
-
VD *44
 Stinkhorn Buttress 
42Ducking Drop
-
E1 5a *2
43Herbie
-
VS 4c 2
44Meat is Murder
-
E2 5b **3
45Stinkhorn AreteE2 5b **2
46Astral WallE3 6a *4
47Stinkhorn
-
S 3
 Hetherington's Bay 
49Petit Mal
-
VD 7
50Nosescratcher
-
HS 8
51Indian's Revenge
-
E5 6a *4
52Joe Soap's Corner
-
VS 4b 16
53Cally Crack
-
E2 5b/c *28
54Jeff's Wall
-
V4 *5
 Central Buttress 
56Princess Anne's New Ring
-
S 44
57Hooked UpE3 5c 4
58The Monkeyhanger
-
HVS 4c **47
59The SchnuckVS 4c *4
60Bullgine Run
-
VD **165
61Wildcat on the Swallowtail Line
-
HS **12
62Savage Simian
-
HVS 4c **8
63Savage Simian/Monkeyhanger FinishHVS 4c **1
64Janet of the Apes
-
VS 4c 3
65Victory V
-
E2 5b *2
66The Overhanging Crack Finish
-
E2 5b 3
67Zephyr
-
VD 4
68Back from BezingiE1 5b/c *3
69Ituna
-
S 43
70Douber
-
HS 4a *4
71Flasherman
-
VS 4c ***231
72Flasherman Direct
-
HVS 5a *10
73ErectionE1 5a ***134
74Viennese Oyster
-
E3 5c **3
75Soft Touch
-
E4 5c **1
76Erection Arete
-
E4 5c *1
77Full FrontalE5 6a **3
78A Bit on the SideE4 5c **2
79Nurts Way
-
HVS 5a 1
 Dome Slab Area 
81Close Encounters
-
E2 5c *3
82Mellow
-
E4 5c *1
83Talking to Trees
-
E4 5c **7
84Cat Walk
-
VS 4c **6
85Beyond the Thunder Dome
-
E5 6b *1
86Dome Slab
-
E6 6a ***4
 The Split Boulder 
88Split Boulder Problem 1f6B 4
89Split Boulder Problem 2 (Crack)f6A 8
90Split Boulder Problem 3f6B+ **7
91Split Boulder Problem 3 (without crack)f7A+ **3
92Split Boulder Problem 4f7B **3
93Split Boulder Problem 5f6B **5
 Red Buttress 
95Good Dog glen
-
VS 4c  
96Red Spider
-
E2 5b 2
97Red Monkey
-
E1 5b **2
98Red Lion
-
HVS 5a 6
99Fox and Pheasant
-
HVS 5a  
 Paper Moon Area 
101Coombs Crack
-
HVS 5a 6
102Wafer Thin
-
E5 6b **5
103Paper Moon
-
E3 5c **46
104Bad Moon Rising
-
none 6b 1
105Devil Moonnone 6b/c 4
106New Moon
-
E5 6b *2
107Lunar SeaE7 6c **1
108Moondance
-
E1 5b *1
 Final Section 
 Free and Easy 
111The Mantleshelf
-
V2 1
112Moving Pictures
-
none 6a/b  
113One Hand Clapping
-
E6 6a * 
114Free and Easy
-
E4 5c **39
115Plain Sailingnone 6b **3
116Sailing ShoesE7 6b **7
117Mr Bundy's Best Friend
-
none 6b  
118The Crescent
-
E3 5b **12
119The High Girdle
-
E6 6a/b  
 Codpiece area 
121Jelly Terror
-
E1 5b 53
122Rise and Shinenone 5c *1
123Crescent Arete
-
E6 6a **12
124Y Front
-
E2 5b *25
125Barnacle Bill
-
E1 5b **153
126Limpet Lil
-
E2 5c *4
127ScallopE7 6b ***12
128Lenny LimpetE7 6a/b ***25
129Appointment with Smears A.K.A The Limpet LeapE7 6a/b **8
130Andy's SlabE4 6a **22
131Andy's Slab Variation Finish
-
none 6a 2
132Andy's Codpiecenone 6a *3
133Codpiece Left Hand
-
E1 5b *21
134CodpieceE3 6a **27
135PickPocket
-
E3 5c **9
136PickPocket Superdirect
-
E3 6a *1
137The Black Russian
-
none 6b  
138Pickpocket Direct
-
E2 5b *2
139Solitaire
-
E2 5b 1
140Pocket Solitaire
-
none 5c  
141Diamond Lil
-
E3 5c  
142Cluedo
-
E2 5b 3
143John's and Frog's Route
-
E2 5b  
144The Field of Dreams
-
none 5c  
145The Green Knight
-
HVS 5a 1
146Tramlines
-
E2 5b 2

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