Climbs 41
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces W

You'll never guess which way the wind blows round here ....... © Lankyman

Crag features

Humphrey Head is a strange spot befitting of its weird name. The crag is positioned on a remote headland in the midst of Morecombe Bay's vast tidal sand flats where the sea can be sensed but rarely glimpsed. Like Scout Scar, Humphrey Head is a difficult crag to characterise but it is fair to say that the best routes are worth travelling for and, being at sea level, the weather is often far better than elsewhere in the region. The limestone is not as good as the perfect white stuff found at Chapel Head but on the whole the rock is reasonable on the recommended routes but can be poor if one strays from these. Undoubtededly the best routes are in the upper grades and are bolted or semi-bolted. Due to the unstable ground at the top of the crag lower-offs line the rim of the main crag.

Approach notes

From Junction 36 of the M6 follow signs for Kendal and Barrow on the A591 and at the first exit on the A591 follow the signs for Barrow on the A590. Pass the obvious crag of White Scar and continue to a roundabout. Take the B5277 to Grange-over-Sands. Follow the road all the way through the town and then on to the village of Allithwaite. On exiting the village turn left on the minor road signed to Humphrey Head.

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Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
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Routes on main wall quite hard, can be a bit overgrown, fixed gear often suspect... but it's a lovely spot and you won't find queues on the routes.
Clive Allen - 01/Mar/07
Humphrey Head is beautiful, i visited in 1995 with my primary school and loved it. it is great for scrambling and the wolfs cave(where the last wolves in england supposedly lived) is of particular interest. Care should be taken on the beach though as there is an amount of sinking sand. All in all a wonderful place with fond memories.
sam hewitt - 14/Mar/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Main Area 
2Sniffing the Saddle6a+ *10
3Sniffing the Saddle Direct6a+ 4
4FusionE3 6a *1
5Trigger FingerE2 5c **21
6Shot By Both Sides7a *8
7Firing Squad7a+ **11
8Live Rounds7a+ *1
9Shooting the Load7a * 
10Humphrey Hymen Met a Sly Man7b+ **6
11Stymen6c *28
12Pork Pie6b *33
13Humphrey Bogart7a+ *4
 Upper Buttress 
15Humphrey Dumphrey6a *10
16Engelbert Humphreding7b 1
17Mr Self-destruct7b  
 The Arch 
19Back Into the Future7c * 
20Mindfields7a+ ** 
21Head Like a Hole8b+  
22Hollow Lands6c *2
23Slightly Shoddy7a 2
25crinkle wall
f6A *4
E1 5b 1
27The Corner Crack
f3 10
28the layback corner
f4 9
29the diagonal crack
f4+ 9
30trad crack
f5+ 8
31end wall
f4 4
HVS 5a *10
33Where bolters fear to tread
HVS 5a 2
34The JobE1 5c 1
35Sir Edgar's Crack
VS 4c 2
HVS 5a 1
37Roof Cornerf5+ *7
38Pocket Problemf6A *7
39The Traversef5+ **4
40Sanctumf7A *1
41The Low Traversef6B 1
42Humphrey Cushion7a 3
E2 5b 1
44Crinkle Wall Alternativef4+ 1
45Dodgy Fingersf5 *1

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