Castle Naze

Climbs 101 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 400m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A minor edge of mostly sound, weathered natural rock, with a looser sandy section beyond. Exposed to the elements, but quick drying with the majority of routes in the low to middle grades up to 15m in height. In particular the historical significant climb, The Scoop (HVS 5a).

Access notes
From Doveholes on the A6 (Buxton to Chapel-en-le-Frith) follow signs to the railway station. 200m past railway bridge head left (Cowlow Lane) for 1 mile to small layby (on left opposite footpath sign to Chapel). The crag and approach are obvious.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Staffordshire Gritstone, The Roaches (2009), Western Grit (2009), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 PINNACLE AREA  
2Herford's Girdle TraverseVS 4b **18
3Double CrackVD *470
4The AreteHS 4b *345
5Easy CornerD 190
6Easy CrackD 219
7Right-hand CrackVD 205
8Pinnacle CrackVD 261
9Pinnacle AreteVD 299
10Sheltered CrackVD *597
11Bow CrackHVD 3c 172
12Slanting CrackS 4a 329
13Overhanging Chockstone CrackVD *260
14The Fifth HorsemanHVS 5a 212
15IcebreakerE2 5b 76
16V CornerS 4b 178
17Thin CrackVS 5a 291
18Muscle CrackVD 386
19Bloody CrackS 4a 242
20Block CracksS 78
21The NoseVS 4b *243
 PILGRIM'S PROGRESS AREA  
23The NithinS 4a *489
24Flake CrackHS 4b 199
25Main CornerS 25
26The FlywalkS 4a *367
27The NicheS 4a **759
28Niche AreteVS 5a **335
29Orm and CheepE1 6a 28
30StudioHS 4b **729
31Nursery AreteHVS 5b *30
32A.P. 'absolutely perpendicular' ChimneyHS 4a *80
33Pod CrackHVS 5b 49
34Pitoned CrackHVS 5b 25
35Pilgrim's ProgressHS 4b **503
36Little PillarVS 4b 211
37LedgewayHVS 5a 199
38Short But SweetHVS 6a 3
39Short and SweetV2 6a 13
40Short and sweet (sit start)V3 2
41No NameS 4b 262
42Keep ButtressHVS 5a 136
43Keep CornerS 4a *566
 THE SCOOP AREA  
45Peek AreteVS 4c 1
46Keep AreteVS 4b **592
47Scoop Face IndirectVS 4c **37
48Scoop DirectHVS 5b *122
49Scoop FaceHVS 5a ***813
50Scoop Face DirectHVS 5c *98
51Scoop WallE1 5b *101
52Footstool LeftS 4a 160
53Piano StoolHVS 5b 16
54Footstool RightHVD 4a *194
55LaybackVD 207
56Combs ClimbS 4a *257
57StaircaseHVD 192
 THE CRACK AREA  
59The Two-stepVD 44
60Fat Man's ChimneyM 85
61Come On EileenE2 5c  
62PlanktonE4 6a 4
63Assorted PondlifeHVS 5a 3
64Deep CrackVD 58
65Deep ChimneyVD 54
66Unbirthday climbE1 5b 4
67Birthday ClimbHVS 5b *32
68The CrackVS 4b ***509
69NozagVS 4c ***871
70Zigzag CrackHS 4b **201
71Zig-a-Zag-aVD *229
72Long ClimbVD 176
 CENTRAL TOWER  
74Central TowerVD *234
75AtropineVS 4b **221
76The Ugly BlokeE3 6a 3
77PrimadonnaE4 6a 5
78BelladonnaE1 5c *41
79Green CrackS 4a *79
80The BlusherVS 4b 2
81Morocc'n RollE1 5c 27
82Syringe BenefitE1 5c 3
83Columbal ConvenienceS 1
84Peg CrackE1 5c 3
85Iron Age FortitudeE4 6b **1
86Keith George: The MovieE1 5b *1
87Stoke The EnginesE1 5b *8
 SOUTH BUTTRESS  
89Hodgkinson's ChimneyM 9
90South CrackD 6
91South ButtressD 12
92V-ChimneyD *16
93Southern AreteHS 4b 11
94Bubbly WallHVS 5a 3
95Vanishing CrackHS 4b *22
96The ViceVD 6
97StruggleHS 4b 5
98BoomerangM 7
99Boomerang ButtressVS 4b 5
100Overhanging ChimneyHVD 6
101KoalaM 3
102The FaceV0 5a 2
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WARNING: As of the 13.05.12 the “hidden” flake was loosened by a climber, and the flake was deemed to be unsafe and the flake was subsequently removed. There may still be some loose rock, so be aware.
peat - 14/May/12
Super venue.
BennoC - 12/Jun/09
Come on all you sexigenarians or whatever the term is for a 6 decade piss artist. Last night I sampled the sublime delights of Timothy Taylor's Landlord at the Beehive. Oh yeah, nearly forgot - the climbing was pretty good too!
Colin Ardron - 02/Sep/05
I shouldn't really say this, but I think Castle Naze is a little unknown gem. Granted it's not an enormous crag, but it does have a lot going for it. It's generally pretty quiet with only a few people ever climbing there, and you might even find yourselves the only ones. That kind of solitude is pretty rare these days in the Peak. It also has, one could arguably say one of the best views in the Peak District and its pretty stunning on a nice sunny mid week evening. Even if the climbing isn't extensive, it does have (for me) some classic climbs. A note, it is pretty loose up top, so a helmet is definitely advisable. Finally, there is also a great pub down the hill in Combs called the Beehive which is a nice finish to an evening.
Stuart Barker - 10/Jan/03
The parking is very limited (3 cars) and the road single track. However, the walk from the ample parking at Chapel railway station, is pleasant and takes about 25 mins. Cross the track and take the RH path.
Paul J - 18/Jun/02