Climbs 109
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 120m a.s.l
Faces S

New Mills Torrs, view from the Riverside Pillar. © stoo2k

Crag features

A continuous quarried face some 200m long and up to 22m high set in an impressive narrow gorge, popular with local walkers. Rock generally good, steep/overhanging with square cut holds. Sheltered during rain. Routes mainly HVS and above. Well worth a visit, especially if you're rained off a more exposed moorland edge in the area. Best routes are Alcove Crack (HVS 5a), King of the Swingers (E1 5b), The Arete (E2 5b), Electric Circus (E2 5b), Bionics Wall (E4 6a), and Hallelujah Chorus (E5 6b).

There's also some excellent bouldering with long traverses of the left-hand crag (V2) and the Viaduct Wall (V2 and V7 at different heights).

[Mod's note: the pin on the googleMap can't be placed right on the crag. It's about 100 m west of the pin.]

Approach notes

From New Mills (9 miles SE of Stockport just off the A6) follow signs to 'The Tors' (5 min); or from New Mills Central bus station or train station follow signs for the Millenium walkway bridge - the crag is just beyond.

Alternatively park on Albion Road, walk down Jodrell Street and down the long ramp from the Rock Inn and you'll see the crag in front of you.

The best post-crag pubs are the Rock Inn on Torr Vale Road (nice beer garden when sunny) or the Beehive on Albion Road. The best chippy is the one on Market Street in the town centre and the best cafe is Llamedos, further up Market Street.

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Over the Moors (2012)
Peak District: Bouldering (2011)
On Peak Rock (2003)
Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990)

Out of print:
Some lower off's have appeared on bionics wall.
angus - 21/Nov/14
Could someone give me an idea of where the line 'Worthy of some strain E3/6b goes? Is it left or right of Grim Reaper?
MischaHY - 11/Nov/13
On the viaduct pillar? They are in the BMC 'Over The Moors Guidebook' and listed here on UKC under the 'Viaduct Pillar' and 'Riverside Pillar' headings. I have just updated the climbs according to the guidebook.
David Kay - 15/Jul/13
Anybody know the name of the routes on the bridge its self?
m88ulv - 15/Jul/13
Great to see so many climbers out on the viaduct and also bouldering/climbing the rock face - for those that don't know the town there are several pubs, cafes, shops and a Heritage Centre up the steps to the side of the rock face, they are dog, cycle and climber friendly - thanks.
visitnewmills - 31/Mar/13
Hi, What's the route to the right of Evolution or Outrage?
rustaldo - 17/Nov/12
I'm away until the end of the month, but will try and update the rest of the climbs when I get back.
David Kay - 04/Aug/12
Recently took over moderation for this crag. I've rearranged the climbs/buttresses a bit to hopefully make it a bit easier to understand. There's still a bit to do - need to get hold of an over the moors guide for a more definitive list of climbs. Looks like there might be a couple of duplicates or climbs
David Kay - 02/Aug/12
10 shiny new well bolted lines on the bridge parapet should entice a few more down here. As part of the Torrs Riverside Park, the place is now being looked after by a combination of the town council and the local climbing club - The Mynydd.
Normclimber - 03/Sep/11
There are some good routes here, but beware of loose rock and, er, hypodermic needles. Yes, someone dislodged one of these from the top of a route today and it missed his belayer by a few feet.
PeteH - 01/May/10
the flake mid way up the orgional route is dangerously loose!
hiu068 - 22/Dec/07
Might be worth knowing how to abseil before attending this crag! All in all its a nice little place, dry mostly when everywhere else is wet, just keep an eye on the baggage! Im convinced the older folk where eyeing up my trainers at the bottom of the climb! However its a nice place, gear is pretty sparce at the top. Give it a go!
Jimbo MSider - 23/Feb/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Alcove 
2Basic AreteE1 5b 15
3The Stork
-
E1 5c 2
4Alcove CrackHVS 5a ***462
5Alcove Wallf7C * 
6Sunny Dayf6C 4
7Alcove Traversef5+ *32
8Like a Ship without an Anchor, like a Slave without a ChainE4 6b *3
9The SandmanE1 5b 17
1054E5 6b  
11Soiled GoodsE2 5c 11
12Porky's Wall Left-hand
-
f6A 17
13Porky's WallHVS 5c 51
14Porky's Wall Right-handf5+ 13
15Piggy's CrackVS 4c *181
16The SteepleHVS 5a 66
17Clotted CreamVS 4c 33
 Electric Circus 
19Trinity Crack
-
E1 4c 2
20NutshrinkerE3 6a **4
21The AreteE3 5b *44
22Siege TacticsE4 6b **3
23UltimatumE3 6a **14
24Mather CrackE2 5b **218
25GruntiesE3 6a *2
26Electric CircusE3 5c ***157
27Short CircuitE4 6a 20
28Oak Tree WallE3 5c 8
29Worthy of Some StrainE3 6b  
30Grim Reaper Traversef6A+ **44
31Grim Reaper Directf7A+ *3
32The Grim ReaperE5 6b *5
33TransformationHVS 4c 24
34Sandy Aretef6A+ *17
35SandboxE3 5b 2
36Mortf7C+ *1
37Stonewall Crack
-
HVS 5a 25
 Viaduct Wall 
39The PoiseE2 5c **10

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer MischaHY