Snuff Mills Park

Climbs 81 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 40m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
Some quarries and natural buttresses. In the process of being cleaned up and developed for the forthcoming guidebook.

Guidebooks
Avon and Cheddar (2004), Avon and Cheddar (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE QUARRIES  
 FIRST WALL  
3The Robin's ProblemV1 5b 1
 RHEA WALL  
5Dire RheaHVS 4b 1
6FlightlessV6 6c *8
7Thin crack to treeV1 5b 3
8Slab to treeV1 5b 2
9I Love U RheaVS 4c 2
10More Than MoleculesE1 5b 2
11Quixotical AreteHVS 5a 2
12CelandineE1 5a 1
13SpeedwellE1 5a 1
 BIG GREY LEANING WALL  
15The Indian FarceHVS 5a 1
16Je Suis PylôneE2 5c *2
17Morris Dancing on EcstacyVS 4c **4
18Revelations6a *4
19Hubble6b+ **20
20Chilam Balam6c *8
21The Face6b+ *9
22Just Do It6b 4
23LA Dura Dura7a+ *6
24L'autre Côté du ciel6c **4
25Agincourt6c 4
26Action Direct6c *8
27LA Rambla(extension)7a **5
28Punks in the Gym6c+ *6
29Biographie6c+ *9
30Akira6c 3
31Mecca the mid-life crisis7a *11
 TERRACOTTA WALL  
33Drip teaseE1 5c 1
34Terror CottageVS 5a 2
35The Ninja WarriorE7 6c *1
36Terra-chaoticE6 6b 1
37The Kissing TreeE3 6a 1
38Right CrackE1 5c *3
39The Short ClimbVS 4c 2
40The Evening PlayHVS 5c 1
41The F.A CupE3 6a **8
 UPPER WALLS  
43Ultimate SurrenderE3 5c/6a **2
44Fingertippin'f6A+  
45Anarchy Begins at 50HVS 5a 1
 APOKALYPTO WALL  
47This Way UpHS 4a 5
48The Obvious CornerVS 5a 3
49PhaneroE3 6a *7
50ApokalyptoE7 6b/c **8
51Would be knownE2 6a 2
52Captain Obviousf6C+ 3
53The Obvious Railf5+ 2
 ANGRY PANDA WALL  
55Grandpa NayV2 5c 2
56Darn Any GapV2 5c 1
57Angry PandaV3 6a *10
58Randy PaganV2 5c 6
 THE DEN OF INIQUITY  
60Oh dearf7A *3
61Morris Dancersf6A 1
62Morris Dancers directf6A+ *1
 SCHOOL WALLS  
64The MorlockHVS 5a 1
65Battle For The AllotmentsE1 5c 2
 RIVERSIDE BUTTRESSES  
 BRIDGE BUTTRESS  
68Schoolboy's ChimneyD 3
69TendrilsVS 4c 2
70Little HitlerE2 5c * 
71The RampVS 5a *13
72Cobweb WallVS 4c **14
73The Ghost of Snuffy JackVS 4b 1
74LuzulaE1 5b 1
75Snuff MoverVS 5a 1
76Halfpenny ClimbVS 5a 2
 EAVES BUTTRESS  
78Hottest HalloweenHVS 5a 2
79The NetherE2 5b *2
80Under the EavesE3 5c *1
81EavesE1 5a *3
82Eaves dropE4 5c 1
 BB BUTTRESS  
84SozoE2 5b 2
85BB GunsE2 5c 1
86Revolt Into StyleE1 5b 3
 WITHERLY WALL  
88Hard GristE1 5b *2
89The Lunatics (have taken over the Asylum)E6 6c/7a **1
90The MadhouseE2 5b 1
 KM BUTTRESS  
92Smashed out the ParkE1 5a 1
93Silent RoarE6 6c **1
94The People's TheatreVS 4c *1
95Hash AreteVS 4b 2
96River SongE1 5b *2
97Sand StonedE1 5c *2
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Still trying to work out which area is which going by the names on here. The Angry Panda area is of course obvious when you see it and the Apokolipto(?) wall id neighbouring that, and Bridge Buttress approach is covered in the old CC guide, not sure where everything else is though.
Steve nevers - 19/Oct/14
More great work cleaning up by Mark, Guy and team! Some exciting trad routes and some ok bouldering.
tombeasley - 15/Jul/14
Been here this afternoon and did the two VSs "The Ramp" and "Cobweb Wall". Both in good condition and very enjoyable. Definitely worth doing!
pheotleyr - 07/Dec/13
Afraid to say this place is in a right state. Aside from being pretty overgrown theres a lot more damage done.. Using this photo as a guide I'll point out whats up. http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=62927 1) Pretty substantial tree has come down from the top of the crag just to the right off this photo (about 6-10ft to the right). 2) Large firepit at the base of the crag (roughly bottom left of this photo) leaving a fair bit of soot staining the rock. 3) the 'cave' (just around the left corner) has two paving slab blocks in the roof ready to come down, looks like a half decent yank would pull them free. 4) Large(ish) tree at the top of the crag has exposed roots, and some herberts kindly lit a fire inside the root system, leaving it rather weak.
Steve nevers - 08/Apr/13
If you are looking at Bridge Buttress, up the hill and right there is a crag: I spent about 3 or 4 hours one evening clearing a line down the front of it of ivy and that. Certainly looked worth a centure - hope someone climbs there and appreciates my effort. Further up the hill and right yet a bit further (best approached from the small carpark up the top by the houses) there is a small outcrop: four metre high verticle dimpled wall of sandstong. I cleared this of ivy as well and put up a route on the left hand side. Move up and over the small overlap to reach a sloping ledge with hands, make a committing move up to get the arete and to the top. Probably V0 and called Leap of Faith. If someone checks it out, do get in touch, I'd be interested to hear what you think!
chembhoysh - 26/May/08
Replying to Tom above, I wouldnt recommend this crag to anyone without much experience of placing gear, or climbing outside generally. The rock (pennant sandstone) is not as reliable as limestone/granite/grit both in terms of holds breaking and gear placements possibly failing. The place doesnt get that much traffic, and there are big trees at the top, so I would say go along and top rope if you want to try it out - it is in a pleasant setting (apart from a bit of rubbish thrown down from the top :/) and the rock has a very different feel to most of the rock hereabouts (i.e. polished to death limestone) Have fun and be safe Rich
richtea21 - 01/Mar/08
I don't know if this is the right place to ask, but i would like to know if this is a good climb for some one who hasn't really climbed on many outdoor routes, but is a pretty good climber. Thanks for your help Tom
RapellingTom - 26/Nov/07
I love this place! I have only climbed around the cave but it's awesome! very funon the top-rope but I haven't had the heart to trust gear in the sandstone. Last time I was there me and a mate weigthed a friend in the roof of the cave and a housebrick sized piece of rock split off and nearly knocked me unconscious. If anyone wants to go message me, I live about ten minutes walk away, it'll be grand! Capt. Jack
phosphojesus - 25/Apr/07
I agree with richtea, the crag has 2 descent VS's and a few overhanging E3's which are a bit loose and and dirty. But overall it has a cool feel
s0458892 - 03/Dec/06
Visited this crag (Bridge Buttress) yesterday evening, having vaguely looked for it and not found it 10 years ago. Wish I had been more determined now. Easiest way to get to it is to park near the western end of the school just north of the crag, and walk down the big footpath that skirts the edge of the school and drops into the Frome valley. Just before the little footbridge nip throught the gap in the wall and you are there. Nice clean tower of surprisingly solid pennant sandstone, about 50-60ft with a handful of routes including two nice well protected VS's, as well as a couple of worthwhile steep walls and a huge overhang to play about on. Was expecting the top-out to be a jungle bash but it turned out grassy and flat with no nettles/brambles and a superb belay/ab point, or walk off. Makes a nice change from the local polished limestone, and although it looks like it gets some traffic, a bit more would help keep the lines clean. On a side note, for those with kids, about a mile further upstream, near the (now pedestrian) bridge at Frenchay Mill are a pair of 40ft walls. I know that the scouts use one for abseiling, but the second one (about 200 yeards along the upper path, heading downstream from the bridge) is great for taking kids to - my 7 year old loves it - and is very safe. Its a 40ft high, 50ft wide sandstone wall, about 75-80 degrees and climbable anywhere at v.diff/severe grade on lots of flat/slightly positive holds. Again, it is used a bit, but more traffic would make it better. Have fun. Richtea
richtea21 - 21/Jul/06