Climbs 223
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 440m a.s.l
Faces N

Russell on the Elephant's Bum © StuM

Crag features

The best crag in Chew Valley and one of the most impressive in The Peak. Huge prows, smooth slabs and ferocious cracks/grooves abound giving good routes of all grades. Cold. Damp and green early in the year this is an ideal 'heat wave' crag. Just a sample of the best routes to go at; Bertie's Bugbear (S), Route 1 (HS 4b), Coffin Crack (VS 4c), The Trident (HVS 5a), Freddie's Finale (HVS 5b - tape up!) and Blasphemy (E2 5c). Lovers of Hard Grit will be spoilt for choice, Neptune's Tool (E5 6c), Wristcutter's Lullaby (E6 6c), and Appointment With Fear (E7 6b) are just a few of a superb selection.

Approach notes

From the Dovestones Reservoir car park (SE 014034), walk past the Yachting Club House to reach the bridge crossing Chew Brook. Follow this upstream until a path leads rightwards to the rocks (30 min).


Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
Note to self: Check the wind reports before you go up! The sun was beating down and there was a stiff breeze in the car park... and a gale force 10 wind on top of the crag that made it unpleasant enough to call it quits after one route.
skydivingbluecat - 03/May/07
Wimberry rocks is fantastic. A beautiful crag in a beautiful setting with excellent routes! Yes it can be green, but don't necessarily wait for a scorching summer's day to get up there. I'm tempted not to say all the above lest it's usual quietness be spoilt, but I feel I owe it to the crag to get more climbers up there. Also, the trek up there is an excellent warm up (Lazy gits!).
AlistairJ - 17/Oct/06
I'd forgotten how grim the walk in is! On a hot summer day with a heavy pack on it is an unpleasant slog up the hillside :(
Nick Smith - UKC - 12/Jun/06
Excellent bouldering to be had around the plantation area and underneath the crag.
Neil - 03/Sep/05
Pure Moorland Gritstone..A Dark Peak crag to rival any gritstone crag in the High Peak; difference being that there ain't no crowds. Chew Valley the hidden gem!
Phil Davies - 15/Feb/05
This is a brilliant crag - beautiful routes, great views. Don't be put off by the 30 mins walk in. It's amazing that a crag with so many 3-star routes has no polish - even on a classic HS!
Nick Smith - 12/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
VD 9
2Thermometer CrackVS 4b *45
3Crack and SlabS 4a *36
4Short CrackVS 5a *21
5Pinball WizardE2 5c **104
6Blind FaithE3 6a 3
7Eight Metre CornerD *88
8HoudiniHVS 5b 1
9PoltergeistVS 4b 20
10Blocked ChimneyHVD *41
11Arete du CoeurE4 5c 1
12Ornithologist's CornerVS 4b **137
13Surprise AreteHVS 4c *15
14One-way TicketE2 5b * 
15SurpriseVS 4c **110
16The Yellow Bellied GonkE4 6a  
17Overhang ChimneyVD *52
18Freddie's FinaleE1 5b ***97
19Double TakeE5 6b ** 
20Wimberry OverhangE5 6c ** 
21Space OddityE5 6c * 
22Space ShuffleE4 6a **1
23Hanging GrooveVS 4c **48
24Hanging Groove VariationsVS 4c **3
25The Bad Attitude BrothersE3 6a *3
26Order of the PhoenixE9 6c *1
27Coffin CrackVS 4c ***100
28Berlin WallE6 6b ** 
29SectionedE8 6c  
30Neptune's ToolE5 6c ***3
31Wristcutter's LullabyE6 6c *** 
32DesecrationE3 6a * 
33The TridentHVS 5a ***87
34MaDMAnE7 6b ** 
35Cheltenham Gold CupE4 6c * 
36Bertie's BugbearS 4a ***182
37Sickbay ShuffleE2 5a **13
38Thorn in the Side-wallE4 6a 1
E9 7a ** 
40PietyE2 5c ***6
41BlasphemyE2 5c ***100
42Blue Light's CrackE1 5b **28
43Green StreakHVS 5a *3
44The PossessedE7 6b  
45SacrilegeE2 5c ** 
46Starvation ChimneyHVD **32
47Left Leg FinishHVS 5a *1
48Right Leg FinishHVS 5a * 
49Baron GreenbackE9  
50Baron Greenback Direct
51Appointment With FearE7 6b ***2
52Unknown StonesE9 6c ***1
53Appointment with DeathE9 6c 2
54Route 1HS 4b ***339
55Route IIVS 5a **211
56HalinaE2 5c **15
57Michael Knight Wears a Chest WigE7 6c * 
58Twin CracksS 4a *69
59ChockblockE5 6b *2
60Squirmer's ChimneyS 4a **23
61The QuiverE3 5b 1
62Consolation PrizeE5 6a ***11
63DisconsolateE6 6a *1
64Slab GullyVD 26
65Slab ClimbHVD *76
66Herringbone SlabHVS 4c **63
67Groove and ChimneyD 16
68Tap DanceE3 5c *7
69CharmE3 5c **48
70The Climb with no NameE5 6a *1
71Cooking CrackHS 4b 1
72Sloping CrackVD *26
73Piedra VerdeE6 6a  
74Wall and BulgeE2 5b *7
75Dream of Blackpool DonkeysE2 5b *5
76Appointment MissedE5 6b  
77Blood, Sweat and TearsE2 5b  
78The Twilight ZoneE4 5c *1
79Cranberry CrackVS 5a 2
80Curving AreteVD 16
81Fisher's ChimneyVD 13
82Kvick ChimneyHS 4c 3
83Village GreenE3 6c * 
84Cloudberry WallVS 5b 1
85CloudbustingE1 6b 1
86Cave Groove
VS 4c  
87Cave Rib
E2 5b 1
88Pulsation Crack
VS 4c  
89Forenoon Groove
S 4b 1
HVS 4c  
91DongVS 5c  
92A Walk with WhittakerE3 6a * 
93Northern BalletE4 5b **10
94Green but SureE1 5a *12
 Sugar Loaf boulder 
96Artificial Route
f4+ *109
97Artificial Route Sit Start
f7B *10
98Way Downf3 122
99Angus Left AreteV3 7
100Angusf6A 35
101Angus Sit Startf7B 9
102Angus Rightf6B 13
103Local Wad Stand Startf7A+ 5
104Local Wadf7B+ 2
105Rib Rightf3 162
106Left Aretef5 *104
107Left Arete Sit Startf7A *17
108Local Hero
f6B+ **104
109Local Hero Sit Startf7C+ 2
110Baxter's Wallf6A+ *49
111Baxters Wall Directf5+ *51
112Brush Electricf7C *1
113Chipless Herof6C 6
 Short Slab boulder 
115Left Chipsf3+ 69
116Right AreteVB 35
117Right Arete SSf6B 19
118Sloping Traversef6A 20
 Sloping Top boulder 
120Left Aretef4 39
121Sloping Top Wallf5 27
122Letterbox Slotf5 **150
123Fat Slapperf6B+ *102
124Fat Slapper Sit Start
f7A *39
125Slap Happyf6C **42
126Slapstickf6B+ 9
127The Grey Roadf7C  
 Slab boulder 
f3+ 119
130The Slab
f4 *98
 Stream boulder 
132Shallow Water
f6A 27
133Stream Slab
f4 80
134Stream Arete
f4+ 58
 Tank boulder 
136The DescentV0- 97
137Diagonal Crackf4+ 186
138Tanked Upf4 140
139Chipped Aretef4 160
140Enhancing Herof6C **89
141Enhancing Hero Sit Start
f7B *4
142Elephant's Bum
f5 ***233
f7C *4
144Think Tank
f6B+ ***101
145Think Tank (Hard Version)f6C+ 18
146Beginner's Slabf3 *109
147Elephant's Traversef5+ 12
148Advertf4+ 65
149Fat Pinch
f6C *32
 Shellshot boulder 
151Take Coverf7A *5
152Howitzerf6A 2
153Shell Shotf4 *56
154Shell Shockf4 69
155The Cannonf6A *20
 Groove boulder 
f6B **16
158Groove Traversef7B *2
159Handrailf6A 11
 square block boulder 
161Flaky Groovef3+ 28
162Flaky Stepped Groovef3 28
163Poor Crimpf7A * 
164Scoop Rockoverf6B *8
 Whale boulder 
f5+ *78
167Whale Eliminatef6B+ *1
168Grit Style
f6B+ *17
f4+ 72
170Sam's Slopers
f7B * 
 Scoop boulder 
172Steve's Wallf7A+ 2
173Scoop Left
f5+ *33
174Scoop Left direct start
f6A 7
175Scoop Centre
f5+ 14
176The Scoop direct start
f6A 2
177The Scoopf4 *62
 Matterhorn boulder 
179The Nipple
f6A *40
180The Nipple Sit Startf6B+ 2
181West's Route
f5+ *55
f7A ***13
183Zmutt Ridge
f6A *62
184South Face DirectV1 23
185South Facef4 102
186Eliminatorf6A 72
187Hörnli Ridgef3 67
188Forefinger ExerciseV4 6
 Fish boulder 
190You're Joking!f7B *20
191The Groove
f6B+ **57
192Fish Arete
f6C+ ***81
193Fish Arete Sit Start
f7B+ ***17
194The Fish Slabf3+ 56
195Fish Slab CentralV0 35
196Fish Slab RightV1 22
197The Coarse Traverse
f7A *30
198Not So CoarseV3 *5
199Dark Matter
f7B+ **3
200Fish Dishf6B+ **57
201Fish Dish Extensionf6C+ 3
202Fish Eyef4 22
203Fish Traverse
f7A *3
204Grouperf6A 14
205Sloping Shelff6A+ 16
 Salmon Boulder 
207SushiV1 1
208Cheap as ChipsV1 *2
209Poachedf3 20
210Smokedf4 18
211Le Petit Tankf4+ *16
212Le Petit Tank Sit-start
f5 *11
213Rawf6A 6
214Leapf3 *6
215Leap Sit-startf6B *4
 Top Slab boulder 
217Peas of Minef5+ 2
218Sip in Side
f3 14
219Pool Wallf4 4
 Mole Boulder 
221Mole Aretef6A 2
222Directissimaf7B+ ***2
223Mr Molef6C 1
224Mrs Molef5+ 2
 Crag Problems 
226Rail Trailf7A+ 1
228Jesus Christ Fenton, I've got Bleeding Tips!f7B 2
229Floofy Onef7C 1
230Square AreteV0+ 6
231Square Arete sit startV3 2
232Left SlabV0+ 6
233South AreteV0- 5
234The FlakeV0- 4
235Green WallV0- 6
236Rib LeftV1 4
237Moby DickV2 4
238Cave DwellerV2 3
239Cave TraverseV3 1
240Elephant's Bum Sitter *
f6C 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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