Water-cum-Jolly

Climbs 360 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 205m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features

The River Wye continues south and west from Chee Dale, past Miller’s Dale, into Water-cum-Jolly. In many ways this is Chee Dale's neglected little sister, the routes and buttresses are shorter and often the rock is of a lesser quality. On the plus side, a good track runs through the valley, it has a pleasant open aspect and quite a number of the cliffs catch the sun, with another set offering shady retreat in hot weather. Many of the routes in Water-cum-Jolly have been neglected in recent years. Those which rely on fixed gear are slowly being rebolted but others should be regarded now as unclimbable. This is especially true on Lammergeyer Buttress, and some of Moat and Central Buttresses - these routes have been included in this book since they may be rebolted in the future. Apart from the ever-popular Rubicon Wall, and the Cornice when it is in condition, you are very likely to have most of the routes here to yourself.


Access in WCJ is very sensitive so please follow the described approaches and notes included with each buttress introduction very carefully. The rights to the north riverbank in WCJ is owned by an angling club. They are willing to allow climbers and walkers access to the dale but please do nothing to disturb their fishing activities. The section including Jackdaw Point, Upper Circle and Ping Pong Area is a wildlife reserve owned and managed by Derbyshire Wildlife Trust. They are willing to allow climbing on these three buttresses but only within strict limits and providing climbers use the described approaches only. There should be no new routes and no gardening of any kind on these buttresses. The other sections, including the south bank, are owned by various land owners. Access to these buttresses isn't a problem but climbers should make as little disturbance as possible since the whole dale is important for wildlife of all kinds. Apart from lower-offs, no extra gear should be left on the routes, this includes fixed slings and krabs.

Approach notes

Litton Mill Approach - From the B6049 Tideswell to Miller's Dale road, take the sharp turn towards Litton Mill and past the Angler's Rest pub. Park at the small parking spot about 200m past Raven Tor and just before the signs dissuading you from continuing to the village. Follow the road on foot and continue past the old mill (now apartments) onto the valley bottom path.
Cressbrook Approach - Descend into Monsal Dale and follow the valley bottom road all the way to Cressbrook. Park here on the roadside opposite the new flats development in the old mill. A well-marked path leads up into the dale proper. As Rubicon Wall comes into view there is a bridge on the left which leads to the south bank and the Cornice.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone North (2015), Peak Limestone (2012), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), Peak Limestone - Wye Valley (1999),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 VISION BUTTRESS  
2Sunshine Super FrogE6 6c 1
3The VisionE6 6c **2
4Knocked Out LoadedE6 6c **1
5Agrippa's KneesE6 6b  
 JACKDAW POINT  
7Ground ControlE1 5b 2
8Skyline PigeonE5 6b  
9Armed With an Empty GunE4 6a *2
10ErithacusE2 5b *30
11Army DreamersE2 5c *26
12Fledgling FlakesHVS 5b *19
13Burning Up TimeE3 6a *12
14Nervous and ShakyE4 6a  
15FledglingVS 4c 11
16Trial RunVS 4c 2
17First FlightHVS 5a 4
18PalmoliveE1 5c *18
19Endless FlightE2 5c *17
20Fear of FlyingE2 5b *25
21Flight PathVS 4b 3
22Victory RollVS 4c 2
 UPPER CIRCLE  
24Hesitation DanceE5 6a  
25SpecialistE4 6c  
26Pragma8a+ * 
27Eat the Rich7c *12
28Three Spheres8b **2
29The Inch Test8a+ **5
30Psychic EmulatorE3 6b  
31Splinter in the Mind's EyeE2 6b 1
32Sweet WilliamE2 5c *4
33Western SamoaE4 6b  
34Dead Tree GrooveE2 5c *14
35Palace of TyrannyE1 5b  
36Trench WarfareE2 5b  
37Sweet FAE1 5b 1
38Dead Tree CrackE1 5b *9
39Reptar on IceE1 5b  
40Christmas CracksVS 4c 8
41EuromanHVS 5a 4
42Looking GoodE4 6a  
43Nidhšgg Loves JormungandE3 6a  
44CicatrixHVS 5a 1
45Going BushE5 6c  
 PING PONG AREA  
47Jungle JimE2 5b 1
48Tree Dweller's CrackE3 6a  
49DeceptionE4 6a **18
50Rio VerdeE4 6b *4
51Confidence Trick7b+  
52Matto Grosso ChimneyVS 4c  
53MandrakeE5 6a **7
54Chistiliano WallE4 6b  
55Marsh Dweller's RibE3 6a  
56The PongerVS 4b 1
57PingHVS 5b **75
58Ping PongE1 5b **63
59Desmond DouglasE2 5c *11
60PongE1 5b 3
61The Creative UrgeHVS 5b  
62Virgin's CrackVS 4b 11
63Sour GrapesE1 6a 1
 PSYCHE'S BUTTRESS  
65The ArrowS 1
66SummonsE4 5c  
67Nappy SquadE5 6b  
68Dreams of LeavingE2 5c  
69Love is the Drug6c+ 1
70The Still Small VoiceE3 5c **2
71Strip SearchE2 5c  
72Bow String GrooveVS 3
73The KeepS 4
74The FairyD 1
 LAMMERGEYER BUTTRESS  
76ZobE2 6a  
77Part-time HobbyE2 5b  
78Aquarian WarriorsE5 6b  
79The Lammergeyer TwinsE5 6b 1
80As Summers Die7a+ 2
81One Way ReflectionE5 6b * 
82Final ApocalypseE5 6b  
83The Myth of Masculinity7a+ 1
84Mr. Puniverse7a+ 2
85The Ego has Landed7b+ 2
86The Amnicolist Spies on the Black SubmarineE5 6b 1
87Living with a Porcupine7a 3
88Once upon a Time7a+ 1
89Tree Surgeon7b 1
90The Fall7c+ * 
91Vindicator7c 5
92SkyFall7c+ *1
 RUBICON - LEFT  
94Alimoany7b+ 3
95Honeymoon BluesE5 6b *6
96Salar8a *17
97Slapin7c *7
98Slapdasher7a *21
99LapinE3 5c 5
100Welsh Rarebit6b+ *45
101Blue Eyed MyxamatoidE3 5c  
102The Brer Faced Cheek of It6a 1
103HareE3 5c 1
104Changing FortunesE4 6b 1
105Chairs MissingE4 6b *7
106A Tall StoryE5 6c *1
107DragonflightE3 5c **62
108The Dragon Flight TraverseV3 *42
109JezebelE5 6a **8
110KingfisherE5 6c *2
111JawsE5 6b *6
112Plectrum Maxilla DirectE7 6c * 
113Barracuda8b *1
114Caviar8a+ ***16
115Caviar Startf7B *4
116Beluga8a+ *4
117Eugenics8b+  
118Let the Tribe Increase8a *10
119Dangerous Tribes8a *2
120The Dangerous Brothers8a **18
121Too Old to be Bold7c *59
122CootE4 6a 7
123PiranhaE6 6b ***9
124Piranha Startf7A *21
125Piranha Traversef7A *5
126CoraE6 6c *2
127White BaitE5 6c **5
128White Bait (start)f6C 16
129Flake Out Shake OutE4 6c  
 KUDOS WALL  
131A Miller's TaleE5 6b **9
132A Miller's Tale Startf6B+ *282
133Kudosf7B *121
134Kudos Originalf7C *10
135Kudos - the Hard Wayf7B *23
136Kudos Hard Way Sit Startf7B+ 3
137Kudos Sit Startf7B+ *9
138Kudos Original Sit Startf7C+ 1
139Kudos traversef7B **41
140The Pinchf7C *2
141Hot Fun Closing8a **28
142A Bigger Tail7b+ **137
143Johnny Gf7C 4
144An Even Bigger Tail7b+ *39
145A Bigger Tail Stand Startf7C *1
146A Bigger Bellyf8B * 
147The PressV9 **54
148The Press - Kneeling Startf7C+ *6
149The Press - Low Right Startf8A **2
150The Press - Low Left Startf8A+ **1
151A Bigger SplashV7 *76
152A Bigger Splash Directf7B *113
153Bigger Splash Direct - Kneeling Startf7C **11
154Bigger Splash Direct - Low Right Startf7C **4
155A Bigger Prizef7A 153
156Tsunamif8A **15
157Tsunamishf7C+ *1
158Dancing Fishf8A **3
159Dancing Fish Standingf7B ***6
 RUBICON - RIGHT  
161Water BaliffHVS 4c 2
162FreewheelerHVS 4c  
163Professor KirkE5 6b  
164MaureenE4 6a  
165Sperm WormE5 6a  
166Dumb AnimalE5 6a  
167Last But Not Least7a *33
168The Pinch Test7c+ *2
169The AnglerE6 6c *1
170The Wimp7c *4
171The Sissy8a *32
172Zeke the Freak8b ***13
173The Bastard8c+ ** 
174Truely Awesome7a+ *14
175Rubicon7a ***414
176Zeitgeist7b *48
177No Jug, No ThugE5 6b *1
178Cruising the Seven SeasE6 6b * 
179The Bomb is Coming7a *7
180Toenail PieE2 5b 16
181Warm-up Traversef5 **176
182High Traversef5+ 126
183Middle Traversef6A+ *142
184Low traversef6B+ *81
185Toenail Leftf6A+ *95
186Toenail Pie Startf5 *167
187DebrisE4 5c 4
188Debris Groovef6A 76
189The Debris Dynof6C **25
190Crimps and Pocketsf6B 81
191Peg's Pathf6B 85
192Sharp Pocketsf5+ 99
193Small But Perfectly Formed7a+ 16
194Skippy the Bush Kangaroo WeirdE3 6c 3
195Approach Traversef7A 16
 MOAT BUTTRESS  
197Nude Moatorcycle Girl7a 3
198Out of the Shadows7b *2
199Another Moatside Attraction7a+ *4
200Moat MadnessE5 6b *1
201Sheer PowerE5 6b  
202SheerwaterE1 5b *2
203The Lady of the LakeE5 6b *4
204D.T.'s RouteE5 6b  
205Drawbridge Down When the Levee BreaksE6 6c  
206ExcaliburE6 6b **1
207No Mud, No Thud7b+ 5
208A Bigger Thud7c *4
209A Bigger Splat7a *10
210Let the Tripe Increase7c **23
211All Hands to the Pump7c+  
212Moatorhead7b+ **21
213Coming up for Air7c * 
214Moat People7b+ **76
215Afloat in the Moat6c+ *90
216Piranha WallE4 3
217TritonE4 5c 6
218Jaws llE5 6b  
219The Flying DutchmanE6 6c * 
220Two Sheep to Leicester7a+ *7
221Searching for the Yeti7b *2
222Moat WallE5 1
223Moat Race6c+ 3
224Moat PuddingsE5 2
225Castle Puddings6b+ 3
 MOAT/MAJORCA BOULDERING  
227Pinch Punch (Left Hand)f6C 1
228Pinch Punchf7A 1
229Tiger Stylef7A 1
230Uptown Top Rankingf7B 1
 MAJORCA CRUNCH BUTTRESS  
232You Got No Reason7a  
233Rhyme Crime7a+ 1
234Who got Rhyme6c 4
235Rhyme and Reason6c *6
236Reserve Judgement7a 9
237Happy Days6c+ *3
238Oh Dear!6c+ *12
239Four Men Tour6c *25
240Val de Mossa6c+ 8
241Blanca Expression7a *4
242The Majorca Alternative7a+ *22
243Costa del Jolly7a *12
244Wish you were here6b 19
245Do I?6b+ 9
246Mission Impossible8a+ * 
247Karma Killer8b **3
248Agent Provocateur8a+ **6
249Secret Agent8a+ *1
250perfecto7c+ 1
251Trainer Tamer7b+ 2
252Breakbeat8a * 
253One on One7a+ 1
254Under Western EyesE5 6b  
 THE CORNICE  
256Alpha GrooveVD  
257Sting in the TailE4 6a  
258Puffy White FleshE2 6a  
259CrystallineS 1
260The Gully 1933S 4b 2
261Bandwagon on DirectionE5 6a  
262The Bulge 1984E5 6b 1
263The Thatcher YearsE5 6b 13
264Nothing to Help the PoorE5 6b 1
265The Workhouse7a+ 2
266Poorlaw6c+  
267A Major Moment6c+ 9
268Supplementary Benefit7a+ 5
269Incapacity Benefit7a+ **90
270The Dole 19897c *9
271Yorkshire 8b8a *4
272Ape Index8b+ * 
273The Weakling7c+ **4
274Brachiation Dance7b+ ***150
275The Free Monster8a ***49
276The Auctioneer8a+ ***8
277Rumble in the Jungle8a+ ***10
278Monsterosity8b ***6
279Albatrossity8a+ ***7
280Superfly8a+ **1
281Eclipsed8a+ **1
282The Disillusioned Glue Machine8a **7
283Empire Burlesque7c+ *4
284The Nasty Man7c *2
285Goldcrest8a *1
286Sirius7c+ *2
287Atilla the Hun7a+ 5
288Catch the Rainbow6c 16
289Superocity8a+ **1
290Barbarossity8a+ **1
291Belladona7b 3
292Releasable Abseil1 *1
 TWO TIER BUTTRESS  
294Tierfull6b 1
295My Tiers led up to This6b *1
296Tiery Henry6b *1
297Under-Tiered6c *1
 WITCHCRAFT WALL  
299SpellboundHVS 5c  
300Witchcraft WallE3 6b  
301Belladonna7b *1
302Black SabbathHVS 5b  
303Vicar's VertigoE1 5b 6
304Sermon WallVS 1
305ConfusionE3 6b 1
306Ribcrusher CrackVS 5a 1
 CENTRAL BUTTRESS  
308Ringing ChimneyD 2
309Tiddle-de-Dum6c 2
310Te DeumE3 5b  
311Hammy Hamster's Last RitesE2 5c *3
312Chiming CrackE4 6a *4
313Dangerous LiaisonsE5 6b *1
314Carillon CrackE3 5c *3
315Silent StormE5 6a *1
316Carol's CrackE3 5c *5
317Hemmingway's HorrorE2 5c *7
318The Importance of Being ErnestE4 6a  
319The BellringerE2 5c 7
320It Tolls for Thee6c+ *4
321Vapour Stream7a+ *6
322La Belle AgeE6 6b *1
323En Masse DescendreE6 6b * 
324In BulkE6 6b **1
325LeviathanE5 6b *1
326St. PaulE3 5c *27
327St Paul Direct StartE3 6a *4
328Paulliac7c **2
329BehemothE5 6b ***22
330That'll Do NicelyE5 6b 3
331Yankee DollarE5 6b 1
332The Treadmill7b *8
333Fort KnoxE5 6a 2
334Fort Knox Direct7b *1
335The TrollE3 6a 6
336Crumbling CracksHVS 4b 4
337Squatter's RightsHVS 4c  
338My Fickle Resolve6c+ *3
339Une Jour Parfait7b *1
340WarheadE3 6a 2
341Fire on Water7b+ **5
342The AlienE4 6b ***29
343AliensE6 6c * 
344White FrightE6 6b * 
345Knuckle KnockerE3 5c *13
346WarE5 6a 3
347Freedom is Insane7a *13
348Hairy LegsE3 6a 4
349AftervisionE2 5c 2
350Deja Vu6c *5
351HeatwaveHVS 5a  
352No Chains on Me6c+ *7
353The Chain Gang6c+ *4
354The Chain Gang (Trad)6c+ *1
355Escape Artist7a+ *2
356Cool Hand LukeE5 6b 1
357DisparagementE5 6a 2
358Time WarpE4 6b  
359Fatal Attraction7b **9
360Fatal Hesitation7b+ *1
361SoxE5 6a *2
362La Brute7a *6
363La ChuteE5 6b **5
364La RouteE4 6a *4
365Coldity GrooveE3 5c 3
366Coldity CrackE1 5b 7
367C'est Plastique6c 11
368Plastic WonderVS 4c  
369Plastic BlinkersHVS 5b  
370GwendolineHVS 5a 2
371Orient routeD  
372Dis-orientated6b+ 3
373Scoopy Little NumberE2 5b *1
374Fools Rush InE1 5c 3
 MILL BUTTRESS  
376Tip Toe WallHVS 5a 2
377Yukon GrooveVD * 
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer kristian

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The sport route near Thatcher Years is in fact called "Incapacity Benift". A few people need to edit their logs!
kristian - 01/Oct/08
Need to add The Auctioneer 8a+ kieth Sharples July 2001. Left of Rumble. Eclipsed 8b Steve fearn Aug 99 L of glue machine. Ape Index Steve mclure Aug 2000 8b+ R of Yorkshire 8b. Gold Cresr hard 7C+ Right of Glue Machine Also best routes on Crag are Albatrocity (best 8a+ in Peak) Auctioneer, Brachiation, Freemonster and Monsterocity.
Simon Reed - 24/Oct/03