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These details were last updated on 02/Dec/2012

Castle Naze

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 101 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 400m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A minor edge of mostly sound, weathered natural rock, with a looser sandy section beyond. Exposed to the elements, but quick drying with the majority of routes in the low to middle grades up to 15m in height. In particular the historical significant climb, The Scoop (HVS 5a).

Access notes
From Doveholes on the A6 (Buxton to Chapel-en-le-Frith) follow signs to the railway station. 200m past railway bridge head left (Cowlow Lane) for 1 mile to small layby (on left opposite footpath sign to Chapel). The crag and approach are obvious.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

0.0mm rain
20 °C
17 kph

1.9mm rain
Mainly cloudy
20 °C
12 kph

0.4mm rain
21 °C
12 kph

3.3mm rain
15 °C
26 kph

12.4mm rain
Mainly cloudy
16 °C
19 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Staffordshire Gritstone, The Roaches (2009), Western Grit (2009), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
2Herford's Girdle TraverseVS 4b **17
3Double CrackVD *420
4The AreteHS 4b *310
5Easy CornerD 159
6Easy CrackD 182
7Right-hand CrackVD 157
8Pinnacle CrackVD 229
9Pinnacle AreteVD 263
10Sheltered CrackVD *535
11Bow CrackS 147
12Slanting CrackS 4a 293
13Overhanging Chockstone CrackVD *232
14The Fifth HorsemanHVS 5a 198
15IcebreakerE2 5b 66
16V CornerS 4b 153
17Thin CrackVS 4c 263
18Muscle CrackVD 348
19Bloody CrackS 4a 217
20Block CracksS 67
21The NoseVS 4b *209
23The NithinS 4a *441
24Flake CrackHS 4b 178
25Main CornerS 21
26The FlywalkS 4a *326
27The NicheS 4a **675
28Niche AreteVS 5a **304
29Orm and CheepE1 6a 26
30StudioHS 4b **669
31Nursery AreteHVS 5b *24
32A.P. 'absolutely perpendicular' ChimneyHS 4a *74
33Pod CrackE1 5c 44
34Pitoned CrackHVS 5b 25
35Pilgrim's ProgressHS 4b **450
36Little PillarVS 4b 193
37LedgewayHVS 5a 178
38Short But SweetHVS 6a 2
39Short and SweetV2 6a 10
40Short and sweet (sit start)V3 1
41No NameS 4b 237
42Keep ButtressHVS 5a 127
43Keep CornerS 4a *499
45Peek AreteVS 4c 1
46Keep AreteVS 4b **532
47Scoop Face IndirectVS 4c **31
48Scoop DirectHVS 5a *107
49Scoop FaceHVS 5a ***743
50Scoop Face DirectHVS 5b *89
51Scoop WallE1 5b *96
52Footstool LeftS 4a 144
53Piano StoolHVS 5a 15
54Footstool RightHVD 4a *174
 Climb nameGradex
55LaybackHVD 186
56Combs ClimbS 4a *224
57StaircaseHVD 173
59The Two-stepVD 35
60Fat Man's ChimneyM 73
61Come On EileenE2 5c  
62PlanktonE3 5c 4
63Assorted PondlifeHVS 5a 3
64Deep CrackVD 47
65Deep ChimneyVD 46
66Unbirthday climbE1 5b 4
67Birthday ClimbHVS 5b *30
68The CrackVS 4b ***460
69NozagVS 4c ***792
70Zigzag CrackHS 4b **176
71Zig-a-Zag-aD *195
72Long ClimbVD 151
74Central TowerVD *203
75AtropineVS 4b **197
76The Ugly BlokeE3 6a 3
77PrimadonnaE4 6a 5
78BelladonnaE1 5c *35
79Green CrackS 4a *70
80The BlusherVS 4b 2
81Morocc'n RollE1 5c 26
82Syringe BenefitE1 5c 3
83Columbal ConvenienceS 1
84Peg CrackE2 6a 3
85Iron Age FortitudeE4 6b **1
86Keith George: The MovieE1 5b * 
87Stoke The EnginesE1 5b *7
89Hodgkinson's ChimneyM 7
90South CrackD 4
91South ButtressD 10
92V-ChimneyD *14
93Southern AreteHS 4b 9
94Bubbly WallHVS 5a 2
95Vanishing CrackHS 4b *20
96The ViceD 5
97StruggleHS 4b 5
98BoomerangM 6
99Boomerang ButtressVS 4b 4
100Overhanging ChimneyHVD 6
101KoalaM 3
102Arête *HS 4a 1
103Right hand crack *D 7
104A zig a zag *VD 3
105V-Corner *S 4b 3
106The Face *V0 5a 2
107Easy Wall *D  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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WARNING: As of the 13.05.12 the “hidden” flake was loosened by a climber, and the flake was deemed to be unsafe and the flake was subsequently removed. There may still be some loose rock, so be aware.
peat - 14/May/12

Super venue.
BennoC - 12/Jun/09

Come on all you sexigenarians or whatever the term is for a 6 decade piss artist. Last night I sampled the sublime delights of Timothy Taylor's Landlord at the Beehive. Oh yeah, nearly forgot - the climbing was pretty good too!
Colin Ardron - 02/Sep/05

I shouldn't really say this, but I think Castle Naze is a little unknown gem. Granted it's not an enormous crag, but it does have a lot going for it. It's generally pretty quiet with only a few people ever climbing there, and you might even find yourselves the only ones. That kind of solitude is pretty rare these days in the Peak. It also has, one could arguably say one of the best views in the Peak District and its pretty stunning on a nice sunny mid week evening. Even if the climbing isn't extensive, it does have (for me) some classic climbs. A note, it is pretty loose up top, so a helmet is definitely advisable. Finally, there is also a great pub down the hill in Combs called the Beehive which is a nice finish to an evening.
Stuart Barker - 10/Jan/03

The parking is very limited (3 cars) and the road single track. However, the walk from the ample parking at Chapel railway station, is pleasant and takes about 25 mins. Cross the track and take the RH path.
Paul J - 18/Jun/02