Vallee des Eaux Claires

Climbs 447 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 75m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A stunningly beutiful crag set in the Charente just south of Angouleme boasting some magnificent routes of varying degrees of difficulty. Routes range from 3 to "Hugh" at 9a! Most of which are 5 and above but there is plenty lower in the grade if you do a tour of the valley.

All routes are bolted with one or two exceptions that are A0/A1. The bolts are generally good, spaced nicely and there are chains or double bolts in situ for a lower off / abseil. Alternatively access to the top of the crag is good although take a machette in the summer months.

* The valley boasts 28 seperate blocs / Buttresses each described in the climb list with their climbs below. The blocs are numbered from right to left but for each bloc the climbs are described from Left to Right parking is at bloc 10.

The updated guide book (2012)lists 42 separate blocs, the total number of climbs is still around the 450 mark. The 2012 guide also numbers the blocs from left to right along with the climbs on the bloc, parking is located at the base of bloc 21.

Access notes
Popular with runners and cyclists alike, parking is good but it can get quite busy at weekends. The new guide mentions where access should be 'respected'

The blocs are now numbered from left to right with the climbs continuing to be described from Left to Right. Parking is at bloc 21 adjacent to the noticeboard. Beyond the parking area is the access road to the paper mill - no further parking is available and there is no turning space.

Access to bloc 19 is up the marked track to the west of bloc 18 and not the newly trodden direct path from the road. The beret-wearing gentleman from the paper mill with the flailing arms did suggest that we used another path...

Guidebook available from the tourist office in Angouleme and the local Decathlon store.

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
59La mere michue4a 1
60Arete michue3+  
 LE DALLES LASSIE ET L'INDIEN (5)  
62Les dalles lassie4c 1
63La Dulfer5a  
64La Jump6b  
65La venitienne7a  
66Show lapin 77a  
67La panama7b  
68Traversee der soupirs5c 1
69Traversee de Venise6a  
70Show Devant6b  
71Le petit dalle3+  
72Squaw vadis6c  
73L'indien7a  
74L'indien directe7b  
75Oeil de boullion gras6b  
76L'arete de poisson3+ 2
 LA RAVIER / LA SANS NOM / LE RENARD (6)  
78Boss FrogF8a+  
79Cendres de LuneF8a  
 LE MUR GUERIN / BLOC Z (7)  
 LA BRIOCHE (8)  
82Suspiria *F7c  
83L'oeil du cyclone *F7a  
 LE GRAND TOIT (9)  
 FALAISE PRINCIPALE (10)  
86Do *F6c  
87Re *F5+ 1
 BLOC DE LA VIELLE GRAND-MERE (11)  
89Mi *F4 1
 BLOC /DU /MOULIN (12)  
91Fa *F3+ 1
92(cle) *F4 1
93Sol *F4+ 1
94La *F3+ 1
95Si *F3  
 MOVED CLIMBS  
97La Saintongeaise5c 2
98Enfin Libre6b 1
99La Voie Des Nids6b 2
100Rock To The Rescue6b 1
101Le Fil A Plomb6b 1
102Prises Rapides5c 1
103La Mortier5c 1
104La 265c 1
105Bock Challengef6B+ 1
106Bak a Sablef6A 1
107Tria De (sit-start)f6C 1
108Mea Culpaf7B+ *1
109Contactf7B+ **1
110La Deirdre du Moulin5a 1
111Le Pilier d'angle6a 1
112La Terray5c 1
113La 695c 1
114La Tellier6a+ 1
115Histories follies6b 1
116La Paulette6b  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Pcox81

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
I visited this place in August 2013 and really liked it. The rocks are beautiful and most bolts are in excellent condition. Many of the climbs on the largest rock (at the large parking) are quite hard due to the tough overhang at the foot at the rock. Be sure to check the smaller blocs hidden behind the trees along the road out as well, especially if you want to avoid the direct sun in summer. To get there, ask for the 'Moulin de Verger' in Puymoyen or set your navigation device to 'Rue du Moulin du Verger 1'. The signs claim the road in a rather wealthy neighborhood was a dead end, but it turns into a country trail and brings you to the rocks, about 400 meters after the last house.
dfsp_spirit - 31/Aug/13