Dovestone Tor

Climbs 163 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 600m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
The Derwent Edges are a line of weathered outcrops with a splendid outlook over the Derwent reservoirs. The longer approaches mean they are never busy, and you won't find any polished holds on the rough grit! With the exception of Dovestone Tor (20m) few outcrops are higher than 8m and coupled with recent bouldering developments make this a pleasant soloing venue. Dovestone Tor itself has many excellent routes, mainly in the low to middle grades, of which the best is Great Buttress (E1 5b).

Access notes

From parking just north of the Strines Inn at a bend in the road (SK 221909) follow a well-used path across the moor to the middle of the edge (40 min); or

From Parking in a large layby east of Cutthroat Bridge on the A55 Sheffield - Glossop road. Follow the footpath from the bridge, initially north then west to reach the southern end of the outcrops (50 min).

Note the car park just north of Strines has been closed since Dec 2008 and will be for 3-5 years to allow timber lorries to access. This leaves limited parking on the roadside.

Peak Bouldering (2014), Eastern Grit (2006), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994), Peak Climbs - Stanage (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Roof of MantelsV4 f6b *3
3Andy's Arete Left-HandV7 *2
4Andy's AreteV6 **5
6Roof Route 2V3 f 6a+ 1
7Roof route 3V1 f 5+ 1
9Flagstone Roof LeftV1 5c 1
10Flagstone Roof RightV3 1
11Odd BlockV1 1
12Arched RoofV0+ 5a  
13Arch RightV0 5a  
14Chicken HeadV0 5a ** 
15Roof RouteV5 6b * 
16Low Roof LeftV3 6a * 
17Low Roof MiddleV2 5c ** 
18Low Roof RightV3 6a ** 
19Low Roof Right RightV1 1
20Stone Dove SidewallV0 5
21Stone Dove LeftV2 *4
22Stone Dove RightV2 1
23Stone Dove CrackV0 4
24Chicken Head RockoverV1 2
25SquawkV4 6b 3
26Squawk TraverseV5 6b 1
27Squawk Traverse DirectV7 6c  
28Sick as a ParrotHVS 5a 7
29Sick BayVS 4b *14
30Handy Wall HoleS 4a 54
31ThunderbirdsS 4a 22
32WoodentopsS 4a 47
33StingrayVD 88
34Stingray AreteV2 6a 16
35Galaxy DoveV6 6b 1
36Interstellar PigeonV7 6c  
37The CavendishV0+ 5b 5
38Ouch!V0+ 5b  
39Jug of JusticeV1 5b 3
41Perfect Porthole ProblemV2 5c 32
42Huway-coldV2 6a 8
43Huway-dayV1 5b 14
44Hip Hip HuwayV5 6b  
45Play HuwayV1 5b 16
46Up Up and HuwayV0 4c ***23
47Curving AreteV4 6a **7
48The Dove From Abovef7B **1
49The Crow from Belowf7A+ **1
50Small Roof LeftV3 6a 1
51Small Roof RightV3 6a 3
53WindblastedD 155
54WindblownVD *152
55DomusnovasE2 5b 12
56JonahD 92
57Tight 'unsVS 5a 52
58TitaniumVS 5a *66
59TitanicVS 4c *94
60TitaniaVS 4c *114
61IltisHS 4b 48
62Pocket Rocket/OutflankedVS 5b 9
63OutfoxedVS 4c 5
64Fox's ChimneyM 24
65Foulstone WallVD 16
66Finerock RibVS 4c 14
67Scrapyard SlabS 4a 20
68Boneyard ButtressVD *46
69Boneyard AreteV3 6a 7
70The CompressorV6 6b 9
71Black Crimp problemV2 6a 8
72PolecatVS 4b *28
73Poll TaxedS 4a 21
74Pole-axedS 4a *84
75Jacobite's RouteVD **114
76Slow CookerS 4a 50
77SlocumS 4a *131
78First ComeHVS 5a 17
79GruyereVS 4c 37
81Dovestones GullyM 18
82Dovestones EdgeS 4a 72
83Dovestones WallVD **168
84A Little Green Eyed GodVS 4c *99
85Barney RubbleVS 4c **198
86Thread FlintstoneHVS 5b *33
87Brown WindsorVS 4b *43
88Mock TurtleE1 5b 10
89Great Buttress EliminateHVS 5a *16
90Lament for a ScotsmanE2 5b  
91Too Long GoneE4 6b  
92Great ButtressHVS 5a ***209
93SforzandoE4 6a 4
94Central ClimbVS 4c, 5a *22
95FennarioVS 4b, 4c *28
96Nippon, NippoffE3 6a 1
97TopsideS 4c 1
98Frodsham 3aS  
100The DiamondV3 6a  
101Gargoyle TraverseHS 4b *15
102CavemanS 4b 14
103Dead on a RivalE5 6b * 
104Woodhouse's Wandering WayE3 5c 2
105Stony FacedE2 5c *9
106Gargoyle ButtressVS 4c *19
107Barker's Got a Sweat OnHVS 5a 2
108Conservative TendenciesVS 4c 4
110CankerVD 35
111Back BlastHVS 5b 1
112Wind TunnelM *28
113HurricaneVD *39
114TyphoonHVS 5b 1
115Route 1VS 4c ***228
116The Shylock FinishHVS 5a *68
117Blue VelvetE1 6a *9
118Claw ClimbHVS 5a *42
119TalonVS 4b *51
120Lancaster FlybyE1 5b **169
121Route IIVS 4b *29
122Blue HareVS 4c 2
123Grindle CrackHVD *13
124Grinder WallS 6
125A'rete DoD 7
126Another Left WallS 5
127Another Flaky WallVD 2
128Another Right WallS  
129Left BehindHS 1
130Frodsham 3cVS 5a 1
131Right AheadS 2
132StairwayD 4
133LaybyVD 3
134Pock MarkS 2
136BarefootD 105
137Slab HappyS 4b 102
138Step It UpS 4c 84
139Groovy MovesS 4b 46
140Jam On ItHVS 5a 2
141SquirmHVS 5a 1
142Hang 'em HighHS 5b 5
143Chicken HeadE2 5c *4
144PleasantD 23
145Spring NightHVS 5b *6
146Autumn DayE1 5b **28
147Stretch MarksE1 6a *5
148Razor CutVS 4b 6
149RockyD 32
150BlockyHVD 21
151Hanging TreeHVS 5b  
152Easy GroundHVS 5b *1
153ExcelHVS 5b **23
154SwinwoodE1 5b 5
155Smokin'E1 5b 1
156Landing CraftHVS 5b 1
157Amen CornerHS 4b 4
158Old Man's CornerVD 14
159Village GreenVS 5a 9
160LamboHS 4a *44
161BertieE1 5c *6
162BluntHVS 5b *7
163PhilbyHVS 5a 14
164Granny SmithE1 5b * 
165Cox's PippinHVS 5a *5
166GangesVD 10
167Crackless BottomE1 5b 4
168Soft TopE1 5a 9
170Huway in a Manger f6B+ *1
171Half the World Huway f7A **1
172Rock Huway f7A *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graeme Hammond

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The walk from Cut Throat bridge is longer, but an easier angle with good views. If you are approaching the crag for the first time from this direction, it is probably easier to walk along the top on the good path to the northern end of the crag, and then drop down to the first buttress. The 'path' under the crag at the southern end (White Tor) isn't as good and the buttresses are well spread out.
Nick Smith - UKC - 31/Jul/08