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These details were last updated on 02/Dec/2012

Castle Naze

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 97 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 400m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A minor edge of mostly sound, weathered natural rock, with a looser sandy section beyond. Exposed to the elements, but quick drying with the majority of routes in the low to middle grades up to 15m in height. In particular the historical significant climb, The Scoop (HVS 5a).

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales – Met Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Staffordshire Gritstone, The Roaches (2009), Western Grit (2009), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 PINNACLE AREA  
2Herford's Girdle TraverseVS 4b **16
3Double CrackVD *354
4The AreteHS 4b *262
5Easy CornerD 115
6Easy CrackD 139
7Right-hand CrackVD 120
8Pinnacle CrackVD 188
9Pinnacle AreteVD 223
10Sheltered CrackVD *446
11Bow CrackS 121
12Slanting CrackS 4a 239
13Overhanging Chockstone CrackVD *191
14The Fifth HorsemanHVS 5a 169
15IcebreakerE2 5b 59
16V CornerS 4b 125
17Thin CrackVS 4c 225
18Muscle CrackVD 296
19Bloody CrackS 4a 189
20Block CracksS 55
21The NoseVS 4b *179
 PILGRIM'S PROGRESS AREA  
23The NithinS 4a *365
24Flake CrackHS 4b 156
25Main CornerS 17
26The FlywalkS 4a *263
27The NicheS 4a **558
28Niche AreteVS 5a **252
29Orm and CheepE1 6a 21
30StudioHS 4b **559
31Nursery AreteHVS 5b *22
32A.P. 'absolutely perpendicular' ChimneyHS 4a *68
33Pod CrackE1 5c 36
34Pitoned CrackHVS 5b 16
35Pilgrim's ProgressHS 4b **377
36Little PillarVS 4b 157
37LedgewayHVS 5a 150
38Short But SweetHVS 6a 2
39Short and SweetV2 6a 9
40Short and sweet (sit start)V3 1
41No NameS 4b 196
42Keep ButtressHVS 5a 97
43Keep CornerS 4a *429
 THE SCOOP AREA  
45Peek AreteVS 4c 1
46Keep AreteVS 4b **438
47Scoop Face IndirectVS 4c **26
48Scoop DirectHVS 5a *86
49Scoop FaceHVS 5a ***588
50Scoop Face DirectHVS 5b *66
51Scoop WallE1 5b *77
 Climb nameGradex
52Footstool LeftS 4a 121
53Piano StoolHVS 5a 13
54Footstool RightHVD 4a *135
55LaybackHVD 158
56Combs ClimbS 4a *185
57StaircaseHVD 148
 THE CRACK AREA  
59The Two-stepVD 29
60Fat Man's ChimneyM 65
61Come On EileenE2 5c  
62PlanktonE3 5c 4
63Assorted PondlifeHVS 5a 3
64Deep CrackVD 42
65Deep ChimneyVD 42
66Unbirthday climbE1 5b 4
67Birthday ClimbHVS 5b *24
68The CrackVS 4b ***382
69NozagVS 4c ***628
70Zigzag CrackHS 4b **157
71Zig-a-Zag-aD *171
72Long ClimbVD 133
 CENTRAL TOWER  
74Central TowerVD *172
75AtropineVS 4b **158
76The Ugly BlokeE3 6a 3
77PrimadonnaE4 6a 4
78BelladonnaE1 5c *27
79Green CrackS 4a *53
80The BlusherVS 4b 2
81Morocc'n RollE1 5c 23
82Syringe BenefitE1 5c 3
83Columbal ConvenienceS 1
84Peg CrackE2 6a 3
85Iron Age FortitudeE4 6b **1
86Keith George: The MovieE1 5b * 
87Stoke The EnginesE1 5b *6
 SOUTH BUTTRESS  
89Hodgkinson's ChimneyM 6
90South CrackD 4
91South ButtressD 9
92V-ChimneyD *13
93Southern AreteHS 4b 8
94Bubbly WallHVS 5a 2
95Vanishing CrackHS 4b *18
96The ViceD 4
97StruggleHS 4b 4
98BoomerangM 5
99Boomerang ButtressVS 4b 4
100Overhanging ChimneyHVD 4
101KoalaM 3
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Access notes
From Doveholes on the A6 (Buxton to Chapel-en-le-Frith) follow signs to the railway station. 200m past railway bridge head left (Cowlow Lane) for 1 mile to small layby (on left opposite footpath sign to Chapel). The crag and approach are obvious.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
WARNING: As of the 13.05.12 the “hidden” flake was loosened by a climber, and the flake was deemed to be unsafe and the flake was subsequently removed. There may still be some loose rock, so be aware.
peat ? - 14/May/12

Super venue.
BennoC ? - 12/Jun/09

Come on all you sexigenarians or whatever the term is for a 6 decade piss artist. Last night I sampled the sublime delights of Timothy Taylor's Landlord at the Beehive. Oh yeah, nearly forgot - the climbing was pretty good too!
Colin Ardron - 02/Sep/05

I shouldn't really say this, but I think Castle Naze is a little unknown gem. Granted it's not an enormous crag, but it does have a lot going for it. It's generally pretty quiet with only a few people ever climbing there, and you might even find yourselves the only ones. That kind of solitude is pretty rare these days in the Peak. It also has, one could arguably say one of the best views in the Peak District and its pretty stunning on a nice sunny mid week evening. Even if the climbing isn't extensive, it does have (for me) some classic climbs. A note, it is pretty loose up top, so a helmet is definitely advisable. Finally, there is also a great pub down the hill in Combs called the Beehive which is a nice finish to an evening.
Stuart Barker - 10/Jan/03

The parking is very limited (3 cars) and the road single track. However, the walk from the ample parking at Chapel railway station, is pleasant and takes about 25 mins. Cross the track and take the RH path.
Paul J - 18/Jun/02