Humphrey Head

Climbs 41 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude Tidal – Faces W

Crag features
Humphrey Head is a strange spot befitting of its weird name. The crag is positioned on a remote headland in the midst of Morecombe Bay's vast tidal sand flats where the sea can be sensed but rarely glimpsed. Like Scout Scar, Humphrey Head is a difficult crag to characterise but it is fair to say that the best routes are worth travelling for and, being at sea level, the weather is often far better than elsewhere in the region. The limestone is not as good as the perfect white stuff found at Chapel Head but on the whole the rock is reasonable on the recommended routes but can be poor if one strays from these. Undoubtededly the best routes are in the upper grades and are bolted or semi-bolted. Due to the unstable ground at the top of the crag lower-offs line the rim of the main crag.

Approach notes
From Junction 36 of the M6 follow signs for Kendal and Barrow on the A591 and at the first exit on the A591 follow the signs for Barrow on the A590. Pass the obvious crag of White Scar and continue to a roundabout. Take the B5277 to Grange-over-Sands. Follow the road all the way through the town and then on to the village of Allithwaite. On exiting the village turn left on the minor road signed to Humphrey Head.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire (2015),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Sniffing the Saddle6a+ *10
3Sniffing the Saddle Direct6a+ 4
4FusionE3 6a *1
5Trigger FingerE2 5c **21
6Shot By Both Sides7a *8
7Firing Squad7a+ **11
8Live Rounds7a+ *1
9Shooting the Load7a * 
10Humphrey Hymen Met a Sly Man7b+ **6
11Stymen6c *28
12Pork Pie6b *33
13Humphrey Bogart7a+ *4
15Humphrey Dumphrey6a *10
16Engelbert Humphreding7b 1
17Mr Self-destruct7b  
19Back Into the Future7c * 
20Mindfields7a+ ** 
21Head Like a Hole8b+  
22Hollow Lands6c *2
23Slightly Shoddy7a 2
25crinkle wallV3 *4
26NodaE1 5b 1
27The Corner CrackVB 10
28the layback cornerV0 5a 9
29the diagonal crackV0+ 5b 9
30trad crackV2 6a 8
31end wallV0 5a 4
32JanuaryHVS 5a *10
33Where bolters fear to treadHVS 5a 2
34The JobE1 5c 1
35Sir Edgar's CrackVS 4c 2
36OktoberfestHVS 5a 1
37Roof CornerV2 6a *7
38Pocket ProblemV3 *7
39The TraverseV2 **4
40Sanctumf7A *1
41The Low TraverseV4 1
42Humphrey Cushion7a 3
433-2-1E2 5b 1
44Crinkle Wall AlternativeV0+ 1
45Dodgy FingersV1 *1
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Routes on main wall quite hard, can be a bit overgrown, fixed gear often suspect... but it's a lovely spot and you won't find queues on the routes.
Clive Allen - 01/Mar/07
Humphrey Head is beautiful, i visited in 1995 with my primary school and loved it. it is great for scrambling and the wolfs cave(where the last wolves in england supposedly lived) is of particular interest. Care should be taken on the beach though as there is an amount of sinking sand. All in all a wonderful place with fond memories.
sam hewitt - 14/Mar/05