Climbs 136 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A good sandstone crag in an idyllic location by the river.

Classic's include King Fisher (VD) Glenwille Grooves (HS), Flasherman (VS), Erection (HVS), Barnacle Bill (E1), Paper Moon (E3), Exorcist (E4) and Free and Easy (E5). Some harder routes are quite bold, and the less frequented routes might need a gentle brush before leading (a towel works best).


Protection on the majority of hard routes is often absent or illusory and many of the first ascents, especially of the hardest climbs, involved abseil inspection and top rope practice prior to the lead. This should be born in mind by anyone considering an "on-sight" lead.

Please be kind to the rock when leading, its probably best not to test that sound looking nut behind that flake in a fall!

There is also plentiful steep bouldering by the river and elsewhere. The problems listed here are taken from the Eden Valley FRCC Guide (Sandy Bay). Further problems (Split Boulder) can be found on

Many of the N.L. routes are slowly being whittled down so you may need to cross reference with the FRCC Eden Valley Guide to see what ones are left for you to do!

Approach notes
Idyllic riverside spot.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Eden Valley & South Lakes Limestone (2012), Lake District Rock (2003), LakesBloc Website,
Out of print: North of England Rock Climbs (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2F.B.S.JVD 4
3Blank's ExpressionVS 5a 2
4BoomerangVS 4b *12
5AborigineHVS 4c *3
6Cook's Left HandVS 4b *3
7Cook's CrackVS 4b *4
8Cook's ApronVS 4c *2
9Cook's TourHVS 5a/b **5
10BlockbusterHS 4a 4
11Tree AnticsMVS 2
12A Big HandS 12
14KingfisherVD **148
15Kaleidoscope EyesE2 5b * 
16Grey DusterE3 6a **3
17The AreteE3 6c **2
18Time and Motion ManE1 5b **61
19The OrbitE4 6a ***2
20Blue LugsE5 5c *3
21The ExorcistE4 5c ***51
22Blast OffE4 6a *4
23Glenwille Grooves DirectMVS *40
24Glenwillie GroovesHS 4b **233
26Problem 1 (Green Dots) LakesBloc Problem 10V3 ***23
27Problem 2 (Red Dots)V4 **32
28Problem 3 (Yellow Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 9V7 **23
29Problem 4 (Blue Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 7V6 ***25
30Problem 5 (Pink Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 5V6 **12
31Problem 6 (Black Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 6V5 **36
32Problem 7 (White Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 2V2 42
33Problem 8 (Blue Line) Lakesbloc Problem 1V3 **18
34Problem 9 (Red Line)V3 **17
35Problem 10 (Pump Loop, Yellow Line)V3 **22
37Harry's AreteE1 5b 4
38Harry's GrooveHS 4b 9
39Smiling FacesVS 4b 7
4039 StepsVD *35
42Ducking DropE1 5a *2
43HerbieVS 4c 2
44Meat is MurderE2 5b **3
45Stinkhorn AreteE2 5b **2
46Astral WallE3 6a *4
47StinkhornS 3
49Petit MalVD 4
50NosescratcherHS 8
51Indian's RevengeE5 6a *4
52Joe Soap's CornerVS 4b 13
53Cally CrackE2 5b/c *28
54Jeff's WallV4 6a/b *5
56Princess Anne's New RingS 35
57Hooked UpE3 5c 2
58The MonkeyhangerHVS 4c **41
59The SchnuckVS 4c *2
60Bullgine RunVD **151
61Wildcat on the Swallowtail LineHS **10
62Savage SimianHVS 5a **3
63Janet of the ApesVS 4c 3
64Victory VE2 5b *2
65The Overhanging Crack FinishE2 5b 3
66ZephyrVD 4
67Back from BezingiE1 5b/c *3
68ItunaS 37
69DouberHS 4a *4
70FlashermanVS 4c ***204
71Flasherman DirectHVS 5a *7
72ErectionE1 5a ***120
73Viennese OysterE3 5c **1
74Soft TouchE4 5c **1
75Erection Aretenone 5c  
76Full FrontalE6 6a **2
77Nurts WayHVS 5a 1
79Close EncountersE2 5c *2
80MellowE4 5c *1
81Talking to TreesE4 5c **6
82Cat WalkVS 4c **5
83Beyond the Thunder DomeE5 6b *1
84Dome SlabE6 6a ***4
86Split Boulder Problem 1f6B 4
87Split Boulder Problem 2 (Crack)f6A 8
88Split Boulder Problem 3f6B+ **7
89Split Boulder Problem 3 (without crack)f7A+ **3
90Split Boulder Problem 4f7B **2
91Split Boulder Problem 5f6B **5
93Good Dog glenVS 4c  
94Red SpiderE2 5b  
95Red MonkeyE1 5b **2
96Red LionHVS 5a 6
97Fox and PheasantHVS 5a  
99Coombs CrackHVS 5a 5
100Wafer ThinE5 6b **5
101Paper MoonE3 5c **42
102Bad Moon Risingnone 6b 1
103Devil Moonnone 6b/c 3
104New MoonE5 6b *2
105Lunar SeaE7 6c **1
106MoondanceE1 5b *1
109The MantleshelfV2 1
110Moving Picturesnone 6a/b  
111One Hand ClappingE6 6a * 
112Free and EasyE4 5c **35
113Plain Sailingnone 6b **3
114Sailing ShoesE7 6b **7
115Mr Bundy's Best Friendnone 6b  
116The CrescentE3 5b **11
117The High GirdleE6 6a/b  
119Jelly TerrorE1 5b 49
120Rise and Shinenone 5c *1
121Crescent AreteE6 6a **10
122Y FrontE2 5b *24
123Barnacle BillE1 5b **140
124Limpet LilE2 5c *4
125ScallopE7 6b ***11
126Lenny LimpetE7 6a/b ***23
127Appointment with Smears A.K.A The Limpet LeapE7 6a/b **8
128Andy's SlabE4 6a **21
129Andy's Slab Variation Finishnone 6a 2
130Andy's Codpiecenone 6a *3
131Codpiece Left HandE1 5b *17
132CodpieceE3 6a **25
133PickPocketE3 5c **8
134PickPocket SuperdirectE3 6a *1
135The Black Russiannone 6b  
136Pickpocket DirectE2 5b *2
137SolitaireE2 5b 1
138Pocket Solitairenone 5c  
139Diamond LilE3 5c  
140CluedoE2 5b 3
141John's and Frog's RouteE2 5b  
142The Field of Dreamsnone 5c  
143The Green KnightHVS 5a 1
144TramlinesE2 5b 2
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer petegunn

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
All bouldering problems on "sandy bay" are now from the FRCC guide to the Eden Valley. Most problems are eliminate and the new guide shows whats what more clearly, rather than the lakesbloc guide.
petegunn - 15/Apr/14