UKC

Climbs 68
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces S

View Stats

Jammin © andymoin

Crag features

Despite the grotty-ness of this quarry, the distractions of the M90 and the paintwork on the rock, it's not actually a bad place to climb.

Some decent routes - dries quickly. Worth a visit but take a rope bag - there is a lot of broken glass lying around.

Woulnd't hurt bringing a bin bag along and helping clearing out all the rubbish.

 

Approach notes

Park in Rosyth on Admiralty Rd near M90 roundabout (56.036628, -3.409293). Take care crossing road!

5 mins walk in. Or park in Inverkeithing and approach from the top. The crag is also easily accessible by train from Edinburgh, there is a station in Inverkeithing.

No Access Issues

No access issues.

Fire that was underneath STY slab has been cleared up, as has a lot of the rubbish and broken glass that was lying about. Ropebags still recommended, but it is a lot nicer than it used to be.
Strider42 - 03/Mar/21
Went to Rosyth today as it was dry. Unfortunately some folks had a bonfire there recently just underneath some of the easier routes (Jack's route I think?). There's way more broken glass now than there was before. Definitely bring a rope bag with you
laviathan - 07/Nov/20
The very large and very unstable block in between Hands Off and You Jist Took That Too Far was removed today, it was very dangerous and came away with very little effort. I imagine it changes the grade of the E1 as the climbing is now fairly unprojected!
Shed - 19/Jul/15
Jammed cams in Heathy removed 3/6/2014. Please try not to get anymore stuck. The cams I removed were both Wild Country size 1.
Fiona Reid - 03/Jun/14
This lovely quarry is now a total dump due to illegal disposal of waste. Been there today and there is a burnt bicycle there, a metal bed frame and lots of rubbish around. Too bad really, the council or climbers should clean it up.
RomTheBear - 21/Apr/14
First time yesterday and was pleasantly surprised. Rock is sound for the most part while the kit depends on the route with some being very good while others are slightly more adventurous. If this place was cleaned out it would be really good.
CyberTaff - 09/Sep/13
Belay stakes could do with being replaced. I gave one above Cathy/Heathy a couple of taps and it fell out completely, was fairly rusted and only buried about a foot deep. The white one beside it seemed a bit more resilient but would be wary about using it!
CMcBain - 08/Apr/12
Youtube footage of Rosyth Quarry. http://youtu.be/AVOx60XYHsY
Denpov - 02/Oct/11
Rock fall leads to injury of belayed at Crag. Climb - Brocken pillar Top roping. A large rock (about the size of a head) came dislodged and fell just missing the belayed but bouncing off the ground and injuring her leg badly enough to warrant a trip to hospital and some stitches. I provided treatment, and recommended the casualty be taken to hospital. The following mistakes where made by that groups leader. 1. They had no first aid kit. 2. No helmets had been supplied by the leader. 3. When swapping the belayed over, he completely unclipped her before then re-clipped into his own harness to lower the climber, (leaving the climbing completely unsecure). 4. The route selection was a poor choice given the large amount of rock fall in that area, esp. given that the clients had never climbed out doors before. 5. They insisted on moving the casualty before having given enough time to rest and against my judgement. These mistakes should be learned from, I don’t say them to insult, I put them up hear as reminders as to how small mistakes could potential lead to fatal consequences. Have fun, but be safe.
smile - 08/Jul/11
nice enough quarry with a good view, love the rock and the routes
franksnb - 22/Aug/10
Got my anchor equipment stolen here at the weekend after abseiling & leaving it unattended for around 5mins. Won't be going back here!
Pete23 - 16/Mar/10
A lot of silly eliminates squeezed in here, definitely milking a manky little quarry for all it's worth!
Andy Moles - 23/Feb/10
Airguns and flying fridges seem to be out this year, but quadbikes are most definitely in. This doesn't help communication between leader and second, although access around some of the usually more overgrown parts of the quarry seem to have been helped by the new quadbike width tracks.
JiveWeasel - 03/May/09
Watch out for toaster sized loose block/flake on the left of Tin/Gold Foil, at about five metres up. I tried to knock it off for safety sake, but it's stubborn. Not stubborn enough to trust pro behind, though. Be careful :)
weedom - 29/Jun/08
Not a great venue but still worth a visit as there are some worthwhile climbs. Bring lots of small cams if you have them. Beware of rock throwing neds- they will brain you with any projectiles that come to hand. Those anchor stakes are a bit dodgy too!!
camw - 23/Jun/06
The Waullie (HVS 5b) is awesome, Heathy and Cathy (VS4C) are great but one of them feels that grade, the other feels a lot worse, but I'll not say which! Worth a visit despite the drawbacks which become obvious when you get there. Good for soloing/bouldering stuff.
nickinscottishmountains - 22/May/05
Protection not brilliant on easier climbs but improves with difficulty. If you climb HVS then do The Waullie (5b). Best route in the quarry. Stakes in place to belay but beware of glass/rock throwing neds with pyromanical tendancies.
Rooster - 26/May/03
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
Please Login or Register to log routes or add them to your wishlist
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Alasdair Lowe

Loading Notifications...