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These details were last updated on 16/Dec/2013

Wildcat Crags (aka Wild Cat)

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 230 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 132m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Classic traditional routes on highly featured butresses up to 50m high. Lots of cracks, grooves, ribs and aretes of good quality rock for the most part (some vegetated finishes). Most routes are VS and above, with a lot in the HVS to E2 range. Classics include Lynx (HS 4b,4a), Cataclysm (VS 4b,5a), Golden Yardstick (VS 4c,5a). Catastrophe Grooves (HVS 4c,5a), Sunset Creek (E1 5b), Grand Cleft (E2 5b) and The Catcuss Furballs Connection (E5 6b).

Weather forecast

 Today  Tue  Wed  Thu  Fri 

2.8mm rain
Mainly cloudy
11 °C
31 kph

2.4mm rain
Mainly cloudy
12 °C
20 kph

2.8mm rain
11 °C
13 kph

1.6mm rain
Mainly cloudy
12 °C
17 kph

2.0mm rain
13 °C
8 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992), Peak Limestone - South (1987), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
2Criminally Insane7a+ *2
3Trick Psychlist7c+ *1
4Strait Psychlist7a+ **3
5Strait Jacket7a **35
6Recoil6b+ *55
7Shock Treatment7a 17
8Lunatic AsylumHVS 5c *13
9The Mentalist7a+ *11
11Borstal BreakoutVS 4b 3
12Pink PantherVS 4c 4
13Original RouteS 14
14Slippery Slabs DirectVS 4c *25
15WhiskerVS 4c *10
16BobcatVS 4b 5
17Brew ElevenVD 8
18ZazaHVS 5a 1
19Puma DirectHVS 5a *13
20Puma AreteVS 3
21Puma CrackVS 4
22Another TimeE2 5b *13
23Tom CatHVS 4c *4
24SpectrumVS 4c 2
25New ExileE1 5b 5
26Cat CallVS 4c *26
27The TraverseE1 5c ***3
28Caterpillar's CrawlHVS 5a *13
29Puss MothHVS 5a 3
30Catacomb DirectHVS 5a *23
31Catastrophe GroovesHVS 5a **160
32White RoomHVS 5a *11
33Lyon RouteE1 5b *51
34Cat CullE2 5c *1
35Coyote ButtressHVS 5a **149
36Derek's DilemmaVS 4c *149
37Broken Toe GrooveVS 4c *240
38Jackdaw GroovesVS 4b **351
39Nine Lives WallHVS 5a *141
40Catharsis WallHVS 5a 34
41Cats EyeS 4a 242
42Budweisser EffectHVS 4c 16
43McPlumb WallHVS 4c *64
44Negative 'G'HVS 5b *3
45Cougar CleftHS 4a 53
47Tiger Route 1VS 4c *63
48Tiger Route 2VS 4c 14
49RipsnorterVS 4b *20
50Wandering TigerVS 5a *2
51Cat WalkHS 4a *204
52SourpussVS 4c *61
53PupillaVS 4c *128
54Still WatersE1 5c 1
55ManxVS 4b *173
56Grand PrixE1 5b *5
57Golden YardstickVS 5a **383
58Golden Yardstick DirectE1 5c *3
59LoboVS 4b *124
60The Catcuss Furballs ConnectionE5 6b **2
61Tut's AnomalousE1 5b **70
62Clash of ArmsE5 6b *1
63Great CleftE1 5c **41
64LynxHS 4b **360
65Stolen JewelE5 6b 1
66SphynxVS 5a **153
67ClimactericVS 5a *102
68OctopussHVS 5a  
69CataclysmHVS 5a ***257
 Climb nameGradex
70MetamorphosisHVS *24
71Timing XE1 5b *15
72End GameHVS 5a *4
73Liberty CapE2 5c **7
74Great CrackE2 5c **19
75Sunset CreekE1 5b **30
76Go Go GroovesHVS 5a **20
77Puma PassageVS 4b *14
78Tiger ChimneyVD 4
79CatacombVS 4c 14
80Manky MeanderVS 4b 6
81Felix AreteHS 4a 6
82Bird Lime CornerMS *3
83The FerreterHS 4a *1
84Cracker JackHVD ***12
85Long RouteHS 4a 6
86Wedge ButtressS *4
87MackeringVS 4c *5
88Tiger TimVS 4c 5
89BlurbHVS 5a *3
90Kit-E-KatVS 2
91Coyote CrackVS **5
92Green CracksVS 1
93TerminalE2 5c 1
94Return of the NativeE4 6a 1
95Down, Down to Hell and Say I Sent Thee ThitherE2 5c **1
96Blue Grass SpecialHVS 5a *3
98ShoeS 4b  
99DodgeS 4c  
100AfterVS 5b  
101Sooner or LaterHVS 5b * 
102Top CatVS 4c 6
103Schoolboy ScoopVD *1
104OverhangMVS 4b *4
105Old Joe ClarkD 1
106Ground HogVD 1
107Shelter's EndVS 4b 1
108Roof GrooveVD 1
109ClangVS 4b 1
110Fisherman's Wall *VS 4b 1
111Puma ChimneyVD 2
112Chatti Chimney *HS 4a 2
113Feline *HS 3
114Diagonal *S 1
115End Scoop *S 1
116Leafy lane *E1 5b 1
117Wall End Crack *S 1
118Green SlabVD 1
119Broken Groove *S 1
120Split Prow *S 1
121Chocker Block *VD 2
122Rib Wrecker *VS 4c 1
123Curving Chimney *MVS 4a 1
124High Bank Crack *VS 5a 1
125Deep Chimney *HS 4b 1
126Split Wall *MS 2
127Slab Route *D 1
128JumperVD 1
129Zipper *S 1
130Slow FeedbackE1 5b *1
131Banjo Flake *E1 5b *2
132Ukelele Wall *VS 4c 1
133Molybdenum *E2 5c 2
134Reality Clause *E2 5b 2
135Koala *E1 5b 1
136Shades of Grey *HVS 5a 2
137Cool CatHVS 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Access notes
From various parking places in Matlock Bath head south past the Pavillion (Mining Museum), through the gardens and across the metal bridge. The main part of the crag is up and to the right.

Take care on descents and avoid entering the grounds of Willersley Castle when descending from Upper Tor.

To reach the Woodbank Tor area, follow a small path heading right from the main crag. It peters out at the point that the crags on the left disappear into the hillside, and you can see the weir directly below. Descend a wide earthy couloir, steep and loose near the bottom, to emerge at the foot of the crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Lukem6

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
crag log book could do with a bit of moderating
Lukem6 - 30/Sep/13

I'd love to head back with a decent guide book. We did a decent multipitch route I reckon about a VS 4c enjoyed it.
Iskassasya - 19/Aug/13

awesome crag, if you want to know more go to for crag review
Lukem6 - 07/Jul/11

Had a great day here, must be one of the best crags in the country for the VS/HVS climber, loads of quality routes at these grades.
The Ivanator - 03/May/11

I have an original.will photocopy if you wish.07717 472518
jonty7 - 27/Jul/10

Probably the noisiest crag I've ever been to, courtesy of a non-stop procession of bikers on the road below!
Simon Caldwell - 20/Apr/09

I'm trying to locate a copy of the original (paperback)guide to the crag. Any suggestions please?
haydn taylor - 22/Aug/06