Lustleigh Cleave (The Nutcrackers)

Climbs 23 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
The bouldering in this area is still being developed and these along with the routes give a very worthwhile venue particulary when combined with another of the Lustleigh venues. The rock at Lustleigh is some of the finest and best on the moor making some of the problems well worth a visit purely for this factor.

The Nutcracker area is made up of around six small sectors containing between 2 to 6 problems each. The first area contains the pinnacle, Over the hill and the slopey boulder and is reached along the path just before the butress containing the routes Bamboozled E4 6a** and Lev E6 6b***.

Further details for the routes can be found in the guide and on Javu.co.uk

Access notes
From Bovey Tracey take the Manaton road. Carry on along here until a right turn at the bottom of a hill signed for Lustleigh. Follow this road for approx. 1 mile, over a bridge and then take a left turn immediately after. Carry straight on along here for about 1 mile until parking spots on the side of the road. This is just before a footpath on the left with sign for Hunter's Tor, opposite some posh houses one called "LoganStone". To get to the Nutcracker area follow the path directly up the hill untilyou reach the top plateau. From here follow the path leftwards for a couple of minutes to discover the boulders among the trees!!

Guidebooks
South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 ISOLATED BUTTRESS 
2Isolated ButtressV4 6a **
 THE SLAB BOULDER 
4The SlabV2 5c ***
 SLOPEY BOULDER 
6RockoverV5 6b **
7Right AreteV5 6b *
8T.B.L.V8 6c **
9Easy SlabV0 4b *
10Easy Slab RightVB
 THE PINNACLE AREA 
12Over the HillV6 6b **
13The PillarV2 5c **
14Crystal MazeE5 6b
 WARM UP WALL 
16Micks AreteV3 5b **
17Slopey MickV2 5c *
18Zig ZagV1 5b *
19Micks WallV1 5a *
20Micks BulgeV2 5c **
 THE SLAP BOULDER 
22The SlapV4 6a *
 POLLY BUTTRESS 
24Polly Wants a ......S 4a *
25Short but SweetVS 4c *
26Attractive ScoopV4 5c **
 LITTLE NTBTA BOULDER 
28Flakey AreteV0 5b *
29Little NTBTAV1 5b *
30Eliminate AreteV5 6b *
31Short CrackV0 5b
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These details were last updated on 13/Feb/2011
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