Climbs 141
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces SW

Andy shunting, myself jumping! © Jago Miller Productions

Crag features

A good sandstone crag in an idyllic location by the river.

Classic's include King Fisher (VD) Glenwille Grooves (HS), Flasherman (VS), Erection (HVS), Barnacle Bill (E1), Paper Moon (E3), Exorcist (E4) and Free and Easy (E5). Some harder routes are quite bold, and the less frequented routes might need a gentle brush before leading (a towel works best).

TAKE NOTE

Protection on the majority of hard routes is often absent or illusory and many of the first ascents, especially of the hardest climbs, involved abseil inspection and top rope practice prior to the lead. This should be born in mind by anyone considering an "on-sight" lead.

Please be kind to the rock when leading, its probably best not to test that sound looking nut behind that flake in a fall!

There is also plentiful steep bouldering by the river and elsewhere. The problems listed here are taken from the Eden Valley FRCC Guide (Sandy Bay). Further problems (Split Boulder) can be found on Lakesbloc.com

Many of the N.L. routes are slowly being whittled down so you may need to cross reference with the FRCC Eden Valley Guide to see what ones are left for you to do!

Approach notes

Idyllic riverside spot.

All bouldering problems on "sandy bay" are now from the FRCC guide to the Eden Valley. Most problems are eliminate and the new guide shows whats what more clearly, rather than the lakesbloc guide.
petegunn - 15/Apr/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Faces Buttress 
2F.B.S.J
-
VD 6
3Blank's Expression
-
VS 5a 2
4Boomerang
-
VS 4b *12
5Aborigine
-
HVS 4c *3
6Cook's Left Hand
-
VS 4b *3
7Cook's Crack
-
VS 4b *4
8Cook's Apron
-
VS 4c *2
9Cook's TourHVS 5a/b **5
10Blockbuster
-
HS 4a 5
11Tree AnticsMVS 2
12A Big Hand
-
S 14
 Sandy Bay 
14KingfisherVD **172
15Kaleidoscope Eyes
-
E2 5b *1
16Grey Duster
-
E3 6a **4
17The Arete
-
E3 6c **6
18Time and Motion Man
-
E1 5b **78
19The OrbitE4 6a ***2
20Blue Lugs
-
E5 5c *4
21The ExorcistE4 5c ***69
22Blast Off
-
E4 6a *5
23Glenwille Grooves Direct
-
MVS *48
24Glenwillie Grooves
-
HS 4b **271
 Sandy Bay bouldering 
26Problem 1 (Green Dots) LakesBloc Problem 10
-
V3 ***31
27Problem 2 (Red Dots)
-
V4 **35
28Problem 3 (Yellow Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 9V7 **27
29Problem 4 (Blue Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 7V6 ***31
30Problem 5 (Pink Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 5V6 **14
31Problem 6 (Black Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 6
-
V5 **42
32Problem 7 (White Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 2V2 49
33Problem 8 (Blue Line) Lakesbloc Problem 1V3 **20
34Problem 9 (Red Line)V3 **19
35Problem 10 (Pump Loop, Yellow Line)V3 **27
 Harry's Groove Area 
37Harry's Arete
-
E1 5b 5
38Harry's Groove
-
HS 4b 13
39Smiling Faces
-
VS 4b 10
4039 Steps
-
VD *47
 Stinkhorn Buttress 
42Ducking Drop
-
E1 5a *2
43Herbie
-
VS 4c 2
44Meat is Murder
-
E2 5b **3
45Stinkhorn AreteE2 5b **2
46Astral WallE3 6a *4
47Stinkhorn
-
S 3
 Hetherington's Bay Problems and Routes 
49Mini Rooff5+ 1
50Indian's Revenge Startf5+ 1
51Roof Left-handf6A+ 1
52Roof Middlef6C 1
53Roof Right-handf6A 1
54Joe Soap's Startf4+ 1
55Jeff's Wallf6C 5
56Scary Aretef6B 1
57Hooked Up Startf6A 1
58Hand Traverse with overhanging loopf6A+ 1
59Petit Mal
-
VD 8
60Nosescratcher
-
HS 8
61Indian's Revenge
-
E5 6a *4
62Joe Soap's Corner
-
VS 4b 17
63Cally Crack
-
E2 5b/c *29
 Central Buttress 
65Princess Anne's New Ring
-
S 45
66Hooked UpE3 5c 4
67The Monkeyhanger
-
HVS 4c **50
68The SchnuckVS 4c *4
69Bullgine Run
-
VD **171
70Wildcat on the Swallowtail Line
-
HS **14
71Savage Simian
-
HVS 4c **10
72Savage Simian/Monkeyhanger FinishHVS 4c **1
73Janet of the Apes
-
VS 4c 3
74Victory V
-
E2 5b *2
75The Overhanging Crack Finish
-
E2 5b 3
76Zephyr
-
VD 4
77Back from BezingiE1 5b/c *3
78Ituna
-
S 45
79Douber
-
HS 4a *4
80Flasherman
-
VS 4c ***244
81Flasherman Direct
-
HVS 5a *12
82ErectionE1 5a ***144
83Viennese Oyster
-
E3 5c **3
84Soft Touch
-
E4 5c **1
85Erection Arete
-
E4 5c *1
86Full FrontalE5 6a **3
87A Bit on the SideE4 5c **2
88Nurts Way
-
HVS 5a 1
 Dome Slab Area 
90Close Encounters
-
E2 5c *3
91Mellow
-
E4 5c *1
92Talking to Trees
-
E4 5c **7
93Cat Walk
-
VS 4c **6
94Beyond the Thunder Dome
-
E5 6b *1
95Dome Slab
-
E6 6a ***4
 The Split Boulder 
97Split Boulder Problem 1f6B 4
98Split Boulder Problem 2 (Crack)f6A 8
99Split Boulder Problem 3f6B+ **7
100Split Boulder Problem 3 (without crack)f7A+ **3
101Split Boulder Problem 4f7B **3
102Split Boulder Problem 5f6B **5
 Red Buttress 
104Good Dog glen
-
VS 4c  
105Red Spider
-
E2 5b 2
106Red Monkey
-
E1 5b **2
107Red Lion
-
HVS 5a 6
108Fox and Pheasant
-
HVS 5a  
 Paper Moon Area 
110Coombs Crack
-
HVS 5a 6
111Wafer Thin
-
E5 6b **5
112Paper Moon
-
E3 5c **46
113Bad Moon Rising
-
none 6b 1
114Devil Moonnone 6b/c 4
115New Moon
-
E5 6b *2
116Lunar SeaE7 6c **1
117Moondance
-
E1 5b *1
 Final Section 
 Free and Easy 
120The Mantleshelf
-
V2 1
121Moving Pictures
-
none 6a/b  
122One Hand Clapping
-
E6 6a * 
123Free and Easy
-
E4 5c **40
124Plain Sailingnone 6b **3
125Sailing ShoesE7 6b **7
126Mr Bundy's Best Friend
-
none 6b  
127The Crescent
-
E3 5b **12
128The High Girdle
-
E6 6a/b  
 Codpiece Area/The Slab 
130Jelly Terror
-
E1 5b 53
131Rise and Shinenone 5c *1
132Crescent Arete
-
E6 6a **12
133Y Front
-
E2 5b *25
134Barnacle Bill
-
E1 5b **153
135Limpet Lil
-
E2 5c *4
136ScallopE7 6b ***16
137Lenny LimpetE7 6a/b ***25
138The Limpet Leap/Appointment with SmearsE7 6a/b **8
139Andy's SlabE4 6a **22
140Andy's Slab Variation Finish
-
none 6a 2
141Winkle PickerE4 6a *3
142Codpiece Left Hand
-
E1 5b *21
143CodpieceE3 6a **27
144PickPocket
-
E3 5c **9
145PickPocket Superdirect
-
E3 6a *1
146The Black Russian
-
none 6b  
147Pickpocket Direct
-
E2 5b *2
148Solitaire
-
E2 5b 1
149Pocket Solitaire
-
none 5c  
150Diamond Lil
-
E3 5c  
151Cluedo
-
E2 5b 3
152John's and Frog's Route
-
E2 5b  
153The Field of Dreams
-
none 5c  
154The Green Knight
-
HVS 5a 1
155Tramlines
-
E2 5b 2

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