Climbs 136 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A good sandstone crag in an idyllic location by the river.

Classic's include King Fisher (VD) Glenwille Grooves (HS), Flasherman (VS), Erection (HVS), Barnacle Bill (E1), Paper Moon (E3), Exorcist (E4) and Free and Easy (E5). Some harder routes are quite bold, and the less frequented routes might need a gentle brush before leading (a towel works best).


Protection on the majority of hard routes is often absent or illusory and many of the first ascents, especially of the hardest climbs, involved abseil inspection and top rope practice prior to the lead. This should be born in mind by anyone considering an "on-sight" lead.

Please be kind to the rock when leading, its probably best not to test that sound looking nut behind that flake in a fall!

There is also plentiful steep bouldering by the river and elsewhere. The problems listed here are taken from the Eden Valley FRCC Guide (Sandy Bay). Further problems (Split Boulder) can be found on

Access notes
Idyllic riverside spot.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Eden Valley & South Lakes Limestone (2012), Lake District Rock (2003), North of England Rock Climbs (1992), LakesBloc Website

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2F.B.S.JVD 2
3Blank's ExpressionVS 5a  
4BoomerangVS 4b *12
5AborigineHVS 4c *3
6Cook's Left HandVS 4b *3
7Cook's CrackVS 4b *4
8Cook's ApronVS 4c *2
9Cook's Tournone 5b 2
10BlockbusterHS 4a 4
11A Big HandS 10
13KingfisherVD **140
14Kaleidoscope EyesE2 5b * 
15Grey DusterE3 6a **2
16The AreteE3 6c **2
17Time and Motion ManE1 5b **53
18The OrbitE4 5c/6a ** 
19Blue LugsE5 5c *1
20The ExorcistE4 5c ***49
21Blast OffE4 6a *3
22Glenwille Grooves DirectMVS *32
23Glenwillie GroovesHS 4b **220
25Problem 1 (Green Dots) LakesBloc Problem 10V3 ***19
26Problem 2 (Red Dots)V4 **31
27Problem 3 (Yellow Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 9V7 **23
28Problem 4 (Blue Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 7V6 ***22
29Problem 5 (Pink Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 5V6 **12
30Problem 6 (Black Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 6V5 **30
31Problem 7 (White Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 2V2 36
32Problem 8 (Blue Line) Lakesbloc Problem 1V3 **18
33Problem 9 (Red Line)V3 **15
34Problem 10 (Pump Loop, Yellow Line)V3 **18
36Harry's AreteE1 5b 4
37Harry's GrooveHS 4b 7
38Smiling FacesVS 4b 6
3939 StepsVD *31
41Ducking DropE1 5a *2
42HerbieVS 4c 2
43Meat is MurderE2 5c 1
44Astral Wallnone 5c 1
45StinkhornS 1
47Petit MalVD 4
48NosescratcherHS 8
49Indians Revengenone 6b 1
50Joe Soap's CornerVS 4b 13
51Cally CrackE2 5b/c *28
52Jeff's WallV4 6a/b *5
54Princess Anne's New RingS 31
55Hooked UpE3 5c 1
56The MonkeyhangerHVS 4c **41
57The SchnuckVS 4c *2
58Bullgine RunVD **138
59Wildcat on the Swallowtail LineHS **10
60Savage SimianHVS 5a **1
61Janet of the ApesVS 4c  
62Victory VE2 5b 1
63The Overhanging Crack FinishE2 5b 3
64ZephyrVD 3
65Back from BezingiE1 5b/c *3
66ItunaS 33
67DouberHS 4a *3
68FlashermanVS 4c ***190
69Flasherman DirectHVS 5a *5
70ErectionE1 5a ***115
71Viennese OysterE3 5c **1
72Soft TouchE4 5c **1
73Erection Aretenone 5c  
74Full FrontalE6 6a **2
75Nurts WayHVS 5a 1
77Close EncountersE2 5b/c *1
78MellowE4 5c * 
79Talking to TreesE4 5c **6
80Cat WalkVS 4c **4
81Beyond the Thunder DomeE5 6b *1
82Dome SlabE6 6a ***4
84Split Boulder Problem 1f6B 4
85Split Boulder Problem 2 (Crack)f6A 6
86Split Boulder Problem 3f6B+ **6
87Split Boulder Problem 3 (without crack)f7A+ **3
88Split Boulder Problem 4f7B **2
89Split Boulder Problem 5f6B **4
91Good Dog glenVS 4c  
92Red SpiderE2 5b  
93Red MonkeyE1 5b **1
94Red LionHVS 5a 4
95Fox and PheasantHVS 5a  
97Coombs CrackHVS 5a 5
98Wafer ThinE5 6b **5
99Paper MoonE3 5c **41
100Bad Moon Risingnone 6b 1
101Devil Moonnone 6b/c 3
102New MoonE5 6b *2
103Lunar SeaE7 6c **1
104MoondanceE1 5b *1
107The MantleshelfV2 1
108Moving Picturesnone 6a/b  
109One Hand ClappingE6 6a * 
110Free and EasyE4 5c **30
111Plain Sailingnone 6b ** 
112Sailing ShoesE7 6b **2
113Mr Bundy's Best Friendnone 6b  
114The CrescentE3 5b **9
115The High GirdleE6 6a/b  
117Jelly TerrorE1 5b 48
118Rise and Shinenone 5c *1
119Crescent AreteE6 6a **10
120Y FrontE2 5b *23
121Barnacle BillE1 5b **125
122Limpet LilE2 5c *4
123ScallopE7 6b ***10
124Lenny LimpetE7 6a/b ***21
125Appointment with SmearsE7 6a/b **7
126Andy's SlabE4 6a **17
127Andy's Slab Variation Finishnone 6a 2
128Andy's Codpiecenone 6a *3
129Codpiece Left HandE1 5b *16
130CodpieceE3 6a **24
131PickPocketE3 5c **8
132PickPocket SuperdirectE3 6a *1
133The Black Russiannone 6b  
134Pickpocket DirectE2 5b *2
135SolitaireE2 5b 1
136Pocket Solitairenone 5c  
137Diamond LilE3 5c  
138CluedoE2 5b 3
139John's and Frog's RouteE2 5b  
140The Field of Dreamsnone 5c  
141The Green KnightHVS 5a 1
142TramlinesE2 5b 2
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer petegunn

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
All bouldering problems on "sandy bay" are now from the FRCC guide to the Eden Valley. Most problems are eliminate and the new guide shows whats what more clearly, rather than the lakesbloc guide.
petegunn - 15/Apr/14