Fairy Cave Quarry

Climbs 148 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
Fairy Cave Quarry is a large limestone quarry which features a selection of very good quality slabs up to 40m in height. The main areas generally face north; nevertheless they get some sun from May to August and are quick to dry. The slabs can, however, remain damp for extended periods in the depths of winter. There is also an assortment of areas facing west and east. Recommended routes: Rob's Crack (VS), Moving Target (E3), Glacial Point (E4), Strictly Ballroom (E1).

For access it is vital to first read the access notes issued by the BMC at http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=650. In particular note "The combination for the padlock can be obtained by emailing Ian Butterworth, the BMC SW Access Rep for Mendip & Somerset, at fcq@btinternet.com stating your name, contact details and membership of any climbing clubs or BMC. [BMC membership is not a condition of entry.] Ian will return the combination padlock code. He will maintain a list of those who have been provided with the code so they can be informed should it be changed." Ian is to be congratulated for the successful conclusion of a sustained period of negotiation.

Large lorries regularly use the narrow road - please park in a way that allows them to get through.

Access notes
The quarry is situated to the east of a small lane between Stoke St. Michael/Oakhill and Holcombe, it is one and half kilometres west of the Holcombe Quarries. Clearly marked on Ordnance Survey maps. There is road-side parking for four or five cars - but parking is cramped, and the road is used by HGVs, which makes life fun. Good local pubs - the Oakhill Inn. The other is the Duke of Cumberland (aka Slaughtered Lamb) in Holcombe, which no longer serves food - cheesy chips no more.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Fairy Cave Quarry (2012), South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Rub-a-tyreE1 6b
2A Quick Knee TremblerHS 4b
3FoldawaydildoHS 4b
4Yet Another Bristolian AffairVS 4c
5Rubble Without a CauseS 4b
6Dirty NightingaleE1 5b
7PimlicoE3 5c
8Good IntentionsS 4a
9Conditions of EntryHS 4b
10Dolly DimpleE1 5a
11Dolly Dimple DirectXS 4c
12The Radco Checkout GirlHVS 4c
13SlideshowHVS 4c
14Ten Minute AreteVD
15Cookie CrumblesVD
16Smell the GloveE1 5b *
17Smell the Glove (Direct Finish)E1 5b
18Rob's SlabE3 5c
19Stepping OutE3 5c **
20Rob's CrackVS 4c ***
21Four Steps to HeavenE2 5c ***
22Six Feet UnderE3 5c
23Lippy FairyE3 5c *
24One Leg OverE3 5c *
25Volume ElevenE3 5c **
26Seven Mile ThrobE5 6b *
27Summer DazeHS 4b
28Shabby ChicVS 4b
29Demon Moves MikeE3 5b *
30Life in LimboVS 4c
31Who Needs Hair Anyway?VD
32Valerian TremensXS 4c
33Midsummer MadnessXS 4b
34Don't Even BreatheXS 5a
35The Alpine RidgePD
36Short Back and SidesS 4a
37Odd BootsHVS 5b
38Even Odder BootsHVS 5b
39Back in KansasS 4a
40Back to Sandy LaneVD
41Little Steve's Mersey Tunnel AffairS 4a
42Equals NotVS 4b
43Cristel WallVD
44I've Started So...VD
45Nevie NooVS 4b
46The Duke of CambridgeS 4a
47The Duchess of CambridgeS
48The SocialistS 4a
49Balch's SlideHS 4a *
50The ToryVS 4a
51Anty MatterHS 4b
52Running on EmptyVS 4b
53Ants in my Leg LoopVS 4b
54Elephant's BackHS
55Stuff That WorksE2 5c
56Comes the SethHVS 5a
57The Pleasure PrincipleVS 4c
58The ConS 4b *
59The Conning TowerS 4a
60Back to BasicsVD *
61Pelvic ThrustHS 4a
62Backing UpVS 4c
63Where's Blagdon?VS 4b
64Back OffE2 5b *
65Bishop's MoveS 4b
66Talk to the HandVS 4c *
67Travel BugE1 5b
68Landslide VictoryHS 4b
69I Like Big ButtsVD
70Grow Your Own WeekendE2 5b
71Halfway to KansasHS 4a
72Lumbar PunctureE2 5b *
73Slip DiscE1 5b
74Epic-duralE2 5c
75My Own TrumpetE2 5c
76The Pretentious Bristolian AffairVS 4b
77The Bristolian AffairVS 4b
78TobleroneE1 5b
79TruffleHS 4b
80Om PuriVS 4c
81Away with the FaeriesVS 4b
82Heaven Can WaitHS 4b
83Blue Nose, Blue ToesVD
84Bonner's RouteHVD
85Gatto sul Tetto.S 4a
86The Naked Civil ServantE1 5b
87Aerie Faerie NonsenseVS 4c
88The Early WormHVS 4c
89Fairy LitesHS 4b
90TinkerbellE1 5c
91Standing on the Shoulders of MolesS
92Standing on the Shoulders of MoronsVD
93Harman's TreeVS 4b
94Cassini DivisionE4 5c *
95Moving TargetE3 5c ***
96The Darkened RoomE3 5c
97The Darkened Room VariationE3 5c
98First UpS 4a
99Back in BusinessE2 5b
100Senile Taff CornerHVS 5a
101Senile Taff Corner Direct StartE1 5b
102Withy CrackHVS 5a **
103Bad to the BoneE1 5b *
104BonerE3 5c
105WessexyE2 5b
106Who's Yer (Biological) Daddy?VS 4c *
107Four Paw DriveE3 5c *
108The Hillwithy ConnectionE1 5a
109Bramble WhineVS 4c *
110The MutantE4 6a *
111Le FreakE1 5b
112PeanutsHVS 5a
113Lunar LandscapeVS 4b *
114PuebloVD
115Divided SmearsVS 5a
116Ash Tree WallVS 4c
117CavemanVS 5a *
118Jiggery PokeryVS 5a *
119Glacial Point DirectE4 5c *
120MisdirectionE3 5c
121Glacial PointE4 5c **
122Slight of HandE2 5c *
123Rain Rain RainE4 6a
124Lorna's LunchS 4a
125Real Men do Eat QuicheS 4a **
126Six Little Fingers and Six Little ToesVS 4b
127Pocket Polka (alternative finish)HVS 5a
128Pocket PolkaS 4a
129Jive Talkin'E1 5b *
130TswettE1 5b
131Minute WaltzVD
132Last Tango in OakhillE2 5b *
133Strictly BallroomE1 5b *
134Dan's DanceE1 5b
135RocketVS 4c
136Ender's GameE4 5c
137Songs from the ShedVS 4c
138Pocket PiranhaE6 6b
139Medicinal BreadVS 4c
140And The Rest Is F.L.Y.VS 4b
141The Randy ReceptionistXS 4a
142The Bastard Lovechild Of Henry JacksonXS 4a
143Twa CorbiesVS 4c
144No TheaHVS 4b
145Death WishVS 4a
146RIP Keef the Kittin, Poor lil' BuggerE1 5b
147Capability BrownE2 5b
148Wee BrownieE1 5b
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer bpmclimb

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Strike that last comment. There is a new lock but you now have to line up the combination against the black line NOT the centre line.
perrinr - 27/Oct/14
I visited today Saturday 25 Oct and there is a new padlock and combination.
perrinr - 25/Oct/14
Please note that the climber in the Epic-dural pic has strayed too far left near the top of the lower slab. In general, there seems to be some (understandable) doubt about the exact line of both this route and Lumbar Puncture. I've amended the route descriptions to (hopefully) make things a little clearer.
bpmclimb - 08/Sep/14
Just be bloody careful, it's all loose as f***!
GBurton - 09/Aug/14
one of the best crags iv been to. helmets are a must due to the loose nature of the rock in some areas, however this will improve with a little more traffic. i love how quiet this place is. on an average day you will have the quarry to yourself and make sure you take sun cream as there very little protction from the sun.
Tom Harper - 20/Jun/14
I love Fairy Cave. Yes, be careful of loose rock; yes, park well off the road. Gradings in the guide for me are not always spot on, agree that Smell the Glove is more like E2, but apart from this I find climbs tend to be over-graded if anything e.g. Life in Limbo, The Tory... A lovely place to hang out for me - very quiet location, lots of birds for company, nice sunsets, good for trad adventures...
Tristypants - 14/May/14
Many routes here rely on sandstone concretions. These are soft and easily broken, the damage near the start of Rob's crack evidence of this. In many soft sandstone areas, Harrisons for example, it is recognised that no climbing should take place for a day or two after rain to minimise rock damage. This doesn't apply to all FCQ but people should consider avoiding routes like 4 Steps... or Stepping Out until they have had a chance to dry completely.
duncan - 16/Oct/13
Black spot Tracy??, really?? The whole bloody quarry is potentially lethal. Brian had a serious accident just scrambling to the very popular Bad to The Bone. Stanage it is not!!
The Pylon King - 12/Oct/13
Just added a FCQ "Top 20" Ticklist to UKC- based around the 14 climbs included in the CC South West Select Guide Vol. 1, and adding these 6 others: Smell the Glove E1 Stepping Out E3 Back Off E2 Talk to the Hand VS Halfway to Kansas HS Jive Talkin' E1 Complete list: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=656
The Ivanator - 29/Jul/13
Went to FCQ on Monday night - witnessed an accident on Fairy Lite - it is horrendously loose (why no black spot in the guide, Brian??) - belayer pulling ropes up dislodged a block (microwave size) which hit the second on the ground - he was walking wounded back to the car (if it had fallen from much further up i don't think he would have been walking anywhere!) - after the winter be careful there as there will be lots of loose stuff, especially on the newer developed areas as they won't have had much traffic previously.
TraceyR - 05/Jun/13
Be wary of friction with the local youth who like to hang out here just as much as the climbers. On one occasion I have had my car vandalised and on another a very unpleasant confrontation with a couple of ASBO dirt bike riders looking for trouble.
GBurton - 06/Aug/12
FCQ grades are now amended here in the UKC database to reflect those in the new guidebook. Sorry if that has produced any unwanted effects in logbooks!
bpmclimb - 11/Jun/12
New FCQ guidebook now available.
bpmclimb - 24/May/12
Where can I find descriptions for the new routes?
Tom F Harding - 19/Mar/12
UPDATE: several of the newer routes have now had a second lead ascent. Routes that remain unrepeated include: Dirty Nightingale E1, Pimlico E3, One Leg Over E3, Stuff that Works E2, Ender's Game E4, No Thea HVS.
bpmclimb - 15/Jan/12
A new guidebook is being prepared, which will be a stand-alone booklet covering FCQ. The following new routes are in need of a second lead ascent, to confirm the grade and allow their entry into the new guidebook without a dagger. Foldawaydildo VS 4c Dirty Nightingale E1 5b Pimlico E3 5c Dolly Dimple E1 5a One Leg Over E3 5c Stuff That Works E2 5c Talk to the Hand VS 4c The Early Worm HVS 4c Ender's Game E4 5c Capability Brown E2 5b Wee Brownie E2 5b
bpmclimb - 14/May/11
As of 13th July, there is access thanks to the BMC. There is a combination lock on the gate however, but to get the code you need to email Ian. See the BMC website for more :)
stuntsbyjon - 18/Jul/10
Went there mid Sep and saw the fence. Serious amount of money spent to keep people out. According to BMC, the landowner is trying to keep out motorbikes but has an access agreement with cavers. As BMC is working on our behalf, should we really be scaling the fence and angering the landowner?? Not in my opinion... leave it for a few months until we have an agreement in place.
Freddie 1 - 17/Sep/09
A nice mix of trad grades here, but make sure you either check the logs on UKC or have a good examination before you climb some of them - there are a few that are loose beyond belief. Some cracking slab climbs in the VS-E2 range. Doesnt suffer from much seepage. Agree that some of the descents are a bit "atmospheric", frequently abseiling down is the best option
jamespilgrim - 26/Jul/09
Fairy cave is great. Climbing is about adventure and it ticks all the boxes for me! I know most of the routes are overgraded, but i'm quite able to grade them myself. This crag is 40 minutes from home and a serious place, but my kids climb here and love it.
bazzag - 17/Dec/08
It is just a modern quarry, don't expect great things, but Lumbar puncture was a good if not slightly confusing line and Balch's slide is fun on the grade. The higher starred routes on the glacis look solid also but it rained!
John_Warner - 08/Jul/08
This is an awesome venue with some really good slab climbs. I would warn people about parking out on the road though. I climbed there yesterday and parked my car behind others on the side of the road. After a few hours we could hear a horn being sounded from the road so I returned to my car to find a huge truck needing to get past. I had left enough room for a car or small lorry to get past but had not envisaged that the lane would be used by articulated trucks! Make sure cars are parked well of the road to prevent your climbing being interupted by having to move them.
Peter - 15/Jun/06
Poped across from Salisbury yesterday for the day, at last a crag nearby that can be done in an evening. We started unpacking our gear then it started raining, so we poped into Shepton Mallet for a coffee and came back a couple of hours later and it was bone dry. Excellent place and a good range of climbs with no polish. It could do with some more traffic though there is alot of loose stuff around, but no worse than climbing in Swange. The Glacis area is a good introduction.
Rick Nash - 30/May/06
Didn't think the stuff on The Glacis was hugely overgraded, but soft touch - yeah. Slight of Hand is a couple of 5b (maybe v. low 5c) moves with definite deckout potential. Seems like e2 to me. Robs Crack is spot on for a VS. Worth a couple of visits at least.
SARS - 13/Jul/05
Oh, and the locals are apparently friendly too! ;o)
BenP - 20/Apr/05
A good fun place, but wear a lid - it's still fairy 'fresh' in the grand scheme of things. Stuff on the Glacis is usually pretty overgraded (especially the RH side), and Rob's Crack is way overhyped. Some routes are beginning to show early signs of polish. Still a fair few routes to be had if cheesy death is what you're after...
James Jackson - 03/Feb/05
great little crag with some very overgraded routes. Lumbar puncture is nice but only E1. Robs crack and four steps to heaven are great, the latter is only E2 5B. Whithy crack is good too but not for long!!! The routes on the glacis are all a real soft touch. Nice to be on it instead of under it though.
robbie warke - 24/Aug/04
Take care, still a fair bit of loose rock around.
BenP - 12/May/04
Stay clear of Harman's Tree as it is a terrible route. Rob's crack was originally given the strange grade of HS 5a but I think VS 4b is much more realistic. I would also like to nominate this as a three star route, I know that it is in a grotty quarry but I climbed this route yesterday and is is beautiful for every move of it's 100 feet. Just get down there and do it . [Unknown]
(Unknown) - 17/Apr/03
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 08/Sep/2014
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