Headend quarry

Climbs 38 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Head End Quarry forms one of a series of small limestone quarries found in the Carboniferous Limestone which forms a ridge around the northern edge of the English Lake District. Suitable for novices and as an alternative to the cafe when it's raining too hard down Borrowdale.

The quarry has a south facing aspect and is about 30 feet high and 140 feet long. It is relatively quick to dry, views from the top are extensive - North across the Solway plain (and Firth) to Scotland, and South to the back a Skiddaw fells (watch for the sunset behind Binsey - it can be truly magnificent).

Erosion is becoming a problem at the top of the quarry so avoid setting top ropes which will cause any more erosion - get the belay krab OVER THE EDGE. Iron stakes give belays at the top of the quarry, avoid using the small bushes as belays. (Bad for the bush, potentially very bad for you.)

The quarry is popular with groups and can be crowded at times.

Nearest facilities are in Ireby (two pubs one containing the village shop and post office), closest phone box is 300 yards down the hill to Sandale and take the first right.

[Andy Johnston 4/02]

Just a short list of the climbs that are there:

1. Novices' Route - Mod - 25'

2. West End Groove - HDif - 25'

3. West End Direct - VDif - 25'

4. Diogenes - S - 25'

5. Headend Chimney - HDif

Access notes
No access problems, the quarry is a stones throw from the road. Car parking is available along the road by the quarry in a few lay-bys. Space for around 5 cars. Don't be tempted to drive too far up the track towards the quarry to park, cars will ground on the rocks here.

(06/2012)

Guidebooks
North of England Rock Climbs (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Novices' RouteVD 93
2Catlands WallMVS 65
3West End GrooveVD *153
4West End DirectS *105
5Dodgy NeckVS 66
6DiogenesS 88
7Controlled GurningVS 5a 42
8Headend ChimneyMS 104
9KamikazeHVS 5a *54
10Pat The DogE1 5b 14
11Nippo CrackVS 4c *86
12Letter-Box DirectMVS 4b *97
13Divine WindVS 4c *14
14Letter-BoxMVS 4b **108
15Bird's Nest DirectD *103
16BilberryVD 82
17BloodhoundE1 5b 58
18CrusthoundHVS 5b *117
19Soap GutS 69
20Snail WallS 4a 86
21Fossil AreteHS 4a *32
22Devil's KneecapS 4a *88
23MolluscMVS 4c 9
24BlahS 4b 91
25Crystal CruiseVS 4c *79
26Crystal Wall DirectMS 4a **194
27DidsVS 5a *44
28W.A.CVS 5a *59
29The Butcher's DogHVS 5a *62
30Nut Smasher CrackVD 81
31Terrace StairwayM *83
32TerrazaS 4b 44
33Piggy MaloneHS 65
34BobtailD 60
35Heads or TailsV1 22
36ChilblainsHS 4b *1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Overgraded compared to rest of lakes. Grades in new fell and rock guide are more realistic.Some routes are very polished.
smollett - 03/Mar/13