Nearside/Junction Walls

Climbs 54 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 464m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
There are four climbing areas with in this amazing section of the Wadi Shaha. Other then Roadside crag this area is the most convenient trad area in the UAE; directly off of the road. All of the climbs are between 15 and 50m.

Nearside and Junction are on the right side of the road mostly west facing. Nearside is the first set of route on the right side and Junction is a short walk further up the road where the road meets the Wadi on the right. There are 50+ route here that are very well cleaned and protected. With several anchor placements on the cliff to descend from.

Farside is on the left side of the road directly across the street from Nearside. This are has 4 well cleaned and protected trad routes, one trad route that is still open for a FA. There is one 30m sport route; Angle's Way 6a+ that is highly recommended and one 30m mixed sport/trad route; Devil's Slide 6b that is also very nice.

The fourth area is underdevelopment.

Shade depends on the time of day and season. No matter what time of day you will find shade in one of the areas. There is usually a nice mountain breeze flowing through the wadi.


Approach notes

UAE Rock Climbing (2009), United Arab Emirates - A Climbers Guide

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Little Pee DeeHVS 1
3Tim's TippleE1 **4
4Wild GoatHVS  
5SunshadeVS 3
6Pete's CornerHVS 5a **8
7Feathered freindsHVS 5a **5
8Tradistan IncursionE4 ** 
9Spring CleanHVS ** 
10Ooh Aah CantonaE1 ***1
11Pimms in the PoolHVS ***2
12CandymanVS *2
13Cocaine BluesE2 *** 
14Happy WandererVS * 
15Irish Tea PartyVS  
16Neighbour of the BeastVS  
19Armbar LaneE3 ** 
20Rolling StockVS *1
22Easter CrackHVS  
23Boy RacerVS  
24Overhung HangoverHVS  
25Le DetourHVS  
26French ConnectionHVS  
27Rob's DilemmaHVS  
28Pavement Cracks LeftS  
29Pavement Cracks RightVS  
30Barefoot LadyHVS * 
31Chimney CrackVS * 
32A Band of AngelsE2 ** 
33Swing LowVS * 
34Sweet ChariotVS  
35Surgical HandsE4 * 
36Angel DustHVS * 
37Juicy LucyHVS ** 
38Christmas CrackE2  
39Mud BathVS  
40High DiverE1  
41Penny LaneE1 ***1
42Spaghetti JunctionHVS * 
43Chimney Crack 2HVS  
44The SidingsVS 1
45Sidings DirectE3  
46No SpeedingE1 ** 
47LeapfrogHVS ** 
48FireboxE1 * 
49Great WesternHVS 5a ***2
50HighwaymanHVS * 
51Orient ExpressE1 *** 
52The GroinE1 * 
53Angel's Way *6a+ ***3
54Devil' s Slide2 ***1
55Devil's Slide *6b ***1
56Unknown 6c+6c+ **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Lawrie Brand

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