Altitude 110m a.s.l
On the crux of imminent Departees © spidey
Many routes in the middle and higher grades up to 100ft in height, a low lying cliff that drys quickly after rain and has much better weather than Snowdonia.
The Great Wall area merited the Ken Wilson treatment in Extreme Rock.
Not to be confused with Craig-y-Forwen which is at a totally different location (Worlds End).
The BMC have recently negotiated an acccess agreement with the local farmer after a 20 year ban.
Unfortunately, there has now arisen a dispute over ownership of the main Cliff area between Human Menagerie and Purple Haze. Plas Newydd believe their deeds include this part of the crag and they are not prepared to allow climbers onto the crag.
Aside from this, the single biggest issue is the parking.
The landowner is quite clear on the following point - if cars are parked along the road below the crag he will withdraw access again.
It is vital that only the parking space provided at the top of the crag is used. This is accessed via Trawscoad road from the village of Llysfaen.
Currently the spot is fairly muddy. If it seems to be full, either park sensibly in the village and walk, or climb somewhere else for the day. Work to improve the parking spot is planned, please be patient in the meantime.
DO NOT PARK BELOW THE CRAG.
Finally, be aware that sound really carries in this valley, try to keep a low profile and noise to a minimum.
Defecating, littering and profanity should also be kept to a minimum.
Copies of the Andy Pollitt guide covering Craig Y Forwyn are available directly from Cordee.
* A new Access Agreement has been negotiated with the local farmer and it is essential that climbers park only in the designated place above the crag.
Do not park on the verges off the Issalt Road
|I'm afraid even the limited new access (as per recent update) looks doubtful. We climbed on the r-hand edge of the crag last week, parked as per BMC guidance and were unobtrusive to the point of silence. Half way up Sangfroid (a legitimate route, as we understood it - outside the central area and beyond the stile, well to the right of Purple Haze) we were forced to lower off after an unseen individual hurled some quite unpleasant sustained abuse at us from below the trees. We left without confrontation, but as a local who started climbing in 1988 and has therefore never climbed on this crag before, it's a pretty distressing state of affairs!|
simongwyn - 30/Jun/09