Hobson Moor Quarry

Climbs 102 – Rocktype Grit (quarried) – Altitude 280m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A pleasant (for a quarry!) climbing ground with easy access and good 'crack' with the locals. Mostly good rock on the right side of vertical! Routes mainly VS and above approx 15 - 20m long. Some of the harder routes are equipped with pegs as sport routes. Best climbs are Crew's Route (VS 4c), Parker's Eliminate (HVS 5a), Tighe's Arete (E1 5a), Great Expectations (E3 6a), Fingertip Control and Hobson's Choice (both E5 6b).

The low level traverse is a classic.

Access notes
From the A6018 Mottram to Stalybridge road, take the minor road (at SJ 985967) opposite a set of new build flats for 500m keeping left at any junction. Park next to the quarry.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Over the Moors (2012), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Western Grit (2009), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 BACK WALL  
2Eastern TouchE4 6a *4
3Apres MidiE2 5c *5
4Gardener's WorldE4 6b *2
5Wanna Buy a Bolt Kit?E4 6b *3
6HeatwaveE2 5c 3
7Hanging SlabE1 5b *73
8Crock's ClimbE1 5b 18
9The Heat is OnE4 6b * 
10Fingertip ControlE5 6b *** 
11Gable EndE4 6a **11
12Hobson's ChoiceE5 6b **9
13Great ExpectationsE3 5c **28
14MonsoonHVS 5b 9
15WotawallE2 5b 1
16Worm's TurnE4 6c  
17RaindropE4 6a *11
18The ScytheE2 5b 36
19Sunshine Super GlueE3 6a **17
20Bring me SunshineE2 5c 91
 MAIN WALL  
22Epitaph CornerVS 4b **455
23Sunshine SupermanE2 5b 119
24Parker's EliminateHVS 5a ***573
25Fade AwayE2 5c 3
26GideonVS 5a *306
27Basic TrainingE5 6c *2
28GideoniteHVS 5a *118
29Crew's RouteVS 4c ***667
30Peak AreteHVS 5a 89
31Steve's DilemmaE2 6a 12
32RSHVS 5c 2
33Evening RidgeVD 119
34Midnight VariationS 4a 108
 DRAGON'S WALL  
36Dragon's RouteE3 5c *113
37What To Do On A Wet Sunday AfternoonE1 5b *9
38Scale the DragonE5 6b **34
39The HobsonianE6 6c 1
40DrizzleE3 6a **83
41DroughtE4 6a *26
42Foghorn GrooveVS 4c *349
43Wind InstrumentHVS 5a 54
44The HarpHS 4b *560
45Blind TigerHVS 5a 5
46Boys Will Be BoysHS 4b 26
47Dark KnightHS 4a 14
48Pocket WallVD *451
49Pocket GrooveVD 17
50Tighe's AreteE1 5a **355
51Ledge WayHS 4b 127
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
There must have been a bit of a clean up since the last comment as there isn't much fly tipped rubbish - still a fair load of small pieces of a glass though - a shame 'cus puts me off bringing my toddler here.
noteviljoe - 11/Jul/13
Saw some guys shooting air guns here, some ledges covered in smashed glass bottles. Lots of fly tipped rubbish, crag is in dire need of a cleanup.
James Oakes - 21/May/13
Clean up? I was very disappointed to see smashed glass EVERYWHERE!!! Also seems to be frequented by campers bent on leaving a friggin mess - a real shame cos the bouldering is quite good.
jules699 - 15/Sep/12
Now looking better after the recent cleanup!
Paul Evans - 07/May/12
adding to craigh comment - every time ive been here ive got into a routine of going to top of routes after seeing the chavs and 9 out of 10 times the krabs are unscrewed and knots loosened, pity tasers arnt legal for climbers lol. Always check gear if you see chavs hope no1 has accidents due to insensitive idiots
philip1984 - 26/Oct/11
Having been here only 3 times over 5 years the climbing remains nice, but the atmosphere has worsened due to the amount of litter and especially broken glass covering most of the ground. The worst is that bottles are obviusly thrown at the walls, so beware glass lodged in or on holds.
steveshaking - 08/Sep/10
nice place, but very busy with outdoor groups top roping and abseiling on the few climbs around VS
adam06 - 30/Oct/09
Cosy little crag with some great routes. Has a tendency to seep after rain, especially the wall above the main bouldering traverse.
SecretSquirrel - 25/Aug/08
Great venue for the HS to Extreme climber. Not much for beginners. Well sheltered most of the time and a real sun trap. Good stake belays and very rarely crowded.
JULIAN.LANE@ORACLE.COM - 03/Apr/07
It is not uncommon for gear to go walk about here. This has happened to a few people I know especially when they have taken groups and set up top ropes. Local kids have taken rigging ropes, crabs and even rucksacks being used as rope protectors. Leave nothing valuble at the top especially if kids are lurking and check rigging frequently.
craig h - 30/Apr/04
The low level traverse is great, and dam hard as well. Some other first rate bouldering here as well. Quite a few bats during the summer evenings devouring the midges as well, viva-la-bat ! Nice quarry, nice setting.
Rory - 18/May/03
The petrol station has now closed, there is a pub opposite as well, think it's the wagon and horses but can check this iain johnson
Iain Johnson - 09/May/03
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 03/Aug/2014
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