Climbs 69
Rocktype Welsh igneous
Altitude 219m a.s.l
Faces S

Kev Davies on 1st ascent © pencarth

Crag features

Lots of easier routes on solid rock and an impressive panorama of Cardigan Bay

Approach notes

Follow the footpath leading up from the A497 Porthmadog to Criccieth road. Park at a small lay by near the 30/40mph signs. Follow the path up past an old quarry. Take the next path up leftwards to a col where you take the path on the right. Follow this uphill to the western summit of Moel Y Gest, then drop down to a col and then to a stone wall. Follow this rightward to Mainmast and Bulkhead Buttresses. Accessing Mainmast during the summer months can be a problem due to head height bracken. Best to abseil in from a fixed wire sling anchor (beneath a boulder) at the top of Wardroom Crack. Foremast is directly above Tyddyn Llwyn Caravan Park. Drop down from the first col and follow the wall rightward to reach a scree slope underneath the crag. The routes on this particular section are poor and not worth the effort.
Creigiau Morfa is the escarpment on the lower slopes of Moel y Gest overlooking the golf course at Morfa Bychan. Approx. 100m past the golf club house ,(parking) a public footpath on the right crosses the golf course and wanders up towards the crag, which is clearly visible. 10 mts approach. Dries almost immediately and has a pleasant situation . Not in current guide book. The escarpment continues rightward for about 100m and has lots of scope for bouldering with a reasonable grassy landing.


Went to Bulkhead buttress, well worth a visit, definite sun trap and after raining just before first climb rock had dried completely by second climb with little sun. Grading easy most climbs would knock a grade off but maybe this is just because i'm used to climbing more popular routes. Lovely place
Sol Armer - 12/Apr/13
very usefull topo guide can be found here:
George_Surf - 05/Aug/11
I found the crag easy to locate an locate the routes once i had fond the twin flakes mentioned on the Bulkhead route. The foot of the crag was rather over grown with ferns in August that only hindered us slightly. Given this and its locaton next to everdry tremadog i would think it would make a good alternative to the busy cliffs during autum and winter. Definatly one crag i will be visiting again.
richw2k2 - 10/Aug/06
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Summit Cliff 
2Arafa DonVS 4c *9
3Mor o DristwchVS 4c *13
4Ceidwad y GoleudyHVS 5a **14
5Leech LineHVS 5b 2
7Loblolly BoyVS 4b **9
8Belaying Pin
VD 1
 Mainmast Buttress 
10Ship Shape
E1 5b *4
11Bristol Fashion
E1 5c  
12WindjammerMVS 4b 3
13Codi AngorS 4a 2
14JibboomHS 2
15Mizzon Top
16The Cathead
VS 4b *6
17Mizzen Shrouds
D 2
18The CatwalkD 14
19Alas Poor Yoric
S 4b 7
20Half Mast
S 1
21The Crow's Nest
D 14
22The Dog Watch
E2 5c **4
23Jacob's LadderHS 4b *8
24Wardroom Deckhead
VD 6
25Wardroom HatchVD  
26Wardroom Slab
S 3
27The Fo' Castle
HVS 5a 5
28Wardroom CrackVD 21
29SidebuoysS 4a 17
30Cat o' Nine Tails
VS 4c *20
31Monkey's Island Superdirect
S *28
32Monkey's Island Direct
S 22
33The Directissima
VS 4c **20
34The Bridge
HVS 5a **5
35Starboard GangwayD 3
36Port Gangway
D 1
37Sailor Bob's Furry Spru Stool
HVS 5b *16
38Signal Bridge
VD *7
 Bulkhead Buttress 
40Look Back In Anchor
S 22
41Cantre'r GwaelodVS 4c *21
42Antur MadogE1 5b 21
43Oh Captan, My CaptainVS 4c *8
44Black Ball LineVS 4c **4
45Fore-and-AftVS 4c *1
46Das Boot
E1 5c *5
47Lieutenant O HurraVS 5a 6
48Llongau MadogVS 4b *10
49Ancient MarinerHS 4b *20
50Mynd I Bala Ar y Cwch Banana
E2 5c **5
51Shiver Me Timbers
E1 5b 10
52Yellow Fever
VS 4c 11
53Sea Fever
HVS 4c 13
54Edrych Tuag AdreVS 4c  
55Avast Behind
HS 4b *50
56Mynd i Forio
VS 5a *32
57Fflat Huw Puw
VS 5a *27
58Bulkhead RouteD 23
 Foremast Buttress 
60Midshipman EasyHS 4b  
61The Gun TurretVD 4a  
63Bulwark SlabD  
 Creigiau Morfa 
66Immortal SailsS 4a * 
67MimosaS 4a * 
68The Foo Foo GangVS 4c  
69Through Mighty SeasS 4a  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Pencarth