Water-cum-Jolly

Climbs 346 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 205m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
The River Wye continues south and west from Chee Dale, past Miller’s Dale, into Water-cum-Jolly. In many ways this is Chee Dale's neglected little sister, the routes and buttresses are shorter and often the rock is of a lesser quality. On the plus side, a good track runs through the valley, it has a pleasant open aspect and quite a number of the cliffs catch the sun, with another set offering shady retreat in hot weather. Many of the routes in Water-cum-Jolly have been neglected in recent years. Those which rely on fixed gear are slowly being rebolted but others should be regarded now as unclimbable. This is especially true on Lammergeyer Buttress, and some of Moat and Central Buttresses - these routes have been included in this book since they may be rebolted in the future. Apart from the ever-popular Rubicon Wall, and the Cornice when it is in condition, you are very likely to have most of the routes here to yourself.

Access in WCJ is very sensitive so please follow the described approaches and notes included with each buttress introduction very carefully. The rights to the north riverbank in WCJ is owned by an angling club. They are willing to allow climbers and walkers access to the dale but please do nothing to disturb their fishing activities. The section including Jackdaw Point, Upper Circle and Ping Pong Area is a wildlife reserve owned and managed by Derbyshire Wildlife Trust. They are willing to allow climbing on these three buttresses but only within strict limits and providing climbers use the described approaches only. There should be no new routes and no gardening of any kind on these buttresses. The other sections, including the south bank, are owned by various land owners. Access to these buttresses isn't a problem but climbers should make as little disturbance as possible since the whole dale is important for wildlife of all kinds. Apart from lower-offs, no extra gear should be left on the routes, this includes fixed slings and krabs.

Access notes
Litton Mill Approach - From the B6049 Tideswell to Miller's Dale road, take the sharp turn towards Litton Mill and past the Angler's Rest pub. Park at the small parking spot about 200m past Raven Tor and just before the signs dissuading you from continuing to the village. Follow the road on foot and continue past the old mill (now apartments) onto the valley bottom path.

Cressbrook Approach - Descend into Monsal Dale and follow the valley bottom road all the way to Cressbrook. Park here on the roadside opposite the new flats development in the old mill. A well-marked path leads up into the dale proper. As Rubicon Wall comes into view there is a bridge on the left which leads to the south bank and the Cornice.

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone (2012), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), Peak Limestone - Wye Valley (1999),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 VISION BUTTRESS  
2Sunshine Super FrogE6 6c 1
3The Vision7c+ **2
4Knocked Out Loaded7c **1
5Agrippa's KneesE6 6b  
 JACKDAW POINT  
7Ground ControlE1 5b 2
8Skyline PigeonE5 6b  
9Armed With an Empty GunE4 6a *2
10ErithacusE2 5b *29
11Army DreamersE2 5c *24
12Fledgling FlakesHVS 5b *18
13Burning Up TimeE3 6a *12
14Nervous and ShakyE4 6a  
15FledglingVS 4c 11
16Trial RunVS 4c 2
17First FlightHVS 5a 4
18PalmoliveE1 5c *17
19Endless FlightE2 5c *17
20Fear of FlyingE2 5b *24
21Flight PathVS 4b 3
22Victory RollVS 4c 2
 UPPER CIRCLE  
24Hesitation DanceE5 6a  
25SpecialistE4 6c  
26Pragma8a+ * 
27Eat the Rich7c *11
28Three Spheres8b **2
29The Inch Test8a+ **5
30Psychic EmulatorE3 6b  
31Splinter in the Mind's EyeE2 6b 1
32Sweet WilliamE2 5c *4
33Western SamoaE4 6b  
34Dead Tree GrooveE2 5c *13
35Palace of TyrannyE1 5b  
36Trench WarfareE2 5b  
37Sweet FAE1 5b 1
38Dead Tree CrackE1 5b *9
39Reptar on IceE1 5b  
40Christmas CracksVS 4c 7
41EuromanHVS 5a 3
42Looking GoodE4 6a  
43Nidhšgg Loves JormungandE3 6a  
44CicatrixHVS 5a 1
45Going BushE5 6c  
 PING PONG AREA  
47Jungle JimE2 5b 1
48Tree Dweller's CrackE3 6a  
49DeceptionE4 6a **18
50Rio VerdeE4 6b *4
51Confidence Trick7b+  
52Matto Grosso ChimneyVS 4c  
53MandrakeE5 6a **7
54Chistiliano WallE4 6b  
55Marsh Dweller's RibE3 6a  
56The PongerVS 4b 1
57PingHVS 5b **67
58Ping PongE1 5b **59
59Desmond DouglasE2 5c *10
60PongE1 5b 3
61The Creative UrgeHVS 5b  
62Virgin's CrackVS 4b 10
63Sour GrapesE1 6a 1
 PSYCHE'S BUTTRESS  
65The ArrowS 1
66SummonsE4 5c  
67Nappy SquadE5 6b  
68Dreams of LeavingE2 5c  
69Love is the Drug6c+ 1
70The Still Small VoiceE3 5c **2
71Strip SearchE2 5c  
72Bow String GrooveVS 2
73The KeepS 4
74The FairyD 1
 LAMMERGEYER BUTTRESS  
76ZobE2 6a  
77Part-time HobbyE2 5b  
78Aquarian WarriorsE5 6b  
79The Lammergeyer TwinsE5 6b 1
80As Summers Die7a+ 2
81One Way ReflectionE5 6b * 
82Final ApocalypseE5 6b  
83The Myth of Masculinity7a+ 1
84Mr. Puniverse7a+ 2
85The Ego has Landed7b+ 2
86The Amnicolist Spies on the Black SubmarineE5 6b 1
87Living with a Porcupine7a 3
88Once upon a Time7a+ 1
89Tree Surgeon7b 1
90The Fall7c+ * 
91Vindicator7c  
 RUBICON - LEFT  
93Alimoany7b+ 2
94Honeymoon BluesE5 6b *6
95Salar8a *13
96Slapin7c *6
97Slapdasher7a *18
98LapinE3 5c 5
99Welsh Rarebit6b+ *40
100Blue Eyed MyxamatoidE3 5c  
101HareE3 5c 1
102Changing FortunesE4 6b  
103Chairs MissingE4 6b *6
104A Tall StoryE5 6c *1
105DragonflightE3 5c **58
106The Dragon Flight TraverseV3 *40
107JezebelE5 6a **8
108KingfisherE5 6c *2
109JawsE5 6b *6
110Plectrum Maxilla DirectE7 6c * 
111Barracuda8b *1
112Caviar8a+ ***14
113Caviar Startf7B *3
114Beluga8a+ *4
115Eugenics8b+  
116Let the Tribe Increase8a *9
117Dangerous Tribes8a *2
118The Dangerous Brothers8a **18
119Too Old to be Bold7c *54
120CootE4 6a 7
121PiranhaE6 6b ***8
122Piranha Startf7A *17
123Piranha Traversef7A *4
124CoraE6 6c *2
125White BaitE5 6c **5
126White Bait (start)f6C 13
127Flake Out Shake OutE4 6c  
 KUDOS WALL  
129A Miller's TaleE5 6b **8
130A Miller's Tale Startf6B+ *249
131Kudosf7B *111
132Kudos Originalf7C *10
133Kudos - the Hard Wayf7B *23
134Kudos Hard Way Sit Startf7B+ 3
135Kudos Sit Startf7B+ *9
136Kudos Original Sit Startf7C+ 1
137Kudos traversef7B **38
138The Pinchf7C *2
139Hot Fun Closing8a **26
140A Bigger Tail7b+ **118
141Johnny Gf7C 3
142An Even Bigger Tail7b+ *31
143A Bigger Tail Stand Startf7C *1
144A Bigger Bellyf8B * 
145The PressV9 **49
146The Press - Kneeling Startf7C+ *3
147The Press - Low Right Startf8A **2
148The Press - Low Left Startf8A+ **1
149A Bigger SplashV7 *66
150A Bigger Splash Directf7B *100
151Bigger Splash Direct - Kneeling Startf7C **10
152Bigger Splash Direct - Low Right Startf7C **2
153A Bigger Prizef7A 120
154Tsunamif8A **11
155Tsunamishf7C+ *1
156Dancing Fishf8A **2
157Dancing Fish Standingf7B ***3
 RUBICON - RIGHT  
159Water BaliffHVS 4c 2
160FreewheelerHVS 4c  
161Professor KirkE5 6b  
162MaureenE4 6a  
163Sperm WormE5 6a  
164Dumb AnimalE5 6a  
165Last But Not Least7a *28
166The Pinch Test7c+ *2
167The AnglerE6 6c *1
168The Wimp7c *2
169The Sissy8a *24
170Zeke the Freak8b ***12
171The Bastard8c+ ** 
172Truely Awesome7a+ *14
173Rubicon7a ***354
174Zeitgeist7b *44
175No Jug, No ThugE5 6b *1
176The Bomb is Coming7a *7
177Toenail PieE2 5b 16
178Warm-up Traversef5 **158
179High Traversef5+ 102
180Middle Traversef6A+ *124
181Low traversef6B+ *73
182Toenail Leftf6A+ *94
183Toenail Pie Startf5 *150
184DebrisE4 5c 4
185Debris Groovef6A 66
186The Debris Dynof6C **25
187Crimps and Pocketsf6B 67
188Peg's Pathf6B 69
189Sharp Pocketsf5+ 81
190Small But Perfectly Formed7a+ 12
191Skippy the Bush Kangaroo WeirdE3 6c 3
192Approach Traversef7A 13
 MOAT BUTTRESS  
194Nude Moatorcycle Girl7a 3
195Out of the Shadows7b *2
196Another Moatside Attraction7a+ *4
197Moat MadnessE5 6b *1
198Sheer PowerE5 6b  
199SheerwaterE1 5b *2
200The Lady of the LakeE5 6b *4
201D.T.'s RouteE5 6b  
202Drawbridge Down When the Levee BreaksE6 6c  
203ExcaliburE6 6b **1
204No Mud, No ThudE6 6b 4
205A Bigger Thud7c *4
206A Bigger Splat7a *7
207Let the Tripe Increase7c **18
208All Hands to the Pump7c+  
209Moatorhead7b+ **14
210Coming up for Air7c * 
211Moat People7b+ **53
212Afloat in the Moat6c+ *55
213Piranha WallE3 5c 3
214TritonE4 5c 6
215Jaws llE5 6b  
216The Flying DutchmanE6 6c * 
217Two Sheep to Leicester7a+ *7
218Searching for the Yeti7b *2
219Moat WallE5 6c 1
220Moat Race6c+ 3
221Moat PuddingsE4 6a 2
222Castle Puddings6b+ 3
 MAJORCA CRUNCH BUTTRESS  
224You Got No Reason7a  
225Rhyme Crime7a+ 1
226Who got Rhyme6c 1
227Rhyme and Reason6c 6a *4
228Reserve Judgement7a 6a 5
229Happy Days6c+ 6a *2
230Oh Dear!6c+ 6a *6
231Four Men Tour6c *7
232Val de Mossa6c+ 4
233Blanca Expression7a *1
234The Majorca Alternative7a+ *14
235Costa del Jolly7a *7
236Wish you were here6b 6
237Do I?6b+ 2
238Mission Impossible8a+ * 
239Karma Killer8b **3
240Agent Provocateur8a+ **4
241Secret Agent8a+ *1
242perfecto7c+ 1
243Trainer Tamer7b+ 2
244Breakbeat8a * 
245One on One7a+ 1
246Under Western EyesE5 6b  
 THE CORNICE  
248Alpha GrooveVD  
249Sting in the TailE4 6a  
250Puffy White FleshE2 6a  
251CrystallineS 1
252The Gully 1933S 4b 2
253Bandwagon on DirectionE5 6a  
254The Bulge 1984E5 6b 1
255The Thatcher YearsE5 6b 13
256Nothing to Help the PoorE5 6b 1
257Incapacity Benefit7a+ **66
258The Dole 19897c *9
259Yorkshire 8b8a *4
260Ape Index8b+ * 
261The Weakling7c+ **4
262Brachiation Dance7b+ ***122
263The Free Monster8a ***40
264The Auctioneer8a+ ***7
265Rumble in the Jungle8a+ ***6
266Monsterosity8b ***6
267Albatrossity8a+ ***7
268Superfly8a+ **1
269Eclipsed8a+ **1
270The Disillusioned Glue Machine8a **7
271Empire Burlesque7c+ *4
272The Nasty Man7c *2
273Goldcrest8a *1
274Sirius7c+ *2
275Atilla the Hun7a+ 5
276Catch the Rainbow6c 14
277Superocity8a+ **1
278Barbarossity8a+ **1
279Belladona7b 3
280Releasable Abseil1 *1
 WITCHCRAFT WALL  
282SpellboundHVS 5c  
283Witchcraft WallE3 6b  
284Belladonna7b *1
285Black SabbathHVS 5b  
286Vicar's VertigoE1 5b 6
287Sermon WallVS 1
288ConfusionE3 6b 1
289Ribcrusher CrackVS 5a 1
 CENTRAL BUTTRESS  
291Ringing ChimneyD 2
292Tiddle-de-Dum6c  
293Te DeumE3 5b  
294Hammy Hamster's Last RitesE2 5c *1
295Chiming CrackE4 6a *2
296Dangerous LiaisonsE5 6b *1
297Carillon CrackE3 5c *3
298Silent StormE5 6a *1
299Carol's CrackE3 5c *5
300Hemmingway's HorrorE2 5c *6
301The Importance of Being ErnestE4 6a  
302The BellringerE2 5c 5
303It Tolls for Thee6c+ * 
304Vapour Stream7a+ 6a *2
305La Belle AgeE6 6b *1
306En Masse DescendreE6 6b * 
307In BulkE6 6b **1
308LeviathanE5 6b *1
309St. PaulE3 5c **24
310St Paul Direct StartE3 6a *4
311Paulliac7c **2
312BehemothE5 6b ***21
313That'll Do NicelyE5 6b 3
314Yankee DollarE5 6b 1
315The Treadmill7b *6
316Fort KnoxE5 6a 2
317Fort Knox Direct7b *1
318The TrollE3 5c 5
319Crumbling CracksHVS 4c 3
320Squatter's RightsHVS 4c  
321My Fickle Resolve6c+ *1
322Une Jour Parfait7b * 
323WarheadE3 6a 2
324Fire on Water7b+ **5
325The AlienE4 6b ***29
326AliensE6 6c * 
327White FrightE6 6b * 
328Knuckle KnockerE3 5c *10
329WarE5 6a 3
330Freedom is Insane7a *5
331Hairy LegsE3 6a 4
332AftervisionE2 5c 2
333Deja Vu6c *2
334HeatwaveHVS 4c  
335No Chains on Me6c+ *2
336The Chain Gang6c+ *1
337The Chain Gang (Trad)6c+ 6a *1
338Escape Artist7a+ * 
339Cool Hand LukeE5 6b 1
340DisparagementE5 6a 2
341Time WarpE4 6b  
342Fatal Attraction7b 6a **6
343Fatal Hesitation7b+ 6c * 
344SoxE5 6a *2
345La Brute7a * 
346La ChuteE5 6b **4
347La RouteE4 6a *3
348Coldity GrooveE3 5c 2
349Coldity CrackE1 5b 6
350C'est Plastique6c 2
351Plastic WonderVS 4c  
352Plastic BlinkersHVS 5b  
353GwendolineHVS 5a 2
354Orient routeD  
355Dis-orientated6b+ 1
356Scoopy Little NumberE2 5b *1
357Fools Rush InE1 5c 3
 MILL BUTTRESS  
359Tip Toe WallHVS 5a 2
360Yukon GrooveVD * 
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer kristian

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
being blind, please ignore/delete
Paul B - 18/Jul/11
Superocity (F.A. Simon Reed I think) needs adding.
Paul B - 18/Jul/11
The sport route near Thatcher Years is in fact called "Incapacity Benift". A few people need to edit their logs!
kristian - 01/Oct/08
Need to add The Auctioneer 8a+ kieth Sharples July 2001. Left of Rumble. Eclipsed 8b Steve fearn Aug 99 L of glue machine. Ape Index Steve mclure Aug 2000 8b+ R of Yorkshire 8b. Gold Cresr hard 7C+ Right of Glue Machine Also best routes on Crag are Albatrocity (best 8a+ in Peak) Auctioneer, Brachiation, Freemonster and Monsterocity.
Simon Reed - 24/Oct/03