Altitude 664m a.s.l
Soloing Johnny, Marin © Chris the Tall
To the northwest of the double-town of Elda/Petrer is a prominent cream-coloured dome of rock where a slabby crag sits on the crest of the hill. Developed in the 1960's then rebolted in 1992, this is not a cliff for the hard-core but climbers who operate up to 6a and 6b should find a visit here very rewarding.
The central section of the cliff is home to 20 pleasant low-grade climbs, up to 60m high, very well bolted, generally slabby and with some multi-pitch options. Many of the climbs have their names and approximate grades painted at their foot in large ugly writing. Five minutes walk further west is an excellent steeper crag which has a great set of slightly harder routes. There are also a few other routes dotted around on several smaller sectors that have good climbing and will usually be quieter.
The crag is southeast-facing and rapid-drying, though high enough to be exposed to the wind.
Take the A31 Madrid road northwest from Alicante for 32km to Elda/Petrer, pass the castle and then continue past the right turn at the sign 'Centro Commercial' (used on the approach to Penyal del Corb and Foradà). 800m after a petrol station, take the slip-road off to the right signed 'Elda' and 'Hospital' then loop back over the motorway and head back towards Elda. Go around a long right-hand bend to a roundabout (keep with the signs to Sax) and, after 1km, turn right at T-junction (signed 'Sax') and drive over a col. The road descends under power-lines, on a long right-hand bend; turn left immediately left of gates set under an orange tiled-roof ('La Curva') and follow the track for 1.3km. Turn left through some grey concrete gate posts with old rusty iron gates and park on the right after 1km at a large car park with information board on top of the hill. A track starts opposite the northern end of the car park and heads steeply to a col overlooking Elda, between the two main buttresses. The rocks are reached in less then ten minutes.
|Parking for a few cars at first corner is still available, from here walk up path as described in rockfax which will bring you past Sector Senda and onwards to the main face.
More parking is available further up the road where a path will lead you through to the area described as far left in Rockfax, alternatively there are three newer sectors on the same side as viewed from the parking area which give some welcome morning shade.|
fatbuoybazza - 11/Apr/11