Climbs 376
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces W

Mark on the short sharp crux of Little Plumb (pitch one) © Wood for Trees

Crag features

A series of impressive buttress up to 50m high offering almost exclusively traditional routes at mainly VS and above on good rock. One of the original forcing grounds of hard limestone climbing, now sadly neglected, and therefore seldom busy. Many superb climbs, although some classics are polished. Sheltered and quick drying. Too many superb routes to choose from, but of National worth are the multi-pitch traverse of Alcasan (E2) and Our Father (E4 6b,5a). Home of some of the hardest and most polished bouldering in the Peak.

Approach notes

A true roadside crag! From a large layby on the A623 just between the village of Stoney Middleton and the crag cross the road (1 min).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
been caving today down carlswark, with mate, and a young lad.. thanks to the low life dirty scum bag, the took a dump in the gin entrance. shame on you,surely there was else where to do it.and by the way you need to see a doctor. gross.. good caving trip though, all the way to the shaft an back..
robert oakton - 01/Apr/14
If you looking for a great place to climb, classic problems with inspirational lines, good footholds and well maintained handholds, with great moves and a stunning atmosphere and surroundings. then DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT ever got to Stoney Middleston!...Ever!
Liam Copley - 11/Feb/09
I once bet Brian Cropper I could solo Minus Ten a hundred times in a day, we got to 35 and Brian got bored so he paid up on the bet :-)
Al Evans - 30/Jul/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Electric quarry 
2Roraima
-
HVS 5b 3
3The Disillusioned Brew Machine
-
E3 5c 2
4Helmut SchmittE6 6b **5
5Cabbage CrackE4 6a **100
6JasperE3 6a **89
7The Heat
-
E5 6a 1
8OliverE4 6a ***57
9Millionaire TouchE4 6b ***35
10X CalibreE6 6b  
11IcarusE1 5b 2
12Brown CornerHVS 5a *46
13One 'ard Move
-
E6 6b 1
14DamoclesE3 5b *15
15Golden BoyE5 6b *1
16Emotional RescueE5 6b *8
17John PeelE2 5b *43
18Creeping FleshE4 6a  
 The Slurper 
20AcrophobiaHVS 5a *25
21J ArthurE1 5b 5
22Easy ActionE1 5b **44
23The SlurperE1 5c *36
24Gollyberry
-
E2 5c 8
25Lard Wall
-
E5 6a 1
26Psychopath
-
E1 5b 3
27Daedalus
-
E4 6a 1
28Vicky
-
E1 5b  
 Triglyph/Mortuary buttress 
30Drainpipe GrooveVS 4c 15
31Speed KillsE4 6a *5
32The MorgueE3 5c *16
33Mortuary StepsHVS 5b **102
34Hart AttackE5 6b  
35Cardiac ArrestE4 6a *7
36Beta BlockerE5 6b  
37Little CapucinHVS 5a *41
38How the HellVS 4c *53
39What the HellVS 4b *98
40Hell Hath No FuryE2 5b  
41Morning CrackS 4a *54
42Hellish morningVS 4b ** 
 Ivy Buttress 
44NazeVD 8
45Child's AreteHVS 5a 5
46Emanon
-
HS 6
 Tom's Roof 
48Tom's Original
-
f7A *194
49Tom's Original Reverse *f7A 28
50Tom's Original There and Back *f7A+ **21
51The Womb into Tom's Original *f7A **12
52The Womb
-
f6C *23
53Punker Bunker
-
f7A+ 61
54Armbanditf7C 1
55Power Allowance
-
f7B **45
56Swing Thing
-
f7B *30
57Quintesscence
-
f8A * 
58Pete's Power Pull
-
f7C **4
59Power trip *f7C 5
60You've Pulled *f8A 3
61Rack and Ruin
-
f7C 3
62Jerryatricks
-
f7C+ *3
63Jerry's Problem
-
f7C+ 1
64PDB problem 12f7C 1
65Tom's Roof problem 13 (PDB)f7C 2
66Figure of 8
-
f7B+ *20
67Let's go round again (fig 8 reverse) *f7C 6
68Figure of 16 *f7C 7
 Prayer Wheel Wall 
70OmletteE3 6a 7
71OmE1 5b *200
72Shit WallE2 5b 45
73ManiE1 5b *310
74PadmeHVS 5a **472
 Pearly Gates Buttress 
76looking Through Gary Gibson's EyesHVS 5a 10
77AsparagusVS 4b *207
78RobinE2 5b 11
79Cock-a-leekie WallE2 5c 130
80Vinegar FlyHVS 5a 4
81MinestroneHVS 4c *58
82Rosehip WineHS 4a *79
83Jungle Arete
-
VD 6
84PollyannaE1 5b 14
85JuggernautVS 5a 10
86HorizonS 4a 19
87Lost HorizonS 4a 31
88Aux BicyclettesVD 31
89Fingal's FlueHS 3c 14
90Fingal's CaveHVS 5a 9
91The GroperVS 4c,4b 6
92The White KnightVD 52
93Ben
-
E2 5c 4
94Gabriel and the Pearly GatesVS 4c ***516
95SolitaireE1 5b *83
96St. PeterE1 5c *269
97St. PaulE3 5c 14
98ParachuteVS 4b *222
99Roman CandleVS 4c 7
100Au GratinHS 4a 49
101Didgery DoodahE1 5a  
 Minus Ten Wall 
103Cracked WallV0- 36
104Flat WallV0 36
105Triangle Link-upV0 28
106Minus WallE1 5b 16
107Minus Wall StartV0 *35
108Minus Wall RightV3 *33
109Minus TenHVS 5a *272
110Great EscapeE1 5b 4
111Jam SandwichE5 6b 10
112Traffic JamE5 6b **81
113Double ScotchE2 5b *283
114CointreauHVS 5a *113
115The Flashing Fisher
-
E3 5c 13
116Pygmies Walk TallE1 5b *25
117ThrutchHVS 5a 25
118Flat LightE2 5c 1
119Quent's Dyno
-
f7B **60
120Not Ned's Problemf7B+ 31
121Harris Problemf7B+ 3
122White Ladder
-
f7C 19
123White Ladder (sit start)f7C 7
124The JABP
-
f7C **2
125Sharp Pocketf7B+ 1
126Little Warm-upV2 22
127Egyptian Feetf7A+ 67
128Egyptian VariationV7 *8
129Easy dynof6A 29
130One Arm Bandit
-
f7B *44
131Kirton Dyno
-
f7A+ *80
132Sean's Problem
-
f7B+ *21
133Sean's Problem Variantf7C 2
134Zippy's Sidepull
-
f7B+ *29
135Guidebook Elevenf6C+ 110
136Slopey Sidepullf7A+ **20
137Lucian's Undercut
-
f7A **73
138Zippy's Problem
-
f7B+ **17
139Zippy's Problem variant 1f7B+ *6
140Zippy's Problem variant 2f7C **8
141Pinch 2
-
f7C+ ***2
142Nasty Traverse
-
f7C+ *4
143The Double Double
-
f6C *107
144Young American
-
f7A+ **84
145Megatron
-
f7A+ *28
146Megatron Turbof7A+ 3
147The Upper Break
-
f5 *36
148The Middle Break
-
f6B *130
149The Wall Traverse
-
f6C+ *28
150George's wall Dynof7B 2
151George's wall dyno (sloper)f7C 3
152Slopey Sidepull Variantf7B *5
153Zeno's Sidepullf7C 4
 Carl's Walk 
155Tiger CrackE2 6a *2
156CostaBravaHVS 5b 4
157Carl's Wark Traverse
-
f7B *** 
158Little Crack
-
VS 5a 11
159SqueekE5 6a  
160More Air than Chocolate
-
f6A *7
161Flake and PillarE1 5b 31
162Au Revoir Monodoigtf7A+  
163Bubbles Start
-
f6B+ *16
164Bubbles WallE4 6b **102
165Bubbles OriginalE3 5c *22
166Black KabulE5 6b *10
167Carls Wark CrackE2 5c **179
168ScarabE6 6b **5
169All Systems GoE6 6c  
170Green CrackVS 4c *83
171SoapsudsE3 6a *36
172Shaky Crack
-
VD 9
173Soapsuds Traverse
-
f6B+ 16
 Medusa Bay 
175Hammer
-
VS 4b 1
176Whet
-
E2 5b 1
177SickleE1 5a *31
178Boat Pushers WallE3 5c *33
179Big BorisE5 6a 2
180Wee DorisE4 5c ***217
181MedusaE1 5b **204
182Gesemini originalE1 5b 14
183Gesemini DirectE3 5c *34
184PickpocketE4 6a **77
 Bitterfingers Bay 
186Frisco BayVS 4c *48
187Bay of Pigs
-
E1 5b 5
188Golden GateHVS 5a **124
189HingesE1 5b, 5a 4
190Bingo WallE2 5b **146
191Kelly's EyeE4 6a *41
192The year of living Dangerously
-
E4 5c 1
193Mind BlindE6 6b 2
194The Rainbow Woman
-
E3 6a 1
195WallopHS 4b *25
196Flavour of the Month
-
E6 6b *1
197My Personal Pleasure
-
E6 6c 1
198BelindaE4 6a *1
199FrothVS 4c **380
200Mottled Wall
-
E4 5c 5
201Mingtled/Mottled WallE4 5c *11
202Dead Banana CrackE1 5c ***396
203Top Banana
-
E3 6a 2
204BitterfingersE4 6a ***157
205The Great LevellerE6 6b  
206OkraE4 6a *4
207Fe Fi Fo FumHVS 5a *257
208BeanstalkE3 5c 5
209AugeanVS 4c *60
210HerculesE4 5c  
211ivy Grotto DirectHVS 5a 3
212Anything CornerVS 4b 7
213MineshaftM *28
214Shellfish Shuffle
-
S 3
215TantalusHS 4b 9
 Tower of Babel 
217Babylon Bypass
-
HVS 4b 4
218Glory RoadVS 4b *168
219SinVS 4c **249
220Lucy SimmonsE2 5b *81
221The Tower of Babel
-
E1 5b 28
222RevulvaHVS 5b 2
 Windy Buttress 
224ChantrelleE1 5a 9
225Black Teddy
-
E2 5c 4
226InquisitorE2 5c *107
227Dies IraeE2 5c ***198
228Stuff the TurkeyE4 6b 3
229CirceE5 6b **36
230GasperaE5 6b *2
231Swine VesicularE6 6b  
232KinkE5 6b **12
233Kinky7c 1
234KelloggE5 6b *20
235Nice in NiceE5 6b *2
236Kingdom ComeE5 6b *15
237Special KE4 6a *13
238The Flakes DirectE2 5c ***97
239The FlakesE2 5c **63
240ArmageddonE2 5c ***189
241WindhoverE2 5c **254
242Transmaiacon
-
E5 6a 2
243Choss
-
HVS 5b 20
244Scoop WallE2 5c ***337
245Our FatherE4 6b ***97
246MenopauseE5 6b **11
247MemnonE2 5c *46
248Memnon Variation
-
E3 5c 12
249Racial Harmony
-
E4 5c *1
250AuroraVS 4c **292
251HysterectomyE5 6c  
252Aurora ArÍteHVS 5a **45
253Aurora Arete/Tiger TrotHVS 5a **119
254Tiger TrotVD *36
255AlcasanE2 5c ***120
256Immortal Combat6b+ 2
 Garage Buttress 
258Fluffy Roo Meets the Woodentops
-
6b+ 1
259Ticket to the Underworld
-
E4 4a,5c 1
260Compositae GrooveHVS 5a *52
261Trigger7a+ 3
262Two Ton Ted from Teddington6b+ 5
263Knockin' on the Bread Man's Door6c 4
264Bohemian6b+ *15
265Empty Cartridge6b+ *21
266Unloaded6c 12
267Reloaded6b+ *33
268I Hate You7a+ *35
269MatricideE4 6a 10
270MatrixE3 5b 2
271Four Minute TilerE5 6b *5
272Alex It was Nothing ReallyE5 6b 1
273La Belle et la BeteE6 6b *4
274Colonel BogeyE4 6a **28
275HeliconE3 5c **61
276RippemoffE1 5c *75
277ChewemoffE4 6a *9
278GerremdownE3 4c,5b **5
279Turf 'em Off6b+ 8
280Glue 'em Back7b 3
281There Maybe Rubble Ahead7b 1
282Rubble Rouser7c 1
283Golden Delicious8a * 
284Dig Deeper8a *3
285Dig Deep For Victory7c 10
286Ozone Bozo7c *25
287Tollbar8a+ 8
288Double the Rubble7c *3
289Trouble with Rubble7c+ *7
290The Big Apple8a *20
291The Lover's Leap7b+ *2
292Easy SkankingE6 6b  
293Little Plum (pitch 1)7c+ **21
294Little Plum8a ***15
295Big NoseE4 6a 2
296Ming the Merciless8a+ *1
297The King of Ming (Redundant)7b+ **59
298Virgin King7b+ **51
299Virgin on the LooseE6 6b  
300Smoothlands6a 40
301Lowerlands5c 26
302FlycatcherE5 6a 1
303Lowlands6c+ *65
304Dreamcatcher6b+ *139
305Creamsnatcher6b *134
306Gulp and Go6b+ 29
307EvasorVS 4c **116
308Can't Stop Now6c 27
309Redeployed6c+ *9
310Up Yours7a *11
311Four Thousand6b+ *87
312Two Thousand6a+ 47
313Onwards and Upwards6a 82
314Nowt about Change6b 58
315End, Stop, Finale6b 28
316The Last Stop5b 23
317AtroposHVS 5a *5
318AquilineHVS 5b *16
319PendulumHVS 5a **66
320My Girdle is Killing Me
-
E4 6a, 5b 1
 Other Bouldering 
322Rockfax Problem 21(Minus Ten - Right)V1 17
323Rockfax Problem 22 (Minus Ten - Right)
-
V2 20
324Rockfax Problem 23 (Minus Ten - Right)
-
V4 *10
325Rockfax Problem 1 (Minus Ten - Central)
-
f6B 9
326Rockfax Problem 20 (Minus Ten - Central)
-
f6A 8
327Rockfax Problem 8 (Minus Ten - Central) (Stoney Middleton)
-
f6C+ 6
328Rockfax Problem 1 (George's Wall) (Stoney Middleton)
-
f6B+ 6
329Odd Thingf7B 9
330Arete left handf6A *5
331Arete right handf6C+ *1
332Problem 6f7A 20
333Problem 13 (Left hand Side)f7A 6
334Triangular Pocketsf6B+ **11
 unknown/not in guide/Incorrect, entries 
336RF, Problem 5f7A **1
337Figure of 24
-
f7C 1
338The groove (Georges wall)f6A+ 7
339Rockfax problem 24 (minus 10 right)f6C 5
340Problem 7f7A+ 8
341Triangle pocket (ukb guide problem 6)f7A 6
342Problem 8f7A+ 3
343Pdb problem 1 centralf7B+ *1
344Triangle Underclingf6C *1
345Diamond Pinchf7C 5
346Blockhead's Aretef7A+ 6
347Crimp Shrimpf6B **6
348UKB topo 11. Minus 10 left.f7A 3
349Left (UKB online topo)f6C 1
350Gav's Problemf7B 2
351Problem 11 UKB topo Minus Ten leftf6B+ 4
352Zippy's Sidepull Variant 1f7C 1
353Jimmyatricksf7C+ 1
354Sign My NameE2 5c 6
355The Brighton LineE1 5b,5b *2
356Tony's Bloody FingerE1 5b,5b 2
357MonosodE2 5c * 
358Lesley AnnE3 6a 1
359Canine of BrineE2 5b 1
360Master of TidesVS 4b 2
361End of the LineE1 5b 1
362Tower of Babel indirectE1 5b  
363Coffee HighV4 7
364Prefab Brick Cake
-
V1 *10
365Face Off
-
V4 16
366Facade
-
V5 10
367The Power Pinchf7C+ 1
368The Gherkinf7A ***1
369Not Zippy's Variant 3f6C *1
370Minus Wall Traverse
-
f6B+ 2
371Minus Wall Traverse (rockfax 2014 problem 6)f6B+ 6
372Soapsuds LeftV1 3
373soapsuds CrackV0+ 3
374Soapsuds RightV3 1
375Tiger DirectVS 4c 1
376Tiger TraverseHVS 5a  
377Tiger GrooveHS 4a  
378Has She Been?S 4a 1
379Mompesson Rich PickingsMVS 4c  
380HollyHVS 5c  
381WillowHVS 5c  
382Problem 12f6B 1
383Haven't Got a CluedoE2 5c *2
384Moss Side *E2 5b 1
385Choss Side *HVS 4c 1
386Harris Problem 3 *
-
f7B+ 1
387Blockheads Arete non eliminate *V0+ 1
388Power Allowance Check *f7B 3
389Adios Tango E4 6a **2
390Phil 's phigure of 8 (minus ten) *f6C 1
391Phil 's phigure of 16 (minus ten) *f6C+  
392Phil 's phigure of 24 (minus ten) *f6C+  
393Tuba Mirum *
-
E5 6b *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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