Climbs 68 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
This sea-cliff is easily accessed from Aberdour and offers a good number of middle-grade climbs. It faces south, dries quickly and is very popular on summer evenings.

Best Route : Pain Pillar VS 4c

Access notes

Beware of nesting seas birds during the summer months.

Only the west end of the crag is accessible during high-tide.

Lowland Outcrops (2005)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Fish Head AreteVD *486
2Fish Head WallVD 149
3Fish Head Wall (Direct Finish)S 60
4Ugh!HS *390
5SacrilegeHVS 5a 19
6EechVS 4b *147
7Squirrel SlabVS 5a *195
8Weasel WallE2 5c 14
9Garlic BreadE2 6a 4
10PizzaE2 5c 4
11Cranium CrackVS 4c, 4c *202
12Conquistador CrackVS 5a *128
13The GroperHVS 5a 34
14Stomach AcheVS 4b *126
15The BeastHS 4c 114
16Gismo DirectHVS 5a *49
17GismoVS 4c *134
18Pain PillarVS 4c ***929
19Gaucho DirectHVS 5a **37
20GauchoHVS 5a **366
21PsylocibleE2 5a 1
22Rebel's GrooveVS 5a *108
23SakiVS 4c *195
24Short CircuitVS 5a *23
25Slack AliceHS 102
26BrutusHS 70
27PopeyeE1 5a 1
28TormentHS 29
29The DwarfE1 5b *21
30Guano VariationE2 5b 6
31GuanoVS 5a **360
32GanjaVD 206
33The ChimneyVD 125
34The Chimney Direct FinishS 37
35Chimney AreteVD 95
36AsinineVS 5a **448
37The AreteHVS 5a 58
38The LillyS **561
39Gunga DinS **424
40CrusaderHS 83
41SaracenVS 4c *238
42Toerag's Wall (Direct Start)HVS 5a *90
43Toerag's WallS 210
44Hip ReplacementE1 5b 4
45DipteraVS 4c 70
46EscalatorVD *264
47TinkS 72
48Aaron's WayS 16
49Hallelujah WallHS *420
50Rib and GrooveHS 25
51The WhangD *127
52Flake and WallS *270
53Flake and Wall (Direct Finish)S *49
54Five o'clock Shadow AreteHVS 5a 2
55Guillemot Head MushVS 5a 7
56Shadow CornerS 95
57Destiny GrooveS *201
58The Dreeping BeakE1 5c 23
59UrmiVS 4c *138
60MaureenS 153
61Welly WallVD 204
62SerendipityHVS 5a 28
63EurekaVS 5a *196
64Where Were You?E2 5b 11
65TerminationVS 4c 47
66The Low GirdleVS 4c *50
67The High GirdleHVS 5b *21
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Hi Mike. Look carefully further back towards the fence. You might find something useful.
Hay - 14/Jun/14
Be careful with the belay at the top of Pain Pillar. One of the fins of rock has been removed and there doesn't seem to be much holding in another one!
prog99 - 17/Apr/14
Noticed yesterday that the two bolts at the top have been removed which makes setting up belays more tricky. Any ideas why?
CyberTaff - 15/Sep/13
Please careful when belaying off the tree at the top of Asinine/The Lily/Gunga Din etc as one of the branches has been sawn through and is no longer attached. Make sure you attached yourself to the solid branch!!!
Fiona Reid - 25/Apr/13
the bottom of the crag is dry from ~3 hours either side of low tide. If the tide is higher the choice is between an exciting traverse in, or the shorter routes at either end.
ligaya - 09/Jul/07
Asinine is every bit as good as Pain Pillar, but not 5a.
Jamie B. - 11/Sep/05
yip this crag is first class. you can even try deep water soloing in the summer months if your mad enough
maximus altitudus - 27/Dec/04
...I forgot to mention the bakery in Aberdour - simply a special place...
Reuben - 17/Mar/03
The best crag in Eastern Scotland for access by public transport, and very amenable for the biginner. The whole place feels very friendly, with good holds, protection and surprisingly rough rock. The place also has a great outlook, and routes are very enjoyable - not just Pain Pillar. The VS and HVS lines are very good, Guano would be a good first HVS lead, and the climbs out of the alcove on the west of the crag are lovely, Cranium Crack. The crag can catch the wind, but can also be sunny when Edinburgh isn't.
Reuben - 17/Mar/03
Excellent climbing in the middle grades but can be loose in places so caution required.
Rooster - 25/Jan/03