Climbs 371
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces W

Mark on the short sharp crux of Little Plumb (pitch one) © Wood for Trees

Crag features

A series of impressive buttress up to 50m high offering almost exclusively traditional routes at mainly VS and above on good rock. One of the original forcing grounds of hard limestone climbing, now sadly neglected, and therefore seldom busy. Many superb climbs, although some classics are polished. Sheltered and quick drying. Too many superb routes to choose from, but of National worth are the multi-pitch traverse of Alcasan (E2) and Our Father (E4 6b,5a). Home of some of the hardest and most polished bouldering in the Peak.

Approach notes

A true roadside crag! From a large layby on the A623 just between the village of Stoney Middleton and the crag cross the road (1 min).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
been caving today down carlswark, with mate, and a young lad.. thanks to the low life dirty scum bag, the took a dump in the gin entrance. shame on you,surely there was else where to do it.and by the way you need to see a doctor. gross.. good caving trip though, all the way to the shaft an back..
robert oakton - 01/Apr/14
If you looking for a great place to climb, classic problems with inspirational lines, good footholds and well maintained handholds, with great moves and a stunning atmosphere and surroundings. then DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT ever got to Stoney Middleston!...Ever!
Liam Copley - 11/Feb/09
I once bet Brian Cropper I could solo Minus Ten a hundred times in a day, we got to 35 and Brian got bored so he paid up on the bet :-)
Al Evans - 30/Jul/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Electric quarry 
2Roraima
-
HVS 5b 3
3The Disillusioned Brew Machine
-
E3 5c 2
4Helmut SchmittE6 6b **5
5Cabbage CrackE4 6a **96
6JasperE3 6a **92
7The Heat
-
E5 6a 1
8OliverE4 6a ***57
9Millionaire TouchE4 6b ***35
10X CalibreE6 6b  
11IcarusE1 5b 2
12Brown CornerHVS 5a *46
13One 'ard Move
-
E6 6b 1
14DamoclesE3 5b *13
15Golden BoyE5 6b *1
16Emotional RescueE5 6b *6
17John PeelE2 5b *43
18Creeping FleshE4 6a  
 The Slurper 
20AcrophobiaHVS 5a *25
21J ArthurE1 5b 5
22Easy ActionE1 5b **41
23The SlurperE1 5c *36
24Gollyberry
-
E2 5c 8
25Lard Wall
-
E5 6a 1
26Psychopath
-
E1 5b 3
27Daedalus
-
E4 6a 1
28Vicky
-
E1 5b  
 Triglyph/Mortuary buttress 
30Drainpipe GrooveVS 4c 15
31Speed KillsE4 6a *5
32The MorgueE3 5c *16
33Mortuary StepsHVS 5b **101
34Hart AttackE5 6b  
35Cardiac ArrestE4 6a *7
36Beta BlockerE5 6b  
37Little CapucinHVS 5a *41
38How the HellVS 4c *53
39What the HellVS 4b *97
40Hell Hath No FuryE2 5b  
41Morning CrackS 4a *52
42Hellish morningVS 4b ** 
 Ivy Buttress 
44NazeVD 7
45Child's AreteHVS 5a 5
46Emanon
-
HS 6
 Tom's Roof 
48Tom's Original
-
f7A *192
49Tom's Original Reverse *f7A 27
50Tom's Original There and Back *f7A+ **20
51The Womb into Tom's Original *f7A **12
52The Womb
-
f6C *23
53Punker Bunker
-
f7A+ 59
54Armbanditf7C 1
55Power Allowance
-
f7B **44
56Swing Thing
-
f7B *29
57Quintesscence
-
f8A * 
58Pete's Power Pull
-
f7C **4
59Power trip *f7C 5
60You've Pulled *f8A 3
61Rack and Ruin
-
f7C 3
62Jerryatricks
-
f7C+ *3
63Jerry's Problem
-
f7C+ 1
64PDB problem 12f7C 1
65Tom's Roof problem 13 (PDB)f7C 2
66Figure of 8
-
f7B+ *20
67Let's go round again (fig 8 reverse) *f7C 6
68Figure of 16 *f7C 7
 Prayer Wheel Wall 
70OmletteE3 6a 7
71OmE1 5b *196
72Shit WallE2 5b 45
73ManiE1 5b *300
74PadmeHVS 5a **461
 Pearly Gates Buttress 
76looking Through Gary Gibson's EyesHVS 5a 10
77AsparagusVS 4b *201
78RobinE2 5b 11
79Cock-a-leekie WallE2 5c 127
80Vinegar FlyHVS 5a 4
81MinestroneHVS 4c *55
82Rosehip WineHS 4a *78
83Jungle Arete
-
VD 6
84PollyannaE1 5b 14
85JuggernautVS 5a 10
86HorizonS 4a 19
87Lost HorizonS 4a 30
88Aux BicyclettesVD 31
89Fingal's FlueHS 3c 14
90Fingal's CaveHVS 5a 9
91The GroperVS 4c,4b 6
92The White KnightVD 52
93Ben
-
E2 5c 4
94Gabriel and the Pearly GatesVS 4c ***509
95SolitaireE1 5b *83
96St. PeterE1 5c *261
97St. PaulE3 5c 14
98ParachuteVS 4b *218
99Roman CandleVS 4c 7
100Au GratinHS 4a 48
101Didgery DoodahE1 5a  
 Minus Ten Wall 
103Cracked WallV0- 35
104Flat WallV0 35
105Triangle Link-upV0 27
106Minus WallE1 5b 15
107Minus Wall StartV0 *35
108Minus Wall RightV3 *30
109Minus TenHVS 5a *266
110Great EscapeE1 5b 4
111Jam SandwichE5 6b 10
112Traffic JamE5 6b **83
113Double ScotchE2 5b *278
114CointreauHVS 5a *111
115The Flashing Fisher
-
E3 5c 13
116Pygmies Walk TallE1 5b *23
117ThrutchHVS 5a 24
118Flat LightE2 5c  
119Quent's Dyno
-
f7B **60
120Not Ned's Problemf7B+ 31
121Harris Problemf7B+ 3
122White Ladder
-
f7C 12
123White Ladder (sit start)f7C 7
124The JABP
-
f7C **2
125Sharp Pocketf7B+ 1
126Little Warm-upV2 20
127Egyptian Feetf7A+ 63
128Egyptian VariationV7 *8
129Easy dynof6A 28
130One Arm Bandit
-
f7B *44
131Kirton Dyno
-
f7A+ *80
132Sean's Problem
-
f7B+ *23
133Sean's Problem Variantf7C 2
134Zippy's Sidepull
-
f7B+ *29
135Guidebook Elevenf6C+ 108
136Slopey Sidepullf7A+ **20
137Lucian's Undercut
-
f7A **71
138Zippy's Problem
-
f7B+ **17
139Zippy's Problem variant 1f7B+ *6
140Zippy's Problem variant 2f7C **5
141Pinch 2
-
f7C+ ***2
142Nasty Traverse
-
f7C+ *3
143The Double Double
-
f6C *104
144Young American
-
f7A+ **82
145Megatron
-
f7A+ *28
146Megatron Turbof7A+ 3
147The Upper Break
-
f5 *35
148The Middle Break
-
f6B *128
149The Wall Traverse
-
f6C+ *29
150George's wall Dynof7B 2
151George's wall dyno (sloper)f7C 3
152Slopey Sidepull Variantf7B *5
153Zeno's Sidepullf7C 3
 Carl's Walk 
155Tiger CrackE2 6a *2
156CostaBravaHVS 5b 4
157Carl's Wark Traverse
-
f7B *** 
158Little Crack
-
VS 5a 11
159SqueekE5 6a  
160More Air than Chocolate
-
f6A *7
161Flake and PillarE1 5b 31
162Au Revoir Monodoigtf7A+  
163Bubbles Start
-
f6B+ *16
164Bubbles WallE4 6b **101
165Bubbles OriginalE3 5c *20
166Black KabulE5 6b *10
167Carls Wark CrackE2 5c **176
168ScarabE6 6b **5
169All Systems GoE6 6c  
170Green CrackVS 4c *81
171SoapsudsE3 6a *36
172Shaky Crack
-
VD 9
173Soapsuds Traverse
-
f6B+ 16
 Medusa Bay 
175Hammer
-
VS 4b 1
176Whet
-
E2 5b 1
177SickleE1 5a *31
178Boat Pushers WallE3 5c *33
179Big BorisE5 6a 2
180Wee DorisE4 5c ***200
181MedusaE1 5b **185
182Gesemini originalE1 5b 13
183Gesemini DirectE3 5c *35
184PickpocketE4 6a **76
 Bitterfingers Bay 
186Frisco BayVS 4c *48
187Bay of Pigs
-
E1 5b 5
188Golden GateHVS 5a **114
189HingesE1 5b, 5a 4
190Bingo WallE2 5b **144
191Kelly's EyeE4 6a *41
192The year of living Dangerously
-
E4 5c 1
193Mind BlindE6 6b 2
194The Rainbow Woman
-
E3 6a 1
195WallopHS 4b *25
196Flavour of the Month
-
E6 6b *1
197My Personal Pleasure
-
E6 6c 1
198BelindaE4 6a *1
199FrothVS 4c **374
200Mottled Wall
-
E4 5c 5
201Mingtled/Mottled WallE4 5c *11
202Dead Banana CrackE1 5c ***419
203Top Banana
-
E3 6a 2
204BitterfingersE4 6a ***156
205The Great LevellerE6 6b  
206OkraE4 6a *4
207Fe Fi Fo FumHVS 5a *248
208BeanstalkE3 5c 5
209AugeanVS 4c *55
210HerculesE4 5c  
211ivy Grotto DirectHVS 5a 3
212Anything CornerVS 4b 7
213MineshaftM *28
214Shellfish Shuffle
-
S 3
215TantalusHS 4b 8
 Tower of Babel 
217Babylon Bypass
-
HVS 4b 4
218Glory RoadVS 4b *167
219SinVS 4c **233
220Lucy SimmonsE2 5b *78
221The Tower of Babel
-
E1 5b 28
222RevulvaHVS 5b 2
 Windy Buttress 
224ChantrelleE1 5a 9
225Black Teddy
-
E2 5c 4
226InquisitorE2 5c *105
227Dies IraeE2 5c ***192
228Stuff the TurkeyE4 6b 3
229CirceE5 6b **36
230GasperaE5 6b *2
231Swine VesicularE6 6b  
232KinkE5 6b **12
233Kinky7c 1
234KelloggE5 6b *20
235Nice in NiceE5 6b *2
236Kingdom ComeE5 6b *16
237Special KE4 6a *13
238The Flakes DirectE2 5c ***96
239The FlakesE2 5c **63
240ArmageddonE2 5c ***185
241WindhoverE2 5c **242
242Transmaiacon
-
E5 6a 2
243Choss
-
HVS 5b 20
244Scoop WallE2 5c ***333
245Our FatherE4 6b ***97
246MenopauseE5 6b **11
247MemnonE2 5c *46
248Memnon Variation
-
E3 5c 12
249Racial Harmony
-
E4 5c *1
250AuroraVS 4c **274
251HysterectomyE5 6c  
252Aurora ArÍteHVS 5a **43
253Aurora Arete/Tiger TrotHVS 5a **119
254Tiger TrotVD *36
255AlcasanE2 5c ***117
256Immortal Combat6b+ 2
 Garage Buttress 
258Ticket to the Underworld
-
E4 4a,5c 1
259Compositae GrooveHVS 5a *51
260Trigger7a+ 3
261Two Ton Ted from Teddington6b+ 5
262Knockin' on the Bread Man's Door6c 4
263Bohemian6b+ *15
264Empty Cartridge6b+ *21
265Unloaded6c 12
266Reloaded6b+ *33
267I Hate You7a+ *32
268MatricideE4 6a 10
269MatrixE3 5b 2
270Four Minute TilerE5 6b *6
271Alex It was Nothing ReallyE5 6b 1
272La Belle et la BeteE6 6b *4
273Colonel BogeyE4 6a **26
274HeliconE3 5c **58
275RippemoffE1 5c *75
276ChewemoffE4 6a *9
277GerremdownE3 4c,5b **5
278Turf 'em Off6b+ 8
279Glue 'em Back7b 3
280There Maybe Rubble Ahead7b 1
281Rubble Rouser7c 1
282Golden Delicious8a * 
283Dig Deeper8a *3
284Dig Deep For Victory7c 7
285Ozone Bozo7c *23
286Tollbar8a+ 4
287Double the Rubble7c *3
288Trouble with Rubble7c+ *7
289The Big Apple8a *23
290The Lover's Leap7b+ *2
291Easy SkankingE6 6b  
292Little Plum (pitch 1)7c+ **15
293Little Plum8a ***15
294Big NoseE4 6a 2
295Ming the Merciless8a+ *1
296The King of Ming (Redundant)7b+ **58
297Virgin King7b+ **42
298Virgin on the LooseE6 6b  
299Smoothlands6a 33
300Lowerlands5c 21
301FlycatcherE5 6a 1
302Lowlands6c+ *60
303Dreamcatcher6b+ *123
304Creamsnatcher6b *118
305Gulp and Go6b+ 23
306EvasorVS 4c **116
307Can't Stop Now6c 24
308Redeployed6c+ *7
309Up Yours7a *7
310Four Thousand6b+ *76
311Two Thousand6a+ 39
312Onwards and Upwards6a 69
313Nowt about Change6b 48
314End, Stop, Finale6b 20
315The Last Stop5b 18
316AtroposHVS 5a *5
317AquilineHVS 5b *16
318PendulumHVS 5a **66
319My Girdle is Killing Me
-
E4 6a, 5b 1
 Other Bouldering 
321Rockfax Problem 21(Minus Ten - Right)V1 17
322Rockfax Problem 22 (Minus Ten - Right)
-
V2 20
323Rockfax Problem 23 (Minus Ten - Right)
-
V4 *10
324Rockfax Problem 1 (Minus Ten - Central)
-
f6B 9
325Rockfax Problem 20 (Minus Ten - Central)
-
f6A 8
326Rockfax Problem 8 (Minus Ten - Central) (Stoney Middleton)
-
f6C+ 6
327Rockfax Problem 1 (George's Wall) (Stoney Middleton)
-
f6B+ 6
328Odd Thingf7B 9
329Arete left handf6A *5
330Arete right handf6C+ *1
331Problem 6f7A 19
332Problem 13 (Left hand Side)f7A 6
333Triangular Pocketsf6B+ **11
 unknown/not in guide/Incorrect, entries 
335RF, Problem 5f7A **1
336Figure of 24
-
f7C 1
337The groove (Georges wall)f6A+ 7
338Rockfax problem 24 (minus 10 right)f6C 5
339Problem 7f7A+ 8
340Triangle pocket (ukb guide problem 6)f7A 6
341Problem 8f7A+ 3
342Pdb problem 1 centralf7B+ *1
343Triangle Underclingf6C *1
344Diamond Pinchf7C 5
345Blockhead's Aretef7A+ 6
346Crimp Shrimpf6B **6
347UKB topo 11. Minus 10 left.f7A 3
348Left (UKB online topo)f6C 1
349Gav's Problemf7B 2
350Problem 11 UKB topo Minus Ten leftf6B+ 4
351Zippy's Sidepull Variant 1f7C 1
352Jimmyatricksf7C+ 1
353Sign My NameE2 5c 5
354The Brighton LineE1 5b,5b *2
355Tony's Bloody FingerE1 5b,5b 2
356MonosodE2 5c * 
357Lesley AnnE3 6a 1
358Canine of BrineE2 5b 1
359Master of TidesVS 4b 1
360End of the LineE1 5b 1
361Tower of Babel indirectE1 5b  
362Coffee HighV4 7
363Prefab Brick Cake
-
V1 *10
364Face Off
-
V4 16
365Facade
-
V5 9
366The Power Pinchf7C+ 1
367The Gherkinf7A ***1
368Not Zippy's Variant 3f6C *1
369Minus Wall Traverse
-
f6B+ 2
370Minus Wall Traverse (rockfax 2014 problem 6)f6B+ 6
371Soapsuds LeftV1 3
372soapsuds CrackV0+ 3
373Soapsuds RightV3 1
374Tiger DirectVS 4c 1
375Tiger TraverseHVS 5a  
376Tiger GrooveHS 4a  
377Has She Been?S 4a 1
378Mompesson Rich PickingsMVS 4c  
379HollyHVS 5c  
380WillowHVS 5c  
381Problem 12f6B 1
382Haven't Got a CluedoE2 5c *2
383Moss Side *E2 5b 1
384Choss Side *HVS 4c 1
385Harris Problem 3 *
-
f7B+ 1
386Blockheads Arete non eliminate *V0+ 1
387Power Allowance Check *f7B 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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