Climbs 380
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces W

Mark on the short sharp crux of Little Plumb (pitch one) © Wood for Trees

Crag features

A series of impressive buttress up to 50m high offering almost exclusively traditional routes at mainly VS and above on good rock. One of the original forcing grounds of hard limestone climbing, now sadly neglected, and therefore seldom busy. Many superb climbs, although some classics are polished. Sheltered and quick drying. Too many superb routes to choose from, but of National worth are the multi-pitch traverse of Alcasan (E2) and Our Father (E4 6b,5a). Home of some of the hardest and most polished bouldering in the Peak.

Approach notes

A true roadside crag! From a large layby on the A623 just between the village of Stoney Middleton and the crag cross the road (1 min).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
been caving today down carlswark, with mate, and a young lad.. thanks to the low life dirty scum bag, the took a dump in the gin entrance. shame on you,surely there was else where to do it.and by the way you need to see a doctor. gross.. good caving trip though, all the way to the shaft an back..
robert oakton - 01/Apr/14
If you looking for a great place to climb, classic problems with inspirational lines, good footholds and well maintained handholds, with great moves and a stunning atmosphere and surroundings. then DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT ever got to Stoney Middleston!...Ever!
Liam Copley - 11/Feb/09
I once bet Brian Cropper I could solo Minus Ten a hundred times in a day, we got to 35 and Brian got bored so he paid up on the bet :-)
Al Evans - 30/Jul/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Electric quarry 
2Roraima
-
HVS 5b 3
3The Disillusioned Brew Machine
-
E3 5c 2
4Helmut SchmittE6 6b **5
5Cabbage CrackE4 6a **101
6JasperE3 6a **89
7The Heat
-
E5 6a 1
8OliverE4 6a ***58
9Millionaire TouchE4 6b ***35
10X CalibreE6 6b  
11IcarusE1 5b 2
12Brown CornerHVS 5a *46
13One 'ard Move
-
E6 6b 1
14DamoclesE3 5b *15
15Golden BoyE5 6b *1
16Emotional RescueE5 6b *8
17John PeelE2 5b *43
18Creeping FleshE4 6a  
 The Slurper 
20AcrophobiaHVS 5a *26
21J ArthurE1 5b 5
22Easy ActionE1 5b **44
23The SlurperE1 5c *36
24Gollyberry
-
E2 5c 8
25Lard Wall
-
E5 6a 1
26Psychopath
-
E1 5b 3
27Daedalus
-
E4 6a 1
28Vicky
-
E1 5b  
 Triglyph/Mortuary buttress 
30Drainpipe GrooveVS 4c 15
31Speed KillsE4 6a *5
32The MorgueE3 5c *16
33Mortuary StepsHVS 5b **113
34Hart AttackE5 6b  
35Cardiac ArrestE4 6a *7
36Beta BlockerE5 6b  
37Little CapucinHVS 5a *41
38How the HellVS 4c *53
39What the HellVS 4b *98
40Hell Hath No FuryE2 5b  
41Morning CrackS 4a *54
42Hellish morningVS 4b ** 
 Ivy Buttress 
44NazeVD 8
45Child's AreteHVS 5a 5
46Emanon
-
HS 6
 Tom's Roof 
48Tom's Original
-
f7A *203
49Tom's Original Reverse *f7A 29
50Tom's Original There and Back *f7A+ **21
51The Womb into Tom's Original *f7A **12
52The Womb
-
f6C *24
53Punker Bunker
-
f7A+ 61
54Armbanditf7C 4
55Power Allowance
-
f7B **45
56Swing Thing
-
f7B *30
57Quintesscence
-
f8A * 
58Pete's Power Pull
-
f7C **4
59Power trip *f7C 5
60You've Pulled *f8A 3
61Rack and Ruin
-
f7C 3
62Jerryatricks
-
f7C+ *3
63Jerry's Problem
-
f7C+ 1
64PDB problem 12f7C 1
65Tom's Roof problem 13 (PDB)f7C 2
66Figure of 8
-
f7B+ *20
67Let's go round again (fig 8 reverse) *f7C 6
68Figure of 16 *f7C 7
 Prayer Wheel Wall 
70OmletteE3 6a 7
71OmE1 5b *206
72Shit WallE2 5b 45
73ManiE1 5b *317
74PadmeHVS 5a **479
 Pearly Gates Buttress 
76looking Through Gary Gibson's EyesHVS 5a 11
77AsparagusVS 4b *214
78RobinE2 5b 11
79Cock-a-leekie WallE2 5c 132
80Vinegar FlyHVS 5a 4
81MinestroneHVS 4c *60
82Rosehip WineHS 4a *86
83Jungle Arete
-
VD 6
84PollyannaE1 5b 14
85JuggernautVS 5a 10
86HorizonS 4a 20
87Lost HorizonS 4a 36
88Aux BicyclettesVD 36
89Fingal's FlueHS 3c 18
90Fingal's CaveHVS 5a 9
91The GroperVS 4c,4b 6
92The White KnightVD 57
93Ben
-
E2 5c 4
94Gabriel and the Pearly GatesVS 4c ***527
95SolitaireE1 5b *84
96St. PeterE1 5c *275
97St. PaulE3 5c 14
98ParachuteVS 4b *230
99Roman CandleVS 4c 7
100Au GratinHS 4a 51
101Didgery DoodahE1 5a  
 Minus Ten Wall 
103Cracked WallV0- 39
104Flat WallV0 39
105Triangle Link-upV0 31
106Minus WallE1 5b 16
107Minus Wall StartV0 *38
108Minus Wall RightV3 *35
109Minus TenHVS 5a *286
110Great EscapeE1 5b 4
111Jam SandwichE5 6b 10
112Traffic JamE5 6b **82
113Double ScotchE2 5b *292
114CointreauHVS 5a *117
115The Flashing Fisher
-
E3 5c 13
116Pygmies Walk TallE1 5b *29
117ThrutchHVS 5a 25
118Flat LightE2 5c 1
119Quent's Dyno
-
f7B **63
120Not Ned's Problemf7B+ 32
121Harris Problemf7B+ 3
122White Ladder
-
f7C 19
123White Ladder (sit start)f7C 7
124The JABP
-
f7C **2
125Sharp Pocketf7B+ 1
126Little Warm-upV2 22
127Egyptian Feetf7A+ 69
128Egyptian VariationV7 *8
129Easy dynof6A 31
130One Arm Bandit
-
f7B *45
131Kirton Dyno
-
f7A+ *82
132Sean's Problem
-
f7B+ *21
133Sean's Problem Variantf7C 2
134Zippy's Sidepull
-
f7B+ *29
135Guidebook Elevenf6C+ 114
136Slopey Sidepullf7A+ **20
137Lucian's Undercut
-
f7A **73
138Zippy's Problem
-
f7B+ **17
139Zippy's Problem variant 1f7B+ *6
140Zippy's Problem variant 2f7C **8
141Pinch 2
-
f7C+ ***2
142Nasty Traverse
-
f7C+ *4
143The Double Double
-
f6C *110
144Young American
-
f7A+ **89
145Megatron
-
f7A+ *28
146Megatron Turbof7A+ 3
147The Upper Break
-
f5 *36
148The Middle Break
-
f6B *135
149The Wall Traverse
-
f6C+ *29
150George's wall Dynof7B 2
151George's wall dyno (sloper)f7C 3
152Slopey Sidepull Variantf7B *5
153Zeno's Sidepullf7C 4
 Carl's Walk 
155Tiger CrackE2 6a *2
156CostaBravaHVS 5b 4
157Carl's Wark Traverse
-
f7B *** 
158Little Crack
-
VS 5a 11
159SqueekE5 6a  
160More Air than Chocolate
-
f6A *7
161Flake and PillarE1 5b 32
162Au Revoir Monodoigtf7A+  
163Bubbles Start
-
f6B+ *16
164Bubbles WallE4 6b **103
165Bubbles OriginalE3 5c *22
166Black KabulE5 6b *10
167Carls Wark CrackE2 5c **183
168ScarabE6 6b **6
169All Systems GoE6 6c  
170Green CrackVS 4c *84
171SoapsudsE3 6a *36
172Shaky Crack
-
VD 9
173Soapsuds Traverse
-
f6B+ 16
 Medusa Bay 
175Hammer
-
VS 4b 1
176Whet
-
E2 5b 1
177SickleE1 5a *31
178Boat Pushers WallE3 5c *33
179Big BorisE5 6a 2
180Wee DorisE4 5c ***221
181MedusaE1 5b **207
182Gesemini originalE1 5b 14
183Gesemini DirectE3 5c *36
184PickpocketE4 6a **84
 Bitterfingers Bay 
186Frisco BayVS 4c *48
187Bay of Pigs
-
E1 5b 5
188Golden GateHVS 5a **127
189HingesE1 5b, 5a 4
190Bingo WallE2 5b **147
191Kelly's EyeE4 6a *45
192The year of living Dangerously
-
E4 5c 1
193Mind BlindE6 6b 2
194The Rainbow Woman
-
E3 6a 1
195WallopHS 4b *25
196Flavour of the Month
-
E6 6b *1
197My Personal Pleasure
-
E6 6c 1
198BelindaE4 6a *1
199FrothVS 4c **404
200Mottled Wall
-
E4 5c 5
201Mingtled/Mottled WallE4 5c *11
202Dead Banana CrackE1 5c ***442
203Top Banana
-
E3 6a 3
204BitterfingersE4 6a ***174
205The Great LevellerE6 6b  
206OkraE4 6a *4
207Fe Fi Fo FumHVS 5a *259
208BeanstalkE3 5c 5
209AugeanVS 4c *60
210HerculesE4 5c 3
211SisypheanE4 6a *2
212ivy Grotto DirectHVS 5a 3
213Anything CornerVS 4b 7
214MineshaftM *29
215Shellfish Shuffle
-
S 3
216TantalusHS 4b 9
 Tower of Babel 
218Babylon Bypass
-
HVS 4b 4
219Glory RoadVS 4b *176
220SinVS 4c **254
221Lucy SimmonsE2 5b *82
222The Tower of Babel
-
E1 5b 28
223RevulvaHVS 5b 2
 Windy Buttress 
225ChantrelleE1 5a 10
226Black Teddy
-
E2 5c 4
227InquisitorE2 5c *112
228Tuba Mirum
-
E5 6b *2
229Dies IraeE2 5c ***210
230Stuff the TurkeyE4 6b 3
231CirceE5 6b **38
232GasperaE5 6b *2
233Swine VesicularE6 6b  
234KinkE5 6b **13
235Kinky7c 1
236KelloggE5 6b *20
237Nice in NiceE5 6b *2
238Kingdom ComeE5 6b *15
239Special KE4 6a *13
240The Flakes DirectE2 5c ***97
241The FlakesE2 5c **63
242ArmageddonE2 5c ***206
243WindhoverE2 5c **260
244Transmaiacon
-
E5 6a 2
245Choss
-
HVS 5b 20
246Scoop WallE2 5c ***396
247Our FatherE4 6b ***114
248MenopauseE5 6b **11
249MemnonE2 5c *46
250Memnon Variation
-
E3 5c 12
251Racial Harmony
-
E4 5c *1
252AuroraVS 4c **292
253HysterectomyE5 6c  
254Adios Tango
-
E4 6a **2
255Aurora ArÍteHVS 5a **49
256Aurora Arete/Tiger TrotHVS 5a **119
257Tiger TrotVD *37
258AlcasanE2 5c ***147
259Immortal Combat6b+ 2
 Garage Buttress 
261Fluffy Roo Meets the Woodentops
-
6b+ 1
262Ticket to the Underworld
-
E4 4a,5c 1
263Compositae GrooveHVS 5a *52
264Trigger7a+ 3
265Two Ton Ted from Teddington6b+ 5
266Knockin' on the Bread Man's Door6c 5
267Bohemian6b+ *16
268Empty Cartridge6b+ *21
269Unloaded6c 13
270Reloaded6b+ *33
271I Hate You7a+ *36
272MatricideE4 6a 12
273MatrixE3 5b 2
274Four Minute TilerE5 6b *5
275Alex It was Nothing ReallyE5 6b 1
276La Belle et la BeteE6 6b *4
277Colonel BogeyE4 6a **29
278HeliconE3 5c **61
279RippemoffE1 5c *75
280ChewemoffE4 6a *9
281GerremdownE3 4c,5b **5
282Turf 'em Off6b+ 10
283Glue 'em Back7b 4
284There Maybe Rubble Ahead7b 1
285Rubble Rouser7c 1
286Golden Delicious8a * 
287Dig Deeper8a *4
288Dig Deep For Victory7c 11
289Ozone Bozo7c *33
290Tollbar8a+ 8
291Double the Rubble7c *3
292Trouble with Rubble7c+ *7
293The Big Apple8a *27
294The Lover's Leap7b+ *2
295Easy SkankingE6 6b  
296Little Plum (pitch 1)7c+ **23
297Little Plum8a ***43
298Big NoseE4 6a 2
299Ming the Merciless8a+ *3
300The King of Ming (Redundant)7b+ **62
301Virgin King7b+ **62
302Virgin on the LooseE6 6b  
303Smoothlands6a 42
304Lowerlands5c 30
305FlycatcherE5 6a 1
306Lowlands6c+ *74
307Dreamcatcher6b+ *148
308Creamsnatcher6b *144
309Gulp and Go6b+ 34
310EvasorVS 4c **122
311Can't Stop Now6c 31
312Redeployed6c+ *11
313Up Yours7a *13
314Four Thousand6b+ *97
315Two Thousand6a+ 52
316Onwards and Upwards6a 89
317Nowt about Change6b 64
318End, Stop, Finale6b 36
319The Last Stop5b 27
320AtroposHVS 5a *5
321AquilineHVS 5b *16
322PendulumHVS 5a **68
323My Girdle is Killing Me
-
E4 6a, 5b 1
 Other Bouldering 
325Rockfax Problem 21(Minus Ten - Right)V1 17
326Rockfax Problem 22 (Minus Ten - Right)
-
V2 20
327Rockfax Problem 23 (Minus Ten - Right)
-
V4 *10
328Rockfax Problem 1 (Minus Ten - Central)
-
f6B 9
329Rockfax Problem 20 (Minus Ten - Central)
-
f6A 8
330Rockfax Problem 8 (Minus Ten - Central) (Stoney Middleton)
-
f6C+ 6
331Rockfax Problem 1 (George's Wall) (Stoney Middleton)
-
f6B+ 6
332Odd Thingf7B 9
333Arete left handf6A *5
334Arete right handf6C+ *1
335Problem 6f7A 20
336Problem 13 (Left hand Side)f7A 6
337Triangular Pocketsf6B+ **11
 unknown/not in guide/Incorrect, entries 
339RF, Problem 5f7A **1
340Figure of 24
-
f7C 1
341The groove (Georges wall)f6A+ 7
342Rockfax problem 24 (minus 10 right)f6C 5
343Problem 7f7A+ 8
344Triangle pocket (ukb guide problem 6)f7A 7
345Problem 8f7A+ 3
346Pdb problem 1 centralf7B+ *1
347Triangle Underclingf6C *1
348Diamond Pinchf7C 5
349Blockhead's Aretef7A+ 6
350Crimp Shrimpf6B **6
351UKB topo 11. Minus 10 left.f7A 3
352Left (UKB online topo)f6C 1
353Gav's Problemf7B 3
354Problem 11 UKB topo Minus Ten leftf6B+ 4
355Zippy's Sidepull Variant 1f7C 1
356Jimmyatricksf7C+ 1
357Sign My NameE2 5c 8
358The Brighton LineE1 5b,5b *2
359Tony's Bloody FingerE1 5b,5b 2
360MonosodE2 5c * 
361Lesley AnnE3 6a 1
362Canine of BrineE2 5b 1
363Master of TidesVS 4b 2
364End of the LineE1 5b 1
365Tower of Babel indirectE1 5b  
366Coffee HighV4 7
367Prefab Brick Cake
-
V1 *10
368Face Off
-
V4 16
369Facade
-
V5 10
370The Power Pinchf7C+ 1
371The Gherkinf7A ***3
372Not Zippy's Variant 3f6C *1
373Minus Wall Traverse
-
f6B+ 2
374Minus Wall Traverse (rockfax 2014 problem 6)f6B+ 6
375Soapsuds LeftV1 3
376soapsuds CrackV0+ 3
377Soapsuds RightV3 1
378Tiger DirectVS 4c 1
379Tiger TraverseHVS 5a  
380Tiger GrooveHS 4a  
381Has She Been?S 4a 1
382Mompesson Rich PickingsMVS 4c  
383HollyHVS 5c  
384WillowHVS 5c  
385Problem 12f6B 1
386Haven't Got a CluedoE2 5c *2
387Moss Side *E2 5b 1
388Choss Side *HVS 4c 1
389Harris Problem 3 *
-
f7B+ 1
390Blockheads Arete non eliminate *V0+ 1
391Power Allowance Check *f7B 3
392Phil 's phigure of 8 (minus ten) *f6C 2
393Phil 's phigure of 16 (minus ten) *f6C+ 1
394Phil 's phigure of 24 (minus ten) *f6C+  
395The Artful Dodger *E5 6b 1
396The Full Reverse *f7A *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer kristian