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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SJ 297917 (OS Landranger #108)

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These details were last updated on 07/Jun/2008

The Breck

Merseyside, ENGLAND

Climbs 81 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
The obvious feature to aim for is the Granny rock, an isolated pinnacle with an easy front and somewhat harder back side. Grades vary from VB to V10. Some excellent traverses and eliminates, the steeper side is decorated with graffiti some of which is more erudite than others but beware of "Big Prawn". There is, occasionally, broken glass at the bottom of the routes and this is periodically swept away by locals, however.

Opposite the Granny is the Blubell wall; this is the principal bouldering area. Although the wall seeps in places the climbing is superbly technical, extremely fingery, and not forgiving. Non-eliminates range from V0 to V7, whilst the Bluebell traverse is a must-do incredibly recalcitrant English 5C/6A though there may be a couple of 6B moves.

Facing Bluebell wall and going right through the trees, an easier square shaped slabby wall emerges. This is the Who wall (aka Eagle Rock). Here, slabbier problems/routes are the order of the day, and are juggy in comparison to the rest.

Down and right is the overhanging wall. This has old bolts set at the top for toproping; the problems/routes here are excellent and well worth the trouble, being of an extremely hard nature. The grades from english 5C to english 7A, which probably just warrants French bouldering 8A.

Regular use will give you steel fingers and make you as strong as an ox.

If it was good enough for Al Rouse.......

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Guidebooks
Cheshire & Merseyside Sandstone (2012),
Out of print: Sandstone Climbing in Cheshire and Merseyside (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 GRANNY ROCK  
2Granny Easy WayVB 3a 1
3Granny Left AreteVB 3c 1
4The CrackV0- 3b 1
5Central RouteV0- 3a 1
6Egg ScoopV0- 3b 1
7Right WallV0- 3b 1
8Left AreteV1 4c *1
9AlV1 5a *1
10The Granny's ChairV0 4c *12
11AntimacassarV0- 4b *11
12Left Arete (north Face)V0- 3b *33
13Inside Left (north Face)V0- 4c *32
14Five A or C (north Face)V1 5a 20
15Sledge ClimbV1 5c 17
16Ledge Climb (north Face)V1 5b **21
17Slot Pocket (north Face)V3 5c *14
18Twin Pocket (north Face)V2 5c 7
19Route 66 (north Face)V6 6b *1
20Granny Rock High TraverseV1 5b **13
21The Positron TraverseV3 6a ***13
22Granny Rock Ground Level TraverseV6 6b *1
23Greg's TraverseV8 7a *1
24Phil's RouteV3 6a **1
25Old ShepV5 6b **1
26The BrundleflyV8+ **1
 BLUEBELL WALL  
28Pond LifeV0 5a  
29Crack and ScoopV0 4c  
30RampageV0 5a  
31FremantelV0 5a  
32Chickens ScoopV2 5c  
33Tony's WallV4 6b  
34Bluebell Wall DescentV0- 3c 7
35Hairy IreneV0 5a  
36Hairy Mary (Bluebell Wall Route 1)V1 5a *6
37Bluebell CrackV0 5a *14
38Knuckle SuckV2 5c *4
39FaganV0 5a 3
40MelancholyV2 5c *6
41The Vibrato (Bluebell Wall Route 6)V2 5c 4
42No RebateV2 5c 6
43Flake RouteV3 6a *1
 Climb nameGradex
44Flying VV5 6b  
45Lightning Crack (Bluebell Wall Route 10)V3 6a ***2
46Half NelsonV3 6a *2
47Armlock Crack (Bluebell Wall Route 12)V3 5c *8
48Concrete WallV2 5c **5
49PostieV3 6a *2
50The Eyes (Bluebell Wall Route 15)V4 6a 2
51The Star Route (Bluebell Wall Route 16)V2 5c 2
52Ant Crack (Bluebell Wall Route 17)V3 5c **2
53Quercus's CornerV1 5b 1
54Green AreteV1 5b  
55Scotch CornerV0- 4c  
56Bluebell Wall Top Break TraverseV3 5c  
57Bluebell Wall "6a'' TraverseV7 6b ***1
58Bluebell Wall Super Lower TraverseV2 5c  
 EAGLE ROCK  
60Who Wall Route 1VB 4c 34
61Who Wall Route 2VB 5a 32
62Who Wall Route 3VB 4c 30
63Central Wall (Who Wall Route 4)V3 6a **23
64Who Wall Route 5VB 4b 27
65Mossy Wall (Who Wall Route 6)V4 6b *8
66Who Wall Route 7VB 5b 19
67Who Wall Route 8VB 4b 15
68Between the GreenV3 5c *6
69Boiler Plate SlabV2 5c *2
70Boiler Plate Slab High TraverseV2 5b 2
71Boiler Plate Slab Mid TraverseV1 5b *5
72Mammoth TraverseV3 5c 2
 OVERHANGING WALL  
74Tom's RouteV3 6b  
75Fighting TansV4 6b  
76Woman's WeeklyV4 6b  
77In The JungleV5 6b *1
78Overhanging Wall DirectV7 6c  
79Pilli WinksV10 7a  
80In The Jungle DirectV7 6c **1
81Greasy Cobweb CrackV3 5c  
82Flash In The PanV4 6b  
83UnknownV3 5c  
84The Breakfast LineV10 7a  
85Haston DynoV10  
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Access notes
Come off the M53 at the dock exit Turn left at the roundabout then left at the lights onto Breck road. Past the school on the left and park up near the Ship Inn Public house. The quarry is accessed by a concrete staircase sloping right at the side of the pub RH as you face it.

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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer duncanmartin ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Actually fell in love with this place thismornin, wish i had started goin along time ago
phil_freeman ? - 06/Mar/10

There is now a Facebook group for those who use it. http://www.facebook.com/#!/group.php?gid=20733733642&ref=ts
gary.barr ? - 01/Mar/10

is there any online topos of the venue or any guide books with it in..
phil_freeman ? - 24/Feb/10

Would it be at all possible for anyone who wishes to make comments about the urbanity of this (or any other venue) to read the comments below, and realise that, yes, we know! Thank you! We've done that. Now, perhaps we can talk about the climbing...
duncanmartin ? - 10/May/09

I’m climbing there very frequently now. My fingertips were going red going on purple after my last session! Great place and great for finger workouts. Just take a mat as it’s mainly highballing.
gary.barr - 28/May/08

i have been meaning to get over here and check it out, seeing as i live in Eastham, but then there is irby aswell so save the gear gettin robbed and a wee hospital trip and head over to irby. if it was more closer like in bromborough or somet, then i would make the most off it!
phil_freeman - 14/Dec/07

this is where i spent my miss guided childhood bunking off from mosslands school just down the roads. after 4 years of going every dinner time and weekends, when i left and joined the navy i ended up getting into the portsmouth climbing team and was very well regarded. for me, this is such a great place to get to the roots of climbing. stamina and technique learnt the old fashion way without gadgets, just some old fashion finger bashin'! i have been out of it for a few years now(the beer demon came and took me) and i am starting at the roots again now im out of the forces. like the guide book say, its a fiver in a pile of crap....
rudeymike - 19/Jul/07

Because, Gregm, it's a great place to go in the evening, can be part of an overall training program with Frodsham and Pex, doesn't involve miles of unnecessary driving if you're local, is free, and is outside. But of course, if you're scared of a few kids...
duncanmartin - 25/May/07

Dive, why bother?
Craigm411 - 26/Mar/07

I learnt to climb here in the 60's along with a lad who lived down the road from me, went by the name of Al Rouse, he showed a bit of potential even tho he was a couple of years younger than me. We used to wear pumps that we wore for gym at school. Very happy days, it's sad to hear of the grafitti and glass, will go back and have a look next time I am in Wallasey seeing my Mum.
Scally - 28/Nov/06

my local crag, it turns out- just stuck a sodding great piece of glass in my finger when i grabbed a hold- toothbrush reccommended...
greggle - 01/Aug/06

i couldnt agree more with the comment about glass and dog muck also i wouldnt reccomend being there in the dark unless u take a bat as there is loads of gangs hanging around who frighten the life outta most people.
dominic heaney - 31/Dec/05