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These details were last updated on 10/Aug/2010

Stoney Middleton

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 321 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A series of impressive buttress up to 50m high offering almost exclusively traditional routes at mainly VS and above on good rock. One of the original forcing grounds of hard limestone climbing, now sadly neglected, and therefore seldom busy. Many superb climbs, although some classics are polished. Sheltered and quick drying. Too many superb routes to choose from, but of National worth are the multi-pitch traverse of Alcasan (E2) and Our Father (E4 6b,5a). Home of some of the hardest and most polished bouldering in the Peak.

Weather forecast

 Today  Tue  Wed  Thu  Fri 

0.5mm rain
Sunny periods
12 °C
32 kph

1.6mm rain
Mainly cloudy
12 °C
24 kph

4.1mm rain
Cloudy
10 °C
17 kph

1.9mm rain
Mainly cloudy
13 °C
17 kph

2.8mm rain
Sun
13 °C
9 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), Peak Limestone - Stoney (1987),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 ELECTRIC QUARRY  
2RoraimaHVS 5b 3
3Easy ActionE1 5b *26
4The Disillusioned Brew MachineE3 5c 1
5AcrophobiaHVS 5a *14
6J ArthurE1 5b *4
7The SlurperE1 5c *29
8Helmut SchmittE6 6b **5
9Cabbage CrackE4 6a **62
10JasperE3 6a **69
11The HeatE5 6a 1
12OliverE4 6a ***46
13Millionaire TouchE4 6b **25
14IcarusE1 5b 2
15Brown CornerHVS 5a 43
16One 'ard MoveE6 6b  
17DamoclesE3 5b *10
18Golden BoyE5 6b *1
19Emotional RescueE5 6a *6
20John PeelE2 5b *30
21GollyberryE2 5c 8
22Lard WallE5 6a 1
23PsychopathE1 5b 2
24DaedalusE4 6a 1
25VickyE1 5b  
 TRIGLYPH/MORTUARY BUTTRESS  
27Drainpipe GrooveVS 4c *12
28Speed KillsE4 6a *5
29The MorgueE3 5c *13
30Mortuary StepsHVS 5b **78
31Hart AttackE5 6b  
32Cardiac ArrestE4 6a *4
33Little CapucinHVS 5a 24
34How the HellVS 4c *36
35What the HellVS 4b *78
36Hell Hath No FuryE2 5b  
37Morning CrackS *48
38Hellish morningVS 4b ** 
 IVY BUTTRESS  
40NazeVD 6
41Child's AreteHVS 5a 3
42EmanonHS 4
 TOM'S ROOF  
44Tom's Originalf7A *146
45Tom's Original Reverse *f7A 12
46Tom's Original There and Back *f7A+ **7
47The Womb into Tom's Original *f7A **3
48The Wombf6C *12
49Punker Bunkerf7A+ 45
50Armbanditf7C 1
51Power Allowancef7B **31
52Swing Thingf7B *23
53Quintesscencef8A * 
54Pete's Power Pullf7C **3
55Power trip *f7C 2
56You've Pulled *f8A 2
57Rack and Ruinf7C 1
58Jerryatricksf7C+ *1
59Jerry's Problemf7C+ 1
60PDB problem 12f7C  
61Tom's Roof problem 13 (PDB)f7C 1
62Figure of 8f7B+ *14
63Let's go round again (fig 8 reverse) *f7C 3
64Figure of 16 *f7C 4
 PRAYER WHEEL WALL  
66OmletteE3 6a 5
67OmE2 5b 148
68Shit WallE2 5b 42
69ManiE1 5b *225
70PadmeHVS 5a *339
 PEARLY GATES BUTTRESS  
72looking Through Gary Gibson's EyesHVS 5a 6
73AsparagusVS 4b 139
74RobinE2 5b 9
75Cock-a-leekie WallE2 5c 94
76Vinegar FlyVS 5a 2
77MinestroneHVS 5a 36
78Rosehip WineHS 4a 50
79Jungle AreteVD 6
80PollyannaE1 5b 12
81JuggernautVS 5a 9
82HorizonVD 16
83Lost HorizonVD 23
84Aux BicyclettesVD 20
85Fingal's FlueVS 4c 7
86Fingal's CaveVS 5a 3
87The GroperVS 4c,4b 3
88The White KnightVD 42
89BenE2 5c 3
90Gabriel and the Pearly GatesVS 4c **345
91SolitaireE1 5b 71
92St. PeterE1 5c *215
93St. PaulE3 5c 13
94ParachuteVS 4a *169
95Roman CandleVS 4c 2
96Au GratinHS 4a 33
97Didgery DoodahE1 5a  
 MINUS TEN WALL  
99Cracked WallV0- 13
100Flat WallV0 5a 13
101Triangle Link-upV0 5a 10
102Minus WallHVS 5b 11
103Minus Wall StartV0 *11
104Minus Wall RightV3 6a *11
105Minus TenHVS 5a *193
106Great EscapeE1 5b 3
107Jam SandwichE5 6b 7
108Traffic JamE5 6b **52
109Double ScotchE2 5b *214
110CointreauHVS 5a 84
111The Flashing FisherE3 5c 11
112Pygmies Walk TallHVS 5b *12
113ThrutchHVS 5a 19
114Quent's Dynof7B **39
115Not Ned's Problemf7B+ 20
116Harris Problemf7B+ 2
117White Ladderf7C 6
118White Ladder (sit start) *f7C 4
119The JABPf7C **1
120Sharp Pocketf7B+  
121Little Warm-upV2 9
122Egyptian Feetf7A+ 41
123Egyptian VariationV7 *3
124Easy dynof6A 6
125One Arm Banditf7B *38
126Kirton Dynof7A+ *62
127Sean's Problemf7B+ *15
128Sean's Problem Variant *f7C 1
129Zippy's Sidepullf7B+ *22
130Guidebook Elevenf6C+ 74
131Slopey Sidepullf7A+ **14
132Lucian's Undercutf7A **54
133Zippy's Problemf7B+ **13
134Zippy's Problem variant 1f7B+ *5
135Zippy's Problem variant 2f7C **5
136Pinch 2f7C+ ***1
137Nasty Traversef7C+ *3
138The Double Doublef6C *75
139Young Americanf7A+ **65
140Megatronf7A+ *23
141Megatron Turbof7A+ 2
142The Upper Breakf5 *19
143The Middle Breakf6B *80
144The Wall Traversef6C+ *14
145George's wall Dynof7B  
146George's wall dyno (sloper)f7C 3
147Slopey Sidepull Variant *f7B *4
148Zeno's Sidepull *f7C 1
 CARL'S WALK  
150Tiger Crack *E2 6a *1
151CostaBravaHVS 5b 3
152Carl's Wark Traversef7B *** 
153Little CrackVS 5a 8
154SqueekE5 6a  
155More Air than Chocolatef6A *5
156Flake and PillarE1 5b 25
157Au Revoir Monodoigtf7B  
158Bubbles Startf6B+ *9
159Bubbles WallE4 6b **80
160Bubbles OriginalE3 5c *3
161Black KabulE5 6b *6
162Carls Wark CrackE2 5c **133
163ScarabE6 6b **3
164All Systems GoE6 6c  
165Green CrackVS 4c 66
166SoapsudsE3 6a *26
167Shaky CrackVD 6
168Soapsuds Traversef6B+ 7
 Climb nameGradex
 WEE DORIS BAY  
170HammerVS 4b 1
171WhetE2 5b 1
172SickleE1 5a *25
173Boat Pushers WallE3 5c *28
174Big BorisE5 6a 1
175Wee DorisE4 5c ***165
176MedusaE1 5b **148
177Gesemini originalE1 5b 8
178Gesemini DirectE3 6a *21
179PickpocketE4 6a *57
 BITTERFINGERS BAY  
181Frisco BayVS 4c *38
182Bay of PigsE1 5b 2
183Golden GateHVS 5a *86
184HingesE1 5b, 5a 1
185Bingo WallE2 5b *108
186Kelly's EyeE4 6a *28
187The year of living DangerouslyE4 5c 1
188Mind-blindE5 6b 1
189The Rainbow WomanE3 6a 1
190WallopHS 4b 18
191Flavour of the MonthE6 6b *1
192My Personal PleasureE6 6c 1
193BelindaE4 6a *1
194FrothVS 4c **291
195Mottled WallE4 5c 1
196Mingtled/Mottled WallE4 5c 5
197Dead Banana CrackE1 5c **283
198Top BananaE3 6a 1
199BitterfingersE4 6a ***118
200The Great LevellerE6 6b  
201OkraE4 6a *4
202Fe Fi Fo FumHVS 5a 202
203BeanstalkE3 5c 2
204AugeanVS 4c 46
205HerculesE4 5c * 
206ivy Grotto DirectHVS 5a 2
207Anything CornerVS 4b 5
208MineshaftD 22
209Shellfish ShuffleS 3
210TantalusHS 4b *7
 TOWER OF BABEL  
212Babylon BypassHVS 4b 3
213Glory RoadVS 4b *142
214SinVS 4c **184
215Lucy SimmonsE2 5b *71
216The Tower of BabelE1 5b 20
217RevulvaHVS 5b 1
 WINDY BUTTRESS  
219ChantrelleE1 5a 6
220Black TeddyE2 5c 4
221InquisitorE1 5c *75
222Dies IraeE2 5c **143
223Stuff the TurkeyE4 6b 3
224CirceE5 6b *27
225GasperaE5 6b *1
226Swine VesicularE6 6b  
227KinkE5 6b *9
228Kinky7c 1
229KelloggE5 6b **13
230Nice in NiceE5 6b *2
231Kingdom ComeE5 6b *10
232Special KE4 6a *11
233The Flakes DirectE2 5c **71
234The FlakesE2 5c ***49
235ArmageddonE2 5c **132
236WindhoverE2 5c **193
237TransmaiaconE5 6a 2
238ChossHVS 5b 17
239Scoop WallE2 5c ***251
240Our FatherE4 6b **77
241MenopauseE5 6b *9
242MemnonE2 5c *35
243Memnon VariationE3 5c 11
244Racial HarmonyE4 5c *1
245AuroraVS 4c *200
246HysterectomyE5 6c  
247Aurora ArêteHVS 4c,5a *17
248Aurora Arete/Tiger TrotHVS 5a **111
249Tiger TrotVD *26
250AlcasanE2 5c **79
 GARAGE BUTTRESS  
252Ticket to the UnderworldE4 4a,5c 1
253Compositae GrooveHVS 5a *43
254Trigger *7a+ 3
255Two Ton Ted from Teddington *6c 5
256Knockim' on the Bread Man's Door *6c+ *3
257Bohemian *6c *8
258Empty Cartridge *6c *9
259Unloaded *6c+ *5
260Reloaded *6c **13
261I Hate You7a+ *9
262Matricide6b+ 2
263MatrixE3 5b 1
264Four Minute TilerE5 6b **3
265Alex It was Nothing ReallyE5 6b 1
266La Belle et la BeteE5 6b *4
267Colonel BogeyE4 6a **20
268HeliconE3 5c *40
269RippemoffE1 5c *54
270ChewemoffE4 6a *8
271GerremdownE3 4c,5b **3
272Dig Deeper8a *1
273Dig Deep For Victory7c 6
274Ozone Bozo7c *9
275Unnamed8a+ **1
276Trouble with Rubble8a *1
277The Big Apple8a *8
278The Lover,s Leap7b+ *2
279Easy SkankingE6 6b,6a * 
280Little Plum (pitch 1)7c+ **9
281Little Plum8a ***11
282Big NoseE4 6a 1
283Ming the Merciless8a+ 1
284The King of Ming7b+ **35
285Virgin on the LooseE6 6b  
286FlycatcherE5 6a 1
287Lowlands6c+ 12
288Dreamcatcher6c *30
289Creamsnatcher6b 38
290EvasorVS 4c *99
291Unnamed 6c+6c+ *6
292Four Thousand (full)6c 14
293Four Thousand (short)6a+ 10
294Onwards and Upwards6a+ 13
295AtroposHVS 5a *1
296AquilineHVS 5b 15
297PendulumHVS 5a *55
 OTHER BOULDERING  
299Rockfax Problem 21(Minus Ten - Right)V1 5c 15
300Rockfax Problem 22 (Minus Ten - Right)V2 6a 18
301Rockfax Problem 23 (Minus Ten - Right)V4 6b *9
302Rockfax Problem 1 (Minus Ten - Central)f6B 7
303Rockfax Problem 20 (Minus Ten - Central)f6A 7
304Rockfax Problem 8 (Minus Ten - Central) (Stoney Middleton)f6C+ 5
305Rockfax Problem 1 (George's Wall) (Stoney Middleton)f6B+ 6
306Odd Thingf7B 8
307Arete left handf6A *5
308Arete right handf6C+ *1
309Problem 6f7A 17
310Problem 13 (Left hand Side)f7A 5
311Triangular Pocketsf6B+ **9
 UNKNOWN/NOT IN GUIDE/INCORRECT, ENTRIES  
313RF, Problem 5 *f7A **1
314Figure of 24 *f7C 1
315The groove (Georges wall) *f6A+ 4
316Rockfax problem 24 (minus 10 right) *f6C 5
317Problem 7 *f7A+ 5
318Triangle pocket (ukb guide problem 6) *f7A 4
319Problem 8 *f7A+ 1
320Pdb problem 1 central *f7B+ *1
321Triangle Undercling *f6C *1
322Diamond Pinch *f7C 1
323Blockhead's Arete *f7A+ 3
324Crimp Shrimp *f6B **3
325UKB topo 11. Minus 10 left. *f7A 1
326Left (UKB online topo) *f6C 1
327Gav's Problem *f7B 1
328Problem 11 UKB topo Minus Ten left *f6B+ 2
329Zippy's Sidepull Variant 1 *f7C 1
330Jimmyatricks *f7C+ 1
331Sign My Name *E2 5c 1
332The Brighton Line *E1 5b,5b *1
333Tony's Bloody Finger *E1 5b,5b 1
334Monosod *E2 5c * 
335My Girdle is Killing Me *E4 6a, 5b 1
336Nowt about Change *6b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Access notes
A true roadside crag! From a large layby on the A623 just between the village of Stoney Middleton and the crag cross the road (1 min).
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer kristian

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
been caving today down carlswark, with mate, and a young lad.. thanks to the low life dirty scum bag, the took a dump in the gin entrance. shame on you,surely there was else where to do it.and by the way you need to see a doctor. gross.. good caving trip though, all the way to the shaft an back..
robert oakton - 01/Apr/14

If you looking for a great place to climb, classic problems with inspirational lines, good footholds and well maintained handholds, with great moves and a stunning atmosphere and surroundings. then DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT ever got to Stoney Middleston!...Ever!
Liam Copley - 11/Feb/09

I once bet Brian Cropper I could solo Minus Ten a hundred times in a day, we got to 35 and Brian got bored so he paid up on the bet :-)
Al Evans - 30/Jul/07