Climbs 39
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces S

Matthew free soloing a route in a disused quarry. © Joel Stephenson

Crag features

Head End Quarry forms one of a series of small limestone quarries found in the Carboniferous Limestone which forms a ridge around the northern edge of the English Lake District. Suitable for novices and as an alternative to the cafe when it's raining too hard down Borrowdale.

The quarry has a south facing aspect and is about 30 feet high and 140 feet long. It is relatively quick to dry, views from the top are extensive - North across the Solway plain (and Firth) to Scotland, and South to the back a Skiddaw fells (watch for the sunset behind Binsey - it can be truly magnificent).

Erosion is becoming a problem at the top of the quarry so avoid setting top ropes which will cause any more erosion - get the belay krab OVER THE EDGE. Iron stakes give belays at the top of the quarry, avoid using the small bushes as belays. (Bad for the bush, potentially very bad for you.)

The quarry is popular with groups and can be crowded at times.
Nearest facilities are in Ireby (two pubs one containing the village shop and post office), closest phone box is 300 yards down the hill to Sandale and take the first right.

[Andy Johnston 4/02]

Just a short list of the climbs that are there:
1. Novices' Route - Mod - 25'
2. West End Groove - HDif - 25'
3. West End Direct - VDif - 25'
4. Diogenes - S - 25'
5. Headend Chimney - HDif

Approach notes

No access problems, the quarry is a stones throw from the road. Car parking is available along the road by the quarry in a few lay-bys. Space for around 5 cars. Don't be tempted to drive too far up the track towards the quarry to park, cars will ground on the rocks here.

Overgraded compared to rest of lakes. Grades in new fell and rock guide are more realistic.Some routes are very polished.
smollett - 03/Mar/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 West End Wall 
2Novices' Route
VD 122
3Catlands Wall
MVS 4c *82
4West End Groove
VD *191
5West End Direct
S *124
6Dodgy Neck
VS 4c 70
S 4b 104
8Controlled Gurning
VS 5a 47
9Headend Chimney
MS 129
 Suicide Wall 
HVS 5a *59
12Pat The DogE1 5b 16
13Nippo Crack
VS 4c *98
14Letter-Box Direct
MVS 4b *110
15Divine Wind
VS 4c *20
MVS 4b **119
17Bird's Nest Direct
D *139
 Summit Face 
VD 92
20BloodhoundE1 5b **69
HVS 5b *133
22Soap Gut
S 75
23Snail Wall
S 4a 93
24Fossil AreteHS 4a *36
25Devil's Kneecap
S 4a *93
26MolluscMVS 4c 13
 Crystal Wall 
S 4b 103
29Crystal CruiseVS 4c *86
30Crystal Wall DirectMS 4a **227
VS 5a *47
VS 5a **63
33The Butcher's Dog
HVS 5a *67
 Terrace Wall 
35Nut Smasher Crack
VD *108
36Terrace StairwayM *114
37TerrazaS 4b 53
38Piggy Malone
HS 77
39BobtailD *70
 Traverses / Girdles 
41Heads or TailsV1 30
42ChilblainsHS 4b *5
44GT ArÍteV2 ** 
45GT ArÍte SSV2 *** 

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