Horseshoe Quarry

Climbs 315 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 260m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
The centre of mid and lower grade sport climbing in the Peak with many good routes between 6a and 7a, and a few below. Purchased by the BMC in 2005 for the good of the nation, access is now freely allowed (with the usual caveats) and is dedicated as CROW land.

Quick drying and a good year round venue. Popular on sunny evenings. The best routes are on the Main Wall, 23m high, reasonably sound, but often sportingly bolted. Bolts and lower-offs on some routes have recently been replaced by the BMC, but this does not mean that the bolt spacing is comparable to an indoor wall. Best routes are Rain Dance (F6c+), Legal Action (F6c), Run For Your Wife (F6c+), Private Prosecution (F6c+), Litany Against Fear (F6b+), Megalithic Man (F6b+) and Shot Your Bolt (F6b+).

Sectors on either side off the Main Wall, and indeed above it on the Upper Tier, have been developed more recently and tend to be more closely bolted. However the rock tends to be less reliable, and although the BMC has undertaken some stabilization work, care should be exercised. Wearing a helmet is advisable, particularly when belaying. Nonetheless there are good routes to be found in most of the outlying areas - such as Rage (6b) and Excavator(5).

A few trad routes remain - such as Do Android Dream of Electric Sheep (E1 5c).

Up-to-the-minute topos can be found at www.sportsclimbs.co.uk

Access notes
Parking for about 12 cars at the quarry entrance, which is just off the A623 at SK 205760, 1-2km west of Stoney Middleton. Do not block the turning circle. If this is full (which it often is), drive a little further west and park in the lay-bys either side of the road. Take care walking back along the road.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), From Horseshoe to Harpur Hill (2004), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 ROUTES THAT HAVE FALLEN DOWN 
2Monkey stole my walkman6b *
 GOURANGA BAY 
4Pig in a Poke5c *
5Bad Boys Ink6a
6Unruly Behaviour6a+
7Treatment6b
8Therapy6b+ *
9Porgi Amor6a+ *
10Foreign Tongues6a *
11Gouranga6c *
12You crack me upE1 5b
13Minni Grip7a+ **
 HEART BUTTRESS 
15Tors Colon6c+
16Vent Your Spleen7b *
17Heart to HeartE4 6a *
18Sliver6c+ *
19Stomach Pump7a+
20Skin Flint6b+
21The Blood Bank6b
22Sharing Best Practice6b
23Taylor-Parkinson GullyIV 5
 THE SLABS 
25Barney Rubble5c
26Chauvi's Slab5c
27Still Nacht5c
28Trog5a
29Neanderthal5c
30Men at Work5a
31The Quarrymen6a
32Excavator5a *
33Slab Cake4c *
34Spare Rib #15a *
35The Cake Walk4a
36Christmas Pud4c
37Sago Slab4a
38Dream Topping4c
39Chocolate Blancmange Gullynone xvd
40Cinema RageE1 5b
 AFRICA BUTTRESS 
42Elizabethville6a+
43Burundi6b
44Townships6c+
45Victoria Falls6a
46Kariba6a+
47Zanzibar6b
48Simonstone6c+
49Out of Africa6b+
50Madagasca6b
51Bird Island6a
52Seychelles6b
53Rainbow Warrior6c *
54Weakened Warrior6b
55Sam In You Eye6a+ *
56Ring Thane6c+
57Pretoria6b+
58Mombassa6a
59Greenpeace6a
 LEFT HAND WALLS 
61During the War6a+
62Before the War5a
63Sahara6b+
64Union Jack5a
65African't6b+
66Desperate Dan6b
67Fine and Dandy6b
68African6b
69Bloodguard6c+
70Grab yer Mandrakes6b
71Tirfin Mandrakes6a+
72Tirfin USA6a+
73Tirf's High6a+
74Race of the Freuds6b+
75Peckling Fever5c
76Senter Home6a
77Tirf 'er Off6a
78Mail on Sunday6b *
79Bootiful Bernard Mathews6b *
80Nowt Taken Out6b
81Foul's Bane6a+
82Drool Rock Worm6b
83Stone Throat6b
84Slay the Gray6b
85Mr. Cellulite's Arete6a+
86Bandolier6a
87The Little Thin Mexican Across the Border6b
88Desperate Measures6b+
89The Mexican takes Lexicon6a+
90Exceeding the Speed Limit6b
91Mind Your Head6b+
92Desperate Housewives6a
93Collared6a
94Spare Rib #26b
95Eddie McStiff6a+ *
96Pelvic Thrust6b
97The Hippy Hippy Shakes6a+
98Due Care and Attention6a+ *
99Any Old Iron6a
100Sunday Sport6b
101Austin Powers6b
102The Big Fat Texan on the Corner6a *
103He Seems so Sumo6a
104Olive Oil6a
105Removal Man4c
106Some People6b
107Sag Ponir5a
 MAIN WALL 
109Pale Rider6a *
110Rain Dance6b+ *
111The Colostomy Finish7a
112Physical Fizz6c
113School's Out6a+ *
114Rotund Rooley6b *
115Wave of Mutilation7a
116First Day Of WinterHVS 5b
117Wall of Jericho6b *
118The Leading Line6b+
119Say it With Flowers6c **
120Legal Action6c **
121Run For Your Wife6c+ **
122Private Prosecution6b+ **
123Litany Against Fear6b+ **
124Megalithic Man6b+ **
125Megalithic Man (Direct Finish)6c+ **
126Poisonality7a *
127An Ancient Rhythm6c **
128Demolition Man7a **
129Shot Yer Bolt6b+ **
130Southern Man7a+ *
131Nice Face, Shame about the Ledge6b+
132Flat World7a+
133Lost Monolith6b+
134The French ConnectionE4 6a
135ConformistE2 6a
136Screwy DriverE1 5b
137Harvey Wallbanger6b
138Sound as a CarpE1 5b
139Spring AwakeningHVS 5a *
 ANDROIDS SECTOR 
141Mutley Stole my Route Man6b
142Winter Fingers6b
143Mice Breaker6b+
144Finishing off6b+
145SpectophotometryE1 5b
14650 Bolts to the Gallon6a
147Like Fire Like Ice6a
148Like Ice, Like Fire (Trad)E1 5b *
149Galening CrackHVS 5a *
150CompromiseE2 5b
151Promises6a+
152The Rottin' Word6c
153Decaydence6c
154Order Number 59E2 5c
155A Right Earful6a+
156Clean Your Mouth Out6c+
157The Dust Bunnies6c+
158Lets Kill DillE4 6a
159Dalken Shield6b *
160Hardcore! You Know the Score6b *
161The Director's Cut6a+
162Blade Runner6a+ *
163Bruce's Bonus6b *
164Androids DirectE1 5b *
165Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep?E1 5c *
166Rage6b
167The Running Man6a+
168The Dark Tower6b+
169The Drawing of the Three6b+
170Willie the Kid6a
171Calamity Jane6b+
172Jeff Garrett6b
173The Dogs6b
174Derailed6a+
175Passage of Time6b
 TOILET SECTOR 
177The Sewer6a+
178Latrine5a
179Armitage6a
180Shanks6a
181Potty6a
182Psycho Ceramic6a+
183The Bog6a
184Twyfords6a+
185The Small Room6a+
186Thomas Crapper6a
187Two Loos4a
188Montezuma's Revenge6b
189Latrec5a
190Toilet Graffiti5a
191Toilet Humour5a
192De Throne5a
193On Uranus6a
194Eau de Toilette6a
195Wipe it Clean6a
196Andrex6b
197Easy Come, Easy Go3
 UPPER TIER (WEST SIDE) 
199Mickey3
200Minnie3
201Daffy4a
202Goofy3+
203Donald3+
204Pluto3+
205A Tracky Little Problem4a
206Tracker Bar5c
207A Tracky Little Bleeder5a
208Gargle Blaster6a
209Uranus3+
210Luke Skywalker4a
211Klingon4a *
212Saturns Rings4a *
213Vogon6a
214Dr. Who?6a
215Torchwood6a+
216Beam me Across Scotty!5a
217Taking Liberties6c+
218Statuesque6a
219Mucker's Wall6a+
220A Fit of Peak6a+
221Citizen's Arete5a
222Fredonia6b
223Drumming in a Lay-byE1 5b
224GreedorE2 5b *
225The Whinger6a+
226Off Limits6a+
 UPPER TIER (EAST SIDE) 
228Brew Thyme6a
229Thyme Out6a
230Whats the Thyme6a
231Bridge Over the River Thyme5a
232Bit of Spare Thyme5c
233Fat Betty4c
234Take Your Tyme5c
235Porridge4c
236Crunch yer Nuts4a
237Soggy Bottom Boys6b+ *
238Man of Constant Sorrow5c
239Big Rock Candy Mountain6a
240Everett's Arete5c
241Repulse5a
242Prince of Wales5c
243That Old DA Look4a
244FOP6a
245In The Jailhouse6a
246Po Lazarus5c
247No Way is Patience a Virtue6b *
248O Brother Where Art Thou?6a
249Unnamed (Narrow Pillar)6a
250Dapper Dan6a+
251Babe The Blue Axe6a
252Cretan6b+
253Corinthian Spirit6a
254Theseus-Saurus6b+
255It's all Greek to Me6b
256The Miner Tour6c+
257Her Aklion6c
258Almost There5a
259Into the Labyrinth5c
260Into the Labyrinth (Trad)E1 5b
261By Zeus6a+
262Spiteful Rain (First Prize)5c
263Second Prize6a
264Consolation5a
265Tawny Owl Pie5a
266The Owl6c
267White DoveE1 5b *
268Nullo in Mundo Pax Sincera6c+
269Supplementary Question (Slab and Corner)4c
270A Liberal Smear6c
271Labour Relations6c+
272P.M.'s Question TimeE3 6a
273Booker Prize6a
274Sir Pryze6a+ *
275Oy Missus6c
276Mr. Blue Sky7a
277Esso BlueHVS 5b
278Smoke Gets in Your Eyes6c
279Esso ExtraE1 5b
280Mumble Jumble7a
281Fargo6a
282Blue Sunday6b
283Do It Yourself6c
284New Bolts And Yankees6a
285Kushti6a
286Lovely Bubbly6c+
287Slabby but Nice5c
288Sam And Mary5a
289Ma Marmalade6a+
290Slam the Jam5c
291Jam Slice6b
292Red Rum5c
293NijinskiE2 5b
294Seated MoonE2 5b **
295The Party Animal6b
296Café BleuE3 6a
297Dinky Toy6c *
298Corgi Registered6b
299Hornby6a+
 DOODAH BUTTRESS 
301Ol' Dirty BastardE3 5c
302Monster TraverseE3 6a **
303Hot ZippertyHVS 5a
304A Serial Affair 6b
305Two Flat Whites *6a+
 ROUTES ADDED FROM ROCKFAX BOOK 
 TOP QUARRY 
 SOUTH BAY 
 CHOCOLATE BLANCMANGE WALL 
310First Prize5c
311The Libertines6b
312Nine Eleven6a
313Seven Eleven6b *
314MiniGrip7a+
315Unhung6a+
316The Fire Hang6b
317Hang Fire6a
318The Gobbler5c
319Christmas Presence6c+
320NYD6a+
321Underslung6b+
322Broken to Bits6c+
323Down to the Last6b
324Fragmented6c
325The Long Walk6c
326The Soggy6b
327Take Your Thyme5c
328Olympiakus6c
329Shell Super6c
330Don't Try This at Home6c+
331Spare Rib6b
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris the Tall

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Had a cracking day climbing here 21/04/14 round the toilet area, had no problems with rock falling off! The climbs were in good condition!
sam_whitehouse - 21/Apr/14
Climbed some lines on the slabs at the far end of the quarry on Saturday. A massive flake came off in my hands and split on the way down causing a chunk to hit my partners head. It has cracked her helmet and caused a slight head injury. I would seriously advise not to go up on here even if the lower grades are tempting as my piece wasn't the only piece that fell off!
Rhi Rhi - 22/Apr/13
Climbed a couple of lines on Guoranga Buttress Saturday and suggest avoiding them. It's all very loose and after doing a route we moved elsewhere for fear of doing more damage to the rock!
seanraby - 07/May/12
went there thursday last week and tuesday this week. did most of the 4+ on the slabs. good routes although the ground underneath is very eroded so be careful. Did latrine and removal man which were really good routes. good venue.
danimal - 10/Feb/11
Doodah Buttress is the short wall to the right of the upper tier. In the 1986 Stoney guide, but none of the more recent ones. Classics(?) include Pot-washer's wall (HVS 5b*) and Hot Zipperty (HVS 5a*). Rumour has it that this area has also been used for dry-tooling
Chris the Tall - 29/Oct/10
i just wanted to say thank you to the four guys who helped me on the 28-05-2010. i realy apreciate everything you did for me, from packing my gear to carrying it all out for me. but most of all for comforting clare while i was being treated. your a lovely bunch and i hope our paths will cross again someday, hopefully under better circumstances. best regards too you and a top venue. mike. no broken bones
mike-a-walton - 31/May/10
Horseshoe was one of the first of the peak district quarries to be developed to cater for the growing need of lower grade (sub 7s) sport climbing. It's amazing the place now sports over 250 routes although the quality of the vast majority of these is fairly poor. The crag is popular mainly because there are few other sport crags around that have many routes in the sixes and below. Being a disused quarry it's not exactly the most aesthetic place to climb but it's got a sunny aspect and it's far enough from the main road to at least be quiet. The main wall is by far the best part of the crag. The routes here lack natural lines: most are just blank walls linking up small features between the horizontal breaks. But good rock and interesting, and sometimes very technical climbing, more than make up for that. The bolts are in good condition, well placed and sometimes spaced far enough apart to add a little bit of excitement to the climbing too. If 6c is your grade Horseshoe has a handful of decent routes that make a visit definitely worthwhile.
stp - 19/Oct/09
i went last saturday , for my fisrt ever sport climbing day, apart from nearly pulling the routes off and leaving just a wall of soil, it was good, but it seemed as the routes get harder, it gets more polished, its a good crag but just needs a bit of getting used to. Ill be going back soon.
Liam Copley - 01/Jun/08
I agree with Wal's comments. But please don't light a bleedin' BBQ while people are climbing. There are so many varying sport routes here and still some excellent trad routes. I must have been here a dozen times over the last couple of years and tomorrow I'm going again cos it might be showery and it's easy to get off if you get caught in the rain - also there's nearly always something dry at Horseshoe if it's wet everywhere else.
Richard 261 - 09/Nov/07
Visited horseshoe for the first time on Sun 10 Jun 07 - after almost being put off by the earlier comments posted here. So glad I went! What a great sports climbing location! More than a hundred well bolted routes from 4 to 7, sheltered site, sun trap, tidy, no graffiti, no litter, easy access. What more could you want?
skyhigh269 - 11/Jun/07
Suitable for beginners/bottom-ropeing??? Right donw road from my aunties so is in fantastic location!
nolo - 24/Jun/06
When Iím hanging on by my finger-nails, I just donít seem to spend much time admiring the views!! For all its faults, there is a great selection of routes, itís very accessible and when the sun is out thereís plenty of space for Frisbees and barBQ.
Wal Holmes - 01/Jun/06
I must agree that the quarry is a good place to climb. And at what crag don't you get loose rock as all rock is vulnerable to weather conditions causing erosion.
MattieS - 09/May/06
i think it's a great place to climb there are just so many bolted routes at do-able grades. ok there's a fair bit of loose rock but if you're careful and wear helmets you'll be ok. it may not be beutiful and it may not be tranquil but the only time i've ever seen more climbable rock in one place was the grand canyon. in my opinion it's a great day out.
Josh - 01/Aug/05
After reading the comments above, I think there must be 2 Horseshoe quarries. In the one I go to, I have never encountered any polished routes. There are literally hundreds of good, well bolted routes in the 6a - 6c grades and even a few good trad routes. True enough, it's more like an outdoor climbing wall than a real crag, but my climbing is improving every time I go there. I'm looking forward to Pembroke in August, but I'll still keep going to Horseshoe.
Richard 261 - 26/Jun/05
Includes a gully at the left hand end of the lower tier described in On Peak Rock. "Quite Tricky, 50m"!
mad matt - 30/May/05
Been there today for the first time, i thought it was great and the sun was out.....cracking day! i know what you mean about the loose rock, bring on the adventure...............
JayJay - 12/May/05
I like it!
Adam Moroz - 18/Feb/05
There are sections of the quarry where you have to wonder "why bother?". If the BMC is to buy the quarry then serious consideration should be given as to whether some routes should be pulled down on safety grounds.
Bob - 06/Sep/04
So its not ideal, but what the hell, if you don't like, don't climb there, then it will not get so polished!!!!!!
Bob - 01/Sep/04
You might want to include a warning about loose rock and friable holds, particularly on the newer routes. Belayers should either wear a helmet or avoid standing directly below the route - or both - and even then you might not be safe!
Chris the Tall - 07/Aug/03
Well bolted but an extremely dangerous slab due to some very big loose rocks (especially on the first 2 routes from the left). If you are determined to climb there, a helmet is essential.
Antony - 16/Jul/03
Dont knock it. The best routes are good, particularly in the Legal Action to Megalithic area. Why would it be so popular if they were not? Beware some of the recent developmments though.
Harold - 24/Dec/02
I like it and most of my mates do as well, not a pretty place, but hey how many sports crags have we got? Some good routes on the top level. Stu
StuT - 08/Nov/02
A bloody awfull crag!!!! Dropped straight in the Peak from the Devil's backside. Embodies all the worst aspects of climbing, i.e. polished, badly bolted, chipped, quarried, ugly. We don't have to stoop to this....
Dave - 08/Nov/02
This place is so ugly people shouldn't be allowed to climb here.....actually I don't think you are allowed to climb here. [You are - UKC Ed.]
Stone Donkey - 08/Nov/02