Wildcat Crags (aka Wild Cat)

Climbs 230 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 132m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Classic traditional routes on highly featured butresses up to 50m high. Lots of cracks, grooves, ribs and aretes of good quality rock for the most part (some vegetated finishes). Most routes are VS and above, with a lot in the HVS to E2 range. Classics include Lynx (HS 4b,4a), Cataclysm (VS 4b,5a), Golden Yardstick (VS 4c,5a). Catastrophe Grooves (HVS 4c,5a), Sunset Creek (E1 5b), Grand Cleft (E2 5b) and The Catcuss Furballs Connection (E5 6b).

Access notes
From various parking places in Matlock Bath head south past the Pavillion (Mining Museum), through the gardens and across the metal bridge. The main part of the crag is up and to the right.

Take care on descents and avoid entering the grounds of Willersley Castle when descending from Upper Tor.

To reach the Woodbank Tor area, follow a small path heading right from the main crag. It peters out at the point that the crags on the left disappear into the hillside, and you can see the weir directly below. Descend a wide earthy couloir, steep and loose near the bottom, to emerge at the foot of the crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992), Peak Limestone - South (1987), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 NEW BRIDGE BUTTRESS 
2Criminally Insane7a+ *
3Trick Psychlist7c+ *
4Strait Psychlist7a+ **
5Strait Jacket7a **
6Recoil6b+ *
7Shock Treatment7a
8Lunatic AsylumHVS 5c *
9The Mentalist7a+ *
10Borstal BreakoutVS 4b
 SLIPPERY SLABS 
12Pink PantherVS 4c
13Original RouteS
14Slippery Slabs DirectVS 4c *
15WhiskerVS 4c *
16BobcatVS 4b
17Brew ElevenVD
18ZazaHVS 5a
 PUMA BUTTRESS 
20Puma AreteVS
21Puma DirectHVS 5a *
22Puma CrackVS
23Another TimeE2 5b *
24Tom CatHVS 4c *
25SpectrumVS 4c
 COYOTE BUTTRESS 
27New ExileE1 5b
28Cat CallVS 4c *
29The TraverseE1 5c ***
30Caterpillar's CrawlHVS 5a *
31Puss MothHVS 5a
32Catacomb DirectHVS 5a *
33Catastrophe GroovesHVS 5a **
34White RoomHVS 5a *
35Lyon RouteE1 5b *
36Cat CullE2 5c *
37Coyote ButtressHVS 5a **
38Derek's DilemmaVS 4c *
39Broken Toe GrooveVS 4c *
40Jackdaw GroovesVS 4b **
41Nine Lives WallHVS 5a *
42Catharsis WallHVS 5a
43Cats EyeS 4a
44Budweisser EffectHVS 4c
45McPlumb WallHVS 4c *
46Negative 'G'HVS 5b *
47Cougar CleftHS 4a
48Tiger Route 1VS 4c *
49Tiger Route 2VS 4c
50Wandering TigerVS 5a *
51RipsnorterVS 4b *
52Steel PulseHVS 5a
53SourpussVS 4c *
54PupillaVS 4c *
55Cat WalkHS 4a *
56Still WatersE1 5c
 HIGH CRAG 
58ManxVS 4b *
59Grand PrixE1 5b *
60Golden YardstickVS 5a **
61Golden Yardstick DirectE1 5c *
62LoboVS 4b *
63Tut's AnomalousE1 5b **
64The Catcuss Furballs ConnectionE5 6b **
65Clash of ArmsE5 6b *
66Stolen JewelE5 6b
67Great CleftE1 5c **
68LynxHS 4b **
69SphynxVS 5a **
70ClimactericVS 5a *
71OctopussHVS 5a
72CataclysmHVS 5a ***
73MetamorphosisHVS *
74Timing XE1 5b *
75End GameHVS 5a *
 UNSORTED 
77Liberty CapE2 5c **
78Great CrackE2 5c **
79Sunset CreekE1 5b **
80Go Go GroovesHVS 5a **
81Puma PassageVS 4b *
82Tiger ChimneyVD
83CatacombVS 4c
84Manky MeanderVS 4b
85Felix AreteHS 4a
86Bird Lime CornerMS *
87The FerreterHS 4a *
88Cracker JackHVD ***
89Long RouteHS 4a
90Wedge ButtressS *
91MackeringVS 4c *
92Tiger TimVS 4c
93BlurbHVS 5a *
94Kit-E-KatVS
95Coyote CrackVS **
96Green CracksVS
97TerminalE2 5c
98Return of the NativeE4 6a
99Down, Down to Hell and Say I Sent Thee ThitherE2 5c **
100Blue Grass SpecialHVS 5a *
101DropD
102ShoeS 4b
103DodgeS 4c
104AfterVS 5b
105Sooner or LaterHVS 5b *
106Top CatVS 4c
107Schoolboy ScoopVD *
108OverhangMVS 4b *
109Old Joe ClarkD
110Ground HogVD
111Shelter's EndVS 4b
112Roof GrooveVD
113ClangVS 4b
114Fisherman's WallVS 4b
115Puma ChimneyVD
116Chatti ChimneyHS 4a
117FelineHS
118DiagonalS
119End ScoopS
120Leafy laneE1 5b
121Wall End CrackS
122Green SlabVD
123Broken GrooveS
124Split ProwS
125Chocker BlockVD
126Rib WreckerVS 4c
127Curving ChimneyMVS 4a
128High Bank CrackVS 5a
129Deep ChimneyHS 4b
130Split WallMS
131Slab RouteD
132JumperVD
133ZipperS
134Slow FeedbackE1 5b *
135Banjo FlakeE1 5b *
136Ukelele WallVS 4c
137MolybdenumE2 5c
138Reality ClauseE2 5b
139KoalaE1 5b
140Shades of GreyHVS 5a
141Cool CatHVS
142No Pulse *HVS 5a
143Fragile Glass *HVS 5a
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Lukem6

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
What happened to Upper Tor? Liberty Cap etc?
Bulls Crack - 13/Jul/14
crag log book could do with a bit of moderating
Lukem6 - 30/Sep/13
I'd love to head back with a decent guide book. We did a decent multipitch route I reckon about a VS 4c enjoyed it.
00B4YLI5500 - 19/Aug/13
awesome crag, if you want to know more go to http://gachieve.blogspot.com/ for crag review
Lukem6 - 07/Jul/11
Had a great day here, must be one of the best crags in the country for the VS/HVS climber, loads of quality routes at these grades.
The Ivanator - 03/May/11
I have an original.will photocopy if you wish.07717 472518
jonty7 - 27/Jul/10
Probably the noisiest crag I've ever been to, courtesy of a non-stop procession of bikers on the road below!
Simon Caldwell - 20/Apr/09
I'm trying to locate a copy of the original (paperback)guide to the crag. Any suggestions please?
haydn taylor - 22/Aug/06