Craig y Forwyn

Climbs 170 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 110m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
Many routes in the middle and higher grades up to 100ft in height, a low lying cliff that drys quickly after rain and has much better weather than Snowdonia.

The Great Wall area merited the Ken Wilson treatment in Extreme Rock.

Not to be confused with Craig-y-Forwen which is at a totally different location (Worlds End).


The BMC have recently negotiated an acccess agreement with the local farmer after a 20 year ban.

Unfortunately, there has now arisen a dispute over ownership of the main Cliff area between Human Menagerie and Purple Haze. Plas Newydd believe their deeds include this part of the crag and they are not prepared to allow climbers onto the crag.

Aside from this, the single biggest issue is the parking.

The landowner is quite clear on the following point - if cars are parked along the road below the crag he will withdraw access again.

It is vital that only the parking space provided at the top of the crag is used. This is accessed via Trawscoad road from the village of Llysfaen.

Currently the spot is fairly muddy. If it seems to be full, either park sensibly in the village and walk, or climb somewhere else for the day. Work to improve the parking spot is planned, please be patient in the meantime.


Finally, be aware that sound really carries in this valley, try to keep a low profile and noise to a minimum.

Defecating, littering and profanity should also be kept to a minimum.

Copies of the Andy Pollitt guide covering Craig Y Forwyn are available directly from Cordee.

Approach notes
* A new Access Agreement has been negotiated with the local farmer and it is essential that climbers park only in the designated place above the crag.

Do not park on the verges off the Issalt Road

Access notes
* A new Access Agreement has been negotiated with the local farmer and it is essential that climbers park only in the designated place above the crag.

Do not park on the verges off the Issalt Road otherwise access will be lost. The correct parking is located at a hairpin bend off the Trawscoed Road, in a field above the crag at OS Grid 902(5) 764(5).

To get to this spot, drive along the Isallt Road below the escarpment, passing Plas Newydd Caravan Park. At 2 km beyond the caravan park, follow the road as it bends to the right to pass a Chapel on the right. At the following T-junction, turn right and proceed along Dolwen Rd. for approximately 200m until a sharp right turn along Trawscoed Rd. Pass along Trawscoed Rd. for approximately 900m (the last 100m are quite rough) until a sharp right hand hairpin with two gates on the left. Go through the metal gate and park on the grass either side of the farmers track/North Wales Footpath. The field quickly drops away towards the crag, so take care not to park too far down the slope.

Accessing the crag from the agreed parking is easy and convenient - walk from down the inclined field and head for a stile in the right hand corner. This will take you directly into the left hand sections of the crag.

Directions: lies 3 miles E of Colwyn Bay. Take the A55 coast road E from Colwyn Bay. After 2 miles turn off to Llanddulas onto the B5443 (may be called the A547). After 0.2mi, turn R up the valley by the river. Continue for just over half a mile: the crag on the right. Two-Tier Buttress is 500 yards back along the road from here.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

North Wales Limestone (2014),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2CervixS 2
3KiteD 4
4ClingHS 4a 5
5Naughty BitsS 3c 10
6Beeline DirectVS 4c 12
7BeelineHS 10
8OttoVD 8
9TemptationVD 7
10King RatVS 4c 1
11ClaustrophobiaM 8
12Golden GateD 22
13AnnS 4a 11
14Legal SeparationE2 5c 1
15Hugh's GrooveE3 5c 1
16Dyslexic's DeliteVS 4c 2
17Un-named Route 3HVS 5a 3
18Heart AttackHS 4b 19
19Un-named Route 4VD 13
21Larks A Bumbly AreteHVS 5a 2
22Larks a BumblyS 4a *77
23The Last GraspE2 5b *12
24Milky WayHS 4b 5
25Kiwi Direct StartE1 5b 8
26KiwiVS 4b 46
27Spike DriverE2 5c 1
28HairlineHVS 5a 17
29Abseil grooveVD 2
30TempestVS 4c 4
31Plas Newydd GrooveVS 4c 32
32Paul's WallE1 5b 2
33Ivy LineHS 4a 3
34Dave's WallE2 5c  
35ArianHS 4b *46
36Arian Direct FinishVS 4c 23
37Arian Superdirect FinishE1 5b 2
38Arian Direct StartVS 5a 24
39Sunny CityE2 5c 3
40WhitewashVS 4c 10
41Gear FreakVS 4c  
43VoleVD 14
44The CringeE2 5c 8
45The CrungeE1 5c *22
46Extinction CrackVS 4c 19
47Think VoidE2 5c  
48ChatterleyHVS 5a 7
49CoulombeVS 4c **21
50MoonwalkVS 4c 8
51Fading ColoursE2 5b  
52The FoxHVS 5a  
5323 SkidooE2 5c  
54HooterHS 5
55Scum BagHVS 5a  
56Un-named Route 1HVS 5a  
57Squatter's RightsHVS 5a  
59Human MenagerieE1 5a 8
60SwingerHVS 5a, 5a 1
61KnightsbridgeVS 15
62Knightsbridge variationE2 5c 1
63PterodactylHVS 29
64Banana MoonE3 5c 4
65The FlueVS 4c *43
66One Step BeyondE2 5c 5
67Snotty AreteE3 5c 1
68Zig-ZagVD 8
69Little NebHVS 5b 7
70Softly-SoftlyS 36
71Y ChimneysHVD 12
72YamHVS 5a 1
73Jungle LoveE3 5c  
74Imminent DeparteesE7 6c **3
75Imminent CrisisE5 6b 1
76CutterS 4a 3
77Fido's RedemptionHVS 5a, 4c **37
78Jugular StartE1 5b 4
79High SteppaE5 5c, 6b * 
80Great WhalerE2 5b, 5c 2
81FreedomE2 5c ***37
82MojoE1 5b ***77
83Crazy HorsesE3 6a **3
84Quick StepE4 6a ***14
85Quick Step Direct FinishE4 6b *** 
86Space CaseE6 6b ***8
87Great WallE4 5c ***59
88Book of DreamsE4 6a *1
89Magnum OpusE5 6a ** 
90High Plains DrifterE3 6a **3
91DemolitionVS 4c 3
92The Texas ShuffleE2 5c, 4b 1
93Texas Shuffle Direct StartE3 6a  
94Washington WaltzE2 5b, 4b  
95Twisting ChimneyVS 4c 4
96The Norman ConquestHVS 5a, 4c 1
97Neurotic WoodpeckerVS 4c 13
98Street StrollerE1  
99Scalar AreteE4 6a 4
100ScalarVS 4c **26
101Scalar Direct StartVS 5a 3
102MoonwindE5 6b ***2
103The MaidenE3 5b, 6a 1
104Hedera WallE3 6a 1
105Ivy SepulchreVS 17
106TitusHVS 5a, 4b *9
107WackerooE2 5b, 5c 9
108Wackeroo Direct FinishE1 5b 1
109The HurtingE3 6a 1
110Mad WorldE4 6a 1
111Space MountainE5 6a ***10
112Ash GrooveVS 4c 4
113Sinister ChimneyS 4b *3
114Savage the CabbageE1 5b  
115Eight-Footed ExerciseHVS 5a  
116The Electric ButterflyVS 4b 2
117Glade AreteVS 4
118Purple HazeE3 6a 3
119The Fun HouseE4 6a ** 
120Gone With The GonadsE1 5c 1
121ThatchS 10
122Thatcher TraverseHVS 5a 1
123StretchVS 4c 7
124The Space RaceE4 5c, 6a 2
125Burgess WallE2 5c 22
126Burgess Wall Right HandE4 6a, 5c *2
127Man Alive Direct StartE3 6a *1
128Panorama Direct StartE3 6b * 
129PanoramaE3 6b, 6a *2
130Man AliveE1 5b 2
131The GroanE3 5c, 6a 4
132The AreteVS 4c 6
133Square Cut ChimneyHS 4c 2
134Square Cut Chimney Direct FinishHVS 5a * 
135DuchessHVS 5a *23
136Duchess Direct StartHVS 5a *1
137Sunset StripHVS 5a *28
138Sunset Strip Direct StartHVS 4c  
139AutobahnE3 5c  
140Route 66VS 4c **48
141Katie's delightE8 6c ***1
142ManhattanE5 6a **8
143Manhattan Left HandE4 6a * 
144SangfroidHVS 5a **34
145Sangfroid DirectE2 5c 36
146THe SnakeE2 5c, 5c **35
147The Snake VariationsE3 5c 1
148The People MoverE5 6b, 6c 2
149StripperS 2
150Sour GrapesE2 3
151Di's DelightE2 5b  
152Top CatVS 5
153ZonesthesiaE1 5a, 5a 1
156Limestone CowboyS 2
157Making MemoriesE2 5c  
158Making MoviesE3 6a *3
159SkateawayE3 6a, 5a *1
160Eastbound TrainHVS 5a 1
161Rock OnS  
162Face ValueVS 4c  
163Jackdaw ChimneyVD 2
164RomeoVS 4c 1
165JulietE1 5b  
166Amateur DramaticsE2 5c  
168Into The GapE3 5c  
169Good Friday GrooveE1 5b  
170Notta BleckM  
171Physical DiagnosticE3 6a, 5a  
172Napalm SundayE4 6b  
173The Black HoleE4 5c * 
174Livingstone, I Presume?E4 6a * 
175Bush DoctorE2  
176Bush RushVS 4b  
177Electric AvenueE1 5b  
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I'm afraid even the limited new access (as per recent update) looks doubtful. We climbed on the r-hand edge of the crag last week, parked as per BMC guidance and were unobtrusive to the point of silence. Half way up Sangfroid (a legitimate route, as we understood it - outside the central area and beyond the stile, well to the right of Purple Haze) we were forced to lower off after an unseen individual hurled some quite unpleasant sustained abuse at us from below the trees. We left without confrontation, but as a local who started climbing in 1988 and has therefore never climbed on this crag before, it's a pretty distressing state of affairs!
simongwyn - 30/Jun/09