Gammon Head

Climbs 10 – Rocktype Schist – Altitude Tidal – Faces S

Crag features


An impressive cliff in a beautiful location. The rock is a little fragile but in a predictable way. The most striking feature of the crag is the huge corner line of Mental Block (E5 6a ***) and its impressive right wall Lord of the Prawns E6/7 ***.

Approach notes

As for Elender Cove until above the beach. Beyond the cove there is a rocky spur jutting seaward. Follow the path until atop it then continue along a thin track which follows the ridge to reach a rocky outcrop. Descend diagonally LWs down the steep seaward slope (beyond the outcrop) to another outcrop above the sea. This is the top of the crag. Either abseil in , or zigzag down the grassy cwm on the right.

Access notes

Cracked Arete to Gentle Arete are barely tidal but low to mid tide is required for the other routes.

South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Cracked AreteVD 1
2Cracked WallS 4a 1
3The Esoteric ApprenticeVS 4c 2
4Battle of the BulgeE2 5c 1
5Gentle AreteE1 5a *1
6Razor-backE1 5a 1
7Mental BlockE5 6a *** 
8Lord of the PrawnsE7 6b ***3
9MeatheadE2 5b  
10Sow SeanceVD  
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