Dovestone Tor

Climbs 163 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 600m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
The Derwent Edges are a line of weathered outcrops with a splendid outlook over the Derwent reservoirs. The longer approaches mean they are never busy, and you won't find any polished holds on the rough grit! With the exception of Dovestone Tor (20m) few outcrops are higher than 8m and coupled with recent bouldering developments make this a pleasant soloing venue. Dovestone Tor itself has many excellent routes, mainly in the low to middle grades, of which the best is Great Buttress (E1 5b).

Access notes
Either:

From parking just north of the Strines Inn at a bend in the road (SK 221909) follow a well-used path across the moor to the middle of the edge (40 min); or

From Parking in a large layby east of Cutthroat Bridge on the A55 Sheffield - Glossop road. Follow the footpath from the bridge, initially north then west to reach the southern end of the outcrops (50 min).

Note the car park just north of Strines has been closed since Dec 2008 and will be for 3-5 years to allow timber lorries to access. This leaves limited parking on the roadside.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Eastern Grit (2006), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994), Peak Climbs - Stanage (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 ROOF OF MANTELS 
2Roof of MantelsV4 f6b *
3Andy's Arete Left-HandV7 *
4Andy's AreteV6 **
 LEFT-HAND BLOCKS 
6Roof Route 2V3 f 6a+
7Roof route 3V1 f 5+
 NORTH BOULDERING 
9Flagstone Roof LeftV1 5c
10Flagstone Roof RightV3
11Odd BlockV1
12Arched RoofV0+ 5a
13Arch RightV0 5a
14Chicken HeadV0 5a **
15Roof RouteV5 6b *
16Low Roof LeftV3 6a *
17Low Roof MiddleV2 5c **
18Low Roof RightV3 6a **
19Low Roof Right RightV1
20Stone Dove SidewallV0
21Stone Dove LeftV2 *
22Stone Dove RightV2
23Stone Dove CrackV0
24Chicken Head RockoverV1
25SquawkV4 6b
26Squawk TraverseV5 6b
27Squawk Traverse DirectV7 6c
28Sick as a ParrotHVS 5a
29Sick BayVS 4b *
30Handy Wall HoleS 4a
31ThunderbirdsS 4a
32WoodentopsS 4a
33StingrayVD
34Stingray AreteV2 6a
35Galaxy DoveV6 6b
36Interstellar PigeonV7 6c
37The CavendishV0+ 5b
38Ouch!V0+ 5b
39Jug of JusticeV1 5b
 DOVESTONES BOULDER 
41Perfect Porthole ProblemV2 5c
42Huway-coldV2 6a
43Huway-dayV1 5b
44Hip Hip HuwayV5 6b
45Play HuwayV1 5b
46Up Up and HuwayV0 4c ***
47Curving AreteV4 6a **
48The Dove From Abovef7B **
49The Crow from Belowf7A+ **
50Small Roof LeftV3 6a
51Small Roof RightV3 6a
 THE JONAH AREA 
53WindblastedD
54WindblownVD *
55DomusnovasE2 5b
56JonahD
57Tight 'unsVS 5a
58TitaniumVS 5a *
59TitanicVS 4c *
60TitaniaVS 4c *
61IltisHS 4b
62Pocket Rocket/OutflankedVS 5b
63OutfoxedVS 4c
64Fox's ChimneyM
65Foulstone WallVD
66Finerock RibVS 4c
67Scrapyard SlabS 4a
68Boneyard ButtressVD *
69Boneyard AreteV3 6a
70The CompressorV6 6b
71Black Crimp problemV2 6a
72PolecatVS 4b *
73Poll TaxedS 4a
74Pole-axedS 4a *
75Jacobite's RouteVD **
76Slow CookerS 4a
77SlocumS 4a *
78First ComeHVS 5a
79GruyereVS 4c
 THE GREAT BUTTRESS 
81Dovestones GullyM
82Dovestones EdgeS 4a
83Dovestones WallVD **
84A Little Green Eyed GodVS 4c *
85Barney RubbleVS 4c **
86Thread FlintstoneHVS 5b *
87Brown WindsorVS 4b *
88Mock TurtleE1 5b
89Great Buttress EliminateHVS 5a *
90Lament for a ScotsmanE2 5b
91Too Long GoneE4 6b
92Great ButtressHVS 5a ***
93SforzandoE4 6a
94Central ClimbVS 4c, 5a *
95FennarioVS 4b, 4c *
96Nippon, NippoffE3 6a
97TopsideS 4c
98Frodsham 3aS
 GARGOYLE BUTTRESS 
100The DiamondV3 6a
101Gargoyle TraverseHS 4b *
102CavemanS 4b
103Dead on a RivalE5 6b *
104Woodhouse's Wandering WayE3 5c
105Stony FacedE2 5c *
106Gargoyle ButtressVS 4c *
107Barker's Got a Sweat OnHVS 5a
108Conservative TendenciesVS 4c
 BUTTRESS 1 
110CankerVD
111Back BlastHVS 5b
112Wind TunnelM *
113HurricaneVD *
114TyphoonHVS 5b
115Route 1VS 4c ***
116The Shylock FinishHVS 5a *
117Blue VelvetE1 6a *
118Claw ClimbHVS 5a *
119TalonVS 4b *
120Lancaster FlybyE1 5b **
121Route IIVS 4b *
122Blue HareVS 4c
123Grindle CrackHVD *
124Grinder WallS
125A'rete DoD
126Another Left WallS
127Another Flaky WallVD
128Another Right WallS
129Left BehindHS
130Frodsham 3cVS 5a
131Right AheadS
132StairwayD
133LaybyVD
134Pock MarkS
 THE UPPER CLIFFS 
136BarefootD
137Slab HappyS 4b
138Step It UpS 4c
139Groovy MovesS 4b
140Jam On ItHVS 5a
141SquirmHVS 5a
142Hang 'em HighHS 5b
143Chicken HeadE2 5c *
144PleasantD
145Spring NightHVS 5b *
146Autumn DayE1 5b **
147Stretch MarksE1 6a *
148Razor CutVS 4b
149RockyD
150BlockyHVD
151Hanging TreeHVS 5b
152Easy GroundHVS 5b *
153ExcelHVS 5b **
154SwinwoodE1 5b
155Smokin'E1 5b
156Landing CraftHVS 5b
157Amen CornerHS 4b
158Old Man's CornerVD
159Village GreenVS 5a
160LamboHS 4a *
161BertieE1 5c *
162BluntHVS 5b *
163PhilbyHVS 5a
164Granny SmithE1 5b *
165Cox's PippinHVS 5a *
166GangesVD
167Crackless BottomE1 5b
168Soft TopE1 5a
 UNKNOW / NEW / AWAITING MODERATION 
170Huway in a Manger f6B+ *
171Half the World Huway f7A **
172Rock Huway f7A *
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graeme Hammond

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The walk from Cut Throat bridge is longer, but an easier angle with good views. If you are approaching the crag for the first time from this direction, it is probably easier to walk along the top on the good path to the northern end of the crag, and then drop down to the first buttress. The 'path' under the crag at the southern end (White Tor) isn't as good and the buttresses are well spread out.
Nick Smith - UKC - 31/Jul/08