Head End Quarry forms one of a series of small limestone quarries found in the Carboniferous Limestone which forms a ridge around the northern edge of the English Lake District. Suitable for novices and as an alternative to the cafe when it's raining too hard down Borrowdale.
The quarry has a south facing aspect and is about 30 feet high and 140 feet long. It is relatively quick to dry, views from the top are extensive - North across the Solway plain (and Firth) to Scotland, and South to the back a Skiddaw fells (watch for the sunset behind Binsey - it can be truly magnificent).
Erosion is becoming a problem at the top of the quarry so avoid setting top ropes which will cause any more erosion - get the belay krab OVER THE EDGE. Iron stakes give belays at the top of the quarry, avoid using the small bushes as belays. (Bad for the bush, potentially very bad for you.)
The quarry is popular with groups and can be crowded at times.
Nearest facilities are in Ireby (two pubs one containing the village shop and post office), closest phone box is 300 yards down the hill to Sandale and take the first right.
[Andy Johnston 4/02]
Just a short list of the climbs that are there:
1. Novices' Route - Mod - 25'
2. West End Groove - HDif - 25'
3. West End Direct - VDif - 25'
4. Diogenes - S - 25'
5. Headend Chimney - HDif
No access problems, the quarry is a stones throw from the road. Car parking is available along the road by the quarry in a few lay-bys. Space for around 5 cars. Don't be tempted to drive too far up the track towards the quarry to park, cars will ground on the rocks here.
North of England Rock Climbs (1992)
|3||West End Groove||VD *||153|
|4||West End Direct||S *||105|
|7||Controlled Gurning||VS 5a||42|
|9||Kamikaze||HVS 5a *||54|
|10||Pat The Dog||E1 5b||14|
|11||Nippo Crack||VS 4c *||86|
|12||Letter-Box Direct||MVS 4b *||97|
|13||Divine Wind||VS 4c *||14|
|14||Letter-Box||MVS 4b **||108|
|15||Bird's Nest Direct||D *||103|
|18||Crusthound||HVS 5b *||117|
|20||Snail Wall||S 4a||86|
|21||Fossil Arete||HS 4a *||32|
|22||Devil's Kneecap||S 4a *||88|
|25||Crystal Cruise||VS 4c *||79|
|26||Crystal Wall Direct||MS 4a **||194|
|27||Dids||VS 5a *||44|
|28||W.A.C||VS 5a *||59|
|29||The Butcher's Dog||HVS 5a *||62|
|30||Nut Smasher Crack||VD||81|
|31||Terrace Stairway||M *||83|
|35||Heads or Tails||V1||22|
|36||Chilblains||HS 4b *||1|
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|Overgraded compared to rest of lakes. Grades in new fell and rock guide are more realistic.Some routes are very polished.|
smollett - 03/Mar/13