What now..? © Catherine Speakman
Peña Rubia has been quite popular in the past and it does have some good climbing though a reputation for harsh grades and polished routes hasn't done the place any favours. Its main claim to fame is the nearby Boreal factory and the fact that many famous climbers have tested their sponsored boots on these walls. There is a full grade range from 4s to 8s. Most of the harder routes only have short technical sections on steep bulges often using chipped pockets. The easier routes are some of the more interesting offerings here. The whole crag is fully equipped. Some of the routes have two pitches but in most cases you can run them together with a 60m rope.
The crag faces northwest which means that it only gets the afternoon sun. It is relatively sheltered from the wind and makes a good morning venue in hot weather. Like most of the cliffs hereabouts it is far too hot in the summer months. Its accessibility means this is a reasonable airport-day crag providing you can leave a sunbathing team to look after the car and the luggage.
Take the A31 Madrid road northwest from Alicante. Turn off at the junction signed to 'Villena' and 'Biar'. Almost immediately turn right off the slip road (unsigned). Follow this for 4.8km to an impressive entrance archway and tack up to the top left-hand corner of the road system. A short sandy track leads up to the crag. Don't leave any valuables in your car.
Sector Competición - From the slip road turning, continue for 2.9km to a right turn down a smaller road. Take this for 1.7km to a crossroads. A left turn here runs towards the crag, turning to dirt after 900m. Continue for a further 360m (steeper now) to parking on the right in a large flat area.
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