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These details were last updated on 10/Dec/2013

New Mills Torrs

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 101 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 120m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
A continuous quarried face some 200m long and up to 22m high set in an impressive narrow gorge, popular with local walkers. Rock generally good, steep/overhanging with square cut holds. Sheltered during rain. Routes mainly HVS and above. Well worth a visit, especially if you're rained off a more exposed moorland edge in the area. Best routes are Alcove Crack (HVS 5a), King of the Swingers (E1 5b), The Arete (E2 5b), Electric Circus (E2 5b), Bionics Wall (E4 6a), and Hallelujah Chorus (E5 6b).

There's also some excellent bouldering with long traverses of the left-hand crag (V2) and the Viaduct Wall (V2 and V7 at different heights).

[Mod's note: the pin on the googleMap can't be placed right on the crag. It's about 100 m west of the pin.]

Weather forecast

 Today  Tue  Wed  Thu  Fri 

0.4mm rain
Sun
12 °C
26 kph

5.2mm rain
Cloudy
12 °C
15 kph

3.3mm rain
Cloudy
13 °C
18 kph

0.3mm rain
Sun
12 °C
11 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
10 °C
14 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Over the Moors (2012), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Western Grit (2009), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 THE ALCOVE  
2Basic AreteE1 5b 9
3The StorkE1 5c 2
4Alcove CrackHVS 5a ***278
5Sunny Dayf6C 2
6Alcove Traversef5+ 13
7Like a Ship without an Anchor, like a Slave without a ChainE4 6b *2
8The SandmanE1 5b 3
954E5 6b  
10Soiled GoodsE2 5c 9
11Porky's Wall Left-handf6A 9
12Porky's WallHVS 5c 36
13Porky's Wall Right-handf5+ 4
14Piggy's CrackVS 4c *122
15The SteepleHVS 5a 51
16Clotted CreamVS 4c 27
 ELECTRIC CIRCUS  
18Trinity CrackE1 4c 1
19NutshrinkerE3 6a **3
20The AreteE3 5b *27
21UltimatumE3 6a **9
22Mather CrackE2 5b **132
23Electric CircusE3 5c ***88
24Short CircuitE3 5c 12
25Oak Tree WallE3 5c 5
26Worthy of Some StrainE3 6b  
27Grim Reaper Traversef6A+ **21
28Grim Reaper Directf7B 3
29The Grim ReaperE5 6b *3
30TransformationHVS 4c 18
31Sandy Aretef6A+ 7
32SandboxE3 5b 1
33Mortf7C+ *1
34Stonewall CrackHVS 5a 16
 VIADUCT WALL  
36The PoiseE2 5c **6
37ConfusionVS 4b 11
38Drank On SaturdayHVS 5a 6
39Drunken SundayS 4a 19
40The FlakeVS 4b *64
41SlapE2 5c 3
42The FoundlingVS 4c 28
43The Overlooked GrooveS 4b 87
44The InbetweenieVS 4c 23
45Original RouteVD 3c *155
46Cracked CornerHS 4b *184
47Viaduct CrackHVS 5b *104
48Viaduct Crack Startf4+ 8
49HazeE1 5c 7
50Viaduct Eliminatef6A+ 20
51Viaduct Eliminate Extensionf6C+ 4
52Viaduct WallE2 5c *69
53Viaduct Wall StartV1 4c 24
54Honcho Leftf6C 11
 Climb nameGradex
55HonchoE4 6b *65
56Honcho Startf6B **50
57Honcho Right-handf6B 10
58DeceptionHVS 5a 80
59Deception to Original routeV1 5b 56
 BIONIC'S WALL  
61The Redemption of a Grit Pegging AntichristE3 5c *6
62Bionic's Wall Low Leftf6C+ **5
63Bionic's Low Left Right Hand Finishf7A+ **8
64Bionic's Wall DirectV3 **77
65Bionic's Direct Low Startf6B *20
66Bionic's Direct Sit StartV5 *3
67Bionic Manf7C  
68Bionic's WallE4 6a ***45
69Bionics Wall Rightf6B+ 18
70Bionics Right - high finishf7A 1
71Hallelujah ChorusE5 6b **6
72Hallelujah Startf4 13
73Bionics TraverseV7 12
74Heavy DutyE2 5b *21
75King of the SwingersE1 5b **31
76Rain Gamesf7B *1
77The Low GirdleV6 *22
78The Low Low GirdleV7 1
 VIADUCT PILLAR  
80The Thin End of the Hedge6a *32
81This is Not Cheedale6b *15
82The Price of Admission6a+ 14
83Revenge Of The Grit Bolting Antichrist6b 4
84Welcome To Portland (Oregon)6c 24
85Evolution or Outrage?7a *11
86The Girlfriend6b+ 18
87Have You Ever Been Up Everest, Mister?6c 15
88The Beginning of the End6a 54
 RIVERSIDE PILLAR  
90Yeah, Whatever6a+ 11
91Come Down This Instant!6b *6
92My Plan For World Domination6b+ *2
 ELIMINATE PROBLEMS  
94The Bridge TraverseV2 5c ***38
95Viaduct wall Eliminate 1V2 5c 7
96Viaduct Wall Eliminate 2V3 6a 6
97Half Tor TraverseV1 5b *10
98JengaE1 4c * 
99Viaduct Wall Traversef5 19
100Hallelujuh AreteV5 6b 4
101Tectonic TraverseV7 6c **3
102Hallaleujah CrackV2 5c *6
103Vegetable FlakeVS 4c 1
104Revolution Action6a+ *24
105Big Smegg Sport ClimbE5 6a *1
106PumpernickelE3 5c **1
107Glass CeilingE1 5b *1
108Career TemptationHVS 5a 1
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Access notes
From New Mills (9 miles SE of Stockport just off the A6) follow signs to 'The Tors' (5 min); or from New Mills Central bus station or train station follow signs for the Millenium walkway bridge - the crag is just beyond.

Alternatively park on Albion Road, walk down Jodrell Street and down the long ramp from the Rock Inn and you'll see the crag in front of you.

The best post-crag pubs are the Rock Inn on Torr Vale Road (nice beer garden when sunny) or the Beehive on Albion Road. The best chippy is the one on Market Street in the town centre and the best cafe is Llamedos, further up Market Street.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer MischaHY

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Could someone give me an idea of where the line 'Worthy of some strain E3/6b goes? Is it left or right of Grim Reaper?
MischaHY - 11/Nov/13

On the viaduct pillar? They are in the BMC 'Over The Moors Guidebook' and listed here on UKC under the 'Viaduct Pillar' and 'Riverside Pillar' headings. I have just updated the climbs according to the guidebook.
David Kay - 15/Jul/13

Anybody know the name of the routes on the bridge its self?
m88ulv - 15/Jul/13

Great to see so many climbers out on the viaduct and also bouldering/climbing the rock face - for those that don't know the town there are several pubs, cafes, shops and a Heritage Centre up the steps to the side of the rock face, they are dog, cycle and climber friendly - thanks.
visitnewmills - 31/Mar/13

Hi, What's the route to the right of Evolution or Outrage?
rustaldo - 17/Nov/12

I'm away until the end of the month, but will try and update the rest of the climbs when I get back.
David Kay - 04/Aug/12

Recently took over moderation for this crag. I've rearranged the climbs/buttresses a bit to hopefully make it a bit easier to understand. There's still a bit to do - need to get hold of an over the moors guide for a more definitive list of climbs. Looks like there might be a couple of duplicates or climbs
David Kay - 02/Aug/12

10 shiny new well bolted lines on the bridge parapet should entice a few more down here. As part of the Torrs Riverside Park, the place is now being looked after by a combination of the town council and the local climbing club - The Mynydd.
Normclimber - 03/Sep/11

There are some good routes here, but beware of loose rock and, er, hypodermic needles. Yes, someone dislodged one of these from the top of a route today and it missed his belayer by a few feet.
PeteH - 01/May/10

the flake mid way up the orgional route is dangerously loose!
hiu068 - 22/Dec/07

Might be worth knowing how to abseil before attending this crag! All in all its a nice little place, dry mostly when everywhere else is wet, just keep an eye on the baggage! Im convinced the older folk where eyeing up my trainers at the bottom of the climb! However its a nice place, gear is pretty sparce at the top. Give it a go!
Jimbo MSider - 23/Feb/07