Climbs 364
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 205m a.s.l
Faces S

Rubicon wall © Ryan83

Crag features

The River Wye continues south and west from Chee Dale, past Miller’s Dale, into Water-cum-Jolly. In many ways this is Chee Dale's neglected little sister, the routes and buttresses are shorter and often the rock is of a lesser quality. On the plus side, a good track runs through the valley, it has a pleasant open aspect and quite a number of the cliffs catch the sun, with another set offering shady retreat in hot weather. Many of the routes in Water-cum-Jolly have been neglected in recent years. Those which rely on fixed gear are slowly being rebolted but others should be regarded now as unclimbable. This is especially true on Lammergeyer Buttress, and some of Moat and Central Buttresses - these routes have been included in this book since they may be rebolted in the future. Apart from the ever-popular Rubicon Wall, and the Cornice when it is in condition, you are very likely to have most of the routes here to yourself.

Access in WCJ is very sensitive so please follow the described approaches and notes included with each buttress introduction very carefully. The rights to the north riverbank in WCJ is owned by an angling club. They are willing to allow climbers and walkers access to the dale but please do nothing to disturb their fishing activities. The section including Jackdaw Point, Upper Circle and Ping Pong Area is a wildlife reserve owned and managed by Derbyshire Wildlife Trust. They are willing to allow climbing on these three buttresses but only within strict limits and providing climbers use the described approaches only. There should be no new routes and no gardening of any kind on these buttresses. The other sections, including the south bank, are owned by various land owners. Access to these buttresses isn't a problem but climbers should make as little disturbance as possible since the whole dale is important for wildlife of all kinds. Apart from lower-offs, no extra gear should be left on the routes, this includes fixed slings and krabs.

Approach notes

Litton Mill Approach - From the B6049 Tideswell to Miller's Dale road, take the sharp turn towards Litton Mill and past the Angler's Rest pub. Park at the small parking spot about 200m past Raven Tor and just before the signs dissuading you from continuing to the village. Follow the road on foot and continue past the old mill (now apartments) onto the valley bottom path.
Cressbrook Approach - Descend into Monsal Dale and follow the valley bottom road all the way to Cressbrook. Park here on the roadside opposite the new flats development in the old mill. A well-marked path leads up into the dale proper. As Rubicon Wall comes into view there is a bridge on the left which leads to the south bank and the Cornice.

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Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
The sport route near Thatcher Years is in fact called "Incapacity Benift". A few people need to edit their logs!
kristian - 01/Oct/08
Need to add The Auctioneer 8a+ kieth Sharples July 2001. Left of Rumble. Eclipsed 8b Steve fearn Aug 99 L of glue machine. Ape Index Steve mclure Aug 2000 8b+ R of Yorkshire 8b. Gold Cresr hard 7C+ Right of Glue Machine Also best routes on Crag are Albatrocity (best 8a+ in Peak) Auctioneer, Brachiation, Freemonster and Monsterocity.
Simon Reed - 24/Oct/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Vision Buttress 
2Sunshine Super Frog
E6 6c 1
3The Vision
E6 6c **2
4Knocked Out Loaded
E6 6c **1
5Agrippa's Knees
E6 6b  
 Jackdaw Point 
7Ground ControlE1 5b 2
8Skyline Pigeon
E5 6b  
9Armed With an Empty GunE4 6a *2
10ErithacusE2 5b *31
11Army DreamersE2 5c *27
12Fledgling FlakesHVS 5b *19
13Burning Up TimeE3 6a *14
14Nervous and ShakyE4 6a  
15FledglingVS 4c 11
16Trial Run
VS 4c 2
17First FlightHVS 5a 5
18PalmoliveE1 5c *19
19Endless FlightE2 5c *17
20Fear of FlyingE2 5b *25
21Flight PathVS 4b 3
22Victory Roll
VS 4c 2
 Upper Circle 
24Hesitation Dance
E5 6a  
25SpecialistE4 6c  
26Pragma8a+ * 
27Eat the Rich7c *12
28Three Spheres8b **2
29The Inch Test8a+ **5
30Psychic EmulatorE3 6b  
31Splinter in the Mind's EyeE2 6b 1
32Sweet WilliamE2 5c *5
33Western SamoaE4 6b  
34Dead Tree GrooveE2 5c *15
35Palace of TyrannyE1 5b  
36Trench WarfareE2 5b  
37Sweet FAE1 5b 1
38Dead Tree CrackE1 5b *9
39Reptar on Ice
E1 5b  
40Christmas Cracks
VS 4c 8
HVS 5a 5
42Looking Good
E4 6a  
43Nidhšgg Loves Jormungand
E3 6a  
44CicatrixHVS 5a 2
45Going Bush
E5 6c  
 Ping Pong Area 
47Jungle Jim
E2 5b 1
48Tree Dweller's Crack
E3 6a  
49DeceptionE4 6a **18
50Rio VerdeE4 6b *4
51Confidence Trick7b+  
52Matto Grosso Chimney
VS 4c 1
53MandrakeE5 6a **7
54Chistiliano Wall
E4 6b  
55Marsh Dweller's Rib
E3 6a  
56The PongerVS 4b 1
57PingHVS 5b **77
58Ping PongE1 5b **65
59Desmond DouglasE2 5c *11
E1 5b 4
61The Creative Urge
HVS 5b  
62Virgin's Crack
VS 4b 12
63Sour GrapesE1 6a 1
 Psyche's Buttress 
65The ArrowS 1
E4 5c  
67Nappy Squad
E5 6b  
68Dreams of Leaving
E2 5c  
69Love is the Drug
6c+ 1
70The Still Small Voice
E3 5c **2
71Strip Search
E2 5c  
72Bow String Groove
VS 4
73The Keep
S 4
74The Fairy
D 1
 Lammergeyer Buttress 
E2 6a  
77Part-time Hobby
E2 5b  
78Aquarian Warriors
E5 6b  
79The Lammergeyer TwinsE5 6b 1
80As Summers Die7a+ 2
81One Way ReflectionE5 6b * 
82Final ApocalypseE5 6b  
83The Myth of Masculinity7a+ 1
84Mr. Puniverse7a+ 2
85The Ego has Landed7b+ 2
86The Amnicolist Spies on the Black SubmarineE5 6b 1
87Living with a Porcupine7a 5
88Once upon a Time7a+ 1
89Tree Surgeon7b 1
90The Fall7c+ * 
91Vindicator7c 5
92SkyFall7c+ *1
 Rubicon - Left 
94Alimoany7b+ 3
95The Honeymoon Is Over7c 1
96Decree Nici7b+  
97Honeymoon BluesE5 6b *8
98Salar8a *17
99Slapin7c *7
100Slapdasher7a *22
101LapinE3 5c 5
102Welsh Rarebit6b+ *44
103Blue Eyed Myxamatoid
E3 5c  
104The Brer Faced Cheek of It
6a 1
105HareE3 5c 1
106Changing FortunesE4 6b 1
107Chairs MissingE4 6b *7
108A Tall StoryE5 6c *1
109DragonflightE3 5c **62
110The Dragon Flight Traversef6A *44
111JezebelE5 6a **8
112KingfisherE5 6c *2
113JawsE5 6b *6
114Plectrum Maxilla DirectE7 6c * 
115Barracuda8b *1
116Caviar8a+ ***16
117Caviar Start
f7B *7
118Beluga8a+ *4
120Let the Tribe Increase8a *10
121Dangerous Tribes8a *2
122The Dangerous Brothers8a **18
123Too Old to be Bold7c *68
124CootE4 6a 7
125PiranhaE6 6b ***9
126Piranha Startf7A *26
127Piranha Traverse
f7A *6
128CoraE6 6c *2
129White BaitE5 6c **5
130White Bait (start)f6C 16
131Flake Out Shake OutE4 6c  
 Kudos Wall 
133A Miller's TaleE5 6b **9
134A Miller's Tale Startf6B+ *291
135Kudosf7B *126
136Kudos Originalf7C *12
137Kudos - the Hard Wayf7B *24
138Kudos Hard Way Sit Startf7B+ 4
139Kudos Sit Startf7B+ *10
140Kudos Original Sit Startf7C+ 2
141Kudos traverse
f7B **42
142The Pinchf7C *2
143Hot Fun Closing8a **29
144A Bigger Tail7b+ **140
145Johnny Gf7C 4
146An Even Bigger Tail7b+ *39
147A Bigger Tail Stand Startf7C *1
148A Bigger Bellyf8B * 
149The Pressf7C **56
150The Press - Kneeling Startf7C+ *6
151The Press - Low Right Startf8A **2
152The Press - Low Left Startf8A+ **1
153A Bigger Splashf7A+ *80
154A Bigger Splash Directf7B *118
155Bigger Splash Direct - Kneeling Startf7C **11
156Bigger Splash Direct - Low Right Startf7C **4
157A Bigger Prizef7A 165
158Tsunamif8A **15
159Tsunamishf7C+ *7
160Dancing Fishf8A **4
161Dancing Fish Standingf7B ***8
 Rubicon - Right 
163Water Baliff
HVS 4c 3
HVS 4c  
165Professor Kirk
E5 6b  
E4 6a  
167Point of no return6c 2
168Last But Not Least7a *33
169Sperm Worm
E5 6a  
170Dumb Animal
E5 6a  
171The Pinch Test7c+ *2
172The AnglerE6 6c *1
173The Wimp7c *4
174The Sissy8a *33
175Zeke the Freak8b ***13
176The Bastard8c+ ** 
177Truely Awesome7a+ *15
178Rubicon7a ***432
179Zeitgeist7b *50
180No Jug, No ThugE5 6b *1
181Cruising the Seven SeasE6 6b * 
182The Bomb is Coming7a *10
183Toenail PieE2 5b 17
184Warm-up Traversef5 **188
185High Traversef5+ 137
186Middle Traversef6A+ *151
187Low traversef6B+ *85
188Toenail Leftf6A+ *101
189Toenail Pie Start
f5 *178
E4 5c 4
191Debris Groovef6A 82
192The Debris Dynof6C **27
193Crimps and Pocketsf6B 86
194Peg's Pathf6B 91
195Sharp Pocketsf5+ 104
196Small But Perfectly Formed7a+ 17
197Skippy the Bush Kangaroo Weird
E3 6c 3
198Approach Traversef7A 18
 Moat Buttress 
200Nude Moatorcycle Girl7a 3
201Out of the Shadows7b *2
202Another Moatside Attraction7a+ *4
203Moat Madness
E5 6b *1
204Sheer PowerE5 6b  
205SheerwaterE1 5b *3
206The Lady of the Lake
E5 6b *4
207D.T.'s Route
E5 6b  
208Drawbridge Down When the Levee BreaksE6 6c  
209ExcaliburE6 6b **1
210No Mud, No Thud7b+ 5
211A Bigger Thud7c *4
212A Bigger Splat7a *13
213Let the Tripe Increase7c **24
214All Hands to the Pump7c+  
215Moatorhead7b+ **23
216Coming up for Air7c * 
217Moat People7b+ **80
218Afloat in the Moat6c+ *100
219Piranha WallE4 3
220TritonE4 5c 6
221Jaws llE5 6b  
222The Flying DutchmanE6 6c * 
223Two Sheep to Leicester7a+ *7
224Searching for the Yeti7b *2
225Moat WallE5 1
226Moat Race6c+ 3
227Moat PuddingsE5 2
228Castle Puddings6b+ 4
 Moat/Majorca Bouldering 
230Pinch Punch (Left Hand)f6C 1
231Pinch Punchf7A 1
232Tiger Stylef7A 1
233Uptown Top Rankingf7B 1
 Majorca Crunch Buttress 
235You Got No Reason7a  
236Rhyme Crime7a+ 1
237Who got Rhyme6c 4
238Rhyme and Reason6c *6
239Reserve Judgement7a 9
240Happy Days6c+ *3
241Oh Dear!6c+ *12
242Four Men Tour6c *25
243Val de Mossa6c+ 8
244Blanca Expression7a *4
245The Majorca Alternative7a+ *22
246Costa del Jolly7a *13
247Wish you were here6b 19
248Do I?6b+ 10
249Mission Impossible8a+ * 
250Karma Killer8b **3
251Agent Provocateur8a+ **6
252Secret Agent8a+ *1
253perfecto7c+ 1
254Trainer Tamer7b+ 2
255Breakbeat8a * 
256One on One7a+ 1
257Under Western EyesE5 6b  
 The Cornice 
259Alpha Groove
260Sting in the Tail
E4 6a  
261Puffy White Flesh
E2 6a  
S 1
263The Gully 1933
S 4b 2
264Bandwagon on Direction
E5 6a  
265The Bulge 1984E5 6b 1
266The Thatcher Years
E5 6b 13
267Nothing to Help the PoorE5 6b 1
268The Workhouse7a+ 2
270A Major Moment
6c+ 9
271Supplementary Benefit
7a+ 5
272Incapacity Benefit7a+ **104
273The Dole 19897c *9
274Yorkshire 8b8a *4
275Ape Index8b+ * 
276The Weakling7c+ **4
277Brachiation Dance7b+ ***156
278The Free Monster8a ***52
279The Auctioneer8a+ ***9
280Rumble in the Jungle8a+ ***12
281Monsterosity8b ***6
282Albatrossity8a+ ***7
283Superfly8a+ **1
284Eclipsed8a+ **1
285The Disillusioned Glue Machine8a **7
286Empire Burlesque7c+ *4
287The Nasty Man7c *2
288Goldcrest8a *1
289Sirius7c+ *2
290Atilla the Hun7a+ 5
291Catch the Rainbow6c 17
292Superocity8a+ **1
293Barbarossity8a+ **1
7b 3
295Releasable Abseil1 *1
 Two Tier Buttress 
6b 1
298My Tiers led up to This
6b *1
299Tiery Henry
6b *1
6c *1
 Witchcraft Wall 
HVS 5c  
303Witchcraft Wall
E3 6b  
7b *1
305Black Sabbath
HVS 5b  
306Vicar's Vertigo
E1 5b 6
307Sermon Wall
VS 1
E3 6b 1
309Ribcrusher Crack
VS 5a 1
 Central Buttress 
311Ringing Chimney
D 2
312Tiddle-de-Dum6c 2
313Te DeumE3 5b  
314Hammy Hamster's Last RitesE2 5c *3
315Chiming CrackE4 6a *4
316Dangerous LiaisonsE5 6b *1
317Carillon CrackE3 5c *3
318Silent StormE5 6a *1
319Carol's CrackE3 5c *5
320Hemmingway's HorrorE2 5c *7
321The Importance of Being ErnestE4 6a  
322The BellringerE2 5c 7
323It Tolls for Thee6c+ *4
324Vapour Stream7a+ *6
325La Belle AgeE6 6b *1
326En Masse DescendreE6 6b * 
327In BulkE6 6b **1
328LeviathanE5 6b *1
329St. Paul
E3 5c *27
330St Paul Direct StartE3 6a *4
331Paulliac7c **2
332BehemothE5 6b ***23
333That'll Do NicelyE5 6b 3
334Yankee Dollar
E5 6b 1
335The Treadmill7b *8
336Fort KnoxE5 6a 2
337Fort Knox Direct7b *1
338The TrollE3 6a 6
339Crumbling CracksHVS 4b 4
340Squatter's RightsHVS 4c  
341My Fickle Resolve6c+ *3
342Une Jour Parfait7b *1
343WarheadE3 6a 2
344Fire on Water7b+ **5
345The AlienE4 6b ***30
346AliensE6 6c * 
347White Fright
E6 6b * 
348Knuckle KnockerE3 5c *13
349WarE5 6a 4
350Freedom is Insane7a *14
351Hairy LegsE3 6a 4
352AftervisionE2 5c 2
353Deja Vu6c *5
354HeatwaveHVS 5a  
355No Chains on Me6c+ *7
356The Chain Gang6c+ *5
357The Chain Gang (Trad)6c+ *1
358Escape Artist7a+ *2
359Cool Hand LukeE5 6b 1
360DisparagementE5 6a 2
361Time WarpE4 6b  
362Fatal Attraction7b **10
363Fatal Hesitation7b+ *1
364SoxE5 6a *2
365La Brute7a *6
366La ChuteE5 6b **5
367La RouteE4 6a *4
368Coldity GrooveE3 5c 3
369Coldity CrackE1 5b 7
370C'est Plastique6c 11
371Plastic WonderVS 4c  
372Plastic BlinkersHVS 5b  
373GwendolineHVS 5a 2
374Orient routeD  
375Dis-orientated6b+ 3
376Scoopy Little NumberE2 5b *1
377Fools Rush In
E1 5c 3
 Mill Buttress 
379Tip Toe WallHVS 5a 2
380Yukon GrooveVD * 
381Peg's Path Right *f6B 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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