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These details were last updated on 02/Dec/2012

Castle Naze

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 101 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 400m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A minor edge of mostly sound, weathered natural rock, with a looser sandy section beyond. Exposed to the elements, but quick drying with the majority of routes in the low to middle grades up to 15m in height. In particular the historical significant climb, The Scoop (HVS 5a).

Access notes
From Doveholes on the A6 (Buxton to Chapel-en-le-Frith) follow signs to the railway station. 200m past railway bridge head left (Cowlow Lane) for 1 mile to small layby (on left opposite footpath sign to Chapel). The crag and approach are obvious.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 

0.4mm rain
Sun
12 °C
21 kph

2.4mm rain
Cloudy
12 °C
19 kph

0.1mm rain
Sun
12 °C
13 kph

4.8mm rain
Mainly cloudy
15 °C
18 kph

37.9mm rain
Cloudy
18 °C
21 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Staffordshire Gritstone, The Roaches (2009), Western Grit (2009), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 PINNACLE AREA  
2Herford's Girdle TraverseVS 4b **17
3Double CrackVD *423
4The AreteHS 4b *310
5Easy CornerD 160
6Easy CrackD 183
7Right-hand CrackVD 157
8Pinnacle CrackVD 232
9Pinnacle AreteVD 263
10Sheltered CrackVD *540
11Bow CrackS 147
12Slanting CrackS 4a 295
13Overhanging Chockstone CrackVD *232
14The Fifth HorsemanHVS 5a 198
15IcebreakerE2 5b 66
16V CornerS 4b 155
17Thin CrackVS 4c 263
18Muscle CrackVD 350
19Bloody CrackS 4a 218
20Block CracksS 68
21The NoseVS 4b *212
 PILGRIM'S PROGRESS AREA  
23The NithinS 4a *445
24Flake CrackHS 4b 180
25Main CornerS 21
26The FlywalkS 4a *331
27The NicheS 4a **679
28Niche AreteVS 5a **307
29Orm and CheepE1 6a 26
30StudioHS 4b **676
31Nursery AreteHVS 5b *24
32A.P. 'absolutely perpendicular' ChimneyHS 4a *74
33Pod CrackE1 5c 44
34Pitoned CrackHVS 5b 25
35Pilgrim's ProgressHS 4b **459
36Little PillarVS 4b 193
37LedgewayHVS 5a 181
38Short But SweetHVS 6a 2
39Short and SweetV2 6a 10
40Short and sweet (sit start)V3 1
41No NameS 4b 240
42Keep ButtressHVS 5a 129
43Keep CornerS 4a *507
 THE SCOOP AREA  
45Peek AreteVS 4c 1
46Keep AreteVS 4b **537
47Scoop Face IndirectVS 4c **32
48Scoop DirectHVS 5a *109
49Scoop FaceHVS 5a ***751
50Scoop Face DirectHVS 5b *89
51Scoop WallE1 5b *99
52Footstool LeftS 4a 147
53Piano StoolHVS 5a 15
54Footstool RightHVD 4a *174
 Climb nameGradex
55LaybackHVD 188
56Combs ClimbS 4a *227
57StaircaseHVD 173
 THE CRACK AREA  
59The Two-stepVD 36
60Fat Man's ChimneyM 76
61Come On EileenE2 5c  
62PlanktonE3 5c 4
63Assorted PondlifeHVS 5a 3
64Deep CrackVD 50
65Deep ChimneyVD 47
66Unbirthday climbE1 5b 4
67Birthday ClimbHVS 5b *31
68The CrackVS 4b ***464
69NozagVS 4c ***799
70Zigzag CrackHS 4b **181
71Zig-a-Zag-aD *199
72Long ClimbVD 154
 CENTRAL TOWER  
74Central TowerVD *204
75AtropineVS 4b **200
76The Ugly BlokeE3 6a 3
77PrimadonnaE4 6a 5
78BelladonnaE1 5c *35
79Green CrackS 4a *70
80The BlusherVS 4b 2
81Morocc'n RollE1 5c 27
82Syringe BenefitE1 5c 3
83Columbal ConvenienceS 1
84Peg CrackE2 6a 3
85Iron Age FortitudeE4 6b **1
86Keith George: The MovieE1 5b * 
87Stoke The EnginesE1 5b *8
 SOUTH BUTTRESS  
89Hodgkinson's ChimneyM 7
90South CrackD 4
91South ButtressD 10
92V-ChimneyD *14
93Southern AreteHS 4b 9
94Bubbly WallHVS 5a 2
95Vanishing CrackHS 4b *20
96The ViceD 5
97StruggleHS 4b 5
98BoomerangM 6
99Boomerang ButtressVS 4b 4
100Overhanging ChimneyHVD 6
101KoalaM 3
102Arête *HS 4a 1
103Right hand crack *D 9
104A zig a zag *VD 3
105V-Corner *S 4b 4
106The Face *V0 5a 2
107Easy Wall *D  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
WARNING: As of the 13.05.12 the “hidden” flake was loosened by a climber, and the flake was deemed to be unsafe and the flake was subsequently removed. There may still be some loose rock, so be aware.
peat - 14/May/12

Super venue.
BennoC - 12/Jun/09

Come on all you sexigenarians or whatever the term is for a 6 decade piss artist. Last night I sampled the sublime delights of Timothy Taylor's Landlord at the Beehive. Oh yeah, nearly forgot - the climbing was pretty good too!
Colin Ardron - 02/Sep/05

I shouldn't really say this, but I think Castle Naze is a little unknown gem. Granted it's not an enormous crag, but it does have a lot going for it. It's generally pretty quiet with only a few people ever climbing there, and you might even find yourselves the only ones. That kind of solitude is pretty rare these days in the Peak. It also has, one could arguably say one of the best views in the Peak District and its pretty stunning on a nice sunny mid week evening. Even if the climbing isn't extensive, it does have (for me) some classic climbs. A note, it is pretty loose up top, so a helmet is definitely advisable. Finally, there is also a great pub down the hill in Combs called the Beehive which is a nice finish to an evening.
Stuart Barker - 10/Jan/03

The parking is very limited (3 cars) and the road single track. However, the walk from the ample parking at Chapel railway station, is pleasant and takes about 25 mins. Cross the track and take the RH path.
Paul J - 18/Jun/02