Climbs 170
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 110m a.s.l
Faces SE

On the crux of imminent Departees © spidey

Crag features

Many routes in the middle and higher grades up to 100ft in height, a low lying cliff that drys quickly after rain and has much better weather than Snowdonia.

The Great Wall area merited the Ken Wilson treatment in Extreme Rock.

Not to be confused with Craig-y-Forwen which is at a totally different location (Worlds End).

ACCESS;

The BMC have recently negotiated an acccess agreement with the local farmer after a 20 year ban.

Unfortunately, there has now arisen a dispute over ownership of the main Cliff area between Human Menagerie and Purple Haze. Plas Newydd believe their deeds include this part of the crag and they are not prepared to allow climbers onto the crag.

Aside from this, the single biggest issue is the parking.

The landowner is quite clear on the following point - if cars are parked along the road below the crag he will withdraw access again.

It is vital that only the parking space provided at the top of the crag is used. This is accessed via Trawscoad road from the village of Llysfaen.

Currently the spot is fairly muddy. If it seems to be full, either park sensibly in the village and walk, or climb somewhere else for the day. Work to improve the parking spot is planned, please be patient in the meantime.

DO NOT PARK BELOW THE CRAG.

Finally, be aware that sound really carries in this valley, try to keep a low profile and noise to a minimum.

Defecating, littering and profanity should also be kept to a minimum.

Copies of the Andy Pollitt guide covering Craig Y Forwyn are available directly from Cordee.

Approach notes

* A new Access Agreement has been negotiated with the local farmer and it is essential that climbers park only in the designated place above the crag.

Do not park on the verges off the Issalt Road

Access Advice

The current access situation at Craig y Forwyn is as follows

  •  CENTRAL SECTION- From just West of Staircase Gully (at the route The Fox), where a smooth wire fence reaches the base of the crag, to Purple Haze– the owner of Plas Newydd Caravan Park has made it be known that HE DOES NOT ALLOW ACCESS OVER THE LAND OR ACCESS FOR CLIMBING ON HIS LAND.  He also actively enforces this restriction on the land that he owns and climbers have been asked to leave by the Police in recent past.
  • RIGHT HAND SECTION (from Purple Haze eastwards towards Two-Tier Buttress, thie ownership of this section of the cliff has recently changed (early 2014) .The views of the new land-owners towards allowing access for climbing are not known and this is being investigated by the BMC.
  • LEFT HAND SECTION (starting from approx. 50 metres left of Staircase Gully, facing the crag to the extreme left side of the crag) -climbing permitted. Formal consent has been obtained to allow the removal of vegetation (ivy and invasive cotoneaster only) from rock-climbs on this section of crag only.
  • Note: The Natural Resources for Wales (NRW) has some concerns about tree clearance and vegetation clearance on and below the crag. The whole crag forms part of an SSSI and the BMC asks climbers not to clear vegetation or improve the path below the crag. Removal or damaging any vegetation without written authority from the NRW and the landowners could lead to criminal proceedings at this site. You should also be aware that sound carries in this valley, so please make every effort not disturb the peace of local residents, i.e. keep your voices down when belaying etc.

Guidebooks

I'm afraid even the limited new access (as per recent update) looks doubtful. We climbed on the r-hand edge of the crag last week, parked as per BMC guidance and were unobtrusive to the point of silence. Half way up Sangfroid (a legitimate route, as we understood it - outside the central area and beyond the stile, well to the right of Purple Haze) we were forced to lower off after an unseen individual hurled some quite unpleasant sustained abuse at us from below the trees. We left without confrontation, but as a local who started climbing in 1988 and has therefore never climbed on this crag before, it's a pretty distressing state of affairs!
simongwyn - 30/Jun/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Left Hand Section 
2CervixS 2
3KiteD 4
4ClingHS 4a 7
5Naughty BitsS 3c 15
6Beeline DirectVS 4c 18
7BeelineHS 13
8OttoVD 11
9TemptationVD 7
10King RatVS 4c 1
11ClaustrophobiaM 8
12Golden GateD 24
13AnnS 4a 15
14Legal SeparationE2 5c 1
15Hugh's GrooveE3 5c 1
16Dyslexic's DeliteVS 4c 2
17Un-named Route 3HVS 5a 3
18Heart Attack
-
HS 4b 21
19Un-named Route 4VD 14
 Spike Driver Buttress 
21Larks A Bumbly AreteHVS 5a 2
22Larks a BumblyS 4a *82
23The Last GraspE2 5b *12
24Milky WayHS 4b 6
25Kiwi Direct StartE1 5b 9
26Kiwi
-
VS 4b 49
27Spike DriverE2 5c 1
28HairlineHVS 5a 17
29Abseil grooveVD 5
30Tempest
-
VS 4c 5
31Plas Newydd Groove
-
VS 4c 36
32Paul's WallE1 5b 2
33Ivy LineHS 4a 3
34Dave's WallE2 5c  
35ArianHS 4b *46
36Arian Direct FinishVS 4c 24
37Arian Superdirect FinishE1 5b 3
38Arian Direct StartVS 5a 27
39Sunny CityE2 5c 3
40WhitewashVS 4c 10
41Gear FreakVS 4c  
 Crunge Buttress 
43VoleVD 14
44The CringeE2 5c 8
45The CrungeE1 5c *25
46Extinction CrackVS 4c 20
47Think VoidE2 5c  
48ChatterleyHVS 5a 7
49CoulombeVS 4c **22
50MoonwalkVS 4c 8
51Fading ColoursE2 5b  
52The FoxHVS 5a  
5323 SkidooE2 5c  
54HooterHS 5
55Scum BagHVS 5a  
56Un-named Route 1HVS 5a  
57Squatter's RightsHVS 5a  
 Main Cliff 
59Human MenagerieE1 5a 8
60SwingerHVS 5a, 5a 1
61Knightsbridge
-
VS 15
62Knightsbridge variationE2 5c 1
63PterodactylHVS 31
64Banana MoonE3 5c 4
65The Flue
-
VS 4c *45
66One Step Beyond
-
E2 5c 5
67Snotty Arete
-
E3 5c 1
68Zig-Zag
-
VD 9
69Little Neb
-
HVS 5b 7
70Softly-Softly
-
S 38
71Y Chimneys
-
HVD 13
72YamHVS 5a 1
73Jungle Love
-
E3 5c  
74Imminent DeparteesE7 6c **3
75Imminent CrisisE5 6b 1
76CutterS 4a 3
77Fido's Redemption
-
HVS 5a, 4c **43
78Jugular Start
-
E1 5b 5
79High SteppaE5 5c, 6b * 
80Great WhalerE2 5b, 5c 2
81FreedomE2 5c ***38
82MojoE1 5b ***91
83Crazy Horses
-
E3 6a **3
84Quick StepE4 6a ***17
85Quick Step Direct FinishE4 6b *** 
86Space CaseE6 6b ***8
87Great WallE4 5c ***87
88Book of DreamsE4 6a *1
89Magnum OpusE5 6a ** 
90High Plains DrifterE3 6a **3
91DemolitionVS 4c 3
92The Texas Shuffle
-
E2 5c, 4b 1
93Texas Shuffle Direct Start
-
E3 6a  
94Washington Waltz
-
E2 5b, 4b  
95Twisting Chimney
-
VS 4c 4
96The Norman ConquestHVS 5a, 4c 1
97Neurotic Woodpecker
-
VS 4c 13
98Street StrollerE1  
99Scalar Arete
-
E4 6a 4
100Scalar
-
VS 4c **29
101Scalar Direct Start
-
VS 5a 4
102MoonwindE5 6b ***2
103The Maiden
-
E3 5b, 6a 1
104Hedera Wall
-
E3 6a 1
105Ivy SepulchreVS 18
106Titus
-
HVS 5a, 4b *10
107Wackeroo
-
E2 5b, 5c 9
108Wackeroo Direct Finish
-
E1 5b 1
109The HurtingE3 6a 1
110Mad World
-
E4 6a 1
111Space MountainE5 6a ***13
112Ash Groove
-
VS 4c 4
113Sinister Chimney
-
S 4b *3
114Savage the Cabbage
-
E1 5b  
115Eight-Footed Exercise
-
HVS 5a  
116The Electric Butterfly
-
VS 4b 2
117Glade Arete
-
VS 4
118Purple Haze
-
E3 6a 3
119The Fun House
-
E4 6a ** 
120Gone With The GonadsE1 5c 1
121Thatch
-
S 10
122Thatcher TraverseHVS 5a 1
123Stretch
-
VS 4c 7
124The Space Race
-
E4 5c, 6a 2
125Burgess Wall
-
E2 5c 24
126Burgess Wall Right Hand
-
E4 6a, 5c *3
127Man Alive Direct Start
-
E3 6a *1
128Panorama Direct Start
-
E3 6b * 
129Panorama
-
E3 6b, 6a *2
130Man Alive
-
E1 5b 2
131The Groan
-
E3 5c, 6a 4
132The Arete
-
VS 4c 6
133Square Cut Chimney
-
HS 4c 2
134Square Cut Chimney Direct Finish
-
HVS 5a * 
135Duchess
-
HVS 5a *28
136Duchess Direct StartHVS 5a *1
137Sunset StripHVS 5a **35
138Sunset Strip Direct StartHVS 4c  
139Autobahn
-
E3 5c  
140Route 66VS 4c **55
141Katie's delightE8 6c ***1
142Manhattan
-
E5 6a **9
143Manhattan Left Hand
-
E4 6a * 
144Sangfroid
-
HVS 5a **41
145Sangfroid Direct
-
E2 5c 45
146THe Snake
-
E2 5c, 5c **43
147The Snake Variations
-
E3 5c 1
148The People Mover
-
E5 6b, 6c 4
149Stripper
-
S 2
150Sour Grapes
-
E2 3
151Di's Delight
-
E2 5b  
152Top Cat
-
VS 5
153ZonesthesiaE1 5a, 5a 1
 TWO TIER BUTTRESS 
 LOWER TIER 
156Limestone Cowboy
-
S 2
157Making Memories
-
E2 5c  
158Making MoviesE3 6a *3
159Skateaway
-
E3 6a, 5a *1
160Eastbound Train
-
HVS 5a 1
161Rock On
-
S  
162Face Value
-
VS 4c  
163Jackdaw Chimney
-
VD 2
164Romeo
-
VS 4c 1
165JulietE1 5b  
166Amateur Dramatics
-
E2 5c  
 UPPER TIER 
168Into The Gap
-
E3 5c  
169Good Friday Groove
-
E1 5b  
170Notta BleckM  
171Physical DiagnosticE3 6a, 5a  
172Napalm SundayE4 6b  
173The Black HoleE4 5c * 
174Livingstone, I Presume?E4 6a * 
175Bush DoctorE2  
176Bush RushVS 4b  
177Electric Avenue
-
E1 5b  

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