Stoney Middleton

Climbs 367 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features

A series of impressive buttress up to 50m high offering almost exclusively traditional routes at mainly VS and above on good rock. One of the original forcing grounds of hard limestone climbing, now sadly neglected, and therefore seldom busy. Many superb climbs, although some classics are polished. Sheltered and quick drying. Too many superb routes to choose from, but of National worth are the multi-pitch traverse of Alcasan (E2) and Our Father (E4 6b,5a). Home of some of the hardest and most polished bouldering in the Peak.

Approach notes

A true roadside crag! From a large layby on the A623 just between the village of Stoney Middleton and the crag cross the road (1 min).

Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone North (2015), Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), Peak Limestone - Stoney (1987),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 ELECTRIC QUARRY  
2RoraimaHVS 5b 3
3The Disillusioned Brew MachineE3 5c 2
4Helmut SchmittE6 6b **5
5Cabbage CrackE4 6a **75
6JasperE3 6a **84
7The HeatE5 6a 1
8OliverE4 6a ***56
9Millionaire TouchE4 6b ***34
10X CalibreE6 6b  
11IcarusE1 5b 2
12Brown CornerHVS 5a *45
13One 'ard MoveE6 6b 1
14DamoclesE3 5b *13
15Golden BoyE5 6b *1
16Emotional RescueE5 6b *6
17John PeelE2 5b *39
18Creeping FleshE4 6a  
 THE SLURPER  
20AcrophobiaHVS 5a *17
21J ArthurE1 5b 4
22Easy ActionE1 5b **39
23The SlurperE1 5c *34
24GollyberryE2 5c 8
25Lard WallE5 6a 1
26PsychopathE1 5b 2
27DaedalusE4 6a 1
28VickyE1 5b  
 TRIGLYPH/MORTUARY BUTTRESS  
30Drainpipe GrooveVS 4c 16
31Speed KillsE4 6a *5
32The MorgueE3 5c *16
33Mortuary StepsHVS 5b **94
34Hart AttackE5 6b  
35Cardiac ArrestE4 6a *7
36Beta BlockerE5 6b  
37Little CapucinHVS 5a *41
38How the HellVS 4c *48
39What the HellVS 4b *93
40Hell Hath No FuryE2 5b  
41Morning CrackS 4a *51
42Hellish morningVS 4b ** 
 IVY BUTTRESS  
44NazeVD 7
45Child's AreteHVS 5a 5
46EmanonHS 6
 TOM'S ROOF  
48Tom's Originalf7A *178
49Tom's Original Reverse *f7A 25
50Tom's Original There and Back *f7A+ **18
51The Womb into Tom's Original *f7A **10
52The Wombf6C *20
53Punker Bunkerf7A+ 56
54Armbanditf7C 1
55Power Allowancef7B **40
56Swing Thingf7B *26
57Quintesscencef8A * 
58Pete's Power Pullf7C **4
59Power trip *f7C 5
60You've Pulled *f8A 3
61Rack and Ruinf7C 3
62Jerryatricksf7C+ *3
63Jerry's Problemf7C+ 1
64PDB problem 12f7C  
65Tom's Roof problem 13 (PDB)f7C 2
66Figure of 8f7B+ *18
67Let's go round again (fig 8 reverse) *f7C 5
68Figure of 16 *f7C 5
 PRAYER WHEEL WALL  
70OmletteE3 6a 7
71OmE1 5b *180
72Shit WallE2 5b 43
73ManiE1 5b *277
74PadmeHVS 5a **415
 PEARLY GATES BUTTRESS  
76looking Through Gary Gibson's EyesHVS 5a 8
77AsparagusVS 4b *175
78RobinE2 5b 11
79Cock-a-leekie WallE2 5c 115
80Vinegar FlyHVS 5a 4
81MinestroneHVS 4c *52
82Rosehip WineHS 4a *69
83Jungle AreteVD 6
84PollyannaE1 5b 12
85JuggernautVS 5a 10
86HorizonS 4a 18
87Lost HorizonS 4a 30
88Aux BicyclettesVD 28
89Fingal's FlueHS 3c 14
90Fingal's CaveHVS 5a 7
91The GroperVS 4c,4b 5
92The White KnightVD 49
93BenE2 5c 4
94Gabriel and the Pearly GatesVS 4c ***454
95SolitaireE1 5b *78
96St. PeterE1 5c *247
97St. PaulE3 5c 14
98ParachuteVS 4b *199
99Roman CandleVS 4c 6
100Au GratinHS 4a 45
101Didgery DoodahE1 5a  
 MINUS TEN WALL  
103Cracked WallV0- 28
104Flat WallV0 5a 28
105Triangle Link-upV0 5a 23
106Minus WallE1 5b 14
107Minus Wall StartV0 *27
108Minus Wall RightV3 6a *25
109Minus TenHVS 5a *248
110Great EscapeE1 5b 4
111Jam SandwichE5 6b 10
112Traffic JamE5 6b **75
113Double ScotchE2 5b *264
114CointreauHVS 5a *101
115The Flashing FisherE3 5c 13
116Pygmies Walk TallE1 5b *20
117ThrutchHVS 5a 22
118Flat LightE2 5c  
119Quent's Dynof7B **55
120Not Ned's Problemf7B+ 25
121Harris Problemf7B+ 3
122White Ladderf7C 9
123White Ladder (sit start)f7C 4
124The JABPf7C **1
125Sharp Pocketf7B+ 1
126Little Warm-upV2 17
127Egyptian Feetf7A+ 55
128Egyptian VariationV7 *6
129Easy dynof6A 21
130One Arm Banditf7B *43
131Kirton Dynof7A+ *77
132Sean's Problemf7B+ *19
133Sean's Problem Variantf7C 1
134Zippy's Sidepullf7B+ *29
135Guidebook Elevenf6C+ 102
136Slopey Sidepullf7A+ **18
137Lucian's Undercutf7A **67
138Zippy's Problemf7B+ **17
139Zippy's Problem variant 1f7B+ *6
140Zippy's Problem variant 2f7C **5
141Pinch 2f7C+ ***2
142Nasty Traversef7C+ *3
143The Double Doublef6C *96
144Young Americanf7A+ **80
145Megatronf7A+ *25
146Megatron Turbof7A+ 2
147The Upper Breakf5 *30
148The Middle Breakf6B *113
149The Wall Traversef6C+ *24
150George's wall Dynof7B 2
151George's wall dyno (sloper)f7C 3
152Slopey Sidepull Variantf7B *5
153Zeno's Sidepullf7C 3
 CARL'S WALK  
155Tiger CrackE2 6a *1
156CostaBravaHVS 5b 4
157Carl's Wark Traversef7B *** 
158Little CrackVS 5a 9
159SqueekE5 6a  
160More Air than Chocolatef6A *7
161Flake and PillarE1 5b 28
162Au Revoir Monodoigtf7A+  
163Bubbles Startf6B+ *15
164Bubbles WallE4 6b **94
165Bubbles OriginalE3 5c *16
166Black KabulE5 6b *10
167Carls Wark CrackE2 5c **164
168ScarabE6 6b **5
169All Systems GoE6 6c  
170Green CrackVS 4c *78
171SoapsudsE3 6a *33
172Shaky CrackVD 8
173Soapsuds Traversef6B+ 14
 MEDUSA BAY  
175HammerVS 4b 1
176WhetE2 5b 1
177SickleE1 5a *29
178Boat Pushers WallE3 5c *31
179Big BorisE5 6a 2
180Wee DorisE4 5c ***193
181MedusaE1 5b **173
182Gesemini originalE1 5b 11
183Gesemini DirectE3 5c *30
184PickpocketE4 6a **70
 BITTERFINGERS BAY  
186Frisco BayVS 4c *41
187Bay of PigsE1 5b 3
188Golden GateHVS 5a **107
189HingesE1 5b, 5a 4
190Bingo WallE2 5b **137
191Kelly's EyeE4 6a *38
192The year of living DangerouslyE4 5c 1
193Mind BlindE6 6b 2
194The Rainbow WomanE3 6a 1
195WallopHS 4b *22
196Flavour of the MonthE6 6b *1
197My Personal PleasureE6 6c 1
198BelindaE4 6a *1
199FrothVS 4c **354
200Mottled WallE4 5c 3
201Mingtled/Mottled WallE4 5c *9
202Dead Banana CrackE1 5c ***360
203Top BananaE3 6a 2
204BitterfingersE4 6a ***148
205The Great LevellerE6 6b  
206OkraE4 6a *4
207Fe Fi Fo FumHVS 5a *230
208BeanstalkE3 5c 4
209AugeanVS 4c *52
210HerculesE4 5c  
211ivy Grotto DirectHVS 5a 3
212Anything CornerVS 4b 6
213MineshaftM *25
214Shellfish ShuffleS 3
215TantalusHS 4b 8
 TOWER OF BABEL  
217Babylon BypassHVS 4b 3
218Glory RoadVS 4b *160
219SinVS 4c **218
220Lucy SimmonsE2 5b *75
221The Tower of BabelE1 5b 25
222RevulvaHVS 5b 2
 WINDY BUTTRESS  
224ChantrelleE1 5a 8
225Black TeddyE2 5c 4
226InquisitorE2 5c *95
227Dies IraeE2 5c ***182
228Stuff the TurkeyE4 6b 3
229CirceE5 6b **34
230GasperaE5 6b *2
231Swine VesicularE6 6b  
232KinkE5 6b **12
233Kinky7c 1
234KelloggE5 6b *19
235Nice in NiceE5 6b *2
236Kingdom ComeE5 6b *14
237Special KE4 6a *12
238The Flakes DirectE2 5c ***91
239The FlakesE2 5c **59
240ArmageddonE2 5c ***175
241WindhoverE2 5c **230
242TransmaiaconE5 6a 2
243ChossHVS 5b 19
244Scoop WallE2 5c ***319
245Our FatherE4 6b ***92
246MenopauseE5 6b **11
247MemnonE2 5c *42
248Memnon VariationE3 5c 12
249Racial HarmonyE4 5c *1
250AuroraVS 4c **259
251HysterectomyE5 6c  
252Aurora ArÍteHVS 5a **34
253Aurora Arete/Tiger TrotHVS 5a **119
254Tiger TrotVD *34
255AlcasanE2 5c ***109
256Immortal Combat6b+ 2
 GARAGE BUTTRESS  
258Ticket to the UnderworldE4 4a,5c 1
259Compositae GrooveHVS 5a *49
260Trigger7a+ 3
261Two Ton Ted from Teddington6b+ 5
262Knockin' on the Bread Man's Door6c 3
263Bohemian6b+ *11
264Empty Cartridge6b+ *15
265Unloaded6c 10
266Reloaded6b+ *27
267I Hate You7a+ *28
268MatricideE4 6a 8
269MatrixE3 5b 2
270Four Minute TilerE5 6b *5
271Alex It was Nothing ReallyE5 6b 1
272La Belle et la BeteE6 6b *4
273Colonel BogeyE4 6a **23
274HeliconE3 5c **52
275RippemoffE1 5c *69
276ChewemoffE4 6a *8
277GerremdownE3 4c,5b **4
278Turf 'em Off6b+ 6
279Glue 'em Back7b 3
280There Maybe Rubble Ahead7b 1
281Rubble Rouser7c 1
282Golden Delicious8a * 
283Dig Deeper8a *2
284Dig Deep For Victory7c 7
285Ozone Bozo7c *21
286Tollbar8a+ 2
287Trouble with Rubble7c+ *4
288The Big Apple8a *13
289The Lover's Leap7b+ *2
290Easy SkankingE6 6b  
291Little Plum (pitch 1)7c+ **13
292Little Plum8a ***15
293Big NoseE4 6a 2
294Ming the Merciless8a+ *1
295The King of Ming (Redundant)7b+ **55
296Virgin King7b+ **23
297Virgin on the LooseE6 6b  
298Smoothlands6a 23
299Lowerlands5c 18
300FlycatcherE5 6a 1
301Lowlands6c+ *44
302Dreamcatcher6b+ *95
303Creamsnatcher6b *95
304Gulp and Go6b+ 10
305EvasorVS 4c **110
306Can't Stop Now6c 16
307Redeployed6c+ *3
308Up Yours7a *4
309Four Thousand6b+ *57
310Two Thousand6a+ 30
311Onwards and Upwards6a 59
312Nowt about Change6b 34
313End, Stop, Finale6b 8
314THE LAST STOP5b 2
315AtroposHVS 5a *4
316AquilineHVS 5b *15
317PendulumHVS 5a **65
318My Girdle is Killing MeE4 6a, 5b 1
 OTHER BOULDERING  
320Rockfax Problem 21(Minus Ten - Right)V1 5c 17
321Rockfax Problem 22 (Minus Ten - Right)V2 6a 20
322Rockfax Problem 23 (Minus Ten - Right)V4 6b *10
323Rockfax Problem 1 (Minus Ten - Central)f6B 9
324Rockfax Problem 20 (Minus Ten - Central)f6A 8
325Rockfax Problem 8 (Minus Ten - Central) (Stoney Middleton)f6C+ 6
326Rockfax Problem 1 (George's Wall) (Stoney Middleton)f6B+ 6
327Odd Thingf7B 9
328Arete left handf6A *5
329Arete right handf6C+ *1
330Problem 6f7A 19
331Problem 13 (Left hand Side)f7A 6
332Triangular Pocketsf6B+ **10
 UNKNOWN/NOT IN GUIDE/INCORRECT, ENTRIES  
334RF, Problem 5f7A **1
335Figure of 24f7C 1
336The groove (Georges wall)f6A+ 7
337Rockfax problem 24 (minus 10 right)f6C 5
338Problem 7f7A+ 7
339Triangle pocket (ukb guide problem 6)f7A 6
340Problem 8f7A+ 3
341Pdb problem 1 centralf7B+ *1
342Triangle Underclingf6C *1
343Diamond Pinchf7C 5
344Blockhead's Aretef7A+ 6
345Crimp Shrimpf6B **6
346UKB topo 11. Minus 10 left.f7A 3
347Left (UKB online topo)f6C 1
348Gav's Problemf7B 2
349Problem 11 UKB topo Minus Ten leftf6B+ 4
350Zippy's Sidepull Variant 1f7C 1
351Jimmyatricksf7C+ 1
352Sign My NameE2 5c 4
353The Brighton LineE1 5b,5b *2
354Tony's Bloody FingerE1 5b,5b 2
355MonosodE2 5c * 
356Lesley AnnE3 6a 1
357Canine of BrineE2 5b 1
358Master of TidesVS 4b 1
359End of the LineE1 5b 1
360Tower of Babel indirectE1 5b  
361Coffee HighV4 6
362Prefab Brick CakeV1 *8
363Face OffV4 15
364FacadeV5 8
365The Power Pinchf7C+ 1
366The Gherkinf7A ***1
367Not Zippy's Variant 3f6C *1
368Minus Wall Traversef6B+ 1
369Minus Wall Traverse (rockfax 2014 problem 6)f6B+ 4
370Soapsuds LeftV1 5b 1
371soapsuds CrackV0+ 5a 1
372Soapsuds RightV3 6a 1
373Tiger DirectVS 4c 1
374Tiger TraverseHVS 5a  
375Tiger GrooveHS 4a  
376Has She Been?S 4a 1
377Mompesson Rich PickingsMVS 4c  
378HollyHVS 5c  
379WillowHVS 5c  
380Problem 12f6B 1
381Haven't Got a CluedoE2 5c *2
382Moss Side *E2 5b 1
383Choss Side *HVS 4c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer kristian

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
been caving today down carlswark, with mate, and a young lad.. thanks to the low life dirty scum bag, the took a dump in the gin entrance. shame on you,surely there was else where to do it.and by the way you need to see a doctor. gross.. good caving trip though, all the way to the shaft an back..
robert oakton - 01/Apr/14
If you looking for a great place to climb, classic problems with inspirational lines, good footholds and well maintained handholds, with great moves and a stunning atmosphere and surroundings. then DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT ever got to Stoney Middleston!...Ever!
Liam Copley - 11/Feb/09
I once bet Brian Cropper I could solo Minus Ten a hundred times in a day, we got to 35 and Brian got bored so he paid up on the bet :-)
Al Evans - 30/Jul/07