Climbs 53
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 450m a.s.l
Faces S

Not This Time . . . © R Potter

Crag features

A small, broken-up bouldering edge that is also the highest edge in Staffordshire. Occasional traffic but worth a visit on a quiet day or a spare few hours. Home to some great highball easy problems and harder problems such as 'The Fin', 'The Quantum Leap', 'Project Quantum' and 'This is my church'.

Approach notes

Walk up footpath just after 'The New Inn' past a house on your right, down a muddy farm track all the way up to the crag. Beware of the big bull!


Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
What a wonderful place. A magic day in early Dec. To chip in on the 'two guides' situation - I had the Peak District Bouldering guide (I think that therefore makes a three guide book situation?!) and also the BMC 2009 guide for comparison. I did circa 35 problems up to font 5+/6a. In a nutshell, the BMC guide seemed to be rather over-graded on many of the probs. I can barely climb much beyond uk tech grade 5b, yet according to the BMC guide I had managed a few 5c's, a couple of 6a's and even a 6b. I reckon I prob did manage a couple of things that were maybe 5c (yay!), but I very much doubt I did anything worth 6a or more.
Dr Matt - 04/Dec/14
As pointed out by Whealiebob, there's a naming / grading discrepancy between the BMC 2004 (and 2009) guide and High Over Buxton (2003). By some quirk of synchronicity, the crag was developed and written up by both sets of guide authors completely independently (a situation that wasn't addressed in the recent BMC updated guide). Ideally an attempt should be made to reconcile the two...hopefully I'll get around to it soon...
bullybones - 28/Apr/10
Nice location and good, rough Gritstone. Its also in High Over Buxton, but with entirely different problem names (and grades!!)
Whealiebob - 28/Sep/09
Thats This is my Church V5/6. On the other photograph- you can see Quantum Buttress in the distance, just past the fence, with Project Quantum up the arete in view.
teapot - 24/Jan/09
hughdyno9/04 whats this?
jim - 04/Aug/06
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Warren 
2Left AreteV0 17
3Side-wallV2 12
4CrackV1 13
5Lairf6A+ *10
6Fine SlabV1 *26
7Fine Slab AreteV0 19
8Rock Fusionf6B **17
9Warren PieceV0 13
10Hairy Hat ManV3 **8
 Right of the Wall and Fence 
12Claustrophobic Aretef6A+ *8
13Horseshoe AreteV1 *23
14Swiss Cheesedf6A+ 1
15Quantum Leapf7B **3
16Project Quantumf7A+ **7
 Triangular Boulder 
18Problem 13: Peak Bouldering 2011f6A+ 4
19Problem 14: Peak Bouldering 2011f5+ 8
20Problem 15: Peak Bouldering 2011f6A 4
 Fin Area 
22Vinyl GrooveV0 5
23Problem 34V0 3
24Sheep's ClothingV0- 5
25Problem 32V1 6
26This is My Churchf6C+ ***24
27The Finf4+ ***24
28The Fin RightV2 2
29Ear Flakef4 *40
30GastonitusV4 1
31Short Aretef6A 38
32Crumble Leftf5+ 19
33Crumblef6B 19
34Crumble Rightf4+ 25
35Wolf Prowf5 *26
36Underground Mantelf4 28
37Deep JamV0- 9
38Underground LeftV2 1
39The Undergroundf6B+ **21
40Overground Rightf6A *19
41The Farmers WifeV0 7
42The Kind FarmerV2 15
43Low TraverseV1 11
 Wolf Block 
45Wolf Bitef6B+ **19
46Ramp Right Aretef6A *25
47Sausage Hoaxf4+ *30
48The Rampf3+ **36
49Ramp Face Rightf5+ *29
 The Quarry 
51Quarry CrackV0- 13
52Quarry FaceV1 12
53The Balance TrailV2 4
54Problem 6V0 8
55The Devil's ChimneyV0- 6
56Iron SlabV2 2
57Wizz / Quarry Arete Stand Up-ishV0 12

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer bullybones