The crag is situated on the south east face of Mam Tor and is impossible to miss, dominating as it does the Hope Valley and seen as soon as one breasts the crest of surprise view several miles away when approaching from the east. The ground is loose, broken and treacherous in most conditions. Probably best summed up in the wise words of the late, great Paul Nunn who declared: 'A shale-built slag-heap of inveterately crumbling rubble.' The face is only probably comparatively safe after several days of hard frost and cloud cover has prevented the sun from appearing. The routes are therefore normally climbed, on the scarce occasions they are, under winter conditions.
Access is via the disused section of the A625 that runs past the base of the hill. The crag is gained in less than 10 mins.
|1||Mam Tor Left Hand||I/II **||20|
|2||Mam Tor Gully||I/II||149|
|3||Mam tor gully (summer conditions)||3||22|
|4||Mam Tor right-hand *||I/II||13|
|5||Blue John Rib *||III **||18|
|6||Central Face *||III||8|
|7||Mam Tor Gully Direct *||II/III||16|
|8||Left-hand Rib *||II||6|
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|Pretty confusing route list with umpteen versions of Mam Tor Gully - Their are 3 shallow scoops left of the obvious gully - Blue John Rib is the right bounding rib of the gully, the first scoop right is Central Route, the second scoop is Hari Kari, next right is the Third Scoop (also called The Weetabix Tradmill in Over The Moors). See Colin Wells topo photo here.|
steveb2006 - 13/Feb/15
|Climbed Mam Tor with my brother, Bo, on 31/10/05. Went up the gully in dry summer conditions, nothing more than a stiff grassy scramble. The gully is wet and slippy but once the grassy ramps are gained it becomes very easy. Although it is less scary than it looks though it is LANDSLIPPING so could all fall at any moment. Just avoid it in rain or on Sundays + Bank Holidays when the hill is swarming with gawping tourists and park rangers. |
jake robertson - 16/Nov/05