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These details were last updated on 31/Dec/2013

Orihuela

Murcia Area, SPAIN

Climbs 134 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 199m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
To the north of the old town of Orihuela and its smaller satellite of Callosa de Segura is a series of rugged red hills that, despite initial appearances to the contrary, contain much good climbing. From the classic multi-pitch offerings on the Pared Negra and La Pancha, to the short steep sport routes near the Cueva Ahumada, there is much here to interest the passing climber. The area is close enough to the Alicante/Benidorm area to be a reasonable objective for a day's visit, and although the cliffs have been climbed on here by the locals for over 40 years, visitors have always been few and far between.

Access notes
The cliffs are aligned to the north of the N340 and the CV900 which are easily reached from the A7 motorway. The Orihuela junction is just over 40km south of Alicante airport. Approaches for each cliff are covered in the relevant sections of the guide; check the maps on the appropriate pages. Approach walks vary between 5 and 20 minutes.

Guidebooks
Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014), Spain : Costa Blanca (2013),
Out of print: Costa Blanca (2005)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
 EL MOMIOT  
2Momiot llevanti5a ** 
 EL DIEDRO  
4El Diedro5c **2
5Espero Manolo Jaen6a+ * 
6Maraton5c ** 
 EL POLíGONO  
8Directa7a  
9José Gracia6a  
10Montesinos6a 1
 SECTOR HOYO  
12El Negro6b+ *5
13Hoyo6b+ **7
14Heaven and Hell6a *5
15Juan Iborra5c 2
 PARED NEGRA  
17Vía Nuria6a+ *2
18Espolón de la Pared Negra5a **14
19Santa Faz6b+ *4
20Padre Bueno6a+ *3
21Misa Tridente6a *3
22Ejercito Azul5c *5
23Padre Santo5c **2
24Derecha del Espolón5a ***34
25Variante Pomares-Quiles6a+ **2
26Sombra Lunar6a **3
27Gallego-Carlos5c * 
28Somnis7a **1
29Directisima6a **3
30Teo6a **5
31Efecto 20005c * 
 RÉDOVAN - LA PANCHA  
33Silvia6c **1
34X Capitulos6b *1
35Perica5c *3
36Tribo6a+ ***2
37Compare5a *4
38Lucas/El pirulo6b **2
39Ibiza6a *1
40Ardilla6a *2
4176a+ **1
42Pepe el rojo7a+ **1
43César7a+ ** 
44Todos los Santos6a+ ***5
45Recolecta6b+ **3
46Burilazo6a+ * 
47Lavazo6a * 
48José Hernández6b * 
49Chatal6c+ * 
50Espolón necesidad6b *1
51Espolón P.D.P.5c ** 
 REDOVAN - SECTOR RUTH  
53La Pulper7a  
54La Tarisma6b+ 1
55Sin na6c+  
56Sartenes6c  
57Rescate6b  
58Humo al Zorro5c 1
59Cerdos y Diamantes7b+  
60Bosnia7a  
61Elektroestatika8a+  
62Elektromagnetika7c+  
63Reina Madre7c **1
64La 2047b+ **1
65Eclipse7b+  
66Ambiente Cadaber7c+  
67La Wapa6c **2
68Impuesto Revolutionario6c ***4
69El 7 Degrees de Michigan7a 1
70La Intifada6b+ **1
71Sin Mechero6a+ **1
72Si no te le gusta, ve te a la Pancha6a ***1
73Zig Zag6b **2
 Climb nameGradex
74Lagarto6a *3
75Toma Conejo Rio6a ***1
76Monin5c  
77Ostia Puta5c  
78Suicidio Colectivo6b+ 3
79Cañonazo6a  
80Kayus Bonus5c  
81Virlesioko5c  
82Delincuencia5a  
83Delincuetes5a  
84La Primera vez6a+  
85Azken Guda Dantza6a+  
86Azul6a+  
87Gurriman6c+  
88Osita Pegui6b+  
 CALLOSA - SECTORS 2 AND 3  
90Andrajosa6c * 
91Jarra pellejos6b *3
92Zape, Zape, Zape6a *12
93En la barra, los falsos6b+ *2
94Tomellosa6c *1
95Eugenio venta pa España7c  
96No metas la polla6c *1
97La pancha de blas8b **1
98Al que eyacula dios7c ** 
99Ni me mires7b **4
100Menos curas más posturas6c **11
101La de Miguel Perez7a+ **3
102Con tu novia me hinchaba6b+ **7
103Araña6b+ **9
104Gusano6a+ ***34
105Lirón Arboreo6c ***13
106La Cueva6c **8
 CALLOSA - SECTOR 1  
108La Larga4c 49
109Dias de Lluvia5a 64
110La libélula5c *69
111Ahora y en la hora6a *46
112Maldita sea6a+ 6
113Esto no es pan comido6a 10
114Come bizcocho5c 13
115Cuchipin suda fuerte6a 12
116Nuria no Llores5c *32
117Honda 10006a *22
118Cojo remojo5c 22
119Corren los flechines6a 19
120Se aleja la almeja6a *24
121Me traicionó la piedra5a 38
 CALLOSA - ESCUELA VIEJE  
123Vía vieja 54a 39
124Vía vieja 44a *46
125Vía vieja 34a 41
126Vía nueva5a *70
127Vía vieja 25a 64
 CALLOSA - SOLANA AND RÁPEL  
129Albertos 15a 27
130Albertos 24a *36
131Carmen5a **78
132Pesahombre4c **75
133Tres Chapas Izquierda6b *21
134Tres Chapas Derecha6b+ **10
135Provata4a 16
136Cursillo4a 17
137Ingenieros4a 14
138Doctor Flemig5a *15
139Neuvo5a *** 
140La baldomera del quinto4c *16
141Pedro el molisero5c **19
 CALLOSA - LA CANTERA  
143La Cantera5c ***13
144Sali6a ** 
145IX Capítulos6a ** 
146Trompases5c *1
Classifieds
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Redovan- La Pancha has lots more routes than in the new 2013 rockfax. Both single pitch and multi-pitch. There was new more new routing going on the day we were there 01-03-13. The routes almost all have plates at the bottom with pitch names and grades.
brianrunner - 03/Mar/13

A local climber told us that Pared Negro is now open (its down as closed til the end of 2013 in the new rockfax). The closed sign on page 75 of rockfax isn't there now so we climbed on the crag.
brianrunner - 03/Mar/13

Orihuela is in Alicante province not Murcia. The Redovan and Orihuela crags are quite separate climbing areas and lumping them together is confusing and not very helpful.
Pencarth - 04/Jan/12

The National Park where the crags are located is closed 24/25th Dec and 1/2nd Jan. Although the gates are locked and there are closed signs up it's easy enough to get through, the local gentleman we spoke to didn't seem to think there was a problem with entering on foot even though the park was technically closed.
magpie - 03/Jan/09