Wildcat Crags (aka Wild Cat)

Climbs 230 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Classic traditional routes on highly featured butresses up to 50m high. Lots of cracks, grooves, ribs and aretes of good quality rock for the most part (some vegetated finishes). Most routes are VS and above, with a lot in the HVS to E2 range. Classics include Lynx (HS 4b,4a), Cataclysm (VS 4b,5a), Golden Yardstick (VS 4c,5a). Catastrophe Grooves (HVS 4c,5a), Sunset Creek (E1 5b), Grand Cleft (E2 5b) and The Catcuss Furballs Connection (E5 6b).

Weather forecast

Today	Wed	Thu	Fri	Sat
Light rain/ drizzle Sunny/ clear 4 °C	Light snow Broken cloud 1 °C	Light snow Broken cloud 2 °C	Light rain/ drizzle Sunny periods 3 °C	Light rain/ drizzle Mainly cloudy 3 °C
Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), Northern Limestone (2004), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), Peak Limestone - South (1987),
Out of print: Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992)

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name	Grade	x

1	Trick Psychlist	F7c+ *	1
2	Strait Jacket	E4 6a **	7
3	Recoil	E3 5c **	11
4	Shock Treatment	F6c+	5
5	Lunatic Asylum	HVS 5c *	3
6	The Mentalist	F7a+ *	3
7	Borstal Breakout	VS 4b	3
8	Pink Panther	VS 4c	2
9	Original Route	S	10
10	Slippery Slabs Direct	VS 4c *	13
11	Whisker	VS 4c *	6
12	Bobcat	VS 4b	4
13	Brew Eleven	VD	6
14	Zaza	HVS 5a	1
15	Puma Direct	HVS 5a *	5
16	Puma Arete	VS	1
17	Puma Crack	VS	1
18	Another Time	E2 5b *	4
19	Tom Cat	HVS 4c *	1
20	Spectrum	VS 4c	2
21	Cat Call	VS 4c *	10
22	Caterpillar's Crawl	HVS 5a *	5
23	Puss Moth	HVS 5a	1
24	Catacomb Direct	HVS 5a *	9
25	Catastrophe Grooves	HVS 5a **	67
26	White Room	HVS 5a *	4
27	Lyon Route	E1 5b *	19
28	Coyote Buttress	HVS 5a **	55
29	Derek's Dilemma	VS 4c *	62
30	Broken Toe Groove	VS 4c *	86
31	Jackdaw Grooves	VS 4b **	144
32	Nine Lives Wall	HVS 5a *	47
33	Catharsis Wall	HVS 5a	14
34	Cats Eye	S 4a	103
35	Budweisser Effect	HVS 4c	6
36	McPlumb Wall	HVS 4c *	30
37	Negative 'G'	HVS 5b *	2
38	Cougar Cleft	HS 4a	24

	Climb name	Grade	x

39	Tiger Route 1	VS 4c *	28
40	Tiger Route 2	VS 4c	5
41	Ripsnorter	VS 4b *	15
42	Cat Walk	HS 4a *	73
43	Sourpuss	VS 4c *	22
44	Pupilla	VS 4c *	55
45	Manx	VS 4b *	76
46	Grand Prix	E1 5b *	1
47	Golden Yardstick	VS 5a **	159
48	Lobo	VS 4b *	36
49	The Catcuss Furballs Connection	E5 6b **	1
50	Tut's Anomalous	E1 5b **	15
51	Clash of Arms	E5 6b *
52	Great Cleft	E1 5c **	11
53	Lynx	HS **	140
54	Sphynx	VS 4c **	60
55	Climacteric	VS 5a *	37
56	Cataclysm	VS 5a ***	106
57	Metamorphosis	HVS *	9
58	Timing X	E1 5b *	6
59	End Game	HVS 5a *
60	Liberty Cap	E2 5c **	2
61	Great Crack	E2 5c **	3
62	Sunset Creek	E1 5b **	5
63	Go Go Grooves	HVS 5a **	4
64	Puma Passage	VS 4b *	4
65	Tiger Chimney	VD	1
66	Catacomb	VS 4c	4
67	Manky Meander	VS 4b	4
68	Felix Arete	HS 4a	2
69	Bird Lime Corner	MS *	1
70	The Ferreter	HS 4a *	1
71	Cracker Jack	HVD ***	5
72	Long Route	HS 4a	2
73	Wedge Buttress	S *	2
74	Mackering	VS 4c *	1
75	Tiger Tim	VS 4c	2

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Access notes
From various parking places in Matlock Bath head south past the Pavillion (Mining Museum), through the gardens and across the metal bridge. The main part of the crag is up and to the right.

Take care on descents and avoid entering the grounds of Willersley Castle when descending from Upper Tor.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Campsites, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Paz

USER FEEDBACK

Probably the noisiest crag I've ever been to, courtesy of a non-stop procession of bikers on the road below!
Toreador

- 20/Apr/09

I'm trying to locate a copy of the original (paperback)guide to the crag. Any suggestions please?
haydn taylor - 22/Aug/06

USER PHOTO GALLERY
Click to View all 7 photos of Wildcat Crags (aka Wild Cat). You can Upload your photos of this crag

Beryl Turner leading Golden Yardstick. VS 5a. Wildcat Crags.

Simon King happy at the suggestion of doing another limestone girdle traverse!

Sam leading the second pitch of The Golden Yardstick