Wildcat Crags (aka Wild Cat)

Climbs 230 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 132m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Classic traditional routes on highly featured butresses up to 50m high. Lots of cracks, grooves, ribs and aretes of good quality rock for the most part (some vegetated finishes). Most routes are VS and above, with a lot in the HVS to E2 range. Classics include Lynx (HS 4b,4a), Cataclysm (VS 4b,5a), Golden Yardstick (VS 4c,5a). Catastrophe Grooves (HVS 4c,5a), Sunset Creek (E1 5b), Grand Cleft (E2 5b) and The Catcuss Furballs Connection (E5 6b).

Access notes
From various parking places in Matlock Bath head south past the Pavillion (Mining Museum), through the gardens and across the metal bridge. The main part of the crag is up and to the right.

Take care on descents and avoid entering the grounds of Willersley Castle when descending from Upper Tor.

To reach the Woodbank Tor area, follow a small path heading right from the main crag. It peters out at the point that the crags on the left disappear into the hillside, and you can see the weir directly below. Descend a wide earthy couloir, steep and loose near the bottom, to emerge at the foot of the crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992), Peak Limestone - South (1987), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Criminally Insane7a+ *2
3Trick Psychlist7c+ *1
4Strait Psychlist7a+ *5
5Strait Jacket7a **42
6Recoil6b+ **61
7Shock Treatment7a 21
8Lunatic AsylumHVS 5c *13
9The Mentalist7a+ *14
10Borstal BreakoutVS 4b 4
12Pink PantherVS 4c 4
13Original RouteS 16
14Slippery Slabs DirectVS 4c *29
15WhiskerVS 4c *12
16BobcatVS 4b 6
17Brew ElevenVD 9
18ZazaHVS 5a 1
20Puma AreteVS 4
21Puma DirectHVS 5a *14
22Puma CrackVS 5
23Another TimeE2 5b *13
24Tom CatHVS 4c *5
25SpectrumVS 4c 2
27New ExileE1 5b 5
28Cat CallVS 4c *28
29The TraverseE1 5c ***4
30Caterpillar's CrawlHVS 5a *13
31Puss MothHVS 5a 4
32Catacomb DirectHVS 5a *23
33Catastrophe GroovesHVS 5a **188
34White RoomHVS 5a *15
35Lyon RouteE1 5b *60
36Cat CullE2 5c *1
37Coyote ButtressHVS 5a **183
38Derek's DilemmaVS 5a *173
39Broken Toe GrooveVS 4c *284
40Jackdaw GroovesVS 4b **418
41Nine Lives WallHVS 5a *162
42Catharsis WallHVS 5a 38
43Cats EyeS 4a 284
44Budweisser EffectHVS 4c 19
45McPlumb WallHVS 4c *70
46Negative 'G'HVS 5b *4
47Cougar CleftHS 4a 61
48Tiger Route 1VS 4c *73
49Tiger Route 2VS 4c 15
50Wandering TigerVS 5a *2
51RipsnorterVS 4b *21
52Steel PulseHVS 5a 3
53SourpussVS 4c *69
54PupillaVS 4c *157
55Cat WalkHS 4a **249
56Still WatersE1 5c 1
58ManxVS 4b *191
59Grand PrixE1 5b *6
60Golden YardstickVS 5a ***467
61Golden Yardstick DirectE1 5c *3
62LoboVS 4b *153
63Tut's AnomalousE1 5b **85
64The Catcuss Furballs ConnectionE5 6b *3
65Clash of ArmsE4 6b *2
66Stolen JewelE5 6b *1
67Great CleftE2 5c **58
68LynxHS 4b ***432
69SphynxVS 5a **178
70ClimactericVS 5a **129
71OctopussHVS 5a 3
72CataclysmHVS 5a ***306
73MetamorphosisHVS 5b *25
74Timing XE1 5b *16
75End GameHVS 5a *5
77Liberty CapE2 5c **7
78Great CrackE2 5c **20
79Sunset CreekE1 5b **31
80Go Go GroovesHVS 5a **21
81Puma PassageVS 4b *16
82Tiger ChimneyVD 5
83CatacombVS 4c 16
84Manky MeanderVS 4b 6
85Felix AreteHS 4a 7
86Bird Lime CornerMS *4
87The FerreterHS 4a *2
88Cracker JackHVD ***13
89Long RouteHS 4a 7
90Wedge ButtressS *5
91MackeringVS 4c *6
92Tiger TimVS 4c 5
93BlurbHVS 5a *3
94Kit-E-KatVS 3
95Coyote CrackVS **6
96Green CracksVS 2
97TerminalE2 5c 1
98Return of the NativeE4 6a 1
99Down, Down to Hell and Say I Sent Thee ThitherE2 5c **1
100Blue Grass SpecialHVS 5a *4
102ShoeS 4b  
103DodgeS 4c  
104AfterVS 5b  
105Sooner or LaterHVS 5b * 
106Top CatVS 4c 7
107Schoolboy ScoopVD *1
108OverhangMVS 4b *5
109Old Joe ClarkD 1
110Ground HogVD 1
111Shelter's EndVS 4b 1
112Roof GrooveVD 2
113ClangVS 4b 1
114Fisherman's WallVS 4b 1
115Puma ChimneyVD 2
116Chatti ChimneyHS 4a 2
117FelineHS 4
118DiagonalS 2
119End ScoopS 1
120Leafy laneE1 5b 1
121Wall End CrackS 1
122Green SlabVD 2
123Broken GrooveS 1
124Split ProwS 1
125Chocker BlockVD 3
126Rib WreckerVS 4c 1
127Curving ChimneyMVS 4a 1
128High Bank CrackVS 5a 1
129Deep ChimneyHS 4b 2
130Split WallMS 3
131Slab RouteD 2
132JumperVD 1
133ZipperS 1
134Slow FeedbackE1 5b *1
135Banjo FlakeE1 5b *2
136Ukelele WallVS 4c 2
137MolybdenumE2 5c 2
138Reality ClauseE2 5b 2
139KoalaE1 5b 1
140Shades of GreyHVS 5a 3
141Cool CatHVS 1
142No Pulse *HVS 5a 1
143Fragile Glass *HVS 5a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Lukem6

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Please do not scramble down the bank between the A6 and the new bridge to avoid a longer walk. The righthand end of the crags is owned by Wesley (Methodist) Guild Holidays who are concerned about the public wandering around the private grounds near the castle. Please keep disturbance to a minimum - particularly around Upper Tor.
Lukem6 - 14/Apr/15
What happened to Upper Tor? Liberty Cap etc?
Bulls Crack - 13/Jul/14
crag log book could do with a bit of moderating
Lukem6 - 30/Sep/13
I'd love to head back with a decent guide book. We did a decent multipitch route I reckon about a VS 4c enjoyed it.
EDB4YLI55 - 19/Aug/13
awesome crag, if you want to know more go to http://gachieve.blogspot.com/ for crag review
Lukem6 - 07/Jul/11
Had a great day here, must be one of the best crags in the country for the VS/HVS climber, loads of quality routes at these grades.
The Ivanator - 03/May/11
I have an original.will photocopy if you wish.07717 472518
jonty7 - 27/Jul/10
Probably the noisiest crag I've ever been to, courtesy of a non-stop procession of bikers on the road below!
Simon Caldwell - 20/Apr/09
I'm trying to locate a copy of the original (paperback)guide to the crag. Any suggestions please?
haydn taylor - 22/Aug/06