Midden Crag (Fastcastle)

Climbs 10 – Rocktype Greywacke – Altitude ? – Faces E

Crag features
Provides some hard routes in a superb setting.

The Midden stack gives an entertaining, but hard, sea stack climb.

Approach notes
Park before Dowlaw farm. Take care not to block exits.


Bird ban 1st April - 31st Aug


Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Mea Culpa *E3 6a *1
2Enigma *E2 5c *1
3Curve of the Earth *E2 5c 1
4Turning in-tide-out *E2 5c *1
5Starboard Bow *E2 5c 1
6Constant Hunger *E4 6a 1
7Inferno *E3 5c 1
8Welcome to the Midden *E3 5c 1
9Port Bow *E1 5b 3
10Lunar Pull *E3 5c 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Parking in the wee quarry, dont follow the SMC guide directions, but jump over the wall corner to your left, go down the field edge, through the gate, follow the path down until the field opens out, then cut diagonally rightwards to the opposite corner of the field. Less fence/wall jumping required. From the concrete fencepost the decent to the right is epic 45-degree bracken. There is a rocky ridge straight ahead that is good for coming back up rather than bushwhacking back up the bracken slope again. Lovely remote spot, but take care with the rock especially on the top of the stack. Abseil pegs very dubious (two of them positively suicidal) and many loose blocks. We left a sling and crab around the largest, but it would be better with a length of static rope looped around it I think.
Dr Toph - 14/Aug/14