Climbs 112
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 280m a.s.l
Faces SW

Craig Bailey crimping hard on Dragon's Route (E3 5c*), Hobson Moor Quarry. © Architectonic

Crag features

A pleasant (for a quarry!) climbing ground with easy access and good 'crack' with the locals. Mostly good rock on the right side of vertical! Routes mainly VS and above approx 15 - 20m long. Some of the harder routes are equipped with pegs as sport routes. Best climbs are Crew's Route (VS 4c), Parker's Eliminate (HVS 5a), Tighe's Arete (E1 5a), Great Expectations (E3 6a), Fingertip Control and Hobson's Choice (both E5 6b).

The low level traverse is a classic.

Approach notes

From the A6018 Mottram to Stalybridge road, take the minor road (at SJ 985967) opposite a set of new build flats for 500m keeping left at any junction. Park next to the quarry.

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
There has been a recent and massive clean up of the place with many previously unclimbable routes now in good condition. Most of this work has been done by the marvellous Ben Tetler. Come along and climb here, you won't regret it.
Frank the Husky - 17/May/16
There must have been a bit of a clean up since the last comment as there isn't much fly tipped rubbish - still a fair load of small pieces of a glass though - a shame 'cus puts me off bringing my toddler here.
noteviljoe - 11/Jul/13
Saw some guys shooting air guns here, some ledges covered in smashed glass bottles. Lots of fly tipped rubbish, crag is in dire need of a cleanup.
James Oakes - 21/May/13
Clean up? I was very disappointed to see smashed glass EVERYWHERE!!! Also seems to be frequented by campers bent on leaving a friggin mess - a real shame cos the bouldering is quite good.
jules699 - 15/Sep/12
Now looking better after the recent cleanup!
Paul Evans - 07/May/12
adding to craigh comment - every time ive been here ive got into a routine of going to top of routes after seeing the chavs and 9 out of 10 times the krabs are unscrewed and knots loosened, pity tasers arnt legal for climbers lol. Always check gear if you see chavs hope no1 has accidents due to insensitive idiots
philip1984 - 26/Oct/11
Having been here only 3 times over 5 years the climbing remains nice, but the atmosphere has worsened due to the amount of litter and especially broken glass covering most of the ground. The worst is that bottles are obviusly thrown at the walls, so beware glass lodged in or on holds.
steveshaking - 08/Sep/10
nice place, but very busy with outdoor groups top roping and abseiling on the few climbs around VS
adam06 - 30/Oct/09
Cosy little crag with some great routes. Has a tendency to seep after rain, especially the wall above the main bouldering traverse.
SecretSquirrel - 25/Aug/08
Great venue for the HS to Extreme climber. Not much for beginners. Well sheltered most of the time and a real sun trap. Good stake belays and very rarely crowded.
JULIAN.LANE@ORACLE.COM - 03/Apr/07
It is not uncommon for gear to go walk about here. This has happened to a few people I know especially when they have taken groups and set up top ropes. Local kids have taken rigging ropes, crabs and even rucksacks being used as rope protectors. Leave nothing valuble at the top especially if kids are lurking and check rigging frequently.
craig h - 30/Apr/04
The low level traverse is great, and dam hard as well. Some other first rate bouldering here as well. Quite a few bats during the summer evenings devouring the midges as well, viva-la-bat ! Nice quarry, nice setting.
Rory - 18/May/03
The petrol station has now closed, there is a pub opposite as well, think it's the wagon and horses but can check this iain johnson
Iain Johnson - 09/May/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Back Wall 
2Eastern TouchE4 6a *6
3Apres MidiE2 5c *6
4Gardener's WorldE4 6b *6
5Wanna Buy a Bolt Kit?E4 6b *4
6HeatwaveE2 5c 4
7Hanging SlabE1 5b *109
8Aufheben's WallE5 6b *1
9Crock's ClimbE1 5b 28
10The Heat is OnE4 6b *1
11Fingertip ControlE5 6b *** 
12Gable EndE4 6a **13
13Hobson's ChoiceE5 6b **14
14Great ExpectationsE3 5c **40
15MonsoonHVS 5b 14
16Wit on the StairsE3 6a 1
17WotawallE2 5b 1
18Worm's TurnE4 6c 1
19RaindropE4 6a *14
20The ScytheE2 5b 52
21Sunshine Super GlueE3 6a **20
22Bring me SunshineE2 5c 136
 Main Wall 
24Epitaph CornerVS 4b **612
25Sunshine SupermanE2 5b 178
26Parker's EliminateHVS 5a ***795
27Fade AwayE2 5c 6
28GideonVS 5a *436
29Basic TrainingE5 6c *2
30GideoniteHVS 5a *170
31Crew's RouteVS 4c ***885
32Peak AreteHVS 5a 119
33Steve's DilemmaE2 6a 21
34RSHVS 5c 4
35Evening RidgeVD 149
36Midnight VariationS 4a 149
 Dragon's Wall 
38Dragon's RouteE3 5c *153
39What To Do On A Wet Sunday AfternoonE1 5b *11
79Pillar Facef7A *16
80Pillar Aretef5 * 
81Slot to SlotV1 *42
82Block AreteV0 45
83Dragon's Slabf5 27
84Right Wall TraverseV2 *60
85Percy 97f6A+ **126
86Percy 97 EliminateV10 5
87Percy 97 DynoV6 18
88Percy's Crackf4 26
89Percy's Crack Dynof6C 2
90Double Dynof6A *9
91Percy Left-handf5+ *62
92Percy Right-handf4+ *99
93Percy Right Footf6B 6
94Dirty CornerV0- 51
95Triangle Leftf6A+ **40
96Trianglef6B **86
97Triangle Eliminatef7A 1
98Triangle Aretef5+ *43
99Triangle Arete Eliminatef6C 6
100Easy Crackf3 95
101Slippery Groovef3+ 109
102Edgy Slabf3 127
103Slab AreteV0- 70
104High Wallf4  
105High Aretef5+  
106Low-level TraverseV5 ***10
107Green Wallf3 *45
108Green Rampf4 55
109Ribf5 *59
110The Seamf5 65
111Flakesf5 67
112Grain of Sand start V0 1
113Craig's Dyno *f6C+ *1
114Pillar Face sit *f7A+ * 
115Steve's Dilemma Ledge Wall *f6B+  
116Edgy Slab Low Traverse *f6C ** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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