Climbs 134
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 101m a.s.l
Faces S

Pleasley Vale, the perfect training venue! © sfletch

Crag features

Sheltered by trees therefore shaded in summer, and can be warmer in winter.

Approach notes

Drive into Mansfield and follow signs for Mansfield Woodhouse. After a narrow bridge go left (Station Rd). Turn left into Vale Road (not well signposted). Straight on under the bridge, continue until you see a row of stone houses and then branch off to the right (signposted St. Chad's church) continue until the end of the road where you will find the church and a muddy area (in front of a gate) where you can park cars. Go over the bridge, go right following the boundary of the garden through the gate, continue on the footpath for a minute or two and through the trees you will see the first crag on the left hand side (with easier climbs) and then a minute or two later another (bigger) crag.

Strictly speaking this crag's in Derbyshire- the River Meden, crossed on the approach, is the county boundary.
cheque - 07/Jul/15
I wrote the guide to Pleasley Vale and had the topo's drawn which I still have, if any one is interested.
David Dicks - 26/Dec/14
Can anyone share a route/topo guide for Pleasley Vale? I've tried to get a old copy of peak climbs off fleaBay but no joy so far.
Knot-Paul - 18/Jun/13
For anyone who is interested? A Video including Frogger 7b+ish. A fairly obvious eliminate slap on Frog Buttress and The Pinch Super Direct 7c. Can be found here https://vimeo.com/62161252
Dolph - 19/Mar/13
Just come across this site.I think that J.Bradley ,P.Baker and I were probably the first to produce a guide to climbs at Pleasley Vale in summer 1948.We had to remove (perhaps illegally) lots of ivy.Our guide has 20 named climbs in it.
Eric Richardson - 13/Feb/13
the path that leads to the crag. is up for closure as been climbing there today. we need to phone the number on the post were the concrete arched block is.far end.we must keep the path open.no more climbing what a shame that would be. robert oakton.
robert oakton - 11/Jul/12
The boulder problems don't seem to be listed here, but you can find a guide with pictures here: http://issuu.com/niallgrimes/docs/boulder_britain_issuu/search?q=pleasely+vale
chriskourpas - 26/May/12
Pleasant location and worthwhile for some undisturbed soloing and bouldering. Some of the rock feels pretty polished - probably more by nature than by human as this ain't a place that sees much traffic. Some of the blocks feel pretty wobbly, especially on Sewer Turn!
samuel_w - 04/Apr/11
Glad to see DerwentDiluted has sorted out the order of the climbs and the new ones, great work!
Rhythm24 - 10/Dec/09
underated! great for training, unlimited variations of routes at all grades.
BJQ - 29/Nov/07
But dont quote me on that.
Pep'sBro - 05/Aug/06
I think the stone is Magnesium Rich limestone.
Pep'sBro - 05/Aug/06
I remember climbing there in the late '60's - amazed to see it has become so famous!
Howard Cobb - 26/Jul/06
If 'Pleasley Vale Activity Centre' have the barriers down just say your going there if its open, or say your going to/picking someone up from the crag these both normally work.
Eddie1234 - 20/Jul/06
This is not a crag to travel to from any great distance as its not worth it. However if you live close to Mansfield its worth an evening. There is an overhang area, the rock under which can be used for traversing and training and one or two easier climbs for beginners.The rock is quite unusual and I think is known locally as Mansfield Stone ( Southwell Minster is made out of it). There is quite a good and strenuous VS in the middle of the crag, but the rock is slightly suspect so its quite a necky lead at the grade. Worth a visit with a couple of beginners which is what I have used the crag for on a summers afternoon. But Birchens is only 25 minutes away from Pleasley Vale. You may have to access the crag from the Mansfield Woodhouse end of the vale as the security guy at Pleasly Vale Mills may not let you through as the road is private.
Marcus Tierney - 13/Jan/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Frog Buttress 
2Cub Climb
-
M 34
3Scout Crack
-
S 4a 22
4Scout Wall
-
E2 6a **1
5Fear Of Flying
-
HVS 5c 5
6V.T.O
-
HVS 5c 5
7V.T.O StartV1 35
8Froggerf7B 2
9Grounded
-
E2 6a 10
10Grounded StartV2 *40
11Scrambled
-
E1 5c **10
12Scrambled StartV2 35
13Ceiling Zero
-
E3 6a **3
14Ceiling Zero StartV3 *27
15Ceiling Zero Direct / Ground Zerof5+ 9
16D.T.s
-
E2 5c 1
17The FlueE1 5c 10
18Frog Buttress TraverseV1 33
19Sewer TurnVS 4c **42
20Down the Pan
-
S 4a 8
21Frog's Back Direct
-
VD 17
22Frog's Back
-
D 13
23Frog
-
HD 16
24Croaked
-
VS 4c 8
25Toad Wall
-
HVD 23
26ToadpoleHS 4a 12
27Make It Snappy
-
VS 4c 18
28Crocodile CornerHVD **43
29Merlin's AreteVD 13
30Merlin's Crack
-
D 29
31Merlin's Wall
-
M *37
32Forever AmberHS 4b 16
33Amber BlockHS 4b 14
34Giant's Steps
-
VD 19
35Giant's Arete
-
HS 4b 9
36Peg WallHVD 7
37Root Route
-
M 16
38Flakey Pastry
-
none 007 4
39Black Wall
-
HVS 5a 3
40Panther
-
M 4
41Tiny's Tower
-
S 4a 2
42Apples and Pears
-
M 2
 Jungle Area 
44Tree Corner
-
VD 1
45Jungle Route
-
VD 1
46Bower Corner
-
HD 1
47Bower Crack
-
HD 1
48Green Groove
-
HD 2
49Green Corner
-
D 4
 White Wall 
51Hang AboutHS 5a 9
52Banana Crack
-
S 4a 8
53Pea-pod
-
HVD 6
54Bat Wall
-
HVS 5b **3
55The Belfry
-
VS 5a 6
56Monty
-
HD 9
57Python
-
S 4a 7
58White wallHS 4a 9
59Nick's Nick
-
S 4a 3
60Bobbin
-
HS 4a 1
61Ivy routeD 1
62Nettle CornerHD 2
 Avalanche Buttress 
64Avalanche CrackVD 1
65Avalanche WallVD  
 Giants Staircase Area 
67Giant's Staircase
-
M 6
68Willies Wall
-
HD 2
69Overhang WallHS 4a 2
70Ivanhoe Crack
-
HVD 7
71Santa's ChimneyVD 12
 The Turret 
73Flax WallVS 4c **12
74Turret Buttress OverhangHVS 5c **10
75Turret Buttress Overhang DirectE4 5c **6
76Buttress Wall
-
E2 5c 4
77Tensing StretchHVD 21
78Hunt's ChimneyVD 21
79HillaryTraverse
-
HD 8
80Thermal
-
VS 5a 4
81Flying Crack
-
VS 4c 7
82Flying Corner
-
VS 4b 4
83Fallen Angel
-
VS 4b 1
84FlutedVS 4c *5
85Funnel
-
HVD 4
86Sinter
-
HS 4b 2
87Filter Corner
-
E2 5c  
 Monks Wall 
89RasputinE2 5c *5
90Monk's Crack
-
VS 4c 3
91Abbot's CrackHVS 5a 3
92Monk's Wall
-
HVS 5a 2
93Dirty habbit wallHVS 4c/5a **1
94Dirty Habit CornerHVS 5b **10
95Nun's NastyVS 4c 4
96Nun's Crack
-
HVD 19
97Convent Wall
-
E1 5c 2
98Convent Arete
-
VS 5a  
99Monks Wall TraverseV2 60
100Crack Leftf4 15
101Flakef6A 20
102Pillar Crackf5 *15
103Crack Rightf4+ 16
104Seamf6A 21
 Yew Tree Wall 
106Yew Tree Traverse
-
f7A+ ***29
107Yew Two7b+ **9
108Problem 8f6A 16
109Holly Tree Wallf6A+ 16
110Statement of Yewff6B+ 15
111Yew Tree Wallf6C 21
112Yew Tree Corner (Start)f6C 20
113Yew Tree Corner
-
E1 5c **3
114Yew Tree Corner (Variation 2)f7B *11
115Prob 13 (Rockfax 09) Yew Tree WallV5 33
116The Pinchf7A 34
117The Pinch Superdirectf7C **1
118Prob 17 (Rockfax 09) Yew Tree WallV2 30
119P18 Up To Jug LedgeV3 *46
120Demented
-
HVS 5a 4
121Bulge (YTW)f6A+ *27
122Yew What?f6B+ 16
123Problem 19 PB 98f7A 18
124The Arete (Cringing Arete Start)V0 49
125Cringing Arete
-
VS 4c 9
 Green Wall 
127Cringing CrowsVS 4c 4
128Crow's Mantle
-
VS 4c 4
129Green WallS 5
130Snowdrop
-
M 5
131ToothlessS 2
132Rose ScoopVD 2
133Rose Arete
-
HS 4a 1
 Lower Tier 
135BlutoVD  
136Popeye's CrackHS 4b  
137Olive Oil's WallS  
138Sweet PeaS  
139Girdle Traversenone 1
140Right OnV3 2
141The pinch eliminate - no pinchf7B *1
142Yew Monk *V8 1
143The Pinch Superdirect Extension *V10  
144Left Side Story *V9  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer DerwentDiluted