Climbs 68 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
This sea-cliff is easily accessed from Aberdour and offers a good number of middle-grade climbs. It faces south, dries quickly and is very popular on summer evenings.

Best Route : Pain Pillar VS 4c

Approach notes

Beware of nesting seas birds during the summer months.

Only the west end of the crag is accessible during high-tide.

Lowland Outcrops (2005)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Fish Head AreteVD *517
2Fish Head WallVD 159
3Fish Head Wall (Direct Finish)S 64
4Ugh!HS *421
5SacrilegeHVS 5a 20
6EechVS 4b *158
7Squirrel SlabVS 5a *211
8Weasel WallE2 5c 14
9Garlic BreadE2 6a 4
10PizzaE2 5c 4
11Cranium CrackVS 4c, 4c *211
12Conquistador CrackVS 5a *131
13The GroperHVS 5a 35
14Stomach AcheVS 4b *133
15The BeastHS 4c 124
16Gismo DirectHVS 5a *52
17GismoVS 4c *141
18Pain PillarVS 4c ***1008
19Gaucho DirectHVS 5a **42
20GauchoHVS 5a **400
21PsylocibleE2 5a 1
22Rebel's GrooveVS 5a *121
23SakiVS 4c *219
24Short CircuitVS 5a *27
25Slack AliceHS 110
26BrutusHS 74
27PopeyeE1 5a 1
28TormentHS 31
29The DwarfE1 5b *22
30Guano VariationE2 5b 6
31GuanoVS 5a **386
32GanjaVD 214
33The ChimneyVD 132
34The Chimney Direct FinishS 41
35Chimney AreteVD 100
36AsinineVS 5a **479
37The AreteHVS 5a 61
38The LillyS **613
39Gunga DinS **468
40CrusaderHS 88
41SaracenVS 4c *267
42Toerag's Wall (Direct Start)HVS 5a *98
43Toerag's WallS 235
44Hip ReplacementE1 5b 4
45DipteraVS 4c 77
46EscalatorVD *290
47TinkS 78
48Aaron's WayS 17
49Hallelujah WallHS *471
50Rib and GrooveHS 25
51The WhangD *131
52Flake and WallS *293
53Flake and Wall (Direct Finish)S *53
54Five o'clock Shadow AreteHVS 5a 2
55Guillemot Head MushVS 5a 7
56Shadow CornerS 100
57Destiny GrooveS *217
58The Dreeping BeakE1 5c 23
59UrmiVS 4c *144
60MaureenS 168
61Welly WallVD 225
62SerendipityHVS 5a 30
63EurekaVS 5a *211
64Where Were You?E2 5b 12
65TerminationVS 4c 50
66The Low GirdleVS 4c *55
67The High GirdleHVS 5b *21
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mike-W-99

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Hi Mike. Look carefully further back towards the fence. You might find something useful.
Hay - 14/Jun/14
Be careful with the belay at the top of Pain Pillar. One of the fins of rock has been removed and there doesn't seem to be much holding in another one!
Mike-W-99 - 17/Apr/14
Noticed yesterday that the two bolts at the top have been removed which makes setting up belays more tricky. Any ideas why?
CyberTaff - 15/Sep/13
Please careful when belaying off the tree at the top of Asinine/The Lily/Gunga Din etc as one of the branches has been sawn through and is no longer attached. Make sure you attached yourself to the solid branch!!!
Fiona Reid - 25/Apr/13
the bottom of the crag is dry from ~3 hours either side of low tide. If the tide is higher the choice is between an exciting traverse in, or the shorter routes at either end.
ligaya - 09/Jul/07
Asinine is every bit as good as Pain Pillar, but not 5a.
Jamie B. - 11/Sep/05
yip this crag is first class. you can even try deep water soloing in the summer months if your mad enough
maximus altitudus - 27/Dec/04
...I forgot to mention the bakery in Aberdour - simply a special place...
Reuben - 17/Mar/03
The best crag in Eastern Scotland for access by public transport, and very amenable for the biginner. The whole place feels very friendly, with good holds, protection and surprisingly rough rock. The place also has a great outlook, and routes are very enjoyable - not just Pain Pillar. The VS and HVS lines are very good, Guano would be a good first HVS lead, and the climbs out of the alcove on the west of the crag are lovely, Cranium Crack. The crag can catch the wind, but can also be sunny when Edinburgh isn't.
Reuben - 17/Mar/03
Excellent climbing in the middle grades but can be loose in places so caution required.
Rooster - 25/Jan/03