one of the best crags iv been to. helmets are a must due to the loose nature of the rock in some areas, however this will improve with a little more traffic. i love how quiet this place is. on an average day you will have the quarry to yourself and make sure you take sun cream as there very little protction from the sun.
Tom Harper - 20/Jun/14
I love Fairy Cave. Yes, be careful of loose rock; yes, park well off the road. Gradings in the guide for me are not always spot on, agree that Smell the Glove is more like E2, but apart from this I find climbs tend to be over-graded if anything e.g. Life in Limbo, The Tory...
A lovely place to hang out for me - very quiet location, lots of birds for company, nice sunsets, good for trad adventures...
Tristypants - 14/May/14
Many routes here rely on sandstone concretions. These are soft and easily broken, the damage near the start of Rob's crack evidence of this. In many soft sandstone areas, Harrisons for example, it is recognised that no climbing should take place for a day or two after rain to minimise rock damage. This doesn't apply to all FCQ but people should consider
avoiding routes like 4 Steps... or Stepping Out until they have had a chance to dry completely.
duncan - 16/Oct/13
Black spot Tracy??, really?? The whole bloody quarry is potentially lethal. Brian had a serious accident just scrambling to the very popular Bad to The Bone. Stanage it is not!!
The Pylon King - 12/Oct/13
Just added a FCQ "Top 20" Ticklist to UKC- based around the 14 climbs included in the CC South West Select Guide Vol. 1, and adding these 6 others:
Smell the Glove E1
Stepping Out E3
Back Off E2
Talk to the Hand VS
Halfway to Kansas HS
Jive Talkin' E1
Complete list: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=656
The Ivanator - 29/Jul/13
Went to FCQ on Monday night - witnessed an accident on Fairy Lite - it is horrendously loose (why no black spot in the guide, Brian??) - belayer pulling ropes up dislodged a block (microwave size) which hit the second on the ground - he was walking wounded back to the car (if it had fallen from much further up i don't think he would have been walking anywhere!) - after the winter be careful there as there will be lots of loose stuff, especially on the newer developed areas as they won't have had much traffic previously.
TraceyR - 05/Jun/13
Be wary of friction with the local youth who like to hang out here just as much as the climbers. On one occasion I have had my car vandalised and on another a very unpleasant confrontation with a couple of ASBO dirt bike riders looking for trouble.
GBurton - 06/Aug/12
FCQ grades are now amended here in the UKC database to reflect those in the new guidebook. Sorry if that has produced any unwanted effects in logbooks!
bpmclimb - 11/Jun/12
New FCQ guidebook now available.
bpmclimb - 24/May/12
Where can I find descriptions for the new routes?
Tom F Harding - 19/Mar/12
UPDATE: several of the newer routes have now had a second lead ascent. Routes that remain unrepeated include: Dirty Nightingale E1, Pimlico E3, One Leg Over E3, Stuff that Works E2, Ender's Game E4, No Thea HVS.
bpmclimb - 15/Jan/12
A new guidebook is being prepared, which will be a stand-alone booklet covering FCQ.
The following new routes are in need of a second lead ascent, to confirm the grade and allow their entry into the new guidebook without a dagger.
Foldawaydildo VS 4c
Dirty Nightingale E1 5b
Pimlico E3 5c
Dolly Dimple E1 5a
One Leg Over E3 5c
Stuff That Works E2 5c
Talk to the Hand VS 4c
The Early Worm HVS 4c
Ender's Game E4 5c
Capability Brown E2 5b
Wee Brownie E2 5b
bpmclimb - 14/May/11
As of 13th July, there is access thanks to the BMC. There is a combination lock on the gate however, but to get the code you need to email Ian. See the BMC website for more :)
stuntsbyjon - 18/Jul/10
Went there mid Sep and saw the fence. Serious amount of money spent to keep people out. According to BMC, the landowner is trying to keep out motorbikes but has an access agreement with cavers. As BMC is working on our behalf, should we really be scaling the fence and angering the landowner?? Not in my opinion... leave it for a few months until we have an agreement in place.
Freddie 1 - 17/Sep/09
A nice mix of trad grades here, but make sure you either check the logs on UKC or have a good examination before you climb some of them - there are a few that are loose beyond belief. Some cracking slab climbs in the VS-E2 range. Doesnt suffer from much seepage. Agree that some of the descents are a bit "atmospheric", frequently abseiling down is the best option
jamespilgrim - 26/Jul/09
Fairy cave is great. Climbing is about adventure and it ticks all the boxes for me! I know most of the routes are overgraded, but i'm quite able to grade them myself. This crag is 40 minutes from home and a serious place, but my kids climb here and love it.
bazzag - 17/Dec/08
It is just a modern quarry, don't expect great things, but Lumbar puncture was a good if not slightly confusing line and Balch's slide is fun on the grade. The higher starred routes on the glacis look solid also but it rained!
John_Warner - 08/Jul/08
This is an awesome venue with some really good slab climbs. I would warn people about parking out on the road though. I climbed there yesterday and parked my car behind others on the side of the road. After a few hours we could hear a horn being sounded from the road so I returned to my car to find a huge truck needing to get past. I had left enough room for a car or small lorry to get past but had not envisaged that the lane would be used by articulated trucks! Make sure cars are parked well of the road to prevent your climbing being interupted by having to move them.
Peter - 15/Jun/06
Poped across from Salisbury yesterday for the day, at last a crag nearby that can be done in an evening.
We started unpacking our gear then it started raining, so we poped into Shepton Mallet for a coffee and came back a couple of hours later and it was bone dry.
Excellent place and a good range of climbs with no polish. It could do with some more traffic though there is alot of loose stuff around, but no worse than climbing in Swange.
The Glacis area is a good introduction.
Rick Nash - 30/May/06
Didn't think the stuff on The Glacis was hugely overgraded, but soft touch - yeah. Slight of Hand is a couple of 5b (maybe v. low 5c) moves with definite deckout potential. Seems like e2 to me.
Robs Crack is spot on for a VS.
Worth a couple of visits at least.
SARS - 13/Jul/05
Oh, and the locals are apparently friendly too! ;o)
BenP - 20/Apr/05
A good fun place, but wear a lid - it's still fairy 'fresh' in the grand scheme of things. Stuff on the Glacis is usually pretty overgraded (especially the RH side), and Rob's Crack is way overhyped. Some routes are beginning to show early signs of polish. Still a fair few routes to be had if cheesy death is what you're after...
James Jackson - 03/Feb/05
great little crag with some very overgraded routes. Lumbar puncture is nice but only E1. Robs crack and four steps to heaven are great, the latter is only E2 5B. Whithy crack is good too but not for long!!! The routes on the glacis are all a real soft touch. Nice to be on it instead of under it though.
robbie warke - 24/Aug/04
Take care, still a fair bit of loose rock around.
BenP - 12/May/04
Stay clear of Harman's Tree as it is a terrible route. Rob's crack was originally given the strange grade of HS 5a but I think VS 4b is much more realistic. I would also like to nominate this as a three star route, I know that it is in a grotty quarry but I climbed this route yesterday and is is beautiful for every move of it's 100 feet. Just get down there and do it . [Unknown]
(Unknown) - 17/Apr/03