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These details were last updated on 10/Aug/2010

Stoney Middleton

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 294 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A series of impressive buttress up to 50m high offering almost exclusively traditional routes at mainly VS and above on good rock. One of the original forcing grounds of hard limestone climbing, now sadly neglected, and therefore seldom busy. Many superb climbs, although some classics are polished. Sheltered and quick drying. Too many superb routes to choose from, but of National worth are the multi-pitch traverse of Alcasan (E2) and Our Father (E4 6b,5a). Home of some of the hardest and most polished bouldering in the Peak.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales – Met Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), Peak District: Bouldering (2004), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), Peak Limestone - Stoney (1987),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 ELECTRIC QUARRY  
2RoraimaHVS 5b 3
3Easy ActionE1 5b *23
4The Disillusioned Brew MachineE3 5c 1
5AcrophobiaHVS 5a *10
6J ArthurE1 5b *4
7The SlurperE1 5c *27
8Helmut SchmittE6 6b **5
9Cabbage CrackE4 6a **57
10JasperE3 6a **61
11The HeatE5 6a 1
12OliverE4 6a ***39
13Millionaire TouchE4 6b **24
14IcarusE1 5b 2
15Brown CornerHVS 5a 39
16One 'ard MoveE6 6b  
17DamoclesE3 5b *9
18Golden BoyE5 6b *1
19Emotional RescueE5 6a *4
20John PeelE2 5b *28
21GollyberryE2 5c 8
22Lard WallE5 6a 1
23PsychopathE1 5b 2
24DaedalusE4 6a  
25VickyE1 5b  
 TRIGLYPH/MORTUARY BUTTRESS  
27Drainpipe GrooveVS 4c *11
28Speed KillsE4 6a *4
29The MorgueE3 5c *11
30Mortuary StepsHVS 5b **65
31Hart AttackE5 6b  
32Cardiac ArrestE4 6a *4
33Little CapucinHVS 5a 23
34How the HellVS 4c *34
35What the HellVS 4b *71
36Hell Hath No FuryE2 5b  
37Morning CrackS *44
38Hellish morningVS 4b ** 
 IVY BUTTRESS  
40NazeVD 6
41Child's AreteHVS 5a 1
42EmanonHS 4
 TOM'S ROOF  
44Tom's Originalf7A *116
45The Wombf6C *12
46Power Allowancef7B **18
47Swing Thingf7B+ *16
48Quintesscencef8A * 
49Pete's Power Pullf7C+ **2
50Power tripf7C 1
51You've Pulledf8A 1
52Rack and Ruinf7C 1
53Jerryatricksf7C+ * 
54Jerry's Problemf7C+  
55Figure of 8f7B+ *8
56Let's go round again (fig 8 reverse)f7C 2
57Figure of 16f7C 3
58Punker Bunkerf7B ***33
 PRAYER WHEEL WALL  
60OmletteE3 6a 4
61OmE2 5b 135
62This........WallE2 5b 36
63ManiE1 5b *209
64PadmeHVS 5a *292
65Pology Wall †E1 3
 PEARLY GATES BUTTRESS  
67looking Through Gary Gibson's EyesHVS 5a 4
68AsparagusVS 4b 112
69RobinE2 5b 9
70Cock-a-leekie WallE2 5c 86
71Vinegar FlyVS 5a 2
72MinestroneHVS 5a 23
73Rosehip WineHS 4a 33
74Jungle AreteVD 6
75PollyannaE1 5b 9
76JuggernautVS 5a 8
77HorizonVD 14
78Lost HorizonVD 20
79Aux BicyclettesVD 11
80Fingal's FlueVS 4c 6
81Fingal's CaveVS 5a 1
82The GroperVS 4c,4b 2
83The White KnightVD 34
84BenE2 5c 3
85Gabriel and the Pearly GatesVS 4c **286
86SolitaireE1 5b 63
87St. PeterE1 5c *191
88St. PaulE3 5c 12
89ParachuteVS 4a *139
90Roman CandleVS 4c 2
91Au GratinHS 4a 27
92Didgery DoodahE1 5a  
 MINUS TEN WALL  
94Minus WallHVS 5b 11
95Minus TenHVS 5a *164
96Great EscapeE1 5b 2
97Jam SandwichE5 6b 4
98Traffic JamE5 6b **46
99Double ScotchE2 5b *190
100CointreauHVS 5a 68
101The Flashing FisherE3 5c 10
102Pygmies Walk TallHVS 5b *10
103ThrutchHVS 5a 16
104Quent's Dynof7B **28
105George's wall dynof7C 3
106The JABPf7C ** 
107One Arm Banditf7B *30
108Kirton Dynof7A+ *49
109Sean's Problemf7B+ *11
110Zippy's Sidepullf7B+ *20
111Lucian's Undercutf7A **48
112Zippy's Problemf7B+ **12
113Pinch 2f7C+ ***1
114Nasty Traversef7C+ *2
115The Double Doublef6C *62
116Young Americanf7A+ **53
117Megatronf7A+ *19
118Megatron Turbof7A+ 1
119The Upper Breakfont 5 *17
120The Middle Breakf6B *67
121The Wall Traversef6C+ *11
 CARL'S WALK  
123CostaBravaHVS 5b 3
124Carl's Wark Traversef7B *** 
125Little CrackVS 5a 7
126SqueekE5 6a  
127More Air than Chocolatef6A *5
128Flake and PillarE1 5b 24
129Au Revoir Monodoigtf7B  
130Bubbles Startf6B+ *8
131Bubbles WallE4 6b **68
132Bubbles OriginalE3 5c *2
133Black KabulE5 6b *4
134Carls Wark CrackE2 5c **126
135ScarabE6 6b ** 
136All Systems GoE6 6c  
137Green CrackVS 4c 57
138SoapsudsE3 6a *23
139Shaky CrackVD 6
140Soapsuds Traversef6B+ 7
 WEE DORIS BAY  
142HammerVS 4b 1
143WhetE2 5b 1
144SickleE1 5a *19
145Boat Pushers WallE3 5c *25
146Big BorisE5 6a 1
147Wee DorisE4 5c ***150
148MedusaE1 5b **125
149Gesemini originalE1 5b 6
150Gesemini DirectE3 6a *20
151PickpocketE4 6a *47
 BITTERFINGERS BAY  
153Frisco BayVS 4c *34
154Bay of PigsE1 5b 2
 Climb nameGradex
155Golden GateHVS 5a *73
156Bingo WallE2 5b *94
157Kelly's EyeE4 6a *23
158The year of living DangerouslyE4 5c 1
159Mind-blindE5 6b 1
160The Rainbow WomanE3 6a 1
161WallopHS 4b 15
162Flavour of the MonthE6 6b *1
163My Personal PleasureE6 6c 1
164BelindaE4 6a *1
165FrothVS 4c **238
166Mottled WallE4 5c 1
167Mingtled/Mottled WallE4 5c 5
168Dead Banana CrackE1 5c **246
169BitterfingersE4 6a ***100
170The Great LevellerE6 6b  
171OkraE4 6a *4
172Fe Fi Fo FumHVS 5a 177
173BeanstalkE3 5c 2
174AugeanVS 4c 39
175HerculesE4 5c * 
176ivy Grotto DirectHVS 5a 2
177Anything CornerVS 4b 5
178MineshaftD 20
179Shellfish ShuffleS 3
180TantalusHS 4b *6
 TOWER OF BABEL  
182Babylon BypassHVS 4b 2
183Glory RoadVS 4b *128
184SinVS 4c **162
185Lucy SimmonsE2 5b *66
186The Tower of BabelE1 5b 18
187RevulvaHVS 5b 1
 WINDY BUTTRESS  
189ChantrelleE1 5a 6
190Black TeddyE2 5c 4
191InquisitorE1 5c *70
192Dies IraeE2 5c **133
193Stuff the TurkeyE4 6b 3
194CirceE5 6b *26
195GasperaE5 6b *1
196Swine VesicularE6 6b  
197KinkE5 6b *9
198Kinky7c 1
199KelloggE5 6b **12
200Nice in NiceE5 6b *2
201Kingdom ComeE5 6b *8
202Special KE4 6a *9
203The Flakes DirectE2 5c **60
204The FlakesE2 5c ***38
205ArmageddonE2 5c **125
206WindhoverE2 5c **172
207TransmaiaconE5 6a 1
208ChossHVS 5b 15
209Scoop WallE2 5c ***226
210Our FatherE4 6b **70
211MenopauseE5 6b *8
212MemnonE2 5c *30
213Memnon VariationE3 5c 10
214Racial HarmonyE4 5c *1
215AuroraVS 4c *182
216HysterectomyE5 6c  
217Aurora ArêteHVS 4c,5a *3
218Aurora Arete/Tiger TrotHVS 5a **107
219Tiger TrotVD *19
220AlcasanE2 5c **71
 GARAGE BUTTRESS  
222Ticket to the UnderworldE4 4a,5c 1
223Compositae GrooveHVS 5a *39
224Trigger *7a+  
225Two Ton Ted from Teddington *6c 1
226Knockim' on the Bread Man's Door *6c+ * 
227Bohemian *6c * 
228Empty Cartridge *6c * 
229Unloaded *6c+ * 
230Reloaded *6c **3
231I Hate You7a+ *3
232Four Minute TilerE5 6b **2
233Alex It was Nothing ReallyE5 6b 1
234La Belle et la BeteE5 6b *3
235Colonel BogeyE4 6a **18
236HeliconE3 5c *36
237RippemoffE1 5c *51
238ChewemoffE4 6a *8
239GerremdownE3 4c,5b **3
240The Lover,s Leap7b+ *2
241Dig Deep For Victory7c 5
242Ozone Bozo7c *8
243The Big Apple8a *7
244Easy SkankingE6 6b,6a * 
245Little Plum8a ***6
246Little Plum (pitch 1)7c+ **5
247Big NoseE4 6a 1
248Ming the Merciless8a+ 1
249The King of Ming7b+ **26
250Virgin on the LooseE6 6b  
251FlycatcherE5 6a 1
252Lowlands6c+ 6
253Dreamcatcher6c *14
254Creamsnatcher6b 15
255EvasorVS 4c *86
256AtroposHVS 5a *1
257AquilineHVS 5b 14
258PendulumHVS 5a *48
 OTHER BOULDERING  
260Problem 4 (PDB P325)f7A+ *22
261Problem 7 p.138 Rockfax bouldering guide 1998V5 3
262Problem 11 (P.325 PDB)f6C+ 9
263Problem 11f6C+ 39
264Zippy's Problem Eliminate A1f7C *4
265Zippy's Problem Eliminate A2f7C+ **4
266Rockfax Problem 1(Minus Ten - Left)VB 13
267Rockfax Problem 2(Minus Ten - Left)V0 5a 12
268Rockfax Problem 3 (Minus Ten - Left)V0 5a 10
269Rockfax Problem 21(Minus Ten - Right)V1 5c 14
270Rockfax Problem 22 (Minus Ten - Right)V2 6a 16
271White Ladderf7B+ 5
272Rockfax Problem 4(Minus Ten - Left)V0 *10
273Rockfax Problem 5 (Minus Ten - Left)V3 6a *10
274Rockfax Problem 23 (Minus Ten - Right)V4 6b *9
275Rockfax Problem 1 (Minus Ten - Central)f6B 6
276Rockfax Problem 4 (Minus Ten - Central)font 5+ 7
277Rockfax Problem 13 (Minus Ten - Central)f6B+ 7
278Rockfax Problem 20 (Minus Ten - Central)f6A 6
279Rockfax Problem 8 (Minus Ten - Central) (Stoney Middleton)f6C+ 5
280Rockfax Problem 1 (George's Wall) (Stoney Middleton)f6B+ 5
281Odd Thingf7B 8
282Not Ned's Problemf7B+ 14
283Arete left handf6A *4
284Arete right handf6C+ *1
285Problem 6f7A 14
286Problem 13 (Left hand Side)f7A 5
287Slopey Sidepullf7A+ **10
288Triangular Pocketsf6B+ **6
 UNKNOWN/NOT IN GUIDE/INCORRECT, ENTRIES  
290Slopey Sidepull Variant *f7B *3
291Peak Bouldering Problem 11 *f6C+ *6
292Harris Problem 1 *f7B+ * 
293The Womb into Tom's Original *f7A **2
294Harris Problem *f7B+ *1
295Easy dyno *f6A 1
296White Ladder (sit start) *f7C 2
297PDB, Problem 4 *f7A+ **7
298RF, Problem 5 *f7A **1
299Pdb Probmem 7 *f7A+ 1
300Figure of 24 *f7C 1
301The groove (Georges wall) *f6A+ 3
302Rockfax problem 24 (minus 10 right) *f6C 4
303Tom's Original There and Back *f7A+ **4
304Tom's Original Reverse *f7A 5
305Problem 7 *f7A+ 3
306Triangle pocket (ukb guide problem 6) *f7A 1
307Problem 8 *f7A+ 1
308Pdb problem 1 central *f7B+ *1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
A true roadside crag! From a large layby on the A623 just between the village of Stoney Middleton and the crag cross the road (1 min).
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer kristian ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
If you looking for a great place to climb, classic problems with inspirational lines, good footholds and well maintained handholds, with great moves and a stunning atmosphere and surroundings. then DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT ever got to Stoney Middleston!...Ever!
Liam Copley ? - 11/Feb/09

I once bet Brian Cropper I could solo Minus Ten a hundred times in a day, we got to 35 and Brian got bored so he paid up on the bet :-)
Al Evans - 30/Jul/07