Water-cum-Jolly

Climbs 346 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 205m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
The River Wye continues south and west from Chee Dale, past Miller’s Dale, into Water-cum-Jolly. In many ways this is Chee Dale's neglected little sister, the routes and buttresses are shorter and often the rock is of a lesser quality. On the plus side, a good track runs through the valley, it has a pleasant open aspect and quite a number of the cliffs catch the sun, with another set offering shady retreat in hot weather. Many of the routes in Water-cum-Jolly have been neglected in recent years. Those which rely on fixed gear are slowly being rebolted but others should be regarded now as unclimbable. This is especially true on Lammergeyer Buttress, and some of Moat and Central Buttresses - these routes have been included in this book since they may be rebolted in the future. Apart from the ever-popular Rubicon Wall, and the Cornice when it is in condition, you are very likely to have most of the routes here to yourself.

Access in WCJ is very sensitive so please follow the described approaches and notes included with each buttress introduction very carefully. The rights to the north riverbank in WCJ is owned by an angling club. They are willing to allow climbers and walkers access to the dale but please do nothing to disturb their fishing activities. The section including Jackdaw Point, Upper Circle and Ping Pong Area is a wildlife reserve owned and managed by Derbyshire Wildlife Trust. They are willing to allow climbing on these three buttresses but only within strict limits and providing climbers use the described approaches only. There should be no new routes and no gardening of any kind on these buttresses. The other sections, including the south bank, are owned by various land owners. Access to these buttresses isn't a problem but climbers should make as little disturbance as possible since the whole dale is important for wildlife of all kinds. Apart from lower-offs, no extra gear should be left on the routes, this includes fixed slings and krabs.

Access notes
Litton Mill Approach - From the B6049 Tideswell to Miller's Dale road, take the sharp turn towards Litton Mill and past the Angler's Rest pub. Park at the small parking spot about 200m past Raven Tor and just before the signs dissuading you from continuing to the village. Follow the road on foot and continue past the old mill (now apartments) onto the valley bottom path.

Cressbrook Approach - Descend into Monsal Dale and follow the valley bottom road all the way to Cressbrook. Park here on the roadside opposite the new flats development in the old mill. A well-marked path leads up into the dale proper. As Rubicon Wall comes into view there is a bridge on the left which leads to the south bank and the Cornice.

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone (2012), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), Peak Limestone - Wye Valley (1999),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 VISION BUTTRESS 
2Sunshine Super FrogE6 6c
3The VisionE6 6c **
4Knocked Out LoadedE6 6c **
5Agrippa's KneesE6 6b
 JACKDAW POINT 
7Ground ControlE1 5b
8Skyline PigeonE5 6b
9Armed With an Empty GunE4 6a *
10ErithacusE1 5b *
11Army DreamersE2 5c *
12Fledgling FlakesHVS 5b
13Burning Up TimeE3 6a *
14Nervous and ShakyE4 6a
15FledglingVS 4c
16Trial RunVS 4c
17First FlightHVS 5a
18PalmoliveE1 5c *
19Endless FlightE2 5c *
20Fear of FlyingE2 5b *
21Flight PathVS 4b
22Victory RollVS 4c
 UPPER CIRCLE 
24Hesitation DanceE5 6a
25SpecialistE4 6c
26Pragma7c *
27Eat the Rich7c *
28Three Spheres8b *
29The Inch Test8a+ *
30Psychic EmulatorE3 6b
31Splinter in the Mind's EyeE2 6b
32Sweet WilliamE2 5c *
33Western SamoaE4 6b
34Dead Tree GrooveE2 5c *
35Palace of TyrannyE1 5b
36Trench WarfareE2 5b
37Sweet FAE1 5b
38Dead Tree CrackE1 5b *
39Reptar on IceE1 5b
40Christmas CracksVS 4c
41EuromanHVS 5a
42Looking GoodE4 6a
43Nidhšgg Loves JormungandE3 6a
44CicatrixHVS 5a
45Going BushE5 6c
 PING PONG AREA 
47Jungle JimE2 5b
48Tree Dweller's CrackE3 6a
49DeceptionE4 6a **
50Rio VerdeE4 6b *
51Confidence Trick7b+
52Matto Grosso ChimneyVS 4c
53MandrakeE5 6a **
54Chistiliano WallE4 6b
55Marsh Dweller's RibE3 6a
56The PongerVS 4b
57PingHVS 5a **
58Ping PongE1 5b **
59Desmond DouglasE3 5c *
60PongE1 5b
61The Creative UrgeHVS 5b
62Virgin's CrackVS 4b
63Sour GrapesE1 6a
 PSYCHE'S BUTTRESS 
65The ArrowS
66SummonsE4 5c
67Nappy SquadE5 6b
68Dreams of LeavingE2 5c
69Love is the Drug6c+
70The Still Small VoiceE3 5c **
71Strip SearchE2 5c
72Bow String GrooveVS
73The KeepS
74The FairyD
 LAMMERGEYER BUTTRESS 
76ZobE2 6a
77Part-time HobbyE2 5b
78Aquarian WarriorsE5 6b
79The Lammergeyer TwinsE5 6b **
80As Summers Die7a+
81One Way ReflectionE5 6b *
82Final ApocalypseE5 6b
83The Myth of Masculinity7a+
84Mr. Puniverse7a+
85The Ego has Landed7b+
86The Amnicolist Spies on the Black SubmarineE5 6b
87Living with a Porcupine7a
88Once upon a Time7a+
89Tree Surgeon7b
90The Fall7c+ *
91Vindicator7c
 RUBICON - LEFT 
93Alimoany7b+ *
94Honeymoon BluesE5 6b **
95Salar8a *
96Slapin7c
97Slapdasher7a
98LapinE3 5c
99Welsh Rarebit6b+
100Blue Eyed MyxamatoidE3 5c
101HareE3 5c
102Changing FortunesE4 6b
103Chairs MissingE4 6b *
104A Tall StoryE5 6c *
105DragonflightE3 5c **
106The Dragon Flight Traversef6A+ *
107JezebelE5 6a **
108KingfisherE5 6c **
109JawsE5 6b **
110Plectrum Maxilla DirectE7 6c *
111Barracuda8b *
112Caviar8a+ **
113Caviar Startf7B *
114Beluga8a+ **
115EugenicsProject
116Let the Tribe Increase8a *
117Dangerous Tribes8a *
118The Dangerous Brothers8a *
119Too Old to be Bold7c *
120CootE4 6a
121PiranhaE6 6b **
122Piranha Startf7A *
123Piranha Traversef7A *
124CoraE6 6c *
125White BaitE5 6c **
126White Bait (start)f6C
127Flake Out Shake OutE4 6c
 KUDOS WALL 
129A Miller's TaleE5 6b **
130A Miller's Tale Startf6B+ *
131Kudosf7B *
132Kudos Originalf7C *
133Kudos - the Hard Wayf7B *
134Kudos Hard Way Sit Startf7B+
135Kudos Sit Startf7B+ *
136Kudos Original Sit Start Eliminate *f8A
137Kudos original sit start *f7C+ *
138Kudos traversef7B **
139The Pinchf7C *
140Hot Fun Closing8a *
141A Bigger Tailf7A *
142Johnny Gf7C
143An Even Bigger Tail7b+ *
144A Bigger Tail Stand Startf7C *
145A Bigger Bellyf8B *
146The Pressf7B+ **
147The Press - Kneeling Startf7C+ *
148The Press - Low Right Startf8A **
149The Press - Low Left Startf8A+ **
150A Bigger Splashf7A+
151A Bigger Splash Directf7B *
152Bigger Splash Direct - Kneeling Startf7C **
153Bigger Splash Direct - Low Right Startf7C **
154A Bigger Prizef7A
155Tsunamif8A **
156Tsunamishf7C+ *
157Dancing Fishf8A **
158Dancing Fish Standingf7B ***
 RUBICON - RIGHT 
160Water BaliffHVS 4c
161FreewheelerHVS 4c
162Professor KirkE5 6b
163MaureenE4 6a
164Sperm WormE5 6a
165Dumb AnimalE5 6a
166Last But Not Least7a
167The Pinch Test7c+ *
168The AnglerE6 6c *
169The Wimp7c *
170The Sissy8a *
171Zeke the Freak8b ***
172The Bastard8c **
173Truely Awesome7a+ *
174Rubicon7a ***
175Zeitgeist7b *
176No Jug, No ThugE5 6b *
177The Bomb is Coming7a *
178Toenail PieE2 5b
179Warm-up Traversef5 **
180High Traversef5+
181Middle Traversef6A+ *
182Low traversef6B+ *
183Toenail Leftf6A+ *
184Toenail Pie Startf5 *
185DebrisE4 5c
186Debris Groovef6A
187The Debris Dynof6C **
188Crimps and Pocketsf6B
189Peg's Pathf6B
190Sharp Pocketsf5+
191Small But Perfectly Formed7a+
192Skippy the Bush Kangaroo WeirdE3 6c
193Approach Traversef7A
 MOAT BUTTRESS 
195Nude Moatorcycle Girl7a
196Out of the Shadows7b *
197Another Moatside Attraction7a+ *
198Moat MadnessE5 6b *
199Sheer PowerE5 6b
200SheerwaterHVS 5b
201The Lady of the LakeE5 6b *
202D.T.'s RouteE5 6b
203Drawbridge Down When the Levee Breaks7c
204ExcaliburE6 6b **
205No Mud, No Thud7b+ **
206A Bigger Thud7c *
207A Bigger Splat7a *
208Let the Tripe Increase7c **
209All Hands to the Pump7c+
210Moatorhead7b+ **
211Coming up for Air7c
212Moat People7b+ **
213Afloat in the Moat6c+ **
214Piranha WallE3 5c
215TritonE3 5c
216Jaws llE5 6b
217The Flying DutchmanE6 6c *
218Two Sheep to Leicester7a *
219Searching for the Yeti7b *
220Moat WallE5 6c
221Moat Race6c+
222Moat PuddingsE4 6a
223Castle Puddings6b+
 MAJORCA CRUNCH BUTTRESS 
225You Got No Reason7a
226Rhyme Crime7a+
227Who got Rhyme6c
228Rhyme and Reason6c
229Reserve Judgement7a
230Happy Days6c+
231Oh Dear!6c+
232Four Men Tour6c
233Val de Mossa6c+
234Blanca Expression7a
235The Majorca Alternative7a+
236Costa del Jolly7a
237Wish you were here6b
238Do I?6b+
239Mission Impossible8a *
240Karma Killer8b **
241Agent Provocateur8a+ **
242Secret Agent8a+ *
243perfecto7c+ *
244Trainer Tamer7b+
245Breakbeat8a *
246One on One7a+
247Under Western EyesE5 6b
 THE CORNICE 
249Alpha GrooveVD
250Sting in the TailE4 6a
251Puffy White FleshE2 6a
252CrystallineS
253The Gully 1933S 4b
254Bandwagon on DirectionE5 6a
255The Bulge 1984E5 6b
256The Thatcher YearsE5 6b
257Nothing to Help the PoorE5 6b
258Incapacity Benefit7a+ **
259The Dole 19897b+ *
260Yorkshire 8b7c+ *
261Ape Index8b+ *
262The Weakling7c+ **
263Brachiation Dance7b+ ***
264The Free Monster8a ***
265The Auctioneer8a+ ***
266Rumble in the Jungle8a+ **
267Monsterosity8b ***
268Albatrossity8a+ ***
269Superfly8a+ **
270Eclipsed8b **
271The Disillusioned Glue Machine8a **
272Empire Burlesque7c+ *
273The Nasty Man7c *
274Goldcrest7c+ *
275Sirius7c+ *
276Atilla the Hun7a+ *
277Catch the Rainbow6c
278Superocity8b *
279Barbarossity8b ***
280Belladona7b
281Releasable Abseil1 *
 WITCHCRAFT WALL 
283SpellboundHVS 5c
284Witchcraft WallE3 6b
285Belladonna7b *
286Black SabbathHVS 5b
287Vicar's VertigoE1 5b
288Sermon WallVS
289ConfusionE3 6b
290Ribcrusher CrackVS 5a
 CENTRAL BUTTRESS 
292Ringing ChimneyD
293Tiddle-de-Dum6c
294Te DeumE3 5b
295Hammy Hamster's Last RitesE3 5c *
296Chiming CrackE4 6a *
297Dangerous LiaisonsE5 6b *
298Carillon CrackE3 5c *
299Silent StormE5 6a *
300Carol's CrackE3 5c *
301Hemmingway's HorrorE2 5c *
302The Importance of Being ErnestE4 6a
303The BellringerE2 5c
304It Tolls for Thee6c+ *
305Vapour Stream7a+
306La Belle AgeE6 6b
307En Masse DescendreE6 6b **
308In BulkE6 6b **
309LeviathanE5 6b *
310St. PaulE3 5c *
311St Paul Direct StartE3 6a
312Paulliac7c **
313BehemothE5 6b ***
314That'll Do NicelyE5 6b **
315Yankee DollarE5 6b
316The Treadmill7b+ *
317Fort KnoxE5 6a
318Fort Knox Direct7b
319The TrollE2 5c
320Crumbling CracksHVS 4c
321Squatter's RightsHVS 4c
322My Fickle Resolve6c+
323Une Jour Parfait7b *
324WarheadE4 6a
325Fire on Water7b+ **
326The AlienE4 6b **
327AliensE6 6c *
328White FrightE6 6b *
329Knuckle KnockerE3 5c *
330WarE5 6a *
331Freedom is Insane7a *
332Hairy LegsE3 6a
333AftervisionE2 5c
334Deja Vu6c
335HeatwaveVS 4c
336No Chains on Me6c+
337The Chain Gang6c+ *
338The Chain Gang (Trad)E5 6a
339Escape Artist7a+ *
340Cool Hand LukeE5 6b *
341DisparagementE5 6a *
342Time WarpE5 6a
343Fatal AttractionE5 6a
344Fatal HesitationE6 6b
345SoxE5 6a *
346La Brute7a *
347La ChuteE5 6b *
348La RouteE4 6a *
349Coldity GrooveE3 5c
350Coldity CrackE1 5b
351C'est Plastique6c *
352Plastic WonderVS 4c
353Plastic BlinkersHVS 5b
354GwendolineHVS 5a
355Orient routeD
356Dis-orientated6b+
357Scoopy Little NumberE2 5b *
358Fools Rush InE1 5c
 MILL BUTTRESS 
360Tip Toe WallHVS 5a
361Yukon GrooveVD *
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer kristian

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
being blind, please ignore/delete
Paul B - 18/Jul/11
Superocity (F.A. Simon Reed I think) needs adding.
Paul B - 18/Jul/11
The sport route near Thatcher Years is in fact called "Incapacity Benift". A few people need to edit their logs!
kristian - 01/Oct/08
Need to add The Auctioneer 8a+ kieth Sharples July 2001. Left of Rumble. Eclipsed 8b Steve fearn Aug 99 L of glue machine. Ape Index Steve mclure Aug 2000 8b+ R of Yorkshire 8b. Gold Cresr hard 7C+ Right of Glue Machine Also best routes on Crag are Albatrocity (best 8a+ in Peak) Auctioneer, Brachiation, Freemonster and Monsterocity.
Simon Reed - 24/Oct/03