Climbs 163
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 600m a.s.l
Faces W

The stupendous Great Buttress © andybirtwistle

Crag features

The Derwent Edges are a line of weathered outcrops with a splendid outlook over the Derwent reservoirs. The longer approaches mean they are never busy, and you won't find any polished holds on the rough grit! With the exception of Dovestone Tor (20m) few outcrops are higher than 8m and coupled with recent bouldering developments make this a pleasant soloing venue. Dovestone Tor itself has many excellent routes, mainly in the low to middle grades, of which the best is Great Buttress (E1 5b).

Approach notes

From parking just north of the Strines Inn at a bend in the road (SK 221909) follow a well-used path across the moor to the middle of the edge (40 min); or
From Parking in a large layby east of Cutthroat Bridge on the A55 Sheffield - Glossop road. Follow the footpath from the bridge, initially north then west to reach the southern end of the outcrops (50 min).

Note the car park just north of Strines has been closed since Dec 2008 and will be for 3-5 years to allow timber lorries to access. This leaves limited parking on the roadside.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
The walk from Cut Throat bridge is longer, but an easier angle with good views. If you are approaching the crag for the first time from this direction, it is probably easier to walk along the top on the good path to the northern end of the crag, and then drop down to the first buttress. The 'path' under the crag at the southern end (White Tor) isn't as good and the buttresses are well spread out.
Nick Smith - UKC - 31/Jul/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Roof of Mantels 
2Roof of Mantelsf6B *4
3Andy's Arete Left-Handf7A+ *2
4Andy's Aretef7A **5
 Left-Hand Blocks 
6Roof Route 2f6A 1
7Roof route 3f5 1
 North Bouldering 
9Flagstone Roof Leftf5 1
10Flagstone Roof Rightf6A 1
11Odd Blockf5 1
12Arched Rooff4+ 1
13Arch Rightf4 1
14Chicken Headf4 ** 
15Roof Routef6C * 
16Low Roof Leftf6A * 
17Low Roof Middlef5+ **2
18Low Roof Rightf6A **1
19Low Roof Right Rightf5 2
20Stone Dove Sidewallf4 5
21Stone Dove Leftf5+ *6
22Stone Dove Rightf5+ 2
23Stone Dove Crackf4 5
24Chicken Head Rockoverf5 2
25SquawkHVS 5b 4
26Squawk Traverse
f6C 1
27Squawk Traverse Directf7A+ 1
28Sick as a ParrotHVS 5a 8
29Sick BayVS 4b *15
30Handy Wall HoleS 4a 60
31ThunderbirdsS 4a 26
32WoodentopsS 4a 52
33StingrayHVD 4a *95
34Stingray Aretef5+ *22
35Galaxy Dove
f7A 1
36Interstellar Pigeon
f7A+ 1
37The Cavendish
f4+ 7
39Jug of Justice
f5 3
 Dovestones Boulder 
41Perfect Porthole Problemf5+ 38
f5+ 8
f5 14
44Half the World Huway
f7A 1
45Hip Hip Huwayf6C  
46Play Huway
f5 16
47Up Up and Huwayf4 ***23
48Curving Arete
f6B **10
49The Dove From Abovef7B **2
50The Crow from Belowf7A+ **1
51Small Roof Leftf6A 2
52Small Roof Rightf6A 3
 Titania Area 
54WindblastedD *164
55WindblownVD *165
56DomusnovasE2 5c 16
57JonahD *95
58Tight 'unsVS 5a 55
59TitaniumVS 5a *69
60TitanicVS 4c **106
61TitaniaVS 4c **127
62IltisHS 4b *51
63OutflankedHVS 5b 11
64OutfoxedVS 4c 6
65Fox's ChimneyM 24
66Foulstone WallVD 17
67Finerock RibHS 4b 19
68Scrapyard SlabS 4a 25
69Boneyard ButtressVD 47
70Boneyard Arete
f6A 9
71The Compressor
f7A 9
72Black Crimp problem
f5+ 8
73PolecatVS 4b *32
74Poll TaxedS 4a 22
75Pole-axedS 4a *90
76Jacobite's RouteD *117
77Slow CookerS 4a *53
78SlocumS 4a *140
79First ComeHVS 5a 18
80GruyereVS 4c 42
 the Great Buttress 
82Dovestones GullyD 19
83Dovestones EdgeS 4a *75
84Dovestones WallVD **178
85A Little Green Eyed GodVS 4c *103
86Barney RubbleVS 4c **219
87Thread FlintstoneE1 5b **42
88Brown WindsorVS 4b *48
89Mock TurtleE1 5b 10
90Great Buttress EliminateHVS 5a *16
91Lament for a Scotsman
E2 5b  
92Too Long Gone
E4 6b  
93Great ButtressHVS 5a ***240
94SforzandoE5 6a **4
95Central ClimbVS 5a *24
96FennarioVS 4c *30
97Nippon, NippoffE3 6a 1
S 4c 1
99Frodsham 3a
 Gargoyle Buttress Area 
101The Diamond
102Gargoyle TraverseS 4a *18
103CavemanS 4b 14
104Dead on a RivalE5 6b * 
105Woodhouse's Wandering WayE2 5c 3
106Stony FacedE1 5b *12
107Gargoyle ButtressVS 4c *23
108Barker's Got a Sweat OnHVS 5a 4
109Conservative TendenciesHS 4b 4
 Buttress 1 
111CankerHVD 36
112Back BlastHVS 5b 1
113Wind TunnelM *30
114HurricaneVD *43
115TyphoonHVS 5b 1
116Route 1VS 4c ***287
117The Shylock FinishVS 5a **83
118Blue VelvetE1 6a *11
119Claw ClimbHVS 5a **48
120TalonVS 4c *60
121Lancaster FlybyHVS 5b **198
122Route IIVS 4c 33
123Blue Hare
VS 4c 2
124Grindle CrackHVD 14
125Grinder Wall
S 6
126A'rete DoVD 7
127Another Left Wall
S 5
128Another Flaky WallVD 2
129Another Right Wall
130Left Behind
HS 1
131Frodsham 3c
VS 5a 1
132Right Ahead
S 2
D 4
VD 3
135Pock Mark
S 2
 Upper Buttress 
137BarefootD 107
138Slab HappyS 4a 105
139Step It UpS 4c 86
140Groovy MovesS 4b 46
141Jam On ItHVS 5a 2
142SquirmHVS 5a 1
143Hang 'em HighHS 5b 5
144Chicken HeadE2 5c *4
145PleasantD 23
146Spring NightE1 5c *6
147Autumn DayE1 5c **32
148Stretch MarksE1 6a *5
149Razor CutVS 4b 6
150RockyVD 32
151BlockyHVD 4a 21
152Hanging TreeHVS 5b  
153Easy GroundHVS 5b *1
154ExcelHVS 5b **26
155SwinwoodE1 5b 5
156Smokin'E1 5b 1
157Landing CraftHVS 5b 2
158Amen CornerHS 4c 4
159Old Man's CornerVD 14
160Village GreenVS 5a 10
161LamboS 4b *51
162BertieE1 5c *6
163BluntHVS 5b *7
164PhilbyHVS 5b *14
165Granny SmithE1 5b * 
166Cox's PippinHVS 5b *6
167GangesVD 10
168Crackless BottomE1 5b 5
169Soft TopE1 5a 11
 Unknow / New / Awaiting Moderation 
171Huway in a Manger
f6B+ *1
172Rock Huway
f7A *1

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