Climbs 52
Rocktype Granite

Clockwork orange © andy south devon

Crag features

The bouldering in this area is still being developed and these along with the routes give a very worthwhile venue particulary when combined with another of the Lustleigh venues. The rock at Lustleigh is some of the finest and best on the moor making some of the problems well worth a visit purely for this factor.

The Nutcracker area is made up of around six small sectors containing between 2 to 6 problems each. The first area contains the pinnacle, Over the hill and the slopey boulder and is reached along the path just before the butress containing the routes Bamboozled E4 6a** and Lev E6 6b***.

Further details for the routes can be found in the guide and on

Approach notes

From Bovey Tracey take the Manaton road. Carry on along here until a right turn at the bottom of a hill signed for Lustleigh. Follow this road for approx. 1 mile, over a bridge and then take a left turn immediately after. Carry straight on along here for about 1 mile until parking spots on the side of the road. This is just before a footpath on the left with sign for Hunter's Tor, opposite some posh houses one called "LoganStone". To get to the Nutcracker area follow the path directly up the hill untilyou reach the top plateau. From here follow the path leftwards for a couple of minutes to discover the boulders among the trees!!

Boulders are described from the above approach and then roughly from left to right with some boulders below the others this is mentioned in the text for each boulder. It is perhaps easier to follow the left hand path to the top of the hill to find the Butchers Block and the Hill Crest sector.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Isolated Buttress 
2Isolated Buttressf6B **1
 The Slab Boulder 
4The Slabf5+ ***9
5Slab Traversef6B 2
 Slopey Boulder 
7Rockoverf6C **3
8Right Aretef6C *9
9T.B.L.f7B ** 
10Easy Slabf4 *2
11Easy Slab Rightf3 1
 The Pinnacle Area 
13Over the Hillf7A **7
14The Pillarf5+ **13
15Crystal MazeE5 6b 1
 Warm Up Wall 
17Micks Aretef6A **1
18Slopey Mickf5+ *2
19Zig Zagf5 *2
20Micks Wallf5 *3
21Micks Bulgef5+ **3
22Micks Lungef6A *1
 The Roof Boulder 
24Camel Toe Traversef7A 1
25Herculesf6A **7
26Cerberusf5+ **5
 The Slap Boulder 
28Bear ArÍtef6C ***6
29The Slapf6B *4
 Jez's Little Bulge 
31Clockwork Orangef7A ***5
32Paths of Gloryf6B **1
 Polly Buttress 
34Polly Wants a ......S 4a *1
35Short but SweetVS 4c *1
36Attractive Scoopf6B **1
 Little NTBTA Boulder 
38Flakey Aretef4 *4
39Little NTBTAf5 *6
40Eliminate Aretef6C *4
41Short Crackf4 3
42Compression I Cravef6B *3
 Hill Crest 
44Hung Like a Makakf6C *2

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