Wimberry Rocks

Climbs 216 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 440m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
The best crag in Chew Valley and one of the most impressive in The Peak. Huge prows, smooth slabs and ferocious cracks/grooves abound giving good routes of all grades. Cold. Damp and green early in the year this is an ideal 'heat wave' crag. Just a sample of the best routes to go at; Bertie's Bugbear (S), Route 1 (HS 4b), Coffin Crack (VS 4c), The Trident (HVS 5a), Freddie's Finale (HVS 5b - tape up!) and Blasphemy (E2 5c). Lovers of Hard Grit will be spoilt for choice, Neptune's Tool (E5 6c), Wristcutter's Lullaby (E6 6c), and Appointment With Fear (E7 6b) are just a few of a superb selection.

Access notes
From the Dovestones Reservoir car park (SE 014034), walk past the Yachting Club House to reach the bridge crossing Chew Brook. Follow this upstream until a path leads rightwards to the rocks (30 min).
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Over the Moors (2012), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Western Grit (2009), On Peak Rock (2003), Moorland Gritstone - Chew Valley (1988),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Western Grit (2003), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1PSVD
2Thermometer CrackVS 4b *
3Crack and SlabS 4a *
4Short CrackVS 5a *
5Pinball WizardE2 5c **
6Blind FaithE3 6a
7Eight Metre CornerD *
8HoudiniHVS 5b
9PoltergeistVS 4b
10Blocked ChimneyHVD *
11Arete du CoeurE4 5c
12Ornithologist's CornerVS 4b **
13Surprise AreteHVS 4c *
14One-way TicketE2 5b *
15SurpriseVS 4c **
16The Yellow Bellied GonkE4 6a
17Overhang ChimneyVD *
18Freddie's FinaleE1 5b ***
19Double TakeE5 6b **
20Wimberry OverhangE5 6c **
21Space OddityE5 6c *
22Space ShuffleE4 6a **
23Hanging GrooveVS 4c **
24Hanging Groove VariationsVS 4c **
25The Bad Attitude BrothersE3 6a *
26Order of the PhoenixE9 6c *
27Coffin CrackVS 4c ***
28Berlin WallE6 6b **
29SectionedE8 6c
30Neptune's ToolE5 6c ***
31Wristcutter's LullabyE6 6c ***
32DesecrationE3 6a *
33The TridentHVS 5a ***
34MaDMAnE7 6b **
35Cheltenham Gold CupE4 6c *
36Bertie's BugbearS 4a ***
37Sickbay ShuffleE2 5a **
38Thorn in the Side-wallE4 6a
39DangermouseE9 7a **
40PietyE2 5c ***
41BlasphemyE2 5c ***
42Blue Light's CrackE1 5b **
43Green StreakHVS 5a *
44The PossessedE7 6b
45SacrilegeE2 5c **
46Starvation ChimneyHVD **
47Left Leg FinishHVS 5a *
48Right Leg FinishHVS 5a *
49Baron GreenbackE9
50Baron Greenback DirectE10
51Appointment With FearE7 6b ***
52Unknown StonesE9 6c ***
53Appointment with DeathE9 6c
54Route 1HS 4b ***
55Route IIVS 5a **
56HalinaE2 5c **
57Michael Knight Wears a Chest WigE7 6c *
58Twin CracksS 4a *
59ChockblockE5 6b *
60Squirmer's ChimneyS 4a **
61The QuiverE3 5b
62Consolation PrizeE5 6a ***
63DisconsolateE6 6a *
64Slab GullyVD
65Slab ClimbHVD *
66Herringbone SlabHVS 4c **
67Groove and ChimneyD
68Tap DanceE3 5c *
69CharmE3 5c **
70The Climb with no NameE5 6a *
71Cooking CrackHS 4b
72Sloping CrackVD *
73Piedra VerdeE6 6a
74Wall and BulgeE2 5b *
75Dream of Blackpool DonkeysE2 5b *
76Appointment MissedE5 6b
77Blood, Sweat and TearsE2 5b
78The Twilight ZoneE4 5c *
79Cranberry CrackVS 5a
80Curving AreteVD
81Fisher's ChimneyVD
82Kvick ChimneyHS 4c
83Village GreenE3 6c *
84Cloudberry WallVS 5b
85CloudbustingE1 6b
86Cave GrooveVS 4c
87Cave RibE2 5b
88Pulsation CrackVS 4c
89Forenoon GrooveS 4b
90DingHVS 4c
91DongVS 5c
92A Walk with WhittakerE3 6a *
93Northern BalletE4 5b **
94Green but SureE1 5a *
 SUGAR LOAF BOULDER 
96Artificial Routef4+ *
97Artificial Route Sit Startf7B *
98Way Downf3
99Angus Left AreteV3
100Angusf6A
101Angus Sit Startf7B
102Angus Rightf6B
103Local Wad Stand Startf7A+
104Local Wadf7B+
105Rib Rightf3
106Left Aretef5 *
107Left Arete Sit Startf7A 6b *
108Local Herof6B+ **
109Local Hero Sit Startf7C+
110Baxter's Wallf6A+ *
111Baxters Wall Directf5+ *
112Brush Electricf7C *
113Chipless Herof6C 6b
 SHORT SLAB BOULDER 
115Left Chipsf3+ 4b
116Right AreteVB 5a
117Right Arete SSf6B
118Sloping Traversef6A 5c
 SLOPING TOP BOULDER 
120Left Aretef4
121Sloping Top Wallf5
122Letterbox Slotf5 **
123Fat Slapperf6B+ *
124Fat Slapper Sit Startf7A *
125Slap Happyf6C **
126Slapstickf6B+
127The Grey Roadf7C
 SLAB BOULDER 
129Chipperf3+
130The Slabf4 *
 STREAM BOULDER 
132Shallow Waterf6A
133Stream Slabf4
134Stream Aretef4+
 TANK BOULDER 
136The DescentV0-
137Diagonal Crackf4+
138Tanked Upf4
139Chipped Aretef4
140Enhancing Herof6C **
141Enhancing Hero Sit Startf7B *
142Elephant's Bumf5 ***
143Statesidef7C *
144Think Tankf6B+ ***
145Think Tank (Hard Version)f6C+ 6b
146Beginner's Slabf3 *
147Elephant's Traversef5+ 5c
148Advertf4+ 4b
149Fat Pinchf6C *
 SHELLSHOT BOULDER 
151Take Coverf7A *
152Howitzerf6A
153Shell Shotf4 *
154Shell Shockf4
155The Cannonf6A *
 GROOVE BOULDER 
157Groovef6B **
158Groove Traversef7B *
159Handrailf6A
 SQUARE BLOCK BOULDER 
161Flaky Groovef3+
162Flaky Stepped Groovef3
163Poor Crimpf7A *
164Scoop Rockoverf6B *
 WHALE BOULDER 
166Pocketsf5+ *
167Whale Eliminatef6B+ *
168Grit Stylef6B+ *
169Whalebonef4+
170Sam's Slopersf7B *
 SCOOP BOULDER 
172Steve's Wallf7A+
173Scoop Leftf5+ *
174Scoop Left direct startf6A
175Scoop Centref5+
176The Scoop direct startf6A
177The Scoopf4 *
 MATTERHORN BOULDER 
179The Nipplef6A *
180The Nipple Sit Startf6B+
181West's Routef5+ *
182Winsomef7A ***
183Zmutt Ridgef6A *
184South Face DirectV1
185South Facef4
186Eliminatorf6A
187Hörnli Ridgef3
188Forefinger ExerciseV4 6b
 FISH BOULDER 
190You're Joking!f7B *
191The Groovef6B+ **
192Fish Aretef6C+ ***
193Fish Arete Sit Startf7B+ ***
194The Fish Slabf3+
195Fish Slab CentralV0
196Fish Slab RightV1
197The Coarse Traversef7A *
198Dark Matterf7B+ **
199Fish Dishf6B+ **
200Fish Dish Extensionf6C+
201Fish Eyef4
202Fish Traversef7A *
203Grouperf6A
204Sloping Shelff6A+
 SALMON BOULDER 
206SushiV1 5b
207Cheap as ChipsV1 5c *
208Poachedf3
209Smokedf4
210Le Petit Tankf4+ *
211Le Petit Tank Sit-startf5 *
212Rawf6A
213Leapf3 *
214Leap Sit-startf6B *
 TOP SLAB BOULDER 
216Peas of Minef5+
217Sip in Sidef3
218Pool Wallf4
 MOLE BOULDER 
220Mole Aretef6A
221Directissimaf7B+ ***
222Mr Molef6C
223Mrs Molef5+
 CRAG PROBLEMS 
225Rail Trailf7A+
 UNCONFIRMED 
227Jesus Christ Fenton, I've got Bleeding Tips!f7B
228Floofy Onef7C
229Square Arete *V0+
230Square Arete sit start *V3
231Left Slab *V0+
232South Arete *V0-
233The Flake *V0-
234La Petit Tank sit start *V1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer ste_d

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Note to self: Check the wind reports before you go up! The sun was beating down and there was a stiff breeze in the car park... and a gale force 10 wind on top of the crag that made it unpleasant enough to call it quits after one route.
skydivingbluecat - 03/May/07
Wimberry rocks is fantastic. A beautiful crag in a beautiful setting with excellent routes! Yes it can be green, but don't necessarily wait for a scorching summer's day to get up there. I'm tempted not to say all the above lest it's usual quietness be spoilt, but I feel I owe it to the crag to get more climbers up there. Also, the trek up there is an excellent warm up (Lazy gits!).
AlistairJ - 17/Oct/06
I'd forgotten how grim the walk in is! On a hot summer day with a heavy pack on it is an unpleasant slog up the hillside :(
Nick Smith - UKC - 12/Jun/06
Excellent bouldering to be had around the plantation area and underneath the crag.
Neil - 03/Sep/05
Pure Moorland Gritstone..A Dark Peak crag to rival any gritstone crag in the High Peak; difference being that there ain't no crowds. Chew Valley the hidden gem!
Phil Davies - 15/Feb/05
This is a brilliant crag - beautiful routes, great views. Don't be put off by the 30 mins walk in. It's amazing that a crag with so many 3-star routes has no polish - even on a classic HS!
Nick Smith - 12/Jul/04
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 14/Apr/2010
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