Castle Naze

Climbs 101 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 400m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A minor edge of mostly sound, weathered natural rock, with a looser sandy section beyond. Exposed to the elements, but quick drying with the majority of routes in the low to middle grades up to 15m in height. In particular the historical significant climb, The Scoop (HVS 5a).

Access notes
From Doveholes on the A6 (Buxton to Chapel-en-le-Frith) follow signs to the railway station. 200m past railway bridge head left (Cowlow Lane) for 1 mile to small layby (on left opposite footpath sign to Chapel). The crag and approach are obvious.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Western Grit (2009), Staffordshire Gritstone, The Roaches (2009), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 PINNACLE AREA 
2Herford's Girdle TraverseVS 4b **
3Double CrackVD *
4The AreteHS 4b *
5Easy CornerD
6Easy CrackD
7Right-hand CrackVD
8Pinnacle CrackVD
9Pinnacle AreteVD
10Sheltered CrackVD *
11Bow CrackS
12Slanting CrackS 4a
13Overhanging Chockstone CrackVD *
14The Fifth HorsemanHVS 5a
15IcebreakerE2 5b
16V CornerS 4b
17Thin CrackVS 4c
18Muscle CrackVD
19Bloody CrackS 4a
20Block CracksS
21The NoseVS 4b *
 PILGRIM'S PROGRESS AREA 
23The NithinS 4a *
24Flake CrackHS 4b
25Main CornerS
26The FlywalkS 4a *
27The NicheS 4a **
28Niche AreteVS 5a **
29Orm and CheepE1 6a
30StudioHS 4b **
31Nursery AreteHVS 5b *
32A.P. 'absolutely perpendicular' ChimneyHS 4a *
33Pod CrackE1 5c
34Pitoned CrackHVS 5b
35Pilgrim's ProgressHS 4b **
36Little PillarVS 4b
37LedgewayHVS 5a
38Short But SweetHVS 6a
39Short and SweetV2 6a
40Short and sweet (sit start)V3
41No NameS 4b
42Keep ButtressHVS 5a
43Keep CornerS 4a *
 THE SCOOP AREA 
45Peek AreteVS 4c
46Keep AreteVS 4b **
47Scoop Face IndirectVS 4c **
48Scoop DirectHVS 5a *
49Scoop FaceHVS 5a ***
50Scoop Face DirectHVS 5b *
51Scoop WallE1 5b *
52Footstool LeftS 4a
53Piano StoolHVS 5a
54Footstool RightHVD 4a *
55LaybackHVD
56Combs ClimbS 4a *
57StaircaseHVD
 THE CRACK AREA 
59The Two-stepVD
60Fat Man's ChimneyM
61Come On EileenE2 5c
62PlanktonE3 5c
63Assorted PondlifeHVS 5a
64Deep CrackVD
65Deep ChimneyVD
66Unbirthday climbE1 5b
67Birthday ClimbHVS 5b *
68The CrackVS 4b ***
69NozagVS 4c ***
70Zigzag CrackHS 4b **
71Zig-a-Zag-aD *
72Long ClimbVD
 CENTRAL TOWER 
74Central TowerVD *
75AtropineVS 4b **
76The Ugly BlokeE3 6a
77PrimadonnaE4 6a
78BelladonnaE1 5c *
79Green CrackS 4a *
80The BlusherVS 4b
81Morocc'n RollE1 5c
82Syringe BenefitE1 5c
83Columbal ConvenienceS
84Peg CrackE2 6a
85Iron Age FortitudeE4 6b **
86Keith George: The MovieE1 5b *
87Stoke The EnginesE1 5b *
 SOUTH BUTTRESS 
89Hodgkinson's ChimneyM
90South CrackD
91South ButtressD
92V-ChimneyD *
93Southern AreteHS 4b
94Bubbly WallHVS 5a
95Vanishing CrackHS 4b *
96The ViceD
97StruggleHS 4b
98BoomerangM
99Boomerang ButtressVS 4b
100Overhanging ChimneyHVD
101KoalaM
102The FaceV0 5a
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
WARNING: As of the 13.05.12 the “hidden” flake was loosened by a climber, and the flake was deemed to be unsafe and the flake was subsequently removed. There may still be some loose rock, so be aware.
peat - 14/May/12
Super venue.
BennoC - 12/Jun/09
Come on all you sexigenarians or whatever the term is for a 6 decade piss artist. Last night I sampled the sublime delights of Timothy Taylor's Landlord at the Beehive. Oh yeah, nearly forgot - the climbing was pretty good too!
Colin Ardron - 02/Sep/05
I shouldn't really say this, but I think Castle Naze is a little unknown gem. Granted it's not an enormous crag, but it does have a lot going for it. It's generally pretty quiet with only a few people ever climbing there, and you might even find yourselves the only ones. That kind of solitude is pretty rare these days in the Peak. It also has, one could arguably say one of the best views in the Peak District and its pretty stunning on a nice sunny mid week evening. Even if the climbing isn't extensive, it does have (for me) some classic climbs. A note, it is pretty loose up top, so a helmet is definitely advisable. Finally, there is also a great pub down the hill in Combs called the Beehive which is a nice finish to an evening.
Stuart Barker - 10/Jan/03
The parking is very limited (3 cars) and the road single track. However, the walk from the ample parking at Chapel railway station, is pleasant and takes about 25 mins. Cross the track and take the RH path.
Paul J - 18/Jun/02
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 02/Dec/2012
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