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These details were last updated on 20/Nov/2012

Wildcat Crags (aka Wild Cat)

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 230 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 132m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Classic traditional routes on highly featured butresses up to 50m high. Lots of cracks, grooves, ribs and aretes of good quality rock for the most part (some vegetated finishes). Most routes are VS and above, with a lot in the HVS to E2 range. Classics include Lynx (HS 4b,4a), Cataclysm (VS 4b,5a), Golden Yardstick (VS 4c,5a). Catastrophe Grooves (HVS 4c,5a), Sunset Creek (E1 5b), Grand Cleft (E2 5b) and The Catcuss Furballs Connection (E5 6b).

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992), Peak Limestone - South (1987), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 NEW BRIDGE BUTTRESS  
2Criminally Insane7a+ *2
3Trick Psychlist7c+ *1
4Strait Psychlist7a+ **3
5Strait Jacket7a **33
6Recoil6b+ *52
7Shock Treatment7a 15
8Lunatic AsylumHVS 5c *13
9The Mentalist7a+ *10
 COYOTE BUTTRESS  
11Borstal BreakoutVS 4b 3
12Pink PantherVS 4c 4
13Original RouteS 14
14Slippery Slabs DirectVS 4c *25
15WhiskerVS 4c *10
16BobcatVS 4b 5
17Brew ElevenVD 8
18ZazaHVS 5a 1
19Puma DirectHVS 5a *12
20Puma AreteVS 3
21Puma CrackVS 3
22Another TimeE2 5b *12
23Tom CatHVS 4c *3
24SpectrumVS 4c 2
25New ExileE1 5b 5
26Cat CallVS 4c *22
27Caterpillar's CrawlHVS 5a *10
28Puss MothHVS 5a 2
29Catacomb DirectHVS 5a *21
30Catastrophe GroovesHVS 5a **135
31White RoomHVS 5a *11
32Lyon RouteE1 5b *48
33Cat CullE2 5c *1
34Coyote ButtressHVS 5a **135
35Derek's DilemmaVS 4c *130
36Broken Toe GrooveVS 4c *216
37Jackdaw GroovesVS 4b **310
38Nine Lives WallHVS 5a *133
39Catharsis WallHVS 5a 31
40Cats EyeS 4a 222
41Budweisser EffectHVS 4c 13
42McPlumb WallHVS 4c *57
43Negative 'G'HVS 5b *3
44Cougar CleftHS 4a 47
 HIGH CRAG  
46Tiger Route 1VS 4c *58
47Tiger Route 2VS 4c 13
48RipsnorterVS 4b *20
49Cat WalkHS 4a *176
50SourpussVS 4c *52
51PupillaVS 4c *116
52ManxVS 4b *156
53Grand PrixE1 5b *5
54Golden YardstickVS 5a **328
55LoboVS 4b *105
56The Catcuss Furballs ConnectionE5 6b **2
57Tut's AnomalousE1 5b **56
58Clash of ArmsE5 6b *1
59Great CleftE1 5c **39
60LynxHS 4b **312
61Stolen JewelE5 6b 1
62SphynxVS 4c **140
63ClimactericVS 5a *98
64CataclysmVS 5a ***236
65MetamorphosisHVS *22
66Timing XE1 5b *14
67End GameHVS 5a *4
 Climb nameGradex
68Liberty CapE2 5c **7
69Great CrackE2 5c **19
70Sunset CreekE1 5b **29
71Go Go GroovesHVS 5a **19
72Puma PassageVS 4b *11
73Tiger ChimneyVD 4
74CatacombVS 4c 11
75Manky MeanderVS 4b 6
76Felix AreteHS 4a 5
77Bird Lime CornerMS *1
78The FerreterHS 4a *1
79Cracker JackHVD ***12
80Long RouteHS 4a 6
81Wedge ButtressS *4
82MackeringVS 4c *5
83Tiger TimVS 4c 5
84BlurbHVS 5a *3
85Kit-E-KatVS 2
86Coyote CrackVS **4
87Green CracksVS 1
88TerminalE2 5c 1
89Return of the NativeE4 6a 1
90Down, Down to Hell and Say I Sent Thee ThitherE2 5c **1
91Golden Yardstick DirectE1 5c *1
92Blue Grass SpecialHVS 5a *3
93DropD  
94ShoeS 4b  
95DodgeS 4c  
96AfterVS 5b  
97Sooner or LaterHVS 5b * 
98Top CatVS 4c 6
99Schoolboy ScoopVD *1
100OverhangMVS 4b *3
101Old Joe Clark *D 1
102Ground Hog *VD 1
103Shelter's End *VS 4b 1
104Roof Groove *VD 1
105Clang *VS 4b 1
106Fisherman's Wall *VS 4b 1
107Puma Chimney *VD 2
108Chatti Chimney *HS 4a 1
109Feline *HS 1
110Diagonal *S 1
111End Scoop *S 1
112Leafy lane *E1 5b 1
113Wall End Crack *S 1
114Gren Slab *VD 1
115Broken Groove *S 1
116Split Prow *S 1
117Chocker Block *VD 2
118Rib Wrecker *VS 4c 1
119Curving Chimney *MVS 4a 1
120High Bank Crack *VS 5a 1
121Deep Chimney *HS 4b 1
122Split Wall *MS 2
123Slab Route *D 1
124Jumper *VD 1
125Zipper *S 1
126The Traverse *E1 5c ***3
127Slow Feedback *E1 5b *1
128Banjo Flake *E1 5b *2
129Ukelele Wall *VS 4c 1
130Molybdenum *E2 5c 2
131Reality Clause *E2 5b 2
132Still Waters *E1 5c 1
133Koala *E1 5b 1
134Shades of Grey *HVS 5a 1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
From various parking places in Matlock Bath head south past the Pavillion (Mining Museum), through the gardens and across the metal bridge. The main part of the crag is up and to the right.

Take care on descents and avoid entering the grounds of Willersley Castle when descending from Upper Tor.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer xplorer ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
awesome crag, if you want to know more go to http://gachieve.blogspot.com/ for crag review
lm610 ? - 07/Jul/11

Had a great day here, must be one of the best crags in the country for the VS/HVS climber, loads of quality routes at these grades.
The Ivanator ? - 03/May/11

I have an original.will photocopy if you wish.07717 472518
jonty7 ? - 27/Jul/10

Probably the noisiest crag I've ever been to, courtesy of a non-stop procession of bikers on the road below!
Toreador ? - 20/Apr/09

I'm trying to locate a copy of the original (paperback)guide to the crag. Any suggestions please?
haydn taylor - 22/Aug/06