Shipley Glen

Climbs 305 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A low crag only really suitable for bouldering or soloing.

Can be green towards the pub end during winter months.

Area around John Wall is best with a high concentration of clean problems around 4b-6b.

Lots of the problems involve climbing up small holds on numerous breaks, but there is a mix of sit-downs, traverses, slabs, aretes and overhangs.

CD = Cameron Duff 2000

TC = Total Climbing 2008

Approach notes
No access problems- park along the top at several small parking bays.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 2 (2014), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2008), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2001), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 GOD IS LOVE  
2Jesus Savesf5  
3God Graffiti'sf6B  
4God is Lovef4 1
5God is Love Traversef6A  
 CD BOULDER 1 TC AREA 1 - DOG'S DINNER BUTTRESS  
7Doggingf5 59
8Doggerf4+ *60
9Dog's Dinner Directf5 25
10Dog's Dinnerf4 **57
11CD 1 Problem 5V0 5b 5
 CD BOULDER 2 TC AREA 2 - CHRISTINE'S HORROR- KESTREL CRACK  
13Sparrow Hawkf4 62
14CD 2 Problem 2VB 5a+ 4
15Falconf5+ **53
16Kestrel Crackf4+ ***89
17Fowlerf5+ ***43
18CD 2 Problem 6V1 5c 7
19The Blair Witchf5+ 17
20Voodoo Dollf6A 26
21Higher Terraf4+ 20
22Christine's Horrorf4+ 37
 CD BOULDER 3 TC AREA 3 - LOW BLOCK - THE PRESS  
24The Pressf4+ 12
25Low Block Traversef6B+  
26CD 3 Problem 3VB 4b 6
27Slabby Sidef3+ 16
28CD 3 Problem 5V1 5c *7
 CD BOULDER 4 TC AREA 4 - GOOD EVANS  
30CD 4 Problem 1V0 5b 1
31CD 4 Problem 2V3 6a 1
32Double Df7A 1
33CD 4 Problem 4V5 6b+ 1
34Wall and Rooff6C *12
35Hammerf4 *40
36Leaperf4 *48
37Leaper, SDSf5 15
38Evans Abovef6A+ 22
39Good Evansf6A 23
40Goshf5+ *6
41CD 4 Problem 11V0 5b 1
42CD 4 Problem 13V1 5c 1
 CD BOULDER 5 TC AREA 5 - CHARLIE BROWN -WOODSTOCK  
44Rerunf4 18
45CD 5 Problem 2V1 5c 2
46Linusf4+ 27
47Woodstockf3 30
48Lucyf5 20
49Snoopyf5 12
50CD 5 Problem 7V1 5b 2
51Wooden Wedgef5+ 15
52CD 5 Problem 9 TC Problem 7f6A 4
 CD BOULDER 6 - FOOL'S MIRROR  
54CD 6 (Fool's Mirror), Problem 1V2 5c 2
55CD 6 Problem 3VB 4c 2
56Pick Pocketf3+ 12
57Imagef4 9
58Flute Routef3 *14
59Reflectionf4 8
60Fool's Mirrorf3+ 9
 CD BOULDER 7 TC AREA 6 - SQUARE FACE  
62CD 7 Problem 1f4 1
63One Hand One Holdf5+ 5
64Side Stepf4 6
65Central Routef4 11
66Square Facef4+ 4
67Layawayf5 12
68CD 7 Problem 7V5 6b  
 CD BOULDER 8 TC AREA 7 - YMC WALL- GLEN ARETE  
70Last Linef4 4
71Revived 45f5+ 7
72Fair Ladyf6A 5
73Lancashire Hotpotf6B 4
74Mike's Wallf5+ 23
75CD 8 Problem 6V4 6a 1
76The Glen Aretef4 *87
77YMC Wallf4 *103
78Groovyf4+ 65
79Faint Heartf4+ 52
80Jimmy Jumpf4 40
81Mini Aretef4 32
82Left Edgef4+ 88
83Left Edge Sitterf5+ 8
84The Holef4 88
85The Hole Sitterf5+ 5
86Chart Topperf5+ 45
87CD 8 Problem 16V0 5a+ 8
88CD 8 Problem 17VB 4c 11
89Golden Oldief4 121
90Golden Oldie, SDSf5+ 38
91CD 8 Problem 19VB 5a 12
92Block Traversef6C 2
 CD BOULDER 9 TC AREA 8 - JOHN AREA- GROOVED ARETE  
94Stretchf4 53
95Grooved Aretef3 127
96Reach for the Skyf4+ 115
97Reach for the Pief4 76
98Kate's Horrorf2+ 94
99TC 8 Unnamed Traversef6C 7
100Stumpf4 80
101TC 8b Problem 2f4 29
102Gensingf3 107
103Johnf4 133
104CD 9 Problem 10V3 5c+ 9
105The John Traversef5 17
106John's Footless Traverse - John Area, CD Problem 11V5 6a *2
107TC 8b Wooden Wedgef5+ 26
108CD 9 Problem 12V2 5c 7
 CD BOULDER 10 TC AREA 9 - LEAPER ROOF  
110Lemmingf4 26
111Jug for a Thugf5 *105
112Leaperf5+ *90
113Leaper Roof Extension (TC 9a Problem 3)f6A 3
114Leaper LeapV0 5b 4
115Leaper Leap FootlessV1 5b 3
116Leaper Roof, Problem 4V3 6a 9
117Leaper Roof, Problem 5V2 6a 7
118Leaper Roof, Problem 6V2 5c 9
119Lemurf6A 27
 LEAPER TRAVERSE  
121Leaper Traversef6A **67
122CD 11 Problem 2f6B 4
123Leaper Footless TraverseV2 5b 1
124Leaper Eliminate Traversef6C 18
 CD BOULDER 11 TC AREAS 10 & 11 - BARBEQUE RIB - LOW ROOF - CRANK  
126Glen Campus Onef6A+ *17
127CD 11 Problem 4 Extensionf6B 3
128Glen Campus Twof6B+ 6
129Glen Campus Threef6B *15
130Glen Campus Fourf6B 3
131Low Roof (Glen Campus) Traversef7B 8
132Glen Campus High Traversef7A *1
133ChalkWallf3+ 13
134Pete's Wallf4+  
135Hidden Gemf6B *14
136Squeezed Chimneyf3+ 14
137Spare Ribf4 24
138Barbeque Ribf4+ *15
139Stewpotf4 31
140Crankf5+ 33
141Crank Itf6A 18
142Rat Runf6B 6
 CD BOULDER 12 TC AREA 12 DONNER AND BLITZEN- MILLSTONE GRIT  
144CD 12 Problem 1VB 4b 2
145CD 12 Problem 2V3 5b 3
146Bonnie's Wallf4+ *52
147Adolphf6A 29
148CD 12 Problem 6V1 5b 2
149B-Team Traversef6B+ 2
150Donnaf6A 57
151Rudolph (Millstone)f6C **22
152Millstone Gritf7B ***10
153Sleighridef6B+ 6
154Blitzenf5+ *49
155CD 12 Problem 14V3 5c 1
156CD 12 Problem 15VB 4b 2
 CD BOULDER 13 TC AREA 13 - RED WALL  
158CD 13 Problem 1f4+ 3
159Nicelyf4+ 20
160Don't Fall Offf6A 5
161Last Editionf6A 2
162Circuit Breakerf6B 1
163Lurcherf6A 31
164Lurchf5+ 59
165Red Wallf6A 34
166Cracked Ribf5 50
167Flake Wallf4 48
168Open Bookf3 31
169Hairlinef4+ 45
170Hairline SDSf5+ *13
171Red Wall Traversef6B 9
172Prowf5 66
173CD 13 Problem 15V2 5c 5
174Easy ChimneyVB 2c 14
175Un-Original Routef4+ 8
176Original Routef3 14
177Banana Flakef3+ *14
 CD B 14 TC AREAS 14 &15 NOSEY PARKER AREA - KENS ARETE - PARKER  
179Funnywallf6A 2
180Funny Movef5 16
181Ken's Aretef6A *15
182Mike's Mantlef6A+ *7
183Tree CrackVB 4c 24
184Green Wallf4+ 44
185Green Aretef4 46
186CD 14 Problem 9V2 5c 2
187CD 14 Problem 10V5 6b  
188Honey I shrunk the kids.f7B **8
189Honey I Shrunk The Kids (Stand Start)f6A+ *9
190The Pinchf7B+ 1
191Why Crackf4 56
192Why Crack Right Hand Variantf6A 10
193Adieu Les Patisseriesf6A 17
194SidepullV5 6b 13
195Laybackf5 13
196Parkerf7A+ 59
197Parker SDSf7B+ ***14
198Lady Penelopef7B ***2
199Lady Penelope, SDSf7C ***1
200Noseyf5+ 35
201Nosey, SDSf6A *6
202Short Sidef4 17
203Small Slab L aretef3 4b 34
204Small Slab Centref4+ 44
205Small Slab RHf3+ 28
206Slab Traversef6B+ 19
207Monkey Businessf7A  
 CD BOULDER 15 TC AREAS 16 & 17 MANSON'S WALL - RED BARON  
209CD 15 Problem 1V6 6b  
210Omof6B *4
211White Washf5+ *1
212Dazf6A+ *63
213Off Stump Wallf4+ 3
214Stump Crackf2+ 18
215Manson's Wallf6C ***78
216Phil's Wallf7A+ **19
217Vimf6A+ 44
218Smearf6A 49
219Three Moves Wallf4 30
220Straight Crackf4 17
221Undercrackerf6B+ 8
222By-Passf5+ 13
223Amalgamf6A+ 4
224Red Baronf7A+ ***94
225Red Baron Rooff7C+ **3
226Dead Baronf8A  
227Simian Traversef5+ 4
228The Gangwayf2 28
229The Dobbyf5 12
 CD BOULDER 16 TC AREA 18 SLOPING/SLOPEY TRAVERSE  
231Slopey (JD's) Traversef7C  
232CD 16 Problem 2V3 6b  
 TC AREA 19 LONGY'S TRAVERSE  
234Longy's Traversef7A **3
 CD BOULDER 17 TC AREA 20 - RUPERT BEAR  
236Mystery Aretef4+  
237Mysteryf4+  
238Samf4 ***32
239Rupert Bearf4 *36
240Paddyf4 *34
241Big Break Traversef4+ 9
242Fat Aretef5+ 7
243Fatter Aretef5 16
244Short and Reachyf4+ 20
 CD BOULDER 18 TC AREA 21 WOOD'S WALL- MANSON'S MUST  
246Al's Aretef5+ 26
247The Vaultf6C+ 1
248Manson's Mustf6B ***20
249Wood's Crackf3+ 7
250Raspberryf5+ 22
251Wood's Aretef5+ 8
252Wood's Wallf6A 22
253CD 18 Problem 7V3 5c 3
254CD 18 Problem 8V4 6a 2
 CD BOULDER 19 TC AREA 22 - PHANTOM AREA- PHANTOM OF THE OPERA  
256CD 19 Problem 1V3 6a 3
257Phantom of the Operaf6A+ **5
258Phantom Wallf6B **6
259Phantom Ribf6A 39
260Phantomf4 16
261Reaching Out For Samf5+ 4
262Phantom Crackf3+ 7
263Climbloxf6B+  
264Saplinkf5+ 10
 CD BOULDER 20 TC AREA 23 & 24 - KIA-ORA WALL - HAMILL'S HORROR  
266Green Lifef4 6
267Green Deathf6A 7
268ClopperV3 5c ***3
269Clopper PromenadeV3 5c+ ***1
270Don't Botherf4 4
271Next Aretef5+ 12
272Green Traversef6B+ 10
273Step Downf6A 9
274Step Upf5+ 16
275Old Crackf4 19
276Interstella Overdrivef6B 1
277Original Routef3+ 13
278Echinococcusf6C+  
279Kia Ora Wallf5+ 21
280Brush Offf6B 3
281Vee Podf4+ *5
282Old Peterf5 7
283Classic Rockf3+ 9
284Glen's Mantlef4+ 20
285Hammill's Horrorf6B+  
286Austin's Hangoverf5+ 6
287CD20 Problem 26V1 5b 2
288Autumn Traversef4 5
289Good Gollyf6B 3
290Jam Crackf5+ 18
291The Nobblerf6B+ 5
 CD B 21 TC A 24 & 25 CHIPPED HOLD - HAMMIL'S HORROR - SCOOP DIR  
293CD 21 Problem 1V2 5c 1
294Nought To Fearf5+ 13
295Fearnoughtf5+ 45
296Dreadnoughtf7A 2
297Deep Chimneyf3 13
298Pillar Ribf5+ 28
299Pillar Rockf5+ *22
300Scoop Aretef5+ *27
301Scoop Directf5+ *31
302Scoopf3+ 40
303Paddy's SaunterM 3a 39
304K.C Aretef2 5
305CD 21 Problem 15f3+ 5
 CD B 22 TC A 25,26,27 &28,SCOOP DIR,TIGER WALL -EASY W, GREEN T  
307CD 22 Problem 1V2 5b 5
308CD 22 Problem 3V3 5c+ 5
309Pirouettef5 *71
310Wool Manf5+ *31
311Flake CrackVB 2c 19
312Tiger Wallf5 *39
313Shoddy Wallf3+ 25
314Mouse Wallf6A+ *27
315CD 22 Problem 10V3 5c 1
316Green Ribf4 14
317Easy Groovef3+ 38
318Diagonalf3+ 10
319Easy Wallf3+ 43
320CD 22 Problem 15VB 4b 11
321Easy Routef3 48
322The Green Traversef7A **12
323CD 22 Problem 25VB easy 8
324CD 22 Problem 26VB 4a 8
325CD 22 Problem 27VB 4a 7
326CD 22 Problem 28VB easy 9
 CD BOULDER 23 - BLACK ROOF  
328CD 23 Problem 1V5 6b  
329CD 23 Problem 2V7 6c  
330CD 23 Problem 3V7 6c  
331CD 23 Problem 4V7 6c  
 OTHER ROUTES  
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There is a lot of broken glass around glen arÍte area
Steve H87 - 04/Dec/12