Climbs 53
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 450m a.s.l
Faces S

Not This Time . . . © R Potter

Crag features

A small, broken-up bouldering edge that is also the highest edge in Staffordshire. Occasional traffic but worth a visit on a quiet day or a spare few hours. Home to some great highball easy problems and harder problems such as 'The Fin', 'The Quantum Leap', 'Project Quantum' and 'This is my church'.

Approach notes

Walk up footpath just after 'The New Inn' past a house on your right, down a muddy farm track all the way up to the crag. Beware of the big bull!

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
What a wonderful place. A magic day in early Dec. To chip in on the 'two guides' situation - I had the Peak District Bouldering guide (I think that therefore makes a three guide book situation?!) and also the BMC 2009 guide for comparison. I did circa 35 problems up to font 5+/6a. In a nutshell, the BMC guide seemed to be rather over-graded on many of the probs. I can barely climb much beyond uk tech grade 5b, yet according to the BMC guide I had managed a few 5c's, a couple of 6a's and even a 6b. I reckon I prob did manage a couple of things that were maybe 5c (yay!), but I very much doubt I did anything worth 6a or more.
Dr Matt - 04/Dec/14
As pointed out by Whealiebob, there's a naming / grading discrepancy between the BMC 2004 (and 2009) guide and High Over Buxton (2003). By some quirk of synchronicity, the crag was developed and written up by both sets of guide authors completely independently (a situation that wasn't addressed in the recent BMC updated guide). Ideally an attempt should be made to reconcile the two...hopefully I'll get around to it soon...
bullybones - 28/Apr/10
Nice location and good, rough Gritstone. Its also in High Over Buxton, but with entirely different problem names (and grades!!)
Whealiebob - 28/Sep/09
Thats This is my Church V5/6. On the other photograph- you can see Quantum Buttress in the distance, just past the fence, with Project Quantum up the arete in view.
teapot - 24/Jan/09
hughdyno9/04 whats this?
jim - 04/Aug/06
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Warren 
2Problem 52 TraverseV3 1
3Left AreteV0 20
4Side-wallV2 15
5CrackV1 14
6Lairf6A+ *11
7Fine SlabV1 *29
8Fine Slab AreteV0 21
9Rock Fusionf6B **19
10Warren PieceV0 13
11Hairy Hat ManV3 **8
 Right of the Wall and Fence 
13Claustrophobic Aretef6A+ *9
14Horseshoe AreteV1 *25
15Swiss Cheesedf6A+ 2
16Quantum Leapf7B **3
17Project Quantumf7A+ **7
 Triangular Boulder 
19Problem 13: Peak Bouldering 2011f6A+ 6
20Problem 14: Peak Bouldering 2011f5+ 10
21Problem 15: Peak Bouldering 2011f6A 5
 Fin Area 
23Vinyl GrooveV0 5
24Problem 34V0 3
25Sheep's ClothingV0- 5
26Problem 32V1 7
27This is My Churchf6C+ ***21
28The Finf4+ ***26
29The Fin RightV2 2
30Ear Flakef4 *43
31GastonitusV4 1
32Short Aretef6A 41
33Crumble Leftf5+ 20
34Crumblef6B 21
35Crumble Rightf4+ 27
36Wolf Prowf5 *27
37Underground Mantelf4 30
38Deep JamV0- 9
39Underground LeftV2 1
40The Undergroundf6B+ **22
41Overground Rightf6A *19
42The Farmers WifeV0 7
43The Kind FarmerV2 17
44Low TraverseV1 12
 Wolf Block 
46Wolf Bitef6B+ **19
47Ramp Right Aretef6A *28
48Sausage Hoaxf4+ *34
49The Rampf3+ **39
50Ramp Face Rightf5+ *31
 The Quarry 
52Quarry CrackV0- 13
53Quarry FaceV1 12
54The Balance TrailV2 4
55Problem 6V0 8
56The Devil's ChimneyV0- 6
57Iron SlabV2 2
58Wizz / Quarry Arete Stand Up-ishV0 12

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer bullybones