Pleasley Vale

Climbs 131 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 101m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features

Sheltered by trees therefore shaded in summer, and can be warmer in winter.

Approach notes

Drive into Mansfield and follow signs for Mansfield Woodhouse. After a narrow bridge go left (Station Rd). Turn left into Vale Road (not well signposted). Straight on under the bridge, continue until you see a row of stone houses and then branch off to the right (signposted St. Chad's church) continue until the end of the road where you will find the church and a muddy area (in front of a gate) where you can park cars. Go over the bridge, go right following the boundary of the garden through the gate, continue on the footpath for a minute or two and through the trees you will see the first crag on the left hand side (with easier climbs) and then a minute or two later another (bigger) crag.

Boulder Britain (2011), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Cub ClimbM 34
3Scout CrackS 4a 22
4Scout WallE2 6a **1
5Fear Of FlyingHVS 5c 5
6V.T.OHVS 5c 5
7V.T.O StartV1 35
8Froggerf7B 2
9GroundedE2 6a 10
10Grounded StartV2 5c *40
11ScrambledE1 5c **9
12Scrambled StartV2 5c 34
13Ceiling ZeroE3 6a **3
14Ceiling Zero StartV3 6a *26
15Ceiling Zero Direct / Ground Zerof5+ 9
16D.T.sE2 5c 1
17The FlueE1 5c 9
18Frog Buttress TraverseV1 5b 33
19Sewer TurnVS 4c **41
20Down the PanS 4a 8
21Frog's Back DirectVD 17
22Frog's BackD 13
23FrogHD 16
24CroakedVS 4c 8
25Toad WallHVD 22
26ToadpoleHS 4a 12
27Make It SnappyVS 4c 18
28Crocodile CornerHVD **43
29Merlin's AreteVD 13
30Merlin's CrackD 29
31Merlin's WallM *37
32Forever AmberHS 4b 16
33Amber BlockHS 4b 14
34Giant's StepsVD 19
35Giant's AreteHS 4b 9
36Peg WallHVD 7
37Root RouteM 16
38Flakey Pastrynone 007 4
39Black WallHVS 5a 3
40PantherM 4
41Tiny's TowerS 4a 2
42Apples and PearsM 2
44Tree CornerVD 1
45Jungle RouteVD 1
46Bower CornerHD 1
47Bower CrackHD 1
48Green GrooveHD 2
49Green CornerD 4
51Hang AboutHS 5a 9
52Banana CrackS 4a 8
53Pea-podHVD 6
54Bat WallHVS 5b **3
55The BelfryVS 5a 5
56MontyHD 8
57PythonS 4a 7
58White wallHS 4a 9
59Nick's NickS 4a 3
60BobbinHS 4a 1
61Ivy routeD 1
62Nettle CornerHD 2
64Avalanche CrackVD 1
65Avalanche WallVD  
67Giant's StaircaseM 6
68Willies WallHD 2
69Overhang WallHS 4a 2
70Ivanhoe CrackHVD 7
71Santa's ChimneyVD 12
73Flax WallVS 4c **12
74Turret Buttress OverhangHVS 5c **9
75Turret Buttress Overhang DirectE4 5c **6
76Buttress WallE2 5c 3
77Tensing StretchHVD 20
78Hunt's ChimneyVD 20
79HillaryTraverseHD 7
80ThermalVS 5a 4
81Flying CrackVS 4c 7
82Flying CornerVS 4b 4
83Fallen AngelVS 4b 1
84FlutedVS 4c *5
85FunnelHVD 4
86SinterHS 4b 2
87Filter CornerE2 5c  
89RasputinE2 5c *4
90Monk's CrackVS 4c 3
91Abbot's CrackHVS 5a 3
92Monk's WallHVS 5a 2
93Dirty habbit wallHVS 4c/5a **1
94Dirty Habit CornerHVS 5b **10
95Nun's NastyVS 4c 4
96Nun's CrackHVD 18
97Convent WallE1 5c 2
98Convent AreteVS 5a  
99Monks Wall TraverseV2 59
100Crack Leftf4 15
101Flakef6A 20
102Pillar Crackf5 *15
103Crack Rightf4+ 16
104Seamf6A 21
106Yew Tree Traversef7A+ ***29
107Yew Two7b+ **9
108Problem 8f6A 15
109Holly Tree Wallf6A+ 15
110Statement of Yewff6B+ 15
111Yew Tree Wallf6C 21
112Yew Tree Corner (Start)f6C 19
113Yew Tree CornerE1 5c **3
114Yew Tree Corner (Variation 2)f7B *11
115Prob 13 (Rockfax 09) Yew Tree WallV5 32
116The Pinchf7A 33
117The Pinch Superdirectf7C ** 
118Prob 17 (Rockfax 09) Yew Tree WallV2 29
119P18 Up To Jug LedgeV3 *43
120DementedHVS 5a 4
121Bulge (YTW)f6A+ *25
122Yew What?f6B+ 13
123Problem 19 PB 98f7A 14
124The Arete (Cringing Arete Start)V0 49
125Cringing AreteVS 4c 9
127Cringing CrowsVS 4c 4
128Crow's MantleVS 4c 4
129Green WallS 5
130SnowdropM 5
131ToothlessS 2
132Rose ScoopVD 2
133Rose AreteHS 4a 1
136Popeye's CrackHS 4b  
137Olive Oil's WallS  
138Sweet PeaS  
139Girdle Traversenone 1
140Right OnV3 6a 2
141The pinch eliminate - no pinchf7B *1
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer DerwentDiluted

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Strictly speaking this crag's in Derbyshire- the River Meden, crossed on the approach, is the county boundary.
cheque - 07/Jul/15
I wrote the guide to Pleasley Vale and had the topo's drawn which I still have, if any one is interested.
David Dicks - 26/Dec/14
Can anyone share a route/topo guide for Pleasley Vale? I've tried to get a old copy of peak climbs off fleaBay but no joy so far.
Knot-Paul - 18/Jun/13
For anyone who is interested? A Video including Frogger 7b+ish. A fairly obvious eliminate slap on Frog Buttress and The Pinch Super Direct 7c. Can be found here
Dolph - 19/Mar/13
Just come across this site.I think that J.Bradley ,P.Baker and I were probably the first to produce a guide to climbs at Pleasley Vale in summer 1948.We had to remove (perhaps illegally) lots of ivy.Our guide has 20 named climbs in it.
Eric Richardson - 13/Feb/13
the path that leads to the crag. is up for closure as been climbing there today. we need to phone the number on the post were the concrete arched block is.far end.we must keep the path more climbing what a shame that would be. robert oakton.
robert oakton - 11/Jul/12
The boulder problems don't seem to be listed here, but you can find a guide with pictures here:
chriskourpas - 26/May/12
Pleasant location and worthwhile for some undisturbed soloing and bouldering. Some of the rock feels pretty polished - probably more by nature than by human as this ain't a place that sees much traffic. Some of the blocks feel pretty wobbly, especially on Sewer Turn!
samuel_w - 04/Apr/11
Glad to see DerwentDiluted has sorted out the order of the climbs and the new ones, great work!
Rhythm24 - 10/Dec/09
underated! great for training, unlimited variations of routes at all grades.
BJQ - 29/Nov/07
But dont quote me on that.
Pep'sBro - 05/Aug/06
I think the stone is Magnesium Rich limestone.
Pep'sBro - 05/Aug/06
I remember climbing there in the late '60's - amazed to see it has become so famous!
Howard Cobb - 26/Jul/06
If 'Pleasley Vale Activity Centre' have the barriers down just say your going there if its open, or say your going to/picking someone up from the crag these both normally work.
Eddie1234 - 20/Jul/06
This is not a crag to travel to from any great distance as its not worth it. However if you live close to Mansfield its worth an evening. There is an overhang area, the rock under which can be used for traversing and training and one or two easier climbs for beginners.The rock is quite unusual and I think is known locally as Mansfield Stone ( Southwell Minster is made out of it). There is quite a good and strenuous VS in the middle of the crag, but the rock is slightly suspect so its quite a necky lead at the grade. Worth a visit with a couple of beginners which is what I have used the crag for on a summers afternoon. But Birchens is only 25 minutes away from Pleasley Vale. You may have to access the crag from the Mansfield Woodhouse end of the vale as the security guy at Pleasly Vale Mills may not let you through as the road is private.
Marcus Tierney - 13/Jan/06