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These details were last updated on 13/Mar/2013

Porth Ysgo

Gwynedd, WALES

Climbs 165 – Rocktype Gabbro – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
Bouldering by the sea a couple of miles from Hell's Mouth in the Lleyn Peninsula.

A beautiful venue by the sea, with some good boulders.

Most of the boulders are not tidal.

However, mats are essential as there are a lot of high ball problems and the landings are not good.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
North Wales Bouldering / Bowldro Gogledd Cymru (2004)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 AREA 1  
2The SeatV0+ *1
3Sweet DessertsV8  
4Area 1 Problem 3V1 *15
5Area 1 Problem 4V0- *19
6Grump SlapV4 *7
7Hogiau LlangefniV5 *3
8Area 1 Problem 7V1 *7
9Area 1 Problem 8V1 *4
10Area 1 Problem 9V2 *5
 AREA 2  
12Super CheersV0 *22
13Super Cheers (SDS)V5 6
14Area 2 Problem 2V0 *32
15Fantastic DayV3 27
16Area 2 Problem 4V0- *31
17The Ysgo FlangeV2 **94
18Area 2 Problem 6V3 *36
19Full FlangellationV8+ ** 
20Area 2 Problem 7V2 8
21Area 2, Problem 7 SDSf7A **5
22Area 2 Problem 9V0- *28
23Area 2 Problem 10V0- *30
24Area 2 Problem 11V1 *2
25TruthV1 **64
26Truth sdsV8 12
27JusticeV1 *44
28Justice SDSV6 1
29Area 2 Problem 13V0 **1
30Area 2 Problem 13 LHSV2 1
31Really Cool ToysV0+ *30
32Really Cool Toys SDSV6 *20
33Toys Right HandV6 *6
34Chaos Theory (problem 16 area2)V8+  
35Calm Before The StormV7 ** 
36Area 2 Problem 17V0 *7
37Area 2 Problem 18V0 *7
38Area 2 Problem 19V0 *4
39Area 2 Problem 20V0 *3
40Ysbeidiau HeulogV4 **11
41Higginson's ScarV4 6a ***88
42Higginson Scar Right-HandV6 4
43Area 2 Problem 25V1 *14
44Area 2 Problem 26V0+ *14
45Dolly RockerV11  
46Scar faceV2 ** 
47Slap handedV5 *** 
48Crack slapV2 ** 
49Winter swellV5 ** 
 AREA 3  
51Paddle FootV6 3
52JoystickV2 **20
53joy stick sdV7 *11
54Jones' EliminateV3 *15
55Jones' Eliminate SSV8 **4
56GrooveriderV0 **37
57Area 3 Problem 5V0- **16
58Area 3 Problem 6V0- *14
59SimplicityV0+ **15
60Black Krispy TraverseV5 *2
61Area 3 Problem 10V0 *7
62BK AreteV4 *3
63Area 3 Problem 12V0 *5
64Area 3 Problem 13V0 **6
65Area 3 Problem 14V0 2
66Area 3 Problem 17V0 2
67Area 3 Problem 18V0- 7
68Area 3 Problem 19V2 3
69Area 3 Problem 20V1 *5
70PG's SlabV1 **4
71The Incredible Shaking ManV3 ***52
72the incredible shaking man sdV7 ***26
73Perrin's CrackV2 ***65
74perrin's crack sdV7 **13
75Beach Boy AreteV4 **36
76Beach Boys Arete SDSV5 **11
77Pet SoundsV8+  
78Uncle Pete's GrooveV0+ **12
79Area 3 Problem 30V0 *1
 AREA 4  
81Van GuffV0- **13
82Klem's WallV3 3
83Adam's WallV3 4
84Brave Sir NoelV2 2
85Cured WeaklingV6 ***6
86VG CentralV3 4
87The Ysgo FlakeV3 **10
88Throbbin's AreteV4 **1
 Climb nameGradex
89Area 4 Problem 11V0 *5
90Area 4 Problem 12V0- *6
91Area 4 Problem 13V0- *4
 AREA 5  
93Here Comes The Sun SDSV6  
94Foam PartyV6 **18
95Conservative PartyV8+  
96Area 5 Problem 5V0- *4
97Area 5 Problem 6V0- *3
98Area 5 problem 7V1 **2
99Area 5 problem 9V1 *1
100Area 5 Problem 11V7 1
101The ShelfV0+ *20
102The RampV3 ***82
103Porn Makes Me HornyV10  
104Brian SprayV5 *24
105Unmarked GraveV4 **35
106Tide Of DreamsV10  
107Talking DogV4 *9
108Talking CloserV6 **2
109CloserV3 **53
 AREA 6  
111Red RumV2 *13
112Floppys AreteV0+ **22
113Johnny's SlabV4 **22
114Ysgo CrackV1 ***46
115Lip FlipV6 **1
116Lip Flip SDSV9  
117Area 6 problem 11V0- *2
118Area 6 problem 13V0+ *2
119Area 6 Problem 17V0- *4
 AREA 7  
121Howling HoundV7 *13
122Tents at Midnightf7A **1
123The 11 O'Clock ShowV6 **3
124Ugly WomenV3 **45
125Early Morning WigwamV6 **4
126Tough DogsV1 *20
127Fast CarsV5 ***54
128Area 7 Slab Opposite Fast CarsV0 *4
129ThrobberV6 1
130mutant childV5 **18
131Mutant Child SDSV8 ***8
132AnacondaV9 1
133Lo LoV12  
134Area 7 Problem 10V7  
 AREA 8  
136Shredded FeetV1 **8
137Rice Krispy AreteV0- **13
138Area 8 Problem 3V1 2
139popcorn partyV6 ***55
140Unnamed V0-V0- *2
141Unnamed V0V0 *5
142Jets to BrazilV5 *11
143JawbreakerV5 **39
144jaw breakerV5 **18
145Jawbreaker SSf7B ***1
 AREA 9  
147Away From the NumbersV6 **4
148American RafikiV4 **10
149Ding Dong's Arete SDSV8  
 AREA 10  
151Heaven GrooveV2 **3
152Made In HeavenV4 ***10
153Fear of GodV5 **1
154Stairway..V1 **2
155The SlotV7  
156hanging bell traverseV5 1
157V3V3 * 
158AVB  
159Toffee CrispV6 1
160Ugly HoundsV3 * 
161PianoV2 * 
162Left Said FredV11  
163Watch Me JumpstartV6  
164Simon's Arete SDSV8+  
165The UncleV7  
166Opus CampusV8+  
167What It Is To BurnV11  
168BubblesV8  
169Sack The PreacherV8  
170Ble Mae CharlieV6 2
171GWPV6  
172Nodder's FlakeV5 1
173Simon's AreteV6 *2
174Dringo GaeafV7 ** 
175RawhideV7 ** 
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Porth Ysgo Tide times - http://magicseaweed.com/Hells-Mouth-Surf-Report/27/tide/uk/#forecastTable
Beastly Squirrel ? - 25/Jun/11

Fantastic rock - good friction (not quite gritstone) and great holds (not quite font) make a superb combination and probably amongst the best climbing I've done. Stacks of rock, and you could invent new problems all day! You really need a pad because of the rocky landings, but where possible people have "filled in" the bigger holes so that the landings are ok with a pad. Some of the boulders are tidal and some aren't, but there is plenty to do even if the tide is in. There is also a small beach on the far right side looking out to sea, which you can get to down the wooden steps. This is excellent for kids, and there is some bouldering here to that doesn't seem to be in the guidebook for some reason.
RobertHepburn - 04/Sep/06