Climbs 447
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 75m a.s.l
Faces SW

john gaskins on hugh 9a © DEvans

Crag features

A stunningly beutiful crag set in the Charente just south of Angouleme boasting some magnificent routes of varying degrees of difficulty. Routes range from 3 to "Hugh" at 9a! Most of which are 5 and above but there is plenty lower in the grade if you do a tour of the valley.

All routes are bolted with one or two exceptions that are A0/A1. The bolts are generally good, spaced nicely and there are chains or double bolts in situ for a lower off / abseil. Alternatively access to the top of the crag is good although take a machette in the summer months.

* The valley boasts 28 seperate blocs / Buttresses each described in the climb list with their climbs below. The blocs are numbered from right to left but for each bloc the climbs are described from Left to Right parking is at bloc 10.

The updated guide book (2012)lists 42 separate blocs, the total number of climbs is still around the 450 mark. The 2012 guide also numbers the blocs from left to right along with the climbs on the bloc, parking is located at the base of bloc 21.

Approach notes

Popular with runners and cyclists alike, parking is good but it can get quite busy at weekends. The new guide mentions where access should be 'respected'

The blocs are now numbered from left to right with the climbs continuing to be described from Left to Right. Parking is at bloc 21 adjacent to the noticeboard. Beyond the parking area is the access road to the paper mill - no further parking is available and there is no turning space.

Access to bloc 19 is up the marked track to the west of bloc 18 and not the newly trodden direct path from the road. The beret-wearing gentleman from the paper mill with the flailing arms did suggest that we used another path...

Guidebook available from the tourist office in Angouleme and the local Decathlon store.

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

I visited this place in August 2013 and really liked it. The rocks are beautiful and most bolts are in excellent condition. Many of the climbs on the largest rock (at the large parking) are quite hard due to the tough overhang at the foot at the rock. Be sure to check the smaller blocs hidden behind the trees along the road out as well, especially if you want to avoid the direct sun in summer. To get there, ask for the 'Moulin de Verger' in Puymoyen or set your navigation device to 'Rue du Moulin du Verger 1'. The signs claim the road in a rather wealthy neighborhood was a dead end, but it turns into a country trail and brings you to the rocks, about 400 meters after the last house.
dfsp_spirit - 31/Aug/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Bloc de la cheminee (1) 
2La Rosee
-
5c *3
3Bidoigts pour monocephales
-
7a  
4La PJ
-
6a 1
5La Pejibus
-
6a+  
6Pied nickele contre doigts d'acier
-
7a+  
7Cocoricodoigts
-
7b  
8Le con de Florence
-
7a * 
9La grande forn
-
7b  
10La traversee imperiale
-
6a *1
11La grande ravier
-
7a+ 1
12La 9e symphonie
-
6a  
13Le Zebulon
-
6a+  
14La chiminee
-
4c 2
15Think punk
-
6c  
16Si signore
-
7a  
17La proue
-
6a 1
18La 7e hard
-
7a  
19La Ouistiti
-
6a 1
20La traversier (a 2 m du sol)
-
7a 1
 Les Terrasses et Le balcon (2) 
22Re
-
3  
23Cu
-
3+  
24R e
-
4c 2
25Ra
-
4a  
26Gremlins
-
5a 1
27Black trombone
-
5a 2
28Salle temp pour les louches
-
7a+  
29Le Balcon
-
3+  
30Demoniaque Mr Newton
-
7b  
31Le Croissant Rouge
-
6a 1
32Le Voie de doite
-
4c  
 Le Miroir (3) 
34Calin Paillard
-
5c 1
35La Voie de Gauche
-
5a 1
36Le fete de nerfs
-
6a 1
37Mortelle randonee
-
6b  
38In Extremis
-
6c  
39La Snoopy
-
6b  
40La Direct Geurin
-
6b  
41La Spartiate (varient du depart)
-
6a  
42La Gratonnique velue
-
6c  
43La coeur de lion
-
6b+ 1
44Le moyenne ravier
-
6c 1
45La Traversee du miroir
-
5a *1
46La doigts dans la nez
-
7a  
47Dragees sans bapteme
-
7a 1
48Les Abeilles
-
5c 2
49L'ascent'heurt
-
4a 2
 La gousseault (4) 
51Big Foot
-
7a  
52La Voici
-
7a+ 1
53La Gousseault
-
7b+  
54Andantino
-
7c+  
55Take your fingers out of it!
-
8a  
56Tonight
-
7b+  
57La Reviola
-
7a 1
58La peur aux doigts
-
7a  
59La mere michue
-
4a 1
60Arete michue
-
3+  
 Le Dalles Lassie et L'indien (5) 
62Les dalles lassie
-
4c 1
63La Dulfer
-
5a  
64La Jump
-
6b  
65La venitienne
-
7a  
66Show lapin 7
-
7a  
67La panama
-
7b  
68Traversee der soupirs
-
5c 1
69Traversee de Venise
-
6a  
70Show Devant
-
6b  
71Le petit dalle
-
3+  
72Squaw vadis
-
6c  
73L'indien
-
7a  
74L'indien directe
-
7b  
75Oeil de boullion gras
-
6b  
76L'arete de poisson
-
3+ 2
77Boss Frog
-
F8a+  
 La Ravier / La Sans Nom / Le Renard (6) 
79Cendres de Lune
-
F8a  
 Le Mur Guerin / Bloc Z (7) 
81Suspiria *
-
F7c  
 La Brioche (8) 
83L'oeil du cyclone *
-
F7a  
 Le Grand Toit (9) 
85Do *
-
F6c  
 Falaise Principale (10) 
87Re *
-
F5+ 1
 Bloc De La Vielle Grand-mere (11) 
89Mi *
-
F4 1
 Bloc /du /moulin (12) 
91Fa *
-
F3+ 1
92(cle) *
-
F4 1
93Sol *
-
F4+ 1
94La *
-
F3+ 1
95Si *
-
F3  
 Moved climbs 
97La Saintongeaise
-
5c 2
98Enfin Libre
-
6b 1
99La Voie Des Nids
-
6b 2
100Rock To The Rescue
-
6b 1
101Le Fil A Plomb
-
6b 1
102Prises Rapides
-
5c 1
103La Mortier
-
5c 1
104La 26
-
5c 1
105Bock Challengef6B+ 1
106Bak a Sablef6A 1
107Tria De (sit-start)
-
f6C 1
108Mea Culpaf7B+ *1
109Contactf7B+ **1
110La Deirdre du Moulin
-
5a 1
111Le Pilier d'angle
-
6a 1
112La Terray
-
5c 1
113La 69
-
5c 3
114La Tellier
-
6a+ 1
115Histories follies
-
6b 1
116La Paulette
-
6b  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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