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Stoney Middleton Derbyshire, ENGLAND
Climbs 294 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces W
A series of impressive buttress up to 50m high offering almost exclusively traditional routes at mainly VS and above on good rock. One of the original forcing grounds of hard limestone climbing, now sadly neglected, and therefore seldom busy. Many superb climbs, although some classics are polished. Sheltered and quick drying. Too many superb routes to choose from, but of National worth are the multi-pitch traverse of Alcasan (E2) and Our Father (E4 6b,5a). Home of some of the hardest and most polished bouldering in the Peak.
Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), Peak District: Bouldering (2004), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), Peak Limestone - Stoney (1987),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)
Climbs at this crag
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
A true roadside crag! From a large layby on the A623 just between the village of Stoney Middleton and the crag cross the road (1 min).
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer kristian
If you looking for a great place to climb, classic problems with inspirational lines, good footholds and well maintained handholds, with great moves and a stunning atmosphere and surroundings. then DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT ever got to Stoney Middleston!...Ever!|
Liam Copley - 11/Feb/09
I once bet Brian Cropper I could solo Minus Ten a hundred times in a day, we got to 35 and Brian got bored so he paid up on the bet :-)
Al Evans - 30/Jul/07