Climbs 135
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 101m a.s.l
Faces S

Pleasley Vale, the perfect training venue! © sfletch

Crag features

Sheltered by trees therefore shaded in summer, and can be warmer in winter.

Approach notes

Drive into Mansfield and follow signs for Mansfield Woodhouse. After a narrow bridge go left (Station Rd). Turn left into Vale Road (not well signposted). Straight on under the bridge, continue until you see a row of stone houses and then branch off to the right (signposted St. Chad's church) continue until the end of the road where you will find the church and a muddy area (in front of a gate) where you can park cars. Go over the bridge, go right following the boundary of the garden through the gate, continue on the footpath for a minute or two and through the trees you will see the first crag on the left hand side (with easier climbs) and then a minute or two later another (bigger) crag.

Strictly speaking this crag's in Derbyshire- the River Meden, crossed on the approach, is the county boundary.
cheque - 07/Jul/15
I wrote the guide to Pleasley Vale and had the topo's drawn which I still have, if any one is interested.
David Dicks - 26/Dec/14
Can anyone share a route/topo guide for Pleasley Vale? I've tried to get a old copy of peak climbs off fleaBay but no joy so far.
Knot-Paul - 18/Jun/13
For anyone who is interested? A Video including Frogger 7b+ish. A fairly obvious eliminate slap on Frog Buttress and The Pinch Super Direct 7c. Can be found here https://vimeo.com/62161252
Dolph - 19/Mar/13
Just come across this site.I think that J.Bradley ,P.Baker and I were probably the first to produce a guide to climbs at Pleasley Vale in summer 1948.We had to remove (perhaps illegally) lots of ivy.Our guide has 20 named climbs in it.
Eric Richardson - 13/Feb/13
the path that leads to the crag. is up for closure as been climbing there today. we need to phone the number on the post were the concrete arched block is.far end.we must keep the path open.no more climbing what a shame that would be. robert oakton.
robert oakton - 11/Jul/12
The boulder problems don't seem to be listed here, but you can find a guide with pictures here: http://issuu.com/niallgrimes/docs/boulder_britain_issuu/search?q=pleasely+vale
chriskourpas - 26/May/12
Pleasant location and worthwhile for some undisturbed soloing and bouldering. Some of the rock feels pretty polished - probably more by nature than by human as this ain't a place that sees much traffic. Some of the blocks feel pretty wobbly, especially on Sewer Turn!
samuel_w - 04/Apr/11
Glad to see DerwentDiluted has sorted out the order of the climbs and the new ones, great work!
Rhythm24 - 10/Dec/09
underated! great for training, unlimited variations of routes at all grades.
BJQ - 29/Nov/07
But dont quote me on that.
Pep'sBro - 05/Aug/06
I think the stone is Magnesium Rich limestone.
Pep'sBro - 05/Aug/06
I remember climbing there in the late '60's - amazed to see it has become so famous!
Howard Cobb - 26/Jul/06
If 'Pleasley Vale Activity Centre' have the barriers down just say your going there if its open, or say your going to/picking someone up from the crag these both normally work.
Eddie1234 - 20/Jul/06
This is not a crag to travel to from any great distance as its not worth it. However if you live close to Mansfield its worth an evening. There is an overhang area, the rock under which can be used for traversing and training and one or two easier climbs for beginners.The rock is quite unusual and I think is known locally as Mansfield Stone ( Southwell Minster is made out of it). There is quite a good and strenuous VS in the middle of the crag, but the rock is slightly suspect so its quite a necky lead at the grade. Worth a visit with a couple of beginners which is what I have used the crag for on a summers afternoon. But Birchens is only 25 minutes away from Pleasley Vale. You may have to access the crag from the Mansfield Woodhouse end of the vale as the security guy at Pleasly Vale Mills may not let you through as the road is private.
Marcus Tierney - 13/Jan/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Girdle Traverse 
2Girdle Traversenone 1
 Frog Buttress 
4Cub Climb
-
M 34
5Scout Crack
-
S 4a 22
6Scout Wall
-
E2 6a **1
7Fear Of Flying
-
HVS 5c 5
8V.T.O
-
HVS 5c 5
9V.T.O StartV1 35
10Frog Pop, Frog Buttress.f6A *1
11Froggerf7B 3
12Grounded
-
E2 6a 10
13Grounded StartV2 *42
14Scrambled
-
E1 5c **10
15Scrambled StartV2 37
16Ceiling Zero
-
E3 6a **4
17Ceiling Zero StartV3 *28
18Ceiling Zero Direct / Ground Zerof5+ 10
19D.T.s
-
E2 5c 1
20The FlueE1 5c 10
21Frog Buttress TraverseV1 35
22Sewer TurnVS 4c **45
23Down the Pan
-
S 4a 8
24Frog's Back Direct
-
VD 19
25Frog's Back
-
D 13
26Frog
-
HD 16
27Croaked
-
VS 4c 9
28Toad Wall
-
HVD 23
29ToadpoleHS 4a 12
30Make It Snappy
-
VS 4c 19
31Crocodile CornerHVD **48
32Merlin's AreteVD 13
33Merlin's Crack
-
D 29
34Merlin's Wall
-
M *37
35Forever AmberHS 4b 16
36Amber BlockHS 4b 14
37Giant's Steps
-
VD 19
38Giant's Arete
-
HS 4b 9
39Peg WallHVD 7
40Root Route
-
M 16
41Flakey Pastry
-
none 007 4
42Black Wall
-
HVS 5a 3
43Panther
-
M 4
44Tiny's Tower
-
S 4a 2
45Apples and Pears
-
M 2
 Jungle Area 
47Tree Corner
-
VD 1
48Jungle Route
-
VD 1
49Bower Corner
-
HD 1
50Bower Crack
-
HD 1
51Green Groove
-
HD 2
52Green Corner
-
D 4
 White Wall 
54Hang AboutHS 5a 9
55Banana Crack
-
S 4a 8
56Pea-pod
-
HVD 6
57Bat Wall
-
HVS 5b **3
58The Belfry
-
VS 5a 6
59Monty
-
HD 9
60Python
-
S 4a 7
61White wallHS 4a 9
62Nick's Nick
-
S 4a 3
63Bobbin
-
HS 4a 1
64Ivy routeD 1
65Nettle CornerHD 2
 Avalanche Buttress 
67Avalanche CrackVD 1
68Avalanche WallVD  
 Giants Staircase Area 
70Giant's Staircase
-
M 6
71Willies Wall
-
HD 2
72Overhang WallHS 4a 2
73Ivanhoe Crack
-
HVD 7
74Santa's ChimneyVD 12
 The Turret 
76Flax WallVS 4c **13
77Turret Buttress OverhangHVS 5c **10
78Turret Buttress Overhang DirectE4 5c **6
79Buttress Wall
-
E2 5c 4
80Tensing StretchHVD 21
81Hunt's ChimneyVD 21
82HillaryTraverse
-
HD 8
83Thermal
-
VS 5a 4
84Flying Crack
-
VS 4c 7
85Flying Corner
-
VS 4b 4
86Fallen Angel
-
VS 4b 1
87FlutedVS 4c *5
88Funnel
-
HVD 4
89Sinter
-
HS 4b 2
90Filter Corner
-
E2 5c  
 Monks Wall 
92RasputinE2 5c *5
93Monk's Crack
-
VS 4c 3
94Abbot's CrackHVS 5a 3
95Monk's Wall
-
HVS 5a 2
96Dirty habbit wallHVS 4c/5a **1
97Dirty Habit CornerHVS 5b **10
98Nun's NastyVS 4c 4
99Nun's Crack
-
HVD 20
100Convent Wall
-
E1 5c 2
101Convent Arete
-
VS 5a  
102Monks Wall TraverseV2 62
103Crack Leftf4 19
104Flakef6A 25
105Pillar Crackf5 *19
106Crack Rightf4+ 21
107Seamf6A 26
108Yew MonkV8 1
 Yew Tree Wall 
110Yew Tree Traverse
-
f7A+ ***29
111Yew Two7b+ **9
112Problem 8f6A 16
113Holly Tree Wallf6A+ 19
114Statement of Yewff6B+ 17
115Yew Tree Wallf6C 24
116Yew Tree Corner (Start)f6C 26
117Yew Tree Corner
-
E1 5c **3
118Yew Tree Corner (Variation 2)f7B *11
119Prob 13 (Rockfax 09) Yew Tree WallV5 39
120The Pinchf7A 38
121The pinch eliminate - no pinchf7B *7
122The Pinch Superdirectf7C **1
123The Pinch Superdirect ExtensionV10  
124Left Side StoryV9  
125Prob 17 (Rockfax 09) Yew Tree WallV2 32
126P18 Up To Jug LedgeV3 *48
127Demented
-
HVS 5a 4
128Bulge (YTW)f6A+ *30
129Yew What?f6B+ 18
130Problem 19 PB 98f7A 22
131The Arete (Cringing Arete Start)V0 51
132Cringing Arete
-
VS 4c 9
133Right OnV3 3
 Green Wall 
135Cringing CrowsVS 4c 4
136Crow's Mantle
-
VS 4c 4
137Green WallS 5
138Snowdrop
-
M 5
139ToothlessS 2
140Rose ScoopVD 2
141Rose Arete
-
HS 4a 1
 Lower Tier 
143BlutoVD  
144Popeye's CrackHS 4b  
145Olive Oil's WallS  
146Sweet PeaS  

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