Climbs 68
Rocktype Dolerite

Faces S

Pain Pillar © Lawrie Brand

Crag features

This sea-cliff is easily accessed from Aberdour and offers a good number of middle-grade climbs. It faces south, dries quickly and is very popular on summer evenings.

Best Route : Pain Pillar VS 4c

Approach notes

Tidal

Beware of nesting seas birds during the summer months.

Only the west end of the crag is accessible during high-tide.

Hi Mike. Look carefully further back towards the fence. You might find something useful.
Hay - 14/Jun/14
Be careful with the belay at the top of Pain Pillar. One of the fins of rock has been removed and there doesn't seem to be much holding in another one!
Mike-W-99 - 17/Apr/14
Noticed yesterday that the two bolts at the top have been removed which makes setting up belays more tricky. Any ideas why?
CyberTaff - 15/Sep/13
Please careful when belaying off the tree at the top of Asinine/The Lily/Gunga Din etc as one of the branches has been sawn through and is no longer attached. Make sure you attached yourself to the solid branch!!!
Fiona Reid - 25/Apr/13
the bottom of the crag is dry from ~3 hours either side of low tide. If the tide is higher the choice is between an exciting traverse in, or the shorter routes at either end.
ligaya - 09/Jul/07
Asinine is every bit as good as Pain Pillar, but not 5a.
Jamie B. - 11/Sep/05
yip this crag is first class. you can even try deep water soloing in the summer months if your mad enough
maximus altitudus - 27/Dec/04
...I forgot to mention the bakery in Aberdour - simply a special place...
Reuben - 17/Mar/03
The best crag in Eastern Scotland for access by public transport, and very amenable for the biginner. The whole place feels very friendly, with good holds, protection and surprisingly rough rock. The place also has a great outlook, and routes are very enjoyable - not just Pain Pillar. The VS and HVS lines are very good, Guano would be a good first HVS lead, and the climbs out of the alcove on the west of the crag are lovely, Cranium Crack. The crag can catch the wind, but can also be sunny when Edinburgh isn't.
Reuben - 17/Mar/03
Excellent climbing in the middle grades but can be loose in places so caution required.
Rooster - 25/Jan/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Fish Head AreteVD *533
2Fish Head WallVD 163
3Fish Head Wall (Direct Finish)S 68
4Ugh!HS *431
5SacrilegeHVS 5a 21
6Eech
-
VS 4b *164
7Squirrel SlabVS 5a *214
8Weasel WallE2 5c 15
9Garlic BreadE2 6a 4
10PizzaE2 5c 4
11Cranium CrackVS 4c, 4c *214
12Conquistador CrackVS 5a *133
13The GroperHVS 5a 35
14Stomach AcheVS 4b *134
15The BeastHS 4c 126
16Gismo DirectHVS 5a *55
17GismoVS 4c *144
18Pain PillarVS 4c ***1070
19Gaucho DirectHVS 5a **43
20GauchoHVS 5a **428
21Psylocible
-
E2 5a 1
22Rebel's GrooveVS 5a *123
23SakiVS 4c *226
24Short CircuitVS 5a *27
25Slack Alice
-
HS 113
26Brutus
-
HS 75
27Popeye
-
E1 5a 1
28Torment
-
HS 32
29The DwarfE1 5b *22
30Guano Variation
-
E2 5b 6
31GuanoVS 5a **393
32Ganja
-
VD 218
33The Chimney
-
VD 135
34The Chimney Direct FinishS 43
35Chimney Arete
-
VD 102
36AsinineVS 5a **507
37The AreteHVS 5a 63
38The LillyS **625
39Gunga DinS **471
40Crusader
-
HS 89
41SaracenVS 4c *270
42Toerag's Wall (Direct Start)HVS 5a *98
43Toerag's WallS 237
44Hip ReplacementE1 5b 4
45DipteraVS 4c 79
46Escalator
-
VD *296
47Tink
-
S 81
48Aaron's Way
-
S 17
49Hallelujah Wall
-
HS *485
50Rib and Groove
-
HS 26
51The Whang
-
D *132
52Flake and Wall
-
S *297
53Flake and Wall (Direct Finish)
-
S *54
54Five o'clock Shadow Arete
-
HVS 5a 3
55Guillemot Head Mush
-
VS 5a 7
56Shadow Corner
-
S 103
57Destiny Groove
-
S *221
58The Dreeping Beak
-
E1 5c 23
59UrmiVS 4c *145
60MaureenS 170
61Welly Wall
-
VD 228
62SerendipityHVS 5a 33
63EurekaVS 5a *214
64Where Were You?
-
E2 5b 13
65Termination
-
VS 4c 51
66The Low GirdleVS 4c *59
67The High Girdle
-
HVS 5b *24

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