Stoney Middleton

Climbs 343 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A series of impressive buttress up to 50m high offering almost exclusively traditional routes at mainly VS and above on good rock. One of the original forcing grounds of hard limestone climbing, now sadly neglected, and therefore seldom busy. Many superb climbs, although some classics are polished. Sheltered and quick drying. Too many superb routes to choose from, but of National worth are the multi-pitch traverse of Alcasan (E2) and Our Father (E4 6b,5a). Home of some of the hardest and most polished bouldering in the Peak.

Access notes
A true roadside crag! From a large layby on the A623 just between the village of Stoney Middleton and the crag cross the road (1 min).
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), Peak Limestone - Stoney (1987),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 ELECTRIC QUARRY 
2RoraimaHVS 5b
3The Disillusioned Brew MachineE3 5c
4Helmut SchmittE6 6b **
5Cabbage CrackE4 6a **
6JasperE3 6a **
7The HeatE5 6a
8OliverE4 6a ***
9Millionaire TouchE4 6b **
10X CalibreE6 6b
11IcarusE1 5b
12Brown CornerHVS 5a
13One 'ard MoveE6 6b
14DamoclesE3 5b *
15Golden BoyE5 6b *
16Emotional RescueE5 6a *
17John PeelE2 5b *
18Creeping FleshE4 6a
 THE SLURPER 
20AcrophobiaHVS 5a *
21J ArthurE1 5b *
22Easy ActionE1 5b *
23The SlurperE1 5c *
24GollyberryE2 5c
25Lard WallE5 6a
26PsychopathE1 5b
27DaedalusE4 6a
28VickyE1 5b
 TRIGLYPH/MORTUARY BUTTRESS 
30Drainpipe GrooveVS 4c *
31Speed KillsE4 6a *
32The MorgueE3 5c *
33Mortuary StepsHVS 5b **
34Hart AttackE5 6b
35Cardiac ArrestE4 6a *
36Beta BlockerE5 6b
37Little CapucinHVS 5a
38How the HellVS 4c *
39What the HellVS 4b *
40Hell Hath No FuryE2 5b
41Morning CrackS *
42Hellish morningVS 4b **
 IVY BUTTRESS 
44NazeVD
45Child's AreteHVS 5a
46EmanonHS
 TOM'S ROOF 
48Tom's Originalf7A *
49Tom's Original Reverse *f7A
50Tom's Original There and Back *f7A+ **
51The Womb into Tom's Original *f7A **
52The Wombf6C *
53Punker Bunkerf7A+
54Armbanditf7C
55Power Allowancef7B **
56Swing Thingf7B *
57Quintesscencef8A *
58Pete's Power Pullf7C **
59Power trip *f7C
60You've Pulled *f8A
61Rack and Ruinf7C
62Jerryatricksf7C+ *
63Jerry's Problemf7C+
64PDB problem 12f7C
65Tom's Roof problem 13 (PDB)f7C
66Figure of 8f7B+ *
67Let's go round again (fig 8 reverse) *f7C
68Figure of 16 *f7C
 PRAYER WHEEL WALL 
70OmletteE3 6a
71OmE2 5b
72Shit WallE2 5b
73ManiE1 5b *
74PadmeHVS 5a *
 PEARLY GATES BUTTRESS 
76looking Through Gary Gibson's EyesHVS 5a
77AsparagusVS 4b
78RobinE2 5b
79Cock-a-leekie WallE2 5c
80Vinegar FlyVS 5a
81MinestroneHVS 5a
82Rosehip WineHS 4a
83Jungle AreteVD
84PollyannaE1 5b
85JuggernautVS 5a
86HorizonVD
87Lost HorizonVD
88Aux BicyclettesVD
89Fingal's FlueVS 4c
90Fingal's CaveVS 5a
91The GroperVS 4c,4b
92The White KnightVD
93BenE2 5c
94Gabriel and the Pearly GatesVS 4c **
95SolitaireE1 5b
96St. PeterE1 5c *
97St. PaulE3 5c
98ParachuteVS 4a *
99Roman CandleVS 4c
100Au GratinHS 4a
101Didgery Doodah *E1 5a
 MINUS TEN WALL 
103Cracked WallV0-
104Flat WallV0 5a
105Triangle Link-upV0 5a
106Minus WallHVS 5b
107Minus Wall StartV0 *
108Minus Wall RightV3 6a *
109Minus TenHVS 5a *
110Great EscapeE1 5b
111Jam SandwichE5 6b
112Traffic JamE5 6b **
113Double ScotchE2 5b *
114CointreauHVS 5a
115The Flashing FisherE3 5c
116Pygmies Walk TallHVS 5b *
117ThrutchHVS 5a
118Quent's Dynof7B **
119Not Ned's Problemf7B+
120Harris Problemf7B+
121White Ladderf7C
122White Ladder (sit start) *f7C
123The JABPf7C **
124Sharp Pocketf7B+
125Little Warm-upV2
126Egyptian Feetf7A+
127Egyptian VariationV7 *
128Easy dynof6A
129One Arm Banditf7B *
130Kirton Dynof7A+ *
131Sean's Problemf7B+ *
132Sean's Problem Variant *f7C
133Zippy's Sidepullf7B+ *
134Guidebook Elevenf6C+
135Slopey Sidepullf7A+ **
136Lucian's Undercutf7A **
137Zippy's Problemf7B+ **
138Zippy's Problem variant 1f7B+ *
139Zippy's Problem variant 2f7C **
140Pinch 2f7C+ ***
141Nasty Traversef7C+ *
142The Double Doublef6C *
143Young Americanf7A+ **
144Megatronf7A+ *
145Megatron Turbof7A+
146The Upper Breakf5 *
147The Middle Breakf6B *
148The Wall Traversef6C+ *
149George's wall Dynof7B
150George's wall dyno (sloper)f7C
151Slopey Sidepull Variant *f7B *
152Zeno's Sidepull *f7C
 CARL'S WALK 
154Tiger Crack *E2 6a *
155CostaBravaHVS 5b
156Carl's Wark Traversef7B ***
157Little CrackVS 5a
158SqueekE5 6a
159More Air than Chocolatef6A *
160Flake and PillarE1 5b
161Au Revoir Monodoigtf7B
162Bubbles Startf6B+ *
163Bubbles WallE4 6b **
164Bubbles OriginalE3 5c *
165Black KabulE5 6b *
166Carls Wark CrackE2 5c **
167ScarabE6 6b **
168All Systems GoE6 6c
169Green CrackVS 4c
170SoapsudsE3 6a *
171Shaky CrackVD
172Soapsuds Traversef6B+
 MEDUSA BAY 
174HammerVS 4b
175WhetE2 5b
176SickleE1 5a *
177Boat Pushers WallE3 5c *
178Big BorisE5 6a
179Wee DorisE4 5c ***
180MedusaE1 5b **
181Gesemini originalE1 5b
182Gesemini DirectE3 6a *
183PickpocketE4 6a *
 BITTERFINGERS BAY 
185Frisco BayVS 4c *
186Bay of PigsE1 5b
187Golden GateHVS 5a *
188HingesE1 5b, 5a
189Bingo WallE2 5b *
190Kelly's EyeE4 6a *
191The year of living DangerouslyE4 5c
192Mind-blindE5 6b
193The Rainbow WomanE3 6a
194WallopHS 4b
195Flavour of the MonthE6 6b *
196My Personal PleasureE6 6c
197BelindaE4 6a *
198FrothVS 4c **
199Mottled WallE4 5c
200Mingtled/Mottled WallE4 5c
201Dead Banana CrackE1 5c **
202Top BananaE3 6a
203BitterfingersE4 6a ***
204The Great LevellerE6 6b
205OkraE4 6a *
206Fe Fi Fo FumHVS 5a
207BeanstalkE3 5c
208AugeanVS 4c
209HerculesE4 5c *
210ivy Grotto DirectHVS 5a
211Anything CornerVS 4b
212MineshaftD
213Shellfish ShuffleS
214TantalusHS 4b *
 TOWER OF BABEL 
216Babylon BypassHVS 4b
217Glory RoadVS 4b *
218SinVS 4c **
219Lucy SimmonsE2 5b *
220The Tower of BabelE1 5b
221RevulvaHVS 5b
 WINDY BUTTRESS 
223ChantrelleE1 5a
224Black TeddyE2 5c
225InquisitorE1 5c *
226Dies IraeE2 5c **
227Stuff the TurkeyE4 6b
228CirceE5 6b *
229GasperaE5 6b *
230Swine VesicularE6 6b
231KinkE5 6b *
232Kinky7c
233KelloggE5 6b **
234Nice in NiceE5 6b *
235Kingdom ComeE5 6b *
236Special KE4 6a *
237The Flakes DirectE2 5c **
238The FlakesE2 5c ***
239ArmageddonE2 5c **
240WindhoverE2 5c **
241TransmaiaconE5 6a
242ChossHVS 5b
243Scoop WallE2 5c ***
244Our FatherE4 6b **
245MenopauseE5 6b *
246MemnonE2 5c *
247Memnon VariationE3 5c
248Racial HarmonyE4 5c *
249AuroraVS 4c *
250HysterectomyE5 6c
251Aurora ArêteHVS 4c,5a *
252Aurora Arete/Tiger TrotHVS 5a **
253Tiger TrotVD *
254AlcasanE2 5c **
 GARAGE BUTTRESS 
256Ticket to the UnderworldE4 4a,5c
257Compositae GrooveHVS 5a *
258Trigger7a+
259Two Ton Ted from Teddington6c
260Knockin' on the Bread Man's Door6c+ *
261Bohemian6c *
262Empty Cartridge6c *
263Unloaded6c+ *
264Reloaded6c **
265I Hate You7a+ *
266MatricideE4 6a
267MatrixE3 5b
268Four Minute TilerE5 6b **
269Alex It was Nothing ReallyE5 6b
270La Belle et la BeteE5 6b *
271Colonel BogeyE4 6a **
272HeliconE3 5c *
273RippemoffE1 5c *
274ChewemoffE4 6a *
275GerremdownE3 4c,5b **
276Turf 'em Off6b+
277Glue 'em Back7a+
278There Maybe Rubble Ahead7b+
279Rubble Rouser7c
280Dig Deeper8a *
281Dig Deep For Victory7c
282Ozone Bozo7c **
283Tollbar8a+ **
284Trouble with Rubble8a *
285The Big Apple8a *
286The Lover's Leap7b+ *
287Easy SkankingE6 6b,6a *
288Little Plum (pitch 1)7c+ **
289Little Plum8a ***
290Big NoseE4 6a
291Ming the Merciless8a+
292The King of Ming (Redundant)7b+ **
293Virgin King7b **
294Virgin on the LooseE6 6b
295Smoothlands6a
296Lowerlands5c
297FlycatcherE5 6a
298Lowlands6c+
299Dreamcatcher6c *
300Creamsnatcher6b
301EvasorVS 4c *
302Can't Stop Now6c+ *
303Up Yours6c+ *
304Four Thousand (full)6c
305Four Thousand (short)6a+
306Onwards and Upwards6a+
307Nowt about Change6b
308AtroposHVS 5a *
309AquilineHVS 5b
310PendulumHVS 5a *
311My Girdle is Killing Me *E4 6a, 5b
 OTHER BOULDERING 
313Rockfax Problem 21(Minus Ten - Right)V1 5c
314Rockfax Problem 22 (Minus Ten - Right)V2 6a
315Rockfax Problem 23 (Minus Ten - Right)V4 6b *
316Rockfax Problem 1 (Minus Ten - Central)f6B
317Rockfax Problem 20 (Minus Ten - Central)f6A
318Rockfax Problem 8 (Minus Ten - Central) (Stoney Middleton)f6C+
319Rockfax Problem 1 (George's Wall) (Stoney Middleton)f6B+
320Odd Thingf7B
321Arete left handf6A *
322Arete right handf6C+ *
323Problem 6f7A
324Problem 13 (Left hand Side)f7A
325Triangular Pocketsf6B+ **
 UNKNOWN/NOT IN GUIDE/INCORRECT, ENTRIES 
327RF, Problem 5 *f7A **
328Figure of 24 *f7C
329The groove (Georges wall) *f6A+
330Rockfax problem 24 (minus 10 right) *f6C
331Problem 7 *f7A+
332Triangle pocket (ukb guide problem 6) *f7A
333Problem 8 *f7A+
334Pdb problem 1 central *f7B+ *
335Triangle Undercling *f6C *
336Diamond Pinch *f7C
337Blockhead's Arete *f7A+
338Crimp Shrimp *f6B **
339UKB topo 11. Minus 10 left. *f7A
340Left (UKB online topo) *f6C
341Gav's Problem *f7B
342Problem 11 UKB topo Minus Ten left *f6B+
343Zippy's Sidepull Variant 1 *f7C
344Jimmyatricks *f7C+
345Sign My Name *E2 5c
346The Brighton Line *E1 5b,5b *
347Tony's Bloody Finger *E1 5b,5b
348Monosod *E2 5c *
349Lesley Ann *E3 6a
350Canine of Brine *E2 5b
351Master of Tides *VS 4b
352End of the Line *E1 5b
353Tower of Babel indirect *E1 5b
354Coffee High *V4
355Prefab Brick Cake *V1 *
356Face Off *V4
357Facade *V5
358The Power Pinch *f7C+
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer kristian

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
been caving today down carlswark, with mate, and a young lad.. thanks to the low life dirty scum bag, the took a dump in the gin entrance. shame on you,surely there was else where to do it.and by the way you need to see a doctor. gross.. good caving trip though, all the way to the shaft an back..
robert oakton - 01/Apr/14
If you looking for a great place to climb, classic problems with inspirational lines, good footholds and well maintained handholds, with great moves and a stunning atmosphere and surroundings. then DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT ever got to Stoney Middleston!...Ever!
Liam Copley - 11/Feb/09
I once bet Brian Cropper I could solo Minus Ten a hundred times in a day, we got to 35 and Brian got bored so he paid up on the bet :-)
Al Evans - 30/Jul/07
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 11/Sep/2014

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