Castle Naze

Climbs 101 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 400m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A minor edge of mostly sound, weathered natural rock, with a looser sandy section beyond. Exposed to the elements, but quick drying with the majority of routes in the low to middle grades up to 15m in height. In particular the historical significant climb, The Scoop (HVS 5a).

Access notes
From Doveholes on the A6 (Buxton to Chapel-en-le-Frith) follow signs to the railway station. 200m past railway bridge head left (Cowlow Lane) for 1 mile to small layby (on left opposite footpath sign to Chapel). The crag and approach are obvious.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Staffordshire Gritstone, The Roaches (2009), Western Grit (2009), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Herford's Girdle TraverseVS 4b **17
3Double CrackVD *440
4The AreteHS 4b *326
5Easy CornerD 169
6Easy CrackD 196
7Right-hand CrackVD 179
8Pinnacle CrackVD 241
9Pinnacle AreteVD 276
10Sheltered CrackVD *561
11Bow CrackS 155
12Slanting CrackS 4a 307
13Overhanging Chockstone CrackVD *243
14The Fifth HorsemanHVS 5a 200
15IcebreakerE2 5b 66
16V CornerS 4b 167
17Thin CrackVS 4c 270
18Muscle CrackVD 361
19Bloody CrackS 4a 227
20Block CracksS 74
21The NoseVS 4b *221
23The NithinS 4a *456
24Flake CrackHS 4b 187
25Main CornerS 24
26The FlywalkS 4a *345
27The NicheS 4a **705
28Niche AreteVS 5a **318
29Orm and CheepE1 6a 27
30StudioHS 4b **690
31Nursery AreteHVS 5b *25
32A.P. 'absolutely perpendicular' ChimneyHS 4a *76
33Pod CrackE1 5c 44
34Pitoned CrackHVS 5b 25
35Pilgrim's ProgressHS 4b **474
36Little PillarVS 4b 203
37LedgewayHVS 5a 187
38Short But SweetHVS 6a 2
39Short and SweetV2 6a 10
40Short and sweet (sit start)V3 1
41No NameS 4b 250
42Keep ButtressHVS 5a 132
43Keep CornerS 4a *526
45Peek AreteVS 4c 1
46Keep AreteVS 4b **554
47Scoop Face IndirectVS 4c **34
48Scoop DirectHVS 5a *115
49Scoop FaceHVS 5a ***772
50Scoop Face DirectHVS 5b *95
51Scoop WallE1 5b *101
52Footstool LeftS 4a 156
53Piano StoolHVS 5a 16
54Footstool RightHVD 4a *186
55LaybackHVD 198
56Combs ClimbS 4a *238
57StaircaseHVD 182
59The Two-stepVD 43
60Fat Man's ChimneyM 81
61Come On EileenE2 5c  
62PlanktonE3 5c 4
63Assorted PondlifeHVS 5a 3
64Deep CrackVD 54
65Deep ChimneyVD 51
66Unbirthday climbE1 5b 4
67Birthday ClimbHVS 5b *32
68The CrackVS 4b ***480
69NozagVS 4c ***814
70Zigzag CrackHS 4b **188
71Zig-a-Zag-aD *210
72Long ClimbVD 162
74Central TowerVD *219
75AtropineVS 4b **209
76The Ugly BlokeE3 6a 3
77PrimadonnaE4 6a 5
78BelladonnaE1 5c *36
79Green CrackS 4a *73
80The BlusherVS 4b 2
81Morocc'n RollE1 5c 27
82Syringe BenefitE1 5c 3
83Columbal ConvenienceS 1
84Peg CrackE2 6a 3
85Iron Age FortitudeE4 6b **1
86Keith George: The MovieE1 5b * 
87Stoke The EnginesE1 5b *8
89Hodgkinson's ChimneyM 9
90South CrackD 6
91South ButtressD 12
92V-ChimneyD *16
93Southern AreteHS 4b 11
94Bubbly WallHVS 5a 3
95Vanishing CrackHS 4b *22
96The ViceD 6
97StruggleHS 4b 5
98BoomerangM 7
99Boomerang ButtressVS 4b 5
100Overhanging ChimneyHVD 6
101KoalaM 3
102The FaceV0 5a 2
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WARNING: As of the 13.05.12 the “hidden” flake was loosened by a climber, and the flake was deemed to be unsafe and the flake was subsequently removed. There may still be some loose rock, so be aware.
peat - 14/May/12
Super venue.
BennoC - 12/Jun/09
Come on all you sexigenarians or whatever the term is for a 6 decade piss artist. Last night I sampled the sublime delights of Timothy Taylor's Landlord at the Beehive. Oh yeah, nearly forgot - the climbing was pretty good too!
Colin Ardron - 02/Sep/05
I shouldn't really say this, but I think Castle Naze is a little unknown gem. Granted it's not an enormous crag, but it does have a lot going for it. It's generally pretty quiet with only a few people ever climbing there, and you might even find yourselves the only ones. That kind of solitude is pretty rare these days in the Peak. It also has, one could arguably say one of the best views in the Peak District and its pretty stunning on a nice sunny mid week evening. Even if the climbing isn't extensive, it does have (for me) some classic climbs. A note, it is pretty loose up top, so a helmet is definitely advisable. Finally, there is also a great pub down the hill in Combs called the Beehive which is a nice finish to an evening.
Stuart Barker - 10/Jan/03
The parking is very limited (3 cars) and the road single track. However, the walk from the ample parking at Chapel railway station, is pleasant and takes about 25 mins. Cross the track and take the RH path.
Paul J - 18/Jun/02
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 02/Dec/2012

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Find Listings near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)
Dedicated centre.
"27ft (8m in new money) of solid ice. Main features include 2 pillars, an overhang, gullies and a dry-tooling section. Mention when booking if you would like..."