Climbs 372
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 205m a.s.l
Faces S

Rubicon wall © Ryan83

Crag features

The River Wye continues south and west from Chee Dale, past Miller’s Dale, into Water-cum-Jolly. In many ways this is Chee Dale's neglected little sister, the routes and buttresses are shorter and often the rock is of a lesser quality. On the plus side, a good track runs through the valley, it has a pleasant open aspect and quite a number of the cliffs catch the sun, with another set offering shady retreat in hot weather. Many of the routes in Water-cum-Jolly have been neglected in recent years. Those which rely on fixed gear are slowly being rebolted but others should be regarded now as unclimbable. This is especially true on Lammergeyer Buttress, and some of Moat and Central Buttresses - these routes have been included in this book since they may be rebolted in the future. Apart from the ever-popular Rubicon Wall, and the Cornice when it is in condition, you are very likely to have most of the routes here to yourself.

Access in WCJ is very sensitive so please follow the described approaches and notes included with each buttress introduction very carefully. The rights to the north riverbank in WCJ is owned by an angling club. They are willing to allow climbers and walkers access to the dale but please do nothing to disturb their fishing activities. The section including Jackdaw Point, Upper Circle and Ping Pong Area is a wildlife reserve owned and managed by Derbyshire Wildlife Trust. They are willing to allow climbing on these three buttresses but only within strict limits and providing climbers use the described approaches only. There should be no new routes and no gardening of any kind on these buttresses. The other sections, including the south bank, are owned by various land owners. Access to these buttresses isn't a problem but climbers should make as little disturbance as possible since the whole dale is important for wildlife of all kinds. Apart from lower-offs, no extra gear should be left on the routes, this includes fixed slings and krabs.

Approach notes

Litton Mill Approach - From the B6049 Tideswell to Miller's Dale road, take the sharp turn towards Litton Mill and past the Angler's Rest pub. Park at the small parking spot about 200m past Raven Tor and just before the signs dissuading you from continuing to the village. Follow the road on foot and continue past the old mill (now apartments) onto the valley bottom path.
Cressbrook Approach - Descend into Monsal Dale and follow the valley bottom road all the way to Cressbrook. Park here on the roadside opposite the new flats development in the old mill. A well-marked path leads up into the dale proper. As Rubicon Wall comes into view there is a bridge on the left which leads to the south bank and the Cornice.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
The sport route near Thatcher Years is in fact called "Incapacity Benift". A few people need to edit their logs!
kristian - 01/Oct/08
Need to add The Auctioneer 8a+ kieth Sharples July 2001. Left of Rumble. Eclipsed 8b Steve fearn Aug 99 L of glue machine. Ape Index Steve mclure Aug 2000 8b+ R of Yorkshire 8b. Gold Cresr hard 7C+ Right of Glue Machine Also best routes on Crag are Albatrocity (best 8a+ in Peak) Auctioneer, Brachiation, Freemonster and Monsterocity.
Simon Reed - 24/Oct/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Vision Buttress 
2Sunshine Super Frog
-
E6 6c 1
3The Vision
-
E6 6c **2
4Knocked Out Loaded
-
E6 6c **1
5Agrippa's Knees
-
E6 6b  
 Jackdaw Point 
7Ground ControlE1 5b 2
8Skyline Pigeon
-
E5 6b  
9Armed With an Empty GunE4 6a *2
10ErithacusE2 5b *31
11Army DreamersE2 5c *27
12Final SacrificeE1 5b 1
13Fledgling FlakesHVS 5b *19
14Burning Up TimeE3 6a *15
15Nervous and ShakyE4 6a  
16FledglingVS 4c 11
17Trial Run
-
VS 4c 2
18First FlightHVS 5a 5
19PalmoliveE1 5c *20
20Endless FlightE2 5c *19
21Fear of FlyingE2 5b *26
22Flight PathVS 4b 3
23Victory Roll
-
VS 4c 2
 Upper Circle 
25Hesitation Dance
-
E5 6a  
26SpecialistE4 6c  
27Pragma8a+ * 
28Eat the Rich7c *15
29Three Spheres8b **2
30The Inch Test8a+ **5
31Psychic EmulatorE3 6b  
32Splinter in the Mind's EyeE2 6b 1
33Sweet WilliamE2 5c *5
34Western SamoaE4 6b 1
35Dead Tree GrooveE2 5c *18
36Palace of TyrannyE1 5b  
37Trench WarfareE2 5b  
38Sweet FAE1 5b 1
39Dead Tree CrackE1 5b *10
40Reptar on Ice
-
E1 5b  
41Christmas Cracks
-
VS 4c 9
42Euroman
-
HVS 5a 5
43Looking Good
-
E4 6a  
44Nidhšgg Loves Jormungand
-
E3 6a  
45CicatrixHVS 5a 2
46Going Bush
-
E5 6c  
 Ping Pong Area 
48Jungle Jim
-
E2 5b 1
49Tree Dweller's Crack
-
E3 6a  
50DeceptionE4 6a **19
51Rio VerdeE4 6b *4
52Confidence Trick7b+  
53Matto Grosso Chimney
-
VS 4c 1
54MandrakeE5 6a **7
55Chistiliano Wall
-
E4 6b  
56Marsh Dweller's Rib
-
E3 6a  
57The PongerVS 4b 1
58PingHVS 5b **79
59Ping PongE1 5b **66
60Desmond DouglasE2 5c *11
61Pong
-
E1 5b 4
62The Creative Urge
-
HVS 5b  
63Virgin's Crack
-
VS 4b 12
64Sour GrapesE1 6a 2
 Psyche's Buttress 
66The ArrowS 1
67Summons
-
E4 5c  
68Nappy Squad
-
E5 6b  
69Dreams of Leaving
-
E2 5c  
70Love is the Drug
-
6c+ 2
71The Still Small Voice
-
E3 5c **3
72Strip Search
-
E2 5c  
73Bow String Groove
-
VS 4
74Early One Morning
-
E2 5b,5c 1
75The Keep
-
S 4
76The Fairy
-
D 1
 Lammergeyer Buttress 
78Zob
-
E2 6a  
79Part-time Hobby
-
E2 5b  
80Aquarian Warriors
-
E5 6b  
81The Lammergeyer TwinsE5 6b 1
82As Summers Die7a+ 2
83One Way ReflectionE5 6b * 
84Pinch an Inch7b+ *1
85Final Apocalypse7a+ *4
86The Myth of Masculinity7a+ 1
87Mr. Puniverse7a+ 2
88The Ego has Landed7b+ 2
89The Amnicolist Spies on the Black SubmarineE5 6b 1
90Living with a Porcupine7a 5
91Once upon a Time7a+ 1
92Tree Surgeon7b 1
93The Fall7c+ * 
94Vindicator7c 5
95SkyFall7c+ *1
 Rubicon - Left 
97Alimoany7b+ 5
98The Honeymoon Is Over7c 3
99Decree Nici7b+ 7
100Second honeymoon7a+ 3
101Honeymoon BluesE5 6b *8
102Salar8a *23
103Slapin7c *10
104Slapdasher7a *23
105LapinE3 5c 6
106Welsh Rarebit6b+ *45
107Blue Eyed Myxamatoid
-
E3 5c  
108The Brer Faced Cheek of It
-
6a 2
109HareE3 5c 1
110Changing FortunesE4 6b 1
111Chairs MissingE4 6b *7
112A Tall StoryE5 6c *1
113DragonflightE3 5c **63
114The Dragon Flight TraverseV3 *45
115JezebelE5 6a **8
116KingfisherE5 6c *3
117JawsE5 6b *6
118Plectrum Maxilla DirectE7 6c * 
119Barracuda8b *1
120Caviar8a+ ***16
121Caviar Start
-
f7B *6
122Beluga8a+ *4
123Eugenics8b+  
124Let the Tribe Increase8a *11
125Dangerous Tribes8a *2
126The Dangerous Brothers8a **18
127Too Old to be Bold7c *66
128CootE4 6a 7
129PiranhaE6 6b ***9
130Piranha Startf7A *31
131Piranha Traverse
-
f7A *6
132CoraE6 6c *2
133White BaitE5 6c **5
134White Bait (start)f6C 16
135Flake Out Shake OutE4 6c  
 Kudos Wall 
137A Miller's TaleE5 6b **9
138A Miller's Tale Startf6B+ *313
139Kudosf7B *131
140Kudos Originalf7C *13
141Kudos - the Hard Wayf7B *24
142Kudos Hard Way Sit Startf7B+ 4
143Kudos Sit Startf7B+ *12
144Kudos Original Sit Startf7C+ 3
145Kudos traverse
-
f7B **44
146The Pinchf7C *2
147Hot Fun Closing8a **49
148A Bigger Tail7b+ **155
149Johnny Gf7C 7
150An Even Bigger Tail7b+ *43
151A Bigger Tail Stand Startf7C *1
152A Bigger Bellyf8B * 
153The PressV9 **57
154The Press - Kneeling Startf7C+ *6
155The Press - Low Right Startf8A **2
156The Press - Low Left Startf8A+ **1
157A Bigger SplashV7 *86
158A Bigger Splash Directf7B *121
159Bigger Splash Direct - Kneeling Startf7C **13
160Bigger Splash Direct - Low Right Startf7C **4
161A Bigger Prizef7A 175
162Tsunamif8A **16
163Tsunamishf7C+ *2
164Dancing Fishf8A **4
165Dancing Fish Standingf7B ***10
 Rubicon - Right 
167Water Baliff
-
HVS 4c 3
168Freewheeler
-
HVS 4c  
169The Terror of the Seven Seas7c 1
170Professor Kirk
-
E5 6b  
171Maureen
-
E4 6a  
172Point of no return6c 4
173Last But Not Least7a *35
174Trunk of Punk7a 2
175Sperm Worm
-
E5 6a  
176Dumb Animal
-
E5 6a  
177The Pinch Test7c+ *2
178The AnglerE6 6c *1
179The Wimp7c *10
180The Sissy8a *39
181Zeke the Freak8b ***14
182The Bastard8c+ ** 
183Truely Awesome7a+ *15
184Rubicon7a ***539
185Zeitgeist7b *55
186No Jug, No ThugE5 6b *1
187Cruising the Seven SeasE6 6b * 
188The Bomb is Coming7a *10
189Toenail PieE2 5b 17
190Warm-up Traversef5 **199
191High Traversef5+ 141
192Middle Traversef6A+ *155
193Low traversef6B+ *86
194Toenail Leftf6A+ *102
195Toenail Pie Start
-
f5 *185
196Debris
-
E4 5c 4
197Debris Groovef6A 84
198The Debris Dynof6C **28
199Crimps and Pocketsf6B 93
200Peg's Pathf6B 95
201Sharp Pocketsf5+ 111
202Small But Perfectly Formed7a+ 18
203Skippy the Bush Kangaroo Weird
-
E3 6c 3
204Approach Traversef7A 19
 Moat Buttress 
206Nude Moatorcycle Girl7a 4
207Out of the Shadows7b *3
208Another Moatside Attraction7a+ *5
209Moat Madness
-
E5 6b *1
210Sheer PowerE5 6b  
211SheerwaterE1 5b *4
212The Lady of the Lake
-
E5 6b *5
213D.T.'s Route
-
E5 6b  
214Drawbridge Down When the Levee BreaksE6 6c  
215ExcaliburE6 6b **2
216No Mud, No Thud7b+ 5
217A Bigger Thud7c *4
218A Bigger Splat7a *14
219Let the Tripe Increase7c **24
220All Hands to the Pump7c+  
221Moatorhead7b+ **27
222Coming up for Air7c * 
223Moat People7b+ **89
224Afloat in the Moat6c+ *107
225Piranha WallE4 3
226TritonE4 5c 6
227Jaws llE5 6b  
228The Flying DutchmanE6 6c * 
229Two Sheep to Leicester7a+ *8
230Searching for the Yeti7b *3
231Moat WallE5 1
232Moat Race6c+ 3
233Moat PuddingsE5 2
234Castle Puddings6b+ 5
 Moat/Majorca Bouldering 
236Pinch Punch (Left Hand)f6C 1
237Pinch Punchf7A 1
238Tiger Stylef7A 1
239Uptown Top Rankingf7B 1
 Majorca Crunch Buttress 
241You Got No Reason7a  
242Rhyme Crime7a+ 1
243Who got Rhyme6c 4
244Rhyme and Reason6c *7
245Reserve Judgement7a 10
246Happy Days6c+ *5
247Oh Dear!6c+ *13
248Four Men Tour6c *26
249Val de Mossa6c+ 8
250Blanca Expression7a *4
251The Majorca Alternative7a+ *23
252Costa del Jolly7a *14
253Wish you were here6b 19
254Do I?6b+ 10
255Mission Impossible8a+ * 
256Karma Killer8b **3
257Agent Provocateur8a+ **6
258Secret Agent8a+ *1
259perfecto7c+ 1
260Trainer Tamer7b+ 2
261Breakbeat8a * 
262One on One7a+ 1
263Under Western EyesE5 6b  
 The Cornice 
265Alpha Groove
-
VD  
266Sting in the Tail
-
E4 6a  
267Puffy White Flesh
-
E2 6a  
268Crystalline
-
S 1
269The Gully 1933
-
S 4b 2
270Bandwagon on Direction
-
E5 6a  
271The Bulge 1984E5 6b 1
272The Thatcher Years
-
E5 6b 14
273Nothing to Help the PoorE5 6b 1
274The Workhouse7a+ 2
275Poorlaw
-
6c+  
276A Major Moment
-
6c+ 9
277Supplementary Benefit
-
7a+ 5
278Incapacity Benefit7a+ **104
279The Dole 19897c *9
280Yorkshire 8b8a *4
281Ape Index8b+ * 
282The Weakling7c+ **4
283Brachiation Dance7b+ ***159
284The Free Monster8a ***53
285The Auctioneer8a+ ***9
286Rumble in the Jungle8a+ ***12
287Monsterosity8b ***6
288Albatrossity8a+ ***7
289Superfly8a+ **1
290Eclipsed8a+ **1
291The Disillusioned Glue Machine8a **7
292Empire Burlesque7c+ *4
293The Nasty Man7c *2
294Goldcrest8a *1
295Sirius7c+ *2
296Atilla the Hun7a+ 5
297Catch the Rainbow6c 17
298Superocity8a+ **1
299Barbarossity8a+ **1
300Belladona
-
7b 3
301Releasable Abseil1 *1
 Two Tier Buttress 
303Tierfull
-
6b 1
304My Tiers led up to This
-
6b *1
305Tiery Henry
-
6b *1
306Under-Tiered
-
6c *1
 Witchcraft Wall 
308Spellbound
-
HVS 5c  
309Witchcraft Wall
-
E3 6b  
310Belladonna
-
7b *1
311Black Sabbath
-
HVS 5b  
312Vicar's Vertigo
-
E1 5b 6
313Sermon Wall
-
VS 1
314Confusion
-
E3 6b 1
315Ribcrusher Crack
-
VS 5a 1
 Central Buttress 
317Ringing Chimney
-
D 2
318Tiddle-de-Dum6c 2
319Te DeumE3 5b  
320Hammy Hamster's Last RitesE2 5c *3
321Chiming CrackE4 6a *4
322Dangerous LiaisonsE5 6b *1
323Carillon CrackE3 5c *3
324Silent StormE5 6a *1
325Carol's CrackE3 5c *5
326Hemmingway's HorrorE2 5c *8
327The Importance of Being ErnestE4 6a  
328The BellringerE2 5c 7
329It Tolls for Thee6c+ *5
330Vapour Stream7a+ *6
331La Belle AgeE6 6b *1
332En Masse DescendreE6 6b * 
333In BulkE6 6b **1
334LeviathanE5 6b *1
335St. Paul
-
E3 5c *27
336St Paul Direct StartE3 6a *4
337Paulliac7c **2
338BehemothE5 6b ***23
339That'll Do NicelyE5 6b 3
340Yankee Dollar
-
E5 6b 1
341The Treadmill7b *8
342Fort KnoxE5 6a 2
343Fort Knox Direct7b *1
344The TrollE3 6a 6
345Crumbling CracksHVS 4b 4
346Squatter's RightsHVS 4c  
347My Fickle Resolve6c+ *3
348Une Jour Parfait7b *1
349WarheadE3 6a 2
350Fire on Water7b+ **5
351The AlienE4 6b ***30
352AliensE6 6c * 
353White Fright
-
E6 6b * 
354Knuckle KnockerE3 5c *13
355WarE5 6a 4
356Freedom is Insane7a *15
357Hairy LegsE3 6a 4
358AftervisionE2 5c 2
359Deja Vu6c *6
360HeatwaveHVS 5a  
361No Chains on Me6c+ *7
362The Chain Gang6c+ *5
363The Chain Gang (Trad)6c+ *1
364Escape Artist7a+ *2
365Cool Hand LukeE5 6b 2
366DisparagementE5 6a 2
367Time WarpE4 6b  
368Fatal Attraction7b **10
369Fatal Hesitation7b+ *1
370SoxE5 6a *2
371La Brute7a *7
372La ChuteE5 6b **5
373La RouteE4 6a *4
374Coldity GrooveE3 5c 3
375Coldity CrackE1 5b 7
376C'est Plastique6c 12
377Plastic WonderVS 4c  
378Plastic BlinkersHVS 5b  
379GwendolineHVS 5a 2
380Orient routeD  
381Dis-orientated6b+ 3
382Scoopy Little NumberE2 5b *1
383Fools Rush In
-
E1 5c 3
 Mill Buttress 
385Tip Toe WallHVS 5a 2
386Yukon GrooveVD * 
387Peg's Path Right *f6B 2
388Unnamed *E3 5c *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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