Climbs 366
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 205m a.s.l
Faces S

Rubicon wall © Ryan83

Crag features

The River Wye continues south and west from Chee Dale, past Miller’s Dale, into Water-cum-Jolly. In many ways this is Chee Dale's neglected little sister, the routes and buttresses are shorter and often the rock is of a lesser quality. On the plus side, a good track runs through the valley, it has a pleasant open aspect and quite a number of the cliffs catch the sun, with another set offering shady retreat in hot weather. Many of the routes in Water-cum-Jolly have been neglected in recent years. Those which rely on fixed gear are slowly being rebolted but others should be regarded now as unclimbable. This is especially true on Lammergeyer Buttress, and some of Moat and Central Buttresses - these routes have been included in this book since they may be rebolted in the future. Apart from the ever-popular Rubicon Wall, and the Cornice when it is in condition, you are very likely to have most of the routes here to yourself.

Access in WCJ is very sensitive so please follow the described approaches and notes included with each buttress introduction very carefully. The rights to the north riverbank in WCJ is owned by an angling club. They are willing to allow climbers and walkers access to the dale but please do nothing to disturb their fishing activities. The section including Jackdaw Point, Upper Circle and Ping Pong Area is a wildlife reserve owned and managed by Derbyshire Wildlife Trust. They are willing to allow climbing on these three buttresses but only within strict limits and providing climbers use the described approaches only. There should be no new routes and no gardening of any kind on these buttresses. The other sections, including the south bank, are owned by various land owners. Access to these buttresses isn't a problem but climbers should make as little disturbance as possible since the whole dale is important for wildlife of all kinds. Apart from lower-offs, no extra gear should be left on the routes, this includes fixed slings and krabs.

Approach notes

Litton Mill Approach - From the B6049 Tideswell to Miller's Dale road, take the sharp turn towards Litton Mill and past the Angler's Rest pub. Park at the small parking spot about 200m past Raven Tor and just before the signs dissuading you from continuing to the village. Follow the road on foot and continue past the old mill (now apartments) onto the valley bottom path.
Cressbrook Approach - Descend into Monsal Dale and follow the valley bottom road all the way to Cressbrook. Park here on the roadside opposite the new flats development in the old mill. A well-marked path leads up into the dale proper. As Rubicon Wall comes into view there is a bridge on the left which leads to the south bank and the Cornice.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
The sport route near Thatcher Years is in fact called "Incapacity Benift". A few people need to edit their logs!
kristian - 01/Oct/08
Need to add The Auctioneer 8a+ kieth Sharples July 2001. Left of Rumble. Eclipsed 8b Steve fearn Aug 99 L of glue machine. Ape Index Steve mclure Aug 2000 8b+ R of Yorkshire 8b. Gold Cresr hard 7C+ Right of Glue Machine Also best routes on Crag are Albatrocity (best 8a+ in Peak) Auctioneer, Brachiation, Freemonster and Monsterocity.
Simon Reed - 24/Oct/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Vision Buttress 
2Sunshine Super Frog
-
E6 6c 1
3The Vision
-
E6 6c **2
4Knocked Out Loaded
-
E6 6c **1
5Agrippa's Knees
-
E6 6b  
 Jackdaw Point 
7Ground ControlE1 5b 2
8Skyline Pigeon
-
E5 6b  
9Armed With an Empty GunE4 6a *2
10ErithacusE2 5b *31
11Army DreamersE2 5c *27
12Final SacrificeE1 5b 1
13Fledgling FlakesHVS 5b *19
14Burning Up TimeE3 6a *14
15Nervous and ShakyE4 6a  
16FledglingVS 4c 11
17Trial Run
-
VS 4c 2
18First FlightHVS 5a 5
19PalmoliveE1 5c *19
20Endless FlightE2 5c *17
21Fear of FlyingE2 5b *25
22Flight PathVS 4b 3
23Victory Roll
-
VS 4c 2
 Upper Circle 
25Hesitation Dance
-
E5 6a  
26SpecialistE4 6c  
27Pragma8a+ * 
28Eat the Rich7c *12
29Three Spheres8b **2
30The Inch Test8a+ **5
31Psychic EmulatorE3 6b  
32Splinter in the Mind's EyeE2 6b 1
33Sweet WilliamE2 5c *5
34Western SamoaE4 6b  
35Dead Tree GrooveE2 5c *16
36Palace of TyrannyE1 5b  
37Trench WarfareE2 5b  
38Sweet FAE1 5b 1
39Dead Tree CrackE1 5b *9
40Reptar on Ice
-
E1 5b  
41Christmas Cracks
-
VS 4c 8
42Euroman
-
HVS 5a 5
43Looking Good
-
E4 6a  
44Nidhšgg Loves Jormungand
-
E3 6a  
45CicatrixHVS 5a 2
46Going Bush
-
E5 6c  
 Ping Pong Area 
48Jungle Jim
-
E2 5b 1
49Tree Dweller's Crack
-
E3 6a  
50DeceptionE4 6a **18
51Rio VerdeE4 6b *4
52Confidence Trick7b+  
53Matto Grosso Chimney
-
VS 4c 1
54MandrakeE5 6a **7
55Chistiliano Wall
-
E4 6b  
56Marsh Dweller's Rib
-
E3 6a  
57The PongerVS 4b 1
58PingHVS 5b **80
59Ping PongE1 5b **65
60Desmond DouglasE2 5c *11
61Pong
-
E1 5b 4
62The Creative Urge
-
HVS 5b  
63Virgin's Crack
-
VS 4b 12
64Sour GrapesE1 6a 2
 Psyche's Buttress 
66The ArrowS 1
67Summons
-
E4 5c  
68Nappy Squad
-
E5 6b  
69Dreams of Leaving
-
E2 5c  
70Love is the Drug
-
6c+ 1
71The Still Small Voice
-
E3 5c **2
72Strip Search
-
E2 5c  
73Bow String Groove
-
VS 4
74Early One Morning
-
E2 5b,5c 1
75The Keep
-
S 4
76The Fairy
-
D 1
 Lammergeyer Buttress 
78Zob
-
E2 6a  
79Part-time Hobby
-
E2 5b  
80Aquarian Warriors
-
E5 6b  
81The Lammergeyer TwinsE5 6b 1
82As Summers Die7a+ 2
83One Way ReflectionE5 6b * 
84Final ApocalypseE5 6b  
85The Myth of Masculinity7a+ 1
86Mr. Puniverse7a+ 2
87The Ego has Landed7b+ 2
88The Amnicolist Spies on the Black SubmarineE5 6b 1
89Living with a Porcupine7a 5
90Once upon a Time7a+ 1
91Tree Surgeon7b 1
92The Fall7c+ * 
93Vindicator7c 5
94SkyFall7c+ *1
 Rubicon - Left 
96Alimoany7b+ 3
97The Honeymoon Is Over7c 1
98Decree Nici7b+  
99Honeymoon BluesE5 6b *8
100Salar8a *17
101Slapin7c *7
102Slapdasher7a *22
103LapinE3 5c 5
104Welsh Rarebit6b+ *44
105Blue Eyed Myxamatoid
-
E3 5c  
106The Brer Faced Cheek of It
-
6a 1
107HareE3 5c 1
108Changing FortunesE4 6b 1
109Chairs MissingE4 6b *7
110A Tall StoryE5 6c *1
111DragonflightE3 5c **62
112The Dragon Flight TraverseV3 *44
113JezebelE5 6a **8
114KingfisherE5 6c *2
115JawsE5 6b *6
116Plectrum Maxilla DirectE7 6c * 
117Barracuda8b *1
118Caviar8a+ ***16
119Caviar Start
-
f7B *6
120Beluga8a+ *4
121Eugenics8b+  
122Let the Tribe Increase8a *10
123Dangerous Tribes8a *2
124The Dangerous Brothers8a **18
125Too Old to be Bold7c *69
126CootE4 6a 7
127PiranhaE6 6b ***9
128Piranha Startf7A *28
129Piranha Traverse
-
f7A *6
130CoraE6 6c *2
131White BaitE5 6c **5
132White Bait (start)f6C 16
133Flake Out Shake OutE4 6c  
 Kudos Wall 
135A Miller's TaleE5 6b **9
136A Miller's Tale Startf6B+ *292
137Kudosf7B *141
138Kudos Originalf7C *12
139Kudos - the Hard Wayf7B *24
140Kudos Hard Way Sit Startf7B+ 4
141Kudos Sit Startf7B+ *12
142Kudos Original Sit Startf7C+ 2
143Kudos traverse
-
f7B **48
144The Pinchf7C *2
145Hot Fun Closing8a **29
146A Bigger Tail7b+ **148
147Johnny Gf7C 4
148An Even Bigger Tail7b+ *45
149A Bigger Tail Stand Startf7C *1
150A Bigger Bellyf8B * 
151The PressV9 **56
152The Press - Kneeling Startf7C+ *6
153The Press - Low Right Startf8A **2
154The Press - Low Left Startf8A+ **1
155A Bigger SplashV7 *86
156A Bigger Splash Directf7B *119
157Bigger Splash Direct - Kneeling Startf7C **11
158Bigger Splash Direct - Low Right Startf7C **4
159A Bigger Prizef7A 167
160Tsunamif8A **15
161Tsunamishf7C+ *2
162Dancing Fishf8A **4
163Dancing Fish Standingf7B ***11
 Rubicon - Right 
165Water Baliff
-
HVS 4c 3
166Freewheeler
-
HVS 4c  
167Professor Kirk
-
E5 6b  
168Maureen
-
E4 6a  
169Point of no return6c 2
170Last But Not Least7a *33
171Sperm Worm
-
E5 6a  
172Dumb Animal
-
E5 6a  
173The Pinch Test7c+ *2
174The AnglerE6 6c *1
175The Wimp7c *4
176The Sissy8a *33
177Zeke the Freak8b ***27
178The Bastard8c+ ** 
179Truely Awesome7a+ *15
180Rubicon7a ***524
181Zeitgeist7b *50
182No Jug, No ThugE5 6b *1
183Cruising the Seven SeasE6 6b * 
184The Bomb is Coming7a *10
185Toenail PieE2 5b 17
186Warm-up Traversef5 **189
187High Traversef5+ 136
188Middle Traversef6A+ *151
189Low traversef6B+ *85
190Toenail Leftf6A+ *101
191Toenail Pie Start
-
f5 *179
192Debris
-
E4 5c 4
193Debris Groovef6A 83
194The Debris Dynof6C **27
195Crimps and Pocketsf6B 86
196Peg's Pathf6B 90
197Sharp Pocketsf5+ 105
198Small But Perfectly Formed7a+ 17
199Skippy the Bush Kangaroo Weird
-
E3 6c 3
200Approach Traversef7A 20
 Moat Buttress 
202Nude Moatorcycle Girl7a 4
203Out of the Shadows7b *2
204Another Moatside Attraction7a+ *4
205Moat Madness
-
E5 6b *1
206Sheer PowerE5 6b  
207SheerwaterE1 5b *3
208The Lady of the Lake
-
E5 6b *4
209D.T.'s Route
-
E5 6b  
210Drawbridge Down When the Levee BreaksE6 6c  
211ExcaliburE6 6b **1
212No Mud, No Thud7b+ 5
213A Bigger Thud7c *4
214A Bigger Splat7a *13
215Let the Tripe Increase7c **24
216All Hands to the Pump7c+  
217Moatorhead7b+ **23
218Coming up for Air7c * 
219Moat People7b+ **83
220Afloat in the Moat6c+ *101
221Piranha WallE4 3
222TritonE4 5c 6
223Jaws llE5 6b  
224The Flying DutchmanE6 6c * 
225Two Sheep to Leicester7a+ *7
226Searching for the Yeti7b *2
227Moat WallE5 1
228Moat Race6c+ 3
229Moat PuddingsE5 2
230Castle Puddings6b+ 4
 Moat/Majorca Bouldering 
232Pinch Punch (Left Hand)f6C 1
233Pinch Punchf7A 1
234Tiger Stylef7A 1
235Uptown Top Rankingf7B 1
 Majorca Crunch Buttress 
237You Got No Reason7a  
238Rhyme Crime7a+ 1
239Who got Rhyme6c 4
240Rhyme and Reason6c *6
241Reserve Judgement7a 9
242Happy Days6c+ *4
243Oh Dear!6c+ *12
244Four Men Tour6c *25
245Val de Mossa6c+ 8
246Blanca Expression7a *4
247The Majorca Alternative7a+ *22
248Costa del Jolly7a *13
249Wish you were here6b 19
250Do I?6b+ 10
251Mission Impossible8a+ * 
252Karma Killer8b **3
253Agent Provocateur8a+ **6
254Secret Agent8a+ *1
255perfecto7c+ 1
256Trainer Tamer7b+ 2
257Breakbeat8a * 
258One on One7a+ 1
259Under Western EyesE5 6b  
 The Cornice 
261Alpha Groove
-
VD  
262Sting in the Tail
-
E4 6a  
263Puffy White Flesh
-
E2 6a  
264Crystalline
-
S 1
265The Gully 1933
-
S 4b 2
266Bandwagon on Direction
-
E5 6a  
267The Bulge 1984E5 6b 1
268The Thatcher Years
-
E5 6b 13
269Nothing to Help the PoorE5 6b 1
270The Workhouse7a+ 2
271Poorlaw
-
6c+  
272A Major Moment
-
6c+ 9
273Supplementary Benefit
-
7a+ 5
274Incapacity Benefit7a+ **104
275The Dole 19897c *9
276Yorkshire 8b8a *4
277Ape Index8b+ * 
278The Weakling7c+ **4
279Brachiation Dance7b+ ***188
280The Free Monster8a ***52
281The Auctioneer8a+ ***9
282Rumble in the Jungle8a+ ***12
283Monsterosity8b ***6
284Albatrossity8a+ ***7
285Superfly8a+ **1
286Eclipsed8a+ **1
287The Disillusioned Glue Machine8a **7
288Empire Burlesque7c+ *4
289The Nasty Man7c *2
290Goldcrest8a *1
291Sirius7c+ *2
292Atilla the Hun7a+ 5
293Catch the Rainbow6c 17
294Superocity8a+ **1
295Barbarossity8a+ **1
296Belladona
-
7b 3
297Releasable Abseil1 *1
 Two Tier Buttress 
299Tierfull
-
6b 1
300My Tiers led up to This
-
6b *1
301Tiery Henry
-
6b *1
302Under-Tiered
-
6c *1
 Witchcraft Wall 
304Spellbound
-
HVS 5c  
305Witchcraft Wall
-
E3 6b  
306Belladonna
-
7b *1
307Black Sabbath
-
HVS 5b  
308Vicar's Vertigo
-
E1 5b 6
309Sermon Wall
-
VS 1
310Confusion
-
E3 6b 1
311Ribcrusher Crack
-
VS 5a 1
 Central Buttress 
313Ringing Chimney
-
D 2
314Tiddle-de-Dum6c 2
315Te DeumE3 5b  
316Hammy Hamster's Last RitesE2 5c *3
317Chiming CrackE4 6a *4
318Dangerous LiaisonsE5 6b *1
319Carillon CrackE3 5c *3
320Silent StormE5 6a *1
321Carol's CrackE3 5c *5
322Hemmingway's HorrorE2 5c *7
323The Importance of Being ErnestE4 6a  
324The BellringerE2 5c 7
325It Tolls for Thee6c+ *4
326Vapour Stream7a+ *6
327La Belle AgeE6 6b *1
328En Masse DescendreE6 6b * 
329In BulkE6 6b **1
330LeviathanE5 6b *1
331St. Paul
-
E3 5c *27
332St Paul Direct StartE3 6a *4
333Paulliac7c **2
334BehemothE5 6b ***23
335That'll Do NicelyE5 6b 3
336Yankee Dollar
-
E5 6b 1
337The Treadmill7b *8
338Fort KnoxE5 6a 2
339Fort Knox Direct7b *1
340The TrollE3 6a 6
341Crumbling CracksHVS 4b 4
342Squatter's RightsHVS 4c  
343My Fickle Resolve6c+ *3
344Une Jour Parfait7b *1
345WarheadE3 6a 2
346Fire on Water7b+ **5
347The AlienE4 6b ***30
348AliensE6 6c * 
349White Fright
-
E6 6b * 
350Knuckle KnockerE3 5c *13
351WarE5 6a 4
352Freedom is Insane7a *14
353Hairy LegsE3 6a 4
354AftervisionE2 5c 2
355Deja Vu6c *5
356HeatwaveHVS 5a  
357No Chains on Me6c+ *7
358The Chain Gang6c+ *5
359The Chain Gang (Trad)6c+ *1
360Escape Artist7a+ *2
361Cool Hand LukeE5 6b 1
362DisparagementE5 6a 2
363Time WarpE4 6b  
364Fatal Attraction7b **10
365Fatal Hesitation7b+ *1
366SoxE5 6a *2
367La Brute7a *6
368La ChuteE5 6b **5
369La RouteE4 6a *4
370Coldity GrooveE3 5c 3
371Coldity CrackE1 5b 7
372C'est Plastique6c 11
373Plastic WonderVS 4c  
374Plastic BlinkersHVS 5b  
375GwendolineHVS 5a 2
376Orient routeD  
377Dis-orientated6b+ 3
378Scoopy Little NumberE2 5b *1
379Fools Rush In
-
E1 5c 3
 Mill Buttress 
381Tip Toe WallHVS 5a 2
382Yukon GrooveVD * 
383Peg's Path Right *f6B 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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