Salisbury Crags (Edinburgh)

Climbs 124 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 125m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
This striking geological feature overlooking central Edinburgh has been popular with local climbers for generations. The quantity of good climbing is not proportional to the quantity of rock, but its convenience makes it a great resource for Edinburgh climbers, with superb views.

The South Quarry offers some good bouldering and short routes, and is often busy on summer evenings. The steep and polished testpieces of the Black Wall are the highlight, but there is plenty more to play on. From an old guide (http://scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Salisbury_Crags): 'the moves themselves are the aesthetic objective rather than the lines'.

The routes are usually soloed, as protection and belays are generally lacking. The best lines of descent in the quarry are the Moderates, otherwise walk around the long way. Many unlisted routes and variations have also been climbed.

Expect curiosity from tourists.

Access notes
Permission to climb is in theory granted by getting a free pass from the Historic Scotland Park Ranger Service, who hide in a wee glass fronted building behind Holyrood Palace. The requirement of the pass isn't heavily enforced, and because most climbers stick to bouldering in the South Quarry, reports of problems are rare.

Guidebooks
Bouldering in Scotland (2008), Lowland Outcrops (2005),
Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Pic RobbiesonD
2The Great Electrocardiogram TraverseVS 5a
 THE CAT NICK 
4Cat Nick AreteD
5Cat Nick Arete (winter)V 4 *
6The Cat NickM
7The Cat Nick (winter)III **
8Cat Nick ButtressVD
 GREAT QUARRY 
10Transatlantic TripE3 5c
11The Ragged RascalsE3 5c
12Straight SatanE2 5c
13Walking On SunshineE3 6a ***
14Steeplejack's StaircaseE2 5b *
15Election SpecialE2 5c
16Ginger Nymphos LustE2 6a *
17After the AxeE2 5b/c
18The BlackdanceE2 5c **
19Second OffenceE3 5c
20Ped XingE1 5b *
21Walk On ByE2 5a
 GREAT BUTTRESS 
23Great ButtressVD **
 WESTERN BUTTRESS 
25Hewit's GrooveVS 4c
26Horne's SlabVS 5a
27Black CornerHVS 5a *
28Groove RouteVS 4c
29Wall RouteS
30Slab and Wedge RouteVD
 SOUTH QUARRY 
32DoubledeckerS
33Doubledecker VariationVD
34Harrison's ClimbS **
35Archie's SlabHVS 5a *
36Wicked LadyVS 4c **
37Original RouteM
38Original Route DirectVS 4c
39Athlete's AreteHVS 5a
40The Long StrideM *
41The Long Stride VariationVS 5a *
42White SlabVD
43White Slab Aretef3 **
44Rotten OverhangHVS 4b
45Rotten Overhang Traverse Lowf6A+
46Rotten Overhang Traverse Centralf5
47The SplitsS
48Splits Eliminatef6A+
49The Lift AreteVD
50The LiftM *
51Initial RouteVS 5b *
52Structural IntegrityE1 5b **
53Horrible HookVS 4c
54Red SlabD *
55Hyphen RouteHVS 5a *
56Black SlabS **
57Black Slab Eliminatef5+
58Idle GossipE3 5c *
59Clown Army and the Riot PolisHVS 5a **
60Spike FrightHVS 5a *
61A Nightmare of White ApplesE2 5b *
62Notch ClimbS
63Recess ClimbS *
64Recess Climb VariationVS 4c
65Graham's RouteS *
66Rib and MantelshelfS
67Sentry BoxS *
68Hanging SlabS *
69Roofer MadnessHVS 5a
70Roofer Traversef6A+
71Roofer Right Handf6A+
72Roofer Wallf4
73Black ChimneyS *
 THE LITTLE BLACK WALL 
75Little Black Wall Traversef6A+ **
76Sidepull Eliminatef6B *
77The Flakef4+
78Crimp Eliminatef6A+
79The Juggy Undercutf4+
 THE BLACK WALL 
81The Black Wall Traversef6C+ ***
82Black Wall Traverse (L-R low start)f7A **
83Black Wall Traverse (L-R low)f7B **
84Black Wall Traverse (R-L)f6C+ **
85Black Wall Traverse (R-L low)f7B **
86Black Wall, Left Wall Directf6B
87Black Wall, Layback Problemf6B *
88Black Wall, Layback Problem Directf6B *
89Black Wall, Press Problemf6C+ **
90The Shieldf6C **
91Black Wall, 'M' problemf6B *
92Black Wall, Central Wall Eliminatef6C **
93Black Wall, Central Highball Problemf6B **
94Black Wall, Right Wall Problemf6A *
95Black Wall, Right Wall Problem Eliminatef7A *
96Black Wall Aretef4+
 EASTERN BUTTRESS 
98Black Chimney ButtressVD *
99Recess Traversef6A
100Slab Eliminatef6A+
101Hanging Nosef4
102Eastern Buttress Face RouteVD
103Juggy Traversef6A
104Non-Juggy Traversef6B+
105The Bulgef6B
106Slap Slap Slapf6C+ **
107Overhang Problemf6A *
 MIDDLE QUARRY 
109ButterflyS
110Toujours Tout DroitVS 4c
111Tournez en Face a ma GaucheS
112The SlantD
113Centre SlabM *
 PINNACLE QUARRY 
115The Conflict with TemptationS
116FalsefaceS
117Pinnacle FaceVD *
118Pinnacle CornerVD
119Pinnacle Corner VariationS
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Easy traverse bouldering around the majority of the quarry and original trad routes are soloable for those with the balls. The highlight is the black wall which provides several excellent polished testpieces.
doug5_10 - 25/Apr/07
Lots of polished traverse bouldering at all grades. Can get a little busy during the summer but there is a good vibe between all climbers. Expect an audience of gawping tourists and neds.
camw - 23/Jun/06
75m of easy bouldering on three elevations 25m of hard bouldering on one elevation Beware Neds from above
220bpm - 04/Jul/03