Climbs 370
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 205m a.s.l
Faces S

Rubicon wall © Ryan83

Crag features

The River Wye continues south and west from Chee Dale, past Miller’s Dale, into Water-cum-Jolly. In many ways this is Chee Dale's neglected little sister, the routes and buttresses are shorter and often the rock is of a lesser quality. On the plus side, a good track runs through the valley, it has a pleasant open aspect and quite a number of the cliffs catch the sun, with another set offering shady retreat in hot weather. Many of the routes in Water-cum-Jolly have been neglected in recent years. Those which rely on fixed gear are slowly being rebolted but others should be regarded now as unclimbable. This is especially true on Lammergeyer Buttress, and some of Moat and Central Buttresses - these routes have been included in this book since they may be rebolted in the future. Apart from the ever-popular Rubicon Wall, and the Cornice when it is in condition, you are very likely to have most of the routes here to yourself.

Access in WCJ is very sensitive so please follow the described approaches and notes included with each buttress introduction very carefully. The rights to the north riverbank in WCJ is owned by an angling club. They are willing to allow climbers and walkers access to the dale but please do nothing to disturb their fishing activities. The section including Jackdaw Point, Upper Circle and Ping Pong Area is a wildlife reserve owned and managed by Derbyshire Wildlife Trust. They are willing to allow climbing on these three buttresses but only within strict limits and providing climbers use the described approaches only. There should be no new routes and no gardening of any kind on these buttresses. The other sections, including the south bank, are owned by various land owners. Access to these buttresses isn't a problem but climbers should make as little disturbance as possible since the whole dale is important for wildlife of all kinds. Apart from lower-offs, no extra gear should be left on the routes, this includes fixed slings and krabs.

Approach notes

Litton Mill Approach - From the B6049 Tideswell to Miller's Dale road, take the sharp turn towards Litton Mill and past the Angler's Rest pub. Park at the small parking spot about 200m past Raven Tor and just before the signs dissuading you from continuing to the village. Follow the road on foot and continue past the old mill (now apartments) onto the valley bottom path.
Cressbrook Approach - Descend into Monsal Dale and follow the valley bottom road all the way to Cressbrook. Park here on the roadside opposite the new flats development in the old mill. A well-marked path leads up into the dale proper. As Rubicon Wall comes into view there is a bridge on the left which leads to the south bank and the Cornice.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
The sport route near Thatcher Years is in fact called "Incapacity Benift". A few people need to edit their logs!
kristian - 01/Oct/08
Need to add The Auctioneer 8a+ kieth Sharples July 2001. Left of Rumble. Eclipsed 8b Steve fearn Aug 99 L of glue machine. Ape Index Steve mclure Aug 2000 8b+ R of Yorkshire 8b. Gold Cresr hard 7C+ Right of Glue Machine Also best routes on Crag are Albatrocity (best 8a+ in Peak) Auctioneer, Brachiation, Freemonster and Monsterocity.
Simon Reed - 24/Oct/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Vision Buttress 
2Sunshine Super Frog
-
E6 6c 1
3The Vision
-
E6 6c **2
4Knocked Out Loaded
-
E6 6c **1
5Agrippa's Knees
-
E6 6b  
 Jackdaw Point 
7Ground ControlE1 5b 2
8Skyline Pigeon
-
E5 6b  
9Armed With an Empty GunE4 6a *2
10ErithacusE2 5b *31
11Army DreamersE2 5c *27
12Final SacrificeE1 5b 1
13Fledgling FlakesHVS 5b *19
14Burning Up TimeE3 6a *15
15Nervous and ShakyE4 6a  
16FledglingVS 4c 11
17Trial Run
-
VS 4c 2
18First FlightHVS 5a 5
19PalmoliveE1 5c *20
20Endless FlightE2 5c *19
21Fear of FlyingE2 5b *26
22Flight PathVS 4b 3
23Victory Roll
-
VS 4c 2
 Upper Circle 
25Hesitation Dance
-
E5 6a  
26SpecialistE4 6c  
27Pragma8a+ * 
28Eat the Rich7c *12
29Three Spheres8b **2
30The Inch Test8a+ **5
31Psychic EmulatorE3 6b  
32Splinter in the Mind's EyeE2 6b 1
33Sweet WilliamE2 5c *5
34Western SamoaE4 6b 1
35Dead Tree GrooveE2 5c *18
36Palace of TyrannyE1 5b  
37Trench WarfareE2 5b  
38Sweet FAE1 5b 1
39Dead Tree CrackE1 5b *10
40Reptar on Ice
-
E1 5b  
41Christmas Cracks
-
VS 4c 9
42Euroman
-
HVS 5a 5
43Looking Good
-
E4 6a  
44Nidhšgg Loves Jormungand
-
E3 6a  
45CicatrixHVS 5a 2
46Going Bush
-
E5 6c  
 Ping Pong Area 
48Jungle Jim
-
E2 5b 1
49Tree Dweller's Crack
-
E3 6a  
50DeceptionE4 6a **19
51Rio VerdeE4 6b *4
52Confidence Trick7b+  
53Matto Grosso Chimney
-
VS 4c 1
54MandrakeE5 6a **7
55Chistiliano Wall
-
E4 6b  
56Marsh Dweller's Rib
-
E3 6a  
57The PongerVS 4b 1
58PingHVS 5b **81
59Ping PongE1 5b **66
60Desmond DouglasE2 5c *11
61Pong
-
E1 5b 4
62The Creative Urge
-
HVS 5b  
63Virgin's Crack
-
VS 4b 12
64Sour GrapesE1 6a 2
 Psyche's Buttress 
66The ArrowS 1
67Summons
-
E4 5c  
68Nappy Squad
-
E5 6b  
69Dreams of Leaving
-
E2 5c  
70Love is the Drug
-
6c+ 2
71The Still Small Voice
-
E3 5c **3
72Strip Search
-
E2 5c  
73Bow String Groove
-
VS 4
74Early One Morning
-
E2 5b,5c 1
75The Keep
-
S 4
76The Fairy
-
D 1
 Lammergeyer Buttress 
78Zob
-
E2 6a  
79Part-time Hobby
-
E2 5b  
80Aquarian Warriors
-
E5 6b  
81The Lammergeyer TwinsE5 6b 1
82As Summers Die7a+ 2
83One Way ReflectionE5 6b * 
84Pinch an Inch7b+ *1
85Final Apocalypse7a+ *3
86The Myth of Masculinity7a+ 1
87Mr. Puniverse7a+ 2
88The Ego has Landed7b+ 2
89The Amnicolist Spies on the Black SubmarineE5 6b 1
90Living with a Porcupine7a 5
91Once upon a Time7a+ 1
92Tree Surgeon7b 1
93The Fall7c+ * 
94Vindicator7c 5
95SkyFall7c+ *1
 Rubicon - Left 
97Alimoany7b+ 4
98The Honeymoon Is Over7c 2
99Decree Nici7b+ 5
100Second honeymoon7a+ 2
101Honeymoon BluesE5 6b *8
102Salar8a *17
103Slapin7c *7
104Slapdasher7a *22
105LapinE3 5c 5
106Welsh Rarebit6b+ *44
107Blue Eyed Myxamatoid
-
E3 5c  
108The Brer Faced Cheek of It
-
6a 2
109HareE3 5c 1
110Changing FortunesE4 6b 1
111Chairs MissingE4 6b *7
112A Tall StoryE5 6c *1
113DragonflightE3 5c **63
114The Dragon Flight TraverseV3 *44
115JezebelE5 6a **8
116KingfisherE5 6c *3
117JawsE5 6b *6
118Plectrum Maxilla DirectE7 6c * 
119Barracuda8b *1
120Caviar8a+ ***16
121Caviar Start
-
f7B *6
122Beluga8a+ *4
123Eugenics8b+  
124Let the Tribe Increase8a *10
125Dangerous Tribes8a *2
126The Dangerous Brothers8a **18
127Too Old to be Bold7c *73
128CootE4 6a 7
129PiranhaE6 6b ***9
130Piranha Startf7A *27
131Piranha Traverse
-
f7A *6
132CoraE6 6c *2
133White BaitE5 6c **5
134White Bait (start)f6C 16
135Flake Out Shake OutE4 6c  
 Kudos Wall 
137A Miller's TaleE5 6b **9
138A Miller's Tale Startf6B+ *307
139Kudosf7B *145
140Kudos Originalf7C *12
141Kudos - the Hard Wayf7B *24
142Kudos Hard Way Sit Startf7B+ 4
143Kudos Sit Startf7B+ *12
144Kudos Original Sit Startf7C+ 3
145Kudos traverse
-
f7B **44
146The Pinchf7C *2
147Hot Fun Closing8a **29
148A Bigger Tail7b+ **157
149Johnny Gf7C 5
150An Even Bigger Tail7b+ *41
151A Bigger Tail Stand Startf7C *1
152A Bigger Bellyf8B * 
153The PressV9 **57
154The Press - Kneeling Startf7C+ *6
155The Press - Low Right Startf8A **2
156The Press - Low Left Startf8A+ **1
157A Bigger SplashV7 *91
158A Bigger Splash Directf7B *121
159Bigger Splash Direct - Kneeling Startf7C **13
160Bigger Splash Direct - Low Right Startf7C **4
161A Bigger Prizef7A 178
162Tsunamif8A **16
163Tsunamishf7C+ *2
164Dancing Fishf8A **4
165Dancing Fish Standingf7B ***10
 Rubicon - Right 
167Water Baliff
-
HVS 4c 3
168Freewheeler
-
HVS 4c  
169Professor Kirk
-
E5 6b  
170Maureen
-
E4 6a  
171Point of no return6c 2
172Last But Not Least7a *33
173Trunk of Punk7a  
174Sperm Worm
-
E5 6a  
175Dumb Animal
-
E5 6a  
176The Pinch Test7c+ *2
177The AnglerE6 6c *1
178The Wimp7c *5
179The Sissy8a *52
180Zeke the Freak8b ***14
181The Bastard8c+ ** 
182Truely Awesome7a+ *15
183Rubicon7a ***436
184Zeitgeist7b *50
185No Jug, No ThugE5 6b *1
186Cruising the Seven SeasE6 6b * 
187The Bomb is Coming7a *10
188Toenail PieE2 5b 17
189Warm-up Traversef5 **193
190High Traversef5+ 137
191Middle Traversef6A+ *152
192Low traversef6B+ *85
193Toenail Leftf6A+ *101
194Toenail Pie Start
-
f5 *180
195Debris
-
E4 5c 4
196Debris Groovef6A 83
197The Debris Dynof6C **27
198Crimps and Pocketsf6B 87
199Peg's Pathf6B 91
200Sharp Pocketsf5+ 106
201Small But Perfectly Formed7a+ 17
202Skippy the Bush Kangaroo Weird
-
E3 6c 3
203Approach Traversef7A 19
 Moat Buttress 
205Nude Moatorcycle Girl7a 4
206Out of the Shadows7b *3
207Another Moatside Attraction7a+ *5
208Moat Madness
-
E5 6b *1
209Sheer PowerE5 6b  
210SheerwaterE1 5b *4
211The Lady of the Lake
-
E5 6b *5
212D.T.'s Route
-
E5 6b  
213Drawbridge Down When the Levee BreaksE6 6c  
214ExcaliburE6 6b **2
215No Mud, No Thud7b+ 5
216A Bigger Thud7c *4
217A Bigger Splat7a *14
218Let the Tripe Increase7c **24
219All Hands to the Pump7c+  
220Moatorhead7b+ **24
221Coming up for Air7c * 
222Moat People7b+ **83
223Afloat in the Moat6c+ *105
224Piranha WallE4 3
225TritonE4 5c 6
226Jaws llE5 6b  
227The Flying DutchmanE6 6c * 
228Two Sheep to Leicester7a+ *8
229Searching for the Yeti7b *3
230Moat WallE5 1
231Moat Race6c+ 3
232Moat PuddingsE5 2
233Castle Puddings6b+ 5
 Moat/Majorca Bouldering 
235Pinch Punch (Left Hand)f6C 1
236Pinch Punchf7A 1
237Tiger Stylef7A 1
238Uptown Top Rankingf7B 1
 Majorca Crunch Buttress 
240You Got No Reason7a  
241Rhyme Crime7a+ 1
242Who got Rhyme6c 4
243Rhyme and Reason6c *6
244Reserve Judgement7a 9
245Happy Days6c+ *4
246Oh Dear!6c+ *12
247Four Men Tour6c *25
248Val de Mossa6c+ 8
249Blanca Expression7a *4
250The Majorca Alternative7a+ *22
251Costa del Jolly7a *13
252Wish you were here6b 19
253Do I?6b+ 10
254Mission Impossible8a+ * 
255Karma Killer8b **3
256Agent Provocateur8a+ **6
257Secret Agent8a+ *1
258perfecto7c+ 1
259Trainer Tamer7b+ 2
260Breakbeat8a * 
261One on One7a+ 1
262Under Western EyesE5 6b  
 The Cornice 
264Alpha Groove
-
VD  
265Sting in the Tail
-
E4 6a  
266Puffy White Flesh
-
E2 6a  
267Crystalline
-
S 1
268The Gully 1933
-
S 4b 2
269Bandwagon on Direction
-
E5 6a  
270The Bulge 1984E5 6b 1
271The Thatcher Years
-
E5 6b 14
272Nothing to Help the PoorE5 6b 1
273The Workhouse7a+ 2
274Poorlaw
-
6c+  
275A Major Moment
-
6c+ 9
276Supplementary Benefit
-
7a+ 5
277Incapacity Benefit7a+ **109
278The Dole 19897c *9
279Yorkshire 8b8a *4
280Ape Index8b+ * 
281The Weakling7c+ **4
282Brachiation Dance7b+ ***159
283The Free Monster8a ***53
284The Auctioneer8a+ ***9
285Rumble in the Jungle8a+ ***12
286Monsterosity8b ***6
287Albatrossity8a+ ***7
288Superfly8a+ **1
289Eclipsed8a+ **1
290The Disillusioned Glue Machine8a **7
291Empire Burlesque7c+ *4
292The Nasty Man7c *2
293Goldcrest8a *1
294Sirius7c+ *2
295Atilla the Hun7a+ 5
296Catch the Rainbow6c 17
297Superocity8a+ **1
298Barbarossity8a+ **1
299Belladona
-
7b 3
300Releasable Abseil1 *1
 Two Tier Buttress 
302Tierfull
-
6b 1
303My Tiers led up to This
-
6b *1
304Tiery Henry
-
6b *1
305Under-Tiered
-
6c *1
 Witchcraft Wall 
307Spellbound
-
HVS 5c  
308Witchcraft Wall
-
E3 6b  
309Belladonna
-
7b *1
310Black Sabbath
-
HVS 5b  
311Vicar's Vertigo
-
E1 5b 6
312Sermon Wall
-
VS 1
313Confusion
-
E3 6b 1
314Ribcrusher Crack
-
VS 5a 1
 Central Buttress 
316Ringing Chimney
-
D 2
317Tiddle-de-Dum6c 2
318Te DeumE3 5b  
319Hammy Hamster's Last RitesE2 5c *3
320Chiming CrackE4 6a *4
321Dangerous LiaisonsE5 6b *1
322Carillon CrackE3 5c *3
323Silent StormE5 6a *1
324Carol's CrackE3 5c *5
325Hemmingway's HorrorE2 5c *8
326The Importance of Being ErnestE4 6a  
327The BellringerE2 5c 7
328It Tolls for Thee6c+ *4
329Vapour Stream7a+ *6
330La Belle AgeE6 6b *1
331En Masse DescendreE6 6b * 
332In BulkE6 6b **1
333LeviathanE5 6b *1
334St. Paul
-
E3 5c *27
335St Paul Direct StartE3 6a *4
336Paulliac7c **2
337BehemothE5 6b ***23
338That'll Do NicelyE5 6b 3
339Yankee Dollar
-
E5 6b 1
340The Treadmill7b *8
341Fort KnoxE5 6a 2
342Fort Knox Direct7b *1
343The TrollE3 6a 6
344Crumbling CracksHVS 4b 4
345Squatter's RightsHVS 4c  
346My Fickle Resolve6c+ *3
347Une Jour Parfait7b *1
348WarheadE3 6a 2
349Fire on Water7b+ **5
350The AlienE4 6b ***30
351AliensE6 6c * 
352White Fright
-
E6 6b * 
353Knuckle KnockerE3 5c *13
354WarE5 6a 4
355Freedom is Insane7a *14
356Hairy LegsE3 6a 4
357AftervisionE2 5c 2
358Deja Vu6c *6
359HeatwaveHVS 5a  
360No Chains on Me6c+ *7
361The Chain Gang6c+ *5
362The Chain Gang (Trad)6c+ *1
363Escape Artist7a+ *2
364Cool Hand LukeE5 6b 2
365DisparagementE5 6a 2
366Time WarpE4 6b  
367Fatal Attraction7b **10
368Fatal Hesitation7b+ *1
369SoxE5 6a *2
370La Brute7a *6
371La ChuteE5 6b **5
372La RouteE4 6a *4
373Coldity GrooveE3 5c 3
374Coldity CrackE1 5b 7
375C'est Plastique6c 11
376Plastic WonderVS 4c  
377Plastic BlinkersHVS 5b  
378GwendolineHVS 5a 2
379Orient routeD  
380Dis-orientated6b+ 3
381Scoopy Little NumberE2 5b *1
382Fools Rush In
-
E1 5c 3
 Mill Buttress 
384Tip Toe WallHVS 5a 2
385Yukon GrooveVD * 
386Peg's Path Right *f6B 2
387Unnamed *E3 5c *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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