Hartland Quay

Climbs 62 – Rocktype Culm – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
Tidal bouldering, only cut off for an hour either side of high tide. Problems of all grades up to 8a, with an emphasis on the harder

problems.

Trad routes to be found on www.javu.co.uk.

Bouldering Guide to be found here: http://info.rockrun.com/hartland-quay-miniguide.html or on www.javu.co.uk

Guidebooks
North Devon and Cornwall (2000), Javu website new routes, www.rustypeg.co.uk

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 NORTH OF THE HOTEL  
2Gloss over the Mattf7C * 
3Hartland Aretef5+ *4
4Quay to the Hartf6C+ 2
5Pocket Aretef6A+ *15
6Easy Wallf4 *15
7Clinical Edgef7B **35
8Me Julief7B *20
9Egg Nishnaf7B 9
10Ball Achef7B *12
11Ache Ballf7C+ **16
12Juggy Traversef6B *2
13Ache Ball Traversef7A+ *7
14Ache Ball Traverse Extensonf7B+ *2
15Trench Wallf5 **31
16Trench Crackf4+ *46
17Jas' Wall (Left-Hand)f5+ 46
18Jas' Wallf5+ **49
19Trench Eliminatef7A *38
20Trench Dynof6C *23
21Bloody Noraf6C+ 31
22Trenchfootf7A 20
23Trench Traversef7B *2
24Grizzly BearE3 5b 1
 SOUTH OF THE HOTEL  
26Sundancef7A+ 1
27Raindancef7B 2
28Hartland Pillarf5+ 2
29Carnagef7B ***30
30People of the Shiref8A ** 
31Corridors of Powerf7C ***12
32Supercedef8A ***2
33Northern Exposuref7B ** 
34Misguided Ghostsf6C+ 1
35Freddie Freeloaderf6C+ **6
 HARTLAND ROOF COVE  
37Hartland Rooff7B+ *1
38Brutal Spoonf7A+ *1
39Full powerf6C *12
40Total Powerf7A **10
41Slight Groovef6B **8
42Braunton Wanderersf7B **4
 SPEKES MILL MOUTH ARCH  
44Contortionf7B+ **1
45The End is Nighf8A ***8
 TRAD ROUTES  
47Barely PossibleVS 4b 1
48ConsolationD  
49Gripped by the BeastE6 6a ** 
50Crunchy Nut CrackE1 5b 1
51Cereal KillerE5 6b ** 
52Fibres EdgeE1 5a  
53Broken FaceE1 5b  
54Autumn GoldE2 5c * 
55FirethornE4 6a ** 
56KALEIT NEMARAE3 6a * 
57NUCKELAVEEE4 6b ** 
58SHAPE SHIFTERHVS 5b  
59BROKEN BLINKVS 4b  
60MADE IN THE SHADEE4 6a/b ** 
61Stag Night FrightXS 5a  
62JerusalemXS 5b  
63Crystal Maze *A2 1
64The Revolution is Coming *f8A ***1
65Opposite Raindance *f7A+ **1
66Clinical Traverse *f7B+ **1
67Aching Balls *f8A **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer jakes

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The trench is full of pebbles after the winter storms and a lot of the problems are much shorter now with different easier grades. There is even a boulder under the dyno making it more of a jump. With sit starts you can just about do the original routes....
Chad123 - 09/Jul/14
The starting handholds and the starting heel hook of Ache Ball have both broken off at some point (I guess during the winter storms). What's left is a much better heel hook and, maybe, better starting handholds too. May well take the grade down to 7C.
jakes - 06/Apr/10
An amazing looking horizontal roof crack project exists in the Ache Ball cave. A must for any crack climbing wads.
jakes - 02/Sep/09
FOUND LOTS OF EASIER GRADE BOULDERING GOOD TRAVERSE AROUND THROUGH THE CAVE .THE TRENCH ALMOST DIRECTLY OUTSIDE THE CAVE NEEDS SOME INSPECTION TOO . DONT BE PUT OFF BY COMMENTS OF HARDER PROBLEMS!.
chunk - 04/Oct/05
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 05/Oct/2012
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