Climbs 58
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

Bomber © SeánM

Crag features

The crag lies at the western tip of Youghal Bay, and lies 8 km south of Youghal town as the crow flies. The rock is categorized as Gyleen Formation - sandstone, with mudstone and siltstone and, in general, is sound, with good friction and good gear placements. As with all sea-cliffs, the more open the rock is to the scouring power of the waves, the cleaner and sounder it is. The main type of climbing on offer is on slabs, with the occasional steep wall thrown in for good measure.

The climbing areas, and the climbs within each area, are described from west to east (left to right, facing in).

There are still a number of areas untouched.

This marks the western limits of the climbing area, approx. 500m westof the tower (about 6 - 8 minutes walk).

Approach notes

Approach. Leave the Youghal/Cork road a little west of Youghal, signpost for Gortroe, and head for the village of Ballymacoda. Follow the road through the village towards Knockadoon Pier (which is where the road ends). At a distance of less than 500m from the pier take a dirt road on the right (signpost for Knockadoon Camp). Follow the laneway to where it ends in a field in front of an old tower. Cars may be parked just inside the field. Although this is private land there are no access problems at present and, if climbers behave responsibly, this situation should remain unchanged.

Accommodation. The nearest hostel is in Youghal, on the Cork side of the town - Evergreen House, phone 024 92877,


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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Crack of DoonS 2
2No TollVS 4c 3

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