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Craig y ForwynConwy, WALES
Climbs 169 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 110m a.s.l – Faces SE
The Great Wall area merited the Ken Wilson treatment in Extreme Rock.
Not to be confused with Craig-y-Forwen which is at a totally different location (Worlds End).
The BMC have recently negotiated an acccess agreement with the local farmer after a 20 year ban.
Unfortunately, there has now arisen a dispute over ownership of the main Cliff area between Human Menagerie and Purple Haze. Plas Newydd believe their deeds include this part of the crag and they are not prepared to allow climbers onto the crag.
Aside from this, the single biggest issue is the parking.
The landowner is quite clear on the following point - if cars are parked along the road below the crag he will withdraw access again.
It is vital that only the parking space provided at the top of the crag is used. This is accessed via Trawscoad road from the village of Llysfaen.
Currently the spot is fairly muddy. If it seems to be full, either park sensibly in the village and walk, or climb somewhere else for the day. Work to improve the parking spot is planned, please be patient in the meantime.
DO NOT PARK BELOW THE CRAG.
Finally, be aware that sound really carries in this valley, try to keep a low profile and noise to a minimum.
Defecating, littering and profanity should also be kept to a minimum.
Copies of the Andy Pollitt guide covering Craig Y Forwyn are available directly from Cordee.
Do not park on the verges off the Issalt Road – otherwise access will be lost. The correct parking is located at a hairpin bend off the Trawscoed Road, in a field above the crag at OS Grid 902(5) 764(5).
To get to this spot, drive along the Isallt Road below the escarpment, passing Plas Newydd Caravan Park. At 2 km beyond the caravan park, follow the road as it bends to the right to pass a Chapel on the right. At the following T-junction, turn right and proceed along Dolwen Rd. for approximately 200m until a sharp right turn along Trawscoed Rd. Pass along Trawscoed Rd. for approximately 900m (the last 100m are quite rough) until a sharp right hand hairpin with two gates on the left. Go through the metal gate and park on the grass either side of the farmers track/North Wales Footpath. The field quickly drops away towards the crag, so take care not to park too far down the slope.
Accessing the crag from the agreed parking is easy and convenient - walk from down the inclined field and head for a stile in the right hand corner. This will take you directly into the left hand sections of the crag.
Directions: lies 3 miles E of Colwyn Bay. Take the A55 coast road E from Colwyn Bay. After 2 miles turn off to Llanddulas onto the B5443 (may be called the A547). After 0.2mi, turn R up the valley by the river. Continue for just over half a mile: the crag on the right. Two-Tier Buttress is 500 yards back along the road from here.
Climbs at this crag
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