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Salisbury Crags (Edinburgh)Midlothian, SCOTLAND
Climbs 124 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 125m a.s.l – Faces SW
The South Quarry offers some good bouldering and short routes, and is often busy on summer evenings. The steep and polished testpieces of the Black Wall are the highlight, but there is plenty more to play on. From an old guide (http://scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Salisbury_Crags): 'the moves themselves are the aesthetic objective rather than the lines'.
The routes are usually soloed, as protection and belays are generally lacking. The best lines of descent in the quarry are the Moderates, otherwise it's a long walk round. Many unlisted routes and variations have also been climbed.
Expect curiosity from tourists.
Climbs at this crag
Permission to climb is in theory granted by getting a free pass from the Historic Scotland Park Ranger Service, who hide in a wee glass fronted building behind Holyrood Palace. The requirement of the pass isn't heavily enforced, and because most climbers stick to bouldering in the South Quarry, reports of problems are rare.