Climbs 182
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 955m a.s.l
Faces all

Shauna Coxsey On Sighting Muscleman F7b - 2009 © Gaz Parry

Crag features

A remote and varied crag with some magnificent climbing on either side of a dinosaur-back fin of rock. Pride of place has to be Sector Super Heroes; a steep shady wall of soaring, overhanging walls and pocket-lines and a must for people into steep grade 7s and 8s. The rest of the shady north-facing side is less imposing but still offers some quality challenges in the mid-grades. For easier stuff you need to head round to the slabby southern side; a totally different proposition with routes at a much friendlier angle and in a beautiful sunny setting, with magnificent views. The majority of the climbs are well bolted. A 70m rope is useful for Sectors Super Heroes and Elecciones.

Apart from the soaring overhanging pocket-lines the other major attraction of this crag is its usefulness in extreme weather. Foradà North Face is a great place to head for if it is really hot and it also has plenty to go at in wet weather, but it can be very cold compared to other crags in the area because of the altitude, at almost 1000m. In cold weather clever climbers will head straight for the South Face so that while the hard team are freezing in search of a big tick on the North Face, the less ambitious members of the team can sun themselves just round the corner.

Approach notes

Take the A-31 towards Madrid as far as the junction to 'Petrer, Elda, centro commercial' - large Carrefour supermarket. At this slightly complex junction on the slip road, turn back right following signs for 'Xorret de Cati' - a rather fine hotel up in the mountains. Follow the road and signs for around 10km to an unsigned junction on the right where there is a clear view of the crag over to the south. Turn down here (still surfaced) to a right turn onto an unsurfaced road by a small stone gate post. (This track can be very hard going after rain). Follow the track to a sharp turn left where there is parking for a chapel, hidden in the trees up ahead. Continue to car parking at a col from where the crag is clearly visible. To get to the North Face and Villanos, the easiest way is to take the footpath branching right off the main approach track at the car park (marked by a Xorret del Cati “climbing this way” sign). This can be followed past Sector Villanos to a flat open area where the path splits. To get to the South Face, continue on the main track as it drops down underneath the fin. See buttresses for approach from here.


Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
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It is noted in the guidebook that access down the unpaved track may be "difficult" after heavy rain. I would update this to: "After even relatively small amounts of rain, the unpaved track is likely to be essentially unpassable for anything other than tractors and/or high ground clearance 4x4s." We were there after a couple of days of fairly heavy rain and even the high ground clearance 4x4's had abandoned the attempt on the track and parked 1.5km from the crag and walked the rest.
John_Hat - 09/Mar/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Sector Parking 
2Aqui Estoy6a 4
3Sin Piedad6a+ 4
 Sector Villanos 
5Cabrales6a+ 9
6Jalapeños6c+ 12
7Joker7a+ *15
8Pancho Villa7a+ 1
9Doctor No7a *8
10Lutor6c+ 6
11Esquelotor6c+ *10
12Phantomas7a+ 6
13Barrabás6c *2
 Sector Comic 
15El pequeño Franenstein6c 3
16Mundo Mutante6c+ **8
17Pedrusco6b+ **14
18Litel Pony Manconi6c+ * 
19Sara6c **10
20Torpedo6b+ *5
21El Mercenario6c+ *3
22Legionario6c *7
23Comic5c *18
24La Danza El Cul5a *3
25Sin Chan5a *3
26Patxi Cena Arroz6b+ *4
 Sector Pajaritos 
5a *12
5c *17
30Route 11
6a+ 15
32Una Cerveza en el Túnel6a+ * 
33Gorrión6a+ *41
34Picacerebros6a *10
35Golondrinas6a+ *39
36Radio Macuto7a+ * 
37Cucú6a+ *38
38El alimana6b+ * 
39Periquito5a 28
 Sector Super Heroes 
41Pajarraco Half6c *4
42Pajarraco7c *** 
43Escalibur8a+ **1
44Tundra8a+ ***2
45Lanzarote o burro grande8a+ **7
46Batman7b+ ***19
47Muscleman7b ***75
48Satori8b ** 
49Rock'n Roll Exprés8a * 
50Jo-ta-Ke8b+ *** 
51Radicales libres8a+ ***1
52Thorpedo7b **2
53Thor7b+ ***27
54Plasticman8a+ * 
55Doctor Bacterio7c+ * 
57Elios7a+ ***46
58Guerrero del antifaz7b+ ***4
59Enclenque Misantropic7c ** 
60Helioscentrisimo7c+ ** 
61Spiderman7a ***77
62Starman7a ***117
63Son Goku7a *21
64Espolon Rumano7c *1
65A King Kong Jalameel Cous Cous7b **1
66Superlópez7b+ ** 
 Sector Elecciones 
68Baby boom8b ***1
69Bombe bombero8a+ **1
70Apatrida7b+ ** 
71Los patos de la Moncloa7b+ **5
72Cámara Alta6c+ **23
73Kuka7b+ * 
74Ratonovich6c+ *5
75Disturbio vertical6c ***67
76El golfo de la guerra6b+ *48
77El hereje7c * 
78La guerra del golfo6b+ *17
79La guerra del golfo Extension?  
80Noelix i Obelix6b+ *5
81Abstención6c *7
82La fuerza del parábola6a *45
83Eliconnes Fifteen? ***1
84Pepa Rota7b+ **1
85Galimatías6c+ ***20
86Pictolin6a 10
87Sugus6a+ 8
 Sector Television 
89Bola de Cristal7a 4
90Rollito de Primavera8a 2
91La calle de ritmo6c+ * 
92Waku-Waku6c *2
93Sesión de tarde6c *1
95Papapatras7c+ 1
96El último mohicano7c 1
97Quieres que el tigre7b+ **1
98Bum-Bum7a+ **4
99Tiger Mountain7b **2
100Recién venido6b+ 5
101El precio justo7a *1
102Carta de adujiste7a *1
 Sector Psiquiatrico 
104Carne de psiquatrico7a *5
105Bloqueo mental7b * 
 Sector Minipimer 
107Termomix7b * 
108Picadora Mulinex7a+ *1
109Minipimer7a+ *6
 Sector Cuentos Populares 
111Tres cerditos6c * 
112Cuentos populares7a * 
115Juan Sin Miedo7a  
116Las botas de 7 leguas6c+ * 
 Sector Mitològic 
119Laguna Estigia7a *2
120Unicornio6c * 
121Eolo6b+ * 
122Odisea6c * 
123Odisea Direct6c  
 Sectors Petorri and Descote 
126Petorri3+ 45
127Bon día5a *68
128Cursilanía4a *81
129Como Te dé la Gana4a 63
130Fama de gos5c **63
131Pilar5a **107
132Noche golfa6a *40
133Paula5c *44
134Tiburón5c *28
135Placido Domingo6a **42
136Jodido Lunes6a *32
137De Los Cuatro4a *63
138De Joan3 34
139Caballería4c *9
140Marisol6a *28
141Freire sin aceite6a+ **31
142Entrepiernas6b *23
143Mujer furtivo6a+ *30
144Las escaletas fuman petas5c *23
145Chimo6a * 
147Cosme5c *11
 Sectors Forat and Goteta 
149Fret fa6b *1
150La golondrina6a+ *23
151Mama Ukri6b **34
152Chorro sin agua6a **39
153Sube que es gratis6a+ *23
154Hector7b **3
155Del Forat5c *21
156L'hivernacle7a **2
157Javier Muñoz6a+ *20
158Cruz del sur7a *1
159La Plutga5c **55
160Extrema Eskerra6b *3
161L'Embolic6a+ * 
163Mayaya5c *12
164Llei dels Maleans6a *42
165McFly5c **36
166Panchuflas5c **24
167Corpus Cristina5c **48
168Ligero de Equipaje5c 3

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