Moel Y Gest - Foremast and Mainmast buttresses

Climbs 69 – Rocktype Welsh igneous – Altitude 219m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features

Lots of easier routes on solid rock and an impressive panorama of Cardigan Bay

Approach notes

Follow the footpath leading up from the A497 Porthmadog to Criccieth road. Park at a small lay by near the 30/40mph signs. Follow the path up past an old quarry. Take the next path up leftwards to a col where you take the path on the right. Follow this uphill to the western summit of Moel Y Gest, then drop down to a col and then to a stone wall. Follow this rightward to Mainmast and Bulkhead Buttresses. Accessing Mainmast during the summer months can be a problem due to head height bracken. Best to abseil in from a fixed wire sling anchor (beneath a boulder) at the top of Wardroom Crack. Foremast is directly above Tyddyn Llwyn Caravan Park. Drop down from the first col and follow the wall rightward to reach a scree slope underneath the crag. The routes on this particular section are poor and not worth the effort.
Creigiau Morfa is the escarpment on the lower slopes of Moel y Gest overlooking the golf course at Morfa Bychan. Approx. 100m past the golf club house ,(parking) a public footpath on the right crosses the golf course and wanders up towards the crag, which is clearly visible. 10 mts approach. Dries almost immediately and has a pleasant situation . Not in current guide book. The escarpment continues rightward for about 100m and has lots of scope for bouldering with a reasonable grassy landing.

Guidebooks
Tremadog (2010)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 SUMMIT CLIFF  
2Arafa DonVS 4c *9
3Mor o DristwchVS 4c *13
4Ceidwad y GoleudyHVS 5a **14
5Leech LineHVS 5b 2
6CrosstreesVD  
7Loblolly BoyVS 4b **9
8Belaying PinVD 1
 MAINMAST BUTTRESS  
10Ship ShapeE1 5b *4
11Bristol FashionE1 5c  
12WindjammerMVS 4b 3
13Codi AngorS 4a 2
14JibboomHS 2
15Mizzon TopD  
16The CatheadVS 4b *6
17Mizzen ShroudsD 2
18The CatwalkD 13
19Alas Poor YoricS 4b 7
20Half MastS 1
21The Crow's NestD 14
22The Dog WatchE2 5c **4
23Jacob's LadderHS 4b *8
24Wardroom DeckheadVD 5
25Wardroom HatchVD  
26Wardroom SlabS 3
27The Fo' CastleHVS 5a 5
28Wardroom CrackVD 20
29SidebuoysS 4a 17
30Cat o' Nine TailsVS 4c *20
31Monkey's Island SuperdirectS *27
32Monkey's Island DirectS 22
33The DirectissimaVS 4c **19
34The BridgeHVS 5a **5
35Starboard GangwayD 3
36Port GangwayD 1
37Sailor Bob's Furry Spru StoolHVS 5b *14
38Signal BridgeVD *7
 BULKHEAD BUTTRESS  
40Look Back In AnchorS 22
41Cantre'r GwaelodVS 4c *20
42Antur MadogE1 5b 20
43Oh Captan, My CaptainVS 4c *7
44Black Ball LineVS 4c **4
45Fore-and-AftVS 4c *1
46Das BootE1 5c *5
47Lieutenant O HurraVS 5a 5
48Llongau MadogVS 4b *9
49Ancient MarinerHS 4b *19
50Mynd I Bala Ar y Cwch BananaE2 5c **5
51Shiver Me TimbersE1 5b 10
52Yellow FeverVS 4c 11
53Sea FeverHVS 4c 12
54Edrych Tuag AdreVS 4c  
55Avast BehindHS 4b *49
56Mynd i ForioVS 5a *31
57Fflat Huw PuwVS 5a *26
58Bulkhead RouteD 23
 FOREMAST BUTTRESS  
60Midshipman EasyHS 4b  
61The Gun TurretVD 4a  
62ForestayD  
63Bulwark SlabD  
64CutlassD  
 CREIGIAU MORFA  
66Immortal SailsS 4a * 
67MimosaS 4a * 
68The Foo Foo GangVS 4c  
69Through Mighty SeasS 4a  
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Went to Bulkhead buttress, well worth a visit, definite sun trap and after raining just before first climb rock had dried completely by second climb with little sun. Grading easy most climbs would knock a grade off but maybe this is just because i'm used to climbing more popular routes. Lovely place
Sol Armer - 12/Apr/13
very usefull topo guide can be found here: http://attachments.wetpaintserv.us/vGPrIZ7Mste%24lJt7yexJ3g%3D%3D1388349
George_Surf - 05/Aug/11
I found the crag easy to locate an locate the routes once i had fond the twin flakes mentioned on the Bulkhead route. The foot of the crag was rather over grown with ferns in August that only hindered us slightly. Given this and its locaton next to everdry tremadog i would think it would make a good alternative to the busy cliffs during autum and winter. Definatly one crag i will be visiting again.
richw2k2 - 10/Aug/06