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Logbooks & Crags

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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SH 907767 (OS Landranger #116)

Craig y Forwyn

Conwy, WALES

Climbs 169 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 110m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
Many routes in the middle and higher grades up to 100ft in height, a low lying cliff that drys quickly after rain and has much better weather than Snowdonia.

The Great Wall area merited the Ken Wilson treatment in Extreme Rock.

Not to be confused with Craig-y-Forwen which is at a totally different location (Worlds End).

ACCESS;

The BMC have recently negotiated an acccess agreement with the local farmer after a 20 year ban.

Unfortunately, there has now arisen a dispute over ownership of the main Cliff area between Human Menagerie and Purple Haze. Plas Newydd believe their deeds include this part of the crag and they are not prepared to allow climbers onto the crag.

Aside from this, the single biggest issue is the parking.

The landowner is quite clear on the following point - if cars are parked along the road below the crag he will withdraw access again.

It is vital that only the parking space provided at the top of the crag is used. This is accessed via Trawscoad road from the village of Llysfaen.

Currently the spot is fairly muddy. If it seems to be full, either park sensibly in the village and walk, or climb somewhere else for the day. Work to improve the parking spot is planned, please be patient in the meantime.

DO NOT PARK BELOW THE CRAG.

Finally, be aware that sound really carries in this valley, try to keep a low profile and noise to a minimum.

Defecating, littering and profanity should also be kept to a minimum.

Copies of the Andy Pollitt guide covering Craig Y Forwyn are available directly from Cordee.

Weather forecast

Today	Tue	Wed	Thu	Fri

Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Snowdonia – Met Office: Snowdonia

Guidebooks

Out of print: North Wales Limestone (1987)

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name	Grade	x

	LEFT HAND SECTION
2	Cervix	S	2
3	Kite	D	2
4	Cling	HS 4a	5
5	Naughty Bits	S 3c	9
6	Beeline Direct	HS 4a	4
7	Beeline	HS	9
8	Otto	VD	8
9	Temptation	VD	5
10	King Rat	VS 4c	1
11	Claustrophobia	M	8
12	Golden Gate	D	14
13	Ann	S 4a	7
14	Legal Separation	E2 5c	1
15	Hugh's Groove	E3 5c	1
16	Dyslexic's Delite	VS 4c	2
17	Un-named Route 3	HVS 5a	3
18	Heart Attack	HS 4b	16
19	Un-named Route 4	VD	11
	SPIKE DRIVER BUTTRESS
21	Larks A Bumbly Arete	HVS 5a	2
22	Larks a Bumbly	S 4a *	62
23	The Last Grasp	E2 5b *	11
24	Milky Way	HS 4b	4
25	Kiwi Direct Start	E1 5b	8
26	Kiwi	S 4a	41
27	Spike Driver	E2 5c	1
28	Hairline	HVS 5a	17
29	Abseil groove	VD	1
30	Tempest	VS 4c	2
31	Plas Newydd Groove	VS 4c	28
32	Paul's Wall	E1 5b	1
33	Ivy Line	HS 4a	3
34	Dave's Wall	E2 5c
35	Arian	HS 4b *	35
36	Arian Direct Finish	VS 4c	20
37	Arian Superdirect Finish	E1 5b	1
38	Arian Direct Start	VS 5a	21
39	Sunny City	E2 5c	2
40	Whitewash	VS 4c	10
41	Gear Freak	VS 4c
	CRUNGE BUTTRESS
43	Vole	VD	13
44	The Cringe	E2 5c	7
45	The Crunge	E1 5c *	16
46	Extinction Crack	VS 4c	18
47	Think Void	E2 5c
48	Chatterley	HVS 5a	5
49	Coulombe	VS 4c	10
50	Moonwalk	VS 4c	6
51	Fading Colours	E2 5b
52	The Fox	HVS 5a
53	23 Skidoo	E2 5c
54	Hooter	HS	4
55	Scum Bag	HVS 5a
56	Un-named Route 1	HVS 5a
57	Squatter's Rights	HVS 5a
	MAIN CLIFF
59	Human Menagerie	E1 5a	8
60	Swinger	HVS 5a, 5a	1
61	Knightsbridge	VS	13
62	Knightsbridge variation	E2 5c	1
63	Pterodactyl	HVS	24
64	Banana Moon	E3 5c	4
65	The Flue	VS 4c *	37
66	One Step Beyond	E2 5c	3
67	Snotty Arete	E3 5c	1
68	Zig-Zag	VD	7
69	Little Neb	HVS 5b	6
70	Softly-Softly	S	31
71	Y Chimneys	HVD	9
72	Yam	HVS 5a	1
73	Jungle Love	E3 5c
74	Imminent Departees	E7 6c **	1
75	Imminent Crisis	E5 6b	1
76	Cutter	S 4a	2
77	Fido's Redemption	HVS 5a, 4c **	26
78	Jugular Start	E1 5b	4
79	High Steppa	E5 5c, 6b *
80	Great Whaler	E2 5b, 5c	1
81	Freedom	E2 5c ***	21
82	Mojo	E1 5b ***	43
83	Crazy Horses	E3 6a **	2
84	Quick Step	E4 6a ***	6
85	Quick Step Direct Finish	E4 6b ***
86	Space Case	E6 6b ***	1
87	Great Wall	E4 5c ***	31
88	Book of Dreams	E4 6a *	1

	Climb name	Grade	x

89	Magnum Opus	E5 6a **
90	High Plains Drifter	E3 6a **	2
91	Demolition	VS 4c	3
92	The Texas Shuffle	E2 5c, 4b	1
93	Texas Shuffle Direct Start	E3 6a
94	Washington Waltz	E2 5b, 4b
95	Twisting Chimney	VS 4c	3
96	The Norman Conquest	HVS 5a, 4c	1
97	Neurotic Woodpecker	VS 4c	8
98	Street Stroller	E1
99	Scalar Arete	E4 6a	3
100	Scalar	VS 4c **	16
101	Scalar Direct Start	VS 5a	2
102	Moonwind	E5 6b ***	1
103	The Maiden	E3 5b, 6a
104	Hedera Wall	E3 6a	1
105	Ivy Sepulchre	VS	13
106	Titus	HVS 5a, 4b *	6
107	Wackeroo	E2 5b, 5c	5
108	Wackeroo Direct Finish	E1 5b	1
109	The Hurting	E3 6a	1
110	Mad World	E4 6a	1
111	Space Mountain	E5 6a ***	7
112	Ash Groove	VS 4c	4
113	Sinister Chimney	S 4b *	3
114	Savage the Cabbage	E1 5b
115	Eight-Footed Exercise	HVS 5a
116	The Electric Butterfly	VS 4b	2
117	Glade Arete	VS	2
118	Purple Haze	E3 6a	3
119	The Fun House	E4 6a **
120	Gone With The Gonads	E1 5c	1
121	Thatch	S	6
122	Thatcher Traverse	HVS 5a	1
123	Stretch	VS 4c	5
124	The Space Race	E4 5c, 6a
125	Burgess Wall	E2 5c	7
126	Burgess Wall Right Hand	E4 6a, 5c *	1
127	Man Alive Direct Start	E3 6a *	1
128	Panorama Direct Start	E3 6b *
129	Panorama	E3 6b, 6a *	2
130	Man Alive	E1 5b	2
131	The Groan	E3 5c, 6a	3
132	The Arete	VS 4c	5
133	Square Cut Chimney	HS 4c	2
134	Square Cut Chimney Direct Finish	HVS 5a *
135	Duchess	HVS 5a *	17
136	Duchess Direct Start	HVS 5a *	1
137	Sunset Strip	HVS 5a *	10
138	Sunset Strip Direct Start	HVS 4c
139	Autobahn	E3 5c
140	Route 66	VS 4c **	27
141	Manhattan	E5 6a **	5
142	Manhattan Left Hand	E4 6a *
143	Sangfroid	HVS 5a **	11
144	Sangfroid Direct	E2 5c	13
145	THe Snake	E2 5c, 5c **	11
146	The Snake Variations	E3 5c
147	The People Mover	E5 6b, 6c	1
148	Stripper	S	2
149	Sour Grapes	E2	1
150	Di's Delight	E2 5b
151	Top Cat	VS	4
152	Zonesthesia	E1 5a, 5a	1
	TWO TIER BUTTRESS
	LOWER TIER
155	Limestone Cowboy	S	2
156	Making Memories	E2 5c
157	Making Movies	E3 6a *	2
158	Skateaway	E3 6a, 5a *	1
159	Eastbound Train	HVS 5a	1
160	Rock On	S
161	Face Value	VS 4c
162	Jackdaw Chimney	VD	2
163	Romeo	VS 4c	1
164	Juliet	E1 5b
165	Amateur Dramatics	E2 5c
	UPPER TIER
167	Into The Gap	E3 5c
168	Good Friday Groove	E1 5b
169	Notta Bleck	M
170	Physical Diagnostic	E3 6a, 5a
171	Napalm Sunday	E4 6b
172	The Black Hole	E4 5c *
173	Livingstone, I Presume?	E4 6a *
174	Bush Doctor	E2
175	Bush Rush	VS 4b
176	Electric Avenue	E1 5b

Joe Brown (Capel Curig)
Betwys y Coed, GWYNEDD
www.joe-brown.com

Advertise here

Access notes
* A new Access Agreement has been negotiated with the local farmer and it is essential that climbers park only in the designated place above the crag.

Do not park on the verges off the Issalt Road � otherwise access will be lost. The correct parking is located at a hairpin bend off the Trawscoed Road, in a field above the crag at OS Grid 902(5) 764(5).

To get to this spot, drive along the Isallt Road below the escarpment, passing Plas Newydd Caravan Park. At 2 km beyond the caravan park, follow the road as it bends to the right to pass a Chapel on the right. At the following T-junction, turn right and proceed along Dolwen Rd. for approximately 200m until a sharp right turn along Trawscoed Rd. Pass along Trawscoed Rd. for approximately 900m (the last 100m are quite rough) until a sharp right hand hairpin with two gates on the left. Go through the metal gate and park on the grass either side of the farmers track/North Wales Footpath. The field quickly drops away towards the crag, so take care not to park too far down the slope.

Accessing the crag from the agreed parking is easy and convenient - walk from down the inclined field and head for a stile in the right hand corner. This will take you directly into the left hand sections of the crag.

Directions: lies 3 miles E of Colwyn Bay. Take the A55 coast road E from Colwyn Bay. After 2 miles turn off to Llanddulas onto the B5443 (may be called the A547). After 0.2mi, turn R up the valley by the river. Continue for just over half a mile: the crag on the right. Two-Tier Buttress is 500 yards back along the road from here.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer michael burrows

USER FEEDBACK

I'm afraid even the limited new access (as per recent update) looks doubtful. We climbed on the r-hand edge of the crag last week, parked as per BMC guidance and were unobtrusive to the point of silence. Half way up Sangfroid (a legitimate route, as we understood it - outside the central area and beyond the stile, well to the right of Purple Haze) we were forced to lower off after an unseen individual hurled some quite unpleasant sustained abuse at us from below the trees. We left without confrontation, but as a local who started climbing in 1988 and has therefore never climbed on this crag before, it's a pretty distressing state of affairs!
simongwyn