Traprain Law

Climbs 68 – Rocktype Trachyte – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
This wee crag is perfect for beginners, an easy half-day or summers evening, offering interesting climbing in the lower to middle grades. Dries quickly and climbing can be had at anytime of the year.

The routes are relatively short, well protected and the non-serious feel of the crag is pleasing.

*Also home to the Most Polished routes in Scotland ?? [Scott D 7/02]

Approach notes
Take great care when parking at the bottom not block the road, nor access to fields.

Access update from the access officer - April 2013

"He(the farmers son) accepts that people have a right to get to the crags and has said that people can walk the original route, across the crops until a better route is created.

His intention is to build a car park at the bottom of the right of way at the west side of Traprain and for there to be a path from the car park to the crags. I am very pleased that this has been agreed, but I think it will be next year before he is able to start any work on it."

Having had a look this week (30/04/2013) please take care not to stray off the line of the old wall as there are crops planted across the full width of the field.

Guidebooks

Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 OVERHANG WALL  
2Flake 1S 41
3Flake 2D 53
4The Right EdgeVS 4c 37
5SteptoeS *212
6Moss GrooveVD 44
7The ShieldHVS 4c *16
8Down My StreetE1 5b 4
9Flake WallD 19
10Flake 3D 108
11Flake 4S 98
12TorqueHVS 5a 21
13Swingin'VS 5a 14
14Left EdgeS **446
15Via MacNivenVS 5a *210
16Via MacNiven VariationVS 4c *62
17WobbleVS 5a *136
18PigletHVS 5b **151
19Piglet's Not GayE1 5b *5
20BurpHVS 5a *186
21The ChuteE1 5b *75
22Great CornerS **561
23Great Corner (direct start)S 4c 70
24Sabre CutVS 5a **186
25StaircaseVD 193
26Slab and TickleHVS 5b 25
27Fake RouteS *319
28Cats PawHVS 5b 8
29FalsefaceS *141
30DeceptionVD 306
31Wheech's OverhangVS 5a *71
32Ripple RibS 17
33Ripple Rib DirectVS 4c 3
34Via DolorosaS 15
35The Western GirdleVS 5a *7
 LAMMER WALL  
37Retard AreteVS 5a 71
38The DirettissimaVS 4c *138
39Tiger WallHVS 5b *50
40The Vertical LadderVD *321
41Double StretchS *271
42Double Stretch - The Keystone VariationHS 21
43The M.S. RouteHS **276
44PinchHS *185
45Pinch VariationVS 5a 43
46BruteS 181
47PedestrianHS 55
48Spider Route 1S 103
49Spider Route 2S 95
50ShuffleVD 109
51Floggle ToggleVD 73
52ParabolaS *13
53Queue CornerS *71
54Turf TrundleVS 4b 6
55Flakers CushionVS 3
 HEXAGON WALL  
57Hexagon WallVD *111
58Hexagon EdgeHS 4a 2
59DangleHVS 5a *10
60Sod DanglingHS 5
61FrodoHS 4
62TippE2 6a 1
63Beatle CrackE1 5c *2
64Hanging CrackHVS 5a 2
65UtangVD 4
66Pip's PillarVS 4b 2
 DIAMOND WALL  
68Easy TicketS 1
69The FoxE3 6a  
70Black DiamondVS  
71Diamond BackE1 5a  
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mike-W-99

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Hot climbing today. Grt easy parking and path.
Scott_vzr - 23/May/15
was here a couple of week ago, and either lost or had taken a full pack of micro nuts, did anyone see them? cheers
boab212 - 09/Jul/14
Wonderful training crag, was here after a long hiatus and the routes gave a perfect warm up on to some tricky problems on the upper mid grades. Some moss but otherwise v dry. Easy to find as long as you park on the south side of the law.
c4tch - 23/Jun/13
A lovely crag for a gentle evenings climbing, polish is not bad at all (especially for those used to the delights of South Quarry)
edinburgerboulderer53 - 26/Oct/11
MacNiven's Left hand variant and Wobble are superb; easily worth ** and quite hard. Great rock. didn't see any scratch marks from Ice climbing though but what pr*cks would do that anyway?!
Ian Jones - 22/Sep/08
Maybe I'm a bit soft, but an hour's walk to an outcrop seems to defeat the purpose of having outcrops! You'd get to the bottom of most routes in the 'Coe faster!
Jamie B. - 10/Aug/07
I agree that access is not impossible by public transport.. Why, the bus stop at the bottom of east linton is right next to the access path, and it is a lovely walk along the river, past Hales Castle and up the track.. Easily navigable as well, since you can see traparin itself from pretty much anywhere.
Robfromcornwall - 19/Jan/07
Word up Mehmet! We did a crackin walk from east linton along the river, past the castle and round the back of the law in 45min..... why is it that climbers have such an aversion to walk ins? thgen spent 6hrs on the crags, walked backed the shorter route along the road and got a pint before goin home. beaut!
Neil Mackenzie - 16/Jun/06
I would just like to say going to Traprain Law on public transport isn't impossible at all. Get the bus to East Linton and it's an hour's walk along flat ground from there. If you're used to walking to mountain routes this shouldn't be a problem at all. Maybe I'm biased as if I didn't rely on public transport I'd never get to go climbing at the moment? It's worth going to but the polish can be an issue. mehmet
Mehmet Karatay - 15/Feb/06
A superb place for those with cars. Aggree entirely with Reuben.
Sam - 12/May/03
A lovely place... but I wouldn't even think about getting there on public transport. The polish is severe, and as such, the Hawkcraig's rough dolerite is probably better for beginners (and the gear's easier to spot). The outlook counts for a lot, but it can be exposed to the wind.
Reuben - 17/Mar/03
This is not a winter climbing venue but some clowns seem to have been treating it as one. There are scratches all over the place now.
Gordon - 27/Apr/02