Dovestone Tor

Climbs 163 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 600m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
The Derwent Edges are a line of weathered outcrops with a splendid outlook over the Derwent reservoirs. The longer approaches mean they are never busy, and you won't find any polished holds on the rough grit! With the exception of Dovestone Tor (20m) few outcrops are higher than 8m and coupled with recent bouldering developments make this a pleasant soloing venue. Dovestone Tor itself has many excellent routes, mainly in the low to middle grades, of which the best is Great Buttress (E1 5b).

Access notes
Either:

From parking just north of the Strines Inn at a bend in the road (SK 221909) follow a well-used path across the moor to the middle of the edge (40 min); or

From Parking in a large layby east of Cutthroat Bridge on the A55 Sheffield - Glossop road. Follow the footpath from the bridge, initially north then west to reach the southern end of the outcrops (50 min).

Note the car park just north of Strines has been closed since Dec 2008 and will be for 3-5 years to allow timber lorries to access. This leaves limited parking on the roadside.

Guidebooks
Eastern Grit (2015), Peak Bouldering (2014), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Eastern Grit (2006) (2006), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994), Peak Climbs - Stanage (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 ROOF OF MANTELS  
2Roof of MantelsV4 f6b *3
3Andy's Arete Left-HandV7 *2
4Andy's AreteV6 **5
 LEFT-HAND BLOCKS  
6Roof Route 2V3 f 6a+ 1
7Roof route 3V1 f 5+ 1
 NORTH BOULDERING  
9Flagstone Roof LeftV1 5c 1
10Flagstone Roof RightV3 1
11Odd BlockV1 1
12Arched RoofV0+ 5a  
13Arch RightV0 5a  
14Chicken HeadV0 5a ** 
15Roof RouteV5 6b * 
16Low Roof LeftV3 6a * 
17Low Roof MiddleV2 5c ** 
18Low Roof RightV3 6a ** 
19Low Roof Right RightV1 1
20Stone Dove SidewallV0 5
21Stone Dove LeftV2 *4
22Stone Dove RightV2 1
23Stone Dove CrackV0 4
24Chicken Head RockoverV1 2
25SquawkHVS 5b 3
26Squawk TraverseV5 6b 1
27Squawk Traverse DirectV7 6c  
28Sick as a ParrotHVS 5a 7
29Sick BayVS 4b *14
30Handy Wall HoleS 4a 56
31ThunderbirdsS 4a 23
32WoodentopsS 4a 48
33StingrayHVD 4a *91
34Stingray Aretef5+ *16
35Galaxy DoveV6 6b 1
36Interstellar PigeonV7 6c  
37The CavendishV0+ 5b 5
38Ouch!V0+ 5b  
39Jug of JusticeV1 5b 3
 DOVESTONES BOULDER  
41Perfect Porthole ProblemV2 5c 32
42Huway-coldV2 6a 8
43Huway-dayV1 5b 14
44Half the World Huwayf7A 1
45Hip Hip HuwayV5 6b  
46Play HuwayV1 5b 16
47Up Up and HuwayV0 4c ***23
48Curving AreteV4 6a **8
49The Dove From Abovef7B **2
50The Crow from Belowf7A+ **1
51Small Roof LeftV3 6a 1
52Small Roof RightV3 6a 3
 TITANIA AREA  
54WindblastedD *158
55WindblownVD *154
56DomusnovasE2 5c 12
57JonahD *93
58Tight 'unsVS 5a 52
59TitaniumVS 5a *68
60TitanicVS 4c **96
61TitaniaVS 4c **119
62IltisHS 4b *48
63OutflankedHVS 5b 10
64OutfoxedVS 4c 5
65Fox's ChimneyM 24
66Foulstone WallVD 16
67Finerock RibHS 4b 18
68Scrapyard SlabS 4a 22
69Boneyard ButtressVD 46
70Boneyard AreteV3 6a 7
71The CompressorV6 6b 9
72Black Crimp problemV2 6a 8
73PolecatVS 4b *31
74Poll TaxedS 4a 21
75Pole-axedS 4a *84
76Jacobite's RouteD *114
77Slow CookerS 4a *50
78SlocumS 4a *132
79First ComeHVS 5a 17
80GruyereVS 4c 38
 THE GREAT BUTTRESS  
82Dovestones GullyD 18
83Dovestones EdgeS 4a *72
84Dovestones WallVD **169
85A Little Green Eyed GodVS 4c *100
86Barney RubbleVS 4c **201
87Thread FlintstoneE1 5b **33
88Brown WindsorVS 4b *43
89Mock TurtleE1 5b 10
90Great Buttress EliminateHVS 5a *16
91Lament for a ScotsmanE2 5b  
92Too Long GoneE4 6b  
93Great ButtressHVS 5a ***212
94SforzandoE5 6a **4
95Central ClimbVS 5a *22
96FennarioVS 4c *28
97Nippon, NippoffE3 6a 1
98TopsideS 4c 1
99Frodsham 3aS  
 GARGOYLE BUTTRESS AREA  
101The DiamondV3 6a  
102Gargoyle TraverseS 4a *16
103CavemanS 4b 14
104Dead on a RivalE5 6b * 
105Woodhouse's Wandering WayE2 5c 2
106Stony FacedE1 5b *11
107Gargoyle ButtressVS 4c *19
108Barker's Got a Sweat OnHVS 5a 4
109Conservative TendenciesHS 4b 4
 BUTTRESS 1  
111CankerHVD 35
112Back BlastHVS 5b 1
113Wind TunnelM *28
114HurricaneVD *40
115TyphoonHVS 5b 1
116Route 1VS 4c ***232
117The Shylock FinishVS 5a **70
118Blue VelvetE1 6a *10
119Claw ClimbHVS 5a **42
120TalonVS 4c *53
121Lancaster FlybyHVS 5b **174
122Route IIVS 4c 30
123Blue HareVS 4c 2
124Grindle CrackHVD 13
125Grinder WallS 6
126A'rete DoVD 7
127Another Left WallS 5
128Another Flaky WallVD 2
129Another Right WallS  
130Left BehindHS 1
131Frodsham 3cVS 5a 1
132Right AheadS 2
133StairwayD 4
134LaybyVD 3
135Pock MarkS 2
 UPPER BUTTRESS  
137BarefootD 105
138Slab HappyS 4a 103
139Step It UpS 4c 84
140Groovy MovesS 4b 46
141Jam On ItHVS 5a 2
142SquirmHVS 5a 1
143Hang 'em HighHS 5b 5
144Chicken HeadE2 5c *4
145PleasantD 23
146Spring NightE1 5c *6
147Autumn DayE1 5c **30
148Stretch MarksE1 6a *5
149Razor CutVS 4b 6
150RockyVD 32
151BlockyHVD 4a 21
152Hanging TreeHVS 5b  
153Easy GroundHVS 5b *1
154ExcelHVS 5b **24
155SwinwoodE1 5b 5
156Smokin'E1 5b 1
157Landing CraftHVS 5b 1
158Amen CornerHS 4c 4
159Old Man's CornerVD 14
160Village GreenVS 5a 9
161LamboS 4b *44
162BertieE1 5c *6
163BluntHVS 5b *7
164PhilbyHVS 5b *14
165Granny SmithE1 5b * 
166Cox's PippinHVS 5b *5
167GangesVD 10
168Crackless BottomE1 5b 4
169Soft TopE1 5a 9
 UNKNOW / NEW / AWAITING MODERATION  
171Huway in a Manger f6B+ *1
172Rock Huway f7A *1
 ROUTES ADDED FROM ROCKFAX BOOK  
174OutflankedHVS 5b  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graeme Hammond

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The walk from Cut Throat bridge is longer, but an easier angle with good views. If you are approaching the crag for the first time from this direction, it is probably easier to walk along the top on the good path to the northern end of the crag, and then drop down to the first buttress. The 'path' under the crag at the southern end (White Tor) isn't as good and the buttresses are well spread out.
Nick Smith - UKC - 31/Jul/08