Horseshoe Quarry

Climbs 315 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 260m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features

The centre of mid and lower grade sport climbing in the Peak with many good routes between 6a and 7a, and a few below. Purchased by the BMC in 2005 for the good of the nation, access is now freely allowed (with the usual caveats) and is dedicated as CROW land.


Quick drying and a good year round venue. Popular on sunny evenings. The best routes are on the Main Wall, 23m high, reasonably sound, but often sportingly bolted. Bolts and lower-offs on some routes have recently been replaced by the BMC, but this does not mean that the bolt spacing is comparable to an indoor wall. Best routes are Rain Dance (F6c+), Legal Action (F6c), Run For Your Wife (F6c+), Private Prosecution (F6c+), Litany Against Fear (F6b+), Megalithic Man (F6b+) and Shot Your Bolt (F6b+).


Sectors on either side off the Main Wall, and indeed above it on the Upper Tier, have been developed more recently and tend to be more closely bolted. However the rock tends to be less reliable, and although the BMC has undertaken some stabilization work, care should be exercised. Wearing a helmet is advisable, particularly when belaying. Nonetheless there are good routes to be found in most of the outlying areas - such as Rage (6b) and Excavator(5).


A few trad routes remain - such as Do Android Dream of Electric Sheep (E1 5c).


Up-to-the-minute topos can be found at www.sportsclimbs.co.uk

Access notes

Parking for about 12 cars at the quarry entrance, which is just off the A623 at SK 205760, 1-2km west of Stoney Middleton. Do not block the turning circle. If this is full (which it often is), drive a little further west and park in the lay-bys either side of the road. Take care walking back along the road.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone North (2015), Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), From Horseshoe to Harpur Hill (2004), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 ROUTES THAT HAVE FALLEN DOWN  
2Monkey stole my walkman6b *11
 SOUTH BAY  
4NYD6a+  
5Pig in a Poke5a 8
6Bad Boys Ink6a 24
7Unruly Behaviour6a+ 13
8Treatment6b 15
9Therapy6b+ *32
10Porgi Amor6a+ *65
11Foreign Tongues6a 49
12Gouranga6c *19
13You crack me upE1 5b 2
14MiniGrip7a+ 3
15Unhung6a+  
16The Fire Hang6b  
17Hang Fire6a  
18The Gobbler5c  
19Christmas Presence6c+  
 HEART BUTTRESS  
21Nine Eleven6a  
22Seven Eleven6b * 
23Tors Colon6c+ 2
24Vent Your Spleen7b *3
25Heart to HeartE4 6a * 
26Sliver6c+ *2
27Stomach Pump7a+ 1
28Skin Flint6b+ 1
29The Blood Bank6b 3
30Sharing Best Practice6a+ 1
31Taylor-Parkinson GullyIV 5 1
 CHOCOLATE BLANCMANGE WALL  
33Barney Rubble5c 34
34Chauvi's Slab5c *66
35Still Nacht5c 14
36Trog5a 78
37Neanderthal5c 155
38Men at Work5a 59
39The Quarrymen6a 56
40Excavator5c *320
41Slab Cake4c 138
42Spare Rib #15a 85
43The Cake Walk4a 138
44Christmas Pud4c 109
45Sago Slab4a 135
46Dream Topping4c 151
47Chocolate Blancmange Gullynone xvd 5
48Cinema RageE1 5b 1
 AFRICA BUTTRESS  
50Elizabethville6a 1
51Burundi6b  
52Townships6c+  
53Victoria Falls6b 2
54Kariba6a+ 3
55Zanzibar6b 3
56Simonstone6c+ *1
57Out of Africa6b+ 4
58Madagasca6b *18
59Bird Island6a *29
60Seychelles6b 10
61Rainbow Warrior6c *20
62Weakened Warrior6b 3
63Sam In You Eye6a+ 8
64Ring Thane6c+ 2
65Pretoria6b+  
66Mombassa6a * 
67Greenpeace6a 5
 LEFT HAND WALLS  
69During the War6a+ *30
70Before the War5a 44
71Sahara6b+ 5
72Union Jack5a 28
73African't6b+ 3
74Desperate Dan6b 5
75Fine and Dandy6b 1
76African6a+ 5
77Bloodguard6c+ 3
78Grab yer Mandrakes6b 14
79Tirfin Mandrakes6a+ 6
80Tirfin USA6a+ *50
81Tirf's High6a+ 34
82Race of the Freuds6b+ 18
83Peckling Fever5c 189
84Senter Home6a 66
85Tirf 'er Off6a+ 31
86Mail on Sunday6b *47
87Bootiful Bernard Mathews6b *17
88Nowt Taken Out6b 13
89Foul's Bane6a+ *63
90Drool Rock Worm6b 11
91Stone Throat6b *17
92Slay the Gray6b 5
93Mr. Cellulite's Arete6a+ 27
94Bandolier6a 81
95Underslung6b+  
96The Little Thin Mexican Across the Border6b *14
97Desperate Measures6b+ 14
98The Mexican takes Lexicon6a+ *91
99Exceeding the Speed Limit6b 19
100Mind Your Head6b+ 17
101Desperate Housewives6a 27
102Collared6a *161
103Spare Rib #26b 49
104Eddie McStiff6a+ 38
105Pelvic Thrust6b 52
106The Hippy Hippy Shakes6a+ 37
107Due Care and Attention6a+ 152
108Any Old Iron6a 150
109Sunday Sport6b *241
110Austin Powers6b 65
111The Big Fat Texan on the Corner6a *419
112He Seems so Sumo6a 187
113Olive Oil6a 139
114Removal Man4c 201
115Some Place6b 25
116Sag Ponir5c *379
 MAIN WALL  
118Pale Rider6a *885
119Rain Dance6c **174
120The Colostomy Finish7a 25
121Physical Fizz6c 25
122School's Out6a+ **684
123Rotund Rooley6b **459
124Wave of Mutilation7a *78
125First Day Of WinterHVS 5b *16
126Wall of Jericho6b *363
127The Leading Line6b+ *107
128Say it With Flowers6c **150
129Legal Action6c **202
130Run For Your Wife6c+ **48
131Private Prosecution6c ***200
132Litany Against Fear6c **188
133Megalithic Man6b+ **413
134Megalithic Man (Direct Finish)6c+ **48
135Poisonality7a *33
136An Ancient Rhythm6c **65
137Demolition Man7a **68
138Shot Yer Bolt6b+ **247
139Southern Man7a+ *21
140Nice Face, Shame about the Ledge6b+ *71
141Flat World7a+ *27
142Lost Monolith6b+ *36
143The French ConnectionE4 6a 1
144ConformistE2 6a 1
145Screwy DriverE1 5b 18
146Harvey Wallbanger6b 3
147Sound as a CarpE1 5b 1
148Spring AwakeningHVS 5a 14
 ANDROIDS SECTOR  
150Mutley Stole my Route Man6b 3
151Winter Fingers6b 7
152Broken to Bits6c+  
153Down to the Last6b 3
154Fragmented6c 2
155Mice Breaker6b+ 6
156Finishing off6b+ 9
157SpectophotometryE1 5b 7
15850 Bolts to the Gallon6a 89
159Like Fire Like Ice6a 16
160Like Ice, Like Fire (Trad)E1 5b *44
161Galening CrackHVS 5a **29
162CompromiseE2 5b 5
163Promises6a+ 33
164The Rottin' Word6c 6
165Decaydence6c 4
166Order Number 59E2 5c 5
167A Right Earful6a+ *119
168Clean Your Mouth Out6c+ *20
169The Dust Bunnies7a *11
170Lets Kill DillE4 6a 2
171Dalken Shield6b *59
172Hardcore! You Know the Score6b *120
173The Director's Cut6a+ *80
174Blade Runner6a+ *45
175Bruce's Bonus6b *116
176Androids DirectE1 5b *7
177Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep?E2 5c *66
178Rage6b *92
179The Running Man6b *81
180The Long Walk6c  
181The Dark Tower6b+ 8
182The Drawing of the Three6b+ 4
183Willie the Kid6a+ *62
184Calamity Jane6b+ 23
185Jeff Garrett6a+ *37
186The Dogs6b 25
187Derailed6a+ *49
188Passage of Time6b *65
 TOILET SECTOR  
190The Sewer6a+ 120
191Latrine5a 449
192Armitage6a 222
193Shanks6a 115
194Potty6a 139
195Psycho Ceramic6a+ 87
196The Bog6a *214
197Twyfords6a+ 235
198The Small Room6a+ *182
199Thomas Crapper6a *342
200Two Loos4c *255
201Montezuma's Revenge6b 146
202Latrec5a *269
203Toilet Graffiti5c 127
204Toilet Humour5a 101
205De Throne5a 119
206On Uranus6a *76
207Eau de Toilette6a 42
208Wipe it Clean6a 18
209Andrex6b 25
210Easy Come, Easy Go3 36
 UPPER TIER (WEST SIDE)  
 TOP QUARRY  
213Mickey3 12
214Minnie3 15
215Daffy4a 14
216Goofy3+ 11
217Donald3+ 11
218Pluto3+ 9
219A Tracky Little Problem4a 49
220Tracker Bar5c 4
221A Tracky Little Bleeder5a 45
222Gargle Blaster6a 263
223Uranus3+ 408
224Luke Skywalker4a *342
225Klingon4a 366
226Saturns Rings4c 239
227Vogon6a 259
228Dr. Who?6a *120
229Torchwood5c 70
230Beam me Across Scotty!5a 101
231The Libertines6b  
232Taking Liberties6c+ 4
233Statuesque6a 7
234Mucker's Wall6a+ 37
235A Fit of Peak6a+ 10
236Citizen's Arete5a 82
237Fredonia6b 3
238Drumming in a Lay-byE1 5b 1
239GreedorE2 5b *1
240The Whinger6a+ 23
241Off Limits6a+ 33
 UPPER TIER (EAST SIDE)  
243Brew Thyme6a 2
244Thyme Out6a 2
245Whats the Thyme6a 3
246Bridge Over the River Thyme5a 4
247Bit of Spare Thyme5c 3
248Fat Betty4c 10
249Take Your Thyme5c 11
250Porridge4c *16
251Crunch yer Nuts4a *18
252Soggy Bottom Boys6b+ *9
253Man of Constant Sorrow5c 26
254Big Rock Candy Mountain6a 46
255Everett's Arete5c 14
256Repulse5a 13
257Prince of Wales5c 10
258That Old DA Look4a 17
259FOP6a 19
260In The Jailhouse6a 6
261Po Lazarus5c 4
262No Way is Patience a Virtue6b *92
263O Brother Where Art Thou?6a *119
264Unnamed (Narrow Pillar)6a 6
265Dapper Dan6a *73
266Babe The Blue Axe5c 70
267Cretan6b+ 8
268Corinthian Spirit6a 28
269Theseus-Saurus6b+ 7
270It's all Greek to Me6b *25
271The Miner Tour6c+ 4
272Olympiakus6c  
273Her Aklion6c 4
274Almost There5a 37
275Into the Labyrinth6a *114
276Into the Labyrinth (Trad)E1 5b 8
277By Zeus6a+ *102
278Spiteful Rain (First Prize)5c 142
279Second Prize6a 36
280Consolation5c *91
281Tawny Owl Pie5a 53
282The Owl6c 12
283White DoveE1 5b *14
284Nullo in Mundo Pax Sincera6c+ 4
285Two Flat Whites6a+  
286Supplementary Question (Slab and Corner)4c *116
287A Liberal Smear6c 6
288Labour Relations6c+ 19
289P.M.'s Question TimeE3 6a 4
290Booker Prize6a+ *55
291Sir Pryze6a+ *107
292Oy Missus6c+ 4
293Mr. Blue Sky7a *17
294Esso BlueHVS 5b 6
295Smoke Gets in Your Eyes6c *18
296Shell Super6c 1
297Esso ExtraE1 5b 3
298Mumble Jumble7a *4
299Fargo6a+ 36
300Blue Sunday6b *38
301Do It Yourself6b+ 4
302New Bolts And Yankees6a 16
303Kushti6a+ 29
304Lovely Bubbly6c+ 4
305Slabby but Nice6a *74
306Sam And Mary5a 10
307Ma Marmalade6a+ 7
308Slam the Jam6a *59
309Jam Slice6b 4
310Don't Try This at Home6c+ 1
311Red Rum5c 9
312NijinskiE2 5b *20
313Seated MoonE2 5b **4
314The Party Animal6b *30
315Cafť BleuE3 6a 10
316Dinky ToyE4 6b 6
317Corgi Registered6b 4
318Hornby6a+ 4
 DOODAH BUTTRESS  
320Ol' Dirty BastardE3 5c 1
321Monster TraverseE3 6a **3
322Hot ZippertyHVS 5a 2
 NEW, UNKNOWN OR DUPLICATES  
324A Serial Affair 6b 2
325First Prize5c  
326The Soggy6b  
327Spare Rib6b 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris the Tall

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Had a cracking day climbing here 21/04/14 round the toilet area, had no problems with rock falling off! The climbs were in good condition!
sam_whitehouse - 21/Apr/14
Climbed some lines on the slabs at the far end of the quarry on Saturday. A massive flake came off in my hands and split on the way down causing a chunk to hit my partners head. It has cracked her helmet and caused a slight head injury. I would seriously advise not to go up on here even if the lower grades are tempting as my piece wasn't the only piece that fell off!
Rhi Rhi - 22/Apr/13
Climbed a couple of lines on Guoranga Buttress Saturday and suggest avoiding them. It's all very loose and after doing a route we moved elsewhere for fear of doing more damage to the rock!
seanraby - 07/May/12
went there thursday last week and tuesday this week. did most of the 4+ on the slabs. good routes although the ground underneath is very eroded so be careful. Did latrine and removal man which were really good routes. good venue.
danimal - 10/Feb/11
Doodah Buttress is the short wall to the right of the upper tier. In the 1986 Stoney guide, but none of the more recent ones. Classics(?) include Pot-washer's wall (HVS 5b*) and Hot Zipperty (HVS 5a*). Rumour has it that this area has also been used for dry-tooling
Chris the Tall - 29/Oct/10
i just wanted to say thank you to the four guys who helped me on the 28-05-2010. i realy apreciate everything you did for me, from packing my gear to carrying it all out for me. but most of all for comforting clare while i was being treated. your a lovely bunch and i hope our paths will cross again someday, hopefully under better circumstances. best regards too you and a top venue. mike. no broken bones
mike-a-walton - 31/May/10
Horseshoe was one of the first of the peak district quarries to be developed to cater for the growing need of lower grade (sub 7s) sport climbing. It's amazing the place now sports over 250 routes although the quality of the vast majority of these is fairly poor. The crag is popular mainly because there are few other sport crags around that have many routes in the sixes and below. Being a disused quarry it's not exactly the most aesthetic place to climb but it's got a sunny aspect and it's far enough from the main road to at least be quiet. The main wall is by far the best part of the crag. The routes here lack natural lines: most are just blank walls linking up small features between the horizontal breaks. But good rock and interesting, and sometimes very technical climbing, more than make up for that. The bolts are in good condition, well placed and sometimes spaced far enough apart to add a little bit of excitement to the climbing too. If 6c is your grade Horseshoe has a handful of decent routes that make a visit definitely worthwhile.
stp - 19/Oct/09
i went last saturday , for my fisrt ever sport climbing day, apart from nearly pulling the routes off and leaving just a wall of soil, it was good, but it seemed as the routes get harder, it gets more polished, its a good crag but just needs a bit of getting used to. Ill be going back soon.
Liam Copley - 01/Jun/08
I agree with Wal's comments. But please don't light a bleedin' BBQ while people are climbing. There are so many varying sport routes here and still some excellent trad routes. I must have been here a dozen times over the last couple of years and tomorrow I'm going again cos it might be showery and it's easy to get off if you get caught in the rain - also there's nearly always something dry at Horseshoe if it's wet everywhere else.
Richard 261 - 09/Nov/07
Visited horseshoe for the first time on Sun 10 Jun 07 - after almost being put off by the earlier comments posted here. So glad I went! What a great sports climbing location! More than a hundred well bolted routes from 4 to 7, sheltered site, sun trap, tidy, no graffiti, no litter, easy access. What more could you want?
skyhigh269 - 11/Jun/07
Suitable for beginners/bottom-ropeing??? Right donw road from my aunties so is in fantastic location!
nolo - 24/Jun/06
When Iím hanging on by my finger-nails, I just donít seem to spend much time admiring the views!! For all its faults, there is a great selection of routes, itís very accessible and when the sun is out thereís plenty of space for Frisbees and barBQ.
Wal Holmes - 01/Jun/06
I must agree that the quarry is a good place to climb. And at what crag don't you get loose rock as all rock is vulnerable to weather conditions causing erosion.
MattieS - 09/May/06
i think it's a great place to climb there are just so many bolted routes at do-able grades. ok there's a fair bit of loose rock but if you're careful and wear helmets you'll be ok. it may not be beutiful and it may not be tranquil but the only time i've ever seen more climbable rock in one place was the grand canyon. in my opinion it's a great day out.
Josh - 01/Aug/05
After reading the comments above, I think there must be 2 Horseshoe quarries. In the one I go to, I have never encountered any polished routes. There are literally hundreds of good, well bolted routes in the 6a - 6c grades and even a few good trad routes. True enough, it's more like an outdoor climbing wall than a real crag, but my climbing is improving every time I go there. I'm looking forward to Pembroke in August, but I'll still keep going to Horseshoe.
Richard 261 - 26/Jun/05
Includes a gully at the left hand end of the lower tier described in On Peak Rock. "Quite Tricky, 50m"!
mad matt - 30/May/05
Been there today for the first time, i thought it was great and the sun was out.....cracking day! i know what you mean about the loose rock, bring on the adventure...............
JayJay - 12/May/05
I like it!
Adam Moroz - 18/Feb/05
There are sections of the quarry where you have to wonder "why bother?". If the BMC is to buy the quarry then serious consideration should be given as to whether some routes should be pulled down on safety grounds.
Bob - 06/Sep/04
So its not ideal, but what the hell, if you don't like, don't climb there, then it will not get so polished!!!!!!
Bob - 01/Sep/04
You might want to include a warning about loose rock and friable holds, particularly on the newer routes. Belayers should either wear a helmet or avoid standing directly below the route - or both - and even then you might not be safe!
Chris the Tall - 07/Aug/03
Well bolted but an extremely dangerous slab due to some very big loose rocks (especially on the first 2 routes from the left). If you are determined to climb there, a helmet is essential.
Antony - 16/Jul/03
Dont knock it. The best routes are good, particularly in the Legal Action to Megalithic area. Why would it be so popular if they were not? Beware some of the recent developmments though.
Harold - 24/Dec/02
I like it and most of my mates do as well, not a pretty place, but hey how many sports crags have we got? Some good routes on the top level. Stu
StuT - 08/Nov/02
A bloody awfull crag!!!! Dropped straight in the Peak from the Devil's backside. Embodies all the worst aspects of climbing, i.e. polished, badly bolted, chipped, quarried, ugly. We don't have to stoop to this....
Dave - 08/Nov/02
This place is so ugly people shouldn't be allowed to climb here.....actually I don't think you are allowed to climb here. [You are - UKC Ed.]
Stone Donkey - 08/Nov/02