Stoney Middleton

Climbs 343 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A series of impressive buttress up to 50m high offering almost exclusively traditional routes at mainly VS and above on good rock. One of the original forcing grounds of hard limestone climbing, now sadly neglected, and therefore seldom busy. Many superb climbs, although some classics are polished. Sheltered and quick drying. Too many superb routes to choose from, but of National worth are the multi-pitch traverse of Alcasan (E2) and Our Father (E4 6b,5a). Home of some of the hardest and most polished bouldering in the Peak.

Access notes
A true roadside crag! From a large layby on the A623 just between the village of Stoney Middleton and the crag cross the road (1 min).
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), Peak Limestone - Stoney (1987),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 ELECTRIC QUARRY  
2RoraimaHVS 5b 3
3The Disillusioned Brew MachineE3 5c 1
4Helmut SchmittE6 6b **5
5Cabbage CrackE4 6a **71
6JasperE3 6a **74
7The HeatE5 6a 1
8OliverE4 6a ***51
9Millionaire TouchE4 6b **28
10X CalibreE6 6b  
11IcarusE1 5b 2
12Brown CornerHVS 5a 44
13One 'ard MoveE6 6b  
14DamoclesE3 5b *13
15Golden BoyE5 6b *1
16Emotional RescueE5 6a *6
17John PeelE2 5b *36
18Creeping FleshE4 6a  
 THE SLURPER  
20AcrophobiaHVS 5a *15
21J ArthurE1 5b *4
22Easy ActionE1 5b *34
23The SlurperE1 5c *31
24GollyberryE2 5c 8
25Lard WallE5 6a 1
26PsychopathE1 5b 2
27DaedalusE4 6a 1
28VickyE1 5b  
 TRIGLYPH/MORTUARY BUTTRESS  
30Drainpipe GrooveVS 4c *13
31Speed KillsE4 6a *5
32The MorgueE3 5c *14
33Mortuary StepsHVS 5b **84
34Hart AttackE5 6b  
35Cardiac ArrestE4 6a *4
36Beta BlockerE5 6b  
37Little CapucinHVS 5a 30
38How the HellVS 4c *40
39What the HellVS 4b *84
40Hell Hath No FuryE2 5b  
41Morning CrackS *50
42Hellish morningVS 4b ** 
 IVY BUTTRESS  
44NazeVD 7
45Child's AreteHVS 5a 4
46EmanonHS 6
 TOM'S ROOF  
48Tom's Originalf7A *162
49Tom's Original Reverse *f7A 23
50Tom's Original There and Back *f7A+ **15
51The Womb into Tom's Original *f7A **9
52The Wombf6C *19
53Punker Bunkerf7A+ 49
54Armbanditf7C 1
55Power Allowancef7B **36
56Swing Thingf7B *25
57Quintesscencef8A * 
58Pete's Power Pullf7C **3
59Power trip *f7C 3
60You've Pulled *f8A 2
61Rack and Ruinf7C 3
62Jerryatricksf7C+ *2
63Jerry's Problemf7C+ 1
64PDB problem 12f7C  
65Tom's Roof problem 13 (PDB)f7C 2
66Figure of 8f7B+ *16
67Let's go round again (fig 8 reverse) *f7C 4
68Figure of 16 *f7C 5
 PRAYER WHEEL WALL  
70OmletteE3 6a 5
71OmE2 5b 157
72Shit WallE2 5b 42
73ManiE1 5b *245
74PadmeHVS 5a *368
 PEARLY GATES BUTTRESS  
76looking Through Gary Gibson's EyesHVS 5a 7
77AsparagusVS 4b 155
78RobinE2 5b 10
79Cock-a-leekie WallE2 5c 98
80Vinegar FlyVS 5a 4
81MinestroneHVS 5a 40
82Rosehip WineHS 4a 61
83Jungle AreteVD 6
84PollyannaE1 5b 12
85JuggernautVS 5a 10
86HorizonVD 17
87Lost HorizonVD 29
88Aux BicyclettesVD 26
89Fingal's FlueVS 4c 9
90Fingal's CaveVS 5a 4
91The GroperVS 4c,4b 3
92The White KnightVD 45
93BenE2 5c 3
94Gabriel and the Pearly GatesVS 4c **410
95SolitaireE1 5b 75
96St. PeterE1 5c *228
97St. PaulE3 5c 13
98ParachuteVS 4a *184
99Roman CandleVS 4c 5
100Au GratinHS 4a 40
101Didgery Doodah *E1 5a  
 MINUS TEN WALL  
103Cracked WallV0- 19
104Flat WallV0 5a 18
105Triangle Link-upV0 5a 15
106Minus WallHVS 5b 13
107Minus Wall StartV0 *17
108Minus Wall RightV3 6a *15
109Minus TenHVS 5a *220
110Great EscapeE1 5b 3
111Jam SandwichE5 6b 7
112Traffic JamE5 6b **64
113Double ScotchE2 5b *232
114CointreauHVS 5a 93
115The Flashing FisherE3 5c 11
116Pygmies Walk TallHVS 5b *16
117ThrutchHVS 5a 21
118Quent's Dynof7B **49
119Not Ned's Problemf7B+ 21
120Harris Problemf7B+ 2
121White Ladderf7C 7
122White Ladder (sit start) *f7C 4
123The JABPf7C **1
124Sharp Pocketf7B+  
125Little Warm-upV2 12
126Egyptian Feetf7A+ 47
127Egyptian VariationV7 *3
128Easy dynof6A 12
129One Arm Banditf7B *40
130Kirton Dynof7A+ *70
131Sean's Problemf7B+ *16
132Sean's Problem Variant *f7C 1
133Zippy's Sidepullf7B+ *24
134Guidebook Elevenf6C+ 83
135Slopey Sidepullf7A+ **16
136Lucian's Undercutf7A **62
137Zippy's Problemf7B+ **13
138Zippy's Problem variant 1f7B+ *5
139Zippy's Problem variant 2f7C **5
140Pinch 2f7C+ ***2
141Nasty Traversef7C+ *3
142The Double Doublef6C *81
143Young Americanf7A+ **69
144Megatronf7A+ *23
145Megatron Turbof7A+ 2
146The Upper Breakf5 *22
147The Middle Breakf6B *89
148The Wall Traversef6C+ *18
149George's wall Dynof7B 1
150George's wall dyno (sloper)f7C 3
151Slopey Sidepull Variant *f7B *5
152Zeno's Sidepull *f7C 1
 CARL'S WALK  
154Tiger Crack *E2 6a *1
155CostaBravaHVS 5b 3
156Carl's Wark Traversef7B *** 
157Little CrackVS 5a 9
158SqueekE5 6a  
159More Air than Chocolatef6A *5
160Flake and PillarE1 5b 25
161Au Revoir Monodoigtf7B  
162Bubbles Startf6B+ *12
163Bubbles WallE4 6b **88
164Bubbles OriginalE3 5c *4
165Black KabulE5 6b *7
166Carls Wark CrackE2 5c **150
167ScarabE6 6b **3
168All Systems GoE6 6c  
169Green CrackVS 4c 71
170SoapsudsE3 6a *31
171Shaky CrackVD 8
172Soapsuds Traversef6B+ 8
 MEDUSA BAY  
174HammerVS 4b 1
175WhetE2 5b 1
176SickleE1 5a *27
177Boat Pushers WallE3 5c *29
178Big BorisE5 6a 1
179Wee DorisE4 5c ***177
180MedusaE1 5b **159
181Gesemini originalE1 5b 9
182Gesemini DirectE3 6a *25
183PickpocketE4 6a *64
 BITTERFINGERS BAY  
185Frisco BayVS 4c *40
186Bay of PigsE1 5b 2
187Golden GateHVS 5a *92
188HingesE1 5b, 5a 1
189Bingo WallE2 5b *119
190Kelly's EyeE4 6a *30
191The year of living DangerouslyE4 5c 1
192Mind-blindE5 6b 1
193The Rainbow WomanE3 6a 1
194WallopHS 4b 20
195Flavour of the MonthE6 6b *1
196My Personal PleasureE6 6c 1
197BelindaE4 6a *1
198FrothVS 4c **325
199Mottled WallE4 5c 1
200Mingtled/Mottled WallE4 5c 6
201Dead Banana CrackE1 5c **316
202Top BananaE3 6a 2
203BitterfingersE4 6a ***132
204The Great LevellerE6 6b  
205OkraE4 6a *4
206Fe Fi Fo FumHVS 5a 214
207BeanstalkE3 5c 3
208AugeanVS 4c 50
209HerculesE4 5c * 
210ivy Grotto DirectHVS 5a 2
211Anything CornerVS 4b 5
212MineshaftD 24
213Shellfish ShuffleS 3
214TantalusHS 4b *7
 TOWER OF BABEL  
216Babylon BypassHVS 4b 3
217Glory RoadVS 4b *156
218SinVS 4c **208
219Lucy SimmonsE2 5b *73
220The Tower of BabelE1 5b 23
221RevulvaHVS 5b 2
 WINDY BUTTRESS  
223ChantrelleE1 5a 6
224Black TeddyE2 5c 4
225InquisitorE1 5c *83
226Dies IraeE2 5c **162
227Stuff the TurkeyE4 6b 3
228CirceE5 6b *30
229GasperaE5 6b *1
230Swine VesicularE6 6b  
231KinkE5 6b *10
232Kinky7c 1
233KelloggE5 6b **15
234Nice in NiceE5 6b *2
235Kingdom ComeE5 6b *10
236Special KE4 6a *11
237The Flakes DirectE2 5c **83
238The FlakesE2 5c ***54
239ArmageddonE2 5c **153
240WindhoverE2 5c **216
241TransmaiaconE5 6a 2
242ChossHVS 5b 17
243Scoop WallE2 5c ***283
244Our FatherE4 6b **85
245MenopauseE5 6b *10
246MemnonE2 5c *36
247Memnon VariationE3 5c 11
248Racial HarmonyE4 5c *1
249AuroraVS 4c *234
250HysterectomyE5 6c  
251Aurora ArêteHVS 4c,5a *26
252Aurora Arete/Tiger TrotHVS 5a **115
253Tiger TrotVD *30
254AlcasanE2 5c **95
 GARAGE BUTTRESS  
256Ticket to the UnderworldE4 4a,5c 1
257Compositae GrooveHVS 5a *46
258Trigger7a+ 3
259Two Ton Ted from Teddington6c 5
260Knockin' on the Bread Man's Door6c+ *3
261Bohemian6c *11
262Empty Cartridge6c *14
263Unloaded6c+ *9
264Reloaded6c **20
265I Hate You7a+ *19
266MatricideE4 6a 5
267MatrixE3 5b 1
268Four Minute TilerE5 6b **3
269Alex It was Nothing ReallyE5 6b 1
270La Belle et la BeteE5 6b *4
271Colonel BogeyE4 6a **22
272HeliconE3 5c *46
273RippemoffE1 5c *59
274ChewemoffE4 6a *8
275GerremdownE3 4c,5b **3
276Turf 'em Off6b+ 1
277Glue 'em Back7b 1
278Dig Deeper8a *2
279Dig Deep For Victory7c 7
280Ozone Bozo7c **17
281Tollbar8a+ **2
282Trouble with Rubble8a *2
283The Big Apple8a *11
284The Lover's Leap7b+ *2
285Easy SkankingE6 6b,6a * 
286Little Plum (pitch 1)7c+ **11
287Little Plum8a ***12
288Big NoseE4 6a 1
289Ming the Merciless8a+ 1
290The King of Ming (Redundant)7b+ **51
291Virgin King7b **6
292Virgin on the LooseE6 6b  
293Smoothlands6a 6
294Lowerlands5c 5
295FlycatcherE5 6a 1
296Lowlands6c+ 31
297Dreamcatcher6c *63
298Creamsnatcher6b 68
299EvasorVS 4c *104
300Can't Stop Now6c+ *11
301Up Yours7a *2
302Four Thousand (full)6c 36
303Four Thousand (short)6a+ 23
304Onwards and Upwards6a+ 34
305Nowt about Change6b 16
306AtroposHVS 5a *3
307AquilineHVS 5b 15
308PendulumHVS 5a *59
309My Girdle is Killing Me *E4 6a, 5b 1
 OTHER BOULDERING  
311Rockfax Problem 21(Minus Ten - Right)V1 5c 17
312Rockfax Problem 22 (Minus Ten - Right)V2 6a 20
313Rockfax Problem 23 (Minus Ten - Right)V4 6b *10
314Rockfax Problem 1 (Minus Ten - Central)f6B 9
315Rockfax Problem 20 (Minus Ten - Central)f6A 8
316Rockfax Problem 8 (Minus Ten - Central) (Stoney Middleton)f6C+ 6
317Rockfax Problem 1 (George's Wall) (Stoney Middleton)f6B+ 6
318Odd Thingf7B 9
319Arete left handf6A *5
320Arete right handf6C+ *1
321Problem 6f7A 17
322Problem 13 (Left hand Side)f7A 5
323Triangular Pocketsf6B+ **9
 UNKNOWN/NOT IN GUIDE/INCORRECT, ENTRIES  
325RF, Problem 5 *f7A **1
326Figure of 24 *f7C 1
327The groove (Georges wall) *f6A+ 5
328Rockfax problem 24 (minus 10 right) *f6C 5
329Problem 7 *f7A+ 6
330Triangle pocket (ukb guide problem 6) *f7A 5
331Problem 8 *f7A+ 2
332Pdb problem 1 central *f7B+ *1
333Triangle Undercling *f6C *1
334Diamond Pinch *f7C 4
335Blockhead's Arete *f7A+ 5
336Crimp Shrimp *f6B **6
337UKB topo 11. Minus 10 left. *f7A 1
338Left (UKB online topo) *f6C 1
339Gav's Problem *f7B 1
340Problem 11 UKB topo Minus Ten left *f6B+ 2
341Zippy's Sidepull Variant 1 *f7C 1
342Jimmyatricks *f7C+ 1
343Sign My Name *E2 5c 2
344The Brighton Line *E1 5b,5b *2
345Tony's Bloody Finger *E1 5b,5b 2
346Monosod *E2 5c * 
347Lesley Ann *E3 6a 1
348Canine of Brine *E2 5b 1
349Master of Tides *VS 4b 1
350End of the Line *E1 5b 1
351Tower of Babel indirect *E1 5b  
352Coffee High *V4 2
353Prefab Brick Cake *V1 *3
354Face Off *V4 2
355Facade *V5 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer kristian

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
been caving today down carlswark, with mate, and a young lad.. thanks to the low life dirty scum bag, the took a dump in the gin entrance. shame on you,surely there was else where to do it.and by the way you need to see a doctor. gross.. good caving trip though, all the way to the shaft an back..
robert oakton - 01/Apr/14
If you looking for a great place to climb, classic problems with inspirational lines, good footholds and well maintained handholds, with great moves and a stunning atmosphere and surroundings. then DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT ever got to Stoney Middleston!...Ever!
Liam Copley - 11/Feb/09
I once bet Brian Cropper I could solo Minus Ten a hundred times in a day, we got to 35 and Brian got bored so he paid up on the bet :-)
Al Evans - 30/Jul/07