Limited but enjoyable climbing. Routes from 3 to Font 7a+.
Routes are slightly overgrown at top but the rock is generally sound. Quarry consists of main face and two side walls. The main face is roughly 8-9m high with several cracks, left wall has two chimney routes (4a and 5a) and the right wall offers various routes as well (though most are overgrown in summer). Bouldering is possible but hindered by rocky landing on some routes (plenty of mats and spotters needed). Graffiti on main wall suggests potential conflict of usage between climbers and local kids.
Access to the top of the crag can be made by following the path up the right of the crag, then round through the trees. A Gap in the fence allows access to the top of the routes.
The fence is generally sound for anchoring, although it is some distance from the cliff face.
A Tree on the left (looking from below)is also fairly sound.
Parking is best on Seil Drive, just 2 seconds round the corner from the crag. Try not to block the junction with Old Castle Road as it's a tight one at the best of times!
From the stairs at Cathcart Train Station, turn left down the pedestrian tunnel. Left again up Delvin Road, then straight over the junction to Old Castle Road. Follow Old Castle road uphill, past the Old Smiddy Pub, untill it's juction with Seil Drive. The quarry is behind railings on left just before Seil Drive. It is NOT in Linn Park as some guides suggest but instead lies directly opposite the entrance to the park.
|1||There is no spoon||f7A+ ***||2|
|2||Blue Tit's Nest Crack||V1 5a *||16|
|3||Girdle Traverse||V1 5b||8|
|4||Wullie's Crack||V1 5a *||20|
|6||Layback Crack||V0 4c||12|
|7||Coleptra Crack||VB 3b||15|
|8||Snowy's Big Traverse||V4 6b||7|
|9||Thin Finger's Crack||E1 5c||7|
|10||Last Route||none 4a||13|
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Denpov - 14/Aug/10