The Souter (Fastcastle)

Climbs 65 – Rocktype Greywacke – Altitude 1m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
The area around the Souter sea-stack gives some excellent sea-cliff climbing. A great venue for the mid extreme leader!

Must Dos :

Skate Bush, E7, 6b, Squid Vicious E5 6a, Puffer Daddy, E3 6a, Fast Bleeder E3 6a, Take It To The Limpets E3 5c, Wallnut E3 5c, Plain sailing E1 5b, The Souter, Ordinary Route HVS 5a, Second Sight HVS 5a.

Contrary to the guide, The Wedge is non-tidal, Limpet Fin is very tidal, Crimpanzie Fin has flaky rock and getting from the half-height ledge to the peg anchor (now backed up) is quite tedious.

Access notes
Park and approach from Dowlaw farm

Tidal

The SMC 1994 guide has a guideline April-July 1st bird ban. No more up to date info. The farmer at Dowlaw farm is aware of this.

Take care during nesting season not to disturb any wild birds. It's an offence to do so. For more info : http://www.mcofs.org.uk/assets/nesting%20birds%20&%20climbers%20with%20photos%20embedded%200410.pdf

Guidebooks

Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE DOLL FIN  
2Geronimo's CadillacE3 5c 1
3PlumeVD 2
4SpumeVD 1
 SECOND SIGHT FIN  
6SeveranceHVS 5b *4
7Splice the Main braceHVS 5a *2
8IncisionD 3
9The Pig ThingS 6
10Potbellied SheepVS 4b 1
11DaytrippersVS 4b *4
12TubigripperE2 5b *2
13The Sentry BoxHVS 5a *4
14Gully TalkVD 4
15A Drop in the OceanE2 5b *2
16Second SightHVS 5b **14
17Something FishyVS 5a *7
 MAIN FIN  
19Fluorescent FlackE1 5b *2
20SouterrainE3 5c * 
21Fast BleederE3 6a **6
22WalliVS 5a 21
23WallowE3 6a *1
24WalletteE2 6a **7
25Zig ZagE1 5b *44
26Zigzag Direct StartE2 5c *5
27Zigzag Direct FinishE2 5c **2
28Chossy GrooveHVS 5a *1
29Mingy MetroE3 6a *2
30Fraud EscortE3 5c *3
31Grinning GibbonHS 4b 3
32Return to SenderE3 5c **2
33J.P.S.HVS 5a *11
34BridlewayS *1
35Plain SailingE1 5b ***63
36WallnutE3 5c ***10
37Coming up RosesHVS 4c 1
38Merlin and Wendy's Day OutVS 5a 6
 LIMPET FIN  
40OrgasmatronE2 5c *6
41ShortyS *30
42SweepVS 4c *22
43SootyVS 5a *13
44Take it to the LimpetsE3 5c **2
45The Great GonzoE2 5c * 
46ChimpVS 4c 1
 THE SOUTER  
48Squid ViciousE5 6a ***2
49A Golden HourE3 5b **2
50Ordinary RouteHVS 5a **137
51Seal of approvalHVS 10
 BLOCKBUSTER FIN  
53Lightning CrackHVS 5a *26
 CRIMPANZIE FIN  
55CrimpanzieE5 6b * 
56Not the HVSE3 5c * 
57First of FourE4 5c * 
58Tied up at WorkE3 6a * 
 THE WEDGE  
60Prawn SlippyE5 6a *3
61Skate BushE7 6b **2
62Puffer DaddyE3 6a *1
63Fuzzy StoneE3 5b  
64Edge of the WedgeE2 5a 1
 DOWLAW DEAN NORTH FIN  
66Praying for snowHVS 5a  
67Don't BlinkVS 5b  
 WATERFALL WALL  
69Waterfall WallE5 6a **2
70Witness the WhitenessE1 5b 4
 DOWLAW DEAN SOUTH STACK AREA  
72Hale - BoppE3 6a *1
73Felo de SeE3 6a *1
74Dried Peach CrackVS 5a 1
75Captain AhabE1 5b 1
76Porn BallsV2 5b 2
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer stugreen75

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
called. Ain't done it before. Very good, but hard for the grade.
DannyC - 07/Jul/14
Good man, thanks Stu. Climbed there yesterday and there were no birds nesting on routes that we did, although loads on the chossier unclimbed bits (Including on the walk-in. Be careful for plover nests). Did the E1 on the Stiff Bunnies I think it
DannyC - 07/Jul/14
Thanks Danny, I too can't find any reference, so I'm guessing it's historical. I've changed the advice and copied in a link to the MCofS's guidance on the subject which is worth a read. Cheers
stugreen75 - 05/Jul/14
Is the bird ban info here up to date? I can't see any mention of it currently on the MCofS page: http://www.mcofs.org.uk/nesting-bird-warning.asp
DannyC - 04/Jul/14
Seal of Approval is a great route and better than the ordinary route on the Souter.
submariner - 12/Jun/13
We didn't fancy the simul abseil(my mate likes his pies) so there's a wee bit of fresh tat up there again and a small wire donated too.
graeme gatherer - 24/Sep/10
the top has been cleaned of tat. you need to abseil off both sides.
KeithAlexander - 13/Sep/10
lol dam right, its been cleaned up now as has my helmet
Rob - 11/Apr/06
If climbing Squid Vicious on the Souter, some system to keep the belayer away from under the leader would be highly recommended as life threatening blocks are readily and unpredictably pulled off the first of the two overlaps at about half height.
henwardian - 20/Sep/05