Climbs 118 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 380m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A big, quality bouldering / soloing crag, but very dirty in places due to the lack of traffic it receives (see below). Well worth a visit.

Approach notes
"Sensitive Access: As of 28/05/05 the crag is on 'Open Access' land, therefore climbers now have a statutory right of access to this excellent wild bouldering crag."

(From Access section of the BMC website, as per link in previous info)

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 1 (2012), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering Vol 2 (2011), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999),
Out of print: Wild Bouldering in Yorkshire (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2The Jumpf2 1
3BlotVB 4a *1
4FriendsVB 4a 1
5RelationsV0 5b 1
6SaundersV1 5b 1
7SmudgeV0 5a 1
9North End of Poohf5 1
10Slendererf5 * 
12All Pull TogetherS 4a 4
13Round in CirclesVS 5a 1
14What happens now?E3 6b * 
15Cloud NineVB 4a 1
17Foolish and Deludedf5 *1
18Sweat It Outf5 1
19Hot And Anxiousf4+ **5
21Alexander Beetlef6A 1
22BotherVS 5a 2
23Henry RushHVS 5a  
24Condensed Milkf5  
26In a Quiet wayV0 4c  
27Nobody's businessVB 4b  
29Bell pullf3 1
30A Campanologists Talef5 1
31Tails get in the wayf5 1
33Crustimoney Proceedcakef6A+ * 
34Hundred Inches longE1 5c  
37The Woozlef6A  
39Malt extractf4+  
41Peaceful Smilef5  
43The Boss aka Loose Changef7A *1
44Bouncesf5+ **1
45Stones Too MuchVS 4b 1
46Strengthening Machinef5+ * 
47Large Gollolupf6A  
48Pencef5+ 5a  
49Droopy DrawersMVS 4b  
51Henry Pootelf5  
52Piglet Aretef7A  
53A Very Grand Thingf5  
54In as Much asf4  
55Cracking upHVD 5
56Like NothingE1 5b 1
58On the Other handVS 5a 1
59Heffalump Wallf7A 1
60TwiggyE1 5b **3
61Lumping AlongVS 5a  
62Long Time Comingf6A+ 6a  
63A Deep PitHVS 5a  
64Got any String?VS 5a  
65A Sinking Feelingf4+  
66A Cunning TrapE3 5c  
67Fond of Pigsf3 1
68Found Nothingf3 *1
70Agogf5 5
71Agroanf6A *3
72Aghastf5 4
73Whyf4+ 4
74Whereforef4+ 5
75Wheneverf4 4
76Whateverf5 3
78The Blue BomberVS 5a  
79Thoughtful WayHVS 5b 1
80Tracking SomethingHVS 5b **5
81Funnything AccidentsE1 5c **4
82Breaking OutE3 6b *6
83Lacking in SmackE2 6b ***4
84Caught in an EddyE2 6a ***10
85EeyoreE2 6a *4
86Trained BloodhoundHVS 5b  
87Horse Gone WonkyE2 6a ***5
88Drop the Dead DonkeyE3 6c 1
89Make Wavesf4  
90Lazy Riverf4  
91Ice Boxf4 1
92In a Cooling Mannerf4+ 1
94A Little Somethingf5  
95Bouncedf5 2
96Tiggers Can Flyf6A ** 
97Some DaysE1 5b *1
98Pooh SticksS 4a 4
99A Little AnxiousE1 5b ***1
100Of Little Brainf4  
101Calm WatersVB 4b  
103Another Winters edgef4  
104Twitchy sort of wayf4+ 18
105Adulterated Blissf2+ 15
106GalesE1 5c 2
107A Little TroubleE2 6a 7
108Twice 19f5 3
109Say Nothingf6A+ 2
110Heap of EverybodyHVS 5c * 
111Little HeapVB 4a  
112The Jagularf3 1
113Sparkling Alongf4+ *1
114What Iff3 4
116TesticleVS 5a 1
117TentacleVS 4c *4
118Just Pad DadS 12
119Itchy ChinE3 6c 2
120Swirral EdgeE3 6b *2
121Striding EdgeE1 5b ***25
122Jaw Crawlerf7C+  
123Flying ColoursHVS 5b 11
124Under the AwningE3 6a *3
125Burglary within TentE2 5c *5
126No LoiteringE2 5c *6
128Cissy Greensf6A  
129Flakey Pastryf6A  
130Sausage Rollf4+ 1
131Tasty Pastryf6A 1
132Chip Buttyf5 1
133Crumbli'f5+ 1
134Apfel Strudelf5 2
135Vol au Vontf5+  
136Vanilla Slicef6A 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Those shooting tracks are down on the Council's books as unclassified roads, and the sign just says "unsuitable" for cars, as opposed to the proper sign banning cars going over Pock Stones Moor. I think you'd be fine to take a car there (providing you can clear the odd bump where there's a drainage ditch) but at the risk of pissing off the Estate. Before the CRoW Act came in they did ban climbing at the crag as soon as they found out it was going on, so they clearly aren't sold on the idea anyway. They can make things difficult if they want to.
Will Hunt - 16/Aug/15
Nice crag, deserves more traffic. Is parking just past the Shooting Lodge allowed?
MTL - 09/Aug/15