Climbs 143
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces S

The Grasshopper Project © Kevin Moroney

Crag features

Superb climbing on clean rock in a fantastic scenic location. Some absolute classic routes especially in the VS/HVS range.

See http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Glendalough

for more details.

Descent: Main Face - Chains at top of Prelude Nightmare 60m abseil just gets you down. Alternative is cable at top of Expectancy 20m abseil + scramble. If you are bailing from Expectancy you can abseil the line of Deirdre to avoid the worst of the scramble.

East Wing - Tat at top of Aisling Arete/Celia 30m abseil back to Forest Ledge. Scramble down to top of Forest Rhapsody P2, tat for 35m abseil(30m is ok as you can scramble down rest)

Approach notes

Located about 30 miles (50km) from Dublin City Centre.

Glendalough can be reached by following the Bray by-pass (N/M11), you can also reach the M11 by taking the M50 southbound and its southward continuation as far as Kilmacanogue from where the R755 is followed through Roundwood to Laragh before taking the road westwards into the valley to the car-park just below the Upper Lake. 4 Euro to park for the day at the Upper Car Park(Note Closing Time). Alternatively take St. Kevin's Bus. Take the Miners Path for a 45 minute walk up the valley to the Rockfaces on the North side of the lake. Passed the Old Mining Ruins, to start of zigzag path upwards. Leave the main path, and scramble up the rough track to the faces. Free parking at the Visitor Centre, but a longer 1hr 10min walk in.

Glendalough is a fantastic spot for climbers of any ability. The multipitch routes on the main face are well protected and fairly easy to follow as well as being fair for the grade. The shorter single pitch routes are fantastic, especially with the abseil points at the top of the twin buttresses. On a good day you can pretty much do all of the routes on one area. The local youth hostel (Glendalough) is close by and good value for money as well as the campsite slightly further away at Roundwood. Both are very busy from May onwards and advance booking may be required. The only drawback on a still, warm day is the MIDGES!!!
Michael Smith - 13/Feb/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Girdle Traverse Of Twin Buttress
-
VS  
 Far West Buttress 
3When Gorse Was Man's Best Friend
-
VS 4c  
4Felix Infernum
-
HVS 5b  
5Running Blind
-
HVS 5b  
6Jungle Journey
-
HS 3c,4b  
7Eden Wall
-
HS 4b,4a  
8Garden Of Eden
-
VS 4c,3c 6
9Cracks On The Garden Of Eden
-
VS 4c ***42
10Snakebite
-
E1 5b 1
11Adam's Apple
-
VD 3
12Arividerci
-
VS 4b 2
13Escapade
-
E3 6b * 
14Stray DogE1 5b **11
 Expectancy Slab 
16Variant
-
HS 4b 4
17GeorgiaHS 4b 13
18LassitudeVS 4c *30
19Expectancy
-
VD 3c ***46
20Adam's Rib
-
HS 4b *20
21Solitaire
-
HS 4b 6
 Main Face 
23Deirdre
-
VS 4c,3c **30
24Caroline
-
E4 5c ** 
25Love Never Dies
-
E1 5b  
26FfollyS 3c,4a, 6
27The NestVS 4c,4a,  
28Caliph
-
VS 4c  
29Quartz GullyHS 4b ***60
30Holly Tree ShuntVD 3c,3c 17
31Three In One
-
VS 4a,3c, 5
32Prelude-SpéirbheanVS 4c **19
33Prelude-NightmareVS 4c ***79
34Vagabond
-
E1 5b,4b, 2
35Scimitar CrackHVS 5a **33
36FanfareVS 4c *16
37Spillikin-Fanfare-SpéirbheanVS 4c ***4
38Spillikin-Fanfare-NightmareVS 4c ***2
39Spillikin Ridge
-
E3 4c,5c ***17
40Bathsheba
-
E5 6b *** 
41The Wake
-
E5 6b *** 
42SarcophagusHVS 5a ***65
43Spillikin Arete
-
E5 6b  
44Soothsayer
-
E5 6a ** 
45The Far Side
-
E4 6a ** 
46Left Wall Crack
-
E1 5b,5b **3
47Great Corner
-
VS 4b,4b, 1
48Aphrodite
-
VS 4b,4a, 1
49Caol Uisce
-
S 3c,4a,  
50Lag Mara
-
VS 4c  
 Acorn Buttress 
52Frigg
-
VD  
53Out On A Limb
-
HVS 5b  
54New Beginnings
-
HVS 5b  
55Slipstream
-
HVS 5b *6
56Amygdala
-
HVS 5a 1
57Acorn Crack
-
HS 4b *29
58Vortex
-
VS 4c 7
59Inferno
-
S 4a 16
60Provo
-
VS 4c *57
61Facilis Descensus
-
HS 4b *48
62Revocare Gradum
-
S 4a 10
63Dig For Fire
-
HVS 5b  
 East Wing - Forest Ledge 
65Autumn Leaf
-
E4 6a **1
66Bruce's Corner
-
VS 4c **5
67Elbow Room
-
HVS 5b  
68Mica Wall
-
VD  
69JackeyVS 4c **16
70CeliaVS 4c ***16
71Rock Music
-
VS 4c,4b 2
72Aisling ArêteVS 4c 22
73Concrete Wallflower
-
E1 5b **20
74LetheVS 4c **17
75Lethe Direct
-
HVS 5b *1
 East Wing 
77Forest RhapsodyVS 4c,4a, **44
78Photo Finish
-
E2 5c *2
79Ifreann
-
E1 4b,5a, *1
80Ifreann DirectHVS 5b ***17
81Ifreann Arete
-
E1 5b **1
82LaraE1 5b 3
83Bike No SaddleVS 5a *3
84Boru
-
E1 5b *2
85Ruth's Chimney
-
S 3c,4a, 5
86Hogh Profile
-
E2 5c,4c ** 
87Sebastian
-
E1 4a,5b **2
88Hemlock And After
-
E4 6b ** 
89Great North Road
-
E3 3c,5c, ** 
90Contrabrand
-
E3 5c ** 
91Shanghai Corner
-
E3 5c,4a **1
92Rock Island Line
-
E2 4c,6a *1
93Dream Of Fair To Middling Women
-
E1 4c, 5b * 
94Goulding Route
-
VS 4c, 4b  
95Graceland
-
E4 6a ** 
96Setanta
-
E1 5b **11
 Witality Slab 
98Wim
-
M  
99Wigour
-
D  
100Witality
-
S  
 Upper Cliffs 
102SCULPTURESQUE
-
HS 4b,4a  
103LAND'S END
-
HS 4b  
104SILENT MOVIEE3 5c,5c ** 
105LIFELINE
-
E4 6a, 5b ***1
106DEADLINES
-
E4 6a  
107Cornish Rhapsody
-
E1 5a,5b, ***6
108CORNELLOW
-
VS 3c,4a,  
109FreebirdHVS 5a,4c, **2
110BLUE MOON
-
E3 5a,6b ** 
111Cuchulainn Groove
-
HVS 4a,4c **3
112ALIEN'S WAY
-
VS 4b,4c,  
113FISSURE MacUALGAIRG
-
E1 5b * 
114LITTLE EIGER
-
VS 4c  
115Scramble
-
S  
116HOME GROWERS
-
VS 4c,4b  
117XANTHOS
-
VS 4c  
118HIGH EXPOSURE
-
HVS 5a ** 
 Hobnail Buttress 
120Woodside
-
VS 4c  
121Pyramid Route
-
HS 3c,4a **14
122Clinker
-
VD  
123Mugger
-
S 4a 2
124Using Nomadic Types
-
HS 4b 1
125Hobnail Chimney
-
HS 3c,4b *13
126Slag
-
VD  
127Twin Cracks
-
S 5
128Pine Tree Cracks
-
S *12
129Slab And Cantilever
-
D 1
130Gealaras
-
D  
131Hobnail Slabs
-
HVS 5a 5
132Hobnail Groove
-
HVS 5b 3
133Hobnail Cracks
-
HVS 5b 3
134Coriver Youth
-
VS 4c  
 Valley Floor Bouldering 
136Andy's AreteV5 ***6
1372.4 Pascal's sit-startf7B ***3
138The Fin Sit-startf7B ***4
139The Egg SSf7B ***1
140Chillax Left
-
f7A **4
141The Cherryf7A ***1
142Egg Traversef6B+ 1
143The Nu Railsf6C 5
144Chillaxf6C 9
145B.B.Ef7A 4
146Chuppa Chubf6C+ 2
 Winter Climbing 
148Cliff GullyII/III  
149CascadeIII  
150Memories Of SnowIV  
151Cold DanceIV  
152Winter PalaceIV  
153Left-Hand WaterfallIV  
154Right-Hand WaterfallIV  
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