Climbs 68 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
This sea-cliff is easily accessed from Aberdour and offers a good number of middle-grade climbs. It faces south, dries quickly and is very popular on summer evenings.

Best Route : Pain Pillar VS 4c

Access notes

Beware of nesting seas birds during the summer months.

Only the west end of the crag is accessible during high-tide.

Lowland Outcrops (2005)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Fish Head AreteVD *
2Fish Head WallVD
3Fish Head Wall (Direct Finish)S
4Ugh!HS *
5SacrilegeHVS 5a
6EechVS 4b *
7Squirrel SlabVS 5a *
8Weasel WallE2 5c
9Garlic BreadE2 6a
10PizzaE2 5c
11Cranium CrackVS 4c, 4c *
12Conquistador CrackVS 5a *
13The GroperHVS 5a
14Stomach AcheVS 4b *
15The BeastHS 4c
16Gismo DirectHVS 5a *
17GismoVS 4c *
18Pain PillarVS 4c ***
19Gaucho DirectHVS 5a **
20GauchoHVS 5a **
21PsylocibleE2 5a
22Rebel's GrooveVS 5a *
23SakiVS 4c *
24Short CircuitVS 5a *
25Slack AliceHS
27PopeyeE1 5a
29The DwarfE1 5b *
30Guano VariationE2 5b
31GuanoVS 5a **
33The ChimneyVD
34The Chimney Direct FinishS
35Chimney AreteVD
36AsinineVS 5a **
37The AreteHVS 5a
38The LillyS **
39Gunga DinS **
41SaracenVS 4c *
42Toerag's Wall (Direct Start)HVS 5a *
43Toerag's WallS
44Hip ReplacementE1 5b
45DipteraVS 4c
46EscalatorVD *
48Aaron's WayS
49Hallelujah WallHS *
50Rib and GrooveHS
51The WhangD *
52Flake and WallS *
53Flake and Wall (Direct Finish)S *
54Five o'clock Shadow AreteHVS 5a
55Guillemot Head MushVS 5a
56Shadow CornerS
57Destiny GrooveS *
58The Dreeping BeakE1 5c
59UrmiVS 4c *
61Welly WallVD
62SerendipityHVS 5a
63EurekaVS 5a *
64Where Were You?E2 5b
65TerminationVS 4c
66The Low GirdleVS 4c *
67The High GirdleHVS 5b *
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer prog99

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Hi Mike. Look carefully further back towards the fence. You might find something useful.
Hay - 14/Jun/14
Be careful with the belay at the top of Pain Pillar. One of the fins of rock has been removed and there doesn't seem to be much holding in another one!
prog99 - 17/Apr/14
Noticed yesterday that the two bolts at the top have been removed which makes setting up belays more tricky. Any ideas why?
CyberTaff - 15/Sep/13
Please careful when belaying off the tree at the top of Asinine/The Lily/Gunga Din etc as one of the branches has been sawn through and is no longer attached. Make sure you attached yourself to the solid branch!!!
Fiona Reid - 25/Apr/13
the bottom of the crag is dry from ~3 hours either side of low tide. If the tide is higher the choice is between an exciting traverse in, or the shorter routes at either end.
ligaya - 09/Jul/07
Asinine is every bit as good as Pain Pillar, but not 5a.
Jamie B. - 11/Sep/05
yip this crag is first class. you can even try deep water soloing in the summer months if your mad enough
maximus altitudus - 27/Dec/04
...I forgot to mention the bakery in Aberdour - simply a special place...
Reuben - 17/Mar/03
The best crag in Eastern Scotland for access by public transport, and very amenable for the biginner. The whole place feels very friendly, with good holds, protection and surprisingly rough rock. The place also has a great outlook, and routes are very enjoyable - not just Pain Pillar. The VS and HVS lines are very good, Guano would be a good first HVS lead, and the climbs out of the alcove on the west of the crag are lovely, Cranium Crack. The crag can catch the wind, but can also be sunny when Edinburgh isn't.
Reuben - 17/Mar/03
Excellent climbing in the middle grades but can be loose in places so caution required.
Rooster - 25/Jan/03
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 26/Jun/2014

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