Craig y Forwyn

Climbs 169 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 110m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
Many routes in the middle and higher grades up to 100ft in height, a low lying cliff that drys quickly after rain and has much better weather than Snowdonia.

The Great Wall area merited the Ken Wilson treatment in Extreme Rock.

Not to be confused with Craig-y-Forwen which is at a totally different location (Worlds End).

ACCESS;

The BMC have recently negotiated an acccess agreement with the local farmer after a 20 year ban.

Unfortunately, there has now arisen a dispute over ownership of the main Cliff area between Human Menagerie and Purple Haze. Plas Newydd believe their deeds include this part of the crag and they are not prepared to allow climbers onto the crag.

Aside from this, the single biggest issue is the parking.

The landowner is quite clear on the following point - if cars are parked along the road below the crag he will withdraw access again.

It is vital that only the parking space provided at the top of the crag is used. This is accessed via Trawscoad road from the village of Llysfaen.

Currently the spot is fairly muddy. If it seems to be full, either park sensibly in the village and walk, or climb somewhere else for the day. Work to improve the parking spot is planned, please be patient in the meantime.

DO NOT PARK BELOW THE CRAG.

Finally, be aware that sound really carries in this valley, try to keep a low profile and noise to a minimum.

Defecating, littering and profanity should also be kept to a minimum.

Copies of the Andy Pollitt guide covering Craig Y Forwyn are available directly from Cordee.

Access notes
* A new Access Agreement has been negotiated with the local farmer and it is essential that climbers park only in the designated place above the crag.

Do not park on the verges off the Issalt Road otherwise access will be lost. The correct parking is located at a hairpin bend off the Trawscoed Road, in a field above the crag at OS Grid 902(5) 764(5).

To get to this spot, drive along the Isallt Road below the escarpment, passing Plas Newydd Caravan Park. At 2 km beyond the caravan park, follow the road as it bends to the right to pass a Chapel on the right. At the following T-junction, turn right and proceed along Dolwen Rd. for approximately 200m until a sharp right turn along Trawscoed Rd. Pass along Trawscoed Rd. for approximately 900m (the last 100m are quite rough) until a sharp right hand hairpin with two gates on the left. Go through the metal gate and park on the grass either side of the farmers track/North Wales Footpath. The field quickly drops away towards the crag, so take care not to park too far down the slope.

Accessing the crag from the agreed parking is easy and convenient - walk from down the inclined field and head for a stile in the right hand corner. This will take you directly into the left hand sections of the crag.

Directions: lies 3 miles E of Colwyn Bay. Take the A55 coast road E from Colwyn Bay. After 2 miles turn off to Llanddulas onto the B5443 (may be called the A547). After 0.2mi, turn R up the valley by the river. Continue for just over half a mile: the crag on the right. Two-Tier Buttress is 500 yards back along the road from here.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
North Wales Limestone (2014),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 LEFT HAND SECTION 
2CervixS
3KiteD
4ClingHS 4a
5Naughty BitsS 3c
6Beeline DirectHS 4a
7BeelineHS
8OttoVD
9TemptationVD
10King RatVS 4c
11ClaustrophobiaM
12Golden GateD
13AnnS 4a
14Legal SeparationE2 5c
15Hugh's GrooveE3 5c
16Dyslexic's DeliteVS 4c
17Un-named Route 3HVS 5a
18Heart AttackHS 4b
19Un-named Route 4VD
 SPIKE DRIVER BUTTRESS 
21Larks A Bumbly AreteHVS 5a
22Larks a BumblyS 4a *
23The Last GraspE2 5b *
24Milky WayHS 4b
25Kiwi Direct StartE1 5b
26KiwiS 4a
27Spike DriverE2 5c
28HairlineHVS 5a
29Abseil grooveVD
30TempestVS 4c
31Plas Newydd GrooveVS 4c
32Paul's WallE1 5b
33Ivy LineHS 4a
34Dave's WallE2 5c
35ArianHS 4b *
36Arian Direct FinishVS 4c
37Arian Superdirect FinishE1 5b
38Arian Direct StartVS 5a
39Sunny CityE2 5c
40WhitewashVS 4c
41Gear FreakVS 4c
 CRUNGE BUTTRESS 
43VoleVD
44The CringeE2 5c
45The CrungeE1 5c *
46Extinction CrackVS 4c
47Think VoidE2 5c
48ChatterleyHVS 5a
49CoulombeVS 4c **
50MoonwalkVS 4c
51Fading ColoursE2 5b
52The FoxHVS 5a
5323 SkidooE2 5c
54HooterHS
55Scum BagHVS 5a
56Un-named Route 1HVS 5a
57Squatter's RightsHVS 5a
 MAIN CLIFF 
59Human MenagerieE1 5a
60SwingerHVS 5a, 5a
61KnightsbridgeVS
62Knightsbridge variationE2 5c
63PterodactylHVS
64Banana MoonE3 5c
65The FlueVS 4c *
66One Step BeyondE2 5c
67Snotty AreteE3 5c
68Zig-ZagVD
69Little NebHVS 5b
70Softly-SoftlyS
71Y ChimneysHVD
72YamHVS 5a
73Jungle LoveE3 5c
74Imminent DeparteesE7 6c **
75Imminent CrisisE5 6b
76CutterS 4a
77Fido's RedemptionHVS 5a, 4c **
78Jugular StartE1 5b
79High SteppaE5 5c, 6b *
80Great WhalerE2 5b, 5c
81FreedomE2 5c ***
82MojoE1 5b ***
83Crazy HorsesE3 6a **
84Quick StepE4 6a ***
85Quick Step Direct FinishE4 6b ***
86Space CaseE6 6b ***
87Great WallE4 5c ***
88Book of DreamsE4 6a *
89Magnum OpusE5 6a **
90High Plains DrifterE3 6a **
91DemolitionVS 4c
92The Texas ShuffleE2 5c, 4b
93Texas Shuffle Direct StartE3 6a
94Washington WaltzE2 5b, 4b
95Twisting ChimneyVS 4c
96The Norman ConquestHVS 5a, 4c
97Neurotic WoodpeckerVS 4c
98Street StrollerE1
99Scalar AreteE4 6a
100ScalarVS 4c **
101Scalar Direct StartVS 5a
102MoonwindE5 6b ***
103The MaidenE3 5b, 6a
104Hedera WallE3 6a
105Ivy SepulchreVS
106TitusHVS 5a, 4b *
107WackerooE2 5b, 5c
108Wackeroo Direct FinishE1 5b
109The HurtingE3 6a
110Mad WorldE4 6a
111Space MountainE5 6a ***
112Ash GrooveVS 4c
113Sinister ChimneyS 4b *
114Savage the CabbageE1 5b
115Eight-Footed ExerciseHVS 5a
116The Electric ButterflyVS 4b
117Glade AreteVS
118Purple HazeE3 6a
119The Fun HouseE4 6a **
120Gone With The GonadsE1 5c
121ThatchS
122Thatcher TraverseHVS 5a
123StretchVS 4c
124The Space RaceE4 5c, 6a
125Burgess WallE2 5c
126Burgess Wall Right HandE4 6a, 5c *
127Man Alive Direct StartE3 6a *
128Panorama Direct StartE3 6b *
129PanoramaE3 6b, 6a *
130Man AliveE1 5b
131The GroanE3 5c, 6a
132The AreteVS 4c
133Square Cut ChimneyHS 4c
134Square Cut Chimney Direct FinishHVS 5a *
135DuchessHVS 5a *
136Duchess Direct StartHVS 5a *
137Sunset StripHVS 5a *
138Sunset Strip Direct StartHVS 4c
139AutobahnE3 5c
140Route 66VS 4c **
141ManhattanE5 6a **
142Manhattan Left HandE4 6a *
143SangfroidHVS 5a **
144Sangfroid DirectE2 5c
145THe SnakeE2 5c, 5c **
146The Snake VariationsE3 5c
147The People MoverE5 6b, 6c
148StripperS
149Sour GrapesE2
150Di's DelightE2 5b
151Top CatVS
152ZonesthesiaE1 5a, 5a
 TWO TIER BUTTRESS 
 LOWER TIER 
155Limestone CowboyS
156Making MemoriesE2 5c
157Making MoviesE3 6a *
158SkateawayE3 6a, 5a *
159Eastbound TrainHVS 5a
160Rock OnS
161Face ValueVS 4c
162Jackdaw ChimneyVD
163RomeoVS 4c
164JulietE1 5b
165Amateur DramaticsE2 5c
 UPPER TIER 
167Into The GapE3 5c
168Good Friday GrooveE1 5b
169Notta BleckM
170Physical DiagnosticE3 6a, 5a
171Napalm SundayE4 6b
172The Black HoleE4 5c *
173Livingstone, I Presume?E4 6a *
174Bush DoctorE2
175Bush RushVS 4b
176Electric AvenueE1 5b
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer michael burrows

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
I'm afraid even the limited new access (as per recent update) looks doubtful. We climbed on the r-hand edge of the crag last week, parked as per BMC guidance and were unobtrusive to the point of silence. Half way up Sangfroid (a legitimate route, as we understood it - outside the central area and beyond the stile, well to the right of Purple Haze) we were forced to lower off after an unseen individual hurled some quite unpleasant sustained abuse at us from below the trees. We left without confrontation, but as a local who started climbing in 1988 and has therefore never climbed on this crag before, it's a pretty distressing state of affairs!
simongwyn - 30/Jun/09
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 28/Sep/2014

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