Climbs 223
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 440m a.s.l
Faces N

Russell on the Elephant's Bum © StuM

Crag features

The best crag in Chew Valley and one of the most impressive in The Peak. Huge prows, smooth slabs and ferocious cracks/grooves abound giving good routes of all grades. Cold. Damp and green early in the year this is an ideal 'heat wave' crag. Just a sample of the best routes to go at; Bertie's Bugbear (S), Route 1 (HS 4b), Coffin Crack (VS 4c), The Trident (HVS 5a), Freddie's Finale (HVS 5b - tape up!) and Blasphemy (E2 5c). Lovers of Hard Grit will be spoilt for choice, Neptune's Tool (E5 6c), Wristcutter's Lullaby (E6 6c), and Appointment With Fear (E7 6b) are just a few of a superb selection.

Approach notes

From the Dovestones Reservoir car park (SE 014034), walk past the Yachting Club House to reach the bridge crossing Chew Brook. Follow this upstream until a path leads rightwards to the rocks (30 min).


Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
Note to self: Check the wind reports before you go up! The sun was beating down and there was a stiff breeze in the car park... and a gale force 10 wind on top of the crag that made it unpleasant enough to call it quits after one route.
skydivingbluecat - 03/May/07
Wimberry rocks is fantastic. A beautiful crag in a beautiful setting with excellent routes! Yes it can be green, but don't necessarily wait for a scorching summer's day to get up there. I'm tempted not to say all the above lest it's usual quietness be spoilt, but I feel I owe it to the crag to get more climbers up there. Also, the trek up there is an excellent warm up (Lazy gits!).
AlistairJ - 17/Oct/06
I'd forgotten how grim the walk in is! On a hot summer day with a heavy pack on it is an unpleasant slog up the hillside :(
Nick Smith - UKC - 12/Jun/06
Excellent bouldering to be had around the plantation area and underneath the crag.
Neil - 03/Sep/05
Pure Moorland Gritstone..A Dark Peak crag to rival any gritstone crag in the High Peak; difference being that there ain't no crowds. Chew Valley the hidden gem!
Phil Davies - 15/Feb/05
This is a brilliant crag - beautiful routes, great views. Don't be put off by the 30 mins walk in. It's amazing that a crag with so many 3-star routes has no polish - even on a classic HS!
Nick Smith - 12/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
VD 9
2Thermometer CrackVS 4b *47
3Crack and SlabS 4a *36
4Short CrackVS 5a *21
5Pinball WizardE2 5c **106
6Blind FaithE3 6a 3
7Eight Metre CornerD *92
8HoudiniHVS 5b 1
9PoltergeistVS 4b 20
10Blocked ChimneyHVD *41
11Arete du CoeurE4 5c 1
12Ornithologist's CornerVS 4b **140
13Surprise AreteHVS 4c *15
14One-way TicketE2 5b * 
15SurpriseVS 4c **113
16The Yellow Bellied GonkE4 6a  
17Overhang ChimneyVD *52
18Freddie's FinaleE1 5b ***102
19Double TakeE5 6b ** 
20Wimberry OverhangE5 6c ** 
21Space OddityE5 6c * 
22Space ShuffleE4 6a **1
23Hanging GrooveVS 4c **50
24Hanging Groove VariationsVS 4c **3
25The Bad Attitude BrothersE3 6a *3
26Order of the PhoenixE9 6c *1
27Coffin CrackVS 4c ***101
28Berlin WallE6 6b ** 
29SectionedE8 6c  
30Neptune's ToolE5 6c ***3
31Wristcutter's LullabyE6 6c *** 
32DesecrationE3 6a * 
33The TridentHVS 5a ***91
34MaDMAnE7 6b ** 
35Cheltenham Gold CupE4 6c * 
36Bertie's BugbearS 4a ***182
37Sickbay ShuffleE2 5a **13
38Thorn in the Side-wallE4 6a 1
E9 7a ** 
40PietyE2 5c ***6
41BlasphemyE2 5c ***101
42Blue Light's CrackE1 5b **31
43Green StreakHVS 5a *3
44The PossessedE7 6b  
45SacrilegeE2 5c ** 
46Starvation ChimneyHVD **32
47Left Leg FinishHVS 5a *1
48Right Leg FinishHVS 5a * 
49Baron GreenbackE9  
50Baron Greenback Direct
51Appointment With FearE7 6b ***2
52Unknown StonesE9 6c ***1
53Appointment with DeathE9 6c 2
54Route 1HS 4b ***350
55Route IIVS 5a **218
56HalinaE2 5c **15
57Michael Knight Wears a Chest WigE7 6c * 
58Twin CracksS 4a *69
59ChockblockE5 6b *2
60Squirmer's ChimneyS 4a **23
61The QuiverE3 5b 1
62Consolation PrizeE5 6a ***11
63DisconsolateE6 6a *1
64Slab GullyVD 26
65Slab ClimbHVD *76
66Herringbone SlabHVS 4c **63
67Groove and ChimneyD 16
68Tap DanceE3 5c *7
69CharmE3 5c **48
70The Climb with no NameE5 6a *1
71Cooking CrackHS 4b 1
72Sloping CrackVD *26
73Piedra VerdeE6 6a  
74Wall and BulgeE2 5b *7
75Dream of Blackpool DonkeysE2 5b *5
76Appointment MissedE5 6b  
77Blood, Sweat and TearsE2 5b  
78The Twilight ZoneE4 5c *1
79Cranberry CrackVS 5a 2
80Curving AreteVD 16
81Fisher's ChimneyVD 13
82Kvick ChimneyHS 4c 3
83Village GreenE3 6c * 
84Cloudberry WallVS 5b 1
85CloudbustingE1 6b 1
86Cave Groove
VS 4c  
87Cave Rib
E2 5b 1
88Pulsation Crack
VS 4c  
89Forenoon Groove
S 4b 1
HVS 4c  
91DongVS 5c  
92A Walk with WhittakerE3 6a * 
93Northern BalletE4 5b **10
94Green but SureE1 5a *12
 Sugar Loaf boulder 
96Artificial Route
f4+ *111
97Artificial Route Sit Start
f7B *10
98Way Downf3 124
99Angus Left AreteV3 7
100Angusf6A 35
101Angus Sit Startf7B 9
102Angus Rightf6B 13
103Local Wad Stand Startf7A+ 5
104Local Wadf7B+ 2
105Rib Rightf3 163
106Left Aretef5 *107
107Left Arete Sit Startf7A *17
108Local Hero
f6B+ **107
109Local Hero Sit Startf7C+ 2
110Baxter's Wallf6A+ *49
111Baxters Wall Directf5+ *52
112Brush Electricf7C *1
113Chipless Herof6C 6
 Short Slab boulder 
115Left Chipsf3+ 69
116Right AreteVB 35
117Right Arete SSf6B 19
118Sloping Traversef6A 20
 Sloping Top boulder 
120Left Aretef4 41
121Sloping Top Wallf5 27
122Letterbox Slotf5 **154
123Fat Slapperf6B+ *103
124Fat Slapper Sit Start
f7A *40
125Slap Happyf6C **42
126Slapstickf6B+ 10
127The Grey Roadf7C  
 Slab boulder 
f3+ 121
130The Slab
f4 *100
 Stream boulder 
132Shallow Water
f6A 28
133Stream Slab
f4 81
134Stream Arete
f4+ 59
 Tank boulder 
136The DescentV0- 100
137Left SlabV0+ 7
138Diagonal Crackf4+ 189
139Tanked Upf4 143
140Chipper / Chipped Aretef4 163
141Moby DickV2 5
142Enhancing Herof6C **92
143Enhancing Hero Sit Start
f7B *4
144Elephant's Bum
f5 ***236
145Elephant's Bum Sitter *
f6C 2
f7C *5
147Think Tank
f6B+ ***102
148Think Tank (Hard Version)f6C+ 19
149Beginner's Slabf3 *109
150Elephant's Traversef5+ 12
151Advertf4+ 65
152Fat Pinch
f6C *32
 Shellshot boulder 
154Take Coverf7A+ *9
155Howitzerf6A 2
156Shell Shotf4 *57
157Shell Shockf4 70
158The Cannonf6A *21
 Groove boulder 
f6B **16
161Groove Traversef7B *2
162Handrailf6A 11
 square block boulder 
164Flaky Groovef3+ 28
165Flaky Stepped Groovef3 28
166Poor Crimpf7A * 
167Scoop Rockoverf6B *8
 Whale boulder 
f5+ *79
170Whale Eliminatef6B+ *1
171Grit Style
f6B+ *17
f4+ 72
173Sam's Slopers
f7B * 
 Scoop boulder 
175Steve's Wallf7A+ 2
176Scoop Left
f5+ *33
177Scoop Left direct start
f6A 7
178Scoop Centre
f5+ 14
179The Scoop direct start
f6A 2
180The Scoopf4 *62
 Matterhorn boulder 
182The Nipple
f6A *40
183The Nipple Sit Startf6B+ 2
184West's Route
f5+ *55
f7A ***13
186Zmutt Ridge
f6A *65
187South Face DirectV1 24
188South Facef4 103
189Eliminatorf6A 74
190Hörnli Ridgef3 69
191Forefinger ExerciseV4 6
 Fish boulder 
193You're Joking!f7B *21
194The Groove
f6B+ **57
195Fish Arete
f6C+ ***82
196Fish Arete Sit Start
f7B+ ***17
197The Fish Slabf3+ 59
198Fish Slab CentralV0 38
199Fish Slab RightV1 25
200The Coarse Traverse
f7A *30
201Not So CoarseV3 *5
202Dark Matter
f7B+ **3
203Fish Dishf6B+ **58
204Fish Dish Extensionf6C+ 3
205Fish Eyef4 24
206Fish Traverse
f7A *3
207Grouperf6A 16
208Sloping Shelff6A+ 16
 Salmon Boulder 
210SushiV1 1
211Cheap as ChipsV1 *2
212Poachedf3 20
213Smokedf4 18
214Le Petit Tankf4+ *16
215Le Petit Tank Sit-start
f5 *11
216Rawf6A 6
217Leapf3 *6
218Leap Sit-startf6B *4
 Top Slab boulder 
220Peas of Minef5+ 2
221Sip in Side
f3 14
222Pool Wallf4 4
 Mole Boulder 
224Mole Aretef6A 2
225Directissimaf7B+ ***2
226Mr Molef6C 1
227Mrs Molef5+ 2
 Crag Problems 
229Rail Trailf7A+ 1
231Jesus Christ Fenton, I've got Bleeding Tips!f7B 2
232Floofy Onef7C 1
233Square AreteV0+ 6
234Square Arete sit startV3 2
235South AreteV0- 5
236The FlakeV0- 4
237Green WallV0- 6
238Rib LeftV1 4
239Cave DwellerV2 3
240Cave TraverseV3 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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