Climbs 163
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 600m a.s.l
Faces W

The stupendous Great Buttress © andybirtwistle

Crag features

The Derwent Edges are a line of weathered outcrops with a splendid outlook over the Derwent reservoirs. The longer approaches mean they are never busy, and you won't find any polished holds on the rough grit! With the exception of Dovestone Tor (20m) few outcrops are higher than 8m and coupled with recent bouldering developments make this a pleasant soloing venue. Dovestone Tor itself has many excellent routes, mainly in the low to middle grades, of which the best is Great Buttress (E1 5b).

Approach notes

Either:
From parking just north of the Strines Inn at a bend in the road (SK 221909) follow a well-used path across the moor to the middle of the edge (40 min); or
From Parking in a large layby east of Cutthroat Bridge on the A55 Sheffield - Glossop road. Follow the footpath from the bridge, initially north then west to reach the southern end of the outcrops (50 min).

Note the car park just north of Strines has been closed since Dec 2008 and will be for 3-5 years to allow timber lorries to access. This leaves limited parking on the roadside.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
The walk from Cut Throat bridge is longer, but an easier angle with good views. If you are approaching the crag for the first time from this direction, it is probably easier to walk along the top on the good path to the northern end of the crag, and then drop down to the first buttress. The 'path' under the crag at the southern end (White Tor) isn't as good and the buttresses are well spread out.
Nick Smith - UKC - 31/Jul/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Roof of Mantels 
2Roof of MantelsV4 *5
3Andy's Arete Left-HandV7 *3
4Andy's AreteV6 **7
 Left-Hand Blocks 
6Roof Route 2V3 1
7Roof route 3V1 1
 North Bouldering 
9Flagstone Roof LeftV1 1
10Flagstone Roof RightV3 1
11Odd BlockV1 1
12Arched RoofV0+ 1
13Arch RightV0 1
14Chicken HeadV0 ** 
15Roof RouteV5 * 
16Low Roof LeftV3 * 
17Low Roof MiddleV2 **2
18Low Roof RightV3 **1
19Low Roof Right RightV1 2
20Stone Dove SidewallV0 5
21Stone Dove LeftV2 *6
22Stone Dove RightV2 2
23Stone Dove CrackV0 5
24Chicken Head RockoverV1 2
25SquawkHVS 5b 5
26Squawk Traverse
-
V5 1
27Squawk Traverse DirectV7 1
28Sick as a ParrotHVS 5a 9
29Sick BayVS 4b *19
30Handy Wall HoleS 4a 69
31ThunderbirdsS 4a 30
32WoodentopsS 4a 58
33StingrayHVD 4a *115
34Stingray Aretef5+ *27
35Galaxy Dove
-
V6 3
36Interstellar Pigeon
-
V7 1
37The Cavendish
-
V0+ 7
38Ouch!
-
V0+  
39Jug of Justice
-
V1 3
 Dovestones Boulder 
41Perfect Porthole ProblemV2 43
42Huway-cold
-
V2 9
43Huway-day
-
V1 15
44Half the World Huway
-
f7A 1
45Hip Hip HuwayV5  
46Play Huway
-
V1 17
47Up Up and HuwayV0 ***24
48Curving Arete
-
V4 **10
49The Dove From Abovef7B **2
50The Crow from Belowf7A+ **1
51Small Roof LeftV3 2
52Small Roof RightV3 3
 Titania Area 
54WindblastedD *179
55WindblownVD *178
56DomusnovasE2 5c 17
57JonahD *100
58Tight 'unsVS 5a 59
59TitaniumVS 5a *83
60TitanicVS 4c **138
61TitaniaVS 4c **164
62IltisHS 4b *58
63Pocket Rocket
-
VS 5b 1
64OutflankedHVS 5b 12
65OutfoxedVS 4c 7
66Fox's ChimneyM 28
67Foulstone WallVD 21
68Finerock RibHS 4b 23
69Scrapyard SlabS 4a 28
70Boneyard ButtressVD 51
71Boneyard Arete
-
V3 9
72The Compressor
-
V6 9
73Black Crimp problem
-
V2 11
74PolecatVS 4b *38
75Poll TaxedS 4a 26
76Pole-axedS 4a *101
77Jacobite's RouteD *127
78Slow CookerS 4a *62
79SlocumS 4a *155
80First ComeHVS 5a 19
81GruyereVS 4c 43
 the Great Buttress 
83Dovestones GullyD 21
84Dovestones EdgeS 4a *80
85Dovestones WallVD **200
86A Little Green Eyed GodVS 4c *120
87Barney RubbleVS 4c **265
88Thread FlintstoneE1 5b **43
89Brown WindsorVS 4b *50
90Mock TurtleE1 5b 10
91Great Buttress EliminateHVS 5a *18
92Lament for a Scotsman
-
E2 5b  
93Too Long Gone
-
E4 6b  
94Great ButtressHVS 5a ***321
95SforzandoE5 6a **4
96Central ClimbVS 5a *26
97FennarioVS 4c *34
98Nippon, NippoffE3 6a 1
99Topside
-
S 4c 1
100Frodsham 3a
-
S  
 Gargoyle Buttress Area 
102The Diamond
-
V3 1
103Gargoyle TraverseS 4a *23
104CavemanS 4b 14
105Dead on a RivalE5 6b * 
106Woodhouse's Wandering WayE2 5c 3
107Stony FacedE1 5b *12
108Gargoyle ButtressVS 4c *22
109Barker's Got a Sweat OnHVS 5a 4
110Conservative TendenciesHS 4b 4
 Buttress 1 
112CankerHVD 38
113Back BlastHVS 5b 1
114Wind TunnelM *31
115HurricaneVD *45
116TyphoonHVS 5b 1
117Route 1VS 4c ***312
118The Shylock FinishVS 5a **89
119Blue VelvetE1 6a *11
120Claw ClimbHVS 5a **49
121TalonVS 4c *65
122Lancaster FlybyHVS 5b **232
123Route IIVS 4c 38
124Blue Hare
-
VS 4c 2
125Grindle CrackHVD 16
126Grinder Wall
-
S 7
127A'rete DoVD 9
128Another Left Wall
-
S 5
129Another Flaky WallVD 2
130Another Right Wall
-
S  
131Left Behind
-
HS 1
132Frodsham 3c
-
VS 5a 1
133Right Ahead
-
S 2
134Stairway
-
D 4
135Layby
-
VD 3
136Pock Mark
-
S 2
 Upper Buttress 
138BarefootD 117
139Slab HappyS 4a 117
140Step It UpS 4c 98
141Groovy MovesS 4b 55
142Jam On ItHVS 5a 5
143SquirmHVS 5a 2
144Hang 'em HighHS 5b 7
145Chicken HeadE2 5c *5
146PleasantD 26
147Spring NightE1 5c *6
148Autumn DayE1 5c **35
149Stretch MarksE1 6a *6
150Razor CutVS 4b 9
151RockyVD 37
152BlockyHVD 4a 28
153Hanging TreeHVS 5b 1
154Easy GroundHVS 5b *1
155ExcelHVS 5b **34
156SwinwoodE1 5b 9
157Smokin'E1 5b 2
158Landing CraftHVS 5b 2
159Amen CornerHS 4c 4
160Old Man's CornerVD 17
161Village GreenVS 5a 11
162LamboS 4b *54
163BertieE1 5c *6
164BluntHVS 5b *9
165PhilbyHVS 5b *17
166Granny SmithE1 5b * 
167Cox's PippinHVS 5b *6
168GangesVD 10
169Crackless BottomE1 5b 6
170Soft TopE1 5a 11
 Unknow / New / Awaiting Moderation 
172Huway in a Manger
-
f6B+ *1
173Rock Huway
-
f7A *1

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