View larger mapGrid Ref SK 166727 (OS Landranger #119)

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These details were last updated on 08/May/2014


Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 332 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 205m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
The River Wye continues south and west from Chee Dale, past Miller’s Dale, into Water-cum-Jolly. In many ways this is Chee Dale's neglected little sister, the routes and buttresses are shorter and often the rock is of a lesser quality. On the plus side, a good track runs through the valley, it has a pleasant open aspect and quite a number of the cliffs catch the sun, with another set offering shady retreat in hot weather. Many of the routes in Water-cum-Jolly have been neglected in recent years. Those which rely on fixed gear are slowly being rebolted but others should be regarded now as unclimbable. This is especially true on Lammergeyer Buttress, and some of Moat and Central Buttresses - these routes have been included in this book since they may be rebolted in the future. Apart from the ever-popular Rubicon Wall, and the Cornice when it is in condition, you are very likely to have most of the routes here to yourself.

Access in WCJ is very sensitive so please follow the described approaches and notes included with each buttress introduction very carefully. The rights to the north riverbank in WCJ is owned by an angling club. They are willing to allow climbers and walkers access to the dale but please do nothing to disturb their fishing activities. The section including Jackdaw Point, Upper Circle and Ping Pong Area is a wildlife reserve owned and managed by Derbyshire Wildlife Trust. They are willing to allow climbing on these three buttresses but only within strict limits and providing climbers use the described approaches only. There should be no new routes and no gardening of any kind on these buttresses. The other sections, including the south bank, are owned by various land owners. Access to these buttresses isn't a problem but climbers should make as little disturbance as possible since the whole dale is important for wildlife of all kinds. Apart from lower-offs, no extra gear should be left on the routes, this includes fixed slings and krabs.

Access notes
Litton Mill Approach - From the B6049 Tideswell to Miller's Dale road, take the sharp turn towards Litton Mill and past the Angler's Rest pub. Park at the small parking spot about 200m past Raven Tor and just before the signs dissuading you from continuing to the village. Follow the road on foot and continue past the old mill (now apartments) onto the valley bottom path.

Cressbrook Approach - Descend into Monsal Dale and follow the valley bottom road all the way to Cressbrook. Park here on the roadside opposite the new flats development in the old mill. A well-marked path leads up into the dale proper. As Rubicon Wall comes into view there is a bridge on the left which leads to the south bank and the Cornice.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sun  Mon  Tue  Wed 

1.0mm rain
Sunny periods
16 °C
24 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
15 °C
19 kph

0.8mm rain
15 °C
11 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
16 °C
10 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
18 °C
10 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Peak Limestone (2012), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), Peak Limestone - Wye Valley (1999),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
2Sunshine Super FrogE6 6c 1
3The VisionE6 6c **2
4Knocked Out LoadedE6 6c **1
5Agrippa's KneesE6 6b  
7Ground ControlE1 5b 2
8Skyline PigeonE5 6b  
9Armed With an Empty GunE4 6a *2
10ErithacusE1 5b *29
11Army DreamersE2 5c *24
12Fledgling FlakesHVS 5b 17
13Burning Up TimeE3 6a *12
14Nervous and ShakyE4 6a  
15FledglingVS 4c 11
16Trial RunVS 4c 2
17First FlightHVS 5a 4
18PalmoliveE1 5c *17
19Endless FlightE2 5c *16
20Fear of FlyingE2 5b *23
21Flight PathVS 4b 3
22Victory RollVS 4c 2
24Hesitation DanceE5 6a  
25SpecialistE4 6c  
26Pragma7c * 
27Eat the Rich7c *9
28Three Spheres8b *2
29The Inch Test8a+ *5
30Psychic EmulatorE3 6b  
31Splinter in the Mind's EyeE2 6b 1
32Sweet WilliamE2 5c *4
33Western SamoaE4 6b  
34Dead Tree GrooveE2 5c *13
35Palace of TyrannyE1 5b  
36Trench WarfareE2 5b  
37Sweet FAE1 5b 1
38Dead Tree CrackE1 5b *9
39Reptar on IceE1 5b  
40Christmas CracksVS 4c 7
41EuromanHVS 5a 3
42Looking GoodE4 6a  
43Nidhšgg Loves JormungandE3 6a  
44Going BushE5 6c  
46Jungle JimE2 5b 1
47Tree Dweller's CrackE3 6a  
48DeceptionE4 6a **17
49Rio VerdeE4 6b *4
50Matto Grosso ChimneyVS 4c  
51MandrakeE5 6a **7
52Chistiliano WallE4 6b  
53Marsh Dweller's RibE3 6a  
54The PongerVS 4b 1
55PingHVS 5a **67
56Ping PongE1 5b **59
57Desmond DouglasE3 5c *10
58PongE1 5b 3
59The Creative UrgeHVS 5b  
60Virgin's CrackVS 4b 10
61Sour GrapesE1 6a 1
63SummonsE4 5c  
64Nappy SquadE5 6b  
65Dreams of LeavingE2 5c  
66Love is the Drug6c+ 1
67The Still Small VoiceE3 5c **1
68Strip SearchE2 5c  
69Bow String GrooveVS 2
70The KeepS 4
71The FairyD 1
73ZobE2 6a  
74Part-time HobbyE2 5b  
75Aquarian WarriorsE5 6b  
76The Lammergeyer TwinsE5 6b **1
77As Summers Die7a+ 1
78One Way ReflectionE5 6b * 
79Final ApocalypseE5 6b  
80The Myth of Masculinity7a+ 1
81Mr. Puniverse7a+ 2
82The Ego has Landed7b+ 2
83The Amnicolist Spies on the Black SubmarineE5 6b 1
84Living with a Porcupine7a 2
85Once upon a Time7a+ 1
86Tree Surgeon7b 1
87The Fall7c+ * 
90Alimoany7b+ *2
91Honeymoon BluesE5 6b **6
92Salar8a *12
93Slapin7c 6
94Slapdasher7a 15
95LapinE3 5c 5
96Welsh Rarebit6b+ 37
97Blue Eyed MyxamatoidE3 5c  
98HareE3 5c 1
99Changing FortunesE4 6b  
100Chairs MissingE4 6b *6
101A Tall StoryE5 6c *1
102DragonflightE3 5c **58
103The Dragon Flight Traversef6A+ *38
104JezebelE5 6a **6
105KingfisherE5 6c **1
106JawsE5 6b **5
107Plectrum Maxilla DirectE7 6c * 
108Barracuda8b *1
109Caviar8a+ **14
110Caviar Startf7B *3
111Beluga8a+ **4
113Let the Tribe Increase8a *9
114Dangerous Tribes8a *2
115The Dangerous Brothers8a *18
116Too Old to be Bold7c *54
117CootE4 6a 7
118PiranhaE6 6b **8
119Piranha Startf7A *16
120Piranha Traversef7A *4
121CoraE6 6c *2
122White BaitE5 6c **5
123White Bait (start)f6C 13
124Flake Out Shake OutE4 6c  
126A Miller's TaleE5 6b **8
127A Miller's Tale Startf6B+ *245
128Kudosf7B *108
129Kudos Originalf7C *9
130Kudos - the Hard Wayf7B *20
131Kudos Hard Way Sit Startf7B+ 3
132Kudos Sit Startf7B+ *8
133Kudos traversef7B **37
134The Pinchf7C *2
135Hot Fun Closing8a *25
136A Bigger Tailf7A *115
137Johnny Gf7C 2
138An Even Bigger Tail7b+ *31
139A Bigger Tail Stand Startf7C *1
140A Bigger Bellyf8B * 
141The Pressf7B+ **46
142The Press - Kneeling Startf7C+ *2
143The Press - Low Right Startf8A **2
144The Press - Low Left Startf8A+ **1
145A Bigger Splashf7A+ 62
146A Bigger Splash Directf7B *94
147Bigger Splash Direct - Kneeling Startf7C **10
148Bigger Splash Direct - Low Right Startf7C **2
149A Bigger Prizef7A 112
150Tsunamif8A **11
151Tsunamishf7C+ *1
152Dancing Fishf8A **2
153Dancing Fish Standingf7B ***3
155Water BaliffHVS 4c 2
156FreewheelerHVS 4c  
157Professor KirkE5 6b  
158MaureenE4 6a  
159Sperm WormE5 6a  
160Dumb AnimalE5 6a  
161Last But Not Least7a 27
162The Pinch Test7c+ *2
163The AnglerE6 6c *1
164The Wimp7c *2
165The Sissy8a *24
166Zeke the Freak8b ***12
167The Bastard8c ** 
168Truely Awesome7a+ *14
169Rubicon7a ***346
170Zeitgeist7b *42
171No Jug, No ThugE5 6b *1
172The Bomb is Coming7a *7
173Toenail PieE2 5b 16
174Warm-up Traversef5 **156
 Climb nameGradex
175High Traversef5+ 98
176Middle Traversef6A+ *121
177Low traversef6B+ *71
178Toenail Leftf6A+ *92
179Toenail Pie Startf5 *146
180DebrisE4 5c 3
181Debris Groovef6A 63
182The Debris Dynof6C **24
183Crimps and Pocketsf6B 66
184Peg's Pathf6B 67
185Sharp Pocketsf5+ 80
186Small But Perfectly Formed7a+ 11
187Skippy the Bush Kangaroo WeirdE3 6c 3
188Approach Traversef7A 11
190Nude Moatorcycle Girl7a 3
191Out of the Shadows7b *2
192Another Moatside Attraction7a+ *4
193Moat MadnessE5 6b *1
194Sheer PowerE5 6b  
195SheerwaterHVS 5b 2
196The Lady of the LakeE5 6b *4
197D.T.'s RouteE5 6b  
198Drawbridge Down When the Levee Breaks7c  
199ExcaliburE6 6b **1
200No Mud, No Thud7b+ **4
201A Bigger Thud7c *4
202A Bigger Splat7a *6
203Let the Tripe Increase7c **16
204Moatorhead7b+ **14
205Coming up for Air7c  
206Moat People7b+ **52
207Afloat in the Moat6c+ **53
208Piranha WallE3 5c 3
209TritonE3 5c 5
210Jaws llE5 6b  
211The Flying DutchmanE6 6c * 
212Two Sheep to Leicester7a *6
213Searching for the Yeti7b *2
214Moat WallE5 6c 1
215Moat Race6c+ 3
216Moat PuddingsE4 6a 2
217Castle Puddings6b+ 3
219You got No Reason7a  
220Rhyme Crime7a+ 1
221Who got Rhyme6c 1
222Rhyme and Reason6c 3
223Reserve Judgement7a 4
224Happy Days6c+ 2
225Oh Dear!6c+ 3
226Four Men Tour6c 5
227Val de Mossa6c+ 2
228Blanca Expression7a 1
229The Majorca Alternative7a+ 12
230Costa del Jolly7a 7
231Wish you were here6b 3
232I Do?6b+ 1
234Mission Impossible8a * 
235Karma Killer8b **3
236Agent Provocateur8a+ **5
237perfecto7c+ *1
238Trainer Tamer7b+ 2
239Breakbeat8a * 
240One on One7a+ 1
241Under Western EyesE5 6b  
243Alpha GrooveVD  
244Sting in the TailE4 6a  
245Puffy White FleshE2 6a  
246CrystallineS 1
247The Gully 1933S 4b 2
248Bandwagon on DirectionE5 6a  
249The Bulge 1984E5 6b 1
250The Thatcher YearsE5 6b 13
251Nothing to Help the PoorE5 6b 1
252Incapacity Benefit7a+ **61
253The Dole 19897b+ *9
254Yorkshire 8b7c+ *4
255Ape Index8b+ * 
256The Weakling7c+ **4
257Brachiation Dance7b+ ***112
258The Free Monster8a ***38
259The Auctioneer8a+ ***7
260Rumble in the Jungle8a+ **6
261Monsterosity8b ***6
262Albatrossity8a+ ***7
263Superfly8a+ **1
264Eclipsed8b **1
265The Disillusioned Glue Machine8a **7
266Empire Burlesque7c+ *4
267The Nasty Man7c *2
268Goldcrest7c+ *1
269Sirius7c+ *2
270Atilla the Hun7a+ *5
271Catch the Rainbow6c 13
272Superocity8b *1
273Barbarossity8b ***1
274Belladona7b 3
275Releasable Abseil1 *1
277SpellboundHVS 5c  
278Witchcraft WallE3 6b  
279Belladonna7b * 
280Black SabbathHVS 5b  
281Vicar's VertigoE1 5b 6
282Sermon WallVS 1
283ConfusionE3 6b 1
284Ribcrusher CrackVS 5a 1
286Ringing ChimneyD 2
287Te DeumE3 5b  
288Hammy Hamster's Last RitesE3 5c *1
289Chiming CrackE4 6a *2
290Dangerous LiaisonsE5 6b *1
291Carillon CrackE3 5c *3
292Silent StormE5 6a *1
293Carol's CrackE3 5c *5
294Hemmingway's HorrorE2 5c *5
295The Importance of Being ErnestE4 6a  
296The BellringerE2 5c 5
297Vapour StreamE4 6a 2
298La Belle AgeE6 6b 1
299En Masse DescendreE6 6b ** 
300In BulkE6 6b **1
301LeviathanE5 6b *1
302St. PaulE3 5c *24
303St Paul Direct StartE3 6a 3
304Paulliac7c **2
305BehemothE5 6b ***19
306That'll Do NicelyE5 6b **3
307Yankee DollarE5 6b 1
308The Treadmill7b+ *6
309Fort KnoxE5 6a 2
310Fort Knox Direct7b 1
311The TrollE2 5c 4
312Crumbling CracksHVS 4c 3
313Squatter's RightsHVS 4c  
314My Fickle Resolve (Central Buttress)6c+ 1
315WarheadE4 6a 2
316Fire on Water7b+ **5
317The AlienE4 6b **28
318AliensE6 6c * 
319White FrightE6 6b * 
320Knuckle KnockerE3 5c *10
321WarE5 6a *3
322Freedom is Insane7a *5
323Hairy LegsE3 6a 4
324AftervisionE2 5c 2
325Deja Vu6c 2
326HeatwaveVS 4c  
327No Chains on me6c+ 2
328The Chain Gang (retro-bolted)6c+ *1
329The Chain GangE5 6a 1
330Cool Hand LukeE5 6b *1
331DisparagementE5 6a *2
332Time WarpE5 6a  
333Fatal AttractionE5 6a 6
334Fatal HesitationE6 6b  
335SoxE5 6a *2
336La ChuteE5 6b *4
337La RouteE4 6a *3
338Coldity GrooveE3 5c 2
339Coldity CrackE1 5b 6
340C'est Plastique6c *2
341Scoopy Little NumberE2 5b *1
342Fools Rush InE1 5c 3
343GwendolineHVS 5a 2
344Orient routeD  
346Tip Toe WallHVS 5a 2
347Yukon GrooveVD * 
348Dis-orientated *6b+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
being blind, please ignore/delete
Paul B - 18/Jul/11

Superocity (F.A. Simon Reed I think) needs adding.
Paul B - 18/Jul/11

The sport route near Thatcher Years is in fact called "Incapacity Benift". A few people need to edit their logs!
kristian - 01/Oct/08

Need to add The Auctioneer 8a+ kieth Sharples July 2001. Left of Rumble. Eclipsed 8b Steve fearn Aug 99 L of glue machine. Ape Index Steve mclure Aug 2000 8b+ R of Yorkshire 8b. Gold Cresr hard 7C+ Right of Glue Machine Also best routes on Crag are Albatrocity (best 8a+ in Peak) Auctioneer, Brachiation, Freemonster and Monsterocity.
Simon Reed - 24/Oct/03