New Mills Torrs

Climbs 106 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 120m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
A continuous quarried face some 200m long and up to 22m high set in an impressive narrow gorge, popular with local walkers. Rock generally good, steep/overhanging with square cut holds. Sheltered during rain. Routes mainly HVS and above. Well worth a visit, especially if you're rained off a more exposed moorland edge in the area. Best routes are Alcove Crack (HVS 5a), King of the Swingers (E1 5b), The Arete (E2 5b), Electric Circus (E2 5b), Bionics Wall (E4 6a), and Hallelujah Chorus (E5 6b).

There's also some excellent bouldering with long traverses of the left-hand crag (V2) and the Viaduct Wall (V2 and V7 at different heights).

[Mod's note: the pin on the googleMap can't be placed right on the crag. It's about 100 m west of the pin.]

Approach notes
From New Mills (9 miles SE of Stockport just off the A6) follow signs to 'The Tors' (5 min); or from New Mills Central bus station or train station follow signs for the Millenium walkway bridge - the crag is just beyond.

Alternatively park on Albion Road, walk down Jodrell Street and down the long ramp from the Rock Inn and you'll see the crag in front of you.

The best post-crag pubs are the Rock Inn on Torr Vale Road (nice beer garden when sunny) or the Beehive on Albion Road. The best chippy is the one on Market Street in the town centre and the best cafe is Llamedos, further up Market Street.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Peak Bouldering (2014), Over the Moors (2012), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Western Grit (2009), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Basic AreteE1 5b 12
3The StorkE1 5c 2
4Alcove CrackHVS 5a ***354
5Sunny Dayf6C 5
6Alcove Traversef5+ 24
7Like a Ship without an Anchor, like a Slave without a ChainE4 6b *3
8The SandmanE1 5b 8
954E5 6b  
10Soiled GoodsE2 5c 11
11Porky's Wall Left-handf6A 16
12Porky's WallHVS 5c 46
13Porky's Wall Right-handf5+ 11
14Piggy's CrackVS 4c *151
15The SteepleHVS 5a 60
16Clotted CreamVS 4c 30
18Trinity CrackE1 4c 1
19NutshrinkerE3 6a **4
20The AreteE3 5b *36
21Siege TacticsE4 6b **3
22UltimatumE3 6a **13
23Mather CrackE2 5b **173
24GruntiesE3 6a * 
25Electric CircusE3 5c ***121
26Short CircuitE4 6a 16
27Oak Tree WallE3 5c 6
28Worthy of Some StrainE3 6b  
29Grim Reaper Traversef6A+ **35
30Grim Reaper Directf7B 3
31The Grim ReaperE5 6b *5
32TransformationHVS 4c 21
33Sandy Aretef6A+ 15
34SandboxE3 5b 2
35Mortf7C+ *1
36Stonewall CrackHVS 5a 18
38The PoiseE2 5c **9
39ConfusionVS 4b 14
40Drank On SaturdayHVS 5a 9
41Drunken SundayS 4a 25
42The FlakeVS 4b *79
43SlapE2 5c 6
44The FoundlingVS 4c 41
45The Overlooked GrooveHS 4b 102
46The InbetweenieVS 4c 26
47Original RouteVD 3c *178
48Cracked CornerHS 4b *209
49Viaduct CrackHVS 5b *129
50Viaduct Crack Startf4+ 13
51HazeE1 5c 10
52Viaduct Eliminatef6A+ 31
53Viaduct Eliminate Extensionf6C+ 7
54Viaduct WallE2 5c *79
55Viaduct Wall StartV1 4c 33
56Honcho Leftf6C 15
57HonchoE4 6b *83
58Honcho Startf6B **65
59Honcho Right-handf6B 18
60MachiavelliE2 5c * 
61DeceptionHVS 5a 89
62Deception to Original routeV1 5b 74
64The Redemption of a Grit Pegging AntichristE3 5c *6
65Bionic's Wall Low Leftf6C+ **5
66Bionic's Low Left Right Hand Finishf7A+ **8
67Bionic's Wall DirectV3 **91
68Bionic's Direct Low Startf6B *26
69Bionic's Direct Sit StartV5 *4
70Bionic Manf7C  
71Bionic's WallE4 6a ***65
72Bionics Wall Rightf6B+ 21
73Bionics Right - high finishf7A 1
74Hallelujah ChorusE5 6b **8
75Hallelujah Startf4 19
76Bionics TraverseV7 12
77Heavy DutyE2 5b *27
78King of the SwingersE1 5b **37
79Rain Gamesf7B *1
80The Low GirdleV6 *22
81The Low Low GirdleV7 1
83The Thin End of the Hedge6a *54
84This is Not Cheedale6b *20
85The Price of Admission6a+ 42
86Revenge Of The Grit Bolting Antichrist6b 7
87Welcome To Portland (Oregon)6c 35
88Evolution or Outrage?7a *16
89The Girlfriend6b+ 29
90Have You Ever Been Up Everest, Mister?6c 19
91The Beginning of the End6a 71
93Yeah, Whatever6a+ 16
94Come Down This Instant!6b *9
95My Plan For World Domination6b+ *2
97The Bridge TraverseV2 5c ***47
98Viaduct wall Eliminate 1V2 5c 9
99Viaduct Wall Eliminate 2V3 6a 6
100Half Tor TraverseV1 5b *12
101JengaE1 4c *1
102Viaduct Wall Traversef5 40
103Hallelujuh AreteV5 6b 5
104Tectonic TraverseV7 6c **3
105Hallaleujah CrackV2 5c *7
106Vegetable FlakeVS 4c 2
107Revolution Action6a+ *27
108Big Smegg Sport ClimbE5 6a *1
109PumpernickelE3 5c **1
110Glass CeilingE1 5b *1
111Career TemptationHVS 5a 2
112Dog Bin CrackHVS 5a  
113Alcove Traverse Low Versionf6B *1
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer MischaHY

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Some lower off's have appeared on bionics wall.
angus - 21/Nov/14
Could someone give me an idea of where the line 'Worthy of some strain E3/6b goes? Is it left or right of Grim Reaper?
MischaHY - 11/Nov/13
On the viaduct pillar? They are in the BMC 'Over The Moors Guidebook' and listed here on UKC under the 'Viaduct Pillar' and 'Riverside Pillar' headings. I have just updated the climbs according to the guidebook.
David Kay - 15/Jul/13
Anybody know the name of the routes on the bridge its self?
m88ulv - 15/Jul/13
Great to see so many climbers out on the viaduct and also bouldering/climbing the rock face - for those that don't know the town there are several pubs, cafes, shops and a Heritage Centre up the steps to the side of the rock face, they are dog, cycle and climber friendly - thanks.
visitnewmills - 31/Mar/13
Hi, What's the route to the right of Evolution or Outrage?
rustaldo - 17/Nov/12
I'm away until the end of the month, but will try and update the rest of the climbs when I get back.
David Kay - 04/Aug/12
Recently took over moderation for this crag. I've rearranged the climbs/buttresses a bit to hopefully make it a bit easier to understand. There's still a bit to do - need to get hold of an over the moors guide for a more definitive list of climbs. Looks like there might be a couple of duplicates or climbs
David Kay - 02/Aug/12
10 shiny new well bolted lines on the bridge parapet should entice a few more down here. As part of the Torrs Riverside Park, the place is now being looked after by a combination of the town council and the local climbing club - The Mynydd.
Normclimber - 03/Sep/11
There are some good routes here, but beware of loose rock and, er, hypodermic needles. Yes, someone dislodged one of these from the top of a route today and it missed his belayer by a few feet.
PeteH - 01/May/10
the flake mid way up the orgional route is dangerously loose!
hiu068 - 22/Dec/07
Might be worth knowing how to abseil before attending this crag! All in all its a nice little place, dry mostly when everywhere else is wet, just keep an eye on the baggage! Im convinced the older folk where eyeing up my trainers at the bottom of the climb! However its a nice place, gear is pretty sparce at the top. Give it a go!
Jimbo MSider - 23/Feb/07