Climbs 54
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 464m a.s.l
Faces W

Abseil off Penny Lane © RAB623

Crag features

There are four climbing areas with in this amazing section of the Wadi Shaha. Other then Roadside crag this area is the most convenient trad area in the UAE; directly off of the road. All of the climbs are between 15 and 50m.

Nearside and Junction are on the right side of the road mostly west facing. Nearside is the first set of route on the right side and Junction is a short walk further up the road where the road meets the Wadi on the right. There are 50+ route here that are very well cleaned and protected. With several anchor placements on the cliff to descend from.

Farside is on the left side of the road directly across the street from Nearside. This are has 4 well cleaned and protected trad routes, one trad route that is still open for a FA. There is one 30m sport route; Angle's Way 6a+ that is highly recommended and one 30m mixed sport/trad route; Devil's Slide 6b that is also very nice.

The fourth area is underdevelopment.

Shade depends on the time of day and season. No matter what time of day you will find shade in one of the areas. There is usually a nice mountain breeze flowing through the wadi.

See: http://www.redarmadapublishing.com/nearside_1.pdf

Approach notes

See: http://www.redarmadapublishing.com/nearside_1.pdf

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Nearside 
2Little Pee Dee
-
HVS 1
3Tim's Tipple
-
E1 **4
4Wild Goat
-
HVS  
5Sunshade
-
VS 3
6Pete's Corner
-
HVS 5a **8
7Feathered freinds
-
HVS 5a **5
8Tradistan Incursion
-
E4 ** 
9Spring Clean
-
HVS ** 
10Ooh Aah Cantona
-
E1 ***1
11Pimms in the Pool
-
HVS ***2
12Candyman
-
VS *2
13Cocaine Blues
-
E2 *** 
14Happy Wanderer
-
VS * 
15Irish Tea Party
-
VS  
16Neighbour of the Beast
-
VS  
17Project
-
M  
 Junction 
19Armbar Lane
-
E3 ** 
20Rolling Stock
-
VS *1
21Clapham
-
HVS  
22Easter Crack
-
HVS  
23Boy Racer
-
VS  
24Overhung Hangover
-
HVS  
25Le Detour
-
HVS  
26French Connection
-
HVS  
27Rob's Dilemma
-
HVS  
28Pavement Cracks Left
-
S  
29Pavement Cracks Right
-
VS  
30Barefoot Lady
-
HVS * 
31Chimney Crack
-
VS * 
32A Band of Angels
-
E2 ** 
33Swing Low
-
VS * 
34Sweet Chariot
-
VS  
35Surgical Hands
-
E4 * 
36Angel Dust
-
HVS * 
37Juicy Lucy
-
HVS ** 
38Christmas Crack
-
E2  
39Mud Bath
-
VS  
40High Diver
-
E1  
41Penny Lane
-
E1 ***1
42Spaghetti Junction
-
HVS * 
43Chimney Crack 2
-
HVS  
44The Sidings
-
VS 1
45Sidings Direct
-
E3  
46No Speeding
-
E1 ** 
47Leapfrog
-
HVS ** 
48Firebox
-
E1 * 
49Great Western
-
HVS 5a ***2
50Highwayman
-
HVS * 
51Orient Express
-
E1 *** 
52The Groin
-
E1 * 
53Angel's Way *6a+ ***3
54Devil' s Slide2 ***1
55Devil's Slide *6b ***1
56Unknown 6c+6c+ **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Lawrie Brand