Moel Y Gest - Foremast and Mainmast buttresses

Climbs 60 – Rocktype Welsh igneous – Altitude 219m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Lots of easier routes on solid rock and an impressive panorama of Cardigan Bay

Access notes
Follow the footpath leading up from the A497 Porthmadog to Criccieth road. Park at a small lay by near the 30/40mph signs. Follow the path up past an old quarry. Take the next path up leftwards to a col where you take the path on the right. Follow this uphill to the western summit of Moel Y Gest, then drop down to a col and then to a stone wall. Follow this rightward to Mainmast and Bulkhead Buttresses. Accessing Mainmast during the summer months can be a problem due to head height bracken. Best to abseil in from a fixed wire sling anchor (beneath a boulder) at the top of Wardroom Crack. Foremast is directly above Tyddyn Llwyn Caravan Park. Drop down from the first col and follow the wall rightward to reach a scree slope underneath the crag. The routes on the particular section are poor and not worth the effort.

Tremadog (2010)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Arafa DonVS 4c *9
3Mor o DristwchVS 4c *12
4Ceidwad y GoleudyHVS 5a **13
5Leech LineHVS 5b 2
7Loblolly BoyVS 4b **9
8Belaying PinVD 1
10Ship ShapeE1 5b *3
11Bristol FashionE1 5c  
12WindjammerMVS 4b 1
13Codi AngorS 4a  
15Mizzon TopD  
16The CatheadVS 4b *6
17Mizzen ShroudsD 2
18The CatwalkD 12
19Alas Poor YoricS 4b 7
20Half MastS 1
21The Crow's NestD 13
22The Dog WatchE2 5c **3
23Jacob's LadderHS 4b *6
24Wardroom DeckheadVD 5
25Wardroom HatchVD  
26Wardroom SlabS 3
27The Fo' CastleHVS 5a 5
28Wardroom CrackVD 17
29SidebuoysS 4a 17
30Cat o' Nine TailsVS 4c *20
31Monkey's Island SuperdirectS *25
32Monkey's Island DirectS 22
33The DirectissimaVS 4c **19
34The BridgeHVS 5a **5
35Starboard GangwayD 3
36Port GangwayD 1
37Sailor Bob's Furry Spru StoolHVS 5b *14
38Signal BridgeVD *7
40Look Back In AnchorS 22
41Cantre'r GwaelodVS 4c *20
42Antur MadogE1 5b 21
43Oh Captan, My CaptainVS 4c *7
44Black Ball LineVS 4c **4
45Fore-and-AftVS 4c *1
46Das BootE1 5c *5
47Lieutenant O HurraVS 5a 5
48Llongau MadogVS 4b *9
49Ancient MarinerHS 4b *19
50Mynd I Bala Ar y Cwch BananaE2 5c **5
51Shiver Me TimbersE1 5b 10
52Yellow FeverVS 4c 10
53Sea FeverHVS 4c 12
54Edrych Tuag AdreVS 4c  
55Avast BehindHS 4b *46
56Mynd i ForioVS 5a *31
57Fflat Huw PuwVS 5a *25
58Bulkhead RouteD 23
60Midshipman EasyHS 4b  
61The Gun TurretVD 4a  
63Bulwark SlabD  
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Went to Bulkhead buttress, well worth a visit, definite sun trap and after raining just before first climb rock had dried completely by second climb with little sun. Grading easy most climbs would knock a grade off but maybe this is just because i'm used to climbing more popular routes. Lovely place
Sol Armer - 12/Apr/13
very usefull topo guide can be found here:
George_Surf - 05/Aug/11
I found the crag easy to locate an locate the routes once i had fond the twin flakes mentioned on the Bulkhead route. The foot of the crag was rather over grown with ferns in August that only hindered us slightly. Given this and its locaton next to everdry tremadog i would think it would make a good alternative to the busy cliffs during autum and winter. Definatly one crag i will be visiting again.
richw2k2 - 10/Aug/06
We found the guidebook unhelpful, and the buttresses difficult to identify. Foremast buttress was difficult to find under all the vegetation.
LittleDom - 16/Mar/05