Climbs 82
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 711m a.s.l
Faces all

Rik on Mata-Hari © Charlie M

Crag features

Salinas is a pleasant crag in a peaceful situation. The routes are well-equipped and have a good spread of grades. It is worth noting that many of the harder routes are a bit hacked about and there is a seasonal bird-ban which can interfere with your plans if you are here in the spring. Despite this, the routes are mostly sustained and superb, following steep pockets and thin vertical walls. It shouldn't just be considered a crag for the hard climber as there is a decent selection of fine easier climbs on Sector Picara Viborita and on the edges of the higher sectors. The locals know the cliff as Alto Don Pedro after the hill behind it.

The crag is basically a ridge with routes on both faces. The crag faces east making it a good morning venue in the winter and a useful shady afternoon retreat in the summer. It is not too exposed and can be considered an all year round crag except perhaps on the coldest of days, or when it is windy.

Approach notes

The crag is situated near the town of the same name which is 8km west of Sax and is best approached from there. Drive from Alicante towards Madrid on the A31 (a free dual carriageway). Turn off at Sax and drive into the town. At the first roundabout turn left, signed 'Salinas'. Follow this for about 8km to the small village of Salinas and drive straight through it. After a roundabout leave the town towards 'Monovar' and continue for 1.5km and turn right (signed 'Finca Castillejos'). At this point the ridge of the crag can be seen ahead on the left. Ignore the first dirt track on the left and on the next right-hand bend continue straight onto a wide dirt track. Turn left off this onto another dirt track and follow it towards the crag past two sets of buildings. Keep left at the first branch and right at the second. Park at a clearing on the right or press on to a higher parking area - steep and often hard going. Continue walking up the track to find a path on a bend. This leads straight to Sector Picara Viborita. It is also possible to park just past the second building and be faced with a slightly longer walk.


Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014)

Out of print:
Beware of the approach description given in Rockfax - it appears to be out of date. There is a roundabout as you leave the town - bear leftish. The turn off from the main road is signposted 'Los Fontaros'. Follow the description past the houses, but at the fork (100yds past the houses bear right - not left. Or leave you car there - the oil trail on the track indicates that someone did some damage to their undercarriage !
Chris the Tall - 07/Feb/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Sector Final 
2Manzanita verde6b+ **3
3Terranova6c *2
4Serrano - Magui I6b+ * 
5Crucifixión7c ** 
6Ahí va la liebre7c ** 
7Danza interrumpida7c **2
8Mata-Hari7a+ ***14
9Metamorfosis7c ** 
10Línea maestra7b+ **1
12Donde dices que vas6a+ **6
13La silla de la Reina6b **9
 Sector La Higuera 
16Lloviendo sale corriendo6a 1
17Pequeña y juguetona6c+ *2
18Babieca7b ***6
19El gran cañón7b+ ** 
20Reina de corazones8a * 
22Puerco espín7b+ ** 
23Papá ven en tren7a+ *4
24Hay canto7b+ *2
25Directisima6b+ **8
26Roca loca6a *2
27Saltimbanqui6a *4
28Pepito conejo5a *3
 Sector Espolón Mágico 
30Fisura mágico6a+ 1
31Placa mágico6b+ 1
32Espolón mágico6b * 
33Los dedos del mono7a+ * 
34Marca pasos7a+ ***5
35Agárrate donde puedas7b * 
36Bozal de esparadrapo7c * 
377b el plumero7a * 
40Avoriaz en pelotas me verás5c 1
 Sector Picara Viborita 
42Dartacán6c 1
43Atos5a 15
44Portos5a 19
45Aramis5a 21
46No te lo pongas4c *18
47Pónselo6a **25
48Póntelo5c *9
49Jarpichuela6a *18
50Pero yeyo5a **35
51Amonite5c *15
52Sancho Panza6a *19
53Ali Baba y los 406b **12
54El canto de la abubilla6b+ *2
55Lolitus7a *1
56Me estoy multiplicando6b *12
57Tatanka6c *2
58Así habelo Pepetrusta5c *25
59Andrea6b+ *2
60Flash Bea6b+ *1
61Bocadillos de micros6b *10
62Lenin6c ***33
63Cernicalus7a 2
64Cefalimpadus6b ***49
65El abominable6b *8
66Machu que pichu6b+ *6
67Le puerta de Anubis6a+ **43
68Sube golondrina6a *12
69Monoharpo7c * 
70Chirimoya7b+ ***3
71Alicantorroca7c+ * 
72Destroyer6c+ *8
 Sector Continuidad 
74Cho-oyu '936b+ 1
75Por Pelos8a  
76Totem7c+ * 
77La primera y la ultima6b+  
78Selva vertical6a+  
79Atácale6b * 
80Licor armago7a+  
81Tortura Contínua8a * 
82Roca de Pandora7b+  
83Impone el desplome7b * 

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