Climbs 372
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 205m a.s.l
Faces S

Rubicon wall © Ryan83

Crag features

The River Wye continues south and west from Chee Dale, past Miller’s Dale, into Water-cum-Jolly. In many ways this is Chee Dale's neglected little sister, the routes and buttresses are shorter and often the rock is of a lesser quality. On the plus side, a good track runs through the valley, it has a pleasant open aspect and quite a number of the cliffs catch the sun, with another set offering shady retreat in hot weather. Many of the routes in Water-cum-Jolly have been neglected in recent years. Those which rely on fixed gear are slowly being rebolted but others should be regarded now as unclimbable. This is especially true on Lammergeyer Buttress, and some of Moat and Central Buttresses - these routes have been included in this book since they may be rebolted in the future. Apart from the ever-popular Rubicon Wall, and the Cornice when it is in condition, you are very likely to have most of the routes here to yourself.

Access in WCJ is very sensitive so please follow the described approaches and notes included with each buttress introduction very carefully. The rights to the north riverbank in WCJ is owned by an angling club. They are willing to allow climbers and walkers access to the dale but please do nothing to disturb their fishing activities. The section including Jackdaw Point, Upper Circle and Ping Pong Area is a wildlife reserve owned and managed by Derbyshire Wildlife Trust. They are willing to allow climbing on these three buttresses but only within strict limits and providing climbers use the described approaches only. There should be no new routes and no gardening of any kind on these buttresses. The other sections, including the south bank, are owned by various land owners. Access to these buttresses isn't a problem but climbers should make as little disturbance as possible since the whole dale is important for wildlife of all kinds. Apart from lower-offs, no extra gear should be left on the routes, this includes fixed slings and krabs.

Approach notes

Litton Mill Approach - From the B6049 Tideswell to Miller's Dale road, take the sharp turn towards Litton Mill and past the Angler's Rest pub. Park at the small parking spot about 200m past Raven Tor and just before the signs dissuading you from continuing to the village. Follow the road on foot and continue past the old mill (now apartments) onto the valley bottom path.
Cressbrook Approach - Descend into Monsal Dale and follow the valley bottom road all the way to Cressbrook. Park here on the roadside opposite the new flats development in the old mill. A well-marked path leads up into the dale proper. As Rubicon Wall comes into view there is a bridge on the left which leads to the south bank and the Cornice.

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Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
The sport route near Thatcher Years is in fact called "Incapacity Benift". A few people need to edit their logs!
kristian - 01/Oct/08
Need to add The Auctioneer 8a+ kieth Sharples July 2001. Left of Rumble. Eclipsed 8b Steve fearn Aug 99 L of glue machine. Ape Index Steve mclure Aug 2000 8b+ R of Yorkshire 8b. Gold Cresr hard 7C+ Right of Glue Machine Also best routes on Crag are Albatrocity (best 8a+ in Peak) Auctioneer, Brachiation, Freemonster and Monsterocity.
Simon Reed - 24/Oct/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Vision Buttress 
2Sunshine Super Frog
E6 6c 1
3The Vision
E6 6c **2
4Knocked Out Loaded
E6 6c **1
5Agrippa's Knees
E6 6b  
 Jackdaw Point 
7Ground ControlE1 5b 2
8Skyline Pigeon
E5 6b  
9Armed With an Empty GunE4 6a *2
10ErithacusE2 5b *31
11Army DreamersE2 5c *27
12Final SacrificeE1 5b 1
13Fledgling FlakesHVS 5b *19
14Burning Up TimeE3 6a *15
15Nervous and ShakyE4 6a  
16FledglingVS 4c 11
17Trial Run
VS 4c 2
18First FlightHVS 5a 5
19PalmoliveE1 5c *20
20Endless FlightE2 5c *19
21Fear of FlyingE2 5b *26
22Flight PathVS 4b 3
23Victory Roll
VS 4c 2
 Upper Circle 
25Hesitation Dance
E5 6a  
26SpecialistE4 6c  
27Pragma8a+ * 
28Eat the Rich7c *15
29Three Spheres8b **4
30The Inch Test8a+ **8
31Psychic EmulatorE3 6b  
32Splinter in the Mind's EyeE2 6b 1
33Sweet WilliamE2 5c *5
34Western SamoaE4 6b 1
35Dead Tree GrooveE2 5c *18
36Palace of TyrannyE1 5b  
37Trench WarfareE2 5b  
38Sweet FAE1 5b 1
39Dead Tree CrackE1 5b *10
40Reptar on Ice
E1 5b  
41Christmas Cracks
VS 4c 9
HVS 5a 5
43Looking Good
E4 6a  
44Nidhšgg Loves Jormungand
E3 6a  
45CicatrixHVS 5a 2
46Going Bush
E5 6c  
 Ping Pong Area 
48Jungle Jim
E2 5b 1
49Tree Dweller's Crack
E3 6a  
50DeceptionE4 6a **21
51Rio VerdeE4 6b *4
52Confidence Trick7b+  
53Matto Grosso Chimney
VS 4c 1
54MandrakeE5 6a **7
55Chistiliano Wall
E4 6b  
56Marsh Dweller's Rib
E3 6a  
57The PongerVS 4b 1
58PingHVS 5b **82
59Ping PongE1 5b **71
60Desmond DouglasE2 5c *12
E1 5b 4
62The Creative Urge
HVS 5b  
63Virgin's Crack
VS 4b 12
64Sour GrapesE1 6a 2
 Psyche's Buttress 
66The ArrowS 1
E4 5c  
68Nappy Squad
E5 6b  
69Dreams of Leaving
E2 5c  
70Love is the Drug
6c+ 2
71The Still Small Voice
E3 5c **3
72Strip Search
E2 5c  
73Bow String Groove
VS 4
74Early One Morning
E2 5b,5c 1
75The Keep
S 4
76The Fairy
D 1
 Lammergeyer Buttress 
E2 6a  
79Part-time Hobby
E2 5b  
80Aquarian Warriors
E5 6b  
81The Lammergeyer TwinsE5 6b 1
82As Summers Die7a+ 3
83One Way ReflectionE5 6b * 
84Pinch an Inch7b+ *7
85Final Apocalypse7a+ *11
86The Myth of Masculinity7a+ 1
87Mr. Puniverse7a+ 2
88The Ego has Landed7b+ 2
89The Amnicolist Spies on the Black SubmarineE5 6b 1
90Living with a Porcupine7a 5
91Once upon a Time7a+ 1
92Tree Surgeon7b 1
93The Fall7c+ *3
94Vindicator7c 12
95SkyFall7c+ *1
 Rubicon - Left 
97Alimoany7b+ 5
98The Honeymoon Is Over7c 4
99Decree Nici7b+ 8
100Second honeymoon7a+ 4
101Honeymoon BluesE5 6b *8
102Salar8a *24
103Slapin7c *11
104Slapdasher7a *24
105LapinE3 5c 6
106Welsh Rarebit6b+ *49
107Blue Eyed Myxamatoid
E3 5c  
108The Brer Faced Cheek of It
6a 3
109HareE3 5c 1
110Changing FortunesE4 6b 1
111Chairs MissingE4 6b *7
112A Tall StoryE5 6c *1
113DragonflightE3 5c **73
114The Dragon Flight TraverseV3+ *47
115JezebelE5 6a **8
116KingfisherE5 6c *3
117JawsE5 6b *6
118Plectrum Maxilla DirectE7 6c * 
119Barracuda8b *1
120Caviar8a+ ***25
121Caviar Start
f7B *8
122Beluga8a+ *4
124Let the Tribe Increase8a *13
125Dangerous Tribes8a *4
126The Dangerous Brothers8a **23
127Too Old to be Bold7c *77
128CootE4 6a 7
129PiranhaE6 6b ***9
130Piranha Startf7A *35
131Piranha Traverse
f7A *6
132CoraE6 6c *2
133White BaitE5 6c **6
134White Bait (start)f6C 18
135Flake Out Shake OutE4 6c  
 Kudos Wall 
137A Miller's TaleE5 6b **10
138A Miller's Tale Startf6B+ *343
139Kudosf7B *150
140Kudos Originalf7C *14
141Kudos - the Hard Wayf7B *27
142Kudos Hard Way Sit Startf7B+ 4
143Kudos Sit Startf7B+ *13
144Kudos Original Sit Startf7C+ 3
145Kudos traverse
f7B **44
146The Pinchf7C *2
147Hot Fun Closing8a **50
148A Bigger Tail7b+ **176
149Johnny Gf7C 7
150An Even Bigger Tail7b+ *53
151A Bigger Tail Stand Startf7C *1
152A Bigger Bellyf8B * 
153The PressV9 **59
154The Press - Kneeling Startf7C+ *6
155The Press - Low Right Startf8A **2
156The Press - Low Left Startf8A+ **1
157A Bigger SplashV7 *94
158A Bigger Splash Directf7B *125
159Bigger Splash Direct - Kneeling Startf7C **20
160Bigger Splash Direct - Low Right Startf7C **7
161A Bigger Prizef7A 194
162Tsunamif8A **25
163Tsunamishf7C+ *2
164Dancing Fishf8A **4
165Dancing Fish Standingf7B ***10
 Rubicon - Right 
167Water Baliff
HVS 4c 3
HVS 4c  
169The Terror of the Seven Seas7c 2
170Professor Kirk
E5 6b  
E4 6a  
172Point of no return6c 5
173Last But Not Least7a *35
174Trunk of Punk7a 2
175Sperm Worm
E5 6a  
176Dumb Animal
E5 6a  
177The Pinch Test7c+ *6
178The AnglerE6 6c *1
179The Wimp7c *14
180The Sissy8a *59
181Zeke the Freak8b ***28
182The Bastard8c+ ** 
183Truely Awesome7a+ *15
184Rubicon7a ***567
185Zeitgeist7b *69
186No Jug, No ThugE5 6b *1
187Cruising the Seven SeasE6 6b * 
188The Bomb is Coming7a *10
189Toenail PieE2 5b 18
190Warm-up Traversef5 **212
191High Traversef5+ 157
192Middle Traversef6A+ *169
193Low traversef6B+ *93
194Toenail Leftf6A+ *108
195Toenail Pie Start
f5 *192
E4 5c 4
197Debris Groovef6A 91
198The Debris Dynof6C **30
199Crimps and Pocketsf6B 102
200Peg's Pathf6B 108
201Sharp Pocketsf5+ 126
202Small But Perfectly Formed7a+ 23
203Skippy the Bush Kangaroo Weird
E3 6c 3
204Approach Traversef7A 22
 Moat Buttress 
206Nude Moatorcycle Girl7a 4
207Out of the Shadows7b *3
208Another Moatside Attraction7a+ *5
209Moat Madness
E5 6b *1
210Sheer PowerE5 6b  
211SheerwaterE1 5b *4
212The Lady of the Lake
E5 6b *5
213D.T.'s Route
E5 6b  
214Drawbridge Down When the Levee Breaks7c 3
215ExcaliburE6 6b **5
216No Mud, No Thud7b+ 6
217A Bigger Thud7c *4
218A Bigger Splat7a *20
219Let the Tripe Increase7c **33
220All Hands to the Pump7c+  
221Moatorhead7b+ **35
222Coming up for Air7c *4
223Moat People7b+ **122
224Afloat in the Moat6c+ *139
225Piranha WallE4 3
226TritonE4 5c 6
227Jaws llE5 6b  
228The Flying DutchmanE6 6c * 
229Two Sheep to Leicester7a+ *12
230Searching for the Yeti7b *4
231Moat WallE5 1
232Moat Race6c+ 5
233Moat PuddingsE5 2
234Castle Puddings6b+ 5
 Moat/Majorca Bouldering 
236Pinch Punch (Left Hand)f6C 1
237Pinch Punchf7A 4
238Tiger Stylef7A 6
239Uptown Top Rankingf7B 2
240Jacobs' Crackerf7C 1
 Majorca Crunch Buttress 
242You Got No Reason7a  
243Rhyme Crime7a+ 1
244Who got Rhyme6c 7
245Rhyme and Reason6c *12
246Reserve Judgement7a 10
247Happy Days6c+ *6
248Oh Dear!6c+ *17
249Four Men Tour6c *34
250Val de Mossa6c+ 9
251Blanca Expression7a *4
252The Majorca Alternative7a+ *23
253Costa del Jolly7a *16
254Wish you were here6b 20
255Do I?6b+ 13
256Mission Impossible8a+ * 
257Karma Killer8b **5
258Agent Provocateur8a+ **14
259Secret Agent8a+ *1
260perfecto7c+ 1
261Trainer Tamer7b+ 2
262Breakbeat8a * 
263One on One7a+ 1
264Under Western EyesE5 6b  
 The Cornice 
266Alpha Groove
267Sting in the Tail
E4 6a  
268Puffy White Flesh
E2 6a  
S 1
270The Gully 1933
S 4b 2
271Bandwagon on Direction
E5 6a  
272The Bulge 1984E5 6b 1
273The Thatcher Years
E5 6b 14
274Nothing to Help the PoorE5 6b 1
275The Workhouse7a+ 3
6c+ 1
277A Major Moment
6c+ 10
278Supplementary Benefit
7a+ 10
279Incapacity Benefit7a+ **116
280The Dole 19897c *12
281Yorkshire 8b8a *7
282Ape Index8b+ *4
283The Weakling7c+ **8
284Brachiation Dance7b+ ***203
285The Free Monster8a ***85
286The Auctioneer8a+ ***12
287Rumble in the Jungle8a+ ***21
288Monsterosity8b ***9
289Albatrossity8a+ ***14
290Superfly8a+ **3
291Eclipsed8a+ **2
292The Disillusioned Glue Machine8a **10
293Empire Burlesque7c+ *4
294The Nasty Man7c *2
295Goldcrest8a *1
296Sirius7c+ *2
297Atilla the Hun7a+ 5
298Catch the Rainbow6c 18
299Superocity8a+ **2
300Barbarossity8a+ **4
7b 3
302Releasable Abseil1 *1
 Two Tier Buttress 
6b 1
305My Tiers led up to This
6b *5
306Tiery Henry
6b *5
6c *3
 Witchcraft Wall 
HVS 5c  
310Witchcraft Wall
E3 6b  
7b *1
312Black Sabbath
HVS 5b  
313Vicar's Vertigo
E1 5b 6
314Sermon Wall
VS 1
E3 6b 1
316Ribcrusher Crack
VS 5a 1
 Central Buttress 
318Ringing Chimney
D 2
319Tiddle-de-Dum6c 2
320Te DeumE3 5b  
321Hammy Hamster's Last RitesE2 5c *3
322Chiming CrackE4 6a *4
323Dangerous LiaisonsE5 6b *1
324Carillon CrackE3 5c *4
325Silent StormE5 6a *1
326Carol's CrackE3 5c *6
327Hemmingway's HorrorE2 5c *8
328The Importance of Being ErnestE4 6a  
329The BellringerE2 5c 7
330It Tolls for Thee6c+ *11
331Vapour Stream7a+ *6
332La Belle AgeE6 6b *1
333En Masse DescendreE6 6b * 
334In BulkE6 6b **1
335LeviathanE5 6b *1
336St. Paul
E3 5c *27
337St Paul Direct StartE3 6a *5
338Paulliac7c **2
339BehemothE5 6b ***24
340That'll Do NicelyE5 6b 3
341Yankee Dollar
E5 6b 1
342The Treadmill7b *8
343Fort KnoxE5 6a 2
344Fort Knox Direct7b *1
345The TrollE3 6a 6
346Crumbling CracksHVS 4b 4
347Squatter's RightsHVS 4c  
348My Fickle Resolve6c+ *5
349Une Jour Parfait7b *1
350WarheadE3 6a 2
351Fire on Water7b+ **5
352The AlienE4 6b ***31
353AliensE6 6c * 
354White Fright
E6 6b * 
355Knuckle KnockerE3 5c *13
356WarE5 6a 4
357Freedom is Insane7a *22
358Hairy LegsE3 6a 4
359AftervisionE2 5c 2
360Deja Vu6c *7
361HeatwaveHVS 5a  
362No Chains on Me6c+ *11
363The Chain Gang6c+ *8
364The Chain Gang (Trad)6c+ *1
365Escape Artist7a+ *3
366Cool Hand LukeE5 6b 2
367DisparagementE5 6a 2
368Time WarpE4 6b  
369Fatal Attraction7a+ **14
370Fatal Hesitation7b+ *1
371SoxE5 6a *2
372La Brute7a *14
373La ChuteE5 6b **5
374La RouteE4 6a *4
375Coldity GrooveE3 5c 3
376Coldity CrackE1 5b 7
377C'est Plastique6c 19
378Plastic WonderVS 4c  
379Plastic BlinkersHVS 5b  
380GwendolineHVS 5a 2
381Orient routeD  
382Dis-orientated6b+ 3
383Scoopy Little NumberE2 5b *1
384Fools Rush In
E1 5c 3
 Mill Buttress 
386Tip Toe WallHVS 5a 2
387Yukon GrooveVD * 
388Peg's Path Right *f6B 2
389Unnamed *E3 5c *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer kristian