Climbs 68 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
This sea-cliff is easily accessed from Aberdour and offers a good number of middle-grade climbs. It faces south, dries quickly and is very popular on summer evenings.

Best Route : Pain Pillar VS 4c

Approach notes

Beware of nesting seas birds during the summer months.

Only the west end of the crag is accessible during high-tide.

Lowland Outcrops (2005)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Fish Head AreteVD *507
2Fish Head WallVD 159
3Fish Head Wall (Direct Finish)S 64
4Ugh!HS *413
5SacrilegeHVS 5a 20
6EechVS 4b *157
7Squirrel SlabVS 5a *207
8Weasel WallE2 5c 14
9Garlic BreadE2 6a 4
10PizzaE2 5c 4
11Cranium CrackVS 4c, 4c *207
12Conquistador CrackVS 5a *130
13The GroperHVS 5a 34
14Stomach AcheVS 4b *132
15The BeastHS 4c 123
16Gismo DirectHVS 5a *52
17GismoVS 4c *138
18Pain PillarVS 4c ***989
19Gaucho DirectHVS 5a **41
20GauchoHVS 5a **392
21PsylocibleE2 5a 1
22Rebel's GrooveVS 5a *118
23SakiVS 4c *215
24Short CircuitVS 5a *27
25Slack AliceHS 110
26BrutusHS 72
27PopeyeE1 5a 1
28TormentHS 31
29The DwarfE1 5b *22
30Guano VariationE2 5b 6
31GuanoVS 5a **380
32GanjaVD 213
33The ChimneyVD 132
34The Chimney Direct FinishS 41
35Chimney AreteVD 97
36AsinineVS 5a **469
37The AreteHVS 5a 61
38The LillyS **594
39Gunga DinS **459
40CrusaderHS 87
41SaracenVS 4c *262
42Toerag's Wall (Direct Start)HVS 5a *97
43Toerag's WallS 230
44Hip ReplacementE1 5b 4
45DipteraVS 4c 73
46EscalatorVD *282
47TinkS 77
48Aaron's WayS 17
49Hallelujah WallHS *459
50Rib and GrooveHS 25
51The WhangD *129
52Flake and WallS *290
53Flake and Wall (Direct Finish)S *51
54Five o'clock Shadow AreteHVS 5a 2
55Guillemot Head MushVS 5a 7
56Shadow CornerS 99
57Destiny GrooveS *211
58The Dreeping BeakE1 5c 23
59UrmiVS 4c *141
60MaureenS 165
61Welly WallVD 219
62SerendipityHVS 5a 30
63EurekaVS 5a *210
64Where Were You?E2 5b 11
65TerminationVS 4c 49
66The Low GirdleVS 4c *55
67The High GirdleHVS 5b *21
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mike-W-99

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Hi Mike. Look carefully further back towards the fence. You might find something useful.
Hay - 14/Jun/14
Be careful with the belay at the top of Pain Pillar. One of the fins of rock has been removed and there doesn't seem to be much holding in another one!
Mike-W-99 - 17/Apr/14
Noticed yesterday that the two bolts at the top have been removed which makes setting up belays more tricky. Any ideas why?
CyberTaff - 15/Sep/13
Please careful when belaying off the tree at the top of Asinine/The Lily/Gunga Din etc as one of the branches has been sawn through and is no longer attached. Make sure you attached yourself to the solid branch!!!
Fiona Reid - 25/Apr/13
the bottom of the crag is dry from ~3 hours either side of low tide. If the tide is higher the choice is between an exciting traverse in, or the shorter routes at either end.
ligaya - 09/Jul/07
Asinine is every bit as good as Pain Pillar, but not 5a.
Jamie B. - 11/Sep/05
yip this crag is first class. you can even try deep water soloing in the summer months if your mad enough
maximus altitudus - 27/Dec/04
...I forgot to mention the bakery in Aberdour - simply a special place...
Reuben - 17/Mar/03
The best crag in Eastern Scotland for access by public transport, and very amenable for the biginner. The whole place feels very friendly, with good holds, protection and surprisingly rough rock. The place also has a great outlook, and routes are very enjoyable - not just Pain Pillar. The VS and HVS lines are very good, Guano would be a good first HVS lead, and the climbs out of the alcove on the west of the crag are lovely, Cranium Crack. The crag can catch the wind, but can also be sunny when Edinburgh isn't.
Reuben - 17/Mar/03
Excellent climbing in the middle grades but can be loose in places so caution required.
Rooster - 25/Jan/03