Shipley Glen

Climbs 303 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A low crag only really suitable for bouldering or soloing.

Can be green towards the pub end during winter months.

Area around John Wall is best with a high concentration of clean problems around 4b-6b.

Lots of the problems involve climbing up small holds on numerous breaks, but there is a mix of sit-downs, traverses, slabs, aretes and overhangs.

CD = Cameron Duff 2000

TC = Total Climbing 2008

Access notes
No access problems- park along the top at several small parking bays.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 2 (2014), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2008), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2001), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 GOD IS LOVE  
2Jesus Savesf5  
3God Graffiti'sf6B  
4God is Lovef4  
5God is Love Traversef6A  
 CD BOULDER 1 TC AREA 1 - DOG'S DINNER BUTTRESS  
7Doggingf5 47
8Doggerf4+ *48
9Dog's Dinner Directf5 16
10Dog's Dinnerf4 **46
11CD 1 Problem 5V0 5b 5
 CD BOULDER 2 TC AREA 2 - CHRISTINE'S HORROR- KESTREL CRACK  
13Sparrow Hawkf4 47
14CD 2 Problem 2VB 5a+ 3
15Falconf5+ **42
16Kestrel Crackf4+ ***76
17Fowlerf5+ ***37
18CD 2 Problem 6V1 5c 7
19The Blair Witchf5+ 13
20Voodoo Dollf6A 15
21Higher Terraf4+ 14
22Christine's Horrorf4+ 28
 CD BOULDER 3 TC AREA 3 - LOW BLOCK - THE PRESS  
24The Pressf4+ 9
25Low Block Traversef6B+  
26CD 3 Problem 3VB 4b 5
27Slabby Sidef3+ 11
28CD 3 Problem 5V1 5c *7
 CD BOULDER 4 TC AREA 4 - GOOD EVANS  
30CD 4 Problem 1V0 5b 1
31CD 4 Problem 2V3 6a 1
32Double Df7A  
33CD 4 Problem 4V5 6b+ 1
34Wall and Rooff6C *11
35Hammerf4 *31
36Leaperf4 *38
37Leaper, SDSf5 8
38Evans Abovef6A+ 18
39Good Evansf6A 19
40Goshf5+ *5
41CD 4 Problem 11V0 5b 1
42CD 4 Problem 13V1 5c 1
 CD BOULDER 5 TC AREA 5 - CHARLIE BROWN -WOODSTOCK  
44Rerunf4 17
45CD 5 Problem 2V1 5c 2
46Linusf4+ 22
47Woodstockf3 24
48Lucyf5 16
49Snoopyf5 8
50CD 5 Problem 7V1 5b 1
51Wooden Wedgef5+ 10
52CD 5 Problem 9 TC Problem 7f6A 3
 CD BOULDER 6 - FOOL'S MIRROR  
54CD 6 (Fool's Mirror), Problem 1V2 5c 1
55CD 6 Problem 3VB 4c 1
56Pick Pocketf3+ 11
57Imagef4 6
58Flute Routef3 *11
59Reflectionf4 5
60Fool's Mirrorf3+ 6
 CD BOULDER 7 TC AREA 6 - SQUARE FACE  
62CD 7 Problem 1f4 1
63One Hand One Holdf5+ 4
64Side Stepf4 5
65Central Routef4 11
66Square Facef4+ 4
67Layawayf5 11
68CD 7 Problem 7V5 6b  
 CD BOULDER 8 TC AREA 7 - YMC WALL- GLEN ARETE  
70Last Linef4 4
71Revived 45f5+ 7
72Fair Ladyf6A 5
73Lancashire Hotpotf6B 4
74Mike's Wallf5+ 21
75CD 8 Problem 6V4 6a 1
76The Glen Aretef4 *78
77YMC Wallf4 *91
78Groovyf4+ 55
79Faint Heartf4+ 41
80Jimmy Jumpf4 33
81Mini Aretef4 19
82Left Edgef4+ 73
83Left Edge Sitterf5+ 4
84The Holef4 76
85The Hole Sitterf5+ 3
86Chart Topperf5+ 38
87CD 8 Problem 16V0 5a+ 7
88CD 8 Problem 17VB 4c 9
89Golden Oldief4 104
90Golden Oldie, SDSf5+ 27
91CD 8 Problem 19VB 5a 10
92Block Traversef6C  
 CD BOULDER 9 TC AREA 8 - JOHN AREA- GROOVED ARETE  
94Stretchf4 48
95Grooved Aretef3 114
96Reach for the Skyf4+ 100
97Reach for the Pief4 61
98Kate's Horrorf2+ 81
99TC 8 Unnamed Traversef6C 6
100Stumpf4 71
101TC 8b Problem 2f4 26
102Gensingf3 94
103Johnf4 113
104CD 9 Problem 10V3 5c+ 9
105The John Traversef5 14
106John's Footless Traverse - John Area, CD Problem 11V5 6a *2
107TC 8b Wooden Wedgef5+ 22
108CD 9 Problem 12V2 5c 6
 CD BOULDER 10 TC AREA 9 - LEAPER ROOF  
110Lemmingf4 20
111Jug for a Thugf5 *91
112Leaperf5+ *81
113Leaper LeapV0 5b 2
114Leaper Leap FootlessV1 5b 2
115Leaper Roof, Problem 4V3 6a 7
116Leaper Roof, Problem 5V2 6a 6
117Leaper Roof, Problem 6V2 5c 8
118Lemurf6A 23
 LEAPER TRAVERSE  
120Leaper Traversef6A **59
121CD 11 Problem 2f6B 3
122Leaper Footless TraverseV2 5b 1
123Leaper Eliminate Traversef6C 15
 CD BOULDER 11 TC AREAS 10 & 11 - BARBEQUE RIB - LOW ROOF - CRANK  
125Glen Campus Onef6A+ *13
126CD 11 Problem 4 Extensionf6B 3
127Glen Campus Twof6B+ 1
128Glen Campus Threef6B *10
129Glen Campus Fourf6B 1
130Low Roof (Glen Campus) Traversef7B 7
131ChalkWallf3+ 13
132Pete's Wallf4+  
133Hidden Gemf6B *5
134Squeezed Chimneyf3+ 13
135Spare Ribf4 23
136Barbeque Ribf4+ *11
137Stewpotf4 28
138Crankf5+ 27
139Crank Itf6A 16
140Rat Runf6B 6
 CD BOULDER 12 TC AREA 12 DONNER AND BLITZEN- MILLSTONE GRIT  
142CD 12 Problem 1VB 4b 2
143CD 12 Problem 2V3 5b 2
144Bonnie's Wallf4+ *46
145Adolphf6A 26
146CD 12 Problem 6V1 5b 2
147B-Team Traversef6B+ 2
148Donnaf6A 51
149Rudolph (Millstone)f6C **20
150Millstone Gritf7B ***9
151Sleighridef6B+ 4
152Blitzenf5+ *44
153CD 12 Problem 14V3 5c 1
154CD 12 Problem 15VB 4b 2
 CD BOULDER 13 TC AREA 13 - RED WALL  
156CD 13 Problem 1f4+ 3
157Nicelyf4+ 17
158Don't Fall Offf6A 2
159Last Editionf6A 1
160Circuit Breakerf6B 1
161Lurcherf6A 23
162Lurchf5+ 52
163Red Wallf6A 30
164Cracked Ribf5 45
165Flake Wallf4 40
166Open Bookf3 27
167Hairlinef4+ 39
168Hairline SDSf5+ *10
169Red Wall Traversef6B 4
170Prowf5 57
171CD 13 Problem 15V2 5c 5
172Easy ChimneyVB 2c 12
173Un-Original Routef4+ 7
174Original Routef3 12
175Banana Flakef3+ *11
 CD B 14 TC AREAS 14 &15 NOSEY PARKER AREA - KENS ARETE - PARKER  
177Funnywallf6A  
178Funny Movef5 14
179Ken's Aretef6A *13
180Mike's Mantlef6A+ *6
181Tree CrackVB 4c 22
182Green Wallf4+ 42
183Green Aretef4 44
184CD 14 Problem 9V2 5c 2
185CD 14 Problem 10V5 6b  
186Honey I shrunk the kids.f7B **6
187Honey I Shrunk The Kids (Stand Start)f6A+ *5
188The Pinchf7B+  
189Why Crackf4 47
190Why Crack Right Hand Variantf6A 6
191Adieu Les Patisseriesf6A 10
192SidepullV5 6b 10
193Laybackf5 9
194Parkerf7A+ 49
195Parker SDSf7B+ ***12
196Lady Penelopef7B ***2
197Lady Penelope, SDSf7C ***1
198Noseyf5+ 29
199Nosey, SDSf6A *6
200Short Sidef4 15
201Small Slab L aretef3 4b 30
202Small Slab Centref4+ 37
203Small Slab RHf3+ 24
204Slab Traversef6B+ 16
205Monkey Businessf7A  
 CD BOULDER 15 TC AREAS 16 & 17 MANSON'S WALL - RED BARON  
207CD 15 Problem 1V6 6b  
208Omof6B *4
209White Washf5+ *1
210Dazf6A+ *59
211Off Stump Wallf4+ 2
212Stump Crackf2+ 17
213Manson's Wallf6C ***77
214Phil's Wallf7A+ **18
215Vimf6A+ 41
216Smearf6A 44
217Three Moves Wallf4 25
218Straight Crackf4 12
219Undercrackerf6B+ 5
220By-Passf5+ 8
221Amalgamf6A+ 3
222Red Baronf7A+ ***88
223Red Baron Rooff7C+ **3
224Dead Baronf8A  
225Simian Traversef5+ 3
226The Gangwayf2 25
227The Dobbyf5 10
 CD BOULDER 16 TC AREA 18 SLOPING/SLOPEY TRAVERSE  
229Slopey (JD's) Traversef7C  
230CD 16 Problem 2V3 6b  
 TC AREA 19 LONGY'S TRAVERSE  
232Longy's Traversef7A **3
 CD BOULDER 17 TC AREA 20 - RUPERT BEAR  
234Mystery Aretef4+  
235Mysteryf4+  
236Samf4 ***27
237Rupert Bearf4 *31
238Paddyf4 *29
239Big Break Traversef4+ 5
240Fat Aretef5+ 4
241Fatter Aretef5 13
242Short and Reachyf4+ 16
 CD BOULDER 18 TC AREA 21 WOOD'S WALL- MANSON'S MUST  
244Al's Aretef5+ 24
245The Vaultf6C+ 1
246Manson's Mustf6B ***20
247Wood's Crackf3+ 7
248Raspberryf5+ 22
249Wood's Aretef5+ 7
250Wood's Wallf6A 21
251CD 18 Problem 7V3 5c 2
252CD 18 Problem 8V4 6a 2
 CD BOULDER 19 TC AREA 22 - PHANTOM AREA- PHANTOM OF THE OPERA  
254CD 19 Problem 1V3 6a 3
255Phantom of the Operaf6A+ **4
256Phantom Wallf6B **6
257Phantom Ribf6A 39
258Phantomf4 16
259Reaching Out For Samf5+ 4
260Phantom Crackf3+ 7
261Climbloxf6B+  
262Saplinkf5+ 10
 CD BOULDER 20 TC AREA 23 & 24 - KIA-ORA WALL - HAMILL'S HORROR  
264Green Lifef4 6
265Green Deathf6A 6
266ClopperV3 5c ***3
267Clopper PromenadeV3 5c+ ***1
268Don't Botherf4 4
269Next Aretef5+ 11
270Green Traversef6B+ 8
271Step Downf6A 9
272Step Upf5+ 15
273Old Crackf4 15
274Interstella Overdrivef6B 1
275Original Routef3+ 12
276Echinococcusf6C+  
277Kia Ora Wallf5+ 19
278Brush Offf6B 3
279Vee Podf4+ *5
280Old Peterf5 7
281Classic Rockf3+ 8
282Glen's Mantlef4+ 17
283Hammill's Horrorf6B+  
284Austin's Hangoverf5+ 6
285CD20 Problem 26V1 5b 2
286Autumn Traversef4 4
287Good Gollyf6B 3
288Jam Crackf5+ 18
289The Nobblerf6B+ 5
 CD B 21 TC A 24 & 25 CHIPPED HOLD - HAMMIL'S HORROR - SCOOP DIR  
291CD 21 Problem 1V2 5c 1
292Nought To Fearf5+ 13
293Fearnoughtf5+ 42
294Dreadnoughtf7A 2
295Deep Chimneyf3 13
296Pillar Ribf5+ 26
297Pillar Rockf5+ *21
298Scoop Aretef5+ *24
299Scoop Directf5+ *28
300Scoopf3+ 38
301Paddy's SaunterM 3a 38
302K.C Aretef2 5
303CD 21 Problem 15f3+ 5
 CD B 22 TC A 25,26,27 &28,SCOOP DIR,TIGER WALL -EASY W, GREEN T  
305CD 22 Problem 1V2 5b 5
306CD 22 Problem 3V3 5c+ 5
307Pirouettef5 *66
308Wool Manf5+ *29
309Flake CrackVB 2c 18
310Tiger Wallf5 *36
311Shoddy Wallf3+ 23
312Mouse Wallf6A+ *26
313CD 22 Problem 10V3 5c 1
314Green Ribf4 13
315Easy Groovef3+ 37
316Diagonalf3+ 9
317Easy Wallf3+ 42
318CD 22 Problem 15VB 4b 11
319Easy Routef3 48
320The Green Traversef7A **11
321CD 22 Problem 25VB easy 8
322CD 22 Problem 26VB 4a 8
323CD 22 Problem 27VB 4a 7
324CD 22 Problem 28VB easy 9
 CD BOULDER 23 - BLACK ROOF  
326CD 23 Problem 1V5 6b  
327CD 23 Problem 2V7 6c  
328CD 23 Problem 3V7 6c  
329CD 23 Problem 4V7 6c  
 OTHER ROUTES  
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There is a lot of broken glass around glen arÍte area
Steve H87 - 04/Dec/12