Climbs 199
Rocktype Gabbro

A beautiful day at Porth Ysgo. The Higginson Scar, V4. © Simon Richardson

Crag features

Bouldering by the sea a couple of miles from Hell's Mouth in the Lleyn Peninsula.

A beautiful venue by the sea, with some good boulders.

Most of the boulders are not tidal.

However, mats are essential as there are a lot of high ball problems and the landings are not good.

Porth Ysgo Tide times - http://magicseaweed.com/Hells-Mouth-Surf-Report/27/tide/uk/#forecastTable
Beastly Squirrel - 25/Jun/11
Fantastic rock - good friction (not quite gritstone) and great holds (not quite font) make a superb combination and probably amongst the best climbing I've done. Stacks of rock, and you could invent new problems all day! You really need a pad because of the rocky landings, but where possible people have "filled in" the bigger holes so that the landings are ok with a pad. Some of the boulders are tidal and some aren't, but there is plenty to do even if the tide is in. There is also a small beach on the far right side looking out to sea, which you can get to down the wooden steps. This is excellent for kids, and there is some bouldering here to that doesn't seem to be in the guidebook for some reason.
RobertHepburn - 04/Sep/06
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Area 1 
2The SeatV0+ *4
3Sweet DessertsV8  
4Area 1 Problem 3V1 *18
5Area 1 Problem 4
-
V0- *22
6Grump SlapV4 *10
7Hogiau LlangefniV5 *3
8Area 1 Problem 7
-
V1 *9
9Area 1 Problem 8
-
V1 *4
10Area 1 Problem 9
-
V2 *6
 Area 2 
12Super Cheers
-
V0 *31
13Super Cheers (SDS)V5 11
14Area 2 Problem 2
-
V0 *50
15Fantastic DayV3 38
16Area 2 Problem 4
-
V0- *42
17Flange AreteV4 *2
18The Ysgo Flange
-
V2 **159
19Full FlangellationV8+ ** 
20Simon's AreteV6 *4
21Simon's Arete SDSV8+  
22Area 2 Problem 6
-
V3 *54
23PianoV2 *1
24Ble Mae CharlieV6 3
25GWPV6 1
26RawhideV7 ** 
27Area 2 Problem 7V2 20
28Area 2, Problem 7 SDSf7A **15
29Area 2, problem 8
-
V5 1
30Area 2 Problem 9V0- *37
31Area 2 Problem 10
-
V0- *38
32Area 2 Problem 11V1 *3
33Truth
-
V1 **105
34Truth sdsV8 21
35Justice
-
V1 *67
36Justice SDS
-
V6 4
37Area 2 Problem 13
-
V0 **2
38Area 2 Problem 13 LHSV2 1
39Really Cool ToysV0+ *42
40Really Cool Toys SDSV6 *40
41Toys Right HandV6 *9
42Chaos Theory (problem 16 area2)V8+  
43Calm Before The StormV7 ** 
44Area 2 Problem 17
-
V0 *10
45Area 2 Problem 18
-
V0 *10
46Area 2 Problem 19V0 *7
47Area 2 Problem 20V0 *6
48Ysbeidiau Heulog
-
V4 **23
49Higginson's Scar
-
V4 ***145
50Higginson Scar Right-HandV6 7
51Area 2 Problem 25
-
V1 *16
52Area 2 Problem 26
-
V0+ *14
53What It Is To BurnV11 1
54Dolly RockerV11  
55Scar faceV2 ** 
56Slap handedV5 ***2
57Crack slapV2 **2
58Dringo GaeafV5 ***1
59Winter swellV5 ** 
60Ysgo MagicV6 ***3
 Area 3 
62Paddle FootV6 5
63JoystickV2 **30
64Joystick SS
-
V7 *13
65Jones' EliminateV3 *26
66Jones' Eliminate SSV8 **5
67Grooverider
-
V0 **54
68Area 3 Problem 5
-
V0- **24
69Area 3 Problem 6
-
V0- *21
70Simplicity
-
V0+ **20
71Black Krispy TraverseV5 *3
72Area 3 Problem 10
-
V0 *9
73BK AreteV4 *6
74Area 3 Problem 12
-
V0 *8
75Area 3 Problem 13V0 **7
76Area 3 Problem 14
-
V0 5
77Area 3 Problem 17
-
V0 2
78Area 3 Problem 18
-
V0- 13
79Area 3 Problem 19V2 3
80Watch Me JumpstartV6  
81Area 3 Problem 20V1 *5
82PG's SlabV1 **7
83The UncleV7  
84Opus CampusV8+  
85The Incredible Shaking ManV3 ***86
86The Incredible Shaking Man SS
-
V7 ***47
87Perrin's CrackV2 ***106
88Perrin's Crack SS
-
V7 **15
89Beach Boy Arete
-
V4 **55
90Beach Boys Arete SDS
-
V5 **23
91Pet SoundsV8+ 1
92Uncle Pete's Groove
-
V0+ **22
93Area 3 Problem 30
-
V0 *1
 Area 4 
95Van GuffV0- **18
96Klem's WallV3 3
97Adam's WallV3 4
98Brave Sir NoelV2 2
99Cured WeaklingV6 ***6
100VG CentralV3 **6
101Sack The PreacherV8 ** 
102Area 4 problem 7V0 *1
103Area 4 problem 7 SDSV0+ *1
104The Ysgo FlakeV3 **14
105Throbbin's AreteV4 **2
106Area 4 Problem 11
-
V0 *5
107Area 4 Problem 12
-
V0- *8
108Area 4 Problem 13
-
V0- *5
109Nodder's FlakeV5 1
 Area 5 
111BubblesV8  
112Here Comes The SunV2 **4
113Here Comes The Sun SDS
-
V6  
114Foam PartyV6 **24
115Conservative PartyV8+  
116Area 5 Problem 5
-
V0- *5
117Area 5 Problem 6
-
V0- *4
118Area 5 problem 7
-
V1 **3
119Area 5 problem 9
-
V1 *1
120Shred Aretef6B+ *1
121Area 5 Problem 11
-
V7 1
122The Shelf
-
V0+ *27
123The RampV3 ***127
124The Ramp DirectV3 **3
125Porn Makes Me HornyV10 3
126Brian SprayV5 *43
127Unmarked GraveV4 **57
128Unmarked RampV4 **5
129Tide Of DreamsV10 3
130Talking DogV4 *12
131Talking CloserV6 **3
132CloserV3 **78
 Area 6 
134Red RumV2 *16
135Floppys AreteV0+ **34
136The Ysgo Fear TestV2 *1
137Johnny's SlabV4 **30
138Ysgo CrackV1 ***84
139Lip FlipV6 **1
140Lip Flip SDSV9  
141The Fred Nicole Roof
-
f8B *** 
142Left Said FredV11  
143Area 6 problem 11
-
V0- *2
144Area 6 problem 13
-
V0+ *2
145Area 6 Problem 17
-
V0- *4
146Hanging Bell Traverse
-
V5 1
 Area 7 
148Howling HoundV7 *19
149Tents at MidnightV6 **4
150The 11 O'Clock Show
-
V6 **3
151Ugly WomenV3 **80
152Ugly HoundsV3 *1
153Early Morning WigwamV6 **6
154Tough Dogs
-
V1 *28
155Fast CarsV5 ***82
156Area 7 Slab Opposite Fast Cars
-
V0 *4
157ThrobberV6 4
158Mutant Child
-
V5 **34
159Mutant Child SDSV8 ***16
160AnacondaV9 7
161Lo Lo CrouchV10 1
162Lo LoV12  
163Area 7 Problem 10
-
V7  
 Area 8 
165Shredded Feet
-
V1 **11
166Rice Krispy Arete
-
V0- **18
167Rice Krispy Arete SDS
-
V4 **1
168Area 8 Problem 3
-
V1 2
169Popcorn PartyV6 ***101
170Toffee CrispV6 **2
171Unnamed V0-V0- *2
172Unnamed V0V0 *6
173Jets to BrazilV5 *16
174JawbreakerV5 **104
175Jawbreaker SSf7B ***2
 Area 9 
177Away From the NumbersV6 **6
178American Rafiki
-
V4 **15
179American Idiotf7A+ ** 
 Area 10 
181V3 area 10V3 1
182Heaven GrooveV2 **7
183Trons BrownV4 ***3
184Made In HeavenV4 ***27
185Fear of God
-
V5 **2
186Stairway..V1 **3
187The Prodigal Sonf6B+ *** 
188The Prodigal Son SSf7A *** 
189The Buttermilks Buzzf6B **1
190The Buttermilks Buzz SSf7A ** 
191Ding Dong's Arete SDSV8 ***3
192The SlotV7  
 Far Side Block 
194The Far Sidef7A **2
195Black Streakf7B ** 
196School For the Giftedf7A ** 
197Larsenf7B+ **1
198Thagomizerf7A+ ***3
199Dringo Gaeaf LowV7 *** 
200Belly FlopV2 * 
201Area 2 Problem 22V0 * 
202Area 3 Problem 8V5 * 
203Area 3 Problem 15V0+  
204Area 3 Problem 16V1 ** 
205Yard dogV0+ * 
206Uncle Pete's AreteV1 * 
207Area 5 problem 8V1 ** 
208Mat's slabV0 *1
209The Smith routeV2 ** 
210Willy's CrackV5 ** 

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens