Wimberry Rocks

Climbs 216 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 440m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
The best crag in Chew Valley and one of the most impressive in The Peak. Huge prows, smooth slabs and ferocious cracks/grooves abound giving good routes of all grades. Cold. Damp and green early in the year this is an ideal 'heat wave' crag. Just a sample of the best routes to go at; Bertie's Bugbear (S), Route 1 (HS 4b), Coffin Crack (VS 4c), The Trident (HVS 5a), Freddie's Finale (HVS 5b - tape up!) and Blasphemy (E2 5c). Lovers of Hard Grit will be spoilt for choice, Neptune's Tool (E5 6c), Wristcutter's Lullaby (E6 6c), and Appointment With Fear (E7 6b) are just a few of a superb selection.

Access notes
From the Dovestones Reservoir car park (SE 014034), walk past the Yachting Club House to reach the bridge crossing Chew Brook. Follow this upstream until a path leads rightwards to the rocks (30 min).
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Over the Moors (2012), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Western Grit (2009), On Peak Rock (2003), Moorland Gritstone - Chew Valley (1988),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Western Grit (2003), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1PSVD 5
2Thermometer CrackVS 4b *30
3Crack and SlabS 4a *33
4Short CrackVS 5a *17
5Pinball WizardE2 5c **78
6Blind FaithE3 6a 3
7Eight Metre CornerD *74
8HoudiniHVS 5b 1
9PoltergeistVS 4b 16
10Blocked ChimneyHVD *37
11Arete du CoeurE4 5c 1
12Ornithologist's CornerVS 4b **100
13Surprise AreteHVS 4c *13
14One-way TicketE2 5b * 
15SurpriseVS 4c **85
16The Yellow Bellied GonkE4 6a  
17Overhang ChimneyVD *46
18Freddie's FinaleE1 5b ***57
19Double TakeE5 6b ** 
20Wimberry OverhangE5 6c ** 
21Space OddityE5 6c * 
22Space ShuffleE4 6a **1
23Hanging GrooveVS 4c **33
24Hanging Groove VariationsVS 4c **3
25The Bad Attitude BrothersE3 6a *3
26Order of the PhoenixE9 6c *1
27Coffin CrackVS 4c ***64
28Berlin WallE6 6b ** 
29SectionedE8 6c  
30Neptune's ToolE5 6c ***3
31Wristcutter's LullabyE6 6c *** 
32DesecrationE3 6a * 
33The TridentHVS 5a ***45
34MaDMAnE7 6b ** 
35Cheltenham Gold CupE4 6c * 
36Bertie's BugbearS 4a ***143
37Sickbay ShuffleE2 5a **11
38Thorn in the Side-wallE4 6a 1
39DangermouseE9 7a ** 
40PietyE2 5c ***6
41BlasphemyE2 5c ***65
42Blue Light's CrackE1 5b **15
43Green StreakHVS 5a *3
44The PossessedE7 6b  
45SacrilegeE2 5c ** 
46Starvation ChimneyHVD **24
47Left Leg FinishHVS 5a *1
48Right Leg FinishHVS 5a * 
49Baron GreenbackE9  
50Baron Greenback DirectE10  
51Appointment With FearE7 6b ***1
52Unknown StonesE9 6c ***1
53Appointment with DeathE9 6c 1
54Route 1HS 4b ***266
55Route IIVS 5a **169
56HalinaE2 5c **12
57Michael Knight Wears a Chest WigE7 6c * 
58Twin CracksS 4a *52
59ChockblockE5 6b *2
60Squirmer's ChimneyS 4a **22
61The QuiverE3 5b 1
62Consolation PrizeE5 6a ***10
63DisconsolateE6 6a *1
64Slab GullyVD 24
65Slab ClimbHVD *63
66Herringbone SlabHVS 4c **47
67Groove and ChimneyD 12
68Tap DanceE3 5c *5
69CharmE3 5c **44
70The Climb with no NameE5 6a *1
71Cooking CrackHS 4b 1
72Sloping CrackVD *24
73Piedra VerdeE6 6a  
74Wall and BulgeE2 5b *7
75Dream of Blackpool DonkeysE2 5b *5
76Appointment MissedE5 6b  
77Blood, Sweat and TearsE2 5b  
78The Twilight ZoneE4 5c * 
79Cranberry CrackVS 5a 2
80Curving AreteVD 13
81Fisher's ChimneyVD 10
82Kvick ChimneyHS 4c 3
83Village GreenE3 6c * 
84Cloudberry WallVS 5b 1
85CloudbustingE1 6b 1
86Cave GrooveVS 4c  
87Cave RibE2 5b 1
88Pulsation CrackVS 4c  
89Forenoon GrooveS 4b 1
90DingHVS 4c  
91DongVS 5c  
92A Walk with WhittakerE3 6a * 
93Northern BalletE4 5b **10
94Green but SureE1 5a *12
 SUGAR LOAF BOULDER  
96Artificial Routef4+ *81
97Artificial Route Sit Startf7B *7
98Way Downf3 90
99Angus Left AreteV3 5
100Angusf6A 29
101Angus Sit Startf7B 6
102Angus Rightf6B 10
103Local Wad Stand Startf7A+ 3
104Local Wadf7B+ 2
105Rib Rightf3 134
106Left Aretef5 *77
107Left Arete Sit Startf7A 6b *12
108Local Herof6B+ **84
109Local Hero Sit Startf7C+ 2
110Baxter's Wallf6A+ *36
111Baxters Wall Directf5+ *36
112Brush Electricf7C *1
113Chipless Herof6C 6b 5
 SHORT SLAB BOULDER  
115Left Chipsf3+ 4b 58
116Right AreteVB 5a 29
117Right Arete SSf6B 14
118Sloping Traversef6A 5c 14
 SLOPING TOP BOULDER  
120Left Aretef4 28
121Sloping Top Wallf5 20
122Letterbox Slotf5 **123
123Fat Slapperf6B+ *84
124Fat Slapper Sit Startf7A *30
125Slap Happyf6C **34
126Slapstickf6B+ 7
127The Grey Roadf7C  
 SLAB BOULDER  
129Chipperf3+ 89
130The Slabf4 *77
 STREAM BOULDER  
132Shallow Waterf6A 25
133Stream Slabf4 65
134Stream Aretef4+ 51
 TANK BOULDER  
136The DescentV0- 75
137Diagonal Crackf4+ 148
138Tanked Upf4 109
139Chipped Aretef4 125
140Enhancing Herof6C **76
141Enhancing Hero Sit Startf7B *4
142Elephant's Bumf5 ***194
143Statesidef7C *3
144Think Tankf6B+ ***85
145Think Tank (Hard Version)f6C+ 6b 14
146Beginner's Slabf3 *90
147Elephant's Traversef5+ 5c 9
148Advertf4+ 4b 59
149Fat Pinchf6C *26
 SHELLSHOT BOULDER  
151Take Coverf7A *5
152Howitzerf6A 2
153Shell Shotf4 *43
154Shell Shockf4 53
155The Cannonf6A *17
 GROOVE BOULDER  
157Groovef6B **14
158Groove Traversef7B *1
159Handrailf6A 9
 SQUARE BLOCK BOULDER  
161Flaky Groovef3+ 16
162Flaky Stepped Groovef3 16
163Poor Crimpf7A * 
164Scoop Rockoverf6B *8
 WHALE BOULDER  
166Pocketsf5+ *65
167Whale Eliminatef6B+ *1
168Grit Stylef6B+ *15
169Whalebonef4+ 57
170Sam's Slopersf7B * 
 SCOOP BOULDER  
172Steve's Wallf7A+  
173Scoop Leftf5+ *31
174Scoop Left direct startf6A 4
175Scoop Centref5+ 14
176The Scoop direct startf6A 2
177The Scoopf4 *49
 MATTERHORN BOULDER  
179The Nipplef6A *34
180The Nipple Sit Startf6B+ 2
181West's Routef5+ *47
182Winsomef7A ***12
183Zmutt Ridgef6A *53
184South Face DirectV1 12
185South Facef4 74
186Eliminatorf6A 53
187Hörnli Ridgef3 42
188Forefinger ExerciseV4 6b 6
 FISH BOULDER  
190You're Joking!f7B *15
191The Groovef6B+ **55
192Fish Aretef6C+ ***70
193Fish Arete Sit Startf7B+ ***12
194The Fish Slabf3+ 38
195Fish Slab CentralV0 16
196Fish Slab RightV1 9
197The Coarse Traversef7A *26
198Dark Matterf7B+ **3
199Fish Dishf6B+ **51
200Fish Dish Extensionf6C+ 2
201Fish Eyef4 15
202Fish Traversef7A *3
203Grouperf6A 14
204Sloping Shelff6A+ 12
 SALMON BOULDER  
206SushiV1 5b 1
207Cheap as ChipsV1 5c *2
208Poachedf3 12
209Smokedf4 12
210Le Petit Tankf4+ *11
211Le Petit Tank Sit-startf5 *4
212Rawf6A 4
213Leapf3 *4
214Leap Sit-startf6B *4
 TOP SLAB BOULDER  
216Peas of Minef5+ 2
217Sip in Sidef3 9
218Pool Wallf4 4
 MOLE BOULDER  
220Mole Aretef6A 2
221Directissimaf7B+ ***1
222Mr Molef6C 1
223Mrs Molef5+ 2
 CRAG PROBLEMS  
225Rail Trailf7A+ 1
 UNCONFIRMED  
227Jesus Christ Fenton, I've got Bleeding Tips!f7B 2
228Floofy Onef7C 1
229Square Arete *V0+ 1
230Square Arete sit start *V3 1
231Left Slab *V0+ 1
232South Arete *V0- 1
233The Flake *V0- 1
234La Petit Tank sit start *V1 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer ste_d

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Note to self: Check the wind reports before you go up! The sun was beating down and there was a stiff breeze in the car park... and a gale force 10 wind on top of the crag that made it unpleasant enough to call it quits after one route.
skydivingbluecat - 03/May/07
Wimberry rocks is fantastic. A beautiful crag in a beautiful setting with excellent routes! Yes it can be green, but don't necessarily wait for a scorching summer's day to get up there. I'm tempted not to say all the above lest it's usual quietness be spoilt, but I feel I owe it to the crag to get more climbers up there. Also, the trek up there is an excellent warm up (Lazy gits!).
AlistairJ - 17/Oct/06
I'd forgotten how grim the walk in is! On a hot summer day with a heavy pack on it is an unpleasant slog up the hillside :(
Nick Smith - UKC - 12/Jun/06
Excellent bouldering to be had around the plantation area and underneath the crag.
Neil - 03/Sep/05
Pure Moorland Gritstone..A Dark Peak crag to rival any gritstone crag in the High Peak; difference being that there ain't no crowds. Chew Valley the hidden gem!
Phil Davies - 15/Feb/05
This is a brilliant crag - beautiful routes, great views. Don't be put off by the 30 mins walk in. It's amazing that a crag with so many 3-star routes has no polish - even on a classic HS!
Nick Smith - 12/Jul/04
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 14/Apr/2010
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