Climbs 63
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

James working 'Larger Than Life' a long traverse project down at Ladye Bay, Clevedon. © Beastly Squirrel

Crag features

Discontinous line of low cliffs with bouldering and quite a few sports routes.

The rock is a young limestone, much like Portland.

Quite a few of the routes have hard starts and hard finishes with soft climbing in the middle.

Helmets may be a good idea as we had quite a few bits fall off when we were there!

It is tidal - exiting at high tide could be soggy..

Bolted with staples - they look ok and have held falls!

Bouldering has seen a lot of development recently but James Squire, Rob Stanfield and Jack Bradbrook. Online guide here:

Approach notes

The access notes in the Avon Guide are outstanding. Just follow them to the letter and you can't go wrong.

a word of warning to anyone who isn't keen on creepy-crawlies. Some of the pockets hold clusters of inch long sea woodlouse things, and they drop out on you. I had to spend 20 mins with a stick and a torch, dangling on our rope and extracting them from dark cracks before the rest of the party would deign to go near the routes!
hms - 01/Sep/13
There appears to be roughly two new lines of bolts between "Stick Insect" and "Sloped beyond Imagination". Does anyone have any information on these?
Tom Brierley Gore - 20/Jun/13
Beastly Squirrel - 07/Oct/12
If anyone is after a video of 'Starboard Traverse Extension', 'Seaside Scare', 'Notion' or 'Tactical Nuke' just e-mail me and I'll send you the video!
Beastly Squirrel - 27/Aug/11
Is there any online topo's for the boulder problems on this crag?
joe.91 - 22/Jun/11
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Climbs at this crag

 Doughnut Caves
25Juggy cave painf5+
26The Seaside Traversef7B **
27Ring Doughnutsf6C *
28Bullet Hole Barrelf5+ *
29Cake Fetishf7A+ *
30Doughnut Frenzyf7A ***
31Bone BreakerHS 4a
32RIP Monster truckVS 4a
33Block Travercef6A *
34Conflicting Emotionsf5
35Hold your breathHVS 4c
36The NebulaVS 4b
37Chaved Duckf6A *
 The Halfway Boulders
39Getting a Bit Lippyf6B
 Main Crag
41Notionf6B **
42Rob's Dynof6B *
43Tactical Nukef6C **
44The Lightest Hourf7C ***
45The Darkest Hourf7B+ ***
46Starboard Traverse - Extensionf7B **
47Starboard Traversef7A+ ***
48The Highwayman - Extensionf7B **
49The Highwaymanf7A+ ***
50Seaside Scaref6C *
51Aquatic Fanaticf6A
52Tom's Dynof6C *
53Mono Misfitsf6C
54Ship Wreckf7C **
55Larger Than Lifef7C+ **
56Portside Traversef7B *
57Slap!f7A+ ***
 The House Boulders
59The Big Bully Rooff7A **
60DesparÍtef7B **
61Not So DesparÍtef5+ ***
62The Tillie Traversef5 ***
 The Hidden Roofs
64Rocket Rooff7B+ ***
65James's Rooff7B **
66Fine ArtProject
67Sam's Vee Toof5+ **
68Creeper DungeonS
69Tillie's Low *f7A
70The Low Balls *f6A
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Beastly Squirrel