Headend quarry

Climbs 38 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features

Head End Quarry forms one of a series of small limestone quarries found in the Carboniferous Limestone which forms a ridge around the northern edge of the English Lake District. Suitable for novices and as an alternative to the cafe when it's raining too hard down Borrowdale.


The quarry has a south facing aspect and is about 30 feet high and 140 feet long. It is relatively quick to dry, views from the top are extensive - North across the Solway plain (and Firth) to Scotland, and South to the back a Skiddaw fells (watch for the sunset behind Binsey - it can be truly magnificent).


Erosion is becoming a problem at the top of the quarry so avoid setting top ropes which will cause any more erosion - get the belay krab OVER THE EDGE. Iron stakes give belays at the top of the quarry, avoid using the small bushes as belays. (Bad for the bush, potentially very bad for you.)


The quarry is popular with groups and can be crowded at times.

Nearest facilities are in Ireby (two pubs one containing the village shop and post office), closest phone box is 300 yards down the hill to Sandale and take the first right.


[Andy Johnston 4/02]


Just a short list of the climbs that are there:

1. Novices' Route - Mod - 25'

2. West End Groove - HDif - 25'

3. West End Direct - VDif - 25'

4. Diogenes - S - 25'

5. Headend Chimney - HDif

Approach notes

No access problems, the quarry is a stones throw from the road. Car parking is available along the road by the quarry in a few lay-bys. Space for around 5 cars. Don't be tempted to drive too far up the track towards the quarry to park, cars will ground on the rocks here.
(06/2012)

Guidebooks
Eden Valley & South Lakes Limestone (2012),
Out of print: North of England Rock Climbs (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 WEST END WALL  
2Novices' RouteVD 102
3Catlands WallMVS 4c *71
4West End GrooveVD *166
5West End DirectS *110
6Dodgy NeckVS 4c 68
7DiogenesS 4b 94
8Controlled GurningVS 5a 44
9Headend ChimneyMS 114
 SUICIDE WALL  
11KamikazeHVS 5a *58
12Pat The DogE1 5b 15
13Nippo CrackVS 4c *90
14Letter-Box DirectMVS 4b *102
15Divine WindVS 4c *15
16Letter-BoxMVS 4b **112
17Bird's Nest DirectD *117
 SUMMIT FACE  
19BilberryVD 88
20BloodhoundE1 5b **62
21CrusthoundHVS 5b *126
22Soap GutS 71
23Snail WallS 4a 90
24Fossil AreteHS 4a *33
25Devil's KneecapS 4a *89
26MolluscMVS 4c 10
 CRYSTAL WALL  
28BlahS 4b 94
29Crystal CruiseVS 4c *81
30Crystal Wall DirectMS 4a **209
31DidsVS 5a *45
32W.A.CVS 5a **60
33The Butcher's DogHVS 5a *64
 TERRACE WALL  
35Nut Smasher CrackVD *90
36Terrace StairwayM *97
37TerrazaS 4b 46
38Piggy MaloneHS 67
39BobtailD *62
 TRAVERSES / GIRDLES  
41Heads or TailsV1 23
42ChilblainsHS 4b *3
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Overgraded compared to rest of lakes. Grades in new fell and rock guide are more realistic.Some routes are very polished.
smollett - 03/Mar/13