Climbs 383
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces W

Mark on the short sharp crux of Little Plumb (pitch one) © Wood for Trees

Crag features

A series of impressive buttress up to 50m high offering almost exclusively traditional routes at mainly VS and above on good rock. One of the original forcing grounds of hard limestone climbing, now sadly neglected, and therefore seldom busy. Many superb climbs, although some classics are polished. Sheltered and quick drying. Too many superb routes to choose from, but of National worth are the multi-pitch traverse of Alcasan (E2) and Our Father (E4 6b,5a). Home of some of the hardest and most polished bouldering in the Peak.

Approach notes

A true roadside crag! From a large layby on the A623 just between the village of Stoney Middleton and the crag cross the road (1 min).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
been caving today down carlswark, with mate, and a young lad.. thanks to the low life dirty scum bag, the took a dump in the gin entrance. shame on you,surely there was else where to do it.and by the way you need to see a doctor. gross.. good caving trip though, all the way to the shaft an back..
robert oakton - 01/Apr/14
If you looking for a great place to climb, classic problems with inspirational lines, good footholds and well maintained handholds, with great moves and a stunning atmosphere and surroundings. then DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT ever got to Stoney Middleston!...Ever!
Liam Copley - 11/Feb/09
I once bet Brian Cropper I could solo Minus Ten a hundred times in a day, we got to 35 and Brian got bored so he paid up on the bet :-)
Al Evans - 30/Jul/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Electric quarry 
2Roraima
-
HVS 5b 3
3The Disillusioned Brew Machine
-
E3 5c 2
4Holy SchmittE3 5c 1
5Helmut SchmittE6 6b **5
6Cabbage CrackE4 6a **104
7JasperE3 6a **92
8The Heat
-
E5 6a 1
9OliverE4 6a ***65
10Millionaire TouchE4 6b ***35
11X CalibreE6 6b  
12IcarusE1 5b 2
13Brown CornerHVS 5a *47
14One 'ard Move
-
E6 6b 1
15DamoclesE3 5b *15
16Golden BoyE5 6b *1
17Emotional RescueE5 6b *8
18John PeelE2 5b *43
19Creeping FleshE4 6a  
 The Slurper 
21AcrophobiaHVS 5a *26
22J ArthurE1 5b 5
23Easy ActionE1 5b **45
24The SlurperE1 5c *38
25Gollyberry
-
E2 5c 9
26Lard Wall
-
E5 6a 1
27Psychopath
-
E1 5b 3
28Daedalus
-
E4 6a 1
29Vicky
-
E1 5b  
 Triglyph/Mortuary buttress 
31Drainpipe GrooveVS 4c 15
32Speed KillsE4 6a *5
33The MorgueE3 5c *16
34Mortuary StepsHVS 5b **115
35Hart AttackE5 6b  
36Cardiac ArrestE4 6a *7
37Beta BlockerE5 6b  
38Little CapucinHVS 5a *43
39How the HellVS 4c *53
40What the HellVS 4b *98
41Hell Hath No FuryE2 5b  
42Morning CrackS 4a *55
43Hellish morningVS 4b ** 
 Ivy Buttress 
45NazeVD 8
46Child's AreteHVS 5a 5
47Emanon
-
HS 6
 Tom's Roof 
49Tom's Original
-
f7A *209
50Tom's Original Reverse *f7A 32
51Tom's Original There and Back *f7A+ **21
52The Womb into Tom's Original *f7A **12
53The Womb
-
f6C *25
54Punker Bunker
-
f7A+ 65
55Armbanditf7C 5
56Power Allowance
-
f7B **46
57Swing Thing
-
f7B *31
58Quintesscence
-
f8A * 
59Pete's Power Pull
-
f7C **7
60Power trip *f7C 5
61You've Pulled *f8A 3
62Rack and Ruin
-
f7C 3
63Jerryatricks
-
f7C+ *3
64Jerry's Problem
-
f7C+ 1
65PDB problem 12f7C 1
66Tom's Roof problem 13 (PDB)f7C 2
67Figure of 8
-
f7B+ *25
68Let's go round again (fig 8 reverse) *f7C 6
69Figure of 16 *f7C 7
 Prayer Wheel Wall 
71OmletteE3 6a 7
72OmE1 5b *213
73Shit WallE2 5b 48
74ManiE1 5b *326
75PadmeHVS 5a **493
 Pearly Gates Buttress 
77looking Through Gary Gibson's EyesHVS 5a 11
78AsparagusVS 4b *219
79RobinE2 5b 12
80Cock-a-leekie WallE2 5c 133
81Vinegar FlyHVS 5a 4
82MinestroneHVS 4c *61
83Rosehip WineHS 4a *88
84Jungle Arete
-
VD 7
85PollyannaE1 5b 15
86JuggernautVS 5a 10
87HorizonS 4a 22
88Lost HorizonS 4a 39
89Aux BicyclettesVD 39
90Fingal's FlueHS 3c 37
91Fingal's CaveHVS 5a 9
92The GroperVS 4c,4b 6
93The White KnightVD 59
94Ben
-
E2 5c 4
95Gabriel and the Pearly GatesVS 4c ***546
96SolitaireE1 5b *85
97St. PeterE1 5c *280
98St. PaulE3 5c 14
99ParachuteVS 4b *236
100Roman CandleVS 4c 7
101Au GratinHS 4a 53
102Didgery DoodahE1 5a  
 Minus Ten Wall 
104Cracked WallV0- 41
105Flat WallV0 41
106Triangle Link-upV0 33
107Minus WallE1 5b 16
108Minus Wall StartV0 *40
109Minus Wall RightV3 *38
110Minus TenHVS 5a *291
111Great EscapeE1 5b 4
112Jam SandwichE5 6b 10
113Traffic JamE5 6b **88
114Double ScotchE2 5b *296
115CointreauHVS 5a *123
116The Flashing Fisher
-
E3 5c 13
117Pygmies Walk TallE1 5b *29
118ThrutchHVS 5a 26
119Flat LightE2 5c 1
120Quent's Dyno
-
f7B **67
121Not Ned's Problemf7B+ 32
122Harris Problemf7B+ 3
123White Ladder
-
f7C 19
124White Ladder (sit start)f7C 8
125The JABP
-
f7C **2
126Sharp Pocketf7B+ 1
127Little Warm-upV2 24
128Egyptian Feetf7A+ 76
129Egyptian VariationV7 *9
130Easy dynof6A 33
131One Arm Bandit
-
f7B *50
132Kirton Dyno
-
f7A+ *83
133Sean's Problem
-
f7B+ *21
134Sean's Problem Variantf7C 2
135Zippy's Sidepull
-
f7B+ *35
136Guidebook Elevenf6C+ 118
137Slopey Sidepullf7A+ **24
138Lucian's Undercut
-
f7A **78
139Zippy's Problem
-
f7B+ **20
140Zippy's Problem variant 1f7B+ *8
141Zippy's Problem variant 2f7C **9
142Pinch 2
-
f7C+ ***2
143Nasty Traverse
-
f7C+ *5
144The Double Double
-
f6C *112
145Young American
-
f7A+ **92
146Megatron
-
f7A+ *28
147Megatron Turbof7A+ 3
148The Upper Break
-
f5 *37
149The Middle Break
-
f6B *137
150The Wall Traverse
-
f6C+ *33
151George's wall Dynof7B 4
152George's wall dyno (sloper)f7C 3
153Slopey Sidepull Variantf7B *5
154Zeno's Sidepullf7C 4
 Carl's Walk 
156Tiger CrackE2 6a *2
157CostaBravaHVS 5b 4
158Carl's Wark Traverse
-
f7B *** 
159Little Crack
-
VS 5a 14
160SqueekE5 6a  
161More Air than Chocolate
-
f6A *7
162Flake and PillarE1 5b 35
163Au Revoir Monodoigtf7A+  
164Bubbles Start
-
f6B+ *16
165Bubbles WallE4 6b **108
166Bubbles OriginalE3 5c *22
167Black KabulE5 6b *10
168Carls Wark CrackE2 5c **189
169ScarabE6 6b **7
170All Systems GoE6 6c  
171Green CrackVS 4c *86
172SoapsudsE3 6a *38
173Shaky Crack
-
VD 9
174Soapsuds Traverse
-
f6B+ 17
 Medusa Bay 
176Hammer
-
VS 4b 1
177Whet
-
E2 5b 1
178SickleE1 5a *32
179Boat Pushers WallE3 5c *33
180Big BorisE5 6a 2
181Wee DorisE4 5c ***226
182MedusaE1 5b **213
183Gesemini originalE1 5b 14
184Gesemini DirectE3 5c *36
185PickpocketE4 6a **87
186The Artful DodgerE5 6b 1
 Bitterfingers Bay 
188Frisco BayVS 4c *51
189Bay of Pigs
-
E1 5b 5
190Golden GateHVS 5a **130
191HingesE1 5b, 5a 4
192Bingo WallE2 5b **151
193Kelly's EyeE4 6a *45
194The year of living Dangerously
-
E4 5c 1
195Mind BlindE6 6b 2
196The Rainbow Woman
-
E3 6a 1
197WallopHS 4b *27
198Flavour of the Month
-
E6 6b *1
199My Personal Pleasure
-
E6 6c 1
200BelindaE4 6a *1
201FrothVS 4c **412
202Mottled Wall
-
E4 5c 5
203Mingtled/Mottled WallE4 5c *11
204Dead Banana CrackE1 5c ***450
205Top Banana
-
E3 6a 3
206BitterfingersE4 6a ***177
207The Great LevellerE6 6b  
208OkraE4 6a *4
209Fe Fi Fo FumHVS 5a *260
210BeanstalkE3 5c 5
211AugeanVS 4c *60
212HerculesE4 5c 3
213SisypheanE4 6a *2
214ivy Grotto DirectHVS 5a 3
215Anything CornerVS 4b 7
216MineshaftM *30
217Shellfish Shuffle
-
S 3
218TantalusHS 4b 9
 Tower of Babel 
220Babylon Bypass
-
HVS 4b 4
221Glory RoadVS 4b *182
222SinVS 4c **260
223Lucy SimmonsE2 5b *85
224The Tower of Babel
-
E1 5b 31
225RevulvaHVS 5b 2
 Windy Buttress 
227ChantrelleE1 5a 10
228Black Teddy
-
E2 5c 4
229InquisitorE2 5c *116
230Tuba Mirum
-
E5 6b *2
231Dies IraeE2 5c ***217
232Stuff the TurkeyE4 6b 3
233CirceE5 6b **46
234GasperaE5 6b *2
235Swine VesicularE6 6b  
236KinkE5 6b **13
237Kinky7c 1
238KelloggE5 6b *20
239Nice in NiceE5 6b *2
240Kingdom ComeE5 6b *15
241Special KE4 6a *13
242The Flakes DirectE2 5c ***100
243The FlakesE2 5c **64
244ArmageddonE2 5c ***206
245WindhoverE2 5c **263
246Transmaiacon
-
E5 6a 2
247Choss
-
HVS 5b 20
248Scoop WallE2 5c ***407
249Our FatherE4 6b ***114
250MenopauseE5 6b **11
251MemnonE2 5c *46
252Memnon Variation
-
E3 5c 13
253Racial Harmony
-
E4 5c *1
254AuroraVS 4c **295
255HysterectomyE5 6c  
256Adios Tango
-
E4 6a **2
257Aurora ArÍteHVS 5a **54
258Aurora Arete/Tiger TrotHVS 5a **120
259Tiger TrotVD *37
260AlcasanE2 5c ***156
261Immortal Combat6b+ 2
 Garage Buttress 
263Fluffy Roo Meets the Woodentops
-
6b+ 1
264Ticket to the Underworld
-
E4 4a,5c 1
265Compositae GrooveHVS 5a *55
266Trigger7a+ 3
267Two Ton Ted from Teddington6b+ 5
268Knockin' on the Bread Man's Door6c 6
269Bohemian6b+ *18
270Empty Cartridge6b+ *23
271Unloaded6c 15
272Reloaded6b+ *33
273I Hate You7a+ *36
274MatricideE4 6a 13
275MatrixE3 5b 2
276Four Minute TilerE5 6b *5
277Alex It was Nothing ReallyE5 6b 1
278La Belle et la BeteE6 6b *4
279Colonel BogeyE4 6a **29
280HeliconE3 5c **63
281RippemoffE1 5c *80
282PullemdownE5 6a * 
283ChewemoffE4 6a *9
284GerremdownE3 4c,5b **5
285Turf 'em Off6b+ 10
286Glue 'em Back7b 4
287There Maybe Rubble Ahead7b 1
288Rubble Rouser7c 1
289Golden Delicious8a * 
290Dig Deeper8a *5
291Dig Deep For Victory7c 12
292Ozone Bozo7c *36
293Tollbar8a+ 8
294Double the Rubble7c *3
295Trouble with Rubble7c+ *8
296The Big Apple8a *27
297The Lover's Leap7b+ *2
298Easy SkankingE6 6b  
299Little Plum (pitch 1)7c+ **24
300Little Plum8a ***46
301Big NoseE4 6a 2
302Ming the Merciless8a+ *3
303The King of Ming (Redundant)7b+ **62
304Virgin King7b+ **69
305Virgin on the LooseE6 6b  
306Smoothlands6a 44
307Lowerlands5c 33
308FlycatcherE5 6a 1
309Lowlands6c+ *80
310Dreamcatcher6b+ *153
311Creamsnatcher6b *149
312Gulp and Go6b+ 35
313EvasorVS 4c **126
314Can't Stop Now6c 31
315Redeployed6c+ *11
316Up Yours7a *14
317Four Thousand6b+ *103
318Two Thousand6a+ 52
319Onwards and Upwards6a 94
320Nowt about Change6b 66
321End, Stop, Finale6b 39
322The Last Stop5b 28
323AtroposHVS 5a *5
324AquilineHVS 5b *16
325PendulumHVS 5a **68
326My Girdle is Killing Me
-
E4 6a, 5b 1
 Other Bouldering 
328Rockfax Problem 21(Minus Ten - Right)V1 17
329Rockfax Problem 22 (Minus Ten - Right)
-
V2 20
330Rockfax Problem 23 (Minus Ten - Right)
-
V4 *11
331Rockfax Problem 1 (Minus Ten - Central)
-
f6B 11
332Rockfax Problem 20 (Minus Ten - Central)
-
f6A 8
333Rockfax Problem 8 (Minus Ten - Central) (Stoney Middleton)
-
f6C+ 6
334Rockfax Problem 1 (George's Wall) (Stoney Middleton)
-
f6B+ 6
335Odd Thingf7B 9
336Arete left handf6A *5
337Arete right handf6C+ *1
338Problem 6f7A 20
339Problem 13 (Left hand Side)f7A 6
340Triangular Pocketsf6B+ **11
 unknown/not in guide/Incorrect, entries 
342RF, Problem 5f7A **1
343Figure of 24
-
f7C 1
344The groove (Georges wall)f6A+ 7
345Rockfax problem 24 (minus 10 right)f6C 5
346Problem 7f7A+ 8
347Triangle pocket (ukb guide problem 6)f7A 7
348Problem 8f7A+ 3
349Pdb problem 1 centralf7B+ *1
350Triangle Underclingf6C *1
351Diamond Pinchf7C 5
352Blockhead's Aretef7A+ 6
353Crimp Shrimpf6B **6
354UKB topo 11. Minus 10 left.f7A 3
355Left (UKB online topo)f6C 1
356Gav's Problemf7B 3
357Problem 11 UKB topo Minus Ten leftf6B+ 4
358Zippy's Sidepull Variant 1f7C 1
359Jimmyatricksf7C+ 1
360Sign My NameE2 5c 8
361The Brighton LineE1 5b,5b *2
362Tony's Bloody FingerE1 5b,5b 2
363MonosodE2 5c * 
364Lesley AnnE3 6a 1
365Canine of BrineE2 5b 1
366Master of TidesVS 4b 2
367End of the LineE1 5b 1
368Tower of Babel indirectE1 5b  
369Coffee HighV4 8
370Prefab Brick Cake
-
V1 *11
371Face Off
-
V4 18
372Facade
-
V5 11
373The Power Pinchf7C+ 1
374The Gherkinf7A ***3
375Not Zippy's Variant 3f6C *1
376Minus Wall Traverse
-
f6B+ 3
377Minus Wall Traverse (rockfax 2014 problem 6)f6B+ 6
378Soapsuds LeftV1 3
379soapsuds CrackV0+ 3
380Soapsuds RightV3 1
381Tiger DirectVS 4c 1
382Tiger TraverseHVS 5a  
383Tiger GrooveHS 4a  
384Has She Been?S 4a 1
385Mompesson Rich PickingsMVS 4c  
386HollyHVS 5c  
387WillowHVS 5c  
388Problem 12f6B 1
389Haven't Got a CluedoE2 5c *2
390Moss Side *E2 5b 1
391Choss Side *HVS 4c 1
392Harris Problem 3 *
-
f7B+ 1
393Blockheads Arete non eliminate *V0+ 1
394Power Allowance Check *f7B 4
395Phil 's phigure of 8 (minus ten) *f6C 2
396Phil 's phigure of 16 (minus ten) *f6C+ 1
397Phil 's phigure of 24 (minus ten) *f6C+  
398The Full Reverse *f7A *1
399Higherlands
-
6a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer kristian