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These details were last updated on 26/Jun/2012

Salisbury Crags (Edinburgh)

Midlothian, SCOTLAND

Climbs 124 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 125m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
This striking geological feature overlooking central Edinburgh has been popular with local climbers for generations. The quantity of good climbing is not proportional to the quantity of rock, but its convenience makes it a great resource for Edinburgh climbers, with superb views.

The South Quarry offers some good bouldering and short routes, and is often busy on summer evenings. The steep and polished testpieces of the Black Wall are the highlight, but there is plenty more to play on. From an old guide (http://scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Salisbury_Crags): 'the moves themselves are the aesthetic objective rather than the lines'.

The routes are usually soloed, as protection and belays are generally lacking. The best lines of descent in the quarry are the Moderates, otherwise it's a long walk round. Many unlisted routes and variations have also been climbed.

Expect curiosity from tourists.

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Cairngorms & Monadhliath

Guidebooks
Bouldering in Scotland (2008), Lowland Outcrops (2005),
Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Pic RobbiesonD 2
2The Great Electrocardiogram TraverseVS 5a  
 THE CAT NICK  
4Cat Nick AreteD 1
5Cat Nick Arete (winter)V 4 *2
6The Cat NickM 4
7The Cat Nick (winter)III **15
8Cat Nick ButtressVD 1
 GREAT QUARRY  
10Transatlantic TripE3 5c  
11The Ragged RascalsE3 5c  
12Straight SatanE2 5c 1
13Walking On SunshineE3 6a ***1
14Steeplejack's StaircaseE2 5b *2
15Election SpecialE2 5c  
16Ginger Nymphos LustE2 6a *1
17After the AxeE2 5b/c 1
18The BlackdanceE2 5c ** 
19Second OffenceE3 5c  
20Ped XingE1 5b * 
21Walk On ByE2 5a  
 GREAT BUTTRESS  
23Great ButtressVD **3
 WESTERN BUTTRESS  
25Hewit's GrooveVS 4c  
26Horne's SlabVS 5a 1
27Black CornerHVS 5a * 
28Groove RouteVS 4c  
29Wall RouteS  
30Slab and Wedge RouteVD  
 SOUTH QUARRY  
32DoubledeckerS 1
33Doubledecker VariationVD  
34Harrison's ClimbS **2
35Archie's SlabHVS 5a *1
36Wicked LadyVS 4c **14
37Original RouteM 11
38Original Route DirectVS 4c 2
39Athlete's AreteHVS 5a 15
40The Long StrideM *8
41The Long Stride VariationVS 5a *14
42White SlabVD 39
43White Slab Aretefont 3 **10
44Rotten OverhangHVS 4b 4
45Rotten Overhang Traverse Lowf6A+ 20
46Rotten Overhang Traverse Centralfont 5 13
47The SplitsS 7
48Splits Eliminatef6A+ 8
49The Lift AreteVD 26
50The LiftM *41
51Initial RouteVS 5b *11
52Structural IntegrityE1 5b **1
53Horrible HookVS 4c 5
54Red SlabD *24
55Hyphen RouteHVS 5a *8
56Black SlabS **18
57Black Slab Eliminatefont 5+ 13
58Idle GossipE3 5c *8
59Clown Army and the Riot PolisHVS 5a **3
 Climb nameGradex
60Spike FrightHVS 5a *9
61Notch ClimbS 6
62Recess ClimbS *17
63Recess Climb VariationVS 4c 3
64Graham's RouteS *15
65Rib and MantelshelfS 9
66Sentry BoxS *11
67Hanging SlabS *16
68Roofer MadnessHVS 5a 1
69Roofer Traversef6A+ 27
70Roofer Right Handf6A+ 11
71Roofer Wallfont 4 1
72Black ChimneyS *11
 THE LITTLE BLACK WALL  
74Little Black Wall Traversef6A+ **34
75Sidepull Eliminatef6B *5
76The Flakefont 4+ 16
77Crimp Eliminatef6A+ 8
78The Juggy Undercutfont 4+ 12
 THE BLACK WALL  
80The Black Wall Traversef6C+ ***91
81Black Wall Traverse (L-R low start)f7A **9
82Black Wall Traverse (L-R low)f7B **4
83Black Wall Traverse (R-L)f6C+ **17
84Black Wall Traverse (R-L low)f7B **5
85Black Wall, Left Wall Directf6B 11
86Black Wall, Layback Problemf6B *15
87Black Wall, Layback Problem Directf6B *6
88Black Wall, Press Problemf6C+ **4
89The Shieldf6C **3
90Black Wall, 'M' problemf6B *12
91Black Wall, Central Wall Eliminatef6C **3
92Black Wall, Central Highball Problemf6B **12
93Black Wall, Right Wall Problemf6A *23
94Black Wall, Right Wall Problem Eliminatef7A *6
95Black Wall Aretefont 4+ 31
 EASTERN BUTTRESS  
97Black Chimney ButtressVD *4
98Recess Traversef6A 13
99Slab Eliminatef6A+ 8
100Hanging Nosefont 4 7
101Eastern Buttress Face RouteVD 2
102Juggy Traversef6A 20
103Non-Juggy Traversef6B+ 9
104The Bulgef6B 5
105Slap Slap Slapf6C+ **1
106Overhang Problemf6A *9
 MIDDLE QUARRY  
108ButterflyS  
109Toujours Tout DroitVS 4c  
110Tournez en Face a ma GaucheS  
111The SlantD  
112Centre SlabM *6
 PINNACLE QUARRY  
114The Conflict with TemptationS 3
115FalsefaceS  
116Pinnacle FaceVD *6
117Pinnacle CornerVD 4
118Pinnacle Corner VariationS 1
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Access notes
Permission to climb is in theory granted by getting a free pass from the Historic Scotland Park Ranger Service, who hide in a wee glass fronted building behind Holyrood Palace. The requirement of the pass isn't heavily enforced, and because most climbers stick to bouldering in the South Quarry, reports of problems are rare.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Easy traverse bouldering around the majority of the quarry and original trad routes are soloable for those with the balls. The highlight is the black wall which provides several excellent polished testpieces.
doug5_10 - 25/Apr/07

Lots of polished traverse bouldering at all grades. Can get a little busy during the summer but there is a good vibe between all climbers. Expect an audience of gawping tourists and neds.
camw - 23/Jun/06

75m of easy bouldering on three elevations 25m of hard bouldering on one elevation Beware Neds from above
220bpm - 04/Jul/03