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Orihuela

Murcia Area, SPAIN

Climbs 120 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 199m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
To the north of the old town of Orihuela and its smaller satellite of Callosa de Segura is a series of rugged red hills that, despite initial appearances to the contrary, contain much good climbing. From the classic multi-pitch offerings on the Pared Negra and La Pancha, to the short steep sport routes near the Cueva Ahumada, there is much here to interest the passing climber. The area is close enough to the Alicante/Benidorm area to be a reasonable objective for a dayâs visit, and although the cliffs have been climbed on here by the locals for over 40 years, visitors have always been few and far between.

Guidebooks
Spain : Costa Blanca (2013),
Out of print: Costa Blanca (2005)

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name	Grade	x

	EL MOMIOT
2	Momiot llevanti	5 **
	EL DIEDRO
4	El Diedro	5+ **	1
5	Espero Manolo Jaen	6a+ *
6	Maraton	5+ (E1) **
	SECTOR HOYA
8	El Negro	6b+ *	5
9	Hoyo	6b+ **	7
10	Heaven and Hell	6a *	5
11	Juan Iborra	5+	2
	PARED NEGRA
13	Vía Nuria	6a+ *	2
14	Espolón de la Pared Negra	5 **	11
15	Santa Faz	6b+ *	4
16	Padre Bueno	6a+ *	3
17	Misa Tridente	6a *	2
18	Ejercito Azul	5+ **	4
19	Padre Santo	5+ **	2
20	Derecha del Espolón	5 ***	24
21	Variante Pomares-Quiles	6a+ **	2
22	Sombra Lunar	6a **	2
23	Gallego-Carlos	5+ *
24	Somnis	6a+ **	1
25	Directisima	6a **	2
26	Teo	6a **	5
27	Efecto 2000	5+ *
	RéDOVAN - LA PANCHA
29	Silvia	6c **	1
30	X Capitulos	6b *	1
31	Perica	5+ *	2
32	Tribo	6a+ **	2
33	Compare	5 *	4
34	Lucas	6b **	2
35	Ibiza	6a *	1
36	Ardilla	6a *	2
37	7	6a+ **	1
38	Pepe el rojo	7a+ **	1
39	César	7a+ **
40	Todos los Santos	6a+ **	4
41	Recolecta	6c **	3
42	Burilazo	6a+ *
43	Lavazo	6a *
44	José Hernández	6b *
45	Chatal	6c+ *
46	Espolón necesidad	6b *	1
47	Espolón P.D.P.	5+ **
	REDOVAN - SECTOR RUTH
49	Si no te le gusta, ve te a la Pancha *	6a ***	1
50	La Wapa *	6c **	2
51	Reine Madre *	7c **	1
52	Impuesto Revolutionario *	6c **	2
53	La Intifada *	6b **	1
54	La 204 *	7b+ **	1
55	Toma Conejo Rio *	6a ***	1
56	Sin Mechero *	6a+ **	1
57	El 7 Degrees De Michigan (Sector Ruth) *	7a	1
58	Righthand Finish to Leftmost Line - Sector Ruth *	6c	1
	EL POLíGONO
60	Directa	7a
61	José Gracia	6a (E1)
62	Montesinos	6a (E1)	1
	CALLOSA - SECTORS 2 AND 3
64	Andrajosa	6c *
65	Jarra pellejos	6a+ *	3
66	Zape, Zape, Zape	6a *	11
67	En la barra, los falsos	6b *	2

	Climb name	Grade	x

68	Tomellosa	6c *	1
69	Eugenio venta pa España	7c
70	No metas la polla	6c *	1
71	La pancha de blas	8b **	1
72	Al que eyacula dios	7c **
73	Ni me mires	7a **	4
74	Menos curas más posturas	6c **	11
75	La de Miguel Perez	7a+ **	3
76	Con tu novia me hinchaba	6b+ *	7
77	Araña	6b+ **	9
78	Gusano	6a+ ***	29
79	Lirón Arboreo	6c ***	13
80	La Cueva	6b+ **	8
	CALLOSA - SECTOR 1
82	La Larga	4+	46
83	Dias de Lluvia	5	61
84	La libelula	5+ *	65
85	Ahora y en la hora	6a *	41
86	Maldita sea	6a+	6
87	Esto no es pan comido	6a	9
88	Come bizcocho	5+	13
89	Cuchipin suda fuerte	6a	12
90	Nuria no Llores	5+ *	29
91	Honda 1000	6a	19
92	Cojo remojo	5+	22
93	Corren los cheflines	6a	16
94	Se aleja la almeja	6a *	23
95	Me traiciono la piedra	5	38
	CALLOSA - ESCUELA VIEJE
97	Vía vieja 5	4	38
98	Vía vieja 4	4 *	45
99	Vía vieja 3	4	39
100	Vía nueva	5 *	64
101	Vía vieja 2	5 *	59
	CALLOSA - SOLANA AND RáPEL
103	Albertos 1	5	25
104	Albertos 2	4 *	34
105	Carmen	5 **	70
106	Pesahombre	4+ **	68
107	Tres Chapas Izquierda	6b **	19
108	Tres Chapas Derecha	6b+ **	7
109	Provata	4	13
110	Cursillo	4	14
111	Ingenieros	4	11
112	Doctor Flemig	5 *	12
113	La baldomera del quinto	4+ *	15
114	Pedro el molisero	5+ **	14
	CALLOSA - LA CANTERA
116	La Cantera	5 **	11
117	Sali	6a (E1) **
118	IX Capítulos	6a+ **
119	Trompases	5+ (E1) *	1
	OTHER ROUTES (LOCATION UNCERTAIN)
121	La Nonanza †	6a ***
122	Lagarto †	6a *	2
123	Suldo Colectivo †	6b+ *	3
124	Zig Zag †	6b **	2
125	Impjesto Revolucionario †	6b+ ***	2
126	Pillar Route 1	6c ***	1
127	Cycle Crack	7a+ *	2
128	Cycle Crack Direct	7b **	2
129	Creando Ambiente	7a+ **	2
130	Combi †	7c+ **	2
131	El Grinch	7c+ **	1
132	Via Ainara *	6a+ **	1
133	Dayana *	6a *	1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Access notes
The cliffs are aligned to the north of the N340 and the CV900 which are easily reached from the A7 motorway. The Orihuela junction is just over 40km south of Alicante airport. Approaches for each cliff are covered in the relevant sections of the guide; check the maps on the appropriate pages. Approach walks vary between 5 and 20 minutes.

Classifieds
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Nik Jennings

USER FEEDBACK

Redovan- La Pancha has lots more routes than in the new 2013 rockfax. Both single pitch and multi-pitch. There was new more new routing going on the day we were there 01-03-13. The routes almost all have plates at the bottom with pitch names and grades.
brianrunner

- 03/Mar/13

A local climber told us that Pared Negro is now open (its down as closed til the end of 2013 in the new rockfax). The closed sign on page 75 of rockfax isn't there now so we climbed on the crag.
brianrunner - 03/Mar/13

Orihuela is in Alicante province not Murcia. The Redovan and Orihuela crags are quite separate climbing areas and lumping them together is confusing and not very helpful.
Pencarth - 04/Jan/12

The National Park where the crags are located is closed 24/25th Dec and 1/2nd Jan. Although the gates are locked and there are closed signs up it's easy enough to get through, the local gentleman we spoke to didn't seem to think there was a problem with entering on foot even though the park was technically closed.
magpie - 03/Jan/09

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