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These details were last updated on 14/Dec/2013



Climbs 68 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
This sea-cliff is easily accessed from Aberdour and offers a good number of middle-grade climbs. It faces south, dries quickly and is very popular on summer evenings.

Best Route : Pain Pillar VS 4c

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

8.7mm rain
12 °C
14 kph

4.5mm rain
11 °C
9 kph

0.5mm rain
Mainly cloudy
9 °C
17 kph

7.3mm rain
9 °C
12 kph

1.3mm rain
Mainly cloudy
11 °C
18 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Cairngorms & Monadhliath

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Fish Head AreteVD *414
2Fish Head WallVD 127
3Fish Head Wall (Direct Finish)S 53
4Ugh!HS *345
5SacrilegeHVS 5a 19
6EechVS 4b *127
7Squirrel SlabVS 5a *175
8Weasel WallE2 5c 14
9Garlic BreadE2 6a 4
10PizzaE2 5c 4
11Cranium CrackVS 4c, 4c *180
12Conquistador CrackVS 5a *105
13The GroperHVS 5a 27
14Stomach AcheVS 4b *97
15The BeastHS 4c 98
16Gismo DirectHVS 5a *42
17GismoVS 4c *117
18Pain PillarVS 4c ***812
19Gaucho DirectVS 4c **28
20GauchoHVS 5a **302
21PsylocibleE2 5a 1
22Rebel's GrooveVS 5a *93
23SakiVS 4c *164
24Short CircuitVS 5a *19
25Slack AliceHS 90
26BrutusHS 67
27PopeyeE1 5a  
28TormentHS 29
29The DwarfE1 5b *18
30Guano VariationE2 5b 6
31GuanoVS 5a **314
32GanjaVD 177
33The ChimneyVD 108
34The Chimney Direct FinishS 34
 Climb nameGradex
35Chimney AreteVD 86
36AsinineVS 5a **357
37The AreteHVS 5a 56
38The LillyS **478
39Gunga DinS **361
40CrusaderHS 59
41SaracenVS 4c *201
42Toerag's Wall (Direct Start)HVS 5a *68
43Toerag's WallS 168
44Hip ReplacementE1 5b 4
45DipteraVS 4c 61
46EscalatorVD *227
47TinkS 65
48Aaron's WayS 15
49Hallelujah WallHS *348
50Rib and GrooveHS 22
51The WhangD *110
52Flake and WallS *225
53Flake and Wall (Direct Finish)S *47
54Five o'clock Shadow AreteHVS 5a  
55Guillemot Head MushVS 5a 7
56Shadow CornerS 85
57Destiny GrooveS *169
58The Dreeping BeakE1 5c 21
59UrmiVS 4c *111
60MaureenS 125
61Welly WallVD 172
62SerendipityHVS 5a 25
63EurekaVS 5a *161
64Where Were You?E2 5b 11
65TerminationVS 4c 45
66The Low GirdleVS 4c *41
67The High GirdleHVS 5b *21
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Access notes

Beware of nesting seas birds during the summer months.

Only the west end of the crag is accessible during high-tide.

Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mike_Watson_99

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Be careful with the belay at the top of Pain Pillar. One of the fins of rock has been removed and there doesn't seem to be much holding in another one!
Mike_Watson_99 - 17/Apr/14

I think i left my lowland outcrops 2005 at the top a week ago on sunday (16/2/14). . . If anyone was there in following days and happened to find it an email would be much appreciated.cheers
seanhendo123 - 25/Feb/14

Noticed yesterday that the two bolts at the top have been removed which makes setting up belays more tricky. Any ideas why?
CyberTaff - 15/Sep/13

Please careful when belaying off the tree at the top of Asinine/The Lily/Gunga Din etc as one of the branches has been sawn through and is no longer attached. Make sure you attached yourself to the solid branch!!!
Fiona Reid - 25/Apr/13

the bottom of the crag is dry from ~3 hours either side of low tide. If the tide is higher the choice is between an exciting traverse in, or the shorter routes at either end.
ligaya - 09/Jul/07

Asinine is every bit as good as Pain Pillar, but not 5a.
Jamie B. - 11/Sep/05

yip this crag is first class. you can even try deep water soloing in the summer months if your mad enough
maximus altitudus - 27/Dec/04

...I forgot to mention the bakery in Aberdour - simply a special place...
Reuben - 17/Mar/03

The best crag in Eastern Scotland for access by public transport, and very amenable for the biginner. The whole place feels very friendly, with good holds, protection and surprisingly rough rock. The place also has a great outlook, and routes are very enjoyable - not just Pain Pillar. The VS and HVS lines are very good, Guano would be a good first HVS lead, and the climbs out of the alcove on the west of the crag are lovely, Cranium Crack. The crag can catch the wind, but can also be sunny when Edinburgh isn't.
Reuben - 17/Mar/03

Excellent climbing in the middle grades but can be loose in places so caution required.
Rooster - 25/Jan/03