Horseshoe Quarry

Climbs 315 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 260m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features

The centre of mid and lower grade sport climbing in the Peak with many good routes between 6a and 7a, and a few below. Purchased by the BMC in 2005 for the good of the nation, access is now freely allowed (with the usual caveats) and is dedicated as CROW land.


Quick drying and a good year round venue. Popular on sunny evenings. The best routes are on the Main Wall, 23m high, reasonably sound, but often sportingly bolted. Bolts and lower-offs on some routes have recently been replaced by the BMC, but this does not mean that the bolt spacing is comparable to an indoor wall. Best routes are Rain Dance (F6c+), Legal Action (F6c), Run For Your Wife (F6c+), Private Prosecution (F6c+), Litany Against Fear (F6b+), Megalithic Man (F6b+) and Shot Your Bolt (F6b+).


Sectors on either side off the Main Wall, and indeed above it on the Upper Tier, have been developed more recently and tend to be more closely bolted. However the rock tends to be less reliable, and although the BMC has undertaken some stabilization work, care should be exercised. Wearing a helmet is advisable, particularly when belaying. Nonetheless there are good routes to be found in most of the outlying areas - such as Rage (6b) and Excavator(5).


A few trad routes remain - such as Do Android Dream of Electric Sheep (E1 5c).


Up-to-the-minute topos can be found at www.sportsclimbs.co.uk

Approach notes

Parking for about 12 cars at the quarry entrance, which is just off the A623 at SK 205760, 1-2km west of Stoney Middleton. Do not block the turning circle. If this is full (which it often is), drive a little further west and park in the lay-bys either side of the road. Take care walking back along the road.

Access notes

The BMC own this popular sport climbing venue and the site is actively managed for the benefit of climbers and local nature interests. The rock in Horseshoe Quarry varies from good quality, solid rock to some areas which can be loose and hollow. As with all climbing, both climbers and belayers should be aware of this and pay close attention at all times and use of helmets is advisable. There have been recent reports (as of Oct 2010) that a block has fallen off from a route in the vicinity of 'Barney Rubble'. Climbers should take care to evaluate whether fixed gear on these routes has not been affected by this rockfall - bolts or lower offs may have become undercut and unstable as a result. Please adhere to the on-site signing.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone North (2015), Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), From Horseshoe to Harpur Hill (2004), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 ROUTES THAT HAVE FALLEN DOWN  
2Monkey stole my walkman6b *11
 SOUTH BAY  
4NYD6a+  
5Pig in a Poke5a 8
6Bad Boys Ink6a 24
7Unruly Behaviour6a+ 14
8Treatment6b 15
9Therapy6b+ *32
10Porgi Amor6a+ *65
11Foreign Tongues6a 49
12Gouranga6c *20
13You crack me upE1 5b 2
14MiniGrip7a+ 3
15Unhung6a+  
16The Fire Hang6b  
17Hang Fire6a  
18The Gobbler5c  
19Christmas Presence6c+  
 HEART BUTTRESS  
21Nine Eleven6a 2
22Seven Eleven6b *2
23Tors Colon6c+ 2
24Vent Your Spleen7b *3
25Heart to HeartE4 6a * 
26Sliver6c+ *2
27Stomach Pump7a+ 1
28Skin Flint6b+ 1
29The Blood Bank6b 3
30Sharing Best Practice6a+ 1
31Taylor-Parkinson GullyIV 5 1
 CHOCOLATE BLANCMANGE WALL  
33Barney Rubble5c 34
34Chauvi's Slab5c *66
35Still Nacht5c 14
36Trog5a 79
37Neanderthal5c 156
38Men at Work5a 61
39The Quarrymen6a 58
40Excavator5c *324
41Slab Cake4c 143
42Spare Rib #15a 86
43The Cake Walk4a 144
44Christmas Pud4c 111
45Sago Slab4a 135
46Dream Topping4c 151
47Chocolate Blancmange Gullynone xvd 5
48Cinema RageE1 5b 1
 AFRICA BUTTRESS  
50Elizabethville6a 1
51Burundi6b  
52Townships6c+  
53Victoria Falls6b 2
54Kariba6a+ 3
55Zanzibar6b 3
56Simonstone6c+ *1
57Out of Africa6b+ 4
58Madagasca6b *18
59Bird Island6a *30
60Seychelles6b 10
61Rainbow Warrior6c *21
62Weakened Warrior6b 3
63Sam In You Eye6a+ 8
64Ring Thane6c+ 2
65Pretoria6b+  
66Mombassa6a *1
67Greenpeace6a 5
 LEFT HAND WALLS  
69During the War6a+ *30
70Before the War5a 45
71Sahara6b+ 5
72Union Jack5a 29
73African't6b+ 3
74Desperate Dan6b 5
75Fine and Dandy6b 1
76African6a+ 5
77Bloodguard6c+ 3
78Grab yer Mandrakes6b 14
79Tirfin Mandrakes6a+ 6
80Tirfin USA6a+ *50
81Tirf's High6a+ 35
82Race of the Freuds6b+ 18
83Peckling Fever5c 192
84Senter Home6a 67
85Tirf 'er Off6a+ 31
86Mail on Sunday6b *47
87Bootiful Bernard Mathews6b *19
88Nowt Taken Out6b 15
89Foul's Bane6a+ *65
90Drool Rock Worm6b 11
91Stone Throat6b *17
92Slay the Gray6b 5
93Mr. Cellulite's Arete6a+ 27
94Bandolier6a 81
95Underslung6b+  
96The Little Thin Mexican Across the Border6b *14
97Desperate Measures6b+ 14
98The Mexican takes Lexicon6a+ *95
99Exceeding the Speed Limit6b 19
100Mind Your Head6b+ 17
101Desperate Housewives6a 27
102Collared6a *165
103Spare Rib #26b 49
104Eddie McStiff6a+ 43
105Pelvic Thrust6b 52
106The Hippy Hippy Shakes6a+ 38
107Due Care and Attention6a+ 153
108Any Old Iron6a 152
109Sunday Sport6b *243
110Austin Powers6b 66
111The Big Fat Texan on the Corner6a *429
112He Seems so Sumo6a 190
113Olive Oil6a 141
114Removal Man4c 203
115Some Place6b 27
116Sag Ponir5c *385
 MAIN WALL  
118Pale Rider6a *895
119Rain Dance6c **180
120The Colostomy Finish7a 25
121Physical Fizz6c 25
122School's Out6a+ **691
123Rotund Rooley/Schools Out combo6a *2
124Rotund Rooley6b **468
125Wave of Mutilation7a *82
126First Day Of WinterHVS 5b *16
127Wall of Jericho6b *367
128The Leading Line6b+ *108
129Say it With Flowers6c **151
130Legal Action6c **208
131Run For Your Wife6c+ **49
132Private Prosecution6c ***205
133Litany Against Fear6c **193
134Megalithic Man6b+ **420
135Megalithic Man (Direct Finish)6c+ **49
136Poisonality7a *33
137An Ancient Rhythm6c **66
138Demolition Man7a **69
139Shot Yer Bolt6b+ **251
140Southern Man7a+ *21
141Nice Face, Shame about the Ledge6b+ *73
142Flat World7a+ *27
143Lost Monolith6b+ *38
144The French ConnectionE4 6a 1
145ConformistE2 6a 1
146Screwy DriverE1 5b 18
147Harvey Wallbanger6b 3
148Sound as a CarpE1 5b 1
149Spring AwakeningHVS 5a 14
 ANDROIDS SECTOR  
151Mutley Stole my Route Man6b 3
152Winter Fingers6b 8
153Broken to Bits6c+  
154Down to the Last6b 3
155Fragmented6c 2
156Mice Breaker6b+ 6
157Finishing off6b+ 9
158SpectophotometryE1 5b 7
15950 Bolts to the Gallon6a 92
160Like Fire Like Ice6a 24
161Like Ice, Like Fire (Trad)E1 5b *44
162Galening CrackHVS 5a **31
163CompromiseE2 5b 5
164Promises6a+ 35
165The Rottin' Word6c 6
166Decaydence6c 4
167Order Number 59E2 5c 5
168A Right Earful6a+ *123
169Clean Your Mouth Out6c+ *20
170The Dust Bunnies7a *11
171Lets Kill DillE4 6a 2
172Dalken Shield6b *59
173Hardcore! You Know the Score6b *121
174The Director's Cut6a+ *82
175Blade Runner6a+ *45
176Bruce's Bonus6b *117
177Androids DirectE1 5b *7
178Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep?E2 5c *67
179Rage6b *93
180The Running Man6b *82
181The Long Walk6c  
182The Dark Tower6b+ 8
183The Drawing of the Three6b+ 4
184Willie the Kid6a+ *62
185Calamity Jane6b+ 23
186Jeff Garrett6a+ *37
187The Dogs6b 25
188Derailed6a+ *50
189Passage of Time6b *66
 TOILET SECTOR  
191The Sewer6a+ 121
192Latrine5a 451
193Armitage6a 222
194Shanks6a 116
195Potty6a 139
196Psycho Ceramic6a+ 88
197The Bog6a *215
198Twyfords6a+ 237
199The Small Room6a+ *184
200Thomas Crapper6a *348
201Two Loos4c *258
202Montezuma's Revenge6b 148
203Latrec5a *276
204Toilet Graffiti5c 132
205Toilet Humour5a 105
206De Throne5a 127
207On Uranus6a *78
208Eau de Toilette6a 42
209Wipe it Clean6a 18
210Andrex6b 25
211Easy Come, Easy Go3 37
 UPPER TIER (WEST SIDE)  
 TOP QUARRY  
214Mickey3 15
215Minnie3 18
216Daffy4a 17
217Goofy3+ 14
218Donald3+ 13
219Pluto3+ 11
220A Tracky Little Problem4a 50
221Tracker Bar5c 4
222A Tracky Little Bleeder5a 47
223Gargle Blaster6a 264
224Uranus3+ 412
225Luke Skywalker4a *346
226Klingon4a 369
227Saturns Rings4c 243
228Vogon6a 260
229Dr. Who?6a *121
230Torchwood5c 72
231Beam me Across Scotty!5a 103
232The Libertines6b  
233Taking Liberties6c+ 4
234Statuesque6a 7
235Mucker's Wall6a+ 38
236A Fit of Peak6a+ 10
237Citizen's Arete5a 82
238Fredonia6b 3
239Drumming in a Lay-byE1 5b 1
240GreedorE2 5b *1
241The Whinger6a+ 23
242Off Limits6a+ 33
 UPPER TIER (EAST SIDE)  
244Brew Thyme6a 2
245Thyme Out6a 2
246Whats the Thyme6a 3
247Bridge Over the River Thyme5a 4
248Bit of Spare Thyme5c 3
249Fat Betty4c 10
250Take Your Thyme5c 11
251Porridge4c *16
252Crunch yer Nuts4a *19
253Soggy Bottom Boys6b+ *9
254Man of Constant Sorrow5c 26
255Big Rock Candy Mountain6a 46
256Everett's Arete5c 14
257Repulse5a 13
258Prince of Wales5c 10
259That Old DA Look4a 17
260FOP6a 19
261In The Jailhouse6a 6
262Po Lazarus5c 4
263No Way is Patience a Virtue6b *94
264O Brother Where Art Thou?6a *120
265Unnamed (Narrow Pillar)6a 6
266Dapper Dan6a *74
267Babe The Blue Axe5c 72
268Cretan6b+ 8
269Corinthian Spirit6a 29
270Theseus-Saurus6b+ 7
271It's all Greek to Me6b *25
272The Miner Tour6c+ 4
273Olympiakus6c  
274Her Aklion6c 4
275Almost There5a 38
276Into the Labyrinth6a *117
277Into the Labyrinth (Trad)E1 5b 8
278By Zeus6a+ *103
279Spiteful Rain (First Prize)5c 144
280Second Prize6a 39
281Consolation5c *95
282Tawny Owl Pie5a 53
283The Owl6c 12
284White DoveE1 5b *14
285Nullo in Mundo Pax Sincera6c+ 4
286Two Flat Whites6a+  
287Supplementary Question (Slab and Corner)4c *118
288A Liberal Smear6c 6
289Labour Relations6c+ 19
290P.M.'s Question TimeE3 6a 4
291Booker Prize6a+ *58
292Sir Pryze6a+ *109
293Oy Missus6c+ 4
294Mr. Blue Sky7a *17
295Esso BlueHVS 5b 6
296Smoke Gets in Your Eyes6c *18
297Shell Super6c 1
298Esso ExtraE1 5b 3
299Mumble Jumble7a *5
300Fargo6a+ 36
301Blue Sunday6b *40
302Do It Yourself6b+ 4
303New Bolts And Yankees6a 17
304Kushti6a+ 30
305Lovely Bubbly6c+ 4
306Slabby but Nice6a *75
307Sam And Mary5a 10
308Ma Marmalade6a+ 8
309Slam the Jam6a *60
310Jam Slice6b 4
311Don't Try This at Home6c+ 1
312Red Rum5c 9
313NijinskiE2 5b *20
314Seated MoonE2 5b **4
315The Party Animal6b *32
316Cafť BleuE3 6a 10
317Dinky ToyE4 6b 6
318Corgi Registered6b 4
319Hornby6a+ 4
 DOODAH BUTTRESS  
321Ol' Dirty BastardE3 5c 1
322Monster TraverseE3 6a **3
323Hot ZippertyHVS 5a 2
 NEW, UNKNOWN OR DUPLICATES  
325A Serial Affair6b 2
326First Prize5c  
327The Soggy6b  
328Spare Rib6b 3
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris the Tall

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Had a cracking day climbing here 21/04/14 round the toilet area, had no problems with rock falling off! The climbs were in good condition!
sam_whitehouse - 21/Apr/14
Climbed some lines on the slabs at the far end of the quarry on Saturday. A massive flake came off in my hands and split on the way down causing a chunk to hit my partners head. It has cracked her helmet and caused a slight head injury. I would seriously advise not to go up on here even if the lower grades are tempting as my piece wasn't the only piece that fell off!
Rhi Rhi - 22/Apr/13
Climbed a couple of lines on Guoranga Buttress Saturday and suggest avoiding them. It's all very loose and after doing a route we moved elsewhere for fear of doing more damage to the rock!
seanraby - 07/May/12
went there thursday last week and tuesday this week. did most of the 4+ on the slabs. good routes although the ground underneath is very eroded so be careful. Did latrine and removal man which were really good routes. good venue.
danimal - 10/Feb/11
Doodah Buttress is the short wall to the right of the upper tier. In the 1986 Stoney guide, but none of the more recent ones. Classics(?) include Pot-washer's wall (HVS 5b*) and Hot Zipperty (HVS 5a*). Rumour has it that this area has also been used for dry-tooling
Chris the Tall - 29/Oct/10
i just wanted to say thank you to the four guys who helped me on the 28-05-2010. i realy apreciate everything you did for me, from packing my gear to carrying it all out for me. but most of all for comforting clare while i was being treated. your a lovely bunch and i hope our paths will cross again someday, hopefully under better circumstances. best regards too you and a top venue. mike. no broken bones
mike-a-walton - 31/May/10
Horseshoe was one of the first of the peak district quarries to be developed to cater for the growing need of lower grade (sub 7s) sport climbing. It's amazing the place now sports over 250 routes although the quality of the vast majority of these is fairly poor. The crag is popular mainly because there are few other sport crags around that have many routes in the sixes and below. Being a disused quarry it's not exactly the most aesthetic place to climb but it's got a sunny aspect and it's far enough from the main road to at least be quiet. The main wall is by far the best part of the crag. The routes here lack natural lines: most are just blank walls linking up small features between the horizontal breaks. But good rock and interesting, and sometimes very technical climbing, more than make up for that. The bolts are in good condition, well placed and sometimes spaced far enough apart to add a little bit of excitement to the climbing too. If 6c is your grade Horseshoe has a handful of decent routes that make a visit definitely worthwhile.
stp - 19/Oct/09
i went last saturday , for my fisrt ever sport climbing day, apart from nearly pulling the routes off and leaving just a wall of soil, it was good, but it seemed as the routes get harder, it gets more polished, its a good crag but just needs a bit of getting used to. Ill be going back soon.
Liam Copley - 01/Jun/08
I agree with Wal's comments. But please don't light a bleedin' BBQ while people are climbing. There are so many varying sport routes here and still some excellent trad routes. I must have been here a dozen times over the last couple of years and tomorrow I'm going again cos it might be showery and it's easy to get off if you get caught in the rain - also there's nearly always something dry at Horseshoe if it's wet everywhere else.
Richard 261 - 09/Nov/07
Visited horseshoe for the first time on Sun 10 Jun 07 - after almost being put off by the earlier comments posted here. So glad I went! What a great sports climbing location! More than a hundred well bolted routes from 4 to 7, sheltered site, sun trap, tidy, no graffiti, no litter, easy access. What more could you want?
skyhigh269 - 11/Jun/07
Suitable for beginners/bottom-ropeing??? Right donw road from my aunties so is in fantastic location!
nolo - 24/Jun/06
When Iím hanging on by my finger-nails, I just donít seem to spend much time admiring the views!! For all its faults, there is a great selection of routes, itís very accessible and when the sun is out thereís plenty of space for Frisbees and barBQ.
Wal Holmes - 01/Jun/06
I must agree that the quarry is a good place to climb. And at what crag don't you get loose rock as all rock is vulnerable to weather conditions causing erosion.
MattieS - 09/May/06
i think it's a great place to climb there are just so many bolted routes at do-able grades. ok there's a fair bit of loose rock but if you're careful and wear helmets you'll be ok. it may not be beutiful and it may not be tranquil but the only time i've ever seen more climbable rock in one place was the grand canyon. in my opinion it's a great day out.
Josh - 01/Aug/05
After reading the comments above, I think there must be 2 Horseshoe quarries. In the one I go to, I have never encountered any polished routes. There are literally hundreds of good, well bolted routes in the 6a - 6c grades and even a few good trad routes. True enough, it's more like an outdoor climbing wall than a real crag, but my climbing is improving every time I go there. I'm looking forward to Pembroke in August, but I'll still keep going to Horseshoe.
Richard 261 - 26/Jun/05
Includes a gully at the left hand end of the lower tier described in On Peak Rock. "Quite Tricky, 50m"!
mad matt - 30/May/05
Been there today for the first time, i thought it was great and the sun was out.....cracking day! i know what you mean about the loose rock, bring on the adventure...............
JayJay - 12/May/05
I like it!
Adam Moroz - 18/Feb/05
There are sections of the quarry where you have to wonder "why bother?". If the BMC is to buy the quarry then serious consideration should be given as to whether some routes should be pulled down on safety grounds.
Bob - 06/Sep/04
So its not ideal, but what the hell, if you don't like, don't climb there, then it will not get so polished!!!!!!
Bob - 01/Sep/04
You might want to include a warning about loose rock and friable holds, particularly on the newer routes. Belayers should either wear a helmet or avoid standing directly below the route - or both - and even then you might not be safe!
Chris the Tall - 07/Aug/03
Well bolted but an extremely dangerous slab due to some very big loose rocks (especially on the first 2 routes from the left). If you are determined to climb there, a helmet is essential.
Antony - 16/Jul/03
Dont knock it. The best routes are good, particularly in the Legal Action to Megalithic area. Why would it be so popular if they were not? Beware some of the recent developmments though.
Harold - 24/Dec/02
I like it and most of my mates do as well, not a pretty place, but hey how many sports crags have we got? Some good routes on the top level. Stu
StuT - 08/Nov/02
A bloody awfull crag!!!! Dropped straight in the Peak from the Devil's backside. Embodies all the worst aspects of climbing, i.e. polished, badly bolted, chipped, quarried, ugly. We don't have to stoop to this....
Dave - 08/Nov/02
This place is so ugly people shouldn't be allowed to climb here.....actually I don't think you are allowed to climb here. [You are - UKC Ed.]
Stone Donkey - 08/Nov/02