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These details were last updated on 02/Dec/2012

Castle Naze

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 101 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 400m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A minor edge of mostly sound, weathered natural rock, with a looser sandy section beyond. Exposed to the elements, but quick drying with the majority of routes in the low to middle grades up to 15m in height. In particular the historical significant climb, The Scoop (HVS 5a).

Access notes
From Doveholes on the A6 (Buxton to Chapel-en-le-Frith) follow signs to the railway station. 200m past railway bridge head left (Cowlow Lane) for 1 mile to small layby (on left opposite footpath sign to Chapel). The crag and approach are obvious.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

0.9mm rain
Mainly cloudy
13 °C
16 kph

0.4mm rain
14 °C
15 kph

1.5mm rain
15 °C
30 kph

14.6mm rain
10 °C
22 kph

2.1mm rain
Mainly cloudy
12 °C
23 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Staffordshire Gritstone, The Roaches (2009), Western Grit (2009), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
2Herford's Girdle TraverseVS 4b **17
3Double CrackVD *435
4The AreteHS 4b *320
5Easy CornerD 166
6Easy CrackD 191
7Right-hand CrackVD 174
8Pinnacle CrackVD 238
9Pinnacle AreteVD 272
10Sheltered CrackVD *557
11Bow CrackS 152
12Slanting CrackS 4a 303
13Overhanging Chockstone CrackVD *239
14The Fifth HorsemanHVS 5a 200
15IcebreakerE2 5b 66
16V CornerS 4b 164
17Thin CrackVS 4c 269
18Muscle CrackVD 359
19Bloody CrackS 4a 225
20Block CracksS 71
21The NoseVS 4b *216
23The NithinS 4a *454
24Flake CrackHS 4b 184
25Main CornerS 23
26The FlywalkS 4a *342
27The NicheS 4a **700
28Niche AreteVS 5a **315
29Orm and CheepE1 6a 27
30StudioHS 4b **688
31Nursery AreteHVS 5b *25
32A.P. 'absolutely perpendicular' ChimneyHS 4a *75
33Pod CrackE1 5c 44
34Pitoned CrackHVS 5b 25
35Pilgrim's ProgressHS 4b **469
36Little PillarVS 4b 200
37LedgewayHVS 5a 185
38Short But SweetHVS 6a 2
39Short and SweetV2 6a 10
40Short and sweet (sit start)V3 1
41No NameS 4b 246
42Keep ButtressHVS 5a 130
43Keep CornerS 4a *522
45Peek AreteVS 4c 1
46Keep AreteVS 4b **551
47Scoop Face IndirectVS 4c **32
48Scoop DirectHVS 5a *112
49Scoop FaceHVS 5a ***765
50Scoop Face DirectHVS 5b *93
51Scoop WallE1 5b *101
 Climb nameGradex
52Footstool LeftS 4a 153
53Piano StoolHVS 5a 16
54Footstool RightHVD 4a *184
55LaybackHVD 197
56Combs ClimbS 4a *237
57StaircaseHVD 180
59The Two-stepVD 41
60Fat Man's ChimneyM 80
61Come On EileenE2 5c  
62PlanktonE3 5c 4
63Assorted PondlifeHVS 5a 3
64Deep CrackVD 54
65Deep ChimneyVD 49
66Unbirthday climbE1 5b 4
67Birthday ClimbHVS 5b *32
68The CrackVS 4b ***473
69NozagVS 4c ***811
70Zigzag CrackHS 4b **184
71Zig-a-Zag-aD *210
72Long ClimbVD 160
74Central TowerVD *218
75AtropineVS 4b **209
76The Ugly BlokeE3 6a 3
77PrimadonnaE4 6a 5
78BelladonnaE1 5c *36
79Green CrackS 4a *72
80The BlusherVS 4b 2
81Morocc'n RollE1 5c 27
82Syringe BenefitE1 5c 3
83Columbal ConvenienceS 1
84Peg CrackE2 6a 3
85Iron Age FortitudeE4 6b **1
86Keith George: The MovieE1 5b * 
87Stoke The EnginesE1 5b *8
89Hodgkinson's ChimneyM 9
90South CrackD 6
91South ButtressD 12
92V-ChimneyD *16
93Southern AreteHS 4b 11
94Bubbly WallHVS 5a 3
95Vanishing CrackHS 4b *22
96The ViceD 6
97StruggleHS 4b 5
98BoomerangM 7
99Boomerang ButtressVS 4b 5
100Overhanging ChimneyHVD 6
101KoalaM 3
102The FaceV0 5a 2
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WARNING: As of the 13.05.12 the “hidden” flake was loosened by a climber, and the flake was deemed to be unsafe and the flake was subsequently removed. There may still be some loose rock, so be aware.
peat - 14/May/12

Super venue.
BennoC - 12/Jun/09

Come on all you sexigenarians or whatever the term is for a 6 decade piss artist. Last night I sampled the sublime delights of Timothy Taylor's Landlord at the Beehive. Oh yeah, nearly forgot - the climbing was pretty good too!
Colin Ardron - 02/Sep/05

I shouldn't really say this, but I think Castle Naze is a little unknown gem. Granted it's not an enormous crag, but it does have a lot going for it. It's generally pretty quiet with only a few people ever climbing there, and you might even find yourselves the only ones. That kind of solitude is pretty rare these days in the Peak. It also has, one could arguably say one of the best views in the Peak District and its pretty stunning on a nice sunny mid week evening. Even if the climbing isn't extensive, it does have (for me) some classic climbs. A note, it is pretty loose up top, so a helmet is definitely advisable. Finally, there is also a great pub down the hill in Combs called the Beehive which is a nice finish to an evening.
Stuart Barker - 10/Jan/03

The parking is very limited (3 cars) and the road single track. However, the walk from the ample parking at Chapel railway station, is pleasant and takes about 25 mins. Cross the track and take the RH path.
Paul J - 18/Jun/02