Many routes in the middle and higher grades up to 100ft in height, a low lying cliff that drys quickly after rain and has much better weather than Snowdonia.
The Great Wall area merited the Ken Wilson treatment in Extreme Rock.
Not to be confused with Craig-y-Forwen which is at a totally different location (Worlds End).
The BMC have recently negotiated an acccess agreement with the local farmer after a 20 year ban.
Unfortunately, there has now arisen a dispute over ownership of the main Cliff area between Human Menagerie and Purple Haze. Plas Newydd believe their deeds include this part of the crag and they are not prepared to allow climbers onto the crag.
Aside from this, the single biggest issue is the parking.
The landowner is quite clear on the following point - if cars are parked along the road below the crag he will withdraw access again.
It is vital that only the parking space provided at the top of the crag is used. This is accessed via Trawscoad road from the village of Llysfaen.
Currently the spot is fairly muddy. If it seems to be full, either park sensibly in the village and walk, or climb somewhere else for the day. Work to improve the parking spot is planned, please be patient in the meantime.
DO NOT PARK BELOW THE CRAG.
Finally, be aware that sound really carries in this valley, try to keep a low profile and noise to a minimum.
Defecating, littering and profanity should also be kept to a minimum.
Copies of the Andy Pollitt guide covering Craig Y Forwyn are available directly from Cordee.
* A new Access Agreement has been negotiated with the local farmer and it is essential that climbers park only in the designated place above the crag.
Do not park on the verges off the Issalt Road – otherwise access will be lost. The correct parking is located at a hairpin bend off the Trawscoed Road, in a field above the crag at OS Grid 902(5) 764(5).
To get to this spot, drive along the Isallt Road below the escarpment, passing Plas Newydd Caravan Park. At 2 km beyond the caravan park, follow the road as it bends to the right to pass a Chapel on the right. At the following T-junction, turn right and proceed along Dolwen Rd. for approximately 200m until a sharp right turn along Trawscoed Rd. Pass along Trawscoed Rd. for approximately 900m (the last 100m are quite rough) until a sharp right hand hairpin with two gates on the left. Go through the metal gate and park on the grass either side of the farmers track/North Wales Footpath. The field quickly drops away towards the crag, so take care not to park too far down the slope.
Accessing the crag from the agreed parking is easy and convenient - walk from down the inclined field and head for a stile in the right hand corner. This will take you directly into the left hand sections of the crag.
Directions: lies 3 miles E of Colwyn Bay. Take the A55 coast road E from Colwyn Bay. After 2 miles turn off to Llanddulas onto the B5443 (may be called the A547). After 0.2mi, turn R up the valley by the river. Continue for just over half a mile: the crag on the right. Two-Tier Buttress is 500 yards back along the road from here.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
|LEFT HAND SECTION|
|5||Naughty Bits||S 3c||10|
|6||Beeline Direct||VS 4c||10|
|10||King Rat||VS 4c||1|
|14||Legal Separation||E2 5c||1|
|15||Hugh's Groove||E3 5c||1|
|16||Dyslexic's Delite||VS 4c||2|
|17||Un-named Route 3||HVS 5a||3|
|18||Heart Attack||HS 4b||19|
|19||Un-named Route 4||VD||12|
|SPIKE DRIVER BUTTRESS|
|21||Larks A Bumbly Arete||HVS 5a||2|
|22||Larks a Bumbly||S 4a *||75|
|23||The Last Grasp||E2 5b *||12|
|24||Milky Way||HS 4b||5|
|25||Kiwi Direct Start||E1 5b||8|
|27||Spike Driver||E2 5c||1|
|31||Plas Newydd Groove||VS 4c||32|
|32||Paul's Wall||E1 5b||2|
|33||Ivy Line||HS 4a||3|
|34||Dave's Wall||E2 5c|
|35||Arian||HS 4b *||46|
|36||Arian Direct Finish||VS 4c||23|
|37||Arian Superdirect Finish||E1 5b||2|
|38||Arian Direct Start||VS 5a||24|
|39||Sunny City||E2 5c||3|
|41||Gear Freak||VS 4c|
|44||The Cringe||E2 5c||8|
|45||The Crunge||E1 5c *||22|
|46||Extinction Crack||VS 4c||19|
|47||Think Void||E2 5c|
|49||Coulombe||VS 4c **||20|
|51||Fading Colours||E2 5b|
|52||The Fox||HVS 5a|
|53||23 Skidoo||E2 5c|
|55||Scum Bag||HVS 5a|
|56||Un-named Route 1||HVS 5a|
|57||Squatter's Rights||HVS 5a|
|59||Human Menagerie||E1 5a||8|
|60||Swinger||HVS 5a, 5a||1|
|62||Knightsbridge variation||E2 5c||1|
|64||Banana Moon||E3 5c||4|
|65||The Flue||VS 4c *||43|
|66||One Step Beyond||E2 5c||5|
|67||Snotty Arete||E3 5c||1|
|69||Little Neb||HVS 5b||7|
|73||Jungle Love||E3 5c|
|74||Imminent Departees||E7 6c **||3|
|75||Imminent Crisis||E5 6b||1|
|77||Fido's Redemption||HVS 5a, 4c **||33|
|78||Jugular Start||E1 5b||4|
|79||High Steppa||E5 5c, 6b *|
|80||Great Whaler||E2 5b, 5c||2|
|81||Freedom||E2 5c ***||35|
|82||Mojo||E1 5b ***||72|
|83||Crazy Horses||E3 6a **||3|
|84||Quick Step||E4 6a ***||14|
|85||Quick Step Direct Finish||E4 6b ***|
|86||Space Case||E6 6b ***||8|
|87||Great Wall||E4 5c ***||55|
|88||Book of Dreams||E4 6a *||1|
|89||Magnum Opus||E5 6a **|
|90||High Plains Drifter||E3 6a **||3|
|92||The Texas Shuffle||E2 5c, 4b||1|
|93||Texas Shuffle Direct Start||E3 6a|
|94||Washington Waltz||E2 5b, 4b|
|95||Twisting Chimney||VS 4c||4|
|96||The Norman Conquest||HVS 5a, 4c||1|
|97||Neurotic Woodpecker||VS 4c||13|
|99||Scalar Arete||E4 6a||4|
|100||Scalar||VS 4c **||25|
|101||Scalar Direct Start||VS 5a||3|
|102||Moonwind||E5 6b ***||2|
|103||The Maiden||E3 5b, 6a||1|
|104||Hedera Wall||E3 6a||1|
|106||Titus||HVS 5a, 4b *||9|
|107||Wackeroo||E2 5b, 5c||9|
|108||Wackeroo Direct Finish||E1 5b||1|
|109||The Hurting||E3 6a||1|
|110||Mad World||E4 6a||1|
|111||Space Mountain||E5 6a ***||10|
|112||Ash Groove||VS 4c||4|
|113||Sinister Chimney||S 4b *||3|
|114||Savage the Cabbage||E1 5b|
|115||Eight-Footed Exercise||HVS 5a|
|116||The Electric Butterfly||VS 4b||2|
|118||Purple Haze||E3 6a||3|
|119||The Fun House||E4 6a **|
|120||Gone With The Gonads||E1 5c||1|
|122||Thatcher Traverse||HVS 5a||1|
|124||The Space Race||E4 5c, 6a||2|
|125||Burgess Wall||E2 5c||22|
|126||Burgess Wall Right Hand||E4 6a, 5c *||2|
|127||Man Alive Direct Start||E3 6a *||1|
|128||Panorama Direct Start||E3 6b *|
|129||Panorama||E3 6b, 6a *||2|
|130||Man Alive||E1 5b||2|
|131||The Groan||E3 5c, 6a||4|
|132||The Arete||VS 4c||5|
|133||Square Cut Chimney||HS 4c||2|
|134||Square Cut Chimney Direct Finish||HVS 5a *|
|135||Duchess||HVS 5a *||22|
|136||Duchess Direct Start||HVS 5a *||1|
|137||Sunset Strip||HVS 5a *||26|
|138||Sunset Strip Direct Start||HVS 4c|
|140||Route 66||VS 4c **||47|
|141||Katie's delight||E8 6c ***||1|
|142||Manhattan||E5 6a **||8|
|143||Manhattan Left Hand||E4 6a *|
|144||Sangfroid||HVS 5a **||33|
|145||Sangfroid Direct||E2 5c||31|
|146||THe Snake||E2 5c, 5c **||35|
|147||The Snake Variations||E3 5c||1|
|148||The People Mover||E5 6b, 6c||2|
|151||Di's Delight||E2 5b|
|153||Zonesthesia||E1 5a, 5a||1|
|TWO TIER BUTTRESS|
|157||Making Memories||E2 5c|
|158||Making Movies||E3 6a *||3|
|159||Skateaway||E3 6a, 5a *||1|
|160||Eastbound Train||HVS 5a||1|
|162||Face Value||VS 4c|
|166||Amateur Dramatics||E2 5c|
|168||Into The Gap||E3 5c|
|169||Good Friday Groove||E1 5b|
|171||Physical Diagnostic||E3 6a, 5a|
|172||Napalm Sunday||E4 6b|
|173||The Black Hole||E4 5c *|
|174||Livingstone, I Presume?||E4 6a *|
|176||Bush Rush||VS 4b|
|177||Electric Avenue||E1 5b|
|USER FEEDBACK||Login as Existing User to add your comments|
|I'm afraid even the limited new access (as per recent update) looks doubtful. We climbed on the r-hand edge of the crag last week, parked as per BMC guidance and were unobtrusive to the point of silence. Half way up Sangfroid (a legitimate route, as we understood it - outside the central area and beyond the stile, well to the right of Purple Haze) we were forced to lower off after an unseen individual hurled some quite unpleasant sustained abuse at us from below the trees. We left without confrontation, but as a local who started climbing in 1988 and has therefore never climbed on this crag before, it's a pretty distressing state of affairs!|
simongwyn - 30/Jun/09