Climbs 116
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 664m a.s.l
Faces SE

Soloing Johnny, Marin © Chris the Tall

Crag features

To the northwest of the double-town of Elda/Petrer is a prominent cream-coloured dome of rock where a slabby crag sits on the crest of the hill. Developed in the 1960's then rebolted in 1992, this is not a cliff for the hard-core but climbers who operate up to 6a and 6b should find a visit here very rewarding. 

The central section of the cliff is home to 20 pleasant low-grade climbs, up to 60m high, very well bolted, generally slabby and with some multi-pitch options. Many of the climbs have their names and approximate grades painted at their foot in large ugly writing. Five minutes walk further west is an excellent steeper crag which has a great set of slightly harder routes. There are also a few other routes dotted around on several smaller sectors that have good climbing and will usually be quieter.

The crag is southeast-facing and rapid-drying, though high enough to be exposed to the wind.

Approach notes

Take the A31 Madrid road northwest from Alicante for 32km to Elda/Petrer, pass the castle and then continue past the right turn at the sign 'Centro Commercial' (used on the approach to Penyal del Corb and Foradà). 800m after a petrol station, take the slip-road off to the right signed 'Elda' and 'Hospital' then loop back over the motorway and head back towards Elda. Go around a long right-hand bend to a roundabout (keep with the signs to Sax) and, after 1km, turn right at T-junction (signed 'Sax') and drive over a col. The road descends under power-lines, on a long right-hand bend; turn left immediately left of gates set under an orange tiled-roof ('La Curva') and follow the track for 1.3km. Turn left through some grey concrete gate posts with old rusty iron gates and park on the right after 1km at a large car park with information board on top of the hill. A track starts opposite the northern end of the car park and heads steeply to a col overlooking Elda, between the two main buttresses. The rocks are reached in less then ten minutes.


Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014)

Out of print:
Parking for a few cars at first corner is still available, from here walk up path as described in rockfax which will bring you past Sector Senda and onwards to the main face. More parking is available further up the road where a path will lead you through to the area described as far left in Rockfax, alternatively there are three newer sectors on the same side as viewed from the parking area which give some welcome morning shade.
fatbuoybazza - 11/Apr/11
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Climbs at this crag

42No me jodas el grado, Nano5c 15
43La Marrana5a 16
44Wini Wini5c *14
45No me toques el Chouchou6a *10
46Ester Sabadell
6a+ **6
47El Mojino5c *10
48Huevecillos colgandillos6a+ *11
49Machito Machoman6a *12
50Conginipollas6b 8
51Esto es lo que quieres esto es lo que tiennes6c 3
52Super Freire5c **14
53Super Angel5c *3
54La mala Vida5c *1
 Sector Clásico 
56Aniversario5c ***16
57Jhony4a ***300
58Cuatro latas5c *39
59Anibal6a 32
60Con dos pelotas6b+ *2
61Fuerza bruta6c 8
62El Nombre de los malditos de Satán6b+ 5
63Petreles5a ***124
64Mermelada del futuro6a 37
65Placa gris5c ***104
66Prats4c ***204
67Súbete con la cuchara6b *18
68Kiki5c **52
69Carmela4a 17
70Maika4c **107
71Paquita trueno5a *34
72Dalia5a **43
73Agust4c **127
74Jake mate5c ***87
75Puente aereo5a **64
76Manolito5a **40
77Capicua4c **71
 Sector Senda 
79Matarile6b 5
80Chicho5a *19
81Lemonchelo5c *13
82Todo es empezar5a 9
83El dia que me case6a 15
84Tres amigos y una cuerda6a+ *8
85Prueba y te gustara6a+ *7
86Sacjustu6a *8
87Quinto5c 4
88Salma5a *8
89Paleta5a *5
90Picoleta5c 5
91Villa latas6b  
92Rijapi6a+ 2
93Via vendeta6a 2
 Sector Juegos de verano 
95Elemento V
96El 80%
97E. concentrado
98Mondo diagonal
99Un día con Alain
100Tu que opinas
103Tres pelos
104Súper cazos
 Sector Espolon Noroeste 
106En Singular
5c 3
107Muy frágil
5a 3
108Mi mejor amigo y yo
4a 1
109Gravedad 0
4a 1
6a 2
111Héroes de la ciudad
112La Chorrera
114Puedes o te ayudo
6a+ 1
 Sector Mini Noroeste 
118Desorientativo "Sies a mas"
120Aprietas que te petas
121Hermano inhumano
122A vista de pajaro

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