UKC

Climbs 60
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 475m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Not This Time . . . © R Potter

Crag features

Wolf Edge is an isolated spot that is of exclusive interest to boulderers. It's unlikely you will ever find crowds of people here, so it's particularly worth a visit if crowds are likely at the more well known nearby venues. The quality of the rock is improving with traffic, but could need a gentle brushing in places.

The edge faces southeast getting plenty of morning and early afternoon sun. It is exposed to the elements and will dry quickly but offers little shelter. It doesn't suffer from green rock.

Approach notes

The crag is best approached from the small village of Flash (highest village in England at 461m). This is situated just west of the A53 and north of the other Staffordshire crags. Park in the village and walk a short distance west where a road leads steeply up to some houses. Follow this road, staying to the left, and pass through a gate to a track. Follow the track past fields, avoiding the right-hand fork, and you will soon see the edge. The areas right of the track are gained by following a vague path along the base. Areas left of the track (The Warren) need to be approached from above, so keep on the main track until level with the edge, then follow a path along the top of the edge until it is possible to descend.

No Access Issues

Although on CRoW land the approach is not.

Predominantly bouldering with holds that are still 'cleaning-up'.

What a wonderful place. A magic day in early Dec. To chip in on the 'two guides' situation - I had the Peak District Bouldering guide (I think that therefore makes a three guide book situation?!) and also the BMC 2009 guide for comparison. I did circa 35 problems up to font 5+/6a. In a nutshell, the BMC guide seemed to be rather over-graded on many of the probs. I can barely climb much beyond uk tech grade 5b, yet according to the BMC guide I had managed a few 5c's, a couple of 6a's and even a 6b. I reckon I prob did manage a couple of things that were maybe 5c (yay!), but I very much doubt I did anything worth 6a or more.
Dr Matt - 04/Dec/14
As pointed out by Whealiebob, there's a naming / grading discrepancy between the BMC 2004 (and 2009) guide and High Over Buxton (2003). By some quirk of synchronicity, the crag was developed and written up by both sets of guide authors completely independently (a situation that wasn't addressed in the recent BMC updated guide). Ideally an attempt should be made to reconcile the two...hopefully I'll get around to it soon...
John H Bull - 28/Apr/10
Nice location and good, rough Gritstone. Its also in High Over Buxton, but with entirely different problem names (and grades!!)
Whealiebob - 28/Sep/09
Thats This is my Church V5/6. On the other photograph- you can see Quantum Buttress in the distance, just past the fence, with Project Quantum up the arete in view.
teapot - 24/Jan/09
hughdyno9/04 whats this?
jim - 04/Aug/06
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