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These details were last updated on 31/Dec/2013

Orihuela

Murcia Area, SPAIN

Climbs 134 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 199m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
To the north of the old town of Orihuela and its smaller satellite of Callosa de Segura is a series of rugged red hills that, despite initial appearances to the contrary, contain much good climbing. From the classic multi-pitch offerings on the Pared Negra and La Pancha, to the short steep sport routes near the Cueva Ahumada, there is much here to interest the passing climber. The area is close enough to the Alicante/Benidorm area to be a reasonable objective for a day's visit, and although the cliffs have been climbed on here by the locals for over 40 years, visitors have always been few and far between.

Guidebooks
Spain : Costa Blanca (2013),
Out of print: Costa Blanca (2005)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 EL MOMIOT  
2Momiot llevanti5 ** 
 EL DIEDRO  
4El Diedro5+ **2
5Espero Manolo Jaen6a+ * 
6Maraton5+ ** 
 EL POLíGONO  
8Directa7a  
9José Gracia6a  
10Montesinos6a 1
 SECTOR HOYA  
12El Negro6b+ *5
13Hoyo6b+ **7
14Heaven and Hell6a *5
15Juan Iborra5+ 2
 PARED NEGRA  
17Vía Nuria6a+ *2
18Espolón de la Pared Negra5 **14
19Santa Faz6b+ *4
20Padre Bueno6a+ *3
21Misa Tridente6a *3
22Ejercito Azul5+ *5
23Padre Santo5+ **2
24Derecha del Espolón5 ***32
25Variante Pomares-Quiles6a+ **2
26Sombra Lunar6a **3
27Gallego-Carlos5+ * 
28Somnis7a **1
29Directisima6a **2
30Teo6a **5
31Efecto 20005+ * 
 RÉDOVAN - LA PANCHA  
33Silvia6c **1
34X Capitulos6b *1
35Perica5+ *3
36Tribo6a+ ***2
37Compare5 *4
38Lucas/El pirulo6b **2
39Ibiza6a *1
40Ardilla6a *2
4176a+ **1
42Pepe el rojo7a+ **1
43César7a+ ** 
44Todos los Santos6a+ ***4
45Recolecta6b+ **3
46Burilazo6a+ * 
47Lavazo6a * 
48José Hernández6b * 
49Chatal6c+ * 
50Espolón necesidad6b *1
51Espolón P.D.P.5+ ** 
 REDOVAN - SECTOR RUTH  
53La Pulper7a  
54La Tarisma6b+ 1
55Sin na6c+  
56Sartenes6c  
57Rescate6b  
58Humo al Zorro5+ 1
59Cerdos y Diamantes7b+  
60Bosnia7a  
61Elektroestatika8a+  
62Elektromagnetika7c+  
63Reina Madre7c **1
64La 2047b+ **1
65Eclipse7b+  
66Ambiente Cadaber7c+  
67La Wapa6c **2
68Impuesto Revolutionario6c ***4
69El 7 Degrees de Michigan7a 1
70La Intifada6b+ **1
71Sin Mechero6a+ **1
72Si no te le gusta, ve te a la Pancha6a ***1
73Zig Zag6b **2
 Climb nameGradex
74Lagarto6a *3
75Toma Conejo Rio6a ***1
76Monin5+  
77Ostia Puta5+  
78Suicidio Colectivo6b+ 3
79Cañonazo6a  
80Kayus Bonus5+  
81Virlesioko5+  
82Delincuencia5  
83Delincuetes5  
84La Primera vez6a+  
85Azken Guda Dantza6a+  
86Azul6a+  
87Gurriman6c+  
88Osita Pegui6b+  
 CALLOSA - SECTORS 2 AND 3  
90Andrajosa6c * 
91Jarra pellejos6b *3
92Zape, Zape, Zape6a *12
93En la barra, los falsos6b+ *2
94Tomellosa6c *1
95Eugenio venta pa España7c  
96No metas la polla6c *1
97La pancha de blas8b **1
98Al que eyacula dios7c ** 
99Ni me mires7b **4
100Menos curas más posturas6c **11
101La de Miguel Perez7a+ **3
102Con tu novia me hinchaba6b+ **7
103Araña6b+ **9
104Gusano6a+ ***34
105Lirón Arboreo6c ***13
106La Cueva6c **8
 CALLOSA - SECTOR 1  
108La Larga4+ 49
109Dias de Lluvia5 64
110La libélula5+ *69
111Ahora y en la hora6a *46
112Maldita sea6a+ 6
113Esto no es pan comido6a 10
114Come bizcocho5+ 13
115Cuchipin suda fuerte6a 12
116Nuria no Llores5+ *32
117Honda 10006a *22
118Cojo remojo5+ 22
119Corren los flechines6a 19
120Se aleja la almeja6a *24
121Me traicionó la piedra5 38
 CALLOSA - ESCUELA VIEJE  
123Vía vieja 54 39
124Vía vieja 44 *46
125Vía vieja 34 41
126Vía nueva5 *70
127Vía vieja 25 64
 CALLOSA - SOLANA AND RÁPEL  
129Albertos 15 27
130Albertos 24 *36
131Carmen5 **78
132Pesahombre4+ **75
133Tres Chapas Izquierda6b *21
134Tres Chapas Derecha6b+ **10
135Provata4 16
136Cursillo4 17
137Ingenieros4 14
138Doctor Flemig5 *15
139Neuvo5 *** 
140La baldomera del quinto4+ *16
141Pedro el molisero5+ **19
 CALLOSA - LA CANTERA  
143La Cantera5+ ***13
144Sali6a ** 
145IX Capítulos6a ** 
146Trompases5+ *1
Access notes
The cliffs are aligned to the north of the N340 and the CV900 which are easily reached from the A7 motorway. The Orihuela junction is just over 40km south of Alicante airport. Approaches for each cliff are covered in the relevant sections of the guide; check the maps on the appropriate pages. Approach walks vary between 5 and 20 minutes.

Classifieds
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Redovan- La Pancha has lots more routes than in the new 2013 rockfax. Both single pitch and multi-pitch. There was new more new routing going on the day we were there 01-03-13. The routes almost all have plates at the bottom with pitch names and grades.
brianrunner - 03/Mar/13

A local climber told us that Pared Negro is now open (its down as closed til the end of 2013 in the new rockfax). The closed sign on page 75 of rockfax isn't there now so we climbed on the crag.
brianrunner - 03/Mar/13

Orihuela is in Alicante province not Murcia. The Redovan and Orihuela crags are quite separate climbing areas and lumping them together is confusing and not very helpful.
Pencarth - 04/Jan/12

The National Park where the crags are located is closed 24/25th Dec and 1/2nd Jan. Although the gates are locked and there are closed signs up it's easy enough to get through, the local gentleman we spoke to didn't seem to think there was a problem with entering on foot even though the park was technically closed.
magpie - 03/Jan/09