Glendalough (Ireland)

Climbs 143 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Superb climbing on clean rock in a fantastic scenic location. Some absolute classic routes especially in the VS/HVS range.

See http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Glendalough

for more details.

Descent: Main Face - Chains at top of Prelude Nightmare 60m abseil just gets you down. Alternative is cable at top of Expectancy 20m abseil + scramble. If you are bailing from Expectancy you can abseil the line of Deirdre to avoid the worst of the scramble.

East Wing - Tat at top of Aisling Arete/Celia 30m abseil back to Forest Ledge. Scramble down to top of Forest Rhapsody P2, tat for 35m abseil(30m is ok as you can scramble down rest)

Access notes
Located about 30 miles (50km) from Dublin City Centre.

Glendalough can be reached by following the Bray by-pass (N/M11), you can also reach the M11 by taking the M50 southbound and its southward continuation as far as Kilmacanogue from where the R755 is followed through Roundwood to Laragh before taking the road westwards into the valley to the car-park just below the Upper Lake. 4 Euro to park for the day at the Upper Car Park(Note Closing Time). Alternatively take St. Kevin's Bus. Take the Miners Path for a 45 minute walk up the valley to the Rockfaces on the North side of the lake. Passed the Old Mining Ruins, to start of zigzag path upwards. Leave the main path, and scramble up the rough track to the faces. Free parking at the Visitor Centre, but a longer 1hr 10min walk in.

Guidebooks
Wicklow Rock Climbing Guide (2009)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Girdle Traverse Of Twin ButtressVS  
 FAR WEST BUTTRESS  
3When Gorse Was Man's Best FriendVS 4c  
4Felix InfernumHVS 5b  
5Running BlindHVS 5b  
6Jungle JourneyHS 3c,4b  
7Eden WallHS 4b,4a  
8Garden Of EdenVS 4c,3c 4
9Cracks On The Garden Of EdenVS 4c ***35
10SnakebiteE1 5b 1
11Adam's AppleVD 2
12ArividerciVS 4b 1
13EscapadeE3 6b * 
14Stray DogE1 5b **9
 EXPECTANCY SLAB  
16VariantHS 4b 2
17GeorgiaHS 4b 11
18LassitudeVS 4c *27
19ExpectancyVD 3c ***39
20Adam's RibHS 4b *16
21SolitaireHS 4b 6
 MAIN FACE  
23DeirdreVS 4c,3c **25
24CarolineE4 5c ** 
25Love Never DiesE1 5b  
26FfollyS 3c,4a, 6
27The NestVS 4c,4a,  
28CaliphVS 4c  
29Quartz GullyHS 4b ***55
30Holly Tree ShuntVD 3c,3c 9
31Three In OneVS 4a,3c, 3
32Prelude-SpéirbheanVS 4c **13
33Prelude-NightmareVS 4c ***67
34VagabondE1 5b,4b, 1
35Scimitar CrackHVS 5a **21
36FanfareVS 4c *8
37Spillikin-Fanfare-SpéirbheanVS 4c ***3
38Spillikin-Fanfare-NightmareVS 4c ***2
39Spillikin RidgeE3 4c,5c ***13
40BathshebaE5 6b *** 
41The WakeE5 6b *** 
42SarcophagusHVS 5a ***42
43Spillikin AreteE5 6b  
44SoothsayerE5 6a ** 
45The Far SideE4 6a ** 
46Left Wall CrackE1 5b,5b **3
47Great CornerVS 4b,4b, 1
48AphroditeVS 4b,4a, 1
49Caol UisceS 3c,4a,  
50Lag MaraVS 4c  
 ACORN BUTTRESS  
52FriggVD  
53Out On A LimbHVS 5b  
54New BeginningsHVS 5b  
55SlipstreamHVS 5b *6
56AmygdalaHVS 5a 1
57Acorn CrackHS 4b *26
58VortexVS 4c 5
59InfernoS 4a 13
60ProvoVS 4c *49
61Facilis DescensusHS 4b *45
62Revocare GradumS 4a 10
63Dig For FireHVS 5b  
 EAST WING - FOREST LEDGE  
65Autumn LeafE4 6a **1
66Bruce's CornerVS 4c **4
67Elbow RoomHVS 5b  
68Mica WallVD  
69JackeyVS 4c **12
70CeliaVS 4c ***10
71Rock MusicVS 4c,4b 2
72Aisling ArêteVS 4c 14
73Concrete WallflowerE1 5b **9
74LetheVS 4c **14
75Lethe DirectHVS 5b *1
 EAST WING  
77Forest RhapsodyVS 4c,4a, **32
78Photo FinishE2 5c *1
79IfreannE1 4b,5a, *1
80Ifreann DirectHVS 5b ***11
81Ifreann AreteE1 5b ** 
82LaraE1 5b  
83Bike No SaddleVS 5a *1
84BoruE1 5b *1
85Ruth's ChimneyS 3c,4a, 3
86Hogh ProfileE2 5c,4c ** 
87SebastianE1 4a,5b **2
88Hemlock And AfterE4 6b ** 
89Great North RoadE3 3c,5c, ** 
90ContrabrandE3 5c ** 
91Shanghai CornerE3 5c,4a **1
92Rock Island LineE2 4c,6a *1
93Dream Of Fair To Middling WomenE1 4c, 5b * 
94Goulding RouteVS 4c, 4b  
95GracelandE4 6a ** 
96SetantaE1 5b **6
 WITALITY SLAB  
98WimM  
99WigourD  
100WitalityS  
 UPPER CLIFFS  
102SCULPTURESQUEHS 4b,4a  
103LAND'S ENDHS 4b  
104SILENT MOVIEE3 5c,5c ** 
105LIFELINEE4 6a, 5b *** 
106DEADLINESE4 6a  
107Cornish RhapsodyE1 5a,5b, ***6
108CORNELLOWVS 3c,4a,  
109FreebirdHVS 5a,4c, **2
110BLUE MOONE3 5a,6b ** 
111Cuchulainn GrooveHVS 4a,4c **3
112ALIEN'S WAYVS 4b,4c,  
113FISSURE MacUALGAIRGE1 5b * 
114LITTLE EIGERVS 4c  
115ScrambleS  
116HOME GROWERSVS 4c,4b  
117XANTHOSVS 4c  
118HIGH EXPOSUREHVS 5a ** 
 HOBNAIL BUTTRESS  
120WoodsideVS 4c  
121Pyramid RouteHS 3c,4a **12
122ClinkerVD  
123MuggerS 4a 1
124Using Nomadic TypesHS 4b 1
125Hobnail ChimneyHS 3c,4b *11
126SlagVD  
127Twin CracksS 5
128Pine Tree CracksS *11
129Slab And CantileverD 1
130GealarasD  
131Hobnail SlabsHVS 5a 3
132Hobnail GrooveHVS 5b 2
133Hobnail CracksHVS 5b 2
134Coriver YouthVS 4c  
 VALLEY FLOOR BOULDERING  
136Andy's AreteV5 ***6
1372.4 Pascal's sit-startf7B ***2
138The Fin Sit-startf7B ***4
139The Egg SSf7B ***1
140Chillax Leftf7A **3
141The Cherryf7A ***1
142Egg Traversef6B+ 1
143The Nu Railsf6C 5
144Chillaxf6C 8
145B.B.Ef7A 4
146Chuppa Chubf6C+ 2
 WINTER CLIMBING  
148Cliff GullyII/III  
149CascadeIII  
150Memories Of SnowIV  
151Cold DanceIV  
152Winter PalaceIV  
153Left-Hand WaterfallIV  
154Right-Hand WaterfallIV  
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Glendalough is a fantastic spot for climbers of any ability. The multipitch routes on the main face are well protected and fairly easy to follow as well as being fair for the grade. The shorter single pitch routes are fantastic, especially with the abseil points at the top of the twin buttresses. On a good day you can pretty much do all of the routes on one area. The local youth hostel (Glendalough) is close by and good value for money as well as the campsite slightly further away at Roundwood. Both are very busy from May onwards and advance booking may be required. The only drawback on a still, warm day is the MIDGES!!!
Michael Smith - 13/Feb/05