Cambusbarron Quarry (aka Thorntons Quarry)

Climbs 61 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
The old or closed quarry - "Cambusbarron Quarry" is now referred to as "Thornton's Quarry" in the most recent SMC guide.

The new/open quarry "Cambusbarron West" is now referred to as Fourth Quarry.

High standard single pitch routes and a few good boulder problems.

Very sheltered, catches evening sun in summer.

However, the closed quarry is seldom dry in winter.

Must Dos :

Big Country Dreams - E4 6a

Both Ends Burning - E5 6b

The Purr-Blind Doomster - E5 6a

Spanking the Monkey - font 7a

Monkey Spanking - font 7b

Access notes
Limited parking - park with consideration

Lowland Outcrops (2005),
Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
31Both Ends BurningE5 6b ***14
32Fuel for ThoughtE3 5c 1
33The CrowdE6 6a/b 2
34Running on MethaneE4 6a 2
35Murray's GrooveE2 5c 1
36Auto GiroE6 6c *1
37Adulterer's RepentanceE3 5c  
38Economy DriveE3 6a ** 
39ContortionismE6 6c  
40Anabolic SteroidsE6 6b *1
41LDVf4 *22
42Spanking the Monkeyf7A ***30
43Monkey Spankingf7B ***3
44Jerkin' the Gherkinf6C+ **2
45The BustupVS 4c  
46Cybersex 5E6 6b/c * 
47NandraloneE8 6c *** 
48Anger ManagementE5 6b ** 
49Bobbin RobinE2 5b 2
50TrailblazerE2 5c **16
51Gun FuryE2 5c 3
52PathfinderE1 5b *7
53Left Slanting Crackf6A *1
54Phantom PowerE1 5b 3
55Dr. Dre's OrgasmatronE3 5c *4
56Snatcher's Oblivionf6A+ **1
57Auroras Encoref5+ **1
58Western Blocf5+ *1
59Stumpy Cornerf4 1
60Stumpy Arêtef4+ 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
First time in the quarry today and we enjoyed (there are more climbs in my grade S - VS4c here than in the Fourth quarry). Rock is sound but needs a good clean and there are lots of bugs (Tash didn't enjoy them). Could really benefit from removing some of the trees (vegetation in general) to allow some light in to dry the walls after rain. Will be back!!
CyberTaff - 02/Aug/12
Youtube view of this venue but not very clear due to the amount of trees.
Denpov - 14/Feb/11
Worth noting that Spanking The Monkey is more like Font 6c-ish, not Font 7b. It was given E5 6a originally, and English 6a is nowhere near Font 7b. It's actually English 6b, therefore Font 6c-ish. *** and great fun.
Fiend - 23/Feb/10
'Thornton's Quarry', as it is known locally, is as intimidating as it is excellent. If you are unused to the rock-type it is well worth serving an apprenticeship in the neighbouring 'Fourth Quarry', which is better suited to lower to mid grade climbers, before taking on the challenges presented by such classics as 'Big Country Dreams', 'The Purr-Blind Doomster' or 'Nandralone'. Your efforts will be well rewarded in both the venues!
dodfoster - 15/May/06