Water-cum-Jolly

Climbs 346 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 205m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
The River Wye continues south and west from Chee Dale, past Miller’s Dale, into Water-cum-Jolly. In many ways this is Chee Dale's neglected little sister, the routes and buttresses are shorter and often the rock is of a lesser quality. On the plus side, a good track runs through the valley, it has a pleasant open aspect and quite a number of the cliffs catch the sun, with another set offering shady retreat in hot weather. Many of the routes in Water-cum-Jolly have been neglected in recent years. Those which rely on fixed gear are slowly being rebolted but others should be regarded now as unclimbable. This is especially true on Lammergeyer Buttress, and some of Moat and Central Buttresses - these routes have been included in this book since they may be rebolted in the future. Apart from the ever-popular Rubicon Wall, and the Cornice when it is in condition, you are very likely to have most of the routes here to yourself.

Access in WCJ is very sensitive so please follow the described approaches and notes included with each buttress introduction very carefully. The rights to the north riverbank in WCJ is owned by an angling club. They are willing to allow climbers and walkers access to the dale but please do nothing to disturb their fishing activities. The section including Jackdaw Point, Upper Circle and Ping Pong Area is a wildlife reserve owned and managed by Derbyshire Wildlife Trust. They are willing to allow climbing on these three buttresses but only within strict limits and providing climbers use the described approaches only. There should be no new routes and no gardening of any kind on these buttresses. The other sections, including the south bank, are owned by various land owners. Access to these buttresses isn't a problem but climbers should make as little disturbance as possible since the whole dale is important for wildlife of all kinds. Apart from lower-offs, no extra gear should be left on the routes, this includes fixed slings and krabs.

Access notes
Litton Mill Approach - From the B6049 Tideswell to Miller's Dale road, take the sharp turn towards Litton Mill and past the Angler's Rest pub. Park at the small parking spot about 200m past Raven Tor and just before the signs dissuading you from continuing to the village. Follow the road on foot and continue past the old mill (now apartments) onto the valley bottom path.

Cressbrook Approach - Descend into Monsal Dale and follow the valley bottom road all the way to Cressbrook. Park here on the roadside opposite the new flats development in the old mill. A well-marked path leads up into the dale proper. As Rubicon Wall comes into view there is a bridge on the left which leads to the south bank and the Cornice.

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone (2012), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), Peak Limestone - Wye Valley (1999),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 VISION BUTTRESS  
2Sunshine Super FrogE6 6c 1
3The Vision7c+ **2
4Knocked Out Loaded7c **1
5Agrippa's KneesE6 6b  
 JACKDAW POINT  
7Ground ControlE1 5b 2
8Skyline PigeonE5 6b  
9Armed With an Empty GunE4 6a *2
10ErithacusE2 5b *29
11Army DreamersE2 5c *24
12Fledgling FlakesHVS 5b *18
13Burning Up TimeE3 6a *12
14Nervous and ShakyE4 6a  
15FledglingVS 4c 11
16Trial RunVS 4c 2
17First FlightHVS 5a 4
18PalmoliveE1 5c *17
19Endless FlightE2 5c *17
20Fear of FlyingE2 5b *24
21Flight PathVS 4b 3
22Victory RollVS 4c 2
 UPPER CIRCLE  
24Hesitation DanceE5 6a  
25SpecialistE4 6c  
26Pragma8a+ * 
27Eat the Rich7c *11
28Three Spheres8b **2
29The Inch Test8a+ **5
30Psychic EmulatorE3 6b  
31Splinter in the Mind's EyeE2 6b 1
32Sweet WilliamE2 5c *4
33Western SamoaE4 6b  
34Dead Tree GrooveE2 5c *13
35Palace of TyrannyE1 5b  
36Trench WarfareE2 5b  
37Sweet FAE1 5b 1
38Dead Tree CrackE1 5b *9
39Reptar on IceE1 5b  
40Christmas CracksVS 4c 7
41EuromanHVS 5a 3
42Looking GoodE4 6a  
43Nidhšgg Loves JormungandE3 6a  
44CicatrixHVS 5a 1
45Going BushE5 6c  
 PING PONG AREA  
47Jungle JimE2 5b 1
48Tree Dweller's CrackE3 6a  
49DeceptionE4 6a **18
50Rio VerdeE4 6b *4
51Confidence Trick7b+  
52Matto Grosso ChimneyVS 4c  
53MandrakeE5 6a **7
54Chistiliano WallE4 6b  
55Marsh Dweller's RibE3 6a  
56The PongerVS 4b 1
57PingHVS 5b **67
58Ping PongE1 5b **59
59Desmond DouglasE2 5c *10
60PongE1 5b 3
61The Creative UrgeHVS 5b  
62Virgin's CrackVS 4b 10
63Sour GrapesE1 6a 1
 PSYCHE'S BUTTRESS  
65The ArrowS 1
66SummonsE4 5c  
67Nappy SquadE5 6b  
68Dreams of LeavingE2 5c  
69Love is the Drug6c+ 1
70The Still Small VoiceE3 5c **2
71Strip SearchE2 5c  
72Bow String GrooveVS 2
73The KeepS 4
74The FairyD 1
 LAMMERGEYER BUTTRESS  
76ZobE2 6a  
77Part-time HobbyE2 5b  
78Aquarian WarriorsE5 6b  
79The Lammergeyer TwinsE5 6b 1
80As Summers Die7a+ 2
81One Way ReflectionE5 6b * 
82Final ApocalypseE5 6b  
83The Myth of Masculinity7a+ 1
84Mr. Puniverse7a+ 2
85The Ego has Landed7b+ 2
86The Amnicolist Spies on the Black SubmarineE5 6b 1
87Living with a Porcupine7a 3
88Once upon a Time7a+ 1
89Tree Surgeon7b 1
90The Fall7c+ * 
91Vindicator7c  
 RUBICON - LEFT  
93Alimoany7b+ 2
94Honeymoon BluesE5 6b *6
95Salar8a *13
96Slapin7c *6
97Slapdasher7a *18
98LapinE3 5c 5
99Welsh Rarebit6b+ *40
100Blue Eyed MyxamatoidE3 5c  
101The Brer Faced Cheek of It6a 1
102HareE3 5c 1
103Changing FortunesE4 6b  
104Chairs MissingE4 6b *6
105A Tall StoryE5 6c *1
106DragonflightE3 5c **58
107The Dragon Flight Traversef6A *40
108JezebelE5 6a **8
109KingfisherE5 6c *2
110JawsE5 6b *6
111Plectrum Maxilla DirectE7 6c * 
112Barracuda8b *1
113Caviar8a+ ***14
114Caviar Startf7B *3
115Beluga8a+ *4
116Eugenics8b+  
117Let the Tribe Increase8a *9
118Dangerous Tribes8a *2
119The Dangerous Brothers8a **18
120Too Old to be Bold7c *54
121CootE4 6a 7
122PiranhaE6 6b ***8
123Piranha Startf7A *17
124Piranha Traversef7A *4
125CoraE6 6c *2
126White BaitE5 6c **5
127White Bait (start)f6C 13
128Flake Out Shake OutE4 6c  
 KUDOS WALL  
130A Miller's TaleE5 6b **8
131A Miller's Tale Startf6B+ *252
132Kudosf7B *113
133Kudos Originalf7C *10
134Kudos - the Hard Wayf7B *23
135Kudos Hard Way Sit Startf7B+ 3
136Kudos Sit Startf7B+ *9
137Kudos Original Sit Startf7C+ 1
138Kudos traversef7B **39
139The Pinchf7C *2
140Hot Fun Closing8a **26
141A Bigger Tail7b+ **121
142Johnny Gf7C 4
143An Even Bigger Tail7b+ *31
144A Bigger Tail Stand Startf7C *1
145A Bigger Bellyf8B * 
146The Pressf7C **50
147The Press - Kneeling Startf7C+ *4
148The Press - Low Right Startf8A **2
149The Press - Low Left Startf8A+ **1
150A Bigger Splashf7A+ *70
151A Bigger Splash Directf7B *102
152Bigger Splash Direct - Kneeling Startf7C **10
153Bigger Splash Direct - Low Right Startf7C **3
154A Bigger Prizef7A 125
155Tsunamif8A **13
156Tsunamishf7C+ *1
157Dancing Fishf8A **3
158Dancing Fish Standingf7B ***5
 RUBICON - RIGHT  
160Water BaliffHVS 4c 2
161FreewheelerHVS 4c  
162Professor KirkE5 6b  
163MaureenE4 6a  
164Sperm WormE5 6a  
165Dumb AnimalE5 6a  
166Last But Not Least7a *28
167The Pinch Test7c+ *2
168The AnglerE6 6c *1
169The Wimp7c *3
170The Sissy8a *24
171Zeke the Freak8b ***12
172The Bastard8c+ ** 
173Truely Awesome7a+ *14
174Rubicon7a ***356
175Zeitgeist7b *44
176No Jug, No ThugE5 6b *1
177The Bomb is Coming7a *7
178Toenail PieE2 5b 16
179Warm-up Traversef5 **158
180High Traversef5+ 102
181Middle Traversef6A+ *124
182Low traversef6B+ *73
183Toenail Leftf6A+ *94
184Toenail Pie Startf5 *150
185DebrisE4 5c 4
186Debris Groovef6A 67
187The Debris Dynof6C **25
188Crimps and Pocketsf6B 67
189Peg's Pathf6B 69
190Sharp Pocketsf5+ 81
191Small But Perfectly Formed7a+ 12
192Skippy the Bush Kangaroo WeirdE3 6c 3
193Approach Traversef7A 13
 MOAT BUTTRESS  
195Nude Moatorcycle Girl7a 3
196Out of the Shadows7b *2
197Another Moatside Attraction7a+ *4
198Moat MadnessE5 6b *1
199Sheer PowerE5 6b  
200SheerwaterE1 5b *2
201The Lady of the LakeE5 6b *4
202D.T.'s RouteE5 6b  
203Drawbridge Down When the Levee BreaksE6 6c  
204ExcaliburE6 6b **1
205No Mud, No ThudE6 6b 4
206A Bigger Thud7c *4
207A Bigger Splat7a *7
208Let the Tripe Increase7c **18
209All Hands to the Pump7c+  
210Moatorhead7b+ **14
211Coming up for Air7c * 
212Moat People7b+ **53
213Afloat in the Moat6c+ *55
214Piranha WallE3 5c 3
215TritonE4 5c 6
216Jaws llE5 6b  
217The Flying DutchmanE6 6c * 
218Two Sheep to Leicester7a+ *7
219Searching for the Yeti7b *2
220Moat WallE5 6c 1
221Moat Race6c+ 3
222Moat PuddingsE4 6a 2
223Castle Puddings6b+ 3
 MAJORCA CRUNCH BUTTRESS  
225You Got No Reason7a  
226Rhyme Crime7a+ 1
227Who got Rhyme6c 1
228Rhyme and Reason6c 6a *4
229Reserve Judgement7a 6a 5
230Happy Days6c+ 6a *2
231Oh Dear!6c+ 6a *6
232Four Men Tour6c *7
233Val de Mossa6c+ 4
234Blanca Expression7a *1
235The Majorca Alternative7a+ *14
236Costa del Jolly7a *7
237Wish you were here6b 6
238Do I?6b+ 2
239Mission Impossible8a+ * 
240Karma Killer8b **3
241Agent Provocateur8a+ **4
242Secret Agent8a+ *1
243perfecto7c+ 1
244Trainer Tamer7b+ 2
245Breakbeat8a * 
246One on One7a+ 1
247Under Western EyesE5 6b  
 THE CORNICE  
249Alpha GrooveVD  
250Sting in the TailE4 6a  
251Puffy White FleshE2 6a  
252CrystallineS 1
253The Gully 1933S 4b 2
254Bandwagon on DirectionE5 6a  
255The Bulge 1984E5 6b 1
256The Thatcher YearsE5 6b 13
257Nothing to Help the PoorE5 6b 1
258Incapacity Benefit7a+ **66
259The Dole 19897c *9
260Yorkshire 8b8a *4
261Ape Index8b+ * 
262The Weakling7c+ **4
263Brachiation Dance7b+ ***122
264The Free Monster8a ***40
265The Auctioneer8a+ ***7
266Rumble in the Jungle8a+ ***6
267Monsterosity8b ***6
268Albatrossity8a+ ***7
269Superfly8a+ **1
270Eclipsed8a+ **1
271The Disillusioned Glue Machine8a **7
272Empire Burlesque7c+ *4
273The Nasty Man7c *2
274Goldcrest8a *1
275Sirius7c+ *2
276Atilla the Hun7a+ 5
277Catch the Rainbow6c 14
278Superocity8a+ **1
279Barbarossity8a+ **1
280Belladona7b 3
281Releasable Abseil1 *1
 WITCHCRAFT WALL  
283SpellboundHVS 5c  
284Witchcraft WallE3 6b  
285Belladonna7b *1
286Black SabbathHVS 5b  
287Vicar's VertigoE1 5b 6
288Sermon WallVS 1
289ConfusionE3 6b 1
290Ribcrusher CrackVS 5a 1
 CENTRAL BUTTRESS  
292Ringing ChimneyD 2
293Tiddle-de-Dum6c  
294Te DeumE3 5b  
295Hammy Hamster's Last RitesE2 5c *1
296Chiming CrackE4 6a *2
297Dangerous LiaisonsE5 6b *1
298Carillon CrackE3 5c *3
299Silent StormE5 6a *1
300Carol's CrackE3 5c *5
301Hemmingway's HorrorE2 5c *6
302The Importance of Being ErnestE4 6a  
303The BellringerE2 5c 5
304It Tolls for Thee6c+ * 
305Vapour Stream7a+ 6a *2
306La Belle AgeE6 6b *1
307En Masse DescendreE6 6b * 
308In BulkE6 6b **1
309LeviathanE5 6b *1
310St. PaulE3 5c **24
311St Paul Direct StartE3 6a *4
312Paulliac7c **2
313BehemothE5 6b ***21
314That'll Do NicelyE5 6b 3
315Yankee DollarE5 6b 1
316The Treadmill7b *6
317Fort KnoxE5 6a 2
318Fort Knox Direct7b *1
319The TrollE3 5c 5
320Crumbling CracksHVS 4c 3
321Squatter's RightsHVS 4c  
322My Fickle Resolve6c+ *1
323Une Jour Parfait7b * 
324WarheadE3 6a 2
325Fire on Water7b+ **5
326The AlienE4 6b ***29
327AliensE6 6c * 
328White FrightE6 6b * 
329Knuckle KnockerE3 5c *10
330WarE5 6a 3
331Freedom is Insane7a *5
332Hairy LegsE3 6a 4
333AftervisionE2 5c 2
334Deja Vu6c *2
335HeatwaveHVS 4c  
336No Chains on Me6c+ *2
337The Chain Gang6c+ *1
338The Chain Gang (Trad)6c+ 6a *1
339Escape Artist7a+ * 
340Cool Hand LukeE5 6b 1
341DisparagementE5 6a 2
342Time WarpE4 6b  
343Fatal Attraction7b 6a **6
344Fatal Hesitation7b+ 6c * 
345SoxE5 6a *2
346La Brute7a * 
347La ChuteE5 6b **4
348La RouteE4 6a *3
349Coldity GrooveE3 5c 2
350Coldity CrackE1 5b 6
351C'est Plastique6c 2
352Plastic WonderVS 4c  
353Plastic BlinkersHVS 5b  
354GwendolineHVS 5a 2
355Orient routeD  
356Dis-orientated6b+ 1
357Scoopy Little NumberE2 5b *1
358Fools Rush InE1 5c 3
 MILL BUTTRESS  
360Tip Toe WallHVS 5a 2
361Yukon GrooveVD * 
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer kristian

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
being blind, please ignore/delete
Paul B - 18/Jul/11
Superocity (F.A. Simon Reed I think) needs adding.
Paul B - 18/Jul/11
The sport route near Thatcher Years is in fact called "Incapacity Benift". A few people need to edit their logs!
kristian - 01/Oct/08
Need to add The Auctioneer 8a+ kieth Sharples July 2001. Left of Rumble. Eclipsed 8b Steve fearn Aug 99 L of glue machine. Ape Index Steve mclure Aug 2000 8b+ R of Yorkshire 8b. Gold Cresr hard 7C+ Right of Glue Machine Also best routes on Crag are Albatrocity (best 8a+ in Peak) Auctioneer, Brachiation, Freemonster and Monsterocity.
Simon Reed - 24/Oct/03