Climbs 163
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 600m a.s.l
Faces W

The stupendous Great Buttress © andybirtwistle

Crag features

The Derwent Edges are a line of weathered outcrops with a splendid outlook over the Derwent reservoirs. The longer approaches mean they are never busy, and you won't find any polished holds on the rough grit! With the exception of Dovestone Tor (20m) few outcrops are higher than 8m and coupled with recent bouldering developments make this a pleasant soloing venue. Dovestone Tor itself has many excellent routes, mainly in the low to middle grades, of which the best is Great Buttress (E1 5b).

Approach notes

Either:
From parking just north of the Strines Inn at a bend in the road (SK 221909) follow a well-used path across the moor to the middle of the edge (40 min); or
From Parking in a large layby east of Cutthroat Bridge on the A55 Sheffield - Glossop road. Follow the footpath from the bridge, initially north then west to reach the southern end of the outcrops (50 min).

Note the car park just north of Strines has been closed since Dec 2008 and will be for 3-5 years to allow timber lorries to access. This leaves limited parking on the roadside.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
The walk from Cut Throat bridge is longer, but an easier angle with good views. If you are approaching the crag for the first time from this direction, it is probably easier to walk along the top on the good path to the northern end of the crag, and then drop down to the first buttress. The 'path' under the crag at the southern end (White Tor) isn't as good and the buttresses are well spread out.
Nick Smith - UKC - 31/Jul/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Roof of Mantels 
2Roof of MantelsV4 *5
3Andy's Arete Left-HandV7 *3
4Andy's AreteV6 **7
 Left-Hand Blocks 
6Roof Route 2V3 1
7Roof route 3V1 1
 North Bouldering 
9Flagstone Roof LeftV1 1
10Flagstone Roof RightV3 1
11Odd BlockV1 1
12Arched RoofV0+ 1
13Arch RightV0 1
14Chicken HeadV0 ** 
15Roof RouteV5 * 
16Low Roof LeftV3 * 
17Low Roof MiddleV2 **2
18Low Roof RightV3 **1
19Low Roof Right RightV1 2
20Stone Dove SidewallV0 5
21Stone Dove LeftV2 *6
22Stone Dove RightV2 2
23Stone Dove CrackV0 5
24Chicken Head RockoverV1 2
25SquawkHVS 5b 5
26Squawk Traverse
-
V5 1
27Squawk Traverse DirectV7 1
28Sick as a ParrotHVS 5a 8
29Sick BayVS 4b *15
30Handy Wall HoleS 4a 61
31ThunderbirdsS 4a 27
32WoodentopsS 4a 53
33StingrayHVD 4a *96
34Stingray Aretef5+ *25
35Galaxy Dove
-
V6 3
36Interstellar Pigeon
-
V7 1
37The Cavendish
-
V0+ 7
38Ouch!
-
V0+  
39Jug of Justice
-
V1 3
 Dovestones Boulder 
41Perfect Porthole ProblemV2 39
42Huway-cold
-
V2 8
43Huway-day
-
V1 14
44Half the World Huway
-
f7A 1
45Hip Hip HuwayV5  
46Play Huway
-
V1 17
47Up Up and HuwayV0 ***23
48Curving Arete
-
V4 **10
49The Dove From Abovef7B **2
50The Crow from Belowf7A+ **1
51Small Roof LeftV3 2
52Small Roof RightV3 3
 Titania Area 
54WindblastedD *167
55WindblownVD *168
56DomusnovasE2 5c 17
57JonahD *96
58Tight 'unsVS 5a 56
59TitaniumVS 5a *72
60TitanicVS 4c **112
61TitaniaVS 4c **131
62IltisHS 4b *52
63OutflankedHVS 5b 11
64OutfoxedVS 4c 6
65Fox's ChimneyM 24
66Foulstone WallVD 17
67Finerock RibHS 4b 19
68Scrapyard SlabS 4a 26
69Boneyard ButtressVD 48
70Boneyard Arete
-
V3 9
71The Compressor
-
V6 9
72Black Crimp problem
-
V2 8
73PolecatVS 4b *32
74Poll TaxedS 4a 22
75Pole-axedS 4a *91
76Jacobite's RouteD *118
77Slow CookerS 4a *53
78SlocumS 4a *143
79First ComeHVS 5a 18
80GruyereVS 4c 42
 the Great Buttress 
82Dovestones GullyD 19
83Dovestones EdgeS 4a *76
84Dovestones WallVD **182
85A Little Green Eyed GodVS 4c *105
86Barney RubbleVS 4c **221
87Thread FlintstoneE1 5b **42
88Brown WindsorVS 4b *48
89Mock TurtleE1 5b 10
90Great Buttress EliminateHVS 5a *16
91Lament for a Scotsman
-
E2 5b  
92Too Long Gone
-
E4 6b  
93Great ButtressHVS 5a ***246
94SforzandoE5 6a **4
95Central ClimbVS 5a *25
96FennarioVS 4c *30
97Nippon, NippoffE3 6a 1
98Topside
-
S 4c 1
99Frodsham 3a
-
S  
 Gargoyle Buttress Area 
101The Diamond
-
V3  
102Gargoyle TraverseS 4a *19
103CavemanS 4b 14
104Dead on a RivalE5 6b * 
105Woodhouse's Wandering WayE2 5c 3
106Stony FacedE1 5b *12
107Gargoyle ButtressVS 4c *21
108Barker's Got a Sweat OnHVS 5a 4
109Conservative TendenciesHS 4b 4
 Buttress 1 
111CankerHVD 36
112Back BlastHVS 5b 1
113Wind TunnelM *30
114HurricaneVD *45
115TyphoonHVS 5b 1
116Route 1VS 4c ***265
117The Shylock FinishVS 5a **84
118Blue VelvetE1 6a *11
119Claw ClimbHVS 5a **49
120TalonVS 4c *63
121Lancaster FlybyHVS 5b **200
122Route IIVS 4c 33
123Blue Hare
-
VS 4c 2
124Grindle CrackHVD 14
125Grinder Wall
-
S 6
126A'rete DoVD 7
127Another Left Wall
-
S 5
128Another Flaky WallVD 2
129Another Right Wall
-
S  
130Left Behind
-
HS 1
131Frodsham 3c
-
VS 5a 1
132Right Ahead
-
S 2
133Stairway
-
D 4
134Layby
-
VD 3
135Pock Mark
-
S 2
 Upper Buttress 
137BarefootD 110
138Slab HappyS 4a 109
139Step It UpS 4c 90
140Groovy MovesS 4b 49
141Jam On ItHVS 5a 2
142SquirmHVS 5a 1
143Hang 'em HighHS 5b 5
144Chicken HeadE2 5c *4
145PleasantD 23
146Spring NightE1 5c *6
147Autumn DayE1 5c **34
148Stretch MarksE1 6a *5
149Razor CutVS 4b 8
150RockyVD 32
151BlockyHVD 4a 21
152Hanging TreeHVS 5b  
153Easy GroundHVS 5b *1
154ExcelHVS 5b **26
155SwinwoodE1 5b 5
156Smokin'E1 5b 1
157Landing CraftHVS 5b 2
158Amen CornerHS 4c 4
159Old Man's CornerVD 14
160Village GreenVS 5a 11
161LamboS 4b *50
162BertieE1 5c *6
163BluntHVS 5b *7
164PhilbyHVS 5b *15
165Granny SmithE1 5b * 
166Cox's PippinHVS 5b *6
167GangesVD 10
168Crackless BottomE1 5b 6
169Soft TopE1 5a 11
 Unknow / New / Awaiting Moderation 
171Huway in a Manger
-
f6B+ *1
172Rock Huway
-
f7A *1

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