Moel Y Gest - Foremast and Mainmast buttresses

Climbs 58 – Rocktype Welsh igneous – Altitude 219m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Lots of easier routes on solid rock and an impressive panorama of Cardigan Bay

Access notes
Follow the footpath leading up from the A497 Porthmadog to Criccieth road. Park at a small lay by near the 30/40mph signs. Follow the path up past an old quarry. Take the next path up leftwards to a col where you take the path on the right. Follow this uphill to the western summit of Moel Y Gest, then drop down to a col and then to a stone wall. Follow this rightward to Mainmast and Bulkhead Buttresses. Foremast is directly above Tyddyn Llwyn Caravan Park. Drop down from the first col and follow the wall rightward to reach a scree slope underneath the crag. The routes on the particular section are poor and not worth the effort.

Tremadog (2010)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Arafa DonVS 4c *9
3Mor o DristwchVS 4c *12
4Ceidwad y GoleudyHVS 5a **13
5Leech LineHVS 5b 2
7Loblolly BoyVS 4b **9
8Belaying PinVD 1
10Ship ShapeE1 5b *3
11Bristol FashionE1 5c  
12WindjammerMVS 4b 1
13Mizzon TopD  
14The CatheadVS 4b *6
15Mizzen ShroudsD 2
16The CatwalkD 12
17Alas Poor YoricS 4b 7
18Half MastS 1
19The Crow's NestD 13
20The Dog WatchE2 5c **3
21Jacob's LadderHS 4b *6
22Wardroom DeckheadVD 5
23Wardroom HatchVD  
24Wardroom SlabS 3
25The Fo' CastleHVS 5a 5
26Wardroom CrackVD 17
27SidebuoysS 4a 17
28Cat o' Nine TailsVS 4c *20
29Monkey's Island SuperdirectS *25
30Monkey's Island DirectS 22
31The DirectissimaVS 4c **19
32The BridgeHVS 5a **5
33Starboard GangwayD 3
34Port GangwayD 1
35Sailor Bob's Furry Spru StoolHVS 5b *14
36Signal BridgeVD *7
38Look Back In AnchorS 21
39Cantre'r GwaelodVS 4c *20
40Antur MadogE1 5b 21
41Oh Captan, My CaptainVS 4c *7
42Black Ball LineVS 4c **4
43Fore-and-AftVS 4c *1
44Das BootE1 5c *4
45Lieutenant O HurraVS 5a 4
46Llongau MadogVS 4b *9
47Ancient MarinerHS 4b *19
48Mynd I Bala Ar y Cwch BananaE2 5c **5
49Shiver Me TimbersE1 5b 10
50Yellow FeverVS 4c 10
51Sea FeverHVS 4c 12
52Edrych Tuag AdreVS 4c  
53Avast BehindHS 4b *45
54Mynd i ForioVS 5a *30
55Fflat Huw PuwVS 5a *25
56Bulkhead RouteD 23
58Midshipman EasyHS 4b  
59The Gun TurretVD 4a  
61Bulwark SlabD  
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Went to Bulkhead buttress, well worth a visit, definite sun trap and after raining just before first climb rock had dried completely by second climb with little sun. Grading easy most climbs would knock a grade off but maybe this is just because i'm used to climbing more popular routes. Lovely place
Sol Armer - 12/Apr/13
very usefull topo guide can be found here:
George_Surf - 05/Aug/11
I found the crag easy to locate an locate the routes once i had fond the twin flakes mentioned on the Bulkhead route. The foot of the crag was rather over grown with ferns in August that only hindered us slightly. Given this and its locaton next to everdry tremadog i would think it would make a good alternative to the busy cliffs during autum and winter. Definatly one crag i will be visiting again.
richw2k2 - 10/Aug/06
We found the guidebook unhelpful, and the buttresses difficult to identify. Foremast buttress was difficult to find under all the vegetation.
LittleDom - 16/Mar/05