Climbs 344 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 205m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
The River Wye continues south and west from Chee Dale, past Miller’s Dale, into Water-cum-Jolly. In many ways this is Chee Dale's neglected little sister, the routes and buttresses are shorter and often the rock is of a lesser quality. On the plus side, a good track runs through the valley, it has a pleasant open aspect and quite a number of the cliffs catch the sun, with another set offering shady retreat in hot weather. Many of the routes in Water-cum-Jolly have been neglected in recent years. Those which rely on fixed gear are slowly being rebolted but others should be regarded now as unclimbable. This is especially true on Lammergeyer Buttress, and some of Moat and Central Buttresses - these routes have been included in this book since they may be rebolted in the future. Apart from the ever-popular Rubicon Wall, and the Cornice when it is in condition, you are very likely to have most of the routes here to yourself.

Access in WCJ is very sensitive so please follow the described approaches and notes included with each buttress introduction very carefully. The rights to the north riverbank in WCJ is owned by an angling club. They are willing to allow climbers and walkers access to the dale but please do nothing to disturb their fishing activities. The section including Jackdaw Point, Upper Circle and Ping Pong Area is a wildlife reserve owned and managed by Derbyshire Wildlife Trust. They are willing to allow climbing on these three buttresses but only within strict limits and providing climbers use the described approaches only. There should be no new routes and no gardening of any kind on these buttresses. The other sections, including the south bank, are owned by various land owners. Access to these buttresses isn't a problem but climbers should make as little disturbance as possible since the whole dale is important for wildlife of all kinds. Apart from lower-offs, no extra gear should be left on the routes, this includes fixed slings and krabs.

Access notes
Litton Mill Approach - From the B6049 Tideswell to Miller's Dale road, take the sharp turn towards Litton Mill and past the Angler's Rest pub. Park at the small parking spot about 200m past Raven Tor and just before the signs dissuading you from continuing to the village. Follow the road on foot and continue past the old mill (now apartments) onto the valley bottom path.

Cressbrook Approach - Descend into Monsal Dale and follow the valley bottom road all the way to Cressbrook. Park here on the roadside opposite the new flats development in the old mill. A well-marked path leads up into the dale proper. As Rubicon Wall comes into view there is a bridge on the left which leads to the south bank and the Cornice.

Peak Limestone (2012), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), Peak Limestone - Wye Valley (1999),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Sunshine Super FrogE6 6c 1
3The VisionE6 6c **2
4Knocked Out LoadedE6 6c **1
5Agrippa's KneesE6 6b  
7Ground ControlE1 5b 2
8Skyline PigeonE5 6b  
9Armed With an Empty GunE4 6a *2
10ErithacusE1 5b *29
11Army DreamersE2 5c *24
12Fledgling FlakesHVS 5b 18
13Burning Up TimeE3 6a *12
14Nervous and ShakyE4 6a  
15FledglingVS 4c 11
16Trial RunVS 4c 2
17First FlightHVS 5a 4
18PalmoliveE1 5c *17
19Endless FlightE2 5c *17
20Fear of FlyingE2 5b *24
21Flight PathVS 4b 3
22Victory RollVS 4c 2
24Hesitation DanceE5 6a  
25SpecialistE4 6c  
26Pragma7c * 
27Eat the Rich7c *9
28Three Spheres8b *2
29The Inch Test8a+ *5
30Psychic EmulatorE3 6b  
31Splinter in the Mind's EyeE2 6b 1
32Sweet WilliamE2 5c *4
33Western SamoaE4 6b  
34Dead Tree GrooveE2 5c *13
35Palace of TyrannyE1 5b  
36Trench WarfareE2 5b  
37Sweet FAE1 5b 1
38Dead Tree CrackE1 5b *9
39Reptar on IceE1 5b  
40Christmas CracksVS 4c 7
41EuromanHVS 5a 3
42Looking GoodE4 6a  
43Nidhšgg Loves JormungandE3 6a  
44CicatrixHVS 5a 1
45Going BushE5 6c  
47Jungle JimE2 5b 1
48Tree Dweller's CrackE3 6a  
49DeceptionE4 6a **18
50Rio VerdeE4 6b *4
51Confidence Trick7b+  
52Matto Grosso ChimneyVS 4c  
53MandrakeE5 6a **7
54Chistiliano WallE4 6b  
55Marsh Dweller's RibE3 6a  
56The PongerVS 4b 1
57PingHVS 5a **67
58Ping PongE1 5b **59
59Desmond DouglasE3 5c *10
60PongE1 5b 3
61The Creative UrgeHVS 5b  
62Virgin's CrackVS 4b 10
63Sour GrapesE1 6a 1
65The ArrowS 1
66SummonsE4 5c  
67Nappy SquadE5 6b  
68Dreams of LeavingE2 5c  
69Love is the Drug6c+ 1
70The Still Small VoiceE3 5c **2
71Strip SearchE2 5c  
72Bow String GrooveVS 2
73The KeepS 4
74The FairyD 1
76ZobE2 6a  
77Part-time HobbyE2 5b  
78Aquarian WarriorsE5 6b  
79The Lammergeyer TwinsE5 6b **1
80As Summers Die7a+ 2
81One Way ReflectionE5 6b * 
82Final ApocalypseE5 6b  
83The Myth of Masculinity7a+ 1
84Mr. Puniverse7a+ 2
85The Ego has Landed7b+ 2
86The Amnicolist Spies on the Black SubmarineE5 6b 1
87Living with a Porcupine7a 3
88Once upon a Time7a+ 1
89Tree Surgeon7b 1
90The Fall7c+ * 
93Alimoany7b+ *2
94Honeymoon BluesE5 6b **6
95Salar8a *12
96Slapin7c 6
97Slapdasher7a 18
98LapinE3 5c 5
99Welsh Rarebit6b+ 40
100Blue Eyed MyxamatoidE3 5c  
101HareE3 5c 1
102Changing FortunesE4 6b  
103Chairs MissingE4 6b *6
104A Tall StoryE5 6c *1
105DragonflightE3 5c **58
106The Dragon Flight Traversef6A+ *40
107JezebelE5 6a **6
108KingfisherE5 6c **1
109JawsE5 6b **6
110Plectrum Maxilla DirectE7 6c * 
111Barracuda8b *1
112Caviar8a+ **14
113Caviar Startf7B *3
114Beluga8a+ **4
116Let the Tribe Increase8a *9
117Dangerous Tribes8a *2
118The Dangerous Brothers8a *18
119Too Old to be Bold7c *54
120CootE4 6a 7
121PiranhaE6 6b **8
122Piranha Startf7A *16
123Piranha Traversef7A *4
124CoraE6 6c *2
125White BaitE5 6c **5
126White Bait (start)f6C 13
127Flake Out Shake OutE4 6c  
129A Miller's TaleE5 6b **8
130A Miller's Tale Startf6B+ *246
131Kudosf7B *110
132Kudos Originalf7C *9
133Kudos - the Hard Wayf7B *22
134Kudos Hard Way Sit Startf7B+ 3
135Kudos Sit Startf7B+ *8
136Kudos traversef7B **38
137The Pinchf7C *2
138Hot Fun Closing8a *25
139A Bigger Tailf7A *117
140Johnny Gf7C 2
141An Even Bigger Tail7b+ *31
142A Bigger Tail Stand Startf7C *1
143A Bigger Bellyf8B * 
144The Pressf7B+ **48
145The Press - Kneeling Startf7C+ *2
146The Press - Low Right Startf8A **2
147The Press - Low Left Startf8A+ **1
148A Bigger Splashf7A+ 64
149A Bigger Splash Directf7B *97
150Bigger Splash Direct - Kneeling Startf7C **10
151Bigger Splash Direct - Low Right Startf7C **2
152A Bigger Prizef7A 118
153Tsunamif8A **11
154Tsunamishf7C+ *1
155Dancing Fishf8A **2
156Dancing Fish Standingf7B ***3
158Water BaliffHVS 4c 2
159FreewheelerHVS 4c  
160Professor KirkE5 6b  
161MaureenE4 6a  
162Sperm WormE5 6a  
163Dumb AnimalE5 6a  
164Last But Not Least7a 28
165The Pinch Test7c+ *2
166The AnglerE6 6c *1
167The Wimp7c *2
168The Sissy8a *24
169Zeke the Freak8b ***12
170The Bastard8c ** 
171Truely Awesome7a+ *14
172Rubicon7a ***352
173Zeitgeist7b *44
174No Jug, No ThugE5 6b *1
175The Bomb is Coming7a *7
176Toenail PieE2 5b 16
177Warm-up Traversef5 **158
178High Traversef5+ 102
179Middle Traversef6A+ *124
180Low traversef6B+ *73
181Toenail Leftf6A+ *94
182Toenail Pie Startf5 *150
183DebrisE4 5c 3
184Debris Groovef6A 66
185The Debris Dynof6C **25
186Crimps and Pocketsf6B 67
187Peg's Pathf6B 69
188Sharp Pocketsf5+ 81
189Small But Perfectly Formed7a+ 12
190Skippy the Bush Kangaroo WeirdE3 6c 3
191Approach Traversef7A 13
193Nude Moatorcycle Girl7a 3
194Out of the Shadows7b *2
195Another Moatside Attraction7a+ *4
196Moat MadnessE5 6b *1
197Sheer PowerE5 6b  
198SheerwaterHVS 5b 2
199The Lady of the LakeE5 6b *4
200D.T.'s RouteE5 6b  
201Drawbridge Down When the Levee Breaks7c  
202ExcaliburE6 6b **1
203No Mud, No Thud7b+ **4
204A Bigger Thud7c *4
205A Bigger Splat7a *7
206Let the Tripe Increase7c **17
207All Hands to the Pump7c+  
208Moatorhead7b+ **14
209Coming up for Air7c  
210Moat People7b+ **53
211Afloat in the Moat6c+ **55
212Piranha WallE3 5c 3
213TritonE3 5c 6
214Jaws llE5 6b  
215The Flying DutchmanE6 6c * 
216Two Sheep to Leicester7a *7
217Searching for the Yeti7b *2
218Moat WallE5 6c 1
219Moat Race6c+ 3
220Moat PuddingsE4 6a 2
221Castle Puddings6b+ 3
223You Got No Reason7a  
224Rhyme Crime7a+ 1
225Who got Rhyme6c 1
226Rhyme and Reason6c 4
227Reserve Judgement7a 5
228Happy Days6c+ 2
229Oh Dear!6c+ 6
230Four Men Tour6c 7
231Val de Mossa6c+ 4
232Blanca Expression7a 1
233The Majorca Alternative7a+ 14
234Costa del Jolly7a 7
235Wish you were here6b 6
236Do I?6b+ 2
237Mission Impossible8a * 
238Karma Killer8b **3
239Agent Provocateur8a+ **4
240Secret Agent8a+ *1
241perfecto7c+ *1
242Trainer Tamer7b+ 2
243Breakbeat8a * 
244One on One7a+ 1
245Under Western EyesE5 6b  
247Alpha GrooveVD  
248Sting in the TailE4 6a  
249Puffy White FleshE2 6a  
250CrystallineS 1
251The Gully 1933S 4b 2
252Bandwagon on DirectionE5 6a  
253The Bulge 1984E5 6b 1
254The Thatcher YearsE5 6b 13
255Nothing to Help the PoorE5 6b 1
256Incapacity Benefit7a+ **66
257The Dole 19897b+ *9
258Yorkshire 8b7c+ *4
259Ape Index8b+ * 
260The Weakling7c+ **4
261Brachiation Dance7b+ ***120
262The Free Monster8a ***39
263The Auctioneer8a+ ***7
264Rumble in the Jungle8a+ **6
265Monsterosity8b ***6
266Albatrossity8a+ ***7
267Superfly8a+ **1
268Eclipsed8b **1
269The Disillusioned Glue Machine8a **7
270Empire Burlesque7c+ *4
271The Nasty Man7c *2
272Goldcrest7c+ *1
273Sirius7c+ *2
274Atilla the Hun7a+ *5
275Catch the Rainbow6c 14
276Superocity8b *1
277Barbarossity8b ***1
278Belladona7b 3
279Releasable Abseil1 *1
281SpellboundHVS 5c  
282Witchcraft WallE3 6b  
283Belladonna7b *1
284Black SabbathHVS 5b  
285Vicar's VertigoE1 5b 6
286Sermon WallVS 1
287ConfusionE3 6b 1
288Ribcrusher CrackVS 5a 1
290Ringing ChimneyD 2
292Te DeumE3 5b  
293Hammy Hamster's Last RitesE3 5c *1
294Chiming CrackE4 6a *2
295Dangerous LiaisonsE5 6b *1
296Carillon CrackE3 5c *3
297Silent StormE5 6a *1
298Carol's CrackE3 5c *5
299Hemmingway's HorrorE2 5c *6
300The Importance of Being ErnestE4 6a  
301The BellringerE2 5c 5
302It Tolls for Thee6c+ * 
303Vapour Stream7a+ 2
304La Belle AgeE6 6b 1
305En Masse DescendreE6 6b ** 
306In BulkE6 6b **1
307LeviathanE5 6b *1
308St. PaulE3 5c *24
309St Paul Direct StartE3 6a 4
310Paulliac7c **2
311BehemothE5 6b ***21
312That'll Do NicelyE5 6b **3
313Yankee DollarE5 6b 1
314The Treadmill7b+ *6
315Fort KnoxE5 6a 2
316Fort Knox Direct7b 1
317The TrollE2 5c 5
318Crumbling CracksHVS 4c 3
319Squatter's RightsHVS 4c  
320My Fickle Resolve6c+ 1
321Une Jour Parfait7b * 
322WarheadE4 6a 2
323Fire on Water7b+ **5
324The AlienE4 6b **29
325AliensE6 6c * 
326White FrightE6 6b * 
327Knuckle KnockerE3 5c *10
328WarE5 6a *3
329Freedom is Insane7a *5
330Hairy LegsE3 6a 4
331AftervisionE2 5c 2
332Deja Vu6c 2
333HeatwaveVS 4c  
334No Chains on Me6c+ 2
335The Chain Gang6c+ *1
336The Chain Gang (Trad)E5 6a 1
337Escape Artist7a+ * 
338Cool Hand LukeE5 6b *1
339DisparagementE5 6a *2
340Time WarpE5 6a  
341Fatal AttractionE5 6a 6
342Fatal HesitationE6 6b  
343SoxE5 6a *2
344La Brute7a * 
345La ChuteE5 6b *4
346La RouteE4 6a *3
347Coldity GrooveE3 5c 2
348Coldity CrackE1 5b 6
349C'est Plastique6c *2
350Plastic WonderVS 4c  
351Plastic BlinkersHVS 5b  
352GwendolineHVS 5a 2
353Orient routeD  
354Dis-orientated6b+ 1
355Scoopy Little NumberE2 5b *1
356Fools Rush InE1 5c 3
358Tip Toe WallHVS 5a 2
359Yukon GrooveVD * 
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer kristian

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
being blind, please ignore/delete
Paul B - 18/Jul/11
Superocity (F.A. Simon Reed I think) needs adding.
Paul B - 18/Jul/11
The sport route near Thatcher Years is in fact called "Incapacity Benift". A few people need to edit their logs!
kristian - 01/Oct/08
Need to add The Auctioneer 8a+ kieth Sharples July 2001. Left of Rumble. Eclipsed 8b Steve fearn Aug 99 L of glue machine. Ape Index Steve mclure Aug 2000 8b+ R of Yorkshire 8b. Gold Cresr hard 7C+ Right of Glue Machine Also best routes on Crag are Albatrocity (best 8a+ in Peak) Auctioneer, Brachiation, Freemonster and Monsterocity.
Simon Reed - 24/Oct/03