Traprain Law

Climbs 67 – Rocktype Trachyte – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
This wee crag is perfect for beginners, an easy half-day or summers evening, offering interesting climbing in the lower to middle grades. Dries quickly and climbing can be had at anytime of the year.

The routes are relatively short, well protected and the non-serious feel of the crag is pleasing.

*Also home to the Most Polished routes in Scotland ?? [Scott D 7/02]

Access notes
Take great care when parking at the bottom not block the road, nor access to fields.

Access update from the access officer - April 2013

"He(the farmers son) accepts that people have a right to get to the crags and has said that people can walk the original route, across the crops until a better route is created.

His intention is to build a car park at the bottom of the right of way at the west side of Traprain and for there to be a path from the car park to the crags. I am very pleased that this has been agreed, but I think it will be next year before he is able to start any work on it."

Having had a look this week (30/04/2013) please take care not to stray off the line of the old wall as there are crops planted across the full width of the field.

Guidebooks

Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 OVERHANG WALL 
2Flake 1S
3Flake 2D
4The Right EdgeVS 4c
5SteptoeS *
6Moss GrooveVD
7The ShieldHVS 4c *
8Down My StreetE1 5b
9Flake WallD
10Flake 3D
11Flake 4S
12TorqueHVS 5a
13Swingin'VS 5a
14Left EdgeS **
15Via MacNivenVS 5a *
16Via MacNiven VariationVS 4c *
17WobbleVS 5a *
18PigletHVS 5b **
19Piglet's Not GayE1 5b *
20BurpHVS 5a *
21The ChuteE1 5b *
22Great CornerS **
23Great Corner (direct start)S 4c
24Sabre CutVS 5a **
25StaircaseVD
26Slab and TickleHVS 5b
27Fake RouteS *
28Cats PawHVS 5b
29FalsefaceS *
30DeceptionVD
31Wheech's OverhangVS 5a *
32Ripple RibS
33Ripple Rib DirectVS 4c
34Via DolorosaS
35The Western GirdleVS 5a *
 LAMMER WALL 
37Retard AreteVS 5a
38The DirettissimaVS 4c *
39Tiger WallHVS 5b *
40The Vertical LadderVD *
41Double StretchS *
42Double Stretch - The Keystone VariationHS
43The M.S. RouteHS **
44PinchHS *
45Pinch VariationVS 5a
46BruteS
47PedestrianHS
48Spider Route 1S
49Spider Route 2S
50ShuffleVD
51Floggle ToggleVD
52ParabolaS *
53Queue CornerS *
54Turf TrundleVS 4b
55Flakers CushionVS
 HEXAGON WALL 
57Hexagon WallVD *
58Hexagon EdgeHS 4a
59DangleHVS 5a *
60Sod DanglingHS
61FrodoHS
62TippE2 6a
63Beatle CrackE1 5c *
64Hanging CrackHVS 5a
65UtangVD
66Pip's PillarVS 4b
 DIAMOND WALL 
68Easy TicketS
69The FoxE3 6a
70Black DiamondVS
71Diamond BackE1 5a
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer prog99

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
was here a couple of week ago, and either lost or had taken a full pack of micro nuts, did anyone see them? cheers
boab212 - 09/Jul/14
Wonderful training crag, was here after a long hiatus and the routes gave a perfect warm up on to some tricky problems on the upper mid grades. Some moss but otherwise v dry. Easy to find as long as you park on the south side of the law.
c4tch - 23/Jun/13
A lovely crag for a gentle evenings climbing, polish is not bad at all (especially for those used to the delights of South Quarry)
edinburgerboulderer53 - 26/Oct/11
MacNiven's Left hand variant and Wobble are superb; easily worth ** and quite hard. Great rock. didn't see any scratch marks from Ice climbing though but what pr*cks would do that anyway?!
Ian Jones - 22/Sep/08
Maybe I'm a bit soft, but an hour's walk to an outcrop seems to defeat the purpose of having outcrops! You'd get to the bottom of most routes in the 'Coe faster!
Jamie B. - 10/Aug/07
I agree that access is not impossible by public transport.. Why, the bus stop at the bottom of east linton is right next to the access path, and it is a lovely walk along the river, past Hales Castle and up the track.. Easily navigable as well, since you can see traparin itself from pretty much anywhere.
Robfromcornwall - 19/Jan/07
Word up Mehmet! We did a crackin walk from east linton along the river, past the castle and round the back of the law in 45min..... why is it that climbers have such an aversion to walk ins? thgen spent 6hrs on the crags, walked backed the shorter route along the road and got a pint before goin home. beaut!
Neil Mackenzie - 16/Jun/06
I would just like to say going to Traprain Law on public transport isn't impossible at all. Get the bus to East Linton and it's an hour's walk along flat ground from there. If you're used to walking to mountain routes this shouldn't be a problem at all. Maybe I'm biased as if I didn't rely on public transport I'd never get to go climbing at the moment? It's worth going to but the polish can be an issue. mehmet
Mehmet Karatay - 15/Feb/06
A superb place for those with cars. Aggree entirely with Reuben.
Sam - 12/May/03
A lovely place... but I wouldn't even think about getting there on public transport. The polish is severe, and as such, the Hawkcraig's rough dolerite is probably better for beginners (and the gear's easier to spot). The outlook counts for a lot, but it can be exposed to the wind.
Reuben - 17/Mar/03
This is not a winter climbing venue but some clowns seem to have been treating it as one. There are scratches all over the place now.
Gordon - 27/Apr/02
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 02/May/2013

Photo Gallery

Directory

Find Listings near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)
Edinburgh, WEST LOTHIAN
Dedicated centre.
"The UK (and world's?) largest climbing wall. Set in a covered quarry, the walls are current state of the art, with five monster surfaces(up to 28 metres high)..."
eica-ratho.co.uk