Climbs 65
Rocktype Greywacke
Altitude 1m a.s.l
Faces E

On The Souter after a day of rain dodging! © MightyStew

Crag features

The area around the Souter sea-stack gives some excellent sea-cliff climbing. A great venue for the mid extreme leader!

Must Dos :

Skate Bush, E7, 6b, Squid Vicious E5 6a, Puffer Daddy, E3 6a, Fast Bleeder E3 6a, Take It To The Limpets E3 5c, Wallnut E3 5c, Plain sailing E1 5b, The Souter, Ordinary Route HVS 5a, Second Sight HVS 5a.

Contrary to the guide, The Wedge is non-tidal, Limpet Fin is very tidal, Crimpanzie Fin has flaky rock and getting from the half-height ledge to the peg anchor (now backed up) is quite tedious.

Approach notes

Park and approach from Dowlaw farm


The SMC 1994 guide has a guideline April-July 1st bird ban. No more up to date info. The farmer at Dowlaw farm is aware of this.

Take care during nesting season not to disturb any wild birds. It's an offence to do so. For more info :


called. Ain't done it before. Very good, but hard for the grade.
DannyC - 07/Jul/14
Good man, thanks Stu. Climbed there yesterday and there were no birds nesting on routes that we did, although loads on the chossier unclimbed bits (Including on the walk-in. Be careful for plover nests). Did the E1 on the Stiff Bunnies I think it
DannyC - 07/Jul/14
Thanks Danny, I too can't find any reference, so I'm guessing it's historical. I've changed the advice and copied in a link to the MCofS's guidance on the subject which is worth a read. Cheers
stugreen75 - 05/Jul/14
Is the bird ban info here up to date? I can't see any mention of it currently on the MCofS page:
DannyC - 04/Jul/14
Seal of Approval is a great route and better than the ordinary route on the Souter.
submariner - 12/Jun/13
We didn't fancy the simul abseil(my mate likes his pies) so there's a wee bit of fresh tat up there again and a small wire donated too.
graeme gatherer - 24/Sep/10
the top has been cleaned of tat. you need to abseil off both sides.
KeithAlexander - 13/Sep/10
lol dam right, its been cleaned up now as has my helmet
Rob - 11/Apr/06
If climbing Squid Vicious on the Souter, some system to keep the belayer away from under the leader would be highly recommended as life threatening blocks are readily and unpredictably pulled off the first of the two overlaps at about half height.
henwardian - 20/Sep/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Doll Fin 
2Geronimo's Cadillac
E3 5c 2
3PlumeVD 2
VD 1
 Second Sight Fin 
HVS 5b *4
7Splice the Main brace
HVS 5a *2
D 3
9The Pig Thing
S 6
10Potbellied Sheep
VS 4b 1
VS 4b *4
E2 5b *2
13The Sentry Box
HVS 5a *4
14Gully Talk
VD 4
15A Drop in the OceanE2 5b *2
16Second SightHVS 5b **14
17Something Fishy
VS 5a *7
 Main Fin 
19Fluorescent Flack
E1 5b *2
E3 5c * 
21Fast BleederE3 6a **6
VS 5a 22
E3 6a *3
E2 6a **9
25Zig ZagE1 5b *50
26Zigzag Direct Start
E2 5c *5
27Zigzag Direct FinishE2 5c **2
28Chossy GrooveHVS 5a *1
29Mingy MetroE3 6a *2
30Fraud Escort
E3 5c *3
31Grinning GibbonHS 4b 5
32Return to SenderE3 5c **2
33J.P.S.HVS 5a *11
34BridlewayS *1
35Plain SailingE1 5b ***68
E3 5c ***10
37Coming up RosesHVS 4c 1
38Merlin and Wendy's Day Out
VS 5a 6
 Limpet Fin 
40OrgasmatronE2 5c *6
41ShortyS *36
VS 4c *26
VS 5a *13
44Take it to the LimpetsE3 5c **2
45The Great Gonzo
E2 5c * 
VS 4c 1
 The Souter 
48Squid Vicious
E5 6a ***2
49A Golden HourE3 5b **2
50Ordinary Route
HVS 5a **144
51Seal of approval
HVS 10
 Blockbuster Fin 
53Lightning Crack
HVS 5a *27
 Crimpanzie Fin 
E5 6b * 
56Not the HVS
E3 5c * 
57First of Four
E4 5c * 
58Tied up at Work
E3 6a * 
 The Wedge 
60Prawn SlippyE5 6a *3
61Skate BushE7 6b **2
62Puffer DaddyE3 6a *1
63Fuzzy StoneE3 5b  
64Edge of the WedgeE2 5a 1
 Dowlaw Dean North Fin 
66Praying for snow
HVS 5a  
67Don't Blink
VS 5b  
 Waterfall Wall 
69Waterfall WallE5 6a **2
70Witness the WhitenessE1 5b 4
 Dowlaw Dean South Stack area 
72Hale - Bopp
E3 6a *1
73Felo de Se
E3 6a *1
74Dried Peach Crack
VS 5a 1
75Captain Ahab
E1 5b 1
76Porn Ballsf5+ 2

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