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These details were last updated on 13/Jul/2012

New Mills Torrs

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 94 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 120m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
A continuous quarried face some 200m long and up to 22m high set in an impressive narrow gorge, popular with local walkers. Rock generally good, steep/overhanging with square cut holds. Sheltered during rain. Routes mainly HVS and above. Well worth a visit, especially if you're rained off a more exposed moorland edge in the area. Best routes are Alcove Crack (HVS 5a), King of the Swingers (E1 5b), The Arete (E2 5b), Electric Circus (E2 5b), Bionics Wall (E3 6a), and Hallelujah Chorus (E5 6b).

There's also some excellent bouldering with long traverses of the left-hand crag (V2) and the Viaduct Wall (V2 and V7 at different heights).

[Mod's note: the pin on the googleMap can't be placed right on the crag. It's about 100 m west of the pin.]

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 
     
Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Over the Moors (2012), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Western Grit (2009), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 THE ALCOVE  
2Basic AreteE1 5b 9
3The StorkE1 5c 1
4Alcove CrackHVS 5a ***239
5Alcove Traversefont 5+ 9
6Like a Ship without an Anchor, like a Slave without a ChainE4 6b *2
7The SandmanE1 5b 2
854E5 6b  
9Soiled GoodsE2 5c 6
10Porky's Wall Left Handf6A 6
11Porky's WallHVS 5c 32
12Porky's Wall Right-Handfont 5+ 3
13Piggy's CrackVS 4c *108
14The SteepleHVS 5a 46
15Clotted CreamVS 4c 21
 ELECTRIC CIRCUS  
17Trinity CrackE1 4c  
18NutshrinkerE4 6a ** 
19The AreteE3 5b *26
20UltimatumE3 6a **7
21Mather CrackE2 5b **108
22Electric CircusE3 5c ***67
23Short CircuitE3 5c 10
24Oak Tree WallE3 5c 4
25Worthy of Some StrainE3 6b  
26Grim Reaper Traversef6A+ **16
27Grim Reaper Directf7B 1
28The Grim ReaperE5 6b *2
29TransformationHVS 4c 16
30Sandy Aretef6A+ 5
31Stonewall CrackHVS 5a 14
 VIADUCT WALL  
33The PoiseE2 5c **3
34ConfusionVS 4b 9
35Drank On SaturdayHVS 5a 5
36Drunken SundayS 4a 15
37The FlakeVS 4b *57
38SlapE2 5c 3
39The FoundlingVS 4c 21
40The Overlooked GrooveS 4b 77
41The InbetweenieVS 4c 19
42Original RouteVD 3c *132
43Cracked CornerHS 4b *169
44Viaduct CrackHVS 5b *96
45Viaduct Crack Startfont 4+ 5
46HazeE1 5c 6
47Viaduct Eliminatef6A+ 7
48Viaduct Eliminate Extensionf6C+ 1
49Viaduct WallE2 5c *63
50Viaduct Wall StartV1 4c 18
51Honcho Leftf6C 6
 Climb nameGradex
52HonchoE4 6b *53
53Honcho Startf6B **36
54Honcho Right Handf6B 7
55DeceptionHVS 5a 73
56Deception to Original routeV1 5b 43
 BIONIC'S WALL  
58The Redemption of a Grit Pegging AntichristE3 5c *3
59Bionic's Low Leftf6C+ **3
60Bionic's Low Left Right Hand Finishf7A+ **3
61Bionic's DirectV3 **55
62Bionic's Direct Low Startf6B *13
63Bionic's Direct Sit StartV5 *3
64Bionic Manf7C  
65Bionic's WallE4 6a ***32
66Bionic's Rightf6B+ 13
67Hallelujah ChorusE5 6b **4
68Hallelujah Startfont 4 8
69Heavy DutyE2 5b *15
70King of the SwingersE1 5b **26
71The Low GirdleV6 *21
72The Low Low GirdleV7 1
 VIADUCT PILLAR  
74Beginning Of The End6a *38
75The Girlfriend6b+ 14
76Evolution or Outrage?7a *8
77Welcome To Portland (Oregon)6c 17
78Revenge Of The Grit Bolting Antichrist6b 3
79Revolution Action6a+ *20
80The Thin End6b **16
81Unnamed as yet6a+ 8
82Route 86b+ *4
 RIVERSIDE PILLAR  
84Riverside pillar AreteProject 7
85Riverside pillar left handProject 4
86Riverside pillar right handProject 1
 ELIMINATE PROBLEMS  
88The Bridge TraverseV2 5c ***35
89Viaduct wall Eliminate 1V2 5c 6
90Viaduct Wall Eliminate 2V3 6a 6
91Half Tor TraverseV1 5b *10
92JengaE1 4c * 
93Bionics Low TraverseV7 10
94Viaduct Wall Traversefont 5 14
95Hallelujuh AreteV5 6b 3
96Tectonic TraverseV7 6c **3
97Hallaleujah CrackV2 5c *6
98Vegetable FlakeVS 4c 1
99Sunny Dayf6C 2
100The Price Admission *6a+ *2
101This Is Not Cheedale *6b 7

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
From New Mills (9 miles SE of Stockport just off the A6) follow signs to 'The Tors' (5 min); or from New Mills Central bus station or train station follow signs for the Millenium walkway bridge - the crag is just beyond.

Alternatively park on Albion Road, walk down Jodrell Street and down the long ramp from the Rock Inn and you'll see the crag in front of you.

The best post-crag pubs are the Rock Inn on Torr Vale Road (nice beer garden when sunny) or the Beehive on Albion Road. The best chippy is the one on Market Street in the town centre and the best cafe is Llamedos, further up Market Street.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer David Kay ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Great to see so many climbers out on the viaduct and also bouldering/climbing the rock face - for those that don't know the town there are several pubs, cafes, shops and a Heritage Centre up the steps to the side of the rock face, they are dog, cycle and climber friendly - thanks.
visitnewmills ? - 31/Mar/13

Hi, What's the route to the right of Evolution or Outrage?
rustaldo ? - 17/Nov/12

I'm away until the end of the month, but will try and update the rest of the climbs when I get back.
David Kay ? - 04/Aug/12

Recently took over moderation for this crag. I've rearranged the climbs/buttresses a bit to hopefully make it a bit easier to understand. There's still a bit to do - need to get hold of an over the moors guide for a more definitive list of climbs. Looks like there might be a couple of duplicates or climbs
David Kay ? - 02/Aug/12

10 shiny new well bolted lines on the bridge parapet should entice a few more down here. As part of the Torrs Riverside Park, the place is now being looked after by a combination of the town council and the local climbing club - The Mynydd.
Normclimber ? - 03/Sep/11

There are some good routes here, but beware of loose rock and, er, hypodermic needles. Yes, someone dislodged one of these from the top of a route today and it missed his belayer by a few feet.
PeteH ? - 01/May/10

the flake mid way up the orgional route is dangerously loose!
hiu068 - 22/Dec/07

Might be worth knowing how to abseil before attending this crag! All in all its a nice little place, dry mostly when everywhere else is wet, just keep an eye on the baggage! Im convinced the older folk where eyeing up my trainers at the bottom of the climb! However its a nice place, gear is pretty sparce at the top. Give it a go!
Jimbo MSider - 23/Feb/07