Climbs 106
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 120m a.s.l
Faces S

New Mills Torrs, view from the Riverside Pillar. © stoo2k

Crag features

A continuous quarried face some 200m long and up to 22m high set in an impressive narrow gorge, popular with local walkers. Rock generally good, steep/overhanging with square cut holds. Sheltered during rain. Routes mainly HVS and above. Well worth a visit, especially if you're rained off a more exposed moorland edge in the area. Best routes are Alcove Crack (HVS 5a), King of the Swingers (E1 5b), The Arete (E2 5b), Electric Circus (E2 5b), Bionics Wall (E4 6a), and Hallelujah Chorus (E5 6b).

There's also some excellent bouldering with long traverses of the left-hand crag (V2) and the Viaduct Wall (V2 and V7 at different heights).

[Mod's note: the pin on the googleMap can't be placed right on the crag. It's about 100 m west of the pin.]

Approach notes

From New Mills (9 miles SE of Stockport just off the A6) follow signs to 'The Tors' (5 min); or from New Mills Central bus station or train station follow signs for the Millenium walkway bridge - the crag is just beyond.

Alternatively park on Albion Road, walk down Jodrell Street and down the long ramp from the Rock Inn and you'll see the crag in front of you.

The best post-crag pubs are the Rock Inn on Torr Vale Road (nice beer garden when sunny) or the Beehive on Albion Road. The best chippy is the one on Market Street in the town centre and the best cafe is Llamedos, further up Market Street.


Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Over the Moors (2012)
Peak District: Bouldering (2011)
On Peak Rock (2003)
Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990)

Out of print:
Some lower off's have appeared on bionics wall.
angus - 21/Nov/14
Could someone give me an idea of where the line 'Worthy of some strain E3/6b goes? Is it left or right of Grim Reaper?
MischaHY - 11/Nov/13
On the viaduct pillar? They are in the BMC 'Over The Moors Guidebook' and listed here on UKC under the 'Viaduct Pillar' and 'Riverside Pillar' headings. I have just updated the climbs according to the guidebook.
David Kay - 15/Jul/13
Anybody know the name of the routes on the bridge its self?
m88ulv - 15/Jul/13
Great to see so many climbers out on the viaduct and also bouldering/climbing the rock face - for those that don't know the town there are several pubs, cafes, shops and a Heritage Centre up the steps to the side of the rock face, they are dog, cycle and climber friendly - thanks.
visitnewmills - 31/Mar/13
Hi, What's the route to the right of Evolution or Outrage?
rustaldo - 17/Nov/12
I'm away until the end of the month, but will try and update the rest of the climbs when I get back.
David Kay - 04/Aug/12
Recently took over moderation for this crag. I've rearranged the climbs/buttresses a bit to hopefully make it a bit easier to understand. There's still a bit to do - need to get hold of an over the moors guide for a more definitive list of climbs. Looks like there might be a couple of duplicates or climbs
David Kay - 02/Aug/12
10 shiny new well bolted lines on the bridge parapet should entice a few more down here. As part of the Torrs Riverside Park, the place is now being looked after by a combination of the town council and the local climbing club - The Mynydd.
Normclimber - 03/Sep/11
There are some good routes here, but beware of loose rock and, er, hypodermic needles. Yes, someone dislodged one of these from the top of a route today and it missed his belayer by a few feet.
PeteH - 01/May/10
the flake mid way up the orgional route is dangerously loose!
hiu068 - 22/Dec/07
Might be worth knowing how to abseil before attending this crag! All in all its a nice little place, dry mostly when everywhere else is wet, just keep an eye on the baggage! Im convinced the older folk where eyeing up my trainers at the bottom of the climb! However its a nice place, gear is pretty sparce at the top. Give it a go!
Jimbo MSider - 23/Feb/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Alcove 
2Basic AreteE1 5b 14
3The Stork
E1 5c 2
4Alcove CrackHVS 5a ***386
5Sunny Dayf6C 4
6Alcove Traversef5+ 26
7Like a Ship without an Anchor, like a Slave without a ChainE4 6b *3
8The SandmanE1 5b 11
954E5 6b  
10Soiled GoodsE2 5c 11
11Porky's Wall Left-hand
f6A 16
12Porky's WallHVS 5c 47
13Porky's Wall Right-hand
f5+ 11
14Piggy's CrackVS 4c *156
15The SteepleHVS 5a 60
16Clotted CreamVS 4c 31
 Electric Circus 
18Trinity Crack
E1 4c 1
19NutshrinkerE3 6a **4
20The AreteE3 5b *36
21Siege TacticsE4 6b **3
22UltimatumE3 6a **13
23Mather CrackE2 5b **178
24GruntiesE3 6a * 
25Electric CircusE3 5c ***124
26Short CircuitE4 6a 16
27Oak Tree WallE3 5c 6
28Worthy of Some StrainE3 6b  
29Grim Reaper Traversef6A+ **36
30Grim Reaper Directf7B 3
31The Grim ReaperE5 6b *5
32TransformationHVS 4c 21
33Sandy Aretef6A+ 16
34SandboxE3 5b 2
35Mortf7C+ *1
36Stonewall Crack
HVS 5a 20
 Viaduct Wall 
38The PoiseE2 5c **9

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer MischaHY