Climbs 69
Rocktype Dolerite

Faces S

Pain Pillar © Lawrie Brand

Crag features

This sea-cliff is easily accessed from Aberdour and offers a good number of middle-grade climbs. It faces south, dries quickly and is very popular on summer evenings.

Best Route : Pain Pillar VS 4c

Approach notes

Tidal

Beware of nesting seas birds during the summer months.

Only the west end of the crag is accessible during high-tide.

Hi Mike. Look carefully further back towards the fence. You might find something useful.
Hay - 14/Jun/14
Be careful with the belay at the top of Pain Pillar. One of the fins of rock has been removed and there doesn't seem to be much holding in another one!
Mike-W-99 - 17/Apr/14
Noticed yesterday that the two bolts at the top have been removed which makes setting up belays more tricky. Any ideas why?
CyberTaff - 15/Sep/13
Please careful when belaying off the tree at the top of Asinine/The Lily/Gunga Din etc as one of the branches has been sawn through and is no longer attached. Make sure you attached yourself to the solid branch!!!
Fiona Reid - 25/Apr/13
the bottom of the crag is dry from ~3 hours either side of low tide. If the tide is higher the choice is between an exciting traverse in, or the shorter routes at either end.
ligaya - 09/Jul/07
Asinine is every bit as good as Pain Pillar, but not 5a.
Jamie B. - 11/Sep/05
yip this crag is first class. you can even try deep water soloing in the summer months if your mad enough
maximus altitudus - 27/Dec/04
...I forgot to mention the bakery in Aberdour - simply a special place...
Reuben - 17/Mar/03
The best crag in Eastern Scotland for access by public transport, and very amenable for the biginner. The whole place feels very friendly, with good holds, protection and surprisingly rough rock. The place also has a great outlook, and routes are very enjoyable - not just Pain Pillar. The VS and HVS lines are very good, Guano would be a good first HVS lead, and the climbs out of the alcove on the west of the crag are lovely, Cranium Crack. The crag can catch the wind, but can also be sunny when Edinburgh isn't.
Reuben - 17/Mar/03
Excellent climbing in the middle grades but can be loose in places so caution required.
Rooster - 25/Jan/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Cutglass Corner
-
S 1
2 Doo'cot Wall
-
VD 1
3Fish Head AreteVD *548
4Fish Head WallVD 166
5Fish Head Wall (Direct Finish)S 71
6Ugh!HS *436
7SacrilegeHVS 5a 22
8Eech
-
VS 4b *166
9Squirrel SlabVS 5a *219
10Weasel WallE2 5c 15
11Garlic BreadE2 6a 4
12PizzaE2 5c 4
13Cranium CrackVS 4c, 4c *218
14Conquistador CrackVS 5a *137
15The GroperHVS 5a 37
16Stomach AcheVS 4b *139
17The BeastHS 4c 131
18Gismo DirectHVS 5a *58
19GismoVS 4c *147
20Pain PillarVS 4c ***1061
21Gaucho DirectHVS 5a **43
22GauchoHVS 5a **441
23Psylocible
-
E2 5a 1
24Rebel's GrooveVS 5a *124
25SakiVS 4c *234
26Short CircuitVS 5a *27
27Slack Alice
-
HS 117
28Brutus
-
HS 77
29Popeye
-
E1 5a 1
30Torment
-
HS 32
31The DwarfE1 5b *22
32Guano Variation
-
E2 5b 6
33GuanoVS 5a **407
34Ganja
-
VD 227
35The Chimney
-
VD 136
36The Chimney Direct FinishS 43
37Chimney Arete
-
VD 105
38AsinineVS 5a **500
39The AreteHVS 5a 64
40The LillyS **654
41Gunga DinS **488
42Crusader
-
HS 92
43SaracenVS 4c *279
44Toerag's Wall (Direct Start)HVS 5a *100
45Toerag's WallS 246
46Hip ReplacementE1 5b 4
47DipteraVS 4c 84
48Escalator
-
VD *302
49Tink
-
S 87
50Aaron's Way
-
S 18
51Hallelujah Wall
-
HS *506
52Rib and Groove
-
HS 26
53The Whang
-
D *137
54Flake and Wall
-
S *301
55Flake and Wall (Direct Finish)
-
S *55
56Five o'clock Shadow Arete
-
HVS 5a 3
57Guillemot Head Mush
-
VS 5a 9
58Shadow Corner
-
S 106
59Destiny Groove
-
S *226
60The Dreeping Beak
-
E1 5c 23
61UrmiVS 4c *150
62MaureenS 175
63Welly Wall
-
VD 235
64SerendipityHVS 5a 34
65EurekaVS 5a *219
66Where Were You?
-
E2 5b 13
67Termination
-
VS 4c 52
68The Low GirdleVS 4c *62
69The High Girdle
-
HVS 5b *24

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