The Souter (Fastcastle)

Climbs 64 – Rocktype Greywacke – Altitude 1m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
The area around the Souter sea-stack gives some excellent sea-cliff climbing. A great venue for the mid extreme leader!

Must Dos :

Skate Bush, E7, 6b, Squid Vicious E5 6a, Puffer Daddy, E3 6a, Fast Bleeder E3 6a, Take It To The Limpets E3 5c, Wallnut E3 5c, Plain sailing E1 5b, The Souter, Ordinary Route HVS 5a, Second Sight HVS 5a.

Contrary to the guide, The Wedge is non-tidal, Limpet Fin is very tidal, Crimpanzie Fin has flaky rock and getting from the half-height ledge to the peg anchor (now backed up) is quite tedious.

Access notes
Park and approach from Dowlaw farm

Tidal

The SMC 1994 guide has a guideline April-July 1st bird ban. No more up to date info. The farmer at Dowlaw farm is aware of this.

Take care during nesting season not to disturb any wild birds. It's an offence to do so. For more info : http://www.mcofs.org.uk/assets/nesting%20birds%20&%20climbers%20with%20photos%20embedded%200410.pdf

Guidebooks

Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 THE DOLL FIN 
2Geronimo's CadillacE3 5c
3PlumeVD
4SpumeVD
 SECOND SIGHT FIN 
6SeveranceHVS 5b *
7Splice the Main braceHVS 5a *
8IncisionD
9The Pig ThingS
10Potbellied SheepVS 4b
11DaytrippersVS 4b *
12TubigripperE2 5b *
13The Sentry BoxHVS 5a *
14Gully TalkVD
15A Drop in the OceanE2 5b *
16Second SightHVS 5b **
17Something FishyVS 5a *
 MAIN FIN 
19Fluorescent FlackE1 5b *
20SouterrainE3 5c *
21Fast BleederE3 6a **
22WalliVS 5a
23WallowE3 6a *
24WalletteE2 6a **
25Zig ZagE1 5b *
26Zigzag Direct StartE2 5c *
27Zigzag Direct FinishE2 5c **
28Chossy GrooveHVS 5a *
29Mingy MetroE3 6a *
30Fraud EscortE3 5c *
31Grinning GibbonHS 4b
32Return to SenderE3 5c **
33J.P.S.HVS 5a *
34Plain SailingE1 5b ***
35WallnutE3 5c ***
36Coming up RosesHVS 4c
37Merlin and Wendy's Day OutVS 5a
 LIMPET FIN 
39OrgasmatronE2 5c *
40ShortyS *
41SweepVS 4c *
42SootyVS 5a *
43Take it to the LimpetsE3 5c **
44The Great GonzoE2 5c *
45ChimpVS 4c
 THE SOUTER 
47Squid ViciousE5 6a ***
48A Golden HourE3 5b **
49Ordinary RouteHVS 5a **
50Seal of approvalHVS
 BLOCKBUSTER FIN 
52Lightning CrackHVS 5a *
 CRIMPANZIE FIN 
54CrimpanzieE5 6b *
55Not the HVSE3 5c *
56First of FourE4 5c *
57Tied up at WorkE3 6a *
 THE WEDGE 
59Prawn SlippyE5 6a **
60Skate BushE7 6b ***
61Puffer DaddyE3 6a **
62Fuzzy StoneE3 5b
63Edge of the WedgeE2 5a
 DOWLAW DEAN NORTH FIN 
65Praying for snowHVS 5a
66Don't BlinkVS 5b
 WATERFALL WALL 
68Waterfall WallE5 6a ***
69Witness the WhitenessE1 5b
 DOWLAW DEAN SOUTH STACK AREA 
71Hale - BoppE3 6a *
72Felo de SeE3 6a *
73Dried Peach CrackVS 5a
74Captain AhabE1 5b
75Porn BallsV2 5b
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer stugreen75

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
called. Ain't done it before. Very good, but hard for the grade.
DannyC - 07/Jul/14
Good man, thanks Stu. Climbed there yesterday and there were no birds nesting on routes that we did, although loads on the chossier unclimbed bits (Including on the walk-in. Be careful for plover nests). Did the E1 on the Stiff Bunnies I think it
DannyC - 07/Jul/14
Thanks Danny, I too can't find any reference, so I'm guessing it's historical. I've changed the advice and copied in a link to the MCofS's guidance on the subject which is worth a read. Cheers
stugreen75 - 05/Jul/14
Is the bird ban info here up to date? I can't see any mention of it currently on the MCofS page: http://www.mcofs.org.uk/nesting-bird-warning.asp
DannyC - 04/Jul/14
Seal of Approval is a great route and better than the ordinary route on the Souter.
submariner - 12/Jun/13
We didn't fancy the simul abseil(my mate likes his pies) so there's a wee bit of fresh tat up there again and a small wire donated too.
graeme gatherer - 24/Sep/10
the top has been cleaned of tat. you need to abseil off both sides.
KeithAlexander - 13/Sep/10
lol dam right, its been cleaned up now as has my helmet
Rob - 11/Apr/06
If climbing Squid Vicious on the Souter, some system to keep the belayer away from under the leader would be highly recommended as life threatening blocks are readily and unpredictably pulled off the first of the two overlaps at about half height.
henwardian - 20/Sep/05
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 13/Oct/2014
ads.ukclimbing.com

Photo Gallery

Directory

Find Listings near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)
Edinburgh, WEST LOTHIAN
Dedicated centre.
"The UK (and world's?) largest climbing wall. Set in a covered quarry, the walls are current state of the art, with five monster surfaces(up to 28 metres high)..."
eica-ratho.co.uk