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New Mills Torrs Derbyshire, ENGLAND
Climbs 94 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 120m a.s.l – Faces S
A continuous quarried face some 200m long and up to 22m high set in an impressive narrow gorge, popular with local walkers. Rock generally good, steep/overhanging with square cut holds. Sheltered during rain. Routes mainly HVS and above. Well worth a visit, especially if you're rained off a more exposed moorland edge in the area. Best routes are Alcove Crack (HVS 5a), King of the Swingers (E1 5b), The Arete (E2 5b), Electric Circus (E2 5b), Bionics Wall (E3 6a), and Hallelujah Chorus (E5 6b).
There's also some excellent bouldering with long traverses of the left-hand crag (V2) and the Viaduct Wall (V2 and V7 at different heights).
[Mod's note: the pin on the googleMap can't be placed right on the crag. It's about 100 m west of the pin.]
Over the Moors (2012), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Western Grit (2009), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003)
Climbs at this crag
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
From New Mills (9 miles SE of Stockport just off the A6) follow signs to 'The Tors' (5 min); or from New Mills Central bus station or train station follow signs for the Millenium walkway bridge - the crag is just beyond.
Alternatively park on Albion Road, walk down Jodrell Street and down the long ramp from the Rock Inn and you'll see the crag in front of you.
The best post-crag pubs are the Rock Inn on Torr Vale Road (nice beer garden when sunny) or the Beehive on Albion Road. The best chippy is the one on Market Street in the town centre and the best cafe is Llamedos, further up Market Street.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer David Kay
Great to see so many climbers out on the viaduct and also bouldering/climbing the rock face - for those that don't know the town there are several pubs, cafes, shops and a Heritage Centre up the steps to the side of the rock face, they are dog, cycle and climber friendly - thanks.
visitnewmills - 31/Mar/13
What's the route to the right of Evolution or Outrage?
rustaldo - 17/Nov/12
I'm away until the end of the month, but will try and update the rest of the climbs when I get back.
David Kay - 04/Aug/12
Recently took over moderation for this crag. I've rearranged the climbs/buttresses a bit to hopefully make it a bit easier to understand. There's still a bit to do - need to get hold of an over the moors guide for a more definitive list of climbs. Looks like there might be a couple of duplicates or climbs
David Kay - 02/Aug/12
10 shiny new well bolted lines on the bridge parapet should entice a few more down here. As part of the Torrs Riverside Park, the place is now being looked after by a combination of the town council and the local climbing club - The Mynydd.
Normclimber - 03/Sep/11
There are some good routes here, but beware of loose rock and, er, hypodermic needles. Yes, someone dislodged one of these from the top of a route today and it missed his belayer by a few feet.
PeteH - 01/May/10
the flake mid way up the orgional route is dangerously loose!
hiu068 - 22/Dec/07
Might be worth knowing how to abseil before attending this crag! All in all its a nice little place, dry mostly when everywhere else is wet, just keep an eye on the baggage! Im convinced the older folk where eyeing up my trainers at the bottom of the climb! However its a nice place, gear is pretty sparce at the top. Give it a go!
Jimbo MSider - 23/Feb/07