Roslin Glen

Climbs 60 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces ?

Crag features
Only 10km from Edinburgh (and easily accessable by bus), Roslin Glen provides a large number of short (<30m), hard routes. Varilble rock quality means protection can be interesting, but in general the rock on the East bank is good. Many of the top outs are sandy/manky so for the harder routes it may be worthwhile cleaning the top before climbing! Expect an adventure when climbing here!

Best times are spring and autumn as dense undergrowth and midgies can be a problem.

Recommended routes include: Wrinklies (E3), Gaping Gab (E2), Claymore Crack (E1) and Harry Dodders Crack (E1)

Access notes
For West Bank cliffs (Jumbos bum and red cliff) approach via Roslin Chapel - 10min walk upstream

For East Bank cliffs (Wallaces cave, Lovers leap and hanging butress) approach from Rosewell through fields to pick up numerous paths. River can often be forded to approach from the chapel side.

Guidebooks
Lowland Outcrops (2005),
Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 JUMBOS BUM  
2Rock All Over MeE4 6a 6
3Bum FunE4 6a 3
4Centre LineHVS 5a *15
5Forty-TwaE4 5c 5
6Jumbos ProctoscopyE3 5c 1
 RED CLIFF  
8Panama redE3 6a * 
 WATERFALL CLIFF  
10AficionadoHVS 5a * 
11Edge of DarknessE3 6a * 
12Walk on byE6 6c ** 
13Survival of the FattestE5 6a ** 
14Piano PlayerE5 6a ** 
 WALLACES CAVE  
16Scotch CornerE2 6a * 
17Cave crackHVS 5a  
18RampoE2 5b *1
19The Thin CrackE1 5c 5
20Claymore CrackE1 5c *10
21The wrinkliesE3 5c **11
22Robin HoodVS 4c *23
23HezbollahE6 6b **7
24Little JohnVS 5a 6
25Dougie's RouteHVS 5b *7
26Day of the JockalE2 6a 1
27gorton crackVD *15
28Robert the MooseE4 6a *1
29DuncrankinE4 6a **5
30Harry Dodder's CrackE1 5b *24
31Scots Wha HaeE3 5c 3
32Hoppys least favoriteHS 9
 TRESPASSERS BUTTRESS  
34The Shouting ManE5 6b * 
35Strange ApparatusVS 4c 3
36Two Teir CrackE1 5c  
 LOVER'S LEAP CLIFF  
38Always The SunE5 6b * 
 HANGING ROCK  
40Hanging RockE4 4c ***2
41Give 'em Enough RopeE5 6b ** 
42Deep in DianaHVS 5b *1
43Plunging NecklineE3 5b ** 
44Roslin RouletteE6 6b ***1
45Gaping GabE2 5c ***5
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Neil Mackenzie

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Watch out if park at the official Midlothian Roslin Glen car park (NT278628) as it is properly locked after 20:00 at night! Also, no sign of any new paths east side - still a full on bush whack the earlier you leave the road. Go right up the road and round the fields.
timlukins - 25/May/12
looks better than previously as there appears to be a new path built on that side of the river.... have been plannin an exploratory trip in the next couple of weeks, so ill report back, or your welcome to come join. but everything down there is always a bit of an adventure so beware
Neil Mackenzie - 20/Mar/11
Anyone know what the access is like for Hanging Rock these days?
Dr Toph - 20/Mar/11
Definitely a worthwhile place to climb, some good fun routes on fairly good rock. The small road between Rosewell and Roslin is closed due to land slip but there are other roads. Good evening venue in a picturesque setting.
rob askew - 10/May/10
Jumbo's Bum is worthwhile as a top-roping venue for open minded climbers looking to get away from the monotony of south quarry visits. A few hard climbs on interesting rock with really interesting moves to work away at over a few visits (sort of long bouldering problems on a rope). Great place to get strong and only a pound on the bus!!!! (no. 15). Lovely setting too.
camw - 23/Mar/08
Visited Feb 2007. What a desperate venue! You'd be mad to climb on anything other than the Elephants Bum crag, and even that requires baws of steel. A limited top-rope venue or one for the psychotic with a death wish!
220bpm - 31/May/07
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 12/Jun/2013
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