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These details were last updated on 07/Jul/2013

Headend quarry

Cumbria, ENGLAND

Climbs 37 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Head End Quarry forms one of a series of small limestone quarries found in the Carboniferous Limestone which forms a ridge around the northern edge of the English Lake District. Suitable for novices and as an alternative to the cafe when it's raining too hard down Borrowdale.

The quarry has a south facing aspect and is about 30 feet high and 140 feet long. It is relatively quick to dry, views from the top are extensive - North across the Solway plain (and Firth) to Scotland, and South to the back a Skiddaw fells (watch for the sunset behind Binsey - it can be truly magnificent).

Erosion is becoming a problem at the top of the quarry so avoid setting top ropes which will cause any more erosion - get the belay krab OVER THE EDGE. Iron stakes give belays at the top of the quarry, avoid using the small bushes as belays. (Bad for the bush, potentially very bad for you.)

The quarry is popular with groups and can be crowded at times.

Nearest facilities are in Ireby (two pubs one containing the village shop and post office), closest phone box is 300 yards down the hill to Sandale and take the first right.

[Andy Johnston 4/02]

Just a short list of the climbs that are there:

1. Novices' Route - Mod - 25'

2. West End Groove - HDif - 25'

3. West End Direct - VDif - 25'

4. Diogenes - S - 25'

5. Headend Chimney - HDif

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 

5.9mm rain
Sunny periods
11 °C
17 kph

0.1mm rain
Sun
10 °C
10 kph

0.0mm rain
Cloudy
10 °C
17 kph

2.6mm rain
Cloudy
9 °C
15 kph

0.2mm rain
Sun
11 °C
15 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Lake DistrictMet Office: Lake District

Guidebooks
North of England Rock Climbs (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Novices' RouteM 84
2Catlands WallHS 58
3West End GrooveHD *135
4West End DirectVD *93
5Dodgy NeckS 60
6DiogenesS 78
7Controlled GurningVS 5a 36
8Headend ChimneyHD 92
9KamikazeVS 4c *50
10Pat The DogE3 5c 10
11Nippo CrackHS 4a *74
12Letter-Box DirectS *84
13Letter-BoxMS **97
14Bird's Nest DirectD *95
15BilberryS 78
16BloodhoundHVS 5b 52
17CrusthoundE1 5b *105
18Soap GutS 64
19Snail WallS 77
 Climb nameGradex
20Devil's KneecapVD *76
21BlahS 83
22Crystal CruiseHS 4b *68
23Crystal Wall DirectMS **173
24DidsHS 4b *40
25W.A.CMVS 4b *56
26The Butcher's DogMVS 4c **42
27Nut Smasher CrackVD 74
28Terrace StairwayM *78
29Piggy MaloneD 54
30BobtailD 54
31Heads or TailsVB ?? 18
32TerrazaS 4b 38
33Fossil AreteVS 4c *28
34The Butchers DogMVS 4c 14
35Divine WindVS *12
36Mollusc *MVS 4c 3
37Devils knee cap *VD 5
38Letter box direct *HS 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Access notes
No access problems, the quarry is a stones throw from the road. Car parking is available along the road by the quarry in a few lay-bys. Space for around 5 cars. Don't be tempted to drive too far up the track towards the quarry to park, cars will ground on the rocks here.

(06/2012)

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Volunteer to moderate Headend quarry
We rely on volunteers to moderate their local crags. You would check updates and approve climbs added to the database. It's a very easy job, and all you need is a guidebook and an hour or two each month. [ read more ]

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Overgraded compared to rest of lakes. Grades in new fell and rock guide are more realistic.Some routes are very polished.
smollett - 03/Mar/13