Climbs 55
Rocktype Granite

Clockwork orange © andy south devon

Crag features

The bouldering in this area is still being developed and these along with the routes give a very worthwhile venue particulary when combined with another of the Lustleigh venues. The rock at Lustleigh is some of the finest and best on the moor making some of the problems well worth a visit purely for this factor.

The Nutcracker area is made up of around six small sectors containing between 2 to 6 problems each. The first area contains the pinnacle, Over the hill and the slopey boulder and is reached along the path just before the butress containing the routes Bamboozled E4 6a** and Lev E6 6b***.

Further details for the routes can be found in the guide and on Javu.co.uk

Approach notes

From Bovey Tracey take the Manaton road. Carry on along here until a right turn at the bottom of a hill signed for Lustleigh. Follow this road for approx. 1 mile, over a bridge and then take a left turn immediately after. Carry straight on along here for about 1 mile until parking spots on the side of the road. This is just before a footpath on the left with sign for Hunter's Tor, opposite some posh houses one called "LoganStone". To get to the Nutcracker area follow the path directly up the hill untilyou reach the top plateau. From here follow the path leftwards for a couple of minutes to discover the boulders among the trees!!

Boulders are described from the above approach and then roughly from left to right with some boulders below the others this is mentioned in the text for each boulder. It is perhaps easier to follow the left hand path to the top of the hill to find the Butchers Block and the Hill Crest sector.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Isolated Buttress 
2Isolated ButtressV4 **1
 The Slab Boulder 
4The SlabV2 ***9
5Slab TraverseV4 2
 Slopey Boulder 
7RockoverV5 **3
8Right AreteV5 *9
9T.B.L.V8 ** 
10Easy SlabV0 *2
11Easy Slab RightVB 1
 The Pinnacle Area 
13Over the HillV6 **8
14Over the MountainV10 *** 
15Behind the Hill?V2 1
16The PillarV2 **14
17Crystal MazeE5 6b 1
 Warm Up Wall 
19Micks AreteV3 **1
20Slopey MickV2 *2
21Zig ZagV1 *2
22Micks WallV1 *3
23Micks BulgeV2 **3
24Micks LungeV3 *1
 The Roof Boulder 
26Camel Toe TraverseV6 1
27HerculesV3 **7
28CerberusV2 **5
 The Slap Boulder 
30Bear ArÍteV5 ***6
31The SlapV4 *4
 Jez's Little Bulge 
33Clockwork OrangeV6 ***5
34Paths of GloryV4 **1
 Polly Buttress 
36Polly Wants a ......S 4a *1
37Short but SweetVS 4c *1
38Attractive ScoopV4 **1
 Little NTBTA Boulder 
40Flakey AreteV0 *4
41Arete EliminateV2 1
42Little NTBTAV1 *6
43Eliminate AreteV5 *4
44Compression I CraveV4 *4
45Short CrackV0 3

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