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These details were last updated on 10/Aug/2010

Dovestone Tor

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 156 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 600m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
The Derwent Edges are a line of weathered outcrops with a splendid outlook over the Derwent reservoirs. The longer approaches mean they are never busy, and you won't find any polished holds on the rough grit! With the exception of Dovestone Tor (20m) few outcrops are higher than 8m and coupled with recent bouldering developments make this a pleasant soloing venue. Dovestone Tor itself has many excellent routes, mainly in the low to middle grades, of which the best is Great Buttress (E1 5b).

Weather forecast

 Today  Mon  Tue  Wed  Thu 
     
Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales – Met Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Eastern Grit (2006), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994), Peak Climbs - Stanage (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Rockfax Fax09 P1V1 5c 1
2Rockfax Fax09 P2V3 6a 1
3Rockfax Fax09 P3V1 1
4Rockfax Fax09 P4V0+ 5a  
5Rockfax Fax09 P5V0 5a  
6Rockfax Fax09 P6V0 5a ** 
7Rockfax Fax09 P7V5 6b * 
8Rockfax Fax09 P8V3 6a * 
9Rockfax Fax09 P9V2 5c ** 
10Rockfax Fax09 P10V3 6a ** 
11Rockfax Fax09 P11V1 1
12Rockfax Fax09 P12V0 2
13Rockfax Fax09 P13V2 *2
14Rockfax Fax09 P14V2  
15Rockfax Fax09 P15V0 3
16Rockfax Fax09 P16V1 1
17SquawkV4 6b 2
18Squawk TraverseV5 6b  
19Squawk traverse variationV7 6c  
20Sick as a ParrotHVS 5a 5
21Sick BayVS 4b *12
22Handy Wall HoleS 4a 42
23ThunderbirdsS 4a 18
24WoodentopsS 4a 37
25StingrayVD 75
26Stingray AreteV2 6a 12
27Galaxy DoveV6 6b 1
28Interstellar PigeonV7 6c  
29The CavendishV0+ 5b 3
30Ouch!V0+ 5b  
31Jug of JusticeV1 5b  
 DOVESTONES BOULDER  
33Perfect Porthole ProblemV2 5c 20
34Huway-ColdV2 6a 5
35Huway-DayV1 5b 6
36Hip Hip HuwayV5 6b  
37Play HuwayV1 5b 9
38The Crack (Up Up and Huway)V0 4c ***16
39Right AreteV4 6a 4
40Rockfax Fax09 P27V3 6a 1
41Rockfax Fax09 P28V3 6a 3
 THE JONAH AREA  
43WindblastedD 131
44WindblownVD *120
45DomusnovasE2 5b 9
46JonahD 73
47Tight 'unsVS 5a 46
48TitaniumVS 5a *51
49TitanicVS 4c *76
50TitaniaVS 4c *88
51IltisHS 4b 37
52Pocket Rocket/OutflankedVS 5b 7
53OutfoxedVS 4c 5
54Fox's ChimneyM 22
55Foulstone WallVD 11
56Finerock RibVS 4c 14
57Scrapyard SlabS 4a 20
58Boneyard ButtressVD *35
59Boneyard AreteV3 6a 5
60The CompressorV6 6b 7
61Black Crimp problemV2 6a 5
62PolecatVS 4b *23
63Poll TaxedS 4a 17
64Pole-axedS 4a *67
65Jacobite's RouteVD **93
66Slow CookerS 4a 35
67SlocumS 4a *102
68First ComeHVS 5a 10
69GruyereVS 4c 26
 THE GREAT BUTTRESS  
71Dovestones GullyM 14
72Dovestones EdgeS 4a 54
73Dovestones WallVD *130
74A Little Green Eyed GodVS 4c *69
75Barney RubbleVS 4c *138
76Thread FlintstoneHVS 5b *25
77Brown WindsorVS 4b *32
78Mock TurtleE1 5b 9
79Great Buttress EliminateHVS 5a *12
80Lament for a ScotsmanE2 5b  
81Too Long GoneE4 6b  
 Climb nameGradex
82Great ButtressHVS 5a ***157
83SforzandoE4 6a 4
84Central ClimbVS 5a *18
85FennarioVS 4c *20
86Nippon, NippoffE3 6a 1
87TopsideS 4c 1
88Frodsham 3aS  
 GARGOYLE BUTTRESS  
90The DiamondV3 6a  
91Gargoyle TraverseHS 4b *12
92CavemanS 4b 12
93Dead on a RivalE5 6b * 
94Woodhouse's Wandering WayE3 5c 2
95Stony FacedE2 5c *5
96Gargoyle ButtressVS 4c *18
97Barker's Got a Sweat OnHVS 5a 2
98Conservative TendenciesVS 4c 4
 BUTTRESS 1  
100CankerVD 29
101Back BlastHVS 5b 1
102Wind TunnelM *25
103HurricaneVD *36
104TyphoonHVS 5b 1
105Route 1VS 4c ***172
106The Shylock FinishHVS 5a *47
107Blue VelvetE1 6a *3
108Claw ClimbHVS 5a *34
109TalonVS 4b *36
110Lancaster FlybyE1 5b **126
111Route IIVS 4b *26
112Blue HareVS 4c 1
113Grindle CrackHVD *8
114Grinder WallS 4
115A'rete DoD 7
116Another Left WallS 5
117Another Flaky WallVD 2
118Another Right WallS  
119Left BehindHS 1
120Frodsham 3cVS 5a 1
121Right AheadS 2
122StairwayD 4
123LaybyVD 3
124Pock MarkS 2
 THE UPPER CLIFFS  
126BarefootD 96
127Slab HappyS 4b 87
128Step It UpS 4c 75
129Groovy MovesS 4b 38
130Jam On ItHVS 5a  
131SquirmHVS 5a  
132Hang 'em HighHS 5b 4
133Chicken HeadE2 5c * 
134PleasantD 21
135Spring NightHVS 5b *4
136Autumn DayE1 5b **24
137Stretch MarksE1 6a *2
138Razor CutVS 4b 5
139RockyD 31
140BlockyHVD 21
141Hanging TreeHVS 5b  
142Easy GroundHVS 5b *1
143ExcelHVS 5b **23
144SwinwoodE1 5b 4
145Smokin'E1 5b 1
146Landing CraftHVS 5b 1
147Amen CornerHS 4b 4
148Old Man's CornerVD 14
149Village GreenVS 5a 7
150LamboHS 4a *39
151BertieE1 5c *4
152BluntHVS 5b *7
153PhilbyHVS 5a 12
154Granny SmithE1 5b * 
155Cox's PippinHVS 5a *4
156GangesVD 8
157Crackless BottomE1 5b 2
158Soft TopE1 5a 7
159Andy's Arete *V6 **2
160Roof Of Mantels *V4 f 6b *1
161Roof Route 2 *V3 f 6a+ 1
162Roof route 3 *V1 f 5+ 1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
Either:

From parking just north of the Strines Inn at a bend in the road (SK 221909) follow a well-used path across the moor to the middle of the edge (40 min); or

From Parking in a large layby east of Cutthroat Bridge on the A55 Sheffield - Glossop road. Follow the footpath from the bridge, initially north then west to reach the southern end of the outcrops (50 min).

Note the car park just north of Strines has been closed since Dec 2008 and will be for 3-5 years to allow timber lorries to access. This leaves limited parking on the roadside.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer popebenedictus ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The walk from Cut Throat bridge is longer, but an easier angle with good views. If you are approaching the crag for the first time from this direction, it is probably easier to walk along the top on the good path to the northern end of the crag, and then drop down to the first buttress. The 'path' under the crag at the southern end (White Tor) isn't as good and the buttresses are well spread out.
Nick Smith - UKC - 31/Jul/08