Climbs 373
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 205m a.s.l
Faces S

Rubicon wall © Ryan83

Crag features

The River Wye continues south and west from Chee Dale, past Miller’s Dale, into Water-cum-Jolly. In many ways this is Chee Dale's neglected little sister, the routes and buttresses are shorter and often the rock is of a lesser quality. On the plus side, a good track runs through the valley, it has a pleasant open aspect and quite a number of the cliffs catch the sun, with another set offering shady retreat in hot weather. Many of the routes in Water-cum-Jolly have been neglected in recent years. Those which rely on fixed gear are slowly being rebolted but others should be regarded now as unclimbable. This is especially true on Lammergeyer Buttress, and some of Moat and Central Buttresses - these routes have been included in this book since they may be rebolted in the future. Apart from the ever-popular Rubicon Wall, and the Cornice when it is in condition, you are very likely to have most of the routes here to yourself.

Access in WCJ is very sensitive so please follow the described approaches and notes included with each buttress introduction very carefully. The rights to the north riverbank in WCJ is owned by an angling club. They are willing to allow climbers and walkers access to the dale but please do nothing to disturb their fishing activities. The section including Jackdaw Point, Upper Circle and Ping Pong Area is a wildlife reserve owned and managed by Derbyshire Wildlife Trust. They are willing to allow climbing on these three buttresses but only within strict limits and providing climbers use the described approaches only. There should be no new routes and no gardening of any kind on these buttresses. The other sections, including the south bank, are owned by various land owners. Access to these buttresses isn't a problem but climbers should make as little disturbance as possible since the whole dale is important for wildlife of all kinds. Apart from lower-offs, no extra gear should be left on the routes, this includes fixed slings and krabs.

Approach notes

Litton Mill Approach - From the B6049 Tideswell to Miller's Dale road, take the sharp turn towards Litton Mill and past the Angler's Rest pub. Park at the small parking spot about 200m past Raven Tor and just before the signs dissuading you from continuing to the village. Follow the road on foot and continue past the old mill (now apartments) onto the valley bottom path.
Cressbrook Approach - Descend into Monsal Dale and follow the valley bottom road all the way to Cressbrook. Park here on the roadside opposite the new flats development in the old mill. A well-marked path leads up into the dale proper. As Rubicon Wall comes into view there is a bridge on the left which leads to the south bank and the Cornice.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
The sport route near Thatcher Years is in fact called "Incapacity Benift". A few people need to edit their logs!
kristian - 01/Oct/08
Need to add The Auctioneer 8a+ kieth Sharples July 2001. Left of Rumble. Eclipsed 8b Steve fearn Aug 99 L of glue machine. Ape Index Steve mclure Aug 2000 8b+ R of Yorkshire 8b. Gold Cresr hard 7C+ Right of Glue Machine Also best routes on Crag are Albatrocity (best 8a+ in Peak) Auctioneer, Brachiation, Freemonster and Monsterocity.
Simon Reed - 24/Oct/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Vision Buttress 
2Sunshine Super Frog
-
E6 6c 1
3The Vision
-
E6 6c **2
4Knocked Out Loaded
-
E6 6c **1
5Agrippa's Knees
-
E6 6b  
 Jackdaw Point 
7Ground ControlE1 5b 2
8Skyline Pigeon
-
E5 6b  
9Armed With an Empty GunE4 6a *2
10ErithacusE2 5b *31
11Army DreamersE2 5c *27
12Final SacrificeE1 5b 1
13Fledgling FlakesHVS 5b *19
14Burning Up TimeE3 6a *15
15Nervous and ShakyE4 6a  
16FledglingVS 4c 11
17Trial Run
-
VS 4c 2
18First FlightHVS 5a 5
19PalmoliveE1 5c *20
20Endless FlightE2 5c *19
21Fear of FlyingE2 5b *26
22Flight PathVS 4b 3
23Victory Roll
-
VS 4c 2
 Upper Circle 
25Hesitation Dance
-
E5 6a  
26SpecialistE4 6c  
27Pragma8a+ * 
28Eat the Rich7c *17
29Three Spheres8b **4
30The Inch Test8a+ **8
31Psychic EmulatorE3 6b  
32Splinter in the Mind's EyeE2 6b 1
33Sweet WilliamE2 5c *5
34Western SamoaE4 6b 1
35Dead Tree GrooveE2 5c *18
36Palace of TyrannyE1 5b  
37Trench WarfareE2 5b  
38Sweet FAE1 5b 1
39Dead Tree CrackE1 5b *10
40Reptar on Ice
-
E1 5b  
41Christmas Cracks
-
VS 4c 9
42Euroman
-
HVS 5a 5
43Looking Good
-
E4 6a  
44Nidhšgg Loves Jormungand
-
E3 6a  
45CicatrixHVS 5a 2
46Going Bush
-
E5 6c  
 Ping Pong Area 
48Jungle Jim
-
E2 5b 1
49Tree Dweller's Crack
-
E3 6a  
50DeceptionE4 6a **22
51Rio VerdeE4 6b *4
52Confidence Trick7b+  
53Matto Grosso Chimney
-
VS 4c 1
54MandrakeE5 6a **8
55Chistiliano Wall
-
E4 6b  
56Marsh Dweller's Rib
-
E3 6a  
57The PongerVS 4b 1
58PingHVS 5b **83
59Ping PongE1 5b **73
60Desmond DouglasE2 5c *14
61Pong
-
E1 5b 4
62The Creative Urge
-
HVS 5b  
63Virgin's Crack
-
VS 4b 12
64Sour GrapesE1 6a 2
65Unnamed *E3 5c *1
 Psyche's Buttress 
67The ArrowS 1
68Summons
-
E4 5c  
69Nappy Squad
-
E5 6b  
70Dreams of Leaving
-
E2 5c  
71Love is the Drug
-
6c+ 2
72The Still Small Voice
-
E3 5c **3
73Strip Search
-
E2 5c  
74Bow String Groove
-
VS 4
75Early One Morning
-
E2 5b,5c 1
76The Keep
-
S 4
77The Fairy
-
D 1
 Lammergeyer Buttress 
79Zob
-
E2 6a  
80Part-time Hobby
-
E2 5b  
81Aquarian Warriors
-
E5 6b  
82The Lammergeyer TwinsE5 6b 1
83As Summers Die7a+ 3
84One Way ReflectionE5 6b * 
85Pinch an Inch7b+ *7
86Final Apocalypse7a+ *11
87The Myth of Masculinity7a+ 1
88Mr. Puniverse7a+ 2
89The Ego has Landed7b+ 2
90The Amnicolist Spies on the Black SubmarineE5 6b 1
91Living with a Porcupine7a 5
92Once upon a Time7a+ 1
93Tree Surgeon7b 1
94The Fall8a **5
95Vindicator7c+ **13
96SkyFall7c+ *5
 Rubicon - Left 
98Alimoany7b+ 5
99The Honeymoon Is Over7c 4
100Decree Nici7b+ 8
101Second honeymoon7a+ 4
102Honeymoon BluesE5 6b *8
103Salar8a *26
104Slapin7c *11
105Slapdasher7a *24
106LapinE3 5c 6
107Welsh Rarebit6b+ *49
108Blue Eyed Myxamatoid
-
E3 5c  
109The Brer Faced Cheek of It
-
6a 3
110HareE3 5c 1
111Changing FortunesE4 6b 1
112Chairs MissingE4 6b *7
113A Tall StoryE5 6c *1
114DragonflightE3 5c **74
115The Dragon Flight TraverseV3+ *47
116JezebelE5 6a **8
117KingfisherE5 6c *3
118JawsE5 6b *6
119Plectrum Maxilla DirectE7 6c * 
120Barracuda8b *1
121Caviar8a+ ***25
122Caviar Start
-
f7B *10
123Beluga8a+ *4
124Eugenics8b+  
125Let the Tribe Increase8a *13
126Dangerous Tribes8a *4
127The Dangerous Brothers8a **23
128Too Old to be Bold7c *78
129CootE4 6a 7
130PiranhaE6 6b ***9
131Piranha Startf7A *36
132Piranha Traverse
-
f7A *6
133CoraE6 6c *2
134White BaitE5 6c **6
135White Bait (start)f6C 20
136Flake Out Shake OutE4 6c  
 Kudos Wall 
138A Miller's TaleE5 6b **10
139A Miller's Tale Startf6B+ *350
140Miller's Tail Eliminate (avoid holds on R) *f6C+ 2
141Kudosf7B *153
142Kudos Originalf7C *14
143Kudos - the Hard Wayf7B *27
144Kudos Hard Way Sit Startf7B+ 4
145Kudos Sit Startf7B+ *14
146Kudos Original Sit Startf7C+ 3
147Kudos traverse
-
f7B **44
148The Pinchf7C *2
149Hot Fun Closing8a **50
150A Bigger Tail7b+ **178
151Johnny Gf7C 7
152An Even Bigger Tail7b+ *53
153A Bigger Tail Stand Startf7C *1
154A Bigger Bellyf8B * 
155The PressV9 **59
156The Press - Kneeling Startf7C+ *6
157The Press - Low Right Startf8A **2
158The Press - Low Left Startf8A+ **1
159A Bigger SplashV7 *97
160A Bigger Splash Directf7B *130
161Bigger Splash Direct - Kneeling Startf7C **21
162Bigger Splash Direct - Low Right Startf7C **7
163A Bigger Prizef7A 202
164Tsunamif8A **26
165Tsunamishf7C+ *2
166Dancing Fishf8A **4
167Dancing Fish Standingf7B ***11
168Peg's Path Right *f6B 2
 Rubicon - Right 
170Water Baliff
-
HVS 4c 3
171Freewheeler
-
HVS 4c  
172The Terror of the Seven Seas7c 2
173Professor Kirk
-
E5 6b  
174Maureen
-
E4 6a  
175Point of no return6c 6
176Last But Not Least7a *35
177Trunk of Punk7a 2
178Sperm Worm
-
E5 6a  
179Dumb Animal
-
E5 6a  
180The Pinch Test7c+ *6
181The AnglerE6 6c *1
182The Wimp7c *14
183The Sissy8a *60
184Zeke the Freak8b ***28
185The Bastard8c+ ** 
186Truely Awesome7a+ *15
187Rubicon7a ***569
188Zeitgeist7b *69
189No Jug, No ThugE5 6b *1
190Cruising the Seven SeasE6 6b * 
191The Bomb is Coming7a *10
192Toenail PieE2 5b 18
193Warm-up Traversef5 **213
194High Traversef5+ 158
195Middle Traversef6A+ *170
196Low traversef6B+ *93
197Toenail Leftf6A+ *108
198Toenail Pie Start
-
f5 *193
199Debris
-
E4 5c 4
200Debris Groovef6A 91
201The Debris Dynof6C **30
202Crimps and Pocketsf6B 104
203Peg's Pathf6B 110
204Sharp Pocketsf5+ 129
205Small But Perfectly Formed7a+ 23
206Skippy the Bush Kangaroo Weird
-
E3 6c 3
207Approach Traversef7A 22
 Moat Buttress 
209Nude Moatorcycle Girl7a 4
210Out of the Shadows7b *3
211Another Moatside Attraction7a+ *5
212Moat Madness
-
E5 6b *1
213Sheer PowerE5 6b  
214SheerwaterE1 5b *4
215The Lady of the Lake
-
E5 6b *5
216D.T.'s Route
-
E5 6b  
217Drawbridge Down When the Levee Breaks7c 4
218ExcaliburE6 6b **7
219No Mud, No Thud7b+ 8
220A Bigger Thud7c *7
221A Bigger Splat7a *21
222Let the Tripe Increase7c **38
223All Hands to the Pump7c+  
224Moatorhead7b+ **38
225Coming up for Air7c *9
226Moat People7b+ **128
227Afloat in the Moat6c+ *151
228Piranha WallE4 3
229TritonE4 5c 6
230Jaws llE5 6b  
231The Flying DutchmanE6 6c * 
232Two Sheep to Leicester7a+ *13
233Searching for the Yeti7b *5
234Moat WallE5 1
235Moat Race6c+ 6
236Moat PuddingsE5 2
237Castle Puddings6b+ 5
 Moat/Majorca Bouldering 
239Pinch Punch (Left Hand)f6C 1
240Pinch Punchf7A 4
241Tiger Stylef7A 6
242Uptown Top Rankingf7B 2
243Jacobs' Crackerf7C 1
 Majorca Crunch Buttress 
245You Got No Reason7a  
246Rhyme Crime7a+ 1
247Who got Rhyme6c 7
248Rhyme and Reason6c *13
249Reserve Judgement7a 10
250Happy Days6c+ *6
251Oh Dear!6c+ *17
252Four Men Tour6c *34
253Val de Mossa6c+ 9
254Blanca Expression7a *4
255The Majorca Alternative7a+ *23
256Costa del Jolly7a *16
257Wish you were here6b 20
258Do I?6b+ 13
259Mission Impossible8a+ * 
260Karma Killer8b **5
261Agent Provocateur8a+ **14
262Secret Agent8a+ *1
263perfecto7c+ 1
264Trainer Tamer7b+ 2
265Breakbeat8a * 
266One on One7a+ 1
267Under Western EyesE5 6b  
 The Cornice 
269Alpha Groove
-
VD  
270Sting in the Tail
-
E4 6a  
271Puffy White Flesh
-
E2 6a  
272Crystalline
-
S 1
273The Gully 1933
-
S 4b 2
274Bandwagon on Direction
-
E5 6a  
275The Bulge 1984E5 6b 1
276The Thatcher Years
-
E5 6b 15
277Nothing to Help the PoorE5 6b 1
278The Workhouse7a+ 3
279Poorlaw
-
6c+ 1
280A Major Moment
-
6c+ 11
281Supplementary Benefit
-
7a+ 11
282Incapacity Benefit7a+ **118
283The Dole 19897c *13
284Yorkshire 8b8a *7
285Ape Index8b+ *4
286The Weakling7c+ **8
287Brachiation Dance7b+ ***205
288The Free Monster8a ***86
289The Auctioneer8a+ ***12
290Rumble in the Jungle8a+ ***22
291Monsterosity8b ***9
292Albatrossity8a+ ***14
293Superfly8a+ **3
294Eclipsed8a+ **2
295The Disillusioned Glue Machine8a **10
296Empire Burlesque7c+ *4
297The Nasty Man7c *2
298Goldcrest8a *1
299Sirius7c+ *2
300Atilla the Hun7a+ 5
301Catch the Rainbow6c 18
302Superocity8a+ **2
303Barbarossity8a+ **4
304Belladona
-
7b 3
305Releasable Abseil1 *1
 Two Tier Buttress 
307Tierfull
-
6b 1
308My Tiers led up to This
-
6b *5
309Tiery Henry
-
6b *5
310Under-Tiered
-
6c *3
 Witchcraft Wall 
312Spellbound
-
HVS 5c  
313Witchcraft Wall
-
E3 6b  
314Belladonna
-
7b *1
315Black Sabbath
-
HVS 5b  
316Vicar's Vertigo
-
E1 5b 6
317Sermon Wall
-
VS 1
318Confusion
-
E3 6b 1
319Ribcrusher Crack
-
VS 5a 1
 Central Buttress 
321Ringing Chimney
-
D 2
322Tiddle-de-Dum6c 2
323Te DeumE3 5b  
324Hammy Hamster's Last RitesE2 5c *3
325Chiming CrackE4 6a *4
326Dangerous LiaisonsE5 6b *1
327Carillon CrackE3 5c *4
328Silent StormE5 6a *1
329Carol's CrackE3 5c *6
330Hemmingway's HorrorE2 5c *8
331The Importance of Being ErnestE4 6a  
332The BellringerE2 5c 7
333It Tolls for Thee6c+ *11
334Vapour Stream7a+ *6
335La Belle AgeE6 6b *1
336En Masse DescendreE6 6b * 
337In BulkE6 6b **1
338LeviathanE5 6b *1
339St. Paul
-
E3 5c *28
340St Paul Direct StartE3 6a *5
341Paulliac7c **2
342BehemothE5 6b ***32
343That'll Do NicelyE5 6b 3
344Yankee Dollar
-
E5 6b 1
345The Treadmill7b *8
346Fort KnoxE5 6a 2
347Fort Knox Direct7b *1
348The TrollE3 6a 6
349Crumbling CracksHVS 4b 4
350Squatter's RightsHVS 4c  
351My Fickle Resolve6c+ *5
352Une Jour Parfait7b *1
353WarheadE3 6a 2
354Fire on Water7b+ **5
355The AlienE4 6b ***31
356AliensE6 6c * 
357White Fright
-
E6 6b * 
358Knuckle KnockerE3 5c *14
359WarE5 6a 4
360Freedom is Insane7a *24
361Hairy LegsE3 6a 4
362AftervisionE2 5c 2
363Deja Vu6c *7
364HeatwaveHVS 5a  
365No Chains on Me6c+ *11
366The Chain Gang6c+ *8
367The Chain Gang (Trad)6c+ *1
368Escape Artist7a+ *3
369Cool Hand LukeE5 6b 2
370DisparagementE5 6a 2
371Time WarpE4 6b  
372Fatal Attraction7a+ **15
373Fatal Hesitation7b+ *1
374SoxE5 6a *2
375La Brute7a *14
376La ChuteE5 6b **5
377La RouteE4 6a *4
378Coldity GrooveE3 5c 3
379Coldity CrackE1 5b 7
380C'est Plastique6c 20
381Plastic WonderVS 4c  
382Plastic BlinkersHVS 5b  
383GwendolineHVS 5a 2
384Orient routeD  
385Dis-orientated6b+ 3
386Scoopy Little NumberE2 5b *1
387Fools Rush In
-
E1 5c 3
 Mill Buttress 
389Tip Toe WallHVS 5a 2
390Yukon GrooveVD * 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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