Stoney Middleton

Climbs 359 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A series of impressive buttress up to 50m high offering almost exclusively traditional routes at mainly VS and above on good rock. One of the original forcing grounds of hard limestone climbing, now sadly neglected, and therefore seldom busy. Many superb climbs, although some classics are polished. Sheltered and quick drying. Too many superb routes to choose from, but of National worth are the multi-pitch traverse of Alcasan (E2) and Our Father (E4 6b,5a). Home of some of the hardest and most polished bouldering in the Peak.

Access notes
A true roadside crag! From a large layby on the A623 just between the village of Stoney Middleton and the crag cross the road (1 min).
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), Peak Limestone - Stoney (1987),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 ELECTRIC QUARRY  
2RoraimaHVS 5b 3
3The Disillusioned Brew MachineE3 5c 2
4Helmut SchmittE6 6b **5
5Cabbage CrackE4 6a **72
6JasperE3 6a **76
7The HeatE5 6a 1
8OliverE4 6a ***51
9Millionaire TouchE4 6b ***29
10X CalibreE6 6b  
11IcarusE1 5b 2
12Brown CornerHVS 5a *44
13One 'ard MoveE6 6b 1
14DamoclesE3 5b *13
15Golden BoyE5 6b *1
16Emotional RescueE5 6b *6
17John PeelE2 5b *37
18Creeping FleshE4 6a  
 THE SLURPER  
20AcrophobiaHVS 5a *15
21J ArthurE1 5b 4
22Easy ActionE1 5b **36
23The SlurperE1 5c *32
24GollyberryE2 5c 8
25Lard WallE5 6a 1
26PsychopathE1 5b 2
27DaedalusE4 6a 1
28VickyE1 5b  
 TRIGLYPH/MORTUARY BUTTRESS  
30Drainpipe GrooveVS 4c 15
31Speed KillsE4 6a *5
32The MorgueE3 5c *16
33Mortuary StepsHVS 5b **85
34Hart AttackE5 6b  
35Cardiac ArrestE4 6a *6
36Beta BlockerE5 6b  
37Little CapucinHVS 5a *33
38How the HellVS 4c *44
39What the HellVS 4b *88
40Hell Hath No FuryE2 5b  
41Morning CrackS 4a *50
42Hellish morningVS 4b ** 
 IVY BUTTRESS  
44NazeVD 7
45Child's AreteHVS 5a 4
46EmanonHS 6
 TOM'S ROOF  
48Tom's Originalf7A *169
49Tom's Original Reverse *f7A 24
50Tom's Original There and Back *f7A+ **17
51The Womb into Tom's Original *f7A **9
52The Wombf6C *19
53Punker Bunkerf7A+ 54
54Armbanditf7C 1
55Power Allowancef7B **38
56Swing Thingf7B *26
57Quintesscencef8A * 
58Pete's Power Pullf7C **4
59Power trip *f7C 4
60You've Pulled *f8A 3
61Rack and Ruinf7C 3
62Jerryatricksf7C+ *3
63Jerry's Problemf7C+ 1
64PDB problem 12f7C  
65Tom's Roof problem 13 (PDB)f7C 2
66Figure of 8f7B+ *17
67Let's go round again (fig 8 reverse) *f7C 4
68Figure of 16 *f7C 5
 PRAYER WHEEL WALL  
70OmletteE3 6a 5
71OmE1 5b *160
72Shit WallE2 5b 42
73ManiE1 5b *254
74PadmeHVS 5a **380
 PEARLY GATES BUTTRESS  
76looking Through Gary Gibson's EyesHVS 5a 7
77AsparagusVS 4b *160
78RobinE2 5b 11
79Cock-a-leekie WallE2 5c 100
80Vinegar FlyHVS 5a 4
81MinestroneHVS 4c *46
82Rosehip WineHS 4a *64
83Jungle AreteVD 6
84PollyannaE1 5b 12
85JuggernautVS 5a 10
86HorizonS 4a 18
87Lost HorizonS 4a 29
88Aux BicyclettesVD 28
89Fingal's FlueHS 3c 9
90Fingal's CaveHVS 5a 4
91The GroperVS 4c,4b 3
92The White KnightVD 46
93BenE2 5c 3
94Gabriel and the Pearly GatesVS 4c ***419
95SolitaireE1 5b *75
96St. PeterE1 5c *231
97St. PaulE3 5c 13
98ParachuteVS 4b *188
99Roman CandleVS 4c 5
100Au GratinHS 4a 41
101Didgery Doodah *E1 5a  
 MINUS TEN WALL  
103Cracked WallV0- 24
104Flat WallV0 5a 25
105Triangle Link-upV0 5a 20
106Minus WallE1 5b 13
107Minus Wall StartV0 *23
108Minus Wall RightV3 6a *23
109Minus TenHVS 5a *225
110Great EscapeE1 5b 3
111Jam SandwichE5 6b 9
112Traffic JamE5 6b **67
113Double ScotchE2 5b *242
114CointreauHVS 5a *94
115The Flashing FisherE3 5c 12
116Pygmies Walk TallE1 5b *17
117ThrutchHVS 5a 22
118Flat Light *E2 5c  
119Quent's Dynof7B **55
120Not Ned's Problemf7B+ 24
121Harris Problemf7B+ 3
122White Ladderf7C 9
123White Ladder (sit start) *f7C 4
124The JABPf7C **1
125Sharp Pocketf7B+ 1
126Little Warm-upV2 17
127Egyptian Feetf7A+ 55
128Egyptian VariationV7 *5
129Easy dynof6A 19
130One Arm Banditf7B *43
131Kirton Dynof7A+ *76
132Sean's Problemf7B+ *19
133Sean's Problem Variant *f7C 1
134Zippy's Sidepullf7B+ *29
135Guidebook Elevenf6C+ 95
136Slopey Sidepullf7A+ **18
137Lucian's Undercutf7A **67
138Zippy's Problemf7B+ **16
139Zippy's Problem variant 1f7B+ *6
140Zippy's Problem variant 2f7C **5
141Pinch 2f7C+ ***2
142Nasty Traversef7C+ *3
143The Double Doublef6C *95
144Young Americanf7A+ **79
145Megatronf7A+ *25
146Megatron Turbof7A+ 2
147The Upper Breakf5 *30
148The Middle Breakf6B *108
149The Wall Traversef6C+ *22
150George's wall Dynof7B 2
151George's wall dyno (sloper)f7C 3
152Slopey Sidepull Variant *f7B *5
153Zeno's Sidepull *f7C 3
 CARL'S WALK  
155Tiger Crack *E2 6a *1
156CostaBravaHVS 5b 4
157Carl's Wark Traversef7B *** 
158Little CrackVS 5a 9
159SqueekE5 6a  
160More Air than Chocolatef6A *7
161Flake and PillarE1 5b 25
162Au Revoir Monodoigtf7A+  
163Bubbles Startf6B+ *12
164Bubbles WallE4 6b **88
165Bubbles OriginalE3 5c *6
166Black KabulE5 6b *7
167Carls Wark CrackE2 5c **153
168ScarabE6 6b **3
169All Systems GoE6 6c  
170Green CrackVS 4c *71
171SoapsudsE3 6a *31
172Shaky CrackVD 8
173Soapsuds Traversef6B+ 11
 MEDUSA BAY  
175HammerVS 4b 1
176WhetE2 5b 1
177SickleE1 5a *29
178Boat Pushers WallE3 5c *29
179Big BorisE5 6a 2
180Wee DorisE4 5c ***180
181MedusaE1 5b **166
182Gesemini originalE1 5b 9
183Gesemini DirectE3 5c *26
184PickpocketE4 6a **64
 BITTERFINGERS BAY  
186Frisco BayVS 4c *41
187Bay of PigsE1 5b 2
188Golden GateHVS 5a **98
189HingesE1 5b, 5a 1
190Bingo WallE2 5b **121
191Kelly's EyeE4 6a *32
192The year of living DangerouslyE4 5c 1
193Mind BlindE6 6b 1
194The Rainbow WomanE3 6a 1
195WallopHS 4b *21
196Flavour of the MonthE6 6b *1
197My Personal PleasureE6 6c 1
198BelindaE4 6a *1
199FrothVS 4c **340
200Mottled WallE4 5c 1
201Mingtled/Mottled WallE4 5c *6
202Dead Banana CrackE1 5c ***331
203Top BananaE3 6a 2
204BitterfingersE4 6a ***134
205The Great LevellerE6 6b  
206OkraE4 6a *4
207Fe Fi Fo FumHVS 5a *219
208BeanstalkE3 5c 3
209AugeanVS 4c *51
210HerculesE4 5c  
211ivy Grotto DirectHVS 5a 2
212Anything CornerVS 4b 5
213MineshaftM *25
214Shellfish ShuffleS 3
215TantalusHS 4b 7
 TOWER OF BABEL  
217Babylon BypassHVS 4b 3
218Glory RoadVS 4b *158
219SinVS 4c **212
220Lucy SimmonsE2 5b *73
221The Tower of BabelE1 5b 23
222RevulvaHVS 5b 2
 WINDY BUTTRESS  
224ChantrelleE1 5a 7
225Black TeddyE2 5c 4
226InquisitorE2 5c *87
227Dies IraeE2 5c ***166
228Stuff the TurkeyE4 6b 3
229CirceE5 6b **31
230GasperaE5 6b *2
231Swine VesicularE6 6b  
232KinkE5 6b **10
233Kinky7c 1
234KelloggE5 6b *17
235Nice in NiceE5 6b *2
236Kingdom ComeE5 6b *11
237Special KE4 6a *11
238The Flakes DirectE2 5c ***85
239The FlakesE2 5c **56
240ArmageddonE2 5c ***164
241WindhoverE2 5c **222
242TransmaiaconE5 6a 2
243ChossHVS 5b 19
244Scoop WallE2 5c ***298
245Our FatherE4 6b ***87
246MenopauseE5 6b **11
247MemnonE2 5c *39
248Memnon VariationE3 5c 11
249Racial HarmonyE4 5c *1
250AuroraVS 4c **246
251HysterectomyE5 6c  
252Aurora ArêteHVS 5a **26
253Aurora Arete/Tiger TrotHVS 5a **116
254Tiger TrotVD *31
255AlcasanE2 5c ***102
 GARAGE BUTTRESS  
257Ticket to the UnderworldE4 4a,5c 1
258Compositae GrooveHVS 5a *48
259Trigger7a+ 3
260Two Ton Ted from Teddington6c 5
261Knockin' on the Bread Man's Door6c 3
262Bohemian6b+ *11
263Empty Cartridge6b+ *15
264Unloaded6c 10
265Reloaded6b+ *22
266I Hate You7a+ *23
267MatricideE4 6a 5
268MatrixE3 5b 1
269Four Minute TilerE5 6b *3
270Alex It was Nothing ReallyE5 6b 1
271La Belle et la BeteE6 6b *4
272Colonel BogeyE4 6a **22
273HeliconE3 5c **46
274RippemoffE1 5c *62
275ChewemoffE4 6a *8
276GerremdownE3 4c,5b **3
277Turf 'em Off6b+ 4
278Glue 'em Back7b 3
279There Maybe Rubble Ahead7b+ 1
280Rubble Rouser7c 1
281Dig Deeper8a *2
282Dig Deep For Victory7c 7
283Ozone Bozo7c *19
284Tollbar8a+ 2
285Trouble with Rubble7c+ *4
286The Big Apple8a *12
287The Lover's Leap7b+ *2
288Easy SkankingE6 6b  
289Little Plum (pitch 1)7c+ **12
290Little Plum8a ***14
291Big NoseE4 6a 2
292Ming the Merciless8a+ *1
293The King of Ming (Redundant)7b+ **52
294Virgin King7b **15
295Virgin on the LooseE6 6b  
296Smoothlands6a 15
297Lowerlands5c 10
298FlycatcherE5 6a 1
299Lowlands6c+ *37
300Dreamcatcher6b+ *75
301Creamsnatcher6b *81
302EvasorVS 4c **105
303Can't Stop Now6c 12
304Redeployed6c+ *1
305Up Yours7a *3
306Four Thousand6b+ *42
307Two Thousand6a+ 25
308Onwards and Upwards6a 43
309Nowt about Change6b 25
310End, Stop, Finale6b 2
311AtroposHVS 5a *3
312AquilineHVS 5b *15
313PendulumHVS 5a **61
314My Girdle is Killing Me *E4 6a, 5b 1
 OTHER BOULDERING  
316Rockfax Problem 21(Minus Ten - Right)V1 5c 17
317Rockfax Problem 22 (Minus Ten - Right)V2 6a 20
318Rockfax Problem 23 (Minus Ten - Right)V4 6b *10
319Rockfax Problem 1 (Minus Ten - Central)f6B 9
320Rockfax Problem 20 (Minus Ten - Central)f6A 8
321Rockfax Problem 8 (Minus Ten - Central) (Stoney Middleton)f6C+ 6
322Rockfax Problem 1 (George's Wall) (Stoney Middleton)f6B+ 6
323Odd Thingf7B 9
324Arete left handf6A *5
325Arete right handf6C+ *1
326Problem 6f7A 17
327Problem 13 (Left hand Side)f7A 5
328Triangular Pocketsf6B+ **9
 UNKNOWN/NOT IN GUIDE/INCORRECT, ENTRIES  
330RF, Problem 5 *f7A **1
331Figure of 24 *f7C 1
332The groove (Georges wall) *f6A+ 7
333Rockfax problem 24 (minus 10 right) *f6C 5
334Problem 7 *f7A+ 6
335Triangle pocket (ukb guide problem 6) *f7A 6
336Problem 8 *f7A+ 2
337Pdb problem 1 central *f7B+ *1
338Triangle Undercling *f6C *1
339Diamond Pinch *f7C 5
340Blockhead's Arete *f7A+ 6
341Crimp Shrimp *f6B **6
342UKB topo 11. Minus 10 left. *f7A 1
343Left (UKB online topo) *f6C 1
344Gav's Problem *f7B 2
345Problem 11 UKB topo Minus Ten left *f6B+ 3
346Zippy's Sidepull Variant 1 *f7C 1
347Jimmyatricks *f7C+ 1
348Sign My Name *E2 5c 2
349The Brighton Line *E1 5b,5b *2
350Tony's Bloody Finger *E1 5b,5b 2
351Monosod *E2 5c * 
352Lesley Ann *E3 6a 1
353Canine of Brine *E2 5b 1
354Master of Tides *VS 4b 1
355End of the Line *E1 5b 1
356Tower of Babel indirect *E1 5b  
357Coffee High *V4 5
358Prefab Brick Cake *V1 *7
359Face Off *V4 11
360Facade *V5 6
361The Power Pinch *f7C+ 1
362The Gherkin *f7A ***1
363Not Zippy's Variant 3 *f6C *1
364Minus Wall Traverse *f6B+ 1
365Minus Wall Traverse (rockfax 2014 problem 6) *f6B+ 3
366Soapsuds Left *V1 5b 1
367soapsuds Crack *V0+ 5a 1
368Soapsuds Right *V3 6a 1
369Tiger Direct *VS 4c  
370Tiger Traverse *HVS 5a  
371Tiger Groove *HS 4a  
372Has She Been? *S 4a  
373Mompesson Rich Pickings *MVS 4c  
374Holly *HVS 5c  
375Willow *HVS 5c  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer kristian

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
been caving today down carlswark, with mate, and a young lad.. thanks to the low life dirty scum bag, the took a dump in the gin entrance. shame on you,surely there was else where to do it.and by the way you need to see a doctor. gross.. good caving trip though, all the way to the shaft an back..
robert oakton - 01/Apr/14
If you looking for a great place to climb, classic problems with inspirational lines, good footholds and well maintained handholds, with great moves and a stunning atmosphere and surroundings. then DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT ever got to Stoney Middleston!...Ever!
Liam Copley - 11/Feb/09
I once bet Brian Cropper I could solo Minus Ten a hundred times in a day, we got to 35 and Brian got bored so he paid up on the bet :-)
Al Evans - 30/Jul/07