Climbs 98
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 500m a.s.l
Faces all

Pili © vollaard

Crag features

Behind the typical bustling city of Murcia is a long range of hills. The high point is the rocky ridge of the Cresta del Gallo and at one end of this is the impressive tower of La Panocha, which translates appropriately as the Corncob. This is the best climbing venue in the immediate area, and a popular place at weekends with people escaping the city for a bit of cragging, hence it can get busy but during the week you are likely to have the place to yourself. The area has a full spread of grades, with many fine face-routes and a number of mini-summits to bag. Most of the routes are single pitch, though the biggest of these are almost 30m long. The routes have been popular for generations and many are very polished nowadays.

The Cresta del Gallo is at an altitude of almost 500m, so can be a little cooler than the valleys surrounding it. Being a ridge, there is often a breeze blowing and La Panocha has walls facing in all directions making it a viable venue at almost any time of the year.

Approach notes

The crag is situated southeast of the city of Murcia. From the north, follow the A7 motorway southeast then the A30 that runs round Murcia, towards Cartagena. Once past the city centre, take junction 148 signed 'La Alberca' (and 'Algezares'). Head into La Alberca and join the Mu302. Drive about 3km east on this then, about 200m past a petrol station on the left, make a sharp right turn signed to 'Santuari de la Fuensanta' - old sign, just past a small park area. Drive up the hill past the impressive religious buildings to a T-junction. Turn left and follow the road past a section of one-way road to the extensive parking in front of the cliff.

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
Quite loose in a lot of places and one side of the Panocha looks ready to head down the hillside!!!
valentinesbabe - 18/Feb/13
Sector Lennon is the crag to the right of La Panocha facing the car park. Two minutes approach
Pencarth - 04/Apr/11
Probably worth mentioning that around Xmas time, the sun doesn't get high enough in the sky to shine on the lower part of the South face and lower right of the west face of the main crag. Therefore not really a good destination at that time of year (although sector Paisaje Lunar gets the sun until around 4.30 and is sheltered)
Neil Binns - 04/Jan/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Northwest Face 
2Antonio Mairal4c **2
3Freynet7a **1
4Maria Angeles5c ***5
5Epi7b  
6Buriles7a+  
7Directa Norte6b+ **4
8Directissima7c ** 
9Norte Baldomera6c+ ***6
10Fisura Gallego6b **7
11Gallego - Cãnovas7a+ ***1
12Gallego - Tirolinas6c+ **2
13Maneras de Sobre6b+ ** 
14Fuensanta Maruja7a *** 
 Sector Lennon 
16Mare Nostrum4a 2
17AC/DC5a 3
18Carmen4c 2
19Chapa'ande quieras5c 3
20COE5c 7
21Rodrigo6a 7
22Sueños Infinitos5a 3
23Feni4a 1
24John Lennon6a+ 1
25Piano5c 2
26Carlos5a  
27Ana5a  
 South Face 
29Victoria Elvira7b * 
30Majura Directisima6c ** 
31Variante Majura6c+ *** 
32Gallego - Carlos6a+ ***18
33Pili Directa6c *4
34Esther6b **14
35Pili5a **49
36Niña Bonita6b **14
37Porki6a+ **13
38Pipi6a **25
39Sur5a *27
40'M'6a+ *4
41Sur Directa5c 4
42Murciano - Catalana5c **8
43Sevi - Spiri5c **16
44Almirante5a **30
45Mar6c *4
46Espolón Sureste5a 1
47San Bernardo5a **8
48Pep Camarena6a+ *9
49Arista Sureste4c *11
 Sector Blanco 
51Zipe y Zape6a+ 1
52Dougal Haston6c **1
53Gato u Ocho Buriles6c+ **5
54Cirrosis6b+ **9
55Flauta Mágica6c+ *3
56Cachondeos6c+ **5
57Directa Margarita7b+ * 
58Matas - Ginés7b+ * 
59Jaisa Tropel, no subas6a+ 1
 Sector Caseta - Lower 
61Voy Compadre6b+ *1
62Tijuana Brass6a+ * 
63Lagarto Juancho6a * 
64Raquel6b *1
65O.J.E.6a * 
66Anfeta Local6a+ **1
67Direct Anfeta Local6a * 
68Bruce Lee
-
6a *1
 Sector Quijar 
70Diedraco5c  

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