Climbs 164
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 600m a.s.l
Faces W

The stupendous Great Buttress © andybirtwistle

Crag features

The Derwent Edges are a line of weathered outcrops with a splendid outlook over the Derwent reservoirs. The longer approaches mean they are never busy, and you won't find any polished holds on the rough grit! With the exception of Dovestone Tor (20m) few outcrops are higher than 8m and coupled with recent bouldering developments make this a pleasant soloing venue. Dovestone Tor itself has many excellent routes, mainly in the low to middle grades, of which the best is Great Buttress (E1 5b).

Approach notes

Either:
From parking just north of the Strines Inn at a bend in the road (SK 221909) follow a well-used path across the moor to the middle of the edge (40 min); or
From Parking in a large layby east of Cutthroat Bridge on the A55 Sheffield - Glossop road. Follow the footpath from the bridge, initially north then west to reach the southern end of the outcrops (50 min).

Note the car park just north of Strines has been closed since Dec 2008 and will be for 3-5 years to allow timber lorries to access. This leaves limited parking on the roadside.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
The walk from Cut Throat bridge is longer, but an easier angle with good views. If you are approaching the crag for the first time from this direction, it is probably easier to walk along the top on the good path to the northern end of the crag, and then drop down to the first buttress. The 'path' under the crag at the southern end (White Tor) isn't as good and the buttresses are well spread out.
Nick Smith - UKC - 31/Jul/08
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Roof of Mantels 
2Roof of MantelsV4 *5
3Andy's Arete Left-HandV7 *3
4Andy's AreteV6 **7
 Left-Hand Blocks 
6Roof Route 2V3 1
7Roof route 3V1 1
 North Bouldering 
9Flagstone Roof Leftf5 *1
10Flagstone Roof Rightf6A+ *1
11Odd Blockf5 *1
12Arched Rooff4 *1
13Arch Rightf4 *1
14Chicken Headf5 ** 
15Roof Routef6C * 
16Low Roof Leftf5+ * 
17Low Roof Middlef6A+ **2
18Low Roof Rightf5+ **1
19Low Roof Right RightV1 2
20Stone Dove Sidewallf4 5
21Stone Dove Leftf5 **6
22Stone Dove Rightf5 *2
23Stone Dove Crackf4+ *5
24Chicken Head Rockoverf5 **2
25SquawkHVS 5b 5
26Squawk Traversef6C **1
27Squawk Traverse Directf7A+ *1
28Squawk Lowf6B * 
29Sick as a ParrotHVS 5a 9
30Sick BayVS 4b *19
31Handy Wall HoleS 4a 71
32ThunderbirdsS 4a 30
33WoodentopsS 4a 58
34StingrayHVD 4a *115
35Stingray Aretef5+ ***28
36Galaxy Dovef7A *3
37Interstellar Pigeonf7A+ **1
38The Cavendishf4+ 7
39Ouch!
-
V0+  
40Jug of Justicef5 3
 Dovestones Boulder 
42Perfect Porthole Problemf5+ ***43
43Huway-coldf5+ *9
44Huway-dayf5 **15
45Half the World Huwayf7A 1
46Hip Hip Huwayf6C+  
47Play Huwayf5 **17
48Up Up and Huwayf4 *26
49Curving Aretef6B ***11
50The Dove From Abovef7B+ **2
51The Crow from Belowf7A+ **1
52Small Roof Leftf6A+ 2
53Small Roof Rightf6B 3
 Titania Area 
55WindblastedD *179
56WindblownVD *179
57DomusnovasE2 5c 17
58JonahD *102
59Tight 'unsVS 5a 59
60TitaniumVS 5a *83
61TitanicVS 4c **141
62TitaniaVS 4c **165
63IltisHS 4b *58
64Pocket Rocket
-
VS 5b 1
65OutflankedHVS 5b 12
66OutfoxedVS 4c 7
67Fox's ChimneyM 29
68Foulstone WallVD 21
69Finerock RibHS 4b 23
70Scrapyard SlabS 4a 28
71Boneyard ButtressVD 51
72Boneyard Arete
-
V3 10
73The Compressor
-
V6 9
74Black Crimp problem
-
V2 11
75PolecatVS 4b *39
76Poll TaxedS 4a 27
77Pole-axedS 4a *102
78Jacobite's RouteD *130
79Slow CookerS 4a *63
80SlocumS 4a *158
81First ComeHVS 5a 19
82GruyereVS 4c 43
 the Great Buttress 
84Dovestones GullyD 21
85Dovestones EdgeS 4a *81
86Dovestones WallVD **204
87A Little Green Eyed GodVS 4c *122
88Barney RubbleVS 4c **267
89Thread FlintstoneE1 5b **43
90Brown WindsorVS 4b *54
91Mock TurtleE1 5b 10
92Great Buttress EliminateHVS 5a *18
93Lament for a Scotsman
-
E2 5b  
94Too Long Gone
-
E4 6b  
95Great ButtressHVS 5a ***327
96SforzandoE5 6a **4
97Central ClimbVS 5a *26
98FennarioVS 4c *34
99Nippon, NippoffE3 6a 1
100Topside
-
S 4c 1
101Frodsham 3a
-
S  
 Gargoyle Buttress Area 
103The Diamond
-
V3 1
104Gargoyle TraverseS 4a *23
105CavemanS 4b 14
106Dead on a RivalE5 6b * 
107Woodhouse's Wandering WayE2 5c 3
108Stony FacedE1 5b *12
109Gargoyle ButtressVS 4c *24
110Barker's Got a Sweat OnHVS 5a 4
111Conservative TendenciesHS 4b 4
 Buttress 1 
113CankerHVD 38
114Back BlastHVS 5b 1
115Wind TunnelM *31
116HurricaneVD *45
117TyphoonHVS 5b 1
118Route 1VS 4c ***318
119The Shylock FinishVS 5a **90
120Blue VelvetE1 6a *11
121Claw ClimbHVS 5a **50
122TalonVS 4c *66
123Lancaster FlybyHVS 5b **232
124Route IIVS 4c 41
125Blue Hare
-
VS 4c 2
126Grindle CrackHVD 16
127Grinder Wall
-
S 7
128A'rete DoVD 9
129Another Left Wall
-
S 5
130Another Flaky WallVD 2
131Another Right Wall
-
S  
132Left Behind
-
HS 1
133Frodsham 3c
-
VS 5a 1
134Right Ahead
-
S 2
135Stairway
-
D 4
136Layby
-
VD 3
137Pock Mark
-
S 2
 Upper Buttress 
139BarefootD 121
140Slab HappyS 4a 118
141Step It UpS 4c 98
142Groovy MovesS 4b 55
143Jam On ItHVS 5a 5
144SquirmHVS 5a 2
145Hang 'em HighHS 5b 7
146Chicken HeadE2 5c *5
147PleasantD 26
148Spring NightE1 5c *6
149Autumn DayE1 5c **35
150Stretch MarksE1 6a *6
151Razor CutVS 4b 9
152RockyVD 37
153BlockyHVD 4a 28
154Hanging TreeHVS 5b 1
155Easy GroundHVS 5b *1
156ExcelHVS 5b **35
157SwinwoodE1 5b 9
158Smokin'E1 5b 2
159Landing CraftHVS 5b 2
160Amen CornerHS 4c 4
161Old Man's CornerVD 17
162Village GreenVS 5a 11
163LamboS 4b *54
164BertieE1 5c *6
165BluntHVS 5b *9
166PhilbyHVS 5b *17
167Granny SmithE1 5b * 
168Cox's PippinHVS 5b *6
169GangesVD 10
170Crackless BottomE1 5b 6
171Soft TopE1 5a 11
 Unknow / New / Awaiting Moderation 
173Huway in a Manger
-
f6B+ *1
174Rock Huway
-
f7A *1

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graeme Hammond