Provides some hard routes in a superb setting.
The Midden stack gives an entertaining, but hard, sea stack climb.
Park before Dowlaw farm. Take care not to block exits.
Bird ban 1st April - 31st Aug
Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)
|1||Mea Culpa *||E3 6a *||1|
|2||Enigma *||E2 5c *||1|
|3||Curve of the Earth *||E2 5c||1|
|4||Turning in-tide-out *||E2 5c *||1|
|5||Starboard Bow *||E2 5c||1|
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|Parking in the wee quarry, dont follow the SMC guide directions, but jump over the wall corner to your left, go down the field edge, through the gate, follow the path down until the field opens out, then cut diagonally rightwards to the opposite corner of the field. Less fence/wall jumping required. From the concrete fencepost the decent to the right is epic 45-degree bracken. There is a rocky ridge straight ahead that is good for coming back up rather than bushwhacking back up the bracken slope again.
Lovely remote spot, but take care with the rock especially on the top of the stack. Abseil pegs very dubious (two of them positively suicidal) and many loose blocks. We left a sling and crab around the largest, but it would be better with a length of static rope looped around it I think.|
Dr Toph - 14/Aug/14