Lustleigh Cleave (The Nutcrackers)

Climbs 44 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
The bouldering in this area is still being developed and these along with the routes give a very worthwhile venue particulary when combined with another of the Lustleigh venues. The rock at Lustleigh is some of the finest and best on the moor making some of the problems well worth a visit purely for this factor.

The Nutcracker area is made up of around six small sectors containing between 2 to 6 problems each. The first area contains the pinnacle, Over the hill and the slopey boulder and is reached along the path just before the butress containing the routes Bamboozled E4 6a** and Lev E6 6b***.

Further details for the routes can be found in the guide and on Javu.co.uk

Access notes
From Bovey Tracey take the Manaton road. Carry on along here until a right turn at the bottom of a hill signed for Lustleigh. Follow this road for approx. 1 mile, over a bridge and then take a left turn immediately after. Carry straight on along here for about 1 mile until parking spots on the side of the road. This is just before a footpath on the left with sign for Hunter's Tor, opposite some posh houses one called "LoganStone". To get to the Nutcracker area follow the path directly up the hill untilyou reach the top plateau. From here follow the path leftwards for a couple of minutes to discover the boulders among the trees!!

Boulders are described from the above approach and then roughly from left to right with some boulders below the others this is mentioned in the text for each boulder. It is perhaps easier to follow the left hand path to the top of the hill to find the Butchers Block and the Hill Crest sector.

Guidebooks
South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 ISOLATED BUTTRESS  
2Isolated ButtressV4 6a **1
 THE SLAB BOULDER  
4The SlabV2 5c ***7
5Slab TraverseV4 6a 2
 SLOPEY BOULDER  
7RockoverV5 6b **3
8Right AreteV5 6b *8
9T.B.L.V8 6c ** 
10Easy SlabV0 4b *1
11Easy Slab RightVB  
 THE PINNACLE AREA  
13Over the HillV6 6b **5
14The PillarV2 5c **11
15Crystal MazeE5 6b 1
 WARM UP WALL  
17Micks AreteV3 5b **1
18Slopey MickV2 5c *2
19Zig ZagV1 5b *2
20Micks WallV1 5a *3
21Micks BulgeV2 5c **3
22Micks LungeV3 6a *1
 THE ROOF BOULDER  
24Camel Toe TraverseV6 6b 1
25HerculesV3 5c **7
26CerberusV2 5c **5
 THE SLAP BOULDER  
28Bear ArêteV5 6b ***6
29The SlapV4 6a *4
 JEZ'S LITTLE BULGE  
31Clockwork OrangeV6 6b ***4
32Paths of GloryV4 6a **1
 POLLY BUTTRESS  
34Polly Wants a ......S 4a *1
35Short but SweetVS 4c *1
36Attractive ScoopV4 5c ** 
 LITTLE NTBTA BOULDER  
38Flakey AreteV0 5b *4
39Little NTBTAV1 5b *6
40Eliminate AreteV5 6b *3
41Short CrackV0 5b 3
42Compression I CraveV4 6a *3
 HILL CREST  
44Hung Like a MakakV5 6b *2
45Road HouseV4 6b *3
46Conscientious TwixV3 6a **1
47Careless WhisperV5 6b ***6
48ShoutV0- 1
49The Tipsy GypsyV4 6a **1
 THE BUTCHERS BLOCK  
51The CleaverV4 6a **3
52Kneel before ZodV7 6c ***1
53The Front Door BakerV2 5c *3
54The Butcher at 36V3 6a *1
55The Cowboy ButcherV5 6b ***4
56The Back Door ButcherV3 5c **5
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Macca_7

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
There are no comments from visitors to this crag.