Climbs 136 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A good sandstone crag in an idyllic location by the river.

Classic's include King Fisher (VD) Glenwille Grooves (HS), Flasherman (VS), Erection (HVS), Barnacle Bill (E1), Paper Moon (E3), Exorcist (E4) and Free and Easy (E5). Some harder routes are quite bold, and the less frequented routes might need a gentle brush before leading (a towel works best).


Protection on the majority of hard routes is often absent or illusory and many of the first ascents, especially of the hardest climbs, involved abseil inspection and top rope practice prior to the lead. This should be born in mind by anyone considering an "on-sight" lead.

Please be kind to the rock when leading, its probably best not to test that sound looking nut behind that flake in a fall!

There is also plentiful steep bouldering by the river and elsewhere. The problems listed here are taken from the Eden Valley FRCC Guide (Sandy Bay). Further problems (Split Boulder) can be found on

Access notes
Idyllic riverside spot.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Eden Valley & South Lakes Limestone (2012), Lake District Rock (2003), North of England Rock Climbs (1992), LakesBloc Website

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2F.B.S.JVD 2
3Blank's ExpressionVS 5a  
4BoomerangVS 4b *12
5AborigineHVS 4c *3
6Cook's Left HandVS 4b *3
7Cook's CrackVS 4b *4
8Cook's ApronVS 4c * 
9Cook's Tournone 5b  
10BlockbusterHS 4a 3
11A Big HandS 10
13KingfisherVD **139
14Kaleidoscope EyesE2 5b * 
15Grey DusterE3 6a **2
16The AreteE3 6c **2
17Time and Motion ManE1 5b **51
18The OrbitE4 5c/6a ** 
19Blue LugsE5 5c *1
20The ExorcistE4 5c ***49
21Blast OffE4 6a *3
22Glenwille Grooves DirectMVS *29
23Glenwillie GroovesHS 4b **216
25Problem 1 (Green Dots) LakesBloc Problem 10V3 ***19
26Problem 2 (Red Dots)V4 **31
27Problem 3 (Yellow Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 9V7 **23
28Problem 4 (Blue Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 7V6 ***20
29Problem 5 (Pink Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 5V6 **11
30Problem 6 (Black Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 6V5 **28
31Problem 7 (White Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 2V2 34
32Problem 8 (Blue Line) Lakesbloc Problem 1V3 **18
33Problem 9 (Red Line)V3 **15
34Problem 10 (Pump Loop, Yellow Line)V3 **16
36Harry's AreteE1 5b 4
37Harry's GrooveHS 4b 7
38Smiling FacesVS 4b 4
3939 StepsVD *31
41Ducking DropE1 5a *1
42HerbieVS 4c 1
43Meat is MurderE2 5c  
44Astral Wallnone 5c 1
45StinkhornS 1
47Petit MalVD 4
48NosescratcherHS 8
49Indians Revengenone 6b 1
50Joe Soap's CornerVS 4b 10
51Cally CrackE2 5b/c *28
52Jeff's WallV4 6a/b *4
54Princess Anne's New RingS 29
55Hooked UpE3 5c 1
56The MonkeyhangerHVS 4c **40
57Bullgine RunVD **134
58Wildcat on the Swallowtail LineHS **9
59Savage SimianHVS 5a **1
60Janet of the ApesVS 4c  
61Victory VE2 5b 1
62The Overhanging Crack FinishE2 5b 3
63ZephyrVD 3
64Back from BezingiE1 5b/c *3
65ItunaS 32
66DouberHS 4a *3
67FlashermanVS 4c ***183
68Flasherman DirectHVS 5a *5
69ErectionHVS ***109
70Viennese OysterE3 5c **1
71Soft TouchE4 5c **1
72Erection Aretenone 5c  
73Full FrontalE6 6a **2
74Nurts WayHVS 5a 1
76Close EncountersE2 5b/c *1
77MellowE4 5c * 
78Talking to TreesE4 5c **6
79Cat WalkVS 4c **4
80Beyond the Thunder DomeE5 6b *1
81Dome SlabE6 6a ***4
83Split Boulder Problem 1f6B 4
84Split Boulder Problem 2 (Crack)f6A 6
85Split Boulder Problem 3f6B+ **6
86Split Boulder Problem 3 (without crack)f7A+ **3
87Split Boulder Problem 4f7B **2
88Split Boulder Problem 5f6B **4
90Good Dog glenVS 4c  
91Red SpiderE2 5b  
92Red MonkeyE1 5b **1
93Red LionHVS 5a 4
94Fox and PheasantHVS 5a  
96Coombs CrackHVS 5a 5
97Wafer ThinE5 6b **5
98Paper MoonE3 5c **41
99Bad Moon Risingnone 6b 1
100Devil Moonnone 6b/c 3
101New MoonE5 6b *2
102Lunar SeaE7 6c **1
103MoondanceE1 5b *1
106The MantleshelfV2 1
107Moving Picturesnone 6a/b  
108One Hand ClappingE6 6a * 
109Free and EasyE4 5c **30
110Plain Sailingnone 6b ** 
111Sailing ShoesE7 6b **2
112Mr Bundy's Best Friendnone 6b  
113The CrescentE3 5b **8
114The High GirdleE6 6a/b  
116Jelly TerrorE1 5b 47
117Rise and Shinenone 5c *1
118Crescent AreteE6 6a **10
119Y FrontE2 5b *20
120Barnacle BillE1 5b **121
121Limpet LilE2 5c *4
122ScallopE7 6b/c ***8
123Smear or Dienone  
124Lenny LimpetE7 6b ***18
125The Limpet Leapnone 6b ***6
126Andys SlabE4 6a **14
127Andy's Slab Variation Finishnone 6a 1
128Codpiece Left HandE1 5b *15
129CodpieceE2 6a **24
130PickPocketE3 5c **8
131PickPocket SuperdirectE3 6a *1
132The Black Russiannone 6b  
133Pickpocket DirectE2 5b *2
134SolitaireE2 5b 1
135Pocket Solitairenone 5c  
136Diamond LilE3 5c  
137CluedoE2 5b 3
138John's and Frog's RouteE2 5b  
139The Field of Dreamsnone 5c  
140The Green KnightHVS 5a 1
141TramlinesE2 5b 2
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer petegunn

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
All bouldering problems on "sandy bay" are now from the FRCC guide to the Eden Valley. Most problems are eliminate and the new guide shows whats what more clearly, rather than the lakesbloc guide.
petegunn - 15/Apr/14