UKC

Climbs 90
Rocktype Trachyte
Altitude 144m a.s.l
Faces S

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Evening climbing at Traprain Law © planetmarshall

Crag features

This small crag is perfect for beginners, an easy half-day or summers evening, offering interesting climbing in the lower to middle grades. It dries quickly and climbing can be had at anytime of the year. The routes are relatively short, well protected and the non-serious feel of the crag is pleasing.

North Quarry - The North Quarry has some recorded climbs and now some sport routes.  The new sports routes stretch some 60m in length. Best efforts have been made to remove loose rock from newly established routes. Helmets are advised for all parties climbing and extreme caution on rock stability outside those areas!

New Routes

The crag is owned by East Lothian Council. They have asked that anyone wishing to carry out further bolting contact them for permission first. There are certain sensitive areas that they are keen to avoid new routes appearing to prevent unintentional damage to archaeology, wildlife or the landscape. 

Restricted Access

South Face Access

Take great care when parking at the bottom not block the road, nor access to fields. If following the line of the old wall which goes through the field to the style, WALK in SINGLE FILE and DO NOT spread out over the crop field.

North Quarry Access

There is a car park & seating area on the C105, recommend parking here and (e.g. if in the car park and facing away from the Law, head right) walking about 5m from the edge of the car park then hopping the fence (you'll want to hop somewhere between the car park and the next lay-by), walk up the verge to the next fence and turn left and follow that trail, you'll eventually come into the west side of the quarry. Take care as there's a lot of large, loose rock and rusted sheet metal.

If coming to rappel from top of quarry, park at lay-by slightly further down the C105 cross the road and hop over at the stile then walk up the hill to the top of the quarry.

Nesting birds - No climbing 31st March - 31st July
Access to routes in the North Quarry is not permitted between these dates due to nesting birds. Care must also be taken to not disturb birds in March before the ban begins.

No new bolted routes without the permission of East Lothian Council.

Hot climbing today. Grt easy parking and path.
Nick_Scots - 23/May/15
was here a couple of week ago, and either lost or had taken a full pack of micro nuts, did anyone see them? cheers
boab212 - 09/Jul/14
Wonderful training crag, was here after a long hiatus and the routes gave a perfect warm up on to some tricky problems on the upper mid grades. Some moss but otherwise v dry. Easy to find as long as you park on the south side of the law.
Matt Evans SE - 23/Jun/13
A lovely crag for a gentle evenings climbing, polish is not bad at all (especially for those used to the delights of South Quarry)
edinburgerboulderer53 - 26/Oct/11
MacNiven's Left hand variant and Wobble are superb; easily worth ** and quite hard. Great rock. didn't see any scratch marks from Ice climbing though but what pr*cks would do that anyway?!
Ian Jones - 22/Sep/08
Maybe I'm a bit soft, but an hour's walk to an outcrop seems to defeat the purpose of having outcrops! You'd get to the bottom of most routes in the 'Coe faster!
Jamie B. - 10/Aug/07
I agree that access is not impossible by public transport.. Why, the bus stop at the bottom of east linton is right next to the access path, and it is a lovely walk along the river, past Hales Castle and up the track.. Easily navigable as well, since you can see traparin itself from pretty much anywhere.
Robfromcornwall - 19/Jan/07
Word up Mehmet! We did a crackin walk from east linton along the river, past the castle and round the back of the law in 45min..... why is it that climbers have such an aversion to walk ins? thgen spent 6hrs on the crags, walked backed the shorter route along the road and got a pint before goin home. beaut!
Neil Mackenzie - 16/Jun/06
I would just like to say going to Traprain Law on public transport isn't impossible at all. Get the bus to East Linton and it's an hour's walk along flat ground from there. If you're used to walking to mountain routes this shouldn't be a problem at all. Maybe I'm biased as if I didn't rely on public transport I'd never get to go climbing at the moment? It's worth going to but the polish can be an issue. mehmet
Mehmet Karatay - 15/Feb/06
A superb place for those with cars. Aggree entirely with Reuben.
Sam - 12/May/03
A lovely place... but I wouldn't even think about getting there on public transport. The polish is severe, and as such, the Hawkcraig's rough dolerite is probably better for beginners (and the gear's easier to spot). The outlook counts for a lot, but it can be exposed to the wind.
Reuben - 17/Mar/03
This is not a winter climbing venue but some clowns seem to have been treating it as one. There are scratches all over the place now.
Gordon - 27/Apr/02
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Climbs at this crag

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