Climbs 63
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 778m a.s.l
Faces SW

Robbie Phillips on the crux of Clemencia (F8b), Sector Deportivo, Cabezon D'Oro #2 © Stuart S

Crag features

Travelling north from Alicante along the motorway, the first mountain of any significance is the broad hump of the Cabezon de Oro (1209m) away on the left-hand side. The mountain is most famous for the show caves of the Cuevas de Canalobre and, although the seaward side of the hill looks tame, the western face features some extensive sheets of high quality rock. Accurate information has always been a bit tricky to get hold off although the locals have been exploring these hills for years. The ridge has three main areas of interest to climbers; on the left is the rocky ridge of the Pared de los Alcoyanos with its huge south west face, whilst the right is the twin-peaked top of the Peña de Alicante. This has an imposing west-facing wall with a collection of very impressive sport routes, and beyond this, the fine buttress of Espolón Paiju rising to the right-hand summit. Another developed wall in this area is the hard sport climbing venue of Rincon de Bella - this isn't covered here.

The cliffs face generally west and are exposed to the weather. They provide morning shade in hot weather and afternoon sun when its cooler. Sector Deportivo faces more north west and is in the shade until mid-afternoon. Although steep, it is likely to run with water in the rain although you may be able to get something done.

Approach notes

Leave the AP-7 at Junction 681 to the CV-800. Follow this for around 1km then turn off towards 'Busot' and join the CV-773. At a roundabout before the town of Busot, pick up signs to the 'Cuevas de Cantobre' and follow these to a wide parking bay on a bend. Park here - it is possible to drive further along, but parking is awkward.

Peña de Alicant and Sector Deportivo - walk along the track for around 300m to a path on the right (cairn). Follow this up the stream-bed to reach the climbing - turn left for Deportiva, and right for Alicant at a junction.

Alcoyanos - continue along the track for around 1.4km to a small house (with big dogs) on the left. The path to the cliff starts opposite and zig-zags up to arrive just to the right of where 'VIA GENE' is scratched on the rock. 


Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Pared de los Alcoyanos 
3Frits Ulrich6b  
5Horrible Superior7b  
7Zarabanda6c+ **3
8Vía Gene4c **32
9El Don de Volar6c+ * 
10Cocoliso6a 1
11Rafa Gutierrez5c 1
13Hombres de Acero
14Patricia Ritmica7a 1
16Torreon de le Mina5a 1
17Libro de Eibon6a **1
18Diedre del Pou6a 1
19Delicatesen6b+ ***5
20Delicatessen P1
6b ***1
21El Cabeca5a 1
22Via Navarro-Giner/Sin Datos5c  
24La Sombra del Sol6b  
25Directa Agullo/Pomares5c  
 Sector Deportivo 
28Rocinante7c *** 
29Superrocinante8b *** 
30Sensación de pinzar7c ***5
31Supersensación de pinzar8a ***1
32Aromas del Cabezón8b ** 
33Inima8a * 
3427 primaveras8a ** 
35Terra7c+ ** 
36Ávalon7c+ **1
37Danza Mora8a * 
38Clemencia8b *** 
40Columneta8a ***3
41Pasión8a+ *** 
42Hechicera7b * 
43Dragoste7a+ ***18
44Pitulicha6c+ ***15
45Pitulichon7c+ ** 
46Jury7b **2
47Usoara6b+ ***17
48Foarte Usoara7a ***18
49Fiager7a+ *3
50Fiager Extension8a+ * 
51Trío de ases7c+ ** 
 Peña de Alicante 
54Alicia en el Pais de Vertical7b+  
56Univesitat D'Alicant6a  
58Arista Agullo4a  
60Espolón Paiju5c *7
64Sr. J.R.6a+  
65Diedro Petit4c  
66Bong Bong *F5 ** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83