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These details were last updated on 16/Dec/2013

Wildcat Crags (aka Wild Cat)

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 230 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 132m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Classic traditional routes on highly featured butresses up to 50m high. Lots of cracks, grooves, ribs and aretes of good quality rock for the most part (some vegetated finishes). Most routes are VS and above, with a lot in the HVS to E2 range. Classics include Lynx (HS 4b,4a), Cataclysm (VS 4b,5a), Golden Yardstick (VS 4c,5a). Catastrophe Grooves (HVS 4c,5a), Sunset Creek (E1 5b), Grand Cleft (E2 5b) and The Catcuss Furballs Connection (E5 6b).

Access notes
From various parking places in Matlock Bath head south past the Pavillion (Mining Museum), through the gardens and across the metal bridge. The main part of the crag is up and to the right.

Take care on descents and avoid entering the grounds of Willersley Castle when descending from Upper Tor.

To reach the Woodbank Tor area, follow a small path heading right from the main crag. It peters out at the point that the crags on the left disappear into the hillside, and you can see the weir directly below. Descend a wide earthy couloir, steep and loose near the bottom, to emerge at the foot of the crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

2.9mm rain
Sunny periods
16 °C
19 kph

2.0mm rain
15 °C
28 kph

0.4mm rain
Sunny periods
15 °C
20 kph

0.0mm rain
14 °C
15 kph

0.6mm rain
18 °C
15 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992), Peak Limestone - South (1987), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
2Criminally Insane7a+ *2
3Trick Psychlist7c+ *1
4Strait Psychlist7a+ **5
5Strait Jacket7a **40
6Recoil6b+ *59
7Shock Treatment7a 19
8Lunatic AsylumHVS 5c *13
9The Mentalist7a+ *12
11Borstal BreakoutVS 4b 3
12Pink PantherVS 4c 4
13Original RouteS 15
14Slippery Slabs DirectVS 4c *29
15WhiskerVS 4c *12
16BobcatVS 4b 5
17Brew ElevenVD 9
18ZazaHVS 5a 1
19Puma DirectHVS 5a *14
20Puma AreteVS 4
21Puma CrackVS 4
22Another TimeE2 5b *13
23Tom CatHVS 4c *4
24SpectrumVS 4c 2
25New ExileE1 5b 5
26Cat CallVS 4c *27
27The TraverseE1 5c ***3
28Caterpillar's CrawlHVS 5a *13
29Puss MothHVS 5a 3
30Catacomb DirectHVS 5a *23
31Catastrophe GroovesHVS 5a **179
32White RoomHVS 5a *14
33Lyon RouteE1 5b *54
34Cat CullE2 5c *1
35Coyote ButtressHVS 5a **168
36Derek's DilemmaVS 4c *166
37Broken Toe GrooveVS 4c *256
38Jackdaw GroovesVS 4b **384
39Nine Lives WallHVS 5a *153
40Catharsis WallHVS 5a 36
41Cats EyeS 4a 269
42Budweisser EffectHVS 4c 16
43McPlumb WallHVS 4c *65
44Negative 'G'HVS 5b *3
45Cougar CleftHS 4a 54
47Tiger Route 1VS 4c *69
48Tiger Route 2VS 4c 15
49Wandering TigerVS 5a *2
50Cat WalkHS 4a *228
51RipsnorterVS 4b *20
52SourpussVS 4c *68
53Steel PulseHVS 5a 2
54PupillaVS 4c *143
55Still WatersE1 5c 1
56ManxVS 4b *180
57Grand PrixE1 5b *5
58Golden YardstickVS 5a **423
59Golden Yardstick DirectE1 5c *3
60LoboVS 4b *139
61The Catcuss Furballs ConnectionE5 6b **2
62Tut's AnomalousE1 5b **81
63Clash of ArmsE5 6b *1
64Great CleftE1 5c **51
65LynxHS 4b **391
66Stolen JewelE5 6b 1
67SphynxVS 5a **170
68ClimactericVS 5a *116
69OctopussHVS 5a 3
 Climb nameGradex
70CataclysmHVS 5a ***280
71MetamorphosisHVS *25
72Timing XE1 5b *15
73End GameHVS 5a *4
74Liberty CapE2 5c **7
75Great CrackE2 5c **20
76Sunset CreekE1 5b **31
77Go Go GroovesHVS 5a **20
78Puma PassageVS 4b *15
79Tiger ChimneyVD 5
80CatacombVS 4c 14
81Manky MeanderVS 4b 6
82Felix AreteHS 4a 7
83Bird Lime CornerMS *3
84The FerreterHS 4a *1
85Cracker JackHVD ***13
86Long RouteHS 4a 7
87Wedge ButtressS *4
88MackeringVS 4c *6
89Tiger TimVS 4c 5
90BlurbHVS 5a *3
91Kit-E-KatVS 2
92Coyote CrackVS **6
93Green CracksVS 2
94TerminalE2 5c 1
95Return of the NativeE4 6a 1
96Down, Down to Hell and Say I Sent Thee ThitherE2 5c **1
97Blue Grass SpecialHVS 5a *3
99ShoeS 4b  
100DodgeS 4c  
101AfterVS 5b  
102Sooner or LaterHVS 5b * 
103Top CatVS 4c 6
104Schoolboy ScoopVD *1
105OverhangMVS 4b *4
106Old Joe ClarkD 1
107Ground HogVD 1
108Shelter's EndVS 4b 1
109Roof GrooveVD 2
110ClangVS 4b 1
111Fisherman's WallVS 4b 1
112Puma ChimneyVD 2
113Chatti ChimneyHS 4a 2
114FelineHS 3
115DiagonalS 1
116End ScoopS 1
117Leafy laneE1 5b 1
118Wall End CrackS 1
119Green SlabVD 2
120Broken GrooveS 1
121Split ProwS 1
122Chocker BlockVD 3
123Rib WreckerVS 4c 1
124Curving ChimneyMVS 4a 1
125High Bank CrackVS 5a 1
126Deep ChimneyHS 4b 1
127Split WallMS 3
128Slab RouteD 2
129JumperVD 1
130ZipperS 1
131Slow FeedbackE1 5b *1
132Banjo FlakeE1 5b *2
133Ukelele WallVS 4c 1
134MolybdenumE2 5c 2
135Reality ClauseE2 5b 2
136KoalaE1 5b 1
137Shades of GreyHVS 5a 2
138Cool CatHVS 1
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Lukem6

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
What happened to Upper Tor? Liberty Cap etc?
Bulls Crack - 13/Jul/14

crag log book could do with a bit of moderating
Lukem6 - 30/Sep/13

I'd love to head back with a decent guide book. We did a decent multipitch route I reckon about a VS 4c enjoyed it.
00B4YLI5500 - 19/Aug/13

awesome crag, if you want to know more go to for crag review
Lukem6 - 07/Jul/11

Had a great day here, must be one of the best crags in the country for the VS/HVS climber, loads of quality routes at these grades.
The Ivanator - 03/May/11

I have an original.will photocopy if you wish.07717 472518
jonty7 - 27/Jul/10

Probably the noisiest crag I've ever been to, courtesy of a non-stop procession of bikers on the road below!
Simon Caldwell - 20/Apr/09

I'm trying to locate a copy of the original (paperback)guide to the crag. Any suggestions please?
haydn taylor - 22/Aug/06