Fairy Cave Quarry

Climbs 149 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
A large limestone quarry featuring some very good quality slabs up to 40m in height. The main areas mostly face north; nevertheless they get some sun from May to August and are quick to dry. The slabs can, however, remain damp for extended periods in the depths of winter. There is also an assortment of areas facing west, south and east: these are generally of lesser quality. Recommended routes: Rob's Crack (VS), Moving Target (E3), Glacial Point (E4), Strictly Ballroom (E1).

For access it is vital to first read the access notes issued by the BMC at http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=650. In particular note "The combination for the padlock can be obtained by emailing Ian Butterworth, the BMC SW Access Rep for Mendip & Somerset, at fcq@btinternet.com stating your name, contact details and membership of any climbing clubs or BMC. [BMC membership is not a condition of entry.] Ian will return the combination padlock code. He will maintain a list of those who have been provided with the code so they can be informed should it be changed." Ian is to be congratulated for the successful conclusion of a sustained period of negotiation.

Access notes
The quarry is situated just east of a small lane between Stoke St. Michael/Oakhill and Holcombe. It is one and half kilometres west of the Holcombe Quarries, and clearly marked on OS maps. There is roadside parking for four or five cars, but large lorries regularly use the narrow road, so please park with this in mind.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Fairy Cave Quarry (2012), South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Rub-a-tyreE1 6b 3
2A Quick Knee TremblerHS 4b 11
3FoldawaydildoHS 4b 11
4Yet Another Bristolian AffairVS 4c 9
5Rubble Without a CauseS 4b 13
6Dirty NightingaleE1 5b 7
7PimlicoE3 5c 7
8Good IntentionsS 4a 15
9Conditions of EntryHS 4b 2
10Dolly DimpleE1 5a 12
11Dolly Dimple DirectXS 4c 2
12The Radco Checkout GirlHVS 4c 1
13SlideshowHVS 4c 3
14Ten Minute AreteVD 18
15Cookie CrumblesVD 18
16Smell the GloveE1 5b *182
17Smell the Glove (Direct Finish)E1 5b 14
18Rob's SlabE3 5c 14
19Stepping OutE3 5c **37
20Rob's CrackVS 4c ***957
21Four Steps to HeavenE2 5c ***153
22Six Feet UnderE3 5c 4
23Lippy FairyE3 5c *6
24One Leg OverE3 5c *7
25Volume ElevenE3 5c **44
26Seven Mile ThrobE5 6b * 
27Summer DazeHS 4b 142
28Shabby ChicVS 4b 21
29Demon Moves MikeE3 5b *10
30Life in LimboVS 4c 32
31Who Needs Hair Anyway?VD 52
32Valerian TremensXS 4c 10
33Midsummer MadnessXS 4b 2
34Don't Even BreatheXS 5a  
35The Alpine RidgePD 220
36Short Back and SidesS 4a 46
37Odd BootsHVS 5b 100
38Even Odder BootsHVS 5b 38
39Back in KansasS 4a 135
40Back to Sandy LaneVD 105
41Little Steve's Mersey Tunnel AffairS 4a 187
42Equals NotVS 4b 70
43Cristel WallVD 231
44I've Started So...VD 1
45Nevie NooVS 4b 14
46The Duke of CambridgeS 4a 19
47The Duchess of CambridgeS 18
48The SocialistS 4a 170
49Balch's SlideHS 4a *601
50The ToryVS 4a 87
51Anty MatterHS 4b 89
52Running on EmptyVS 4b 22
53Ants in my Leg LoopVS 4b 43
54Elephant's BackHS 24
55Stuff That WorksE2 5c 10
56Comes the SethHVS 5a 56
57The Pleasure PrincipleVS 4c 14
58The ConS 4b *65
59The Conning TowerS 4a 28
60Back to BasicsVD *232
61Pelvic ThrustHS 4a 8
62Backing UpVS 4c 145
63Where's Blagdon?VS 4b 17
64Back OffE2 5b *179
65Bishop's MoveS 4b 29
66Talk to the HandVS 4c *89
67Travel BugE1 5b 23
68Landslide VictoryHS 4b 31
69I Like Big ButtsVD 6
70Grow Your Own WeekendE2 5b 38
71Halfway to KansasHS 4a 366
72Lumbar PunctureE2 5b *166
73Slip DiscE1 5b 1
74Epic-duralE2 5c 56
75My Own TrumpetE2 5c 4
76The Pretentious Bristolian AffairVS 4b 22
77The Bristolian AffairVS 4b 25
78TobleroneE1 5b 114
79TruffleHS 4b 168
80Om PuriVS 4c 99
81Away with the FaeriesVS 4b 39
82Heaven Can WaitHS 4b 86
83Blue Nose, Blue ToesVD 42
84Bonner's RouteHVD 3
85Gatto sul Tetto.S 4a 3
86The Naked Civil ServantE1 5b 14
87Aerie Faerie NonsenseVS 4c 20
88The Early WormHVS 4c 15
89Fairy LitesHS 4b 5
90TinkerbellE1 5c 9
91Standing on the Shoulders of MolesS 22
92Standing on the Shoulders of MoronsVD 5
93Harman's TreeVS 4b 17
94Cassini DivisionE4 5c *17
95Moving TargetE3 5c ***89
96The Darkened RoomE3 5c 7
97The Darkened Room VariationE3 5c 2
98First UpS 4a 85
99Back in BusinessE2 5b 13
100Senile Taff CornerHVS 5a 19
101Senile Taff Corner Direct StartE1 5b 10
102Withy CrackHVS 5a **259
103Bad to the BoneE1 5b *137
104BonerE3 5c 6
105WessexyE2 5b 10
106Who's Yer (Biological) Daddy?VS 4c *8
107Four Paw DriveE3 5c *11
108The Hillwithy ConnectionE1 5a 6
109Bramble WhineVS 4c *132
110The MutantE4 6a *11
111Le FreakE1 5b 8
112PeanutsHVS 5a 44
113Lunar LandscapeVS 4b *223
114PuebloVD 205
115Divided SmearsVS 5a 9
116Ash Tree WallVS 4c 187
117CavemanVS 5a *273
118Jiggery PokeryVS 5a *194
119Glacial Point DirectE4 5c *10
120MisdirectionE3 5c 5
121Glacial PointE4 5c **78
122Slight of HandE2 5c *192
123Rain Rain RainE4 6a 10
124Lorna's LunchS 4a 208
125Real Men do Eat QuicheS 4a **208
126Six Little Fingers and Six Little ToesVS 4b 29
127Pocket Polka (alternative finish)HVS 5a 10
128Pocket PolkaS 4a 111
129Jive Talkin'E1 5b *138
130TswettE1 5b 2
131Minute WaltzVD 247
132Last Tango in OakhillE2 5b *27
133Strictly BallroomE1 5b *209
134Dan's DanceE1 5b 36
135RocketVS 4c 43
136Ender's GameE4 5c 10
137Songs from the ShedVS 4c 10
138Pocket PiranhaE6 6b 1
139Medicinal BreadVS 4c 2
140And The Rest Is F.L.Y.VS 4b 2
141The Randy ReceptionistXS 4a 2
142The Bastard Lovechild Of Henry JacksonXS 4a 2
143Twa CorbiesVS 4c 2
144No TheaHVS 4b 2
145Death WishVS 4a 4
146RIP Keef the Kittin, Poor lil' BuggerE1 5b 2
147Capability BrownE2 5b 6
148Wee BrownieE1 5b 4
149There You Go Norm *S 4a 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer bpmclimb

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
how do i find out the combination to this lock? looking at an adventure this weekend...
01lewisj - 18/Feb/15
Strike that last comment. There is a new lock but you now have to line up the combination against the black line NOT the centre line.
perrinr - 27/Oct/14
I visited today Saturday 25 Oct and there is a new padlock and combination.
perrinr - 25/Oct/14
Please note that the climber in the Epic-dural pic has strayed too far left near the top of the lower slab. In general, there seems to be some (understandable) doubt about the exact line of both this route and Lumbar Puncture. I've amended the route descriptions to (hopefully) make things a little clearer.
bpmclimb - 08/Sep/14
Just be bloody careful, it's all loose as f***!
GBurton - 09/Aug/14
one of the best crags iv been to. helmets are a must due to the loose nature of the rock in some areas, however this will improve with a little more traffic. i love how quiet this place is. on an average day you will have the quarry to yourself and make sure you take sun cream as there very little protction from the sun.
Tom Harper - 20/Jun/14
I love Fairy Cave. Yes, be careful of loose rock; yes, park well off the road. Gradings in the guide for me are not always spot on, agree that Smell the Glove is more like E2, but apart from this I find climbs tend to be over-graded if anything e.g. Life in Limbo, The Tory... A lovely place to hang out for me - very quiet location, lots of birds for company, nice sunsets, good for trad adventures...
Tristypants - 14/May/14
Many routes here rely on sandstone concretions. These are soft and easily broken, the damage near the start of Rob's crack evidence of this. In many soft sandstone areas, Harrisons for example, it is recognised that no climbing should take place for a day or two after rain to minimise rock damage. This doesn't apply to all FCQ but people should consider avoiding routes like 4 Steps... or Stepping Out until they have had a chance to dry completely.
duncan - 16/Oct/13
Black spot Tracy??, really?? The whole bloody quarry is potentially lethal. Brian had a serious accident just scrambling to the very popular Bad to The Bone. Stanage it is not!!
Pylon King Against Capit@lism - 12/Oct/13
Just added a FCQ "Top 20" Ticklist to UKC- based around the 14 climbs included in the CC South West Select Guide Vol. 1, and adding these 6 others: Smell the Glove E1 Stepping Out E3 Back Off E2 Talk to the Hand VS Halfway to Kansas HS Jive Talkin' E1 Complete list: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=656
The Ivanator - 29/Jul/13
Went to FCQ on Monday night - witnessed an accident on Fairy Lite - it is horrendously loose (why no black spot in the guide, Brian??) - belayer pulling ropes up dislodged a block (microwave size) which hit the second on the ground - he was walking wounded back to the car (if it had fallen from much further up i don't think he would have been walking anywhere!) - after the winter be careful there as there will be lots of loose stuff, especially on the newer developed areas as they won't have had much traffic previously.
TraceyR - 05/Jun/13
Be wary of friction with the local youth who like to hang out here just as much as the climbers. On one occasion I have had my car vandalised and on another a very unpleasant confrontation with a couple of ASBO dirt bike riders looking for trouble.
GBurton - 06/Aug/12
FCQ grades are now amended here in the UKC database to reflect those in the new guidebook. Sorry if that has produced any unwanted effects in logbooks!
bpmclimb - 11/Jun/12
New FCQ guidebook now available.
bpmclimb - 24/May/12
Where can I find descriptions for the new routes?
Tom F Harding - 19/Mar/12
UPDATE: several of the newer routes have now had a second lead ascent. Routes that remain unrepeated include: Dirty Nightingale E1, Pimlico E3, One Leg Over E3, Stuff that Works E2, Ender's Game E4, No Thea HVS.
bpmclimb - 15/Jan/12
A new guidebook is being prepared, which will be a stand-alone booklet covering FCQ. The following new routes are in need of a second lead ascent, to confirm the grade and allow their entry into the new guidebook without a dagger. Foldawaydildo VS 4c Dirty Nightingale E1 5b Pimlico E3 5c Dolly Dimple E1 5a One Leg Over E3 5c Stuff That Works E2 5c Talk to the Hand VS 4c The Early Worm HVS 4c Ender's Game E4 5c Capability Brown E2 5b Wee Brownie E2 5b
bpmclimb - 14/May/11
As of 13th July, there is access thanks to the BMC. There is a combination lock on the gate however, but to get the code you need to email Ian. See the BMC website for more :)
stuntsbyjon - 18/Jul/10
Went there mid Sep and saw the fence. Serious amount of money spent to keep people out. According to BMC, the landowner is trying to keep out motorbikes but has an access agreement with cavers. As BMC is working on our behalf, should we really be scaling the fence and angering the landowner?? Not in my opinion... leave it for a few months until we have an agreement in place.
Freddie 1 - 17/Sep/09
A nice mix of trad grades here, but make sure you either check the logs on UKC or have a good examination before you climb some of them - there are a few that are loose beyond belief. Some cracking slab climbs in the VS-E2 range. Doesnt suffer from much seepage. Agree that some of the descents are a bit "atmospheric", frequently abseiling down is the best option
jamespilgrim - 26/Jul/09
Fairy cave is great. Climbing is about adventure and it ticks all the boxes for me! I know most of the routes are overgraded, but i'm quite able to grade them myself. This crag is 40 minutes from home and a serious place, but my kids climb here and love it.
bazzag - 17/Dec/08
It is just a modern quarry, don't expect great things, but Lumbar puncture was a good if not slightly confusing line and Balch's slide is fun on the grade. The higher starred routes on the glacis look solid also but it rained!
John_Warner - 08/Jul/08
This is an awesome venue with some really good slab climbs. I would warn people about parking out on the road though. I climbed there yesterday and parked my car behind others on the side of the road. After a few hours we could hear a horn being sounded from the road so I returned to my car to find a huge truck needing to get past. I had left enough room for a car or small lorry to get past but had not envisaged that the lane would be used by articulated trucks! Make sure cars are parked well of the road to prevent your climbing being interupted by having to move them.
Peter - 15/Jun/06
Poped across from Salisbury yesterday for the day, at last a crag nearby that can be done in an evening. We started unpacking our gear then it started raining, so we poped into Shepton Mallet for a coffee and came back a couple of hours later and it was bone dry. Excellent place and a good range of climbs with no polish. It could do with some more traffic though there is alot of loose stuff around, but no worse than climbing in Swange. The Glacis area is a good introduction.
Rick Nash - 30/May/06
Didn't think the stuff on The Glacis was hugely overgraded, but soft touch - yeah. Slight of Hand is a couple of 5b (maybe v. low 5c) moves with definite deckout potential. Seems like e2 to me. Robs Crack is spot on for a VS. Worth a couple of visits at least.
SARS - 13/Jul/05
Oh, and the locals are apparently friendly too! ;o)
BenP - 20/Apr/05
A good fun place, but wear a lid - it's still fairy 'fresh' in the grand scheme of things. Stuff on the Glacis is usually pretty overgraded (especially the RH side), and Rob's Crack is way overhyped. Some routes are beginning to show early signs of polish. Still a fair few routes to be had if cheesy death is what you're after...
James Jackson - 03/Feb/05
great little crag with some very overgraded routes. Lumbar puncture is nice but only E1. Robs crack and four steps to heaven are great, the latter is only E2 5B. Whithy crack is good too but not for long!!! The routes on the glacis are all a real soft touch. Nice to be on it instead of under it though.
robbie warke - 24/Aug/04
Take care, still a fair bit of loose rock around.
BenP - 12/May/04
Stay clear of Harman's Tree as it is a terrible route. Rob's crack was originally given the strange grade of HS 5a but I think VS 4b is much more realistic. I would also like to nominate this as a three star route, I know that it is in a grotty quarry but I climbed this route yesterday and is is beautiful for every move of it's 100 feet. Just get down there and do it . [Unknown]
(Unknown) - 17/Apr/03