Climbs 75
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 352m a.s.l

El Diente © Warren Earle

Crag features

A wonderfully atmospheric large mountain crag set in a beautiful rural setting. The climbing varies from single pitch sports climbs to long semi equipped trad routes.

One of the main features of the cliff is the large impressive detached pinnacle of El Diente easily located to the right of Pared Gris. The five routes which reach the summit are fully bolted and new abseil chains have been installed on the top in Feb 2011, The abseil into the breche only requires a 60 metres rope as there is another abseil point on the opposite wall.

Approach notes

From Cieza take the C330 towards Mula. To avoid Cieza town centre take the second exit off the Murcia-Albacete dual carriageway. At the roundabout ignore the Cieza sign and take the 1st exit towards Ascoy. At the junction turn left, go under the railway bridge and continue into Cieza passing a Renault dealership to your left. At the traffic lights (large Mercadona sign on your left) turn right. Ignore a right turn which is sign posted Caravaca. Go through a narrowing which is controlled by traffic lights and cross the bridge over the Rio Segura. After 4k take a right turn signposted Embalse del Quipar. At 10k after passing Sector El Puente there is a left fork going to the Embalse Delcarcabo. Just after this turning is a dirt road signposted Fuente Delobispo. Take this track for about 2k, turn left at a small white monument (well?) and then the next forestry track on right. Look for cairns which mark the paths up to the different sector

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Sector Dracula 
2Hijos el Agobio
-
7b+  
3Cholun Bolon
-
Project  
4Gato Volador
-
Project  
5El Ya Ya
-
8b  
6Pervertida
-
8a+  
7Rarezas
-
8b  
8Chupa Sangre
-
8a  
9Objetivo Hussein
-
8a  
10La Embrujada de los Necios
-
8b  
11La Noche me Confunde
-
8b+  
12Brakulhez
-
7b  
13Parretoski
-
6c+  
14Parre y Cas
-
6a  
15La Guarra
-
5c  
16Suenos Humedas
-
Project  
17Almejas y Mejillones
-
8a+  
 Sector La Balsa 
19Chocolate con churros
-
6a+  
20Tatuaje solar
-
6a+  
21Morocco
-
6a+ ** 
22Confesiones
-
5a  
23San Patras
-
4c  
 Pared Primera 
25Arista Sur
-
VS 4c  
26Diagonal
-
HVS 5a  
27Espolon Directo
-
VS 4c  
 Sector Dartanan 
29Escritura y Condena
-
6b  
30La Primera
-
6b+  
31Sin nombre
-
6b+  
32Sin Nombre
-
6c+  
33Sin Nombre (un-named)
-
7a  
34Echa le chapas
-
7a+  
35ia Mimor
-
7b  
36no name A
-
7b  
37no name B
-
7c  
38no name C
-
7b  
 Pared Gris 
40Mochilo
-
5a  
41Pincho
-
5a  
42Gazpacho
-
5a  
43Bueno y que
-
VS  
44Melomania
-
HVS 5a  
45Sol Azul
-
HVS 5a  
46Misterio en la oscuridad
-
HVS  
47La pesadilla del Fricli
-
E3 5c  
48Amanecer en Tripoli
-
E4 6a  
49FierabrasE4 6a  
50Don Quijote6a+  
51Viaje al moro
-
6b  
 Sector La Encia 
53Nudos
-
3+  
54El tren de la bruja
-
4c  
55Crisis
-
6a  
56Tabula rasa
-
6a+  
57Cristales rotos
-
5a  
58Seis b,je,je
-
7a+  
59Cronos
-
5c  
 El Diente 
61Arista
-
5a 1
62Libertad6b+  
63Arco Iris
-
5a  
64Sinfonia Alpina
-
6b  
65Correcaminos
-
5a  
 Pared Roja 
67InnocenciaE2 5c  
68Sendro en el tiempoE2 5c  
69Espolon InauguralE1 5c  
70Olivas NegrasE1 5b  
 Pared de En Medio 
72Via de los PepesE1 5b  
73Valle de Ricote6b  
74Pilar de CagitanE1 5b  
 Torre Nocturna 
76La cola del dragon
-
HVS 5a  
77Espolon Nocturno
-
VS 4c  
 Sector Circo Oriental 
79SiberiaVS 4c  
 Sector Piruli 
81Crak obvia
-
6b  
82Via de los Juanjos5c  
83Corretones
-
4c  
 Torres del Carcabo 
85Brecha del Quipar
-
3  
86Brecha del indio
-
VS 4b/4c  
87Fisura Cherokee
-
6b  
88Tomahawk
-
6a  
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