Climbs 64
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 679m a.s.l
Faces E

Silhouetted at Sax © Wangy

Crag features

WARNING: Rockfax has the first pitch lengths completely wrong. If doing just the first pitch then the stuff marked as '20m' actually needs a 70m rope to be safe; the stuff marked '30m' needs an 80m rope (or a 70m with a couple of meters downclimb).

West of the ancient town of Sax is a series of limestone towers overlooking the wide valley of the Vinalopo. The crags here have been known as Sax and Cabreras over the years and to confuse things even further it is also occasionally referred to by the name of the central showpiece tower known as Peñas del Rey. 

Most of the climbing is slabby, with the occasional bulging bit, and the grades range from quality fours and fives to technical sixes and a couple of top-notch sevens. Many of the pitches are long and there are some excellent two-pitch climbs here. Sax has been climbed on for many years, and consequently some of the routes are now polished. 

Away to the south west is Sector Cumbre which has long wall pitches mainly in the 6a to 6b+ range. Sadly this crag is bird-banned from December to June, has a long and steep approach walk and has never been popular. It is not covered in this book. 

The main areas face east which making it a good morning crag in winter and a good afternoon crag in summer. The exposed position on the hillside means that it catches the wind although it is usually possible to still find some shelter on the Peñas del Rey.

Approach notes

Drive from Alicante towards Madrid on the A31 and take the second turn off to Sax (junction 44). Drive towards the town, cross the river then turn right and follow the road as it loops round the town passing below the castle walls. Follow signs for 'La Plano' as they head out of town for 1.1km then fork left - still on tarmac. After around 1.5km cross the high-speed rail-link. Turn sharp left onto a track after crossing the railway. Follow this next to the railway for 200m, then turn left towards the Penas del Rey, which is now clearly visible on the hillside. Turn right (sandy) to reach a parking spot directly below the crag.


Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014)

Out of print:
The heights shown for the belays are a few metres higher than shown. Please be aware and take at least a 70m rope if you want to lower off from first belays.
Andy Chambers - 24/May/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Sector Cumbre 
2Moreno machacón7b+  
3Rompe bragas6a+  
4Polla asesina6c  
5Homicidio frustrado6c+ * 
6Asesinato premeditado6b+ * 
7Ingreso cadáver6b+ * 
8Pincha pansida6a * 
9Gorilero6a * 
10Tauro6a * 
11Tubular Bells6b+ ** 
12Zombis6b * 
13Fiesta salvaje6b+ ** 
14Busque y compare6a+ ** 
15De película6b+ ** 
16Toreros muertos6b+ * 
17Demonio con faldas7a * 
18Lucecitas de colores6a+ ** 
19Jabato con pie de gato6a+ * 
20Gringo6a+ *1
21Civera5c **1
22Sensaciones azuladas6a+ *1
 Peñas del Rey 
24Alnara6a+ *12
25Doce metros por hora6b *9
26Blanes4c ***78
27La última pupilla6c **2
28Caballo Loco6c **6
29Taberna de Buda6a+ ** 
30Anduriña6a **17
31Kabronkon6b **21
32Pedra del Sol6b ** 
33Liga Humana6a+ **9
34Tupungato5c ***66
35Muerte Sabrosa6b **5
36Amor Brujo6a+ ***10
37Super Directa6a ***34
38Directísima6a **14
39La Moixeranga6b **2
40Central5c **18
41Límites Realidad6a **4
42Diedro Dinamita6a * 
43Polvos Mágicos6a ***2
44Hollywood6b * 
45Navarro 16a * 
46Navarro 1 Variante6b * 
47Chimenea Groen 705c * 
48Quirofano de la muerte7a+ *** 
49Elena de Pablos7a+ ***4
50Chinche6b **2
51Espolón Luis Rico6a *2
52Glóbulos rojos6c  
56Con cuarto basta6a+  
57Carrasco5a **18
58Andrés5c *2
59Elisa-Beltrán4a **23
 Pinnacle and North 
61Sombra del pájaro6a+  
62Carrozas Climb7b  
63Aspirante carroza6a * 
64Marco Antonio5a 2
66Super miembro6c+  

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