Climbs 101
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces W

Summer evening cragging © Marek

Crag features

A minor edge of mostly sound, weathered natural rock, with a looser sandy section beyond. Exposed to the elements, but quick drying with the majority of routes in the low to middle grades up to 15m in height. In particular the historical significant climb, The Scoop (HVS 5a).

Approach notes

From Doveholes on the A6 (Buxton to Chapel-en-le-Frith) follow signs to the railway station. 200m past railway bridge head left (Cowlow Lane) for 1 mile to small layby (on left opposite footpath sign to Chapel). The crag and approach are obvious.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
WARNING: As of the 13.05.12 the “hidden” flake was loosened by a climber, and the flake was deemed to be unsafe and the flake was subsequently removed. There may still be some loose rock, so be aware.
peat - 14/May/12
Super venue.
BennoC - 12/Jun/09
Come on all you sexigenarians or whatever the term is for a 6 decade piss artist. Last night I sampled the sublime delights of Timothy Taylor's Landlord at the Beehive. Oh yeah, nearly forgot - the climbing was pretty good too!
Colin Ardron - 02/Sep/05
I shouldn't really say this, but I think Castle Naze is a little unknown gem. Granted it's not an enormous crag, but it does have a lot going for it. It's generally pretty quiet with only a few people ever climbing there, and you might even find yourselves the only ones. That kind of solitude is pretty rare these days in the Peak. It also has, one could arguably say one of the best views in the Peak District and its pretty stunning on a nice sunny mid week evening. Even if the climbing isn't extensive, it does have (for me) some classic climbs. A note, it is pretty loose up top, so a helmet is definitely advisable. Finally, there is also a great pub down the hill in Combs called the Beehive which is a nice finish to an evening.
Stuart Barker - 10/Jan/03
The parking is very limited (3 cars) and the road single track. However, the walk from the ample parking at Chapel railway station, is pleasant and takes about 25 mins. Cross the track and take the RH path.
Paul J - 18/Jun/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Pinnacle Area 
2Herford's Girdle TraverseVS 4b **22
3Double CrackVD *542
4The AreteHS 4b *398
5Easy CornerD 239
6Easy Crack
-
D 275
7Right-hand Crack
-
VD 260
8Pinnacle CrackVD 312
9Pinnacle AreteVD 336
10Sheltered CrackVD *692
11Bow CrackHVD 3c 201
12Slanting CrackS 4a 387
13Overhanging Chockstone CrackVD *306
14The Fifth HorsemanHVS 5a 246
15IcebreakerE2 5b 93
16V CornerS 4b 208
17Thin CrackVS 5a 344
18Muscle CrackVD 431
19Bloody CrackS 4a 289
20Block Cracks
-
S 98
21The NoseVS 4b *291
 Pilgrim's Progress Area 
23The NithinS 4a *548
24Flake CrackHS 4b 224
25Main Corner
-
S 32
26The FlywalkS 4a *421
27The NicheS 4a **894
28Niche AreteVS 5a **392
29Orm and CheepE1 6a 37
30StudioHS 4b **851
31Nursery AreteHVS 5b *41
32A.P. 'absolutely perpendicular' ChimneyHS 4a *102
33Pod CrackHVS 5b 66
34Pitoned CrackHVS 5b 31
35Pilgrim's ProgressHS 4b **604
36Little PillarVS 4b 240
37LedgewayHVS 5a 232
38Short But SweetHVS 6a 4
39Short and SweetV2 13
40Short and sweet (sit start)
-
V3 2
41No NameS 4b 299
42Keep ButtressHVS 5a 156
43Keep CornerS 4a *667
 The Scoop Area 
45Peek AreteVS 4c 2
46Keep AreteVS 4b **712
47Scoop Face IndirectVS 4c **39
48Scoop DirectHVS 5b *149
49Scoop FaceHVS 5a ***1004
50Scoop Face DirectHVS 5c *105
51Scoop WallE1 5b *115
52Footstool LeftS 4a 179
53Piano StoolHVS 5b 16
54Footstool RightHVD 4a *233
55LaybackVD 240
56Combs ClimbS 4a *293
57StaircaseHVD 218
 The Crack Area 
59The Two-stepVD 50
60Fat Man's ChimneyM 91
61Come On EileenE2 5c  
62PlanktonE4 6a 5
63Assorted PondlifeHVS 5a 3
64Deep CrackVD 64
65Deep ChimneyVD 65
66Unbirthday climbE1 5b 4
67Birthday ClimbHVS 5b *37
68The CrackVS 4b ***636
69NozagVS 4c ***1087
70Zigzag CrackHS 4b **245
71Zig-a-Zag-aVD *272
72Long ClimbVD 196
 Central Tower 
74Central TowerVD *266
75AtropineVS 4b **283
76The Ugly BlokeE3 6a 3
77PrimadonnaE4 6a 5
78BelladonnaE1 5c *59
79Green CrackS 4a *94
80The Blusher
-
VS 4b 2
81Morocc'n RollE1 5c 30
82Syringe BenefitE1 5c 3
83Columbal Convenience
-
S 1
84Peg CrackE1 5c 4
85Iron Age FortitudeE4 6b **1
86Keith George: The Movie
-
E1 5b *1
87Stoke The EnginesE1 5b *9
 South Buttress 
89Hodgkinson's ChimneyM 10
90South CrackD 8
91South ButtressD 17
92V-ChimneyD *19
93Southern AreteHS 4b 11
94Bubbly WallHVS 5a 3
95Vanishing CrackHS 4b *25
96The ViceVD 7
97StruggleHS 4b 5
98BoomerangM 9
99Boomerang ButtressVS 4b 6
100Overhanging ChimneyHVD 6
101KoalaM 3
102The FaceV0 5

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